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Save more, spend smarter, and make your money go further We all know about supply and demand in relation to the economy, but have you heard of a housing bubble? Perhaps you’ve heard the term as it relates to the 2008 market crash, or perhaps you’ve heard whispers that we’re in another housing bubble again. … [Read more…]

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Last month’s average temperatures nationwide were the second highest ever recorded, and July is showing no signs of relief. The hot weather paired with many large utilities already raising customer rates means that Minters could see their highest utility bills ever this year.

Luckily, there are steps you can take now to reduce the cost of cooling your home. So sit back, pour yourself a cold drink and take advantage of these tips to keep your utility bill from heating up.

Replace Your Air Filters

You should be replacing your air filters once a month, especially during the summer. Dirty filters restrict airflow, which means the air conditioner runs longer and uses more energy. Replacing a clogged filter will reduce your energy consumption by up to 15%! Buy several filters at once and create a recurring calendar reminder on your phone.

Cool Down Your Bed, Not The Room

Feeling hot when you try to fall asleep is uncomfortable at best, but running the air conditioning all night is the quickest way to a steep energy bill. Instead of turning down the temperature on your thermostat, consider purchasing a bed fan or cooling mat. Bed fans are special bed-height units that send cool air between your bed sheets, using much less energy than central air or a wall unit. Cooling mats use no energy at all! Just pop it in the refrigerator during the day, and place in your bed when you’re ready to turn in for the night.

Consider a Smart Thermostat

Your thermostat controls half of your energy bill, so any cost savings strategy deserves a long look at that tiny box on your wall. Thermostat innovator Nest reports that a correctly programmed thermostat – ones that make adjustments based on your activity – can save about 20% on your heating and cooling bill. In fact, average annual savings with the Nest Learning Thermostat is $173/year – with units costing around $250, you’ll see a return on your investment in your second year.

You can use Nest’s online tool to calculate how much money you can save based on your location, home size and system specifications. Even if you don’t have a smart thermostat, don’t forget: adjusting your temperature just one degree can cut your energy use up to 5%.

Get an Estimate for Radiant Barriers

If you live in a region with prolonged hot temperatures, updating your home’s insulation is a great option for reducing cooling costs for good. Radiant barriers – also known as reflective insulation – reflect heat away from the home.

Heat travels in three ways: conduction, convection, and radiation. Traditional insulation materials slow conductive and convective heat flow, but do not account for radiant heat that travels through your roof and into your house. Radiant barriers are easiest to install in new construction, but can be installed in your existing house, especially if it has an open attic. Studies show that radiant barriers can reduce cooling costs 5% to 10% when used in a warm, sunny climate.

What are some tips and tricks you use to keep things cool around your house? Share with us in the Comments or on Twitter with #MyMintTips.

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When they’re finally ready to make the jump from renting to home ownership, most first time homebuyers enlist a real estate agent to help them through the process. No wonder: buying a home is complicated and when it’s your first time, you feel like you could use some hand-holding.

Real estate agents provide a valuable service and are generally well-paid as a result. There’s nothing wrong with that. But money does have a way of distorting relationships — even when honest people are involved.

Here are some tips that will help you, as a first time homebuyer, take full advantage of today’s real estate market and get the most out of your relationship with your real estate agent.

1. Your agent is your agent

When you’re new to the process, it is easy to believe that the guy with 20 years’ experience calls the shots. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Your real estate professional is your agent: he or she works for you, gives you advice and negotiates on your behalf. He doesn’t make decisions for you and you should not expect him to.

2. Only fools fall in love

After you’ve looked at a few houses that weren’t quite right, your agent will probably tell you not to get discouraged, and that eventually you will “fall in love” with the right property.

Love makes you do stupid things. Stupid things like paying too much or looking past costly repair items. As a first-time homebuyer, you should develop a healthy ‘like’ for a property, but keep the relationship open, see other houses. There will be plenty of time for “love” after you’ve put in the 300 hours of sweat equity to make your house a home.

3. Be willing to walk away

If you never fall in love with a piece of real estate, you’ll never cry when you have to walk away from it. Real estate agents often use the phrase “my client will walk away” and some use it quite loosely to stress the importance of a point for negotiation. If you want to retain the full strength of your position as a buyer, you’ll need “I’ll walk away” to mean that you are done if your demands aren’t met.

For your agent to communicate this correctly to the seller, he needs to know that you mean what you say. And yes, if it reaches that point, you will need to walk away from a property. Not to worry: there are others out there. But don’t be surprised if you hear back from the seller a week later that he is willing to work with your demands.

4. Time is on your side

Your agent is going to tell you that you have to move quickly and make the best offer possible when you find the right property. This is not always the best advice. As a first time homebuyer, you are in a unique position of strength in terms of the real estate transaction. You aren’t selling your home, so you don’t have to move. You can look at and make offers on many properties. You can start with a low offer and negotiate upwards if the seller balks. You can table a counter-offer and look around a bit before deciding to pay more. The opposite is generally true of sellers in a buyer’s market. They need to sell the property and are motivated to move as quickly as possible. Use time to your advantage.

5. Your agent is not your friend

Your agent performs valuable services in the real estate transaction, but he really doesn’t make anything until you buy a piece of real estate. That makes him a salesman. Being a salesman, he wants you to feel like he is a friend who has your best interests at heart.

The reality is that your interests and your agent’s may not be aligned. He is actually better off financially if you make a quick decision and pay too much for a property. This is, after all, likely the largest business transaction of your life. Make sure that your agent, regardless of how personable he is, understands that you are a customer and that you need him to drive the best business deal for you.

6. The listing agent just might be your best friend

In the New York Times best-selling book Freakanomics, authors Steven D. Levitt and Stephen J. Dubner point out that real estate agents typically market their own homes for 10 days longer than they market their clients’ homes. Is this because they are so busy with their clients that they don’t have time to market their own homes?

No, it really comes down to how we incent real estate agents with commission. When an agent is selling his own home, he enjoys the full benefit of any increase in sales price so he is extremely motivated to market for as long as possible to get the best sales price possible. But when it comes to a client’s home, an extra week on the market might lead to a higher sales price for the seller — but the agent will only enjoy a very small amount of that increase in the form of marginal increase to commission. Meanwhile, marketing a home for another week would take him away from marketing someone else’s property. As such, the listing agent is highly motivated to convince the seller that your offer is the best offer he is going to receive. Use this to your advantage and make offers that are good for you.

7. There is no such thing as an embarrassingly low offer

When it comes to a property that has been sitting with no action, there is no such thing as an offer that is too low. Some agents will tell you that that you could offend the seller or that your offer is embarrassing. A good agent will encourage you to make strategically low offers. Offers are really not a lot of work and the worst thing that can happen is that your offer is not accepted. Often, however, in a buyer’s market a low offer will turn into a counter-offer. Think of the first offer as the starting point for negotiations and be prepared to consider counter-offers.

8. Online real estate companies can save you money

Over the past decade, online real estate companies have started to take market share away from traditional brick-and-mortar agencies. They’ve grown by offering discounts and rebates on the traditional 3% real estate commission. RedFin, one of the leading online real estate companies, offers buyers a rebate of up to 50% of the commission at close. RedFin also compensates their agents with salary as opposed to commission, which alleviates some conflict of interest issues. Granted, the service may not be as extensive or personalized — but the extra cash may offset the drawbacks.

8 Home Buying Secrets Your Real Estate Agent Won’t Tell You was provided by CreditSesame.com

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Want to pay off high-interest debt in one fell swoop? Searching for ways to pay for a basement renovation, a bathroom upgrade, or a new tile roof? Since you probably don’t have that kind of money stuffed under your mattress, a natural place to look for more funds is in your single biggest asset: your home.

But before you tap into those funds, you need to know exactly what you’re getting into. Putting your home at risk isn’t for the uninformed or undisciplined.

Home equity loan vs. home equity line of credit

The first step to tapping into your home equity involves understanding your options. There are two major ones: a home equity loan (HEL) or a home equity line of credit (HELOC). Here’s a handy guide to the basic differences between the two, including pros and cons.

Helpful tips on the HEL

A home equity loan is, at heart, a second mortgage. You receive a lump sum at a fixed rate of interest that’s locked in when you procure the loan. You’re expected to pay it back in fixed monthly payments for a fixed amount of time — typically 10 to 15 years.

Pros:

  • Your interest rate is fixed, which means no shocking increases later.
  • Because payments are due monthly, this can be a good option if you have a hard time exercising the discipline needed to pay off a loan a little at a time on your own.
  • The interest rate on a HEL, though higher than that on your primary mortgage, will still be lower than the rates available on credit cards.
  • If you’re using your HEL to pay off credit cards, in addition to lower interest rates, you’ll have the benefit of consolidating all your debts into one payment.
  • The interest on your home equity loan may be tax-deductible, but you’ll want to thoroughly read Publication No. 936, the IRS’s guidelines on the home mortgage interest deduction, to ensure the degree to which you’re eligible. If your loan is for home-improvement purposes, rather than, say, college tuition, you’re allowed even greater leeway in deducting the interest.

Cons:

  • You borrow (and owe interest on) the whole amount, rather than being able to simply borrow what you need.
  • If you’re using the equity to fund something that will involve multiple payments over time — say, for example, a phased home-improvement project or quarterly payments on college tuition — you’ll have to be sure not to spend the money on other things in the interim.
  • If you use your HEL to fund something that immediately depreciates, such as a car or new furniture, you may hurt your net worth in the long term. Boosting the value of your home has a better chance of enhancing your overall financial picture over the long haul.
  • You may be prohibited from renting out your home, according to your loan terms.
  • You risk losing your home if you can’t make the payments.

Hello, HELOC

A home equity line of credit, by contrast, functions more like a credit card — using your home as collateral. You ask for a line of credit, and the lender assigns a maximum amount you can borrow — a credit limit. Lenders typically determine this amount by taking a percentage of your home’s appraised value and subtracting the amount you still owe on the mortgage; then they factor in things such as your credit history, debt load, and income. The lender then gives you a set of blank checks or a credit card that you can use to withdraw funds.

Unlike a HEL, the line of credit allows you to borrow what you need, when you need it, up to the full amount approved. So why wouldn’t everyone want to apply for a HELOC in case an emergency strikes? Take a look at the pros and cons to see for yourself.

Pros:

  • You don’t have to borrow in a lump sum; you can withdraw the funds when you need them.
  • HELOCs can be used as emergency funds in the event of a crisis, like losing your job, since you can access funds on an ongoing basis as needed.
  • Some lenders may allow you to convert to a fixed rate of interest, or to a fixed-term installment loan, for part or all of your balance.
  • The rates of interest, though variable, may still be lower than other forms of consumer credit, since they are secured with collateral — your home.
  • The interest on your HELOC may be tax-deductible, just as it is for the HEL, but consult IRS Publication No. 936 for confirmation of what applies to your particular circumstance.

Cons:

  • HELOCs typically have variable interest rates tied to the prime rate, so you could end up owing a much higher balance than you had anticipated.
  • The terms of a HELOC may dictate that you must begin withdrawing funds within a certain time period, and that you withdraw a minimum each time.
  • The costs of securing a HELOC aren’t pocket change. Expect to pay for a current property appraisal, an application fee, closing costs, and other possible charges, including points on your loan. You may also be subject to transaction fees every time you withdraw money.
  • Though the HELOC offers flexibility in terms of when you withdraw funds, there is no flexibility in terms of the end date. When the term of your loan expires, the balance of the loan is due in full. If you procrastinate or have difficulty making regular payments over the long haul, you may be hit with an excessively large bill at the end.
  • Lenders make it very easy to access the funds; you have to be disciplined enough to resist unless there’s an emergency or a planned expenditure that’s worthy of risking your home.
  • You may be prohibited from renting out your home, according to your loan terms.
  • You can damage your credit and lose your home if you’re unable to repay on schedule.

Conclusion

Before you rush to apply for a home equity loan or line of credit, first give serious consideration to whether you really need the funds. The terms can sound enticing, and the money seems relatively easy to get, but it all may be too easy. If you’ve ratcheted up high-interest debt and now see your home equity as a way to deal with the problem, you need to recognize that the loan is just a temporary fix. Clearing the decks so you can start spending again will be destructive to your financial health.

Whether it’s a HEL or a HELOC, consider yourself a good candidate only if you have the discipline to use the funds for a dedicated purpose, you’re spending the money on something of vital importance, and you can repay on time. If that’s you, tapping into home equity can be a useful strategy for accomplishing your goals.

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While you can’t stop winter’s imminent arrival, there are preventative steps you can take to avoid an unexpected freeze to your cash flow. Mint sought out the experts for tips on how to protect your budget this winter.

Your Home

If you’re a homeowner, prevention is key to keeping maintenance costs low throughout the year—but especially in the winter. The best part is, you don’t have to have a knack for home improvement in order to stay vigilant about keeping home repair costs to a minimum.

Check your roof. If you are weary about climbing a ladder, you can get a feel for your roof’s condition from the ground with a pair of binoculars. Alyssa Hall of GAF, North America’s largest roofing manufacturer, recommends visually scanning your roof for any signs of sagging or uneven areas, which can indicate roof damage beneath the shingles.  On the shingles, look for curling edges, those that are missing entirely, and any signs of damage caused by animals. If you have asphalt shingles or a slate roof, look for black areas, which indicate that a shingle is cracked or missing. If you spot problem areas, call a roofer to assess the situation before snowfall strikes. If problems are left to worsen, you could have a sagging or caving roof, water leaks, and water damage on your hands.

Clean gutter systems. Hall also advises clearing gutters of any leaves, branches and roots, so that melting snow and ice has a way to get off the roof. Water or snow left standing on the roof increases the odds of leaks and ice dams—which can quickly lead to major repair costs.

Seal windows. Richard Apfel, president of Skyline Windows says, “the average home uses 10 to 15 percent of its energy costs through improperly sealed windows.” Check for leaks by placing piece of paper in the window frame and then closing the window. If you can pull the piece of paper out without tearing it, you’ve got an air leak. You can try to seal the leak yourself with silicon-based caulking materials (available at your hardware store). If you still feel a draft after caulking, buy a clear plastic window film kit (also sold at hardware stores). They’re inexpensive, easy to install with the help of a hair dryer, and can save you major bucks on your heating bills. Apfel also says, “the plastic creates an insulating air pocket that can cut heat loss by 25 to 40 percent.”

Maintain water pipes. Roto-Rooter Plumbing and Drain Service‘s Larry Rothman advises homeowners to disconnect outside water hoses and repair dripping outside faucets before temperatures drop to freezing.

If you have interior shut-off valves that lead to outside faucets, drain the water from the pipes and close them for winter. Wrap heat tape (available at hardware stores) around pipes that are in unheated areas to minimize the potential for frozen pipes. If you leave for the winter months, set the furnace to no lower than 55 degrees.

Your Car

Maintenance and safety. Experts at PEAK Automotive Performance advise replacing wiper blades, and filling wiper and brake fluid, motor oil, and antifreeze before the winter. Check tire pressure regularly as temperatures get lower; you’ll lose a pound of pressure for every ten degrees that drops. (Your driver side doorjamb will tell you the advised pressure—also called “pounds per square inch” (PSI). Check your battery life, too—they can lose up to one-third of their starting power in the cold. (PEAK experts say that many auto service shops will check this for little to no cost).

If you live in an area that gets snow and ice, keep a bag of sand in your trunk. If you get stuck, spread the sand underneath your wheels to gain traction.

Your Safety

Fire prevention. Heating is a leading cause of residential fires during the winter. When compared to central heating, using space heaters increases the risk of fire by three to four times, according to Brett Brenner, President of the Electric Safety Foundation International (EFSI). Plug space heaters directly into a wall outlet and allow at least three feet of space between the heater and anything that can catch fire. Never place the heater on cabinets, tables, or furniture.

If you use a space heater in a bathroom, make sure that it is specifically designed for use in a damp area.  When you leave a room or go to sleep, unplug the space heater.

Insurance. Review your homeowner’s, renter’s, and auto insurance policies to confirm that you have adequate levels of coverage before an accident happens. If you carry minimal amounts of coverage with a high deductible to save money on premiums, make sure that you have enough savings readily available to cover the deductible amount. Otherwise, you won’t be able to tap into your insurance coverage when you need it most. This is particularly true in the case of auto insurance. Remember that liability-only policies will help pay for damage you cause to other drivers—but won’t cover your auto repair costs.

Your Pets

Pets also face potential dangers in winter months and veterinary care can quickly erode your budget. Dr. Jules Benson of Petplan Pet Insurance reminds pet owners to remove snow, ice and salt from paws and the coat as soon as pets return indoors to prevent potential cuts and abrasions. (According to 2010 Petplan claims data, the average cost to tend to an injured paw is $200!)

Older pets and those with medical conditions can also experience exacerbated symptoms and joint pain in the winter months, so pay close attention to temperament changes. When applying rock salt to sidewalks and driveways, try to use a pet-friendly version and make sure animals do not ingest it. Besides the stress of a poisoned pet, Petplan data shows the average cost to treat it is around $500.

Stephanie Taylor Christensen is a former financial services marketer based in Columbus, OH. The founder of Wellness On Less, she also writes on small business, consumer interest, wellness, career and personal finance topics.

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The following credit resource question was submitted by a Minter on Mint’s Facebook page.

Question: “Why is it incredibly cumbersome to get your credit report and FICO score? There are so many detours, traps, and dead-ends! Where can I go to go to get trustworthy information about my credit history and credit score?”

Answer: This question exposes what many of us in the credit space already know…it’s a jungle out there!

Smart consumers understand that it’s important to have good credit. The first step to maintaining a good credit score is to get your credit reports from time to time so you can see what the credit bureaus are saying about you. T

his process is supposed to be easy enough so claiming your credit reports doesn’t become burdensome to the point you do it once, and never again.

SmartMoney published an article a little over a year ago identifying the significant growth of websites that sell credit-related products and services. At publication time, the number was “more than 20 websites,” which was up from five a decade prior.

Multiple destinations offering similar credit-related products and services can sometimes leave the consumer feeling confused as to which are the most appropriate and reputable.

So, in an effort to help out the Minter who asked the question, and anyone else who finds the online credit landscape a little confusing, I’ve come up with reputable outlets you can use to stay engaged with your credit and credit-related rights.

Getting Free Credit Reports

You have the right under Federal law to claim your free credit reports once every 12 months. In order to leverage these rights, you have to go to www.annualcreditreport.com. This is the only website where you can claim your legitimately free credit reports provided for under Federal law.

If you live in Colorado, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Puerto Rico or Vermont, you’re entitled to one additional free credit report per year (either calendar year or every 12 months, depending on the state). Georgia residents get two free reports per calendar year.

In order to claim your state law freebie, you have to go directly to the credit bureaus’ websites, which are www.Equifax.com, www.Experian.com and www.TransUnion.com. You cannot claim your free credit report per state law via the annualcreditreport.com website.

I’ve said this over and over, but it’s worth repeating: the credit reporting agencies are not going to sneak up behind you and stick a credit report in your pocket because they’re not obligated to do so. You have to ask for them.

Getting Free Credit Scores or Buying FICO Scores

You do NOT have the right under any law for free annual credit scores, although a provision in Dodd-Frank requires that if your credit score was used to make an adverse decision in response to a credit application, then the lender has to give you your score for free.

There are a variety of outlets that will give you a score if you sign up for a credit monitoring service trial subscription. Opinions vary on whether or not that’s “free” or “conditionally free.”

I’m not here to have that argument. I’m here to show you where you can get free credit scores without a chance of being charged anything.

www.CreditSesame.com will give you a free credit score from Experian called the “Experian National Risk Model.” It’s a legit credit score that’s available for sale to lenders.

It’s not a FICO score, but it will give you a very good idea of what kind of credit risk you pose to lenders. No credit card is required for claim your free score.

www.CreditKarma.com will give you a free TransRisk credit score from TransUnion, which is also commercially available to lenders. Again, it’s not a FICO score, but it will give you an idea of your credit risk.

You can also get your VantageScore credit score from the site. VantageScore is also a credit score available to lenders. No credit card is required to claim your free score.

www.myFICO.com will sell you your FICO scores based on Equifax and/or TransUnion data. myFICO is the consumer division of FICO (formerly known as Fair, Isaac) and these are the guys that invented the ubiquitous FICO credit score. The cost is $19.95 per credit report and score.

www.Equifax.com will sell you your FICO score based only on Equifax data. Be aware that they also sell a non-FICO score. Point being, if you want to get your FICO score, then be sure it says “FICO score” and not simply “credit score.” The cost is $19.95.

Freezing Your Credit Reports

In my mind, the credit freeze is infinitely more effective at protecting you from identity theft than simply monitoring your credit reports. Freezing your credit reports is proactive and locks out any lender trying to process new credit applications.

Monitoring your credit reports is reactive and tells you after something bad has already happened. The good news is that freezing your credit reports is much less expensive than paying monthly subscriptions to monitor your credit report.

To freeze your credit reports you can go to…

Stopping or Minimizing Credit Card Offers

Under Federal law, you have the right to prevent the credit reporting agencies from selling your name to creditors who want to offer you preapproved offers of credit. This is often called “Opting Out.”

If you’re not opted out, then your name can be sold, normally to credit card issuers, who will take a first pass at screening your credit reports and FICO score. If you meet or surpass their criteria you may get a firm offer of credit in the mail.

If you want to ensure that your name is never screened like this again, you can opt out for free here. This is 100% free and you can always opt back in if you want to start getting preapproved credit card offers in the mail again. After a few months you’ll be surprised just how empty your mailbox is.

Do you have a credit question for John Ulzheimer? Visit Mint’s Facebook page and ask away!

John Ulzheimer is the President of Consumer Education at SmartCredit.com, the credit blogger for Mint.com, and a contributor for the National Foundation for Credit Counseling.  He is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring and identity theft. Formerly of FICO, Equifax and Credit.com, John is the only recognized credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. The opinions expressed in his articles are his and not of Mint.com or Intuit. Follow John on Twitter.

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Apartment hunting can be a real hassle. Newspaper listings don’t give you enough information, apartment guide magazines are almost always out of date, and driving around town looking for “For Rent” signs wastes time and gas.

Apartment search engines aim to make finding a new apartment easier by showing listings from multiple sites in a single, easy-to-read format. Some sites hit the mark, while others miss it by miles.

As a renter, here’s how I rank apartment rental sites from best to worst:

PadMapper

PadMapper is the one site I’ve had the most success with because you can customize your search results in nearly every way imaginable. The basic search goes by price, number of bedrooms, and type. The expanded search lets you enter in your own keyword or look for pet-friendly spots. But the best feature of PadMapper is the super-secret setting (seriously), which is a blue bar called “Show Super-Secret Advanced Features.” With this setting, you get a crime map, walk score, neighborhood layout, and mass transit map for each listing.

MyApartmentMap

If you’re looking for a specific type of rental, MyApartmentMap is the site to search. It sorts results by pets allowed, military housing, college apartments, or affordable housing. You can also refine your search within each option, such as, choosing cats, small dogs, or large dogs under the “pets allowed” subsection. The listings themselves are the easiest to browse of all the sites. Each listing has a photo and the rent price clearly marked.

HotPads

If you’re an organizational nut like me, you’ll love the interactive map on HotPads. Each apartment listing appears on the map as a color-coded “hotspot.” Clicking a hotspot pulls up the listing, and from there you can hide the apartment or add it to your favorites. Hiding a listing removes the hotspot, while adding to your favorites puts a star on the map. After sorting all the listings, you’re left with one easy map showing you which apartments you want to look at.

RentLinx

RentLinx does have some cool search features. You can look for income-based, Section 8-approved, handicapped-accessible, and smoke-free rentals. The site was harder to navigate than the others, and even after sorting by most recent listing, all of the ads I saw were a year or two old.

MyNewPlace

MyNewPlace is pretty bare-bones. The site does have some advanced search features that will let you sort by rent price or show you pet-friendly apartments, but the available listings are sparse. My ZIP code only showed 27 listings, whereas PadMapper, MyApartmentMap, and HotPads showed hundreds. After searching, the site required I give my email before I could view any of the listings. The signup sheet had a disclaimer that basically promises to spam my email with advertisements from the site. It adds, “Generally, you may not opt-out of these communications.”

Rentals.com

In my area, Rentals.com mainly listed sponsored ads from corporate apartment complexes with a few private rentals mixed in. While the site listed tons of complexes, the listings themselves weren’t all that comprehensive. None of the ads had floor plans, the photos included were mostly of the complex, and the pricing usually said “Varies.”

RentCompare

RentCompare was a navigational nightmare. The site’s two search options, sort by ZIP code or sort by city name, both came back with errors no matter how many different combinations I tried. When I finally got a search to work, the site required me to sign up before I could see the listings. Sign-up took four separate tries with four separate errors. In the end, I was able to see a few listings with some decent information, but the site wasn’t worth the hassle.

While I tried to cover most of the popular sites, there’s no shortage of others out there. Do you have a favorite site I didn’t mention, or one to avoid?

“The Best and Worst Apartment Rental Sites” was provided by MoneyTalksNews.

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Let’s do a little investment simulation. Don’t worry—I’ll do the math.

Jane has a $5000 consumer loan and a $20,000 stock portfolio. Her net worth is $15,000. (Ah, the simple life of a person in a word problem.)

If the stock market goes up 10%, Jane makes $2,000 and her net worth goes up to $17,000 ($22,000 in the portfolio, minus the $5000 loan).

If the market goes down 10%, Jane loses $2000. Are you with me so far?

Jane decides to pay off the loan. Her net worth is still $15,000, but now it’s $15,000 in stocks and no debt. Then the stock market goes down 10%, and Jane only loses $1500. By paying off the loan (a financial nerd would call it “deleveraging”), Jane’s portfolio got less risky: The same change in the market caused a smaller change in her portfolio, even though her net worth stayed the same.

It doesn’t matter that Jane borrowed the money for a dining room set. As long as she owes the money, she’s taking on more investment risk than if she didn’t owe it. Her net worth fluctuates more with each day’s stock returns because of the debt. That’s not necessarily good or bad (maybe Jane wants to take on more risk in the hope of getting a bigger return) but it’s a mathematical fact.

This is all grade school math, right? But if we replace “consumer loan” with “mortgage,” somehow it makes otherwise intelligent people, investors and financial planners alike, forget basic arithmetic.

“Investing on mortgage”

I’ll include myself among the mathematical amnesiacs, because I only came to understand this principle because of a recent blog post by Michael Kitces, director of research for Pinnacle Advisory Group, who writes the Nerd’s Eye View blog.

The post is written with financial planners in mind, not consumers, so I’m going to summarize it as follows: If you have both a mortgage and an investment portfolio, you’re probably making a big mistake. A big, fat, Greek default-style mistake.

Let’s go back to Jane. Now she has a $100,000 mortgage, a $100,000 house, and a $200,000 stock portfolio. Her net worth is $200,000 (the portfolio plus the house, minus the mortgage). When the stock market goes up 10%, Jane makes $20,000. When it goes down 10%, she loses $20,000.

Say Jane takes $100,000 from her portfolio and pays off the house. Her net worth is still $200,000, but her portfolio has dropped to $100,000. Now when the stock market goes down 10%, Jane only loses $10,000. Her portfolio got less risky, but her net worth stayed the same. (Yes, we’re assuming remarkable stability in the real estate market.)

Jane would tell you that she wasn’t borrowing money to invest in stocks, she was borrowing money to buy a house. Well, her portfolio and her bank don’t give a hoot. As long as she owes money, her investment performance has a bigger effect on her bottom line than if she didn’t owe.

After paying off her mortgage, Jane comes to you for financial advice. She’s thinking of taking out a new fixed-rate home equity loan to plump her portfolio back up to $200,000. What is she, insane? If she’d decided not pay off her mortgage in the first place, she’d be in exactly the same position, with the blessing of most financial planners and, until recently, me.

Whether Jane knows it or not, she is borrowing against her house to invest in the stock market, and she should understand the risks.

So what?

That sounded like a lot of academic drivel, I know. But if you’re a homeowner with a mortgage, it has real implications for your financial health. Assuming you’re in a position to save money beyond your mortgage payment, you are making a scaled down version of Jane’s decision every month: Pay down the mortgage, invest for retirement, or both?

“Each and every year I get to make a conscious decision about whether I want to implicitly buy stocks on mortgage by keeping the mortgage and buying stocks,” says Kitces. Or bonds, for that matter. Look at what you’re really doing:

Using borrowed money to buy bonds is stupid. Sure, mortgage rates are low. Bond rates are lower. Would you take out a 4% mortgage to buy bonds paying 2%? Me neither.

Using borrowed money to buy stocks is dangerous. Stocks are risky. Stocks bought with borrowed money are more risky. If you walk into a reputable financial planner’s office and tell them your financial plan is to borrow a bunch of money to invest in stocks, they will sit you down and give you a parental lecture about imprudent risk-taking. But if you’re using mortgage money to juice up your portfolio, somehow that’s okay?

Implicit in the idea that it’s okay to buy stocks “on mortgage,” as Kitces puts it, is the belief that stocks will definitely outperform in the long run. Jorie Johnson, a certified financial planner in Manasquan, New Jersey, doesn’t take a client’s mortgage into account when setting up their investment portfolio for this reason. “As long as you have a reasonable expectation of doing better in the market than your mortgage interest rate, you should be putting the money in the market,” she says.

However, this a point both technical and practical. If your goal is to shoot for the moon in your retirement portfolio by ratcheting up the risk with borrowed money, there’s a cheaper way to do the same thing by maintaining a smaller, but riskier, portfolio: Pay down the mortgage, but own more stocks and fewer bonds. You’ll lower your risk of ending up with negative home equity, save on mortgage interest, and achieve the same level of portfolio risk, with the same expected returns.

“Taking on more portfolio risk is the equivalent of having less portfolio risk but more leverage,” says Don St. Clair, a certified financial planner in Roseville, California. “If you’re not willing to take some of your portfolio and pay off your debt and jack the risk of your portfolio back up, then you shouldn’t be willing to keep the same portfolio and not pay off your debt.”

The good old days

So, if you shouldn’t use borrowed money to buy stocks or bonds, what should you use it for?

Kitces just bought a house, and here’s his answer. “I’m really going to spend the bulk of the next ten years knocking this mortgage down to zero,” he says. “We are radically ratcheting down savings into investment accounts and really ratcheting up payments toward the mortgage.”

This feels intuitively wrong, doesn’t it? Everybody knows you should make retirement saving a habit and do it faithfully, month after month. Accelerating mortgage payments so you end up with a paid-off house and very little in other assets beyond an emergency fund and your 401(k) match can’t be a good idea, can it?

Just a couple of decades ago, it wasn’t just a good idea; it was conventional wisdom. “It was really straightforward: You built a giant down payment, you took on as little debt as possible, and whatever you did take on in debt, you knocked it out as quickly as possible,” says Kitces. “And when you actually got it done, you literally held a party and burned the mortgage note in your fireplace.”

Can anyone really say that isn’t still good advice? Oh, don’t explain it to me. Explain it to the Las Vegas homeowner who is $100,000 underwater. Nobody needs to be told how toxic negative equity is in 2011, right? If anything, positive home equity offers more flexibility than a 401(k) balance. “They have home equity line of credit options, the ability to move, the ability to relocate, and the financial freedom to make decisions,” says Kitces.

My money is trapped!

Now, wait a minute. Presumably, your investment portfolio is inside a 401(k) or IRA or some other box with “do not open until retirement” stamped on it. It would be crazy to pay the 10% penalty and a huge wad of taxes just to knock off a chunk of your mortgage.

I agree. So while you have a mortgage, what do you do with this money? You invest it in a way that reflects the fact that you’re playing with borrowed money. In other words, Johnny Mortgage’s portfolio should be invested heavily in bonds and cash. Remember that they’re not really bonds and cash. They’re stocks wearing disguises, because a portfolio of low-risk assets bought on leverage is still high-risk.

Even though it doesn’t often feel like it, a mortgage has an end. Later, when the mortgage is nothing but fireplace ashes, you can direct 100% of your former mortgage payment into your retirement savings.

But mortgages are special

Mortgages are weird. Nowhere else in the world of finance can you get a 30-year fixed-rate loan with tax-deductible interest and the option to refinance if rates drop. Of all the kinds of debt, I’d probably agree that this is the best one to use to invest on leverage.

That still doesn’t make mortgage debt cute and cuddly. As the 23% of homeowners who are underwater know, mortgage debt can still bite you right where it hurts. Nearly all of those homeowners would have been better off paying down the mortgage rather than investing, or just keeping their investments in cash. (Yes, I know plenty of them did neither, which compounds the injury.)

Oh, there is one last wrinkle. In most states, you can walk away from a mortgage. The bank will take your house but can’t come after your other assets. As a forward-looking strategy, however, strategic default sucks. (Sorry for the parent lecture.) “Is your strategy for wealth creation really that you should buy real estate with as much debt as you can, because if it goes badly you can stick it to the bank?” says Kitces. “I don’t think that’s really how we’re telling people to build wealth.”

What do you think? Is there any defensible reason to buy stocks or bonds “on mortgage”? Or has everyone already forgotten 2008?

Save more, spend smarter, and make your money go further

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