Southern California’s luxury real estate market never sleeps. But this past year, it collectively caught its breath.
Luxury sales slowed down in 2023 — a combination of soaring interest rates, a newly introduced “mansion tax” and an inevitable drop-off from a pandemic market when megamansions flipped like hotcakes.
In 2022, there were 17 home sales above $50 million and 48 over $30 million in L.A. County, according to the Multiple Listing Service. In 2023, there were only five sales over $50 million and 23 over $30 million.
Advertisement
But even in a down year, there were still plenty of headlines. Jay-Z and Beyoncé set the all-time price record in the state of California, while other celebrities sold homes and left L.A. just in time to avoid paying taxes under Measure ULA.
Here are the top sales of the year.
$200 million
History was made in May when Jay-Z and Beyoncé shattered California’s price record, paying $200 million for a concrete compound in Malibu.
The L-shaped house, which topped the previous record of $177 million, looks more like an airplane hangar or supervillain’s lair than a home. It was built by Tadao Ando, a decorated Japanese architect who also designed a home for Kanye West a few miles down the coast. Ando brought in 7,645 cubic yards of concrete to erect the 40,000-square-foot home.
It never officially hit the market, so photos are scarce. The property is perched above Malibu’s Paradise Cove and features concrete hallways and walls of glass that open to a swimming pool and lawn overlooking the ocean.
$60.85 million
Another power couple — Jennifer Lopez and Ben Affleck — claimed the second-highest home purchase of the year when they shelled out $60.85 million for a five-acre spread in Beverly Crest. High interest rates weren’t a problem; they didn’t need a 30-year-fixed. The pair paid in cash.
Advertisement
The deal marked the end of a year-long house hunt for Lopez and Affleck, and the house boasts an array of amenities that few other mega-mansions can match. Across 38,000 square feet are 12 bedrooms, 24 bathrooms, 15 fireplaces, a movie theater, wine cellar, nail salon and sauna, as well as a 5,000-square-foot sports facility with a boxing ring and pickleball court.
The $60.85-million sale actually came at a discount; the home originally hit the market with a gargantuan price tag of $135 million.
$55 million
Some scratched their heads when Mark Wahlberg unloaded his Beverly Park mega-mansion for $55 million in February. The movie star spent years designing the French-inspired palace, and he originally asked $87.5 million when he first listed it in 2022.
But Wahlberg was a motivated seller. He moved to Nevada last year, and by selling the home in February, he avoided Measure ULA, a transfer tax that took effect April 1 and would’ve charged a 5.5% tax on the sale. At $55 million, Wahlberg’s tax bill would’ve been more than $3 million.
The European-inspired showplace is truly one of a kind, featuring amenities such as a five-hole golf course, driving range, grotto-style swimming pool and skate park. Wahlberg, a native of Massachusetts, also added a Boston Celtics-themed basketball court during his stay.
$52.056 million
Malibu’s second entry on this list comes via attorney Stuart Liner and his wife, Stephanie Hershey Liner, who sold their beach house on Point Dume for just over $52 million.
The Liners have made a fortune flipping houses over the years, including doubling their money on a house they bought from actor Danny DeVito. They scored a hefty profit here as well; records show they paid $21.758 million for the oceanfront home in 2020 before extensively remodeling the place.
The 6,000-square-foot house comes with a swimming pool and tennis court. It sold to Tom van Loben Sels, a partner at Bay Area tax firm Apercen Partners.
$52 million
For years, Villa Firenze was a cautionary tale, an extravagant reminder that while fortunes can be won in Southern California’s lucrative real estate market, you have to be strategic in how you sell to truly cash in.
Hungarian billionaire Steven Udvar-Hazy was not. The airplane mogul built the Italian-inspired mansion in 1998 and listed it for $165 million in 2017, which at the time was one of the most ambitious asking prices in California history.
Clearly overpriced, the house sat on the market for years until it was auctioned off for $51 million in 2021 to biotech entrepreneur Roy Eddleman, who, for some reason, tried the same thing as Udvar-Hazy.
Eddleman quickly attempted to flip the house for a massive profit, putting it back onto the market for $120 million just a year after he bought it. Unsurprisingly, there were no takers, and he died before it sold.
His estate slashed the price on the luxurious villa, which features 40-foot palm trees, 20-foot ceilings and a two-story library complete with a secret passageway that leads to a bedroom and bar.
After a year of price cuts, it finally sold in February for $52 million, just $1 million more than Eddleman paid for it at auction two years prior.
The surge in inflation may have slowed, but the cost of everyday items is still high enough to put a strain on your travel budget. If winter already has you dreaming of a luxury beach vacation, it’s worth finding a destination where the U.S. dollar delivers more bang for your buck. Fortunately, there are several options around the world where five-star accommodations are surprisingly affordable, even without using travel rewards.
Travel search engines Skyscanner and Kayak both analyzed data on their platforms to rank the cities where you can book the cheapest five-star hotels. How cheap are we talking? All of the cities in this combined list feature five-star hotels for less than $200 per night.
Skyscanner looked at the average price per night for a five-star hotel room booked on its portal from January through June 2023. Kayak looked at average prices based on searches conducted across all its portfolio domains from July 2022 through June 2023 for travel from November 2022 through October 2023.
Here are the top five cities to consider for your next luxury getaway.
1. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
The Malaysian capital topped Skyscanner’s list at $102 a night for five-star accommodation and came in second on Kayak’s list at $175 a night. Five-star hotels in the city include chains such as Hyatt and Hilton, as well as high-end properties such as the St. Regis and Banyan Tree.
Known for its delicious cuisine, cultural attractions, street food markets, shopping, nightlife, skyscrapers and theme parks, Kuala Lumpur offers a mix of luxury and budget-friendly activities for all travelers.
2. Hoi An, Vietnam
This ancient port city on Vietnam’s central coast offers five-star luxury for $117 per night, according to Skyscanner data. Boutique luxury hotels include Little Riverside, Anantara and Amina Lantana.
Because of its trading history, Hoi An has a unique blend of Japanese, Chinese and European influences. At this offbeat Vietnam destination, you can enjoy everything from beautiful architecture in the Old Town neighborhood to seventh-century temples, farm-fresh cuisine, lush countryside and pristine beaches.
3. Tirana, Albania
The Albanian capital comes in third on Skyscanner’s list, with five-star accommodations available for $140 per night. Although not as popular as its European neighbor Greece, Albania is slowly opening up to more tourism.
Tirana, the largest city, is a haven for art and history lovers, featuring a bustling town square, an underground Cold War bunker converted into an art museum, mosques, palaces and fortresses.
Although it has a few big hotel chains, including a Marriott and a Radisson, most of Tirana’s five-star hotels are lesser-known, such as the Xheko Imperial and Mak Albania.
4. Chiang Mai, Thailand
It’s no surprise that Thailand is a popular destination for travelers looking for both luxury and affordability. At $146 per night according to Skyscanner data, Chiang Mai boasts a large collection of five-star properties.
Marriott, InterContinental and Shangri-La are a few of the big hotel chains with locations in the northern Thai city. High-end boutique hotels include Chala Number 6, Cross Chiang Mai Riverside and Villa Mahabhirom.
The mountainous city of Chiang Mai offers a different landscape from Thailand’s famous beach destinations. Attractions include the country’s highest peak at Doi Inthanon National Park, Buddhist temples, botanical gardens and traditional villages against a backdrop of rice fields.
5. Hammamet, Tunisia
Kayak’s top affordable five-star destination is Hammamet, a beach town in the African country of Tunisia. A luxury stay here will set you back $151 a night, according to Skyscanner data.
Sheraton and Radisson Blu are two of the only chain hotels in this town. Luxury properties include The Sindbad, Medina Solaria & Thalasso, La Badira and Les Orangers.
Located about 40 miles from the capital of Tunis, Hammamet’s namesake beach features sparkling blue waters suitable for snorkeling and diving. History lovers can soak in cultural attractions from the ancient medina, a maze of alleyways bustling with shops and Islamic architecture, to fortresses and mosques. There’s even something for amusement park enthusiasts: Carthageland, a theme park inspired by the Carthage empire.
Other cities where you can find affordable luxury
Here are the other destinations that made it into Kayak’s top five:
Bogotá, Colombia: $192 per night.
Colombo, Sri Lanka: $210 per night.
Side, Turkey: $212 per night.
How to maximize your rewards
You want a travel credit card that prioritizes what’s important to you. Here are our picks for the best travel credit cards of 2024, including those best for:
In the world of retail and fashion, home was 2023’s biggest loser.
Apparel firms faced some stress too, but the category managed to avoid the bankruptcy boom that hammered the home sector. In the U.S., the year saw the bankruptcy filings of women’s lifestyle brand Soft Surroundings in September and the April Chapter 11 petition by David’s Bridal, marking its second brush with bankruptcy following its November 2018 filing. Footwear firm Rockport Co. filed on June 14 for its second tour of bankruptcy proceedings, while Shoe City’s parent company ESCO Ltd. filed earlier in the year. Overseas, there was also the Scotch and Soda bankruptcy in March in the Netherlands, followed one month later by the Dutch filing of fashion brand Sandwich.
And just this month, mall operator Pennsylvania Real Estate Investment Trust, better known as PREIT, found itself in bankruptcy proceedings for the second time in three years. The mall REIT expects to exit bankruptcy early next year, after which it will find itself under the ownership of its lenders.
Other retail bankruptcies include Party City, long a fixture on credit ratings watch lists, which filed in January. The party favor firm exited bankruptcy in October, but its bankruptcy also saw the closure of 35 big-box locations. And Christmas Tree Shops, once owned by Bed Bath & Beyond, ended up in bankruptcy court when its parent Handil Holdings filed for Chapter 11 protection in May. The company closed down operations in August, and shuttered 72 doors in the process.
But it’s been the troubled home furnishings category that has endured the most distress this year. That comes as little surprise, particularly after the home furnishings boom during COVID when people were sheltering in place. The return to offices, even in hybrid work environments, curtailed additional spending for refurbishing home workspaces. And the home sector was further hit by rising supply chain costs post-COVID, much of which was due to higher expenses connected to moving big pieces of furniture, both in imports and in shipments to customers.
Related Stories
Even credit experts foresaw trouble ahead in home. The home furnishings category carried the highest default risk across retail since 2021, according to data from S&P Global Market Intelligence.
And the firing salvo from Wells Fargo’s emergency motion on Dec. 30, 2022, that pushed United Furniture Industries (UFI) into an involuntary Chapter 7 after its shutdown one month earlier set the stage for the upheaval to come in 2023. UFI eventually filed a Chapter 11 petition on Jan. 6.
Home was also the big category loser due to the the mega filings of Bed, Bath & Beyond and Tuesday Morning, with the latter contributing to what seemed to be a trend in second filings, the so-called Chapter 22. Z Gallerie was the rare exception across retail sectors that landed in bankruptcy court for the third time on Oct. 16. It’s first filing was back in 2009.
There’s another reason why the home sector’s bankruptcies stood out this year. By the end of the first quarter of 2023, there were already nearly 2,000 announced store closures. That tally included 300 CVS doors and 545 Foot Locker Inc. stores by 2026, including 420 Foot Locker branded sites and 125 Champs Sports locations.
Moving to the end of 2023, total store closings are edging closer to 2,900 locations. The store closures in the home sector contributed a total of 1,228 closed retail doors in 2023. That’s over one-third of the total stores closed this year, with Bed Bath & Beyond contributing 896 to the home sector’s total.
Below is a summary of the top bankruptcies in the home sector in 2023.
Serta Simmons
Mattress maker Serta Simmons Bedding, owned by private equity firm Advent International, filed a Chapter 11 petition on Jan. 23. The filing included the company’s bed-in-a-box brand Tuft & Needle. The company owned more than $62 million to its top 10 unsecured creditors.
Serta Simmons said on June 29 that it completed its restructuring and had emerged from bankruptcy proceedings. “The Serta and Beautyrest brands in our portfolio have a deep heritage in innovation and have played meaningful roles in the lives of consumers for generations,” the company’s CEO Shelley Huff said. “With our financial restructuring behind us, we are taking steps to drive growth by getting back to our innovation roots, reinvesting in our iconic brands, and nailing the fundamentals of our business with a focus on commercial and supply chain excellence.”
During the bankruptcy process, the company reduced its funded debt to $315 million from $1.9 billion at the time of its filing. The $1.6 billion debt reduction lowered the company’s annual cash interest expense by more than $100 million.
Tuesday Morning
Tuesday Morning found itself bankrupt for the second time in three years. It filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection on Feb. 14, citing “exceedingly burdensome debt.” The off-price home retailer has since liquidated operations.
Tuesday Morning’s first petition was in May 2020, which saw it close 213 of its 700 stores. The retailer emerged from bankruptcy in January 2021 with 487 locations in operation. At the time of the second filing, the retailer said it planned to shutter 265 doors. This past May, the 49-year-old retailer decided to shut down operations and join the retail graveyard.
Bed Bath & Beyond
The long-awaited Bed Bath & Beyond bankruptcy finally occurred on April 23, eight months after speculation about its finances had suggested that a collapse was forthcoming.
One month before the bankruptcy, Bed Bath & Beyond closed 416 stores in the U.S., including some Buybuy Baby doors and it shut down its 45-store Harmon’s Beauty business. It also closed its Canadian stores, resulting in a loss of 1,400 retail jobs. When it shut down operations in June, the retail sector lost another 360 Bed Bath & Beyond stores and 120 Buybuy Baby locations.
The Bed Bath & Beyond intellectual property (IP) assets were sold to Overstock.com, best known for its liquidator origins selling excess or closeout inventory, for $21.5 million. Overstock in August rebranded itself as Bed Bath & Beyond. And the Buybuy Baby IP assets were sold to one of its suppliers, Dream on Me Industries Inc., for $15.5 million. Dream on Me subsequently acquired 11 of the Buybuy Baby store leases for $1.17 million, and reopened those locations on Nov. 18. The Harmon IP asset was acquired by investor Jonah Raskas for a reported $300,000. His initial plans are to open five Harmon locations, a CNBC story said.
The home goods chain had been struggling for years, but things started going downhill in a big way after it dismissed chief executive Mark Tritton and its merchandising leader in the wake of a first-quarter flop in 2022 when it burned through nearly $500 million in Q1 alone. It also spent $589 million on share buybacks instead of investing in turnaround strategies.
Its other problem was Tritton’s turnaround plan, which saw the retailer triple the number of private brands to lift opening price points and bring in more value products for a customer base that was on the hunt for deals on national brands. More bad news followed the troubled chain when its former chief financial officer, Gustavo Arnal, committed suicide in September 2022 after being named in a lawsuit alleging securities violations that included investor Ryan Cohen and his firm RC Ventures as defendants. Arnal has since been removed as a named defendant.
Altmeyer Home Stores
The 81-year-old family-owned regional home chain Altmeyer Home Stores filed for Chapter 7 liquidation in July.
The company operated 11 stores. It was headed by a fourth-generation Altmeyer at the time it filed its Chapter 11 petition.
The company sold primarily soft home linens in bedding, rugs, window treatments and kitchen accessories. But like many in the home sector, it also faced sourcing problems and a slew of online competitors.
Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams
August saw one of the biggest surprises of the year with the abrupt shutdown of upscale home lifestyle retailer Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams after its lender pulled the plug on financing, resulting in the closure of about 35 retail stores and outlets. The company filed its Chapter 11 petition in September, and went into liquidation mode after failing to find a buyer. In November, Surya, a Cartersville, Ga.-based home furnishings firm that specializes in rugs, textiles, lighting, furniture and decor, stepped up to acquire the Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams assets, including its IP and manufacturing facilities.
Surya, which brought on co-founder Mitchell Gold as an advisor, plans to restore the home lifestyle brand to its former glory. It plans to begin shipping the brand’s product line in the first quarter of 2024.
August also saw the closure of furniture firm Klaussner, better known as Klaussner Home Furnishings. And Solid Comfort, a Fargo, N.D.-based maker of casegoods for firms such as Marriott and Hilton in the hospitality industry, also shut down.
Z Gallerie
Upscale home decor retailer Z Gallerie landed back in bankruptcy court for the third time following a Chapter 11 filing by its parent company DirectBuy Home Improvement Inc. in October.
Z Gallerie was sold to DirectBuy, as affiliate of CSC Generation Holdings, during its second tour of bankruptcy proceedings in 2019. Its first petition was filed in 2009. The retailer started out as a picture framing and poster shop in 1979. During its heyday, it operated about 60 locations. At the time the business shut down for good, there were only 21 stores left in operation.
The entire state of South Carolina holds a prominent place in U.S. history. A prime location for battles during both the American Revolution and the Civil War, the entire state was practically torn down and rebuilt.
Today, with a thriving economy and plenty of opportunities in the tourism industry South Carolina combines its own style with plenty of luxury along the coast.
South Carolina average rent prices
With strong local economies throughout the state and a healthy combination of affordable and quality housing — living in South Carolina has plenty of upsides.
The average cost of a one-bedroom apartment in the state is $1,246; only up 0.2 percent over last year. This tiny increase keeps housing in even the cheapest places to live in South Carolina at an affordable rate aligned with the national average.
The cheapest cities in South Carolina for renters
Whether you’re looking to live in the Lowcountry and feast on the best food and freshest seafood or you are looking for a restful spot a little further north, South Carolina has it all at a reasonable price.
With plenty of southern hospitality and over 2,800 miles of coastline, living here can feel like you’re on a permanent vacation.
If it’s time to make the Palmetto State your new home but you’re worried about breaking the bank, start your search with the 10 cheapest places to live in South Carolina.
10. Beaufort
Average 1-BR rent price: $1,191
Average rent change in the past year: -0.14 percent
Located on Port Royal Island, right off the coast of South Carolina’s mainland, Beaufort stands out thanks to its architecture. Concentrated mostly in the historic downtown district, you’ll find beautiful antebellum mansions perfectly preserved.
This little harbor town offers up affordable housing for year-round residents, but Beaufort also draws in a healthy bunch of tourists thanks to its assortment of hotels, bed and breakfasts, restaurants and scenery.
You could easily plan a day that involved dolphin watching, a long walk on the beach, a museum and finally a delicious Lowcountry seafood dinner.
A popular destination for retirees to call home, the city’s proximity to Savannah, Charleston and Hilton Head make it a convenient place to live even if you commute into a larger city for work.
Find apartments for rent in Beaufort Buy a house in Beaufort
9. Greenville
Average 1-BR rent price: $1,166
Average rent change in the past year: 10.81 percent
For a home within South Carolina’s Upcountry, consider Greenville. Situated in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the city caters to all ages and walks of life. The downtown area features one-of-a-kind shops and boutiques alongside many art galleries and museums. There’s also no shortage of excellent outdoor activities to keep you busy.
The number of parks and green spaces, alongside the busy city center, gives Greenville an urban/suburban mix. You can spend one day sitting in a coffee shop or shopping until you drop, and the next at Falls Park on the Reedy with its 32 acres next to downtown.
Another perk of living in Greenville is its access to great weekend getaways. About an hour’s drive will get you to Great Smoky Mountains National Park. As part of the Appalachian Mountain range, this national park offers spectacular, tree-lined views, fresh air and a peaceful break from the daily grind.
Find apartments for rent in Greenville Buy a house in Greenville
8. Blythewood
Photo source: Blythewood Town Hall / Facebook
Average 1-BR rent price: $1,152
Average rent change in the past year: 14.17 percent
Close enough to earn the designation as a suburb of Columbia, the town of Blythewood has its own historic charm. Steeped in southern hospitality and tradition, you’ll experience a close and diverse community who come together to celebrate the city’s interests including agriculture, horses and the arts. Even baseball gets taken pretty seriously here, according to locals.
Its location also enables it to provide small-town living without the loss of access to a big city. As a result, Blythewood attracts a lot of families who find the local parks, library and seasonal farmer’s market are all great places to let the kids run free while connecting with the community.
Live music also plays a role in bringing the community together, and a few annual events invite the whole town out to enjoy the weather and each other. These include a yearly Beach Bash, an official 4th of July celebration, the IPRA championship rodeo and a butterfly festival.
Find apartments for rent in Blythewood Buy a house in Blythewood
7. Mauldin
Average 1-BR rent price: $1,126
Average rent change in the past year: 20.58 percent
Full of places to eat and places for families to play, you’ll find Mauldin nestled in the heart of upstate South Carolina. A safe and comfortable community, there are beautiful homes and well-maintained neighborhoods to pick from.
Its proximity to Greenville, only about 15 minutes away, means there are lots of opportunities to take advantage of larger city amenities without necessarily living in the city. You’ll also have access to more jobs with Greenville so close.
For those looking for some respite after a long week commuting — not five minutes away from Mauldin’s city center, you’ll find the Lake Conestee Nature Park. This 400-acre park is home to a variety of wildlife so get ready to spot deer, a raccoon or even a river otter when hiking.
Find apartments for rent in Mauldin Buy a house in Mauldin
6. Duncan
Photo source: Town of Duncan, SC / Facebook
Average 1-BR rent price: $1,032
Average rent change in the past year: 15.64 percent
A growing community, Duncan has that small-town feel but with easy access to other, more urban areas of the state. Attracting a younger crowd, as one of the cheapest places to live in South Carolina, the city really does have a lot to offer.
With a BMW manufacturing plant nearby, there are no shortages of jobs. Other key employers in Duncan within the area include Adidas, Chick-fil-A and Spartanburg Regional Healthcare System.
If you’re looking for outdoor fun — make sure to visit Shipwreck Cove. This pirate-themed water park lets you slide down spiraling water slides or float along a lazy river. There’s even a kiddie area for the little ones. It’s a little something special that goes beyond a casual hike or trip to a local playground.
Find apartments for rent in Duncan Buy a house in Duncan
5. Greer
Average 1-BR rent price: $1,017
Average rent change in the past year: 9.70 percent
Another spot within the picturesque foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Greer is one of the state’s fastest-growing cities. Natural beauty is everywhere you look — from the lakes to the mountains.
An exciting place to call home, most of the retail, dining, entertainment and professional services are within 12 square blocks in Greer’s Central Business District. You’ll also find plenty of community festivals throughout the year varying from live music in the park during the summer and Oktoberfest in the fall.
A few major employers call Greer home, helping provide plenty of job opportunities for locals. Here you’ll find the headquarters for Mitsubishi Polyester Film. You’re also not far from Michelin North America and the BMW manufacturing plant when you live here either.
Find apartments for rent in Greer Buy a house in Greer
4. Rock Hill
Average 1-BR rent price: $984
Average rent change in the past year: 7.68 percent
Only 20 minutes south of Charlotte in North Carolina, the South Carolina town of Rock Hill blends historic charm with modern development. Rated one of the best places to live in the state, you get a quiet place to call home with access to plenty of economic opportunity in the bigger city down the road.
Living here, your central landmark is the Civitas statues. The four, 22-foot-tall sculptures sit in front of City Hall and represent the key themes of Rock Hill — Gears of Industry, Flame of Knowledge, Stars of Inspiration and Lightning Bolt of Energy.
When not admiring the statues, the rest of the city turns its attention to industry, the outdoors and education. It’s home to Winthrop University and 31 parks. This includes Cherry Park with 68-acres of hiking trails, manicured gardens and a large playground.
Find apartments for rent in Rock Hill Buy a house in Rock Hill
3. Columbia
Average 1-BR rent price: $983
Average rent change in the past year: -6.93 percent
As the state capital, Columbia is a creative hub that combines old and new with nature, community and lots of shopping, eating and drinking. A true southern town, there are more than enough activities to pick from when planning out a day.
For a cultural experience, check out the Columbia Museum of Art with 26 different galleries containing treasures that date back up to 5,000 years.
When you need a dose of wildlife and plants, head to the Riverbanks Zoo and Garden. You’ll find nearly 2,000 animals from around the world and a 70-acre botanical garden.
To unwind, Riverfront Park is a great place to hike and bike. You can even get a little history lesson by exploring an old pump house from the Columbia Canal and Water Works.
If a more collegiate experience is on your mind, Columbia is home to the University of South Carolina, Columbia International University and a few other colleges.
Find apartments for rent in Columbia Buy a house in Columbia
2. Elgin
Average 1-BR rent price: $976
Average rent change in the past year: 12.86 percent
Another laid-back, suburban gem within the state, Elgin is one of the cheapest places to live in South Carolina.
The city’s claim to fame takes place on the first Saturday in December —this is the day of the annual Catfish Stomp, where you can try some of the best catfish ever while enjoying live music and a parade.
The rest of the year, there’s no shortage of fresh food, especially if you visit the Kershaw County Farmers Market. Everything from fruits and veggies to meat, eggs and baked goods go up for sale every Saturday morning.
With more of a rural feel, Elgin also boasts beautiful countryside and refreshing landscapes. Make sure to visit White Pond for some time in undisturbed nature.
Find apartments for rent in Elgin Buy a house in Elgin
1. Spartanburg
Average 1-BR rent price: $823
Average rent change in the past year: -5.38 percent
Topping our list of the cheapest places to live in South Carolina, Spartanburg is so much more than affordable housing and virtually no traffic. It’s a vibrant city, packed with all the amenities. Living here gives you easy access to the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains alongside plenty of art, culture, festivals and history.
Spend one day visiting the Cowpens National Battlefield, the next day shopping in locally-owned stores and the next fishing on Lake Bowen.
The city also has a huge cultural presence with a designed cultural district downtown. Here you can walk through blocks of art galleries and studios, music venues, breweries, coffee shops, museums and libraries. You can easily get your fill of the arts with just a day’s stroll.
Among the family-friendly fun, outdoor activities, lively nightlife and more, you’ll also find a decent number of college students. Spartanburg is home to seven colleges and universities — making academia a major economic driver for the city.
Find apartments for rent in Spartanburg Buy a house in Spartanburg
The most expensive places to live in South Carolina
It’s no surprise that the most expensive places to live in South Carolina are some of the state’s most well-known cities. Areas like Charleston and Mount Pleasant draw in large numbers of tourists each year, while other places on the list are popular suburbs. Check out where else in South Carolina may test your budget just a little when it comes to paying rent.
Methodology
Rent prices are based on a rolling weighted average from Apartment Guide and Rent.’s multifamily rental property inventory as of May 2021. Our team uses a weighted average formula that more accurately represents price availability for each unit type and reduces the influence of seasonality on rent prices in specific markets.
We excluded cities with insufficient inventory from this report.
The rent information included in this article is used for illustrative purposes only. The data contained herein do not constitute financial advice or a pricing guarantee for any apartment.
To the native Wintu people it was Bohem Puyuik, the “Big Rise,” and no wonder. Mt. Shasta towered above everything else, her loins delivering the natural springs and snowmelt that birthed a great river.
The Sacramento River provided such an abundance of food that the Wintu and many neighboring tribes — the Pit River, Yana, Nomlaki and others — had little to fight over. They thrived in pre-colonial times, on waters that ran silver with salmon, forests thick with game and oaks heavy with acorns.
But centuries of disease, virtual enslavement and murder wrought by European and American invaders scrambled the harmony that once reigned along the Upper Sacramento River.
Today, three tribes here are locked in a bloodless war. At issue is a proposal by one Indigenous group to expand and relocate its casino and whether the flashy new gambling hall, hotel and entertainment center would honor — or desecrate — the past.
The casino envisioned by the Redding Rancheria and its 422 members would rise nine stories on 232 acresalong Interstate 5. The rancheria — home to descendants from three historic tribes — began planning the development nearly two decades ago, envisioning a regional magnet for tourists and gamblers.
But the proposal has been buffeted by influential opponents, including the city of Redding, neighborhood groups and the billionaire next door — who happens to be the largest private landowner in America. The naysayers list a cavalcade of complaints against the new Win-River casino complex, saying it would despoil prime farmland, exacerbate traffic, increase police and fire protection costs and threaten native fish in the Sacramento River.
Those complaints have helped stall, but not kill, the project, whose fate rests almost solely in the hands of the Bureau of Indian Affairs in Washington, D.C. And now the BIA’s obscure bureaucrats have been confronted with an explosive new charge from two neighboring tribes: that construction of the casino would desecrate what the tribes say should be hallowed ground — the site of an 1846 rampage by the U.S. Cavalry that historians say probably killed hundreds of Native people.
The Sacramento River massacre has not received the attention of other atrocities of America’s westward expansion, such as the one in 1890 at Wounded Knee, S.D., where U.S. troops killed as many as 300 Lakota people. Estimates of the carnage, recorded over the decades from witness accounts and oral tradition, range from 150 to 1,000 men, women and children slaughtered along the banks of the Sacramento River.
If the higher estimates of the death toll are correct, it would rank as one of the largest single mass killings of Indigenous people in American history.
“In my heart, I find it hard to believe that there are Wintu people that are willing to build a casino on … the blood-soaked dirt of the massacre site,” Gary Rickard, chair of the Wintu Tribe of Northern California, told a state Assembly committee in August. “There are dozens of other places along the I-5 corridor and the Sacramento River.”
Redding Rancheria Chair Jack Potter Jr., himself part Wintu, called the claim that his tribe would build its casino on the massacre grounds “a slander that will not be easily forgotten.” He told state lawmakers that the real massacre site is miles away. Rancheria leaders said their opponents have manufactured the controversy for a less honorable reason: to block what would be a sparkling new competitor.
“Gaming in Indian country can be a tide that raises all of our canoes,” insisted Potter, who appeared at times to fight back tears as he spoke at the Sacramento hearing. “We should not battle against one another, in that spirit.”
Column One
A showcase for compelling storytelling from the Los Angeles Times.
Advertisement
Friendships that go back decades and tribal ties of a century or more have been imperiled by the casino furor. Native people normally aligned against a hostile or indifferent U.S. government — “We’re all the children of genocide,” as one elder put it — have watched sadly as their conflicts turn inward.
It’s a dynamic that has played out before. Robbed of their ancestral lands, tribes now sometimes fight when one tries to claim new territory, often as a base for a lucrative modern endeavor: gambling.
The friction is exacerbated by the peculiar history of the Redding Rancheria — and by opponents’ eleventh-hour invocation of the Sacramento River massacre, 19 years after the rancheria began to assemble parcels for the project.
The Redding Rancheria refers to a nearly 31-acre stretch of land near the south end of Redding that the federal government bought in 1922 for “homeless Indians” who came to the area as seasonal workers for ranches and orchards. The rancheria sits in a relatively obscure location compared with the interstate-adjacent site of the proposed casino, more than three miles by car to the northeast.
In 1939, the Wintu, Pit River, Yana and other Indigenous peoples formed a rancheria government. It was recognized by the United States. But in 1958, an act of Congress “terminated” recognition of multiple California groups, including the Redding Rancheria, in an attempt to force Indians to disperse into the general population. It took a landmark 1983 court settlement to formally restore recognition of 17 rancherias, including the one in Redding.
The result is that there are Redding Rancheria members with Wintu blood, like Potter, 52, who firmly support the casino, while other Wintu descendants who are not descended from the original rancheria families, like Rickard, 78, adamantly oppose it. Rickard grew up with Jack Potter Sr. and has known his son since he was a boy.
Advertisement
Cordiality prevails, at least outwardly, when Rickard and Potter meet today. But the bad blood between their groups has become fierce, exacerbated by the yawning wealth disparity between the rancheria and the Northern Wintu.
Rancheria members have thrived largely because of the success of their existing Win-River Resort & Casino, which operates 550 slot machines, a dozen table games, an 84-room hotel and an RV park.
The complex is the biggest income producer for the rancheria, which also owns a Hilton Garden Inn and a marijuana dispensary in Shasta County. Sources familiar with the tribe said each enrolled member receives a monthly “per capita” payment of at least $4,000 and perhaps as high as $6,000.
The rancheria’s chief executive, Pitt River descendant Tracy Edwards, 54, declined to discuss the amount of the payments.
That income, along with health clinics and other benefits, makes the Redding Rancheria members the envy of Indigenous groups with comparatively paltry assets. Rickard’s Northern Wintu claims roughly 560 certified members, but like many groups across America, the tribe has been laboring for years and still has not received formal recognition from the U.S. government. That means the tribe can’t put land into trust, a prerequisite to casino development and also a shield against federal, state and local taxes.
“We don’t have the resources in order to obtain the things we need,” said Shawna Garcia, the Northern Wintu’s cultural resources administrator. “We don’t have the revenue to assist our members with things like college, housing and other assistance.”
Historians and ethnographers say the Wintu were the predominant tribe around the site proposed for the casino complex, an expanse of meadow and scrubland that locals dub the Strawberry Fields because of its agricultural history. And Rickard questioned why the “pure-blood Wintu people” he represents have been left to struggle, while the rancheria — representing an amalgamation of tribal groups — stands poised to create an even bigger cash cow with its new casino.
Rancheria leaders like Edwards, a UC Davis-trained lawyer, have emphasized how the tribal group has supported Native and non-Native people, both as one of the largest employers in Shasta County and through its charitable foundation.
In just one year, 2018, the rancheria said it gave more than $1.2 million to community organizations, helping serve the homeless and victims of the Carr fire. During the early phase of the COVID-19 pandemic, the rancheria donated $5,000 each to 60 businesses struggling to stay afloat.
At a cost of $150 million, the rancheria’s new casino would feature 1,200 slot machines — more than double the number at its current casino — and with 250 rooms, the new casino hotel would be more than triple the size of the existing hotel. The tribal group has pledged to close its current Win-River casino when the new one opens.
The rancheria’s outsized community presence has created substantial goodwill around Redding, but a portion of residents have stepped forward — via petitions and ballot measures — to express disdain for large developments they feel could harm the rural character of their community.
Among the more powerful opponents is Archie Aldis “Red” Emmerson, president of logging giant Sierra Pacific Industries, whose sprawling estate looms along the Sacramento River, just south of the casino site.
Advertisement
In 2020, an Emmerson-allied company purchased property from the city of Redding that included a portion of a road that would be the north entry to the casino site and created an easement that would have barred access to the rancheria land for all but agricultural purposes. The easement effectively would have thwarted the casino by blocking vehicle access to the development.
But in 2022, a Shasta County Superior Court judge voided the deal, saying that in selling the land (for just $3,000 to the billionaire) the city had violated its “own processes, procedures and the relevant law.” The ruling nullified the easement, preserving the rancheria’s unrestricted access to the property.
The Redding City Council and neighboring homeowners have maintained their opposition to the project for years, while a new conservative majority on the Shasta County Board of Supervisors recently reversed the county’s earlier objections. The supervisors supported the casino, despite admonitions from the sheriff, fire chief and county counsel that the agreement with the rancheria did not provide sufficient compensation to cover the increased costs of serving the big development.
The rancheria agreed to make one-time payments totaling $3.6 million to support Shasta County, the Sheriff’s Department and fire and emergency services. That initial infusion would be supplemented by recurring payments: $1,000 for each police service call and $10,000 for each fire/emergency service call.
No issue has unsettled intra-tribal relations, though, like the debate flowing out of the terrible events along the Sacramento River 177 years ago.
Oral histories of the Wintu and neighboring tribes recall how Native families and elders had gathered along the river known as the Big Water each year in early April for the spring salmon run. Traditionally, the season signaled rebirth.
But Capt. John C. Fremont had other ideas.
Fremont diverted his men from their ordered assignment: completing land surveys in the Rocky Mountains. The Americans instead went adventuring to California, where, in the spring of 1846, they responded to sketchy claims from settlers that they were endangered.
About 70 buckskin-clad white men set upon the Native people, the locals far outgunned by the invaders, each toting a Hawken rifle, two pistols and a butcher knife, according to UCLA historian Benjamin Madley‘s detailed account of the massacre.
The horsemen completed their grisly work with such evident pride that legendary frontiersman Kit Carson later bragged that the coordinated assault had been “a perfect butchery.”
The massacre marked the beginning of “a transitional period between the Hispanic tradition of assimilating and exploiting Indigenous peoples and the Anglo-American pattern of killing or removing them,” according to Madley’s “An American Genocide: The United States and the California Indian Catastrophe.”
Fremont (later a U.S. senator from California and a Republican presidential candidate) would say that his party attacked the natives because of reports of an “imminent attack” upon settlers. But the “battle” was one-sided, with the federal troops suffering no known casualties. Afterward, according to Madley’s account, Fremont’s men feasted on the Native people’s larder of fresh salmon.
In the nearly two centuries since, the tragedy would be more forgotten than remembered. There is no historical marker around Redding noting the event.
Advertisement
The Wintu people believed to have been the principal victims have preserved memories of the mass killing in their oral history. But no ceremony marks the atrocity. And at the Wintu cultural resource center in Shasta Lake City, a wall-size timeline of the group’s history makes no mention of the 1846 bloodshed.
There’s also the now-pressing question — pushed to the fore by the casino feud — about precisely where the massacre occurred. The Northern Wintu and another outspoken opponent, the Paskenta Band of Nomlaki Indians, insist that the Strawberry Fields property was a key location in the atrocity.
The Paskenta commissioned a study by a retired anthropologist from Cal State Sacramento that drew on research from the late 1800s by a linguist from the Smithsonian Institution who, in turn, got much of his information from a Wintu elder who survived the massacre. The report, by Dorothea Theodoratus and a colleague, said that the “center” of the massacre was “opposite the mouth of Clear Creek” in the Sacramento River, a point roughly two miles south of the proposed casino location.
But other accounts from participants and witnesses said Fremont’s soldiers chased down victims after the initial assault, leaving the exact range of the bloodshed unknown. The Theodoratus report says that six villages, including two on the proposed casino property, were so thoroughly intermingled that all “would have had some direct involvement with that massacre.”
Andrew Alejandre, chair of the Paskenta Band, told the Assembly Governmental Organization Committee in August that his tribe is seeking to have the state and federal governments designate the Strawberry Fields a sacred site, off-limits to development. Alejandre, 35, said his tribe vehemently opposes building a casino “on top of men, women, children and elders. The spirit of these ancestors … Let them rest!”
Advertisement
In rebuttal, Potter and rancheria CEO Edwards note that during the many years that they and others have pursued developments in the region, the rival tribes never mentioned the massacre. Divisive fights over a proposed auto mall and a sports complex (both scrapped) came and went without any discussion about desecration of a mass grave site.
“I would never disrespect the remains of my ancestors,” Potter said.
Fifty miles south of Redding in rural Corning, the 288-member Paskenta Band opened the Rolling Hills Casino and Resort two decades ago. The luxe gaming hall is just one part of an economic surge by the tribe, which has also opened an equestrian complex, an 18–hole golf course, a 1,400-acre gun and hunting center and a 3,000-person amphitheater, where Snoop Dogg performed in May.
Potter charged that the fight over the historic massacre is really a ploy by the flourishing Paskenta to squelch the Redding Rancheria’s hopes for a shimmering destination casino “because of the mistaken belief that it … will cut into the profits of their gaming facilities.”
Paskenta’s Alejandre, a designer who once ran a clothing company, denied that is the case.
While representatives for the Paskenta and Northern Wintu tribes bashed the casino proposal at the August hearing, representatives of at least eightother California tribes argued in support of the Redding Rancheria. One said the Redding group had proved itself a good steward of cultural resources.
Another speaker at the hearing was Miranda Edwards, the 28-year-old daughter of the rancheria CEO. The Stanford-educated Edwards and her mother spoke about the importance of moving the tribal group forward for the “Seventh Generation,” future descendants whose livelihoods must be planned for today.
“We work hard every day to provide for this rural community and make it the best that we can for everyone that lives there,” Miranda Edwards told legislators. “It’s disheartening to hear from those that choose not to see that. But it will not stop our work.”
Potter, the rancheria’s chairman, had a sardonic take on the dispute.
“We always talk about crabs in a pot,” Potter said. “We are like all these crabs, stuck in a pot. When one tries to get out of the pot, all the others reach up and pull him back in.”
Will arguments about the Sacramento River massacre sway the final outcome of the Redding Rancheria’s casino quest? A BIA spokesman said only that “these issues are under review.” Nearly two centuries after representatives of the U.S. military decimated a civilization here, the federal government still retains ultimate authority over the fate of Native people.
Watch L.A. Times Today at 7 p.m. on Spectrum News 1 on Channel 1 or live stream on the Spectrum News App. Palos Verdes Peninsula and Orange County viewers can watch on Cox Systems on channel 99.
Situated in the heart of downtown Portland, Oregon, The Duniway is a Hilton hotel that offers travelers a relatively upscale boutique hotel atmosphere in a great location.
A short walk from many of the city’s most popular attractions, venues, restaurants and coffee shops, it’s a compelling option for guests looking to book a stay at a more locally-inspired hotel in the Hilton portfolio — after all, it’s named after Portland suffragist Abigail Scott Duniway.
Location
The Duniway sits at the corner of SW Taylor Street and SW 6th Avenue in Portland.
The feel around the hotel is a distinct city vibe, with nearby urban squares, tall buildings and Metropolitan Area Express (MAX) light rail trains quietly rumbling by every so often.
Staying here, you’ll be steps from a local winery’s tasting room, a short stroll from coffee shops and restaurants and an easy walk to popular gathering spots like the Arlene Schnizter Concert Hall (0.2 miles) and the Portland Art Museum (0.3 miles).
Pioneer Courthouse Square, shown above, is just over a block away from the property.
The hotel is located on the west side of the Willamette River. If you want to reach the Oregon Convention Center, on the opposite bank, it’s a short drive.
Design elements
When you walk into The Duniway, you’ll immediately encounter the contrast of dark brown wood and leather tones accented by pops of bright color.
You can relax or work at one of the many tables or leather chairs, or make your way to the Mayrose Lounge Bar, which features coffee from local Portland coffee roasters as well as a full complement of alcoholic beverages.
You’ll find Portland and Pacific Northwest-inspired imagery throughout the property.
Accomodations
The Duniway features a relatively traditional room layout that’s been modernized with smart touches and thoughtful design.
The focal point of the room is the 65-inch television integrated into a wooden floor-to-ceiling entertainment center.
The comfortable bed is flanked by attached nightstands, on which you’ll find USB charging ports and reading lamps.
Our room also offered a windowside loveseat and tables perfect for enjoying room service or getting some work done — although you might prefer the desk for the latter.
We were upgraded to a high-floor room thanks to our reservation with Fine Hotels & Resorts (and my Hilton Gold elite status), which gave us a view of downtown Portland.
The bathroom features a white marble vanity and single-use bath products (which is becoming more of a rarity these days) from Badgley Mischka.
Though we didn’t request one, we received an accessible room assignment. As such, the room offered a roll-in shower as well as a bench and hand-held shower head.
Finally, in an upgrade from more budget-oriented hotels — one that was appreciated by this coffee enthusiast — the room features Vittoria Coffee espresso machines.
Food and beverage
Just off the lobby is the Mayrose restaurant, described by the property as an American brasserie that celebrates the progressive culture of Portland.
The restaurant has an open concept feel and, depending on the time of day, is filled with natural light.
Though we didn’t find any single dish to be especially memorable, the meal was perfectly enjoyable and the menu offers plenty of options, whether you’re hoping to sit down and make full use of a property credit like us or simply enjoy a meal without having to leave the hotel premises.
The highlight was definitely an appetizer — the seared gnocchi with pea puree and crispy prosciutto ($14).
We also found the charred brussels sprouts topped with a fried egg yolk, crispy onions and sherry vinegar ($13) to be a bit of a unique take on a dish you find at many restaurants these days.
Our bill came to $97 which, thanks to our dining credit, meant we only had to pay for the tip out of pocket.
Our AmEx booking also entitled us to a breakfast credit of $30 per person, per day.
The Mayrose was packed for breakfast and brunch and featured menu offerings like scrambled biscuit sliders ($13) and an A.M. Banh Mi sandwich ($13).
However, we decided to take advantage of a separate dining option the hotel offers: you can also use property credits and charge meals to your room at The Duniway’s sister hotel, the Hilton Portland Downtown, across the street.
There, you’ll find the restaurant Hop City in the lobby, which includes a market-style area and a sit-down dining room where you can order from an a la carte menu or visit the hot buffet.
My wife enjoyed her breakfast potatoes with an over-easy egg and aioli.
Amenities
A highlight of The Duniway is Abigail’s Hideaway, a plant-filled courtyard on the 11th floor that provides an expansive outdoor area where guests can relax and get some fresh air.
There are several sofas underneath string lights, plus heaters for those cooler Pacific Northwest evenings.
Children might enjoy the giant chess board on the patio, which is open until 10 p.m. each night.
Just inside, the gym includes a Peloton bike (like most Hilton properties in the U.S.) in addition to other exercise equipment and cardio machines.
One room over, an indoor pool offers a place to go for a swim, though there’s not much room for lounging on the rather small pool deck.
How to get there
Located in downtown Portland, travelers arriving by air will likely fly into Portland International Airport, which is about a 15-minute drive from the hotel, depending on traffic.
By rideshare, my wife’s Lyft to the airport cost around $35, though that price can, of course, fluctuate with supply and demand.
Departing later, I walked a block to catch the MAX Red Line to the airport for just $2.50. If I hadn’t run into construction delays and had to switch to a bus — which, to their credit, the hotel front desk warned me about — it would have been a pretty seamless (and inexpensive) trip.
If you’re traveling to Portland with a car or have a rental, parking at the hotel is a bit pricey, at $33 per night for self parking and $55 for valet service.
The Duniway hotel recapped
The Duniway puts guests in excellent proximity to all downtown Portland has to offer, and it offers a distinctly independent, un-corporate atmosphere — not unlike what you’d find at a Hilton Curio Collection-type property.
It also offers great value for American Express Fine Hotels & Resorts guests. Between a property credit and daily breakfast credits, my wife and I saved $220 during our two-night stay, while also getting access to complimentary premium Wi-FI and a guaranteed 4 p.m. checkout — which came in handy ahead of a red-eye flight back to the East Coast.
Terms apply.
(Top photo courtesy of Sean Cudahy)
How to maximize your rewards
You want a travel credit card that prioritizes what’s important to you. Here are our picks for the best travel credit cards of 2023, including those best for:
As Maui continues to recover from devastating wildfires in August, the Hawaii island is reopening hotels and welcoming visitors, looking for an influx of tourism dollars to help support the local economy.
Maui Mayor Richard Bissen sped up the island’s phased reopening plan, which allowed almost the entire west coast of Maui, from Ka’anapali to Kapalua, to host visitors starting Nov. 1.
The Hawai’i Tourism Authority encourages visitors to support Maui businesses, but to stay away from the town of Lahaina, which was destroyed in the wildfires.
Here’s a look at the top properties on the island where you can earn or redeem points in the coming months. Keep in mind that even when a hotel is open, some amenities may have limited availability or could still be closed.
Hilton Honors
Grand Wailea, A Waldorf Astoria Resort
This property is open and welcoming visitors with close to full operations. As part of the Hilton Honors portfolio, guests can earn or redeem Hilton Honors points. For those with a Hilton Honors-affiliated credit card, they can earn bonus points for their spending. The Hilton Honors American Express Aspire Card grants cardholders top-tier Diamond status, which can help visitors get upgrades and other perks at this property. Terms apply. All information about the Hilton Honors American Express Aspire Card has been collected independently by NerdWallet. The Hilton Honors American Express Aspire Card is no longer available through NerdWallet.
Grand Wailea is undergoing a significant renovation to add new guest rooms and dining options. The 50,000-square-foot spa is closed for refurbishment, too; it is scheduled to reopen by March.
I Prefer Hotel Rewards
Montage Kapalua Bay
Marriott Bonvoy
The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua
This popular luxury hotel has reopened with full operations. Like other Marriott Bonvoy properties, it operates on a dynamic pricing model. Visitors can earn points for staying here as well as redeem as few as 80,000 points per night. The number of points needed can change based on the rate required.
Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club
This vacation rental resort is open and fully operational again.
Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa
This Marriott resort reopened to people with new and existing reservations on Oct. 29.
Wailea Beach Resort-Marriott
This property is fully operational and back to normal operations.
The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Ka’anapali
This property is scheduled to reopen on Dec. 1.
The Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas North and The Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas
This vacation rental property is operational, but some amenities are closed, including the kids’ club and fitness classes. Some of the on-site restaurants have limited operating hours.
The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas
The vacation rental resort has reopened, but some amenities are still on hiatus. The retail stores, beach services, restaurant, jogging path and kids’ club are closed. Some family activities, pools, concierge and housekeeping services are running with limited availability or hours. Housekeeping includes one midweek cleaning.
World of Hyatt
Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort
Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, also located in the Ka’anapali resort area and on 15 beachfront acres, is open with full operation. Visitors can earn points for their stay as well as redeem as few as 35,000 points per night. Those with the World of Hyatt Credit Card are also eligible to earn bonus points on their spending at the resort.
Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa
Other loyalty programs
Outrigger Kāʻanapali Beach Resort, which is part of the Discovery loyalty program, reopened on Oct. 8 and is fully operational.
For Accor All Live Limitless members, the Fairmont Kea Lani is also open following a significant update to its guest rooms. Some renovations are still taking place, including a redesign of the lobby, which is now in a temporary space.
Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea is also open and fully operational.
An ever-changing situation on Maui
As Maui slowly recovers from the wildfire disaster, its hotels and resorts are reopening.
Not all are opening at the same pace, and this is an ever-changing situation. The safest bet before traveling: call the hotel to check on the status of your reservation and the hotel’s amenities.
How to maximize your rewards
You want a travel credit card that prioritizes what’s important to you. Here are our picks for the best travel credit cards of 2023, including those best for:
As we near the end of year, it’s a good time to take stock of our credit cards and review which ones have benefits, requirements, or limits that reset at year-end. We’ll also examine which cards give you a quick double-dip credit when applying at year-end, and take a look at which cards to apply for now.
I’ve been doing this write-up with updates each year for the past number of years (2022, 2021, 2020, 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015). This year again there were many changes. I updated what came to mind, and there are probably some we missed. Please drop a comment below if you notice any changes or inaccuracies changes and we’ll update accordingly.
Calendar Year Spend Limits
Blue Business Plus and Blue Business Cash cards earn 2x/2% everywhere on up to $50,000 in purchases per calendar year. (A report indicates this resets on January 1st, not the December statement close.)
Amex Gold card earns 4x points at US grocery stores up to $25,000 per calendar year. (Resets with December statement or December 31?)
Amex SimplyCash Plus earns 5% at office/wireless and 3% on your chosen category, up to $50,000 per calendar year for each of those. This resets on January 1st each year.
Amex Everyday Preferred $6,000 limit on the 3x grocery store category per calendar year. (Resets with December statement or December 31?)
Amex Everyday $6,000 limit on the 2x grocery store category per calendar year. (Resets with December statement or December 31?)
Blue Cash Preferred $6,000 limit on the 6% grocery store category per calendar year. This resets January 1 each year, not on the December close date.
Blue Cash Everyday $6,000 limit on the 3% grocery store category per calendar year. This resets January 1 each year, not on the December close date.
The Old Blue Cash card does not reset with the calendar year, it goes with your card anniversary.
The INK Plus/Cash and the INK Preferred years do not reset with the calendar year, it goes with the card anniversary.
Also, remember that the annual limits on points earned for credit card referrals by Chase (50,000-100,000 points, depending on the card) and AmEx (55,000 points/$550) will reset on January 1st. If you’re someone who does a lot of referrals, be sure to max out what you can before December 31 and then start referring again on January 1st.
Q4 Categories: Chase Freedom, Discover, Citi Dividend, and U.S. Bank Cash+ and a few other cards have quarterly categories. The current categories for Q4 will end on December 31. More details here. Likewise, the quarterly $2,500 limit on the Bank of America Cash Rewards card will renew on January 1. There are also some spend offers from Chase, notably the 10x Gas offer, which ends on December 31st.
You have until December 31st to max out your I Bonds purchases which are limited to $10,000 each calendar year.
List of all deals ending on December 31st can be found on our Deals Calendar.
Calendar Year Spend Requirements
Amex Hilton Surpass gets a free weekend night with $15,000 in spend within the calendar year, and gets Diamond status with $40,000 in spend within the calendar year.
Amex Hilton Honors business card gets a free weekend night with $15,000 in spend within the calendar year, it gets a second weekend night with a total of $60,000 in spend within the calendar year. It also gets Diamond status with $40,000 in spend within the calendar year.
Amex Hilton Honors gets Gold status with $20,000 in spend within the calendar year.
Amex Hilton Aspire gets a second free weekend night with $60,000 in spend within the calendar year. (First weekend night comes as a card benefit, and is based on card anniversary, not calendar year.
Amex Delta Reserve – both personal and business versions – earn 15,000 MQMs (18,750 MGMs for 2021 due to temporary bonus) and 15,000 bonus miles $30,000 in spend within the calendar year, and an additional 15,000 MQMs and 15,000 bonus miles if you spend a total of $60,000 within the calendar year.
Amex Delta Platinum – both personal and business versions- earn 10,000 MQMs and 10,000 bonus miles when you spent $25,000 in a calendar year, and an additional 10,000 MQMs and 10,000 bonus miles if you spend a total of $50,000 within the calendar year.
Amex Platinum consumer and business cards – spend $75,000 or more during a calendar year and receive complimentary Centurion lounge access for up to two guests per visit.
Barclay Jetblue Plus card earns Mosaic status with $50,000 in spend per calendar year.
Chase British Airways card gets the Travel Together Ticket benefit when spending $30,000 in a calendar year.
Chase Hyatt card gets an additional night if you spend $15,000 in the past year. This one has now changed to go based on the calendar year. Finish up your spending now if you’re trying to get the additional night and begin your spending for next year on January 1st.
Chase Hyatt cards offer elite nights with spend: the Hyatt consumer card gets 2 nights for every $5,000 spent; this does not reset at all. The Hyatt business card gets 5 nights for every $10,000 spent; this resets with the calendar year.
Citi American Airlines AAdvantage Platinum Select card gets $125 flight discount certificate after spending $20,000 or more – this goes with the cardmember year (based on 12 billing statements), not based on calendar year.
American Express Cards
Airline Credit
Amex Platinum personal, Platinum business, and Hilton Aspire cards have an airline incidental credit each year: $250 for the Hilton Aspire and $200 for the Platinum cards (see what counts here). Unfortunately, gift cards no longer trigger the airline incidental credits.
With these cards, the airline credit is based on the calendar year, not on the statement closing. You can put the airline incidental charges anytime until December 31 and have it count toward the current year. It might have to actually post before year’s end, though; give a few days for that to happen.
The Amex airline credit is different than the others in this list in that you only get reimbursed for incidental spend on your designated airline. Be sure to designate that before putting the charge on the card.
If you’re looking to apply, there is still time to do so and get the airline credit for the current year. The annual fee usually hits around a month after card approval – useful to keep in mind for maximizing the travel credits without annual fees and for triple-dipping. (For those applying in the final few days of the year, see this tip.)
Related: Opening a Schwab Brokerage, Checking, and Amex Platinum Credit Card before Year’s End
Platinum Hotel Credit
The Platinum personal card comes with a $200 annual hotel credit on select prepaid bookings with American Express Travel. Be sure to book before December 31st. You don’t need to complete your travel by that date.
Platinum Uber Credit
The Platinum personal card also comes with a monthly $15 credit, remember that it gets increased to $35 during the month of December.
Platinum Saks Credit
The Platinum personal card also comes with a $50 Saks Fifth Avenue credit twice per year: one from January to June and one from July to December. Be sure to use that up before the end of December. They only charge you after the item ships, so give some leeway here.
Platinum Business Dell Credit
The business Platinum card comes with a $200 Dell credit twice per year: one from January to June and one from July to December. Be sure to use that up before the end of December (along with the Amex Offer at Dell which expires then). Give some leeway for the charge to post by December 31.
Hilton Aspire
The Hilton Aspire card also comes with a $250 Hilton Resort Credit and a free weekend night. Those are based on the cardmember year, not calendar year.
2024 Changes:
The Hilton Aspire $250 resort credit is changing on 1/1/24 to become a $200 resort credit twice per year. This goes based on the calendar year – once for January through June and once for July through December.
The $200 airline incidental credit is also changing to become a $50 airline flight credit each quarter – this goes by the calendar quarter.
The Hilton Surpass card also now has a quarterly $50 credit purchases made directly with a property in the Hilton this goes based on the calendar quarter.
Amex Green
The Green personal card comes with an annual $189 CLEAR credit and annual $100 LoungeBuddy credit. These reset each calendar year, so you should be able to use the credit for this year anytime until December 31.
Other Credits
Bank of America
Premium Rewards
TheBank of America Premium Rewards card comes with $100 airline incidental credit (see what counts here). This resets based on the calendar year. Finish up your statement credit with this one by December 31 (buying AA gift card or United Travel Bank credit is easiest), and start using your new credit on January 1. I’ll buy a gift card right away in case they close that loophole. (Note, the airline incidental meter seems to take a few days/weeks until it shows the reset. While it should be internally reset on January 1st, you might want to wait until you see it reset to zero for the avoidance of doubt.)
Premium Rewards Elite
The Bank of America Premium Rewards Elite Visa card comes with an annual $300 airline incidental credit and $150 lifestyle convenience credit (including streaming services, food delivery, fitness subscriptions and rideshare services). These reset with the calendar year.
Be sure to use up your credits from this year now, and begin using next year’s credits after the new year begins. It can also make sense to apply now and try for a triple dip on the card benefits.
Barclay JetBlue
The Barclay JetBlue Plus card gets $100 calendar year credit for JetBlue Vacations bookings.
Capital One Venture X
The Capital One Venture X personal card offers a $300 credit for bookings made on Capital One Travel. This renews each cardmember year, it’s not based on the calendar year. Same on the Venture X Business card.
Chase Cards
Southwest
Earning 135,000 Southwest points earns you the Southwest Companion Pass. Credit cardholders only need to earn 125,000 miles. The best way to time yourself is to earn the miles at the beginning of the calendar year since Companion Pass continues for the next entire calendar year. For example, if you earn 125,000 Southwest miles during January 2024, you’ll have the Companion Pass for the rest of 2024 and the entire 2025.
The easiest strategy to earn the Companion Pass has always been by getting a credit card signup bonus on the Southwest credit card. In our case, you’ll want to apply sometime in the next couple of months, taking care to ensure NOT to meet the spend requirement until after January 1st. (Technically, you can meet the spend requirement during December, so long as the statement won’t close until after the 1st.) The signup bonus points on the two cards will post after you complete the spend in early 2024, and you’ll have a Companion Pass for nearly two years.
Southwest is currently offering a signup bonus of 75,000 points with $3,000 spend. You can also signup for a Chase Southwest business card and get 80,000 points after $5,000 spend. Or you can earn points by referring friends to the Southwest card, doing category spend, shopping portal spend, or an actual flight. Again, be careful with the timing on ALL points earned.
Many of us are not eligible for any of the Southwest cards at all due to the 5/24 rule, or because you’re a current Southwest cardholder of any version or because you got a bonus within the past 24 months.
$75 Southwest Priority Credit
The new Southwest Priority card comes with a $75 annual Southwest travel credit which runs on the cardmember year, not the calendar year. No need to use it up now, specifically.
Sapphire Reserve
TheChase Sapphire Reserve card comes with a $300 travel credit (see what counts here). This used to be based on the calendar year, but now it’s based on the cardmember year – no specific need to use this now.
And if you’re applying for a new CSR card, there’s no special reason to apply before year’s end. Whenever you apply, you’ll get just one travel credit during the first year (maybe you can squeeze a second credit in right after the year renews).
Those who got the CSR before May 21, 2017, are grandfathered into the old system where the travel credit renewal goes with the calendar year. (It’s based on the December statement closing, not December 31.) Be sure you’ve already used up your credit for this year, and remember that you’ll soon be able to begin using 2020’s credit.
The Chase PYB 1.25 redemption categories ends on December 31, though they are likely to get extended.
Also, remember each quarter to use up your $15 in DoorDash credits.
Sapphire Preferred
The Chase Sapphire Preferred card comes with a $50 annual hotel credit via the Chase travel portal. This resets based on the cardmember year, not the calendar year.
Ritz-Carlton
The Chase Ritz-Carlton card offers up to $300 reimbursements for airline incidental charges (see what counts here). Chase counts the benefit based on the calendar year, not cardmember year. (It goes based on the actual calendar year, not based on your statements.) Use the credits before December 31 and begin using next year’s credit on January 1.
IHG Cards
The Chase IHG card gets a free night each year. This does not reset with the calendar year, it goes with your card anniversary.
IHG cards also have spending thresholds of $10,000, $20,000, or $40,000 to earn Gold/Diamond status for the following year and to earn 10,000 bonus points (and on the Premier $100 credit). These spend requirements go by the calendar year.
The IHG Premier personal and business cards get $25 in United TravelBank credit twice per year: one $25 United TravelBank gets deposited around January 5, and another $25 around July 5. Requires registration first.
Hyatt
The Chase Hyatt cards get a free night each year. These do not reset with the calendar year, it goes with your card anniversary.
The Hyatt Business card gets $100 in Hyatt credits each year. This is based on card anniversary.
United Quest
The United Quest card gets up to $125 in statement credits as reimbursement for United purchases. This goes based on the card anniversary year, not calendar year. The card also offers up to 10,000 miles back for award flight bookings. Again, this goes with the cardmember year, not calendar year.
Citi
Prestige
The Citi Prestige card comes with a $250 travel credit (see what counts here). The year resets on January 1st. Be sure to give a few days leeway for the charges to go from pending to settled.
If you have a Prestige card, use up the credit now, there’s only a few weeks remaining. The Prestige card is not available for new cardmember signups at this time.
Rewards+
The Citi Rewards+ card comes with a 10% rebate on redemptions, up to 10,000 points bonus per year. This is based on your December statement close. Be sure to max out your 100,000 points redemption before your December statement closes so as to get the full 10k bonus. Redemptions that post on your January statement will count toward next year’s allotment.
Expedia+ Voyager
Those who have the Citi Expedia+ Voyager card get $100 annual credit toward airline incidentals on qualified airlines, Wi-Fi carriers, or for the Global Entry application fee. This credit resets each calendar year; be sure to use it up before your December statement closes as any purchases on your January statement will count toward next year’s benefit.
AAdvantage Platinum Select
The Citi American Airlines AAdvantage Platinum Select card gets $125 American Airlines Flight Discount certificate after spending $20,000 or more during your credit cardmembership year (every 12 months from the billing cycle after your anniversary month through the billing cycle of your next anniversary month).
Citigold
Those with Citigold relationship status with Citibank get an annual credit of either $200 or $400 toward subscriptions for Amazon prime, Spotify, Hulu, TSApre/GE, and Costco membership. This credit renews at the end of the calendar year. Be sure to use up your allotment before December 30th.
US Bank Altitude Reserve
The US Bank Altitude Reserve card comes with a $325 annual travel and dining credit. In this case, the travel credit goes based on the cardmember year, not the calendar year. No specific reason to use this now.
Wells Fargo Propel World
The Wells Fargo Propel World card has a $100 airline incidental credit (see what counts here).This credit goes based on the cardmember year, not the calendar year. Check when you applied and be sure to use it up by your anniversary date.
Smaller Banks
CNB Crystal
The CNB Crystal card offers a $350 annual incidental charges (see what counts here). CNB counts this based on the calendar year. Any spend until December 31 will count as part of the current year, and January 1 begins the next year. Be sure to complete your spend before December 31. Give a few days for the charge to settle before year’s end (though it reportedly works on the last day too).
HSBC Premier
The HSBC Premier World Elite comes with $120 annual Lyft credit which is based on the calendar year. Be sure to use these up before December 31.
PenFed Pathfinder
The PenFed Pathfinder comes with $100 annual air travel ancillary credit (see what counts here). The credit is based on the calendar year, be sure to use yours before the year is up.
Architect Louis Naidorf had a disastrous 80th birthday cake. In 2008, Naidorf, who designed the Capitol Records building in Hollywood, was presented with a celebration cake that had been custom-baked in the shape of his iconic cylindrical building. But the pastry soon reflected the rather substantial difference between concrete and flour.
“When the cake was brought out, it gently collapsed, and everyone applauded,” Naidorf says, laughing over the phone from his home in Santa Rosa. “It was like in one of the movies where the Capitol Records building was destroyed.” Thankfully the cake for his 95th birthday, which he celebrated last month, was more structurally sound.
Designated a historic-cultural monument in 2006, the building has long been a favorite Los Angeles landmark to demolish on film — especially for filmmaker Roland Emmerich, who blew it up with an alien spaceship in “Independence Day” and slammed it with twisters in “The Day After Tomorrow.” Yet no movie can ever write the building out of a central place in popular music history. The tower is synonymous with the illustrious Capitol Records, home of Nat King Coleand Frank Sinatra, and the American record label of Pink Floyd and the Beatles, with the latter’s stars lining the Hollywood Walk of Fame right in front of the building.
Over the last several years, the building has been illuminated in support of various sociopolitical causes. In 2020, it was lighted red to support independent music venues. Last year, during their performance in Hollywood, Duran Duran lighted the Capitol Records building blue and yellow in solidarity with Ukraine. “I think that’s excellent,” Naidorf says. “Anything that vigorously engages the public on the right side of good causes transcends other issues. I’m flattered they use the Capitol Records building. It means it has enough cachet to merit being chosen to do that.”
Like the famous landmark he designed, Louis Naidorf has of late been experiencing his own brush with stardom, with postcards from autograph seekers arriving at his door. He is flattered but doesn’t take the attention too seriously.
Advertisement
“It’s obvious that if someone asks me for four signatures I’m part of trading baseball cards or something,” he says. “They are going to trade four Lou Naidorfs for one Joe Smith.”
Still, he’s surprised and somewhat baffled by the sudden burst of recognition after all these years. “I guess my name ended up on a list or something,” he shrugs.
Naidorf was just 24 years old when he designed the Capitol Records building, in 1953. It was the world’s first circular office building.
Though it was 70 years ago, he vividly recalls how he felt when he received the assignment for his first solo project. “At one level, I felt enormous anxiety that if I didn’t get a solution, very, very quickly, something terrible would happen,” he says. “On the other hand, I felt a total confidence that I could do it. So it was a crazy contradiction.”
Advertisement
Naidorf notes the building’s porcelain enamel sunshades with carefully spaced gaps to play with light and shadow. These cause spiral lines to appear on the building, drawing the eye into a rhythm rather than straight up and down. “You can see Capitol Records from quite a distance and you get a first impression of its basic form and character. You have a reading of it as complete,” he says. “But the building is designed so that the closer you get to the building, you discover more details.”
What about the long-standing myth that its round shape was designed to look like a stack of records with a rooftop antenna resembling a phonograph needle? As hard as it might be to believe, the legendary story about the building is just a coincidence — an urban legend that Naidorf has tried to debunk for decades.
In fact, when his boss, Welton Becket, tasked him with the assignment, the building was simply referred to as Project X. Shrouded in secrecy, Naidorf was given little guidance for the project other than being asked to design a 13-story building on a sloped side street in Hollywood that had to be kept as cool as possible and had smaller than usual floor space. He also didn’t know for whom he was designing it. Naidorf says it was common for clients’ identities to be kept confidential during the initial planning stages of a project.
However, Naidorf relished the creative latitude. The absence of information left him unburdened by preconceived ideas. “I knew the door was open for something special. It urged me so strongly,” he says earnestly. “I felt, and I think all architects feel this way … there’s a drive to translate the mundane bare requirements that clients come in with into something that has some poetic qualities about it.”
Advertisement
Naidorf then had an epiphany: The project’s requirements were “eerily resonant” with a series of circular buildings he had designed for his master’s thesis in college. “The round shape is a very efficient enclosure of space,” he says. “You get more bang for your buck.”
Not everyone agreed with his approach. Naidorf says that Capitol Records co-founder and President Glenn Wallichs became irate when Naidorf presented him with a model and drawings of a round building, and “violently rejected” the design. “He thought it was a cheap stunt designed by a young guy to make the building look like a stack of records,” Naidorf says, laughing.
Wallichs insisted that Naidorf replace the round design with plans for a rectangular building. But when both rectangular and circular designs were presented to the insurance company financing the land, Naidorf says that Wallichs was urged to proceed with the round design.
Soon after, when talk of the building housing a radio station (that never came to fruition) was raised, Naidorf fretted when he was asked to design an antenna. He was worried that it would look like a phonograph needle and cement the idea that the building was designed to look like a stack of records.
Owing to his nagging concern, Naidorf positioned the rooftop spire asymmetrically, poised to appear as if it touches the roof delicately, like “a ballerina en pointe.” He calls it the building’s “grace note.” Still, the stack-of-vinyl myth persists. Laughing, Naidorf says, “It’s the most enduring myth of all.”
Advertisement
Despite his good humor, it leaves him conflicted. “The building was not designed as a cartoon or a giggle. To have it trivialized with the stack-of-records myth is annoying and dismaying,” he says. “There’s not a thing on the building that doesn’t have a solid purpose to it.”
Naidorf’s ingenuity has been especially impressive to Los Angeles-based architect Lorcan O’Herlihy, who says he has “often responded strongly to the fact and admired that here was this interesting architect [Naidorf] who was combining science and art, or artistry and technology. Welton Becket [& Associates], very much to their credit, were at a period where modernism was at its heyday and they had to come up with ideas that were new and fresh and they did it, and Lou was certainly instrumental in that. His work is extraordinary.”
Naidorf was born in Los Angeles in 1928. His father owned a shop where he made and sold women’s clothing, with Naidorf’s mother lining the garments. Owing to his father’s lack of accounting skills and business acumen, however, the business often collapsed, forcing his parents to work at a garment factory until debts could be paid off to reopen the store.
Throughout his childhood, Naidorf’s family struggled financially as they moved around, living mostly in Silver Lake and Los Feliz. With only enough money to rent studio apartments, Naidorf’s parents slept on a Murphy bed while Naidorf spent his nights on a mattress on the floor.
As a little boy, Naidorf felt drawn to buildings. When his third-grade teacher decorated the classroom with a Hawaiian vacation theme, his fascination morphed into a calling. “I asked my teacher who made the drawings and she said, ‘Naval architects.’ And then I asked her who draws the plans for houses and she said, ‘Architects.’ She told me to ask my mother to show me the floor plans that were published in the real estate section of the Sunday edition of the newspaper.
Advertisement
“When I saw them, I was a goner,” he swoons. “I now knew what I wanted to do. I wanted to be an architect.”
Naidorf remembers, at age 8, designing a three-bedroom house, using a card table as a makeshift drafting table. Soon after, he began designing small towns. “It wasn’t anything brilliant, but I was learning to draw, learning to scale and learning to think in spatial terms,” he says. When he was 12 years old, Naidorf got a part-time job at a bookstore, where he spent his first two paychecks on architecture books, absorbing them until they were threadbare.
Beyond literature, Naidorf amassed a growing collection of architectural materials (T-square, rectangles, instruments for ink drawings), thanks to his bar mitzvah presents, and decided he was ready to get to work. Sanford Kent, a young architect who had just graduated from USC, hired a tenacious 13-year-old Naidorf, paying him out of his own pocket.
Naidorf says tackling the abstract problems Kent gave him at once stimulated his mind and were instrumental in forming his long-standing ethos. “It got me thinking about architecture in terms of its effect on human emotions. The key issue is, ‘How do people respond to your work, whether from a distance or by living it?’” he says.
He continued to soak up whatever he could about architecture, gearing his junior and high school classes toward studying architecture in university. He attended UC Berkeley instead of the privately funded USC, not only to leave home and expand his horizons but also because of its affordability.
Advertisement
Even still, Naidorf couldn’t afford all of the program’s required materials. He borrowed airbrushes from his fellow students, who would also give him their pencil stubs instead of tossing them out. Naidorf submitted his assignments on pebble board, which was not only cheaper than illustration board but allowed him to draw on one side, flip it over and draw on the other.
In 1950, Naidorf graduated at the top of his class and got his master of architecture degree a year early. He skipped his graduation ceremony because he had a job interview the next day at Welton Becket & Associates, where he was promptly hired. Among his earliest design assignments: a tray slide for a hospital cafeteria, a clothes closet and a “Please Wait to Be Seated” sign for a restaurant.
Three years into his employment, he began working on the Capitol Records building. Naidorf says he would design it the exact same way if he were given the assignment today.
Andrew Slater, former Capitol Records president and chief executive (2001-07), attests to the building’s distinctive charm. “When you go to work every day in that building it’s like you’re going into a piece of art, and it informs your attitude … to do something with that mindset, which is great,” he says. “Even though working in the music industry is, in a sense, an industrial endeavor, you never felt like you were doing anything industrial when you walked into that building.”
Advertisement
Still, Naidorf fears being perceived as a “Johnny One Note,” as he puts it. Noting the plaque bearing his name outside the building’s main entrance, he expresses gratitude but wariness “that this one modest project has to carry my whole reputation on it.”
It’s a fair point, given the magnitude of Naidorf’s notable oeuvre. It’s earned him 17 regional honor and merit awards and AIA California’s Lifetime Achievement Award (2009). His work also has been featured at the J. Paul Getty Museum in Los Angeles.
“I know Capitol Records is always the first one people talk about and it’s a splendid, iconic building that fuses artistry and functionalism, but he’s also produced other projects over the years,” says fellow architect O’Herlihy. “The Santa Monica Civic Auditorium is brilliant.”
Advertisement
Naidorf designed the 3,000-seat capacity Santa Monica Civic Auditorium on the heels of the Capitol Records building, in the late 1950s. Essentially two buildings in one, it was a challenge to design a locale that functioned at once as a performance space with a sloped floor and an exhibit hall with a flat floor for sports events, banquets and trade shows.
He transformed the floor from flat to tilted using a hydraulic system that was hailed for its innovation. “I don’t think you’ll find any place that has a symphony on a Friday night and a gem show, or some kind of hobby show, on Saturday,” he says.
Formerly home to the Santa Monica Symphony Orchestrabut currently sitting vacant, the Civic Auditorium opened its doors to the public in 1958. From 1961 to 1968, it hosted the Academy Awards. It also was the site of live recordings including George Carlin’s comedy record “Class Clown” and the Eagles’ “Eagles Live,” a double LP recorded during their three-night run at the venue. It also hosted “The T.A.M.I. Show” in 1964.
In the meantime, while the Civic was still under construction, Naidorf designed the 15,000-seat capacity Los Angeles Memorial Sports Arena, the biggest arena in Los Angeles when it opened in 1959. (The arena was demolished in 2016 to make way for the Banc of California Stadium, now called BMO Stadium.)
Naidorf says the Sports Arena, home to various Los Angeles sports teams including the NBA’s Lakers (1960-67) and Clippers (1984-1999) and the NHL’s Kings (1967-68), was built to attract sports teams to Los Angeles, but uncertainty about whether they’d catch on meant the facility had to be viable for other purposes.
Advertisement
In 1960, a year after it opened its doors, the Sports Arena hosted the first Democratic National Convention in Los Angeles, where John F. Kennedy became the presidential nominee. Muhammad Ali (then known as Cassius Clay) won a boxing match there in 1962. It also hosted rallies by Martin Luther King Jr. and the Dalai Lama, and saw concerts by legendary rock acts including the Grateful Dead.
Bruce Springsteen played the venue’s final concerts before the building was demolished, a three-night stint during which he dedicated his song “Wrecking Ball” to the building lovingly nicknamed “The Dump That Still Jumps.” “Well, it was pretty dumpy by the end,” Naidorf says, laughing. “Not all architecture is permanent,” he continues. “I’d rather it was demolished and some useful purpose made of the site than having it sit there old, shabby and neglected as it was.”
Naidorf’s credits also include the Beverly Hilton Hotel, the Beverly Center and the Reagan State Office Building downtown. Outside of Los Angeles, Naidorf helmed the restoration of the California State Capitol Building in Sacramento, a six-year undertaking and then the largest-ever restoration undertaken in the U.S., and he designed President Gerald Ford’s house in Rancho Mirage.
The tallest building in Arizona, the Valley National Bank building (now Chase Tower) in Phoenix, also was designed by Naidorf, as well as the Hyatt Regency Dallas and adjacent Reunion Tower, the most recognizable landmark of the city’s skyline.
Advertisement
He details these and his other high-profile projects in his 2018 book “More Humane: An Architectural Memoir”, filled with photos, backstories and personal anecdotes. Flipping through its pages, one learns that Naidorf not only took risks designing his projects but even risked his job on occasion.
He writes in his memoir that in 1958, when he was designing the Humble Oil (now Exxon) headquarters in Houston, he refused to design separate locker rooms and drinking fountains for Black and white people, as the company asked him to. When he went home on that Friday night, he describes not knowing if he’d have a job the following Monday. Not only did Naidorf not lose his job, he says, but the company ceased segregating its locker rooms and drinking fountains after that.
“I realized architects have access to some of the most powerful people in the world and it is our job to bring up issues that represent social issues rather than just architectural design,” he says. “The only thing for evil to triumph is for good people to remain silent. Architects should not remain silent.”
Naidorf also understood that sometimes he was designing projects where people don’t want to be, like the Naval Medical Center in San Diego, which opened in 1988. “I felt that there were two emotions we had to contend with,” he says. “One was to lay the sense that this would be welcoming and have a more personal quality. But if you go to a hospital you want a quite contradictory thing. You want to have a sense that it’s state-of-the-art, that whatever powerful forces can cure you, they’re there.”
Instead of one medical building, which he felt would seem ominous, he designed several structures and a series of outdoor walkways to make the facility feel warm and comforting. The treatment and diagnostic part of the facility was bold, with an abundance of steel and glass. Walkways were lined with floor-to-ceiling glass to allow patients to see the outdoor courtyard, grass, trees, sky and distant views of a golf course “based on the primitive feeling you have in the hospital, which is to get out of the damn place,” he says.
Advertisement
When he was out shopping a few months ago, Naidorf met a woman who mentioned that she had been in the Navy, forcing her to move around a lot when her son was battling childhood leukemia. Without knowing she was talking to the Naval Medical Center’s designer himself, she told Naidorf that it was the only hospital that didn’t scare her ill 6-year-old son, who has since made a full recovery.
“What kind of an architect…,” Naidorf says, overcome with emotion and his voice breaking, “do you have to be not to hold that as better than any design award?”
Though Naidorf had risen through Welton Becket & Associates’ ranks to become vice president, director of research and director of design, he grew increasingly unhappy after the firm’s merger with Ellerbe Associates (it was renamed Ellerbe Becket). He moved into academia full-time in 1990, spending just one day a week at the firm.
Naidorf became dean of the School of Architecture and Design at Woodbury University, earning numerous distinctions, including teacher, faculty member and administrator of the year. He was also a guest professor at UCLA, USC, Cal Poly Pomona and SCI-Arc. At his retirement ceremony in 2000, he was awarded an honorary doctorate, marking not only the end of his academic career but also his time in Los Angeles.
Advertisement
Charmed by the beauty of Northern California, Naidorf moved up the coast to Santa Rosa. For the next 15 years, he continued working with Woodbury University as campus architect, designing and remodeling some of its buildings, and was invited to be a board member.
When he parted ways with Woodbury at 87 years old, it was not with the goal of taking it easy. Naidorf had other pursuits in mind, including his work with City Vision Santa Rosa revitalizing the city’s downtown area.
He also helped his close friend, Mike Harkins (who edited Naidorf’s memoir), design his new house free of charge after the 2017 Tubbs Fire burned Harkins’ home to the ground and he and his wife lost 99% of their belongings.
“Lou offered without solicitation: ‘I’d like to design your house,’” Harkins says. “To me or anyone else who knows him, it was a heartfelt offer that of course he would make, and yet so much more. One analogy might be if Eric Clapton said, ‘I’d like to play at your wedding.’ The knowledge and sensibility that comes along with a Naidorf design offering is huge, just like his heart.”
Most recently, Naidorf has been experimenting with plans for a project to help people who are unhoused.
Advertisement
Naidorf has made the most of his architecture license over the last 71 years. His voice fills with pride when he reveals that he holds the earliest issued active architecture license in the state of California, obtained in 1952.
“It’s something I wanted to be since I was a little kid. My architecture license was so hard to come by. I don’t want to give it up,” he says with palpable emotion. “I don’t want to be retired. I want to be an architect until I fall over. I plan to be buried as a licensed architect.”
Of recently turning 95, he jokes that he feels like a bad vaudeville performer who soon will be pulled offstage by a hook. But Naidorf remains in remarkably good health after surviving both prostate and esophageal cancer in his 80s.
To keep his brain sharp, he does exercises including counting backward from 100 by sevens and taking IQ tests online.
As a nonagenarian, he says there is no key to living a long life. He suggests, though, that it helps to try to use it well. “It’s not how big the steak is but how tasty it is,” he says. “I think you have to seek a calling, listen for it and search for it. Find something in your life that is really yours. … Get engaged with something that’s going to scare you, something where the problems are hard. And take risks. There is no failure.”
He also notes the importance of adaptability. “I have had four marriages. I’d better be resilient,” he quips. Twice divorced and twice widowed, Naidorf has a daughter from his first marriage, four stepchildren (who call him “Dad”) from his fourth marriage, 11 grandchildren and six great-grandchildren. An intensely private man, he’s reticent to speak publicly about his relationships and family, preferring to focus on his work.
“I remain so fascinated with architecture,” he says. “I cannot even walk past a store where somebody is putting in an electrical outlet without stopping to look in and watch it.”
Advertisement
The chatty Naidorf turns summarily succinct, saying, “I certainly have had a good run.”