If you’ve been contributing to a 401(k) or employer-sponsored retirement account for several years but are now leaving your job, you may be wondering what to do with your retirement account. Do you cash out your nest egg and let the money sit in a bank account until you retire?
It may be tempting to have unrestricted access to a lump sum of cash. But unfortunately, holding your retirement in a bank account could cost you a fortune. Furthermore, the small returns generated won’t keep up with inflation and your nest egg will actually lose value.
A more suitable option: a rollover IRA. Keep reading to learn how they work, along with key benefits and how to initiate an IRA rollover.
What is a Rollover IRA?
In a nutshell, a rollover IRA is an account that is designed specifically to hold funds transferred from employer-sponsored retirement plans, including 401(k), 403(b), profit-sharing and Keogh plans.
The purpose of a rollover IRA is to keep the tax-deferred status of those assets. Rollover IRAs also offer several distinct benefits.
What are the benefits of a Rollover IRA?
When you cash out or take distributions from retirement plans, two things happen. For starters, the funds are subject to taxation and the tax deferral benefit goes out the window. And if you haven’t yet reached 59 ½, you’ll also incur a 10% early withdrawal penalty.
However, an IRA rollover allows you to avoid taxation as long as you transfer the funds properly. Even better, you’ll also escape the 10% penalty.
Other benefits:
It’s free. You read that correctly. That are no fees to open a rollover IRA and transfer the funds from your 401(k) or other employer-sponsored plans into the new account.
Low fees. You may have to pay minimal fees to cover brokerage commissions and fund expenses associated with transactions. But there are financial entities, like Schwab, that offer rollover IRAs devoid of annual or maintenance fees.
No rollover limits. Fortunately, you’re allowed to roll over all the funds in your retirement account, regardless of the amount, without incurring a penalty.
Flexible investment options. Most 401(k) plans only allow you to select from a limited pool of assets, typically in the form of mutual funds, to build your portfolio. But with a rollover IRA, you’ll be afforded the opportunity to choose from an array of assets, including stocks, ETFs, and bonds, just to name a few.
Funds can be transferred to a new employer’s plan. If you find employment elsewhere, and they offer a qualifying retirement plan, you will be able to transfer the funds from the rollover IRA to their plan if you choose to. You also have the option to leave the funds where they are.
How to Roll Over a 401K to an IRA
Direct Rollover
To ensure the funds from your 401(k) or other employer-sponsored plan are moved seamlessly, a direct transfer is the preferred option. Selecting this option also minimizes the chances of an error occurring with the transfer. You’ll also avoid having to pay taxes on your nest egg and incurring early withdrawal penalties.
Even better, it’s easy to execute direct transfers. As all you need to do is contact your former employer and request that they transfer the funds to the entity that the rollover IRA will be housed. Expect to complete paperwork on both the sending and receiving end, but it shouldn’t take too much of your time. And once you’ve done your part, the direct transfer of funds will be completed in a brief window of time.
Indirect Rollover
If you prefer to set up the new account on your own, you have the option to do what’s referred to as an indirect rollover. Rather than having your former employer send the funds directly to the new entity that will manage the rollover IRA, you’ll need to obtain the funds via check and set up the account yourself.
Another important consideration: with direct transfers, your employer usually won’t deduct income tax before sending the funds to the company in charge of managing the rollover IRA. But if you take the indirect rollover route, there’s a chance they will, to the tune of 20%.
This means you could find yourself paying this amount out of pocket to avoid incurring additional penalties and fees when opening up a new account. Even worse, you won’t be eligible to recoup the funds until you file your annual tax return.
You should also know that you have 60 days to do so, or you’ll be on the hook for federal income tax and a 10% early withdrawal fee (if you aren’t yet 59 ½ years of age or older). To give yourself the best possible chance of avoiding any issues, promptly deposit the funds and notate your rollover IRA account number on the check.
Furthermore, follow up regularly until the funds are posted to your account, and you’ve confirmed the account is all set.
Other Important Considerations
Annual Rollover Limits: In most instances, you are limited to one rollover per year.
Roth IRAs: If you’re interested in a Roth IRA, you have the option to convert the proceeds from the rollover IRA. However, you will have to pay taxes right away, as Roth IRAs are comprised of post-tax contributions and distributions are tax-free.
See also: What’s the Difference Between a Traditional IRA & a Roth IRA?
Bottom Line
Rollover IRAs are an ideal way to avoid taxation and penalties when you leave your employer and are no longer eligible to participate in their retirement plan. But, if you’re uncertain if your plan is eligible for a rollover IRA, inquire with your plan administrator to determine what options are available to you. You can also view IRS Topic Number 413 for additional guidance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why would I want to roll over my retirement account?
There are several reasons why you might want to roll over your retirement account. For example, you may want to move your money to a new IRA with lower fees, better investment options, or more flexibility.
Can I roll over any type of retirement account into a rollover IRA?
Yes, you can roll over most types of retirement accounts into a rollover IRA, including 401(k)s, 403(b)s, and traditional IRAs.
How do I choose the right rollover IRA provider?
When choosing a rollover IRA provider, you should consider factors such as fees, investment options, customer service, and the provider’s reputation. You may also want to consider whether the provider offers any additional services, such as financial planning or investment advice.
Today’s average mortgage rates on Apr. 22, 2024, compared with one week ago. We use rate data collected by Bankrate as reported by lenders across the US.
Mortgage refinance rates change every day. Experts recommend shopping around to make sure you’re getting the lowest rate. By entering your information below, you can get a custom quote from one of CNET’s partner lenders.
About these rates: Like CNET, Bankrate is owned by Red Ventures. This tool features partner rates from lenders that you can use when comparing multiple mortgage rates.
Refinance rate news
A vast majority of US homeowners already have mortgages with a rate below 6%. Because mortgage refinance rates have been averaging above 6.5% over the past several months, households are choosing to hold on to their existing mortgages instead of swapping them out with a new home loan.
If rates fell to 6%, at least a third of borrowers who took out mortgages in 2023 could reduce their rate by a full percentage point through a refinance, according to BlackKnight.
Refinancing in today’s market could make sense if you have a rate above 8%, said Logan Mohtashami, lead analyst at HousingWire. “However, with all refinancing options, it’s a personal financial choice because of the cost that goes with the loan process,” he said.
What to expect from refinance rates this year
Mortgage rates have been sky-high over the last two years, largely as a result of the Federal Reserve’s aggressive attempt to tame inflation by spiking interest rates. Experts say that decelerating inflation and the Fed’s projected interest rate cuts should help stabilize mortgage interest rates by the end of 2024. But the timing of Fed cuts will depend on incoming economic data and the response of the market.
For homeowners looking to refinance, remember that you can’t time the economy: Interest rates fluctuate on an hourly, daily and weekly basis, and are influenced by an array of factors. Your best move is to keep an eye on day-to-day rate changes and have a game plan on how to capitalize on a big enough percentage drop, said Matt Graham of Mortgage News Daily.
What to know about refinancing
When you refinance your mortgage, you take out another home loan that pays off your initial mortgage. With a traditional refinance, your new home loan will have a different term and/or interest rate. With a cash-out refinance, you’ll tap into your equity with a new loan that’s bigger than your existing mortgage balance, allowing you to pocket the difference in cash.
Refinancing can be a great financial move if you score a low rate or can pay off your home loan in less time, but consider whether it’s the right choice for you. Reducing your interest rate by 1% or more is an incentive to refinance, allowing you to cut your monthly payment significantly.
How to find the best refinance rates
The rates advertised online often require specific conditions for eligibility. Your personal interest rate will be influenced by market conditions as well as your specific credit history, financial profile and application. Having a high credit score, a low credit utilization ratio and a history of consistent and on-time payments will generally help you get the best interest rates.
30-year fixed-rate refinance
For 30-year fixed refinances, the average rate is currently at 7.25%, an increase of 19 basis points compared to one week ago. (A basis point is equivalent to 0.01%.) A 30-year fixed refinance will typically have lower monthly payments than a 15-year or 10-year refinance, but it will take you longer to pay off and typically cost you more in interest over the long term.
15-year fixed-rate refinance
The current average interest rate for 15-year refinances is 6.76%, an increase of 15 basis points over last week. Though a 15-year fixed refinance will most likely raise your monthly payment compared to a 30-year loan, you’ll save more money over time because you’re paying off your loan quicker. Also, 15-year refinance rates are typically lower than 30-year refinance rates, which will help you save more in the long run.
10-year fixed-rate refinance
The current average interest rate for a 10-year refinance is 6.62%, an increase of 25 basis points compared to one week ago. A 10-year refinance typically has the lowest interest rate but the highest monthly payment of all refinance terms. A 10-year refinance can help you pay off your house much quicker and save on interest, but make sure you can afford the steeper monthly payment.
To get the best refinance rates, make your application as strong as possible by getting your finances in order, using credit responsibly and monitoring your credit regularly. And don’t forget to speak with multiple lenders and shop around.
Reasons to refinance
Homeowners usually refinance to save money, but there are other reasons to do so. Here are the most common reasons homeowners refinance:
To get a lower interest rate: If you can secure a rate that’s at least 1% lower than the one on your current mortgage, it could make sense to refinance.
To switch the type of mortgage: If you have an adjustable-rate mortgage and want greater security, you could refinance to a fixed-rate mortgage.
To eliminate mortgage insurance: If you have an FHA loan that requires mortgage insurance, you can refinance to a conventional loan once you have 20% equity.
To change the length of a loan term: Refinancing to a longer loan term could lower your monthly payment. Refinancing to a shorter term will save you interest in the long run.
To tap into your equity through a cash-out refinance: If you replace your mortgage with a larger loan, you can receive the difference in cash to cover a large expense.
To take someone off the mortgage: In case of divorce, you can apply for a new home loan in just your name and use the funds to pay off your existing mortgage.
Managing debt can be a daunting task, but with the right strategies, you can make it easier to pay off and keep your finances in check.
Whether you’re trying to pay off credit card debt, student loans, or other types of debt, there are several strategies you can use to make the process easier.
Benefits of Effective Debt Management
Managing debt effectively is important for several reasons. First, carrying high levels of debt can be a financial burden and may prevent you from achieving their financial goals.
It can also have a negative impact on credit scores. This can make it more difficult and expensive to borrow money in the future.
Finally, failing to manage debt effectively can lead to financial distress and potentially even bankruptcy. By taking steps to pay off debt and reduce the amount of debt that is owed, you can improve their financial stability and well-being.
What is debt management?
Debt management is the practice of organizing and paying off debts through financial planning and budgeting. The goal is to lower and eventually eliminate debt. You can create your own debt management plan or hire a credit counselor to make one for you.
The advantage of doing it yourself is that it’s free, but it takes time and effort. Credit counseling can take stress off your shoulders, but is an added expense. There are many methods for debt management that you can implement on your own.
Assessing Your Debt
Gathering Debt Information
To effectively manage your debt, you first need to identify all debts and gather relevant information about each one. This includes the creditor, balance, and interest rate for each debt.
If you don’t already have a list of all your debts, you can review most of them on your credit reports. Regularly reviewing your credit report is an important financial habit to get into. You can request a free credit report from each of the three consumer credit bureaus at least once per year.
It can be helpful to create a spreadsheet or use a budgeting tool to keep track of all your debts, including the creditor, balance, and interest rate for each one.
Calculating Total Debt
Once all debts have been listed, it is helpful to calculate the total amount of unsecured debt that is owed. This can give you a better understanding of your overall financial situation and the work that needs to be done to pay off your debts.
Identifying High-Interest Debts
After calculating total debt, you should identify which debts have the highest interest rates. These debts may be a higher priority to pay off, as the interest will continue to accrue and potentially increase the total amount owed.
By focusing on paying off high-interest debts first, you can save money in the long run and make progress in paying off their debts more quickly.
Develop a Plan to Pay Off Debt
Developing a plan to pay off debt is crucial for financial stability and well-being. By identifying a strategy for paying off debts and sticking to it, you can make progress in reducing their debt and improving their financial situation.
Reduce Interest Rates
You may be able to reduce the interest rates on your debts by negotiating with creditors or transferring balances to a credit card with a lower interest rate. It is worth considering these options as they can save money on interest and make it easier to pay off debts.
Create a Budget
Creating a budget can help you identify areas where you can cut expenses and redirect those funds towards paying off debt. This may involve reducing discretionary spending, such as dining out or entertainment. You should also find ways to reduce fixed expenses, such as by shopping around for the best rates on utilities or insurance.
Humans are creatures of habit, and even when we’re in debt, the last thing we want to do is change our lifestyle. But any good debt management plan has to at least consider where your expenses could potentially be reduced. The more you can cut back on other expenses, the quicker you can get yourself out of debt.
It doesn’t have to be a long term change. Even reducing expenses for a few months can help.
Here are some examples of expenses you may be able to reduce:
Minimize entertainment subscriptions, or see if you can save by switching plans.
Minimize dining out and take your lunch to work.
Cancel your gym membership and work out at home.
Knowing your own finances in detail will help you find ways to reduce your expenses. Even if you work with a credit counseling organization, nobody is better placed to figure out how to reduce your costs than you are.
Consolidate Your Debts
One option for paying off debt is to consolidate multiple debts into one loan with a lower interest rate. This can make it easier to manage multiple debts and potentially save money on interest.
Debt consolidation options include taking out a personal loan or using a home equity loan or line of credit. Another option is transferring balances to a credit card with a lower interest rate.
Be sure to carefully review the terms and fees associated with consolidation options and ensure that they are a suitable fit for your financial situation.
Set Goals and Track Progress
To stay on track with paying off debt, it can be helpful to set specific goals and track progress towards achieving them. This may involve setting a target for the amount of debt to pay off each month or quarter.
It could also involve setting a goal for the total amount of debt to pay off by a certain date. Tracking progress can help you stay motivated and see the progress that they are making in reducing their debt.
More Tips on Managing Your Debt
Here are some additional tips for managing your debt that can help you effectively pay off what you owe and improve your financial situation:
Pay More Than the Minimum Payment
Making more than the minimum credit card payment can help you pay off your debts more quickly and save money on interest. Credit card companies typically set a minimum payment that is calculated as a percentage of the balance owed.
Making the minimum payment may be sufficient to avoid late fees and negative marks on your credit history. However, it may not make a significant dent in the overall balance. By paying more than the minimum each month, you can reduce the total amount of interest that you pay over time and make progress in paying off your debts.
Avoid Taking on New Debt
While you’re working on paying off your existing debt, try to avoid taking on new debt. This will make it easier to focus on paying off what you already owe.
Consider Setting up Automatic Payments
There are several benefits to setting up automatic payments for your bills:
Convenience: Automatic payments take the hassle out of remembering to pay your bills on time. You can set them up once and forget about it, knowing that your bills will be paid automatically each month.
Avoid late fees: If you forget to pay a bill, you may be charged a late fee. By setting up automatic payments, you can avoid these fees and save money.
Improve credit score: Paying your bills on time is a key factor in determining your credit score. By setting up automatic payments, you can ensure that your bills are paid on time and improve your credit score.
Simplify budgeting: When you know exactly when your bills will be paid each month, it can be easier to budget and manage your money.
Contact a Reputable Credit Counseling Agency
If your debt has gotten out of control, contact the National Foundation for Credit Counseling (NFCC) for detailed, personalized financial counseling and education. They can help you explore different ways to pay down debt.
A credit counselor can provide advice and assistance with developing a personalized plan for paying off debt and improving financial health. Credit counselors can also help you negotiate with creditors and create a debt management plan.
Seeking professional help can be especially beneficial if you are experiencing financial distress or are at risk of falling behind on monthly payments.
Bottom Line
In modern America, completely avoiding debt is difficult and potentially harmful. However, incurring debt without managing it effectively can be even worse. Follow the tips above, and you’re sure to get a solid handle on debt and use it skillfully.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I pay off my debt with the highest interest rate first?
It can be a good idea to pay off your debts with the highest interest rates first, as these debts will cost you more in the long run. This is known as the “debt avalanche” method. Alternatively, you can also consider the “debt snowball” method, where you focus on paying off your smallest debts first to build momentum.
See also: Debt Snowball vs. Debt Avalanche
How can I create a budget to help me pay off my debt?
To create a budget, start by listing all of your income sources and all of your expenses, including your debt payments. Then, try to find ways to cut back on your expenses and redirect that money towards paying off your debt. You can also consider increasing your income by taking on a part-time job or negotiating for a raise at work.
What is debt consolidation?
Debt consolidation is the process of rolling multiple debts into a single new loan product with one monthly payment. This brings your payment schedule into a more manageable place.
Ideally, consolidated loans will come with lower interest rates and more manageable payment terms. Personal loans and 0% interest balance-transfer credit cards are among some of the most common debt consolidation options.
What is debt settlement?
Debt settlement is the process of negotiating with a creditor to reduce the level of your outstanding balance. This is one of the last resorts for those who have trouble paying their debts in full.
The process involves working with a debt settlement company to negotiate with creditors on your behalf. Generally speaking, creditors will only entertain debt settlement for debt that isn’t current.
It’s important to note that debt settlement requires you to stop making payments, which will harm your credit score. Debt settlement companies will also take their cut on top of any fees charged for successfully negotiating.
If you choose to take this route, make sure you find a reputable debt relief company to work with.
How can I rebuild my credit after paying off my debt?
After paying off your debt, you can rebuild your credit by making all of your payments on time. You should also try to keep your credit utilization low and diversify your credit mix. Other options include applying for a secured credit card or becoming an authorized user on someone else’s credit card to help establish a positive credit history.
If you are wondering how often you can apply for a credit card, the right pace will vary based on the person, their credit score, and the card issuer’s restrictions. While there’s no single hard number when it comes to that query, once every six months is a good pace.
If you have good credit, a more frequent pace can be fine. If you have poor credit, however, you might want to slow things down. Read on to learn the ins and outs of how often you can apply for a credit card.
How Applying for a Credit Card Affects Your Credit Score
If you want to apply for a new credit card, you may be concerned about whether applying for credit cards hurt credit score. Applying for a credit card can affect your credit score in a few ways, including credit utilization, new credit inquiries, the average age of your accounts, and your credit mix. Here’s a closer look.
New Credit Inquiry
There are two types of credit inquiries: hard versus soft credit inquiries. During a soft inquiry, which is also called a soft pull or a soft credit check, a credit card issuer will check your credit, but it won’t affect your credit score.
However, when you apply for a new credit card, the credit card issuer will probably do a hard credit check. Hard credit inquiries do negatively affect your credit score. Every hard inquiry can drop your credit score by up to five points. However, this impact won’t last forever. Hard inquiries remain on your credit report for up to two years but they can only impact your score for 12 months.
Credit Utilization
Credit utilization is the amount of revolving credit you are currently using divided by the total credit available to you. Credit utilization is usually expressed as a percentage. When you open a new line of credit, like a new credit card, your total credit limit increases, and your credit utilization ratio decreases. This can help build your credit score. Experts recommend keeping your credit utilization below 30%.
Credit utilization can affect your credit score. And if you are approved for a new card, when that credit limit is added to your current credit limit, your total maximum will likely increase, which can lower your utilization percentage.
Average Age of Accounts
The longer the average age of your accounts on your credit report, the higher your credit score will likely be for that category. When you open a new account, it will reduce the average age of your accounts. If you have established credit with multiple accounts that are several years old, a new account opening may not have a significant impact. If all of your accounts are new, adding additional new accounts may have a greater negative impact.
Credit Mix
Lenders like to see that borrowers have a variety of different types of credit. This shows that they can handle different types of payments. The impact of opening a new credit card has on your credit mix will depend on your current credit array. If you already have several credit cards, it may not impact your credit score much. If you don’t have any other existing credit cards, opening up a new credit card could improve your credit mix and therefore help build your credit score.
Recommended: How Many Credit Cards Should I Have?
How Often Should You Apply for a Credit Card
Now, about the question of how often you can apply for a new credit card: While there is no hard and fast rule about how often to apply for a credit card, some experts recommend waiting at least six months between credit card applications.
• Those with poor credit may need to wait even longer between applications to maximize their chances of getting approved for a new credit card.
• Those with excellent credit can probably apply for a new card more often, like every three months.
Why You Should Wait Before Applying
Here are some reasons why you should think twice and delay before applying for a new credit card:
• If you don’t know how to use a credit card responsibly, you may want to consider waiting before applying for a credit card.
Worth noting: If you have bad credit from a maxed out credit card, you may want to work on building your credit score first. Some tips:
• If your credit utilization ratio is high because you don’t have a high credit limit, you could try implementing the 15/3 credit card payment method. The 15/3 credit card payment method is when you make two payments each statement period instead of one. You pay half of your credit card statement balance 15 days before the due date on your statement, and then make another payment three days before the due date. This additional payment can help lower your credit utilization ratio throughout the month, which can also help improve your credit score.
• Other reasons you may want to wait before applying for a credit card include if you’re buying or refinancing a home currently, since applying for a new credit card can result in a higher mortgage interest rate or potentially being declined from the mortgage altogether.
• You should also evaluate the credit card benefits and welcome offer to make sure it is the right fit for you and the best offer that you can get. Credit card sign-up bonuses fluctuate throughout the year. Before applying for a credit card, you should do some research to see what the highest offer has been. If the current offer is significantly lower, consider waiting to apply for that card.
How Many Credit Cards Can You Apply for at One Time
Technically, you can apply for as many credit cards at once as you want. However, you likely won’t get approved for all of them. And you could trigger a slew of hard credit inquiries. So putting in a load of applications likely won’t be worth the negative impact on your credit score.
Credit Card Issuer Restrictions
How many credit cards you can apply for at one time will vary based on the credit card issuer. Each card issuer has its own rules and restrictions about applications. American Express, Bank of America, Capital One, Chase, Citibank, Discover, U.S. Bank and Wells Fargo all have their own issuer restrictions regarding applications, cards and welcome offers.
Credit Card Tips
Once you have been approved for an additional credit card, you need to know how to manage multiple credit cards. Try these strategies to stay in good financial health:
• Understand your obligations. There are several credit card rules to understand so that you maintain your credit score, while taking advantage of the credit card benefits. One of the more important ones is to always pay at least the minimum amount due on time.
• When you are issued your credit card, it will have an expiration date. The credit card expiration date is usually three to five years after being issued. You can find the expiration date on the credit card itself. After the card expires, the issuer will usually give you a new card, as long as your account is still active.
• However, what happens if you don’t use your credit card is that the issuer may close your account. So make sure you are using your credit card.
• Also, make sure you are using your credit card responsibly. That means keeping an eye on your credit limit, your credit utilization ratio, and when your payments are due.
Recommended: What Is a Credit Card Expiration Date?
The Takeaway
How often you should apply for a credit card will depend on a variety of factors, like your credit history, the card issuer, the current offers available, and more. It can be wise to not apply for new credit cards more often than every six months. And once you have a new credit card, make sure to use it responsibly.
Whether you’re looking to build credit, apply for a new credit card, or save money with the cards you have, it’s important to understand the options that are best for you. Learn more about credit cards by exploring this credit card guide.
FAQ
How long should I wait to apply for another credit card after being approved?
Some financial experts recommend waiting at least six months between credit card applications. However, there is no hard and fast rule about how often to apply for a credit card. It will vary depending on your credit score and the restrictions from the card issuer.
Do I have to wait six months to apply for another credit card?
Waiting six months between credit card applications is not a defined requirement. If you have poor credit, you may need to wait longer than six months between applications to maximize your chances of getting approved for a new credit card. If you have excellent credit, you can probably apply for a new card more often, like every three months.
How often can I apply for a credit card without hurting my credit?
Each credit card application results in a hard inquiry, which hurts your credit score temporarily. Keep that fact in mind as you consider applying.
Photo credit: iStock/Eva-Katalin
Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances.
Disclaimer: Many factors affect your credit scores and the interest rates you may receive. SoFi is not a Credit Repair Organization as defined under federal or state law, including the Credit Repair Organizations Act. SoFi does not provide “credit repair” services or advice or assistance regarding “rebuilding” or “improving” your credit record, credit history, or credit rating. For details, see the FTC’s website .
Third-Party Brand Mentions: No brands, products, or companies mentioned are affiliated with SoFi, nor do they endorse or sponsor this article. Third-party trademarks referenced herein are property of their respective owners.
Our goal here at Credible Operations, Inc., NMLS Number 1681276, referred to as “Credible” below, is to give you the tools and confidence you need to improve your finances. Although we do promote products from our partner lenders who compensate us for our services, all opinions are our own.
Home equity loan
Home equity line of credit (HELOC)
Interest rate
Fixed
Variable
Monthly payment amount
Fixed
Variable
Closing costs and fees
Yes
Yes, might be lower than other loan types
Repayment period
Typically 5-30 years
Typically 10-20 years
FAQ
What is a rate lock?
Interest rates on mortgages fluctuate all the time, but a rate lock allows you to lock in your current rate for a set amount of time. This ensures you get the rate you want as you complete the homebuying process.
What are mortgage points?
Mortgage points are a type of prepaid interest that you can pay upfront — often as part of your closing costs — for a lower overall interest rate. This can lower your APR and monthly payments.
What are closing costs?
Closing costs are the fees you, as the buyer, need to pay before getting a loan. Common fees include attorney fees, home appraisal fees, origination fees, and application fees.
If you’re trying to find the right mortgage rate, consider using Credible. You can use Credible’s free online tool to easily compare multiple lenders and see prequalified rates in just a few minutes.
You’ve spent weeks preparing paperwork for your mortgage application. Now that you’re pre-approved for a loan, it’s time to talk numbers.
At first glance of the document detailing the breakdown of your monthly mortgage payments, the term PMI catches your eye. It’s a little over $100 per month, and you’re not sure what it’s for.
From what you’ve read, it’s standard on loans if the borrower puts little or no money down. But before you panic, take a deep breath and read on to learn more about PMI and how it works.
What is private mortgage insurance (PMI)?
What happens when your down payment is less than 20% of the cost of your new home? You may get approved for a mortgage loan. However, you pose more risk to the mortgage lender since you’re starting with no equity in your home. And if you fall behind on monthly payments and the lender forecloses on the home, they could stand to lose on the sale.
But the down payment of 20% is a way to create instant home equity. It also provides a layer of protection for the lender if they have to sell at a discounted price to recoup losses.
So, how does the lender protect themselves if you make little to no down payment? That’s where private mortgage insurance (PMI) comes in.
PMI is a type of mortgage insurance that protects the lender from taking a loss if you default on the loan. If the lender is unable to recover the outstanding balance of the loan from the sale, PMI will kick in and pay the difference. PMI is not to be confused with homeowners insurance, which protects you against damage to your property.
Who pays for private mortgage insurance?
This protection comes at a cost to borrowers. But it allows those with a down payment of less than 20% to buy the home of their dreams. It also minimizes risk, so lenders can extend these types of mortgage loans to consumers.
Does it cover private and public lenders?
PMI is only available to private lenders. Government agencies and other public lenders have their own form of mortgage insurance.
When is private mortgage insurance required?
Mortgage lenders use the loan-to-value (LTV) ratio to determine whether a borrower has to pay PMI. Typically, you’ll only have to pay PMI premiums if your loan-to-value ratio exceeds 80%. To calculate the mortgage LTV, the lender divides the mortgage amount by the home value.
Other circumstances may cause the lender to require PMI coverage. This includes past foreclosures, a less-than-perfect credit score, or other factors the lender thinks will increase your chances of defaulting on the loan.
A few scenarios:
SCENARIO 1
SCENARIO 2
SCENARIO 3
Home Value [1]
$100,000
$200,000
$250,000
Down Payment
$10,000
$50,000
$25,000
Mortgage Amount
$90,000
$50,000
$25,000
Loan to Value Ratio
90%
75%
90%
PMI Required
Yes
No [2]
Yes
[1]: Equivalent to sales price at the time of purchase [2]: This may change if the lender determines the borrower is riskier than normal
Private Mortgage Insurance vs. Mortgage Insurance Premiums
As mentioned earlier, mortgage insurance comes in a few variations:
Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI): protects private lenders who offer conventional loans. There are two types of PMI for conventional loans: borrower-paid mortgage insurance and lender-paid mortgage insurance. In most instances, PMI only applies until your LTV reaches 80%. But there are situations where the lender will require a higher percentage for the coverage to be lifted from the loan.
Mortgage Insurance Premium (MIP): protects government-backed VA loans and FHA loans. You pay a portion of the premium at the close of a VA loan or FHA loan. Then, you continue to pay mortgage insurance premiums on a monthly basis for the life of the loan, even once LTV is below 80%.
The LTV ratio is computed in the same manner for both private and government-backed mortgage products.
How much does PMI cost?
Premiums vary by loan. On average, you can expect to pay between 0.5 and 1% of the loan amount annually. So, if your mortgage is $350,000 and the PMI rate is 0.8%, your annual premiums will be around $2,800, or $233.33 per month.
The insurer will analyze your profile, including your credit score and down payment, to determine your interest rate.
The type of mortgage could also impact your premium. For example, if you take out an Adjustable Rate Mortgage (ARM) with floating interest, your premium may be higher. Why so? If the interest rate increases, your monthly mortgage payment will rise. And there’s a possibility you’ll default on the loan.
The condition of the real estate market in your area could also impact your PMI premiums. If projections state home values will plummet in the future, your premiums may be higher. This is due to the likelihood of you walking away once you’re upside-down on the loan.
How are PMI premiums paid?
There are three ways to make PMI premium payments:
Borrower-Paid PMI: Most mortgage lenders make it easy to manage premiums by rolling the monthly obligation into the amount you already pay for your home. This is the method used by most borrowers.
Single Premium PMI: You can also make a single lump-sum payment at the start of the loan by paying cash or rolling sum of the premiums into the loan.
Lender Paid PMI: If you wish to lower the monthly mortgage payment, Lender Paid PMI is also an option. The lender will pay premiums on your behalf. But keep in mind that the costs will be recouped in interest. And premiums don’t automatically go away when the mortgage LTV reaches 80%.
How to Avoid Paying Private Mortgage Insurance
The easiest way to avoid paying PMI is by making a larger down payment. If you can’t afford to put 20% down, it reduces your LTV ratio. Plus, you’ll be able to drop coverage quicker.
1. Take out a second mortgage or piggyback loan
To use this strategy effectively, you’ll need to take out a mortgage for the home’s purchase price, minus 20%. The remaining loan balance, minus the down payment, is then rolled into a second mortgage or piggyback loan.
So, if you buy a home for $200,000 and make a down payment of $15,000, the first mortgage will amount to $160,000. The second mortgage will amount to $25,000 since you are making a down payment of $15,000.
With this method, you avoid PMI since the LTV ratio on the first mortgage is 80%. But keep in mind that a second mortgage comes with a higher interest rate. So, you’ll want to pay it off sooner than later to avoid spending a fortune in interest.
2. Monitor the loan-to-value ratio
When you took out the mortgage loan, your lender used the home’s purchase price to determine the LTV ratio. However, an increase in the market value of your home could mean you are no longer obligated to pay for PMI.
By law, under the Homeowner’s Protection Act, PMI has to come off once the outstanding principal reaches 78% of the original loan amount.
Prepare to provide a professional appraisal to the lender to substantiate your claim. You may spend a few hundred dollars to get it done, but the cost savings will be worth it.
3. Request PMI Cancellation
If you’re nearing the 80% mark, the lender may be willing to remove the PMI from your loan. However, there’s also a possibility that you’ve already met some other criteria that warrant a request to cancel PMI coverage.
4. Refinance your mortgage
Perhaps your credit score was in shambles, and you were forced to take out a government-backed loan that requires you to carry PMI for the duration of the loan. Or maybe you got stuck with a conventional loan from a private lender that requires PMI until the LTV ratio reaches 70%.
Either way, refinancing your loan with laxer PMI restrictions may be a better option. But be sure to run the numbers to confirm that the new loan will not cost you more over time. (Remember, extending or resetting the loan term allows the lender more time to collect interest from you).
5. Shop for a loan that doesn’t require PMI
Compare loan programs to find one that doesn’t require PMI. For example, VA loans don’t require PMI, which can save you a bundle. Additionally, explore loans insured by the Federal Housing Administration (FHA) or the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). Both of them offer programs designed to make homeownership more accessible to low- and moderate-income buyers.
Some lenders also offer mortgage products that allow you to make a small down payment and not have to pay for PMI. Bank of America’s “Affordable Loan Solution” mortgage product is a great example.
6. Ask about exemptions
If you’re a physician or veteran, you could also be exempt from PMI, even if you don’t put down 20%. Ask your lender for more details to determine if you qualify.
7. Consult the lender
Still no luck? Reach out to the lender to inquire about other ways to stop paying PMI. They may know of tips and tricks on how to get rid of PMI that may not be obvious to the average borrower.
Finally, if you still have questions or don’t understand how mortgage insurance works, seek clarification before signing on the dotted line. That way, you won’t be in for any surprises later on down the line.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is private mortgage insurance required?
PMI is typically required when a borrower makes a down payment of less than 20% of the purchase price of the home.
How much does private mortgage insurance cost?
The cost of PMI can vary depending on the size of the loan and the down payment amount. Generally, the cost of PMI is between 0.5% and 1.5% of the loan amount.
How long do I have to pay PMI?
Generally, PMI is required until the loan-to-value ratio (LTV) reaches 78%. Once the LTV reaches 78%, the lender must automatically cancel the PMI.
How can I avoid PMI?
Borrowers can avoid PMI by making a down payment of at least 20% of the purchase price of the home. Additionally, some lenders offer programs that allow borrowers to put down less than 20% and still avoid PMI.
What if I want to cancel my PMI?
Borrowers can request to cancel their PMI once their loan-to-value ratio (LTV) reaches 80%. The lender may require proof that the LTV has reached 80% before canceling the PMI.
Can I deduct PMI on my taxes?
PMI is not tax-deductible as of 2019. However, borrowers may be able to deduct the interest portion of their mortgage payments, which may include PMI.
Getting the most money possible when selling your car isn’t as difficult as it once was. The internet allows you to reach a wider audience and increase your odds of finding a buyer willing to pay more — whether selling to an individual, online-only auto retailer or traditional dealership.
When choosing where to sell your car, the decision comes down to whether your top priority is convenience and speed or getting the highest sales price. If your main objective is getting the most money, expect to spend a little more time in your endeavor.
Here are steps to help you get the most money for your car, from prepping for the sale to selecting the best sales platform.
Preparing to sell your car
Before presenting your car for sale, there are some preliminary steps to take. These can vary depending on where and how you intend to sell it.
Know your car’s fair market value
Regardless of where you sell your car, research what dollar amount you can realistically expect to receive. Online valuation sites like Edmunds or Kelley Blue Book show average prices paid to buy a vehicle like yours from individual sellers or dealerships in your area. Providing your vehicle identification number (VIN) or license plate number, as opposed to just entering the make and model, will give you a more accurate value.
Have a price range that you’ll accept in mind. That way you can be prepared to set your asking price at the high end if you create your own listing. And, you’ll know a realistic bottom line if a potential buyer wants to negotiate or a dealership makes you an offer.
Invest time to present your car in its best light
Clean your car inside and out, and have this done professionally if possible to remove any odors or stains. You may also want to clean the engine bay and make any minor repairs, such as restoring cloudy headlights. Your car’s appearance can be very important in convincing a potential buyer (or dealer) that the vehicle is well-maintained and worth more.
Also, gather maintenance records as proof that your car has been taken care of and is less likely to have mechanical problems.
Create a detailed description of your car
This step is needed only if you plan to list your car on sites that sell to private parties. Write a description that shows and tells potential buyers why your car is worth the price you’re asking. Take quality photos from all angles, and write a description highlighting selling points like low mileage, upgrades or any remaining transferable warranty.
Choosing where to sell your car
A lot has changed since the days of selling your car by putting a “for sale” sign in its window, a flyer in the supermarket or a classified ad in the local newspaper. While those are still options, you have a wide range of other possibilities available, too.
Here we focus on the three main avenues for selling a car — selling to an individual, to an online-only retailer or to a traditional dealership. Some websites enable you to use more than one approach, for example getting both private party and dealer offers for your car.
We’ll start with the option that typically results in car sellers receiving the highest prices.
Sell your car to an individual or private party
Selling your car to an individual, also called a private-party sale, is typically where you can get the most money. However, it can also be more time-consuming and come with added risk.
You can use traditional ways of letting people know your car is available, like word of mouth. But you can reach a bigger audience by listing your car on online private sales sites — like Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, Autotrader or eBay Motors.
While you can make the most selling your car privately, that amount could be reduced slightly by certain expenses. Some private sale sites let you list a car for free while others charge a fee, so consider what you’ll be paying. For example, Autotrader charges $49 for a listing, but this fee also includes a Kelley Blue Book listing and a free vehicle history report for possible buyers. Remember to take into account whether you could have travel or transport expenses to get your car to someone who doesn’t live near you.
Also, be wary of scams when selling your car to an individual, which could be the difference between receiving the most money for your car or not receiving payment at all. Scammers can fake just about every form of payment — including cash, cashier’s checks and certified checks. If your buyer is local, you could meet at that person’s bank to ensure the cash or check is legitimate.
If the buyer isn’t local, using an escrow company — a third party that holds your car title until payment is confirmed — is a good option. But beware that escrow companies can be fake, too. To avoid escrow fraud, don’t use a company suggested by the buyer. Take time to identify a legitimate escrow service, such as a local bank or attorney, or a well-known online service. AutoTrader offers escrow services when you sell through its site, but expect to pay the greater of $49 or 0.99% of the car’s selling price.
Sell to an online used car retailer
Selling your car directly to an online-only car retailer, like CarMax, Carvana or NerdWallet’s own Automotive Marketplace, provides a middle ground. The nonnegotiable offer you receive is likely to be less than what you could get from an individual buyer. However, it’s typically quite a bit more than you would get from a traditional dealership.
Online auto retailers provide an easy way to submit your vehicle information online, receive an immediate offer and in some cases even have your car picked up. At pick-up, you’ll most likely have a check handed to you, or you may receive payment into your bank account via direct deposit or wire transfer. You won’t have to worry about scammers or a possibly drawn-out process of fielding inquiries from strangers.
Online retailers do have vehicle requirements. For example, Carvana only buys cars that are model year 1992 or newer, have a working odometer and are safe to drive. However, if your vehicle doesn’t meet such requirements, you may have options to sell to companies like Peddle and NerdWallet Automotive Marketplace that accept older and damaged vehicles.
Sell to a traditional car dealership
Selling your car to a nearby used car lot may be convenient, but it’s usually where you’ll get the least amount of money. Brick-and-mortar dealerships have overhead business expenses that individuals and online retailers don’t, so dealer offers are commonly the least competitive.
Occasionally a dealer might beat other offers, especially if you’re selling an in-demand car that the dealer needs in inventory, but that isn’t the norm. And, it’s up to you to provide other, higher offers for the dealer to beat.
One way to do this is to get offers from online-only retailers, then ask the traditional dealership if it can do better. Another option is to get and compare offers from many dealers through companies like Cars.com, CarGurus and TrueCar, where you can request bids from local dealers or a network of dealerships.
🤓Nerdy Tip
If you’re buying a car from a dealer and trading in your old one, expect the trade-in value to be less than what you could get selling the car yourself. But you may pay less in taxes, since most states charge sales tax on the difference between the trade-in value and new-car price.
Getting more offers can mean more money
Whether you decide to sell your car privately, through an online retailer or at a local dealership — or in some combination of the three — it’s a good idea to cast a wide net. Unless you’re paying to list on a private sale site, it won’t cost you anything to seek offers from multiple sources.
For example, offers from sites like CarMax and Carvana can vary by thousands of dollars, and one doesn’t consistently pay more than the other. So why not get offers from both, along with several other sites? It’s a small investment of time to find the highest offer and make the most possible when selling your car.
Ready to make your money work for you? Before you jump in and start investing, take the time to learn about brokerage accounts first. After all, in most cases, a brokerage account is the best way to actively manage your investments.
To help you make an informed decision and open a brokerage account, we’ve compiled a comprehensive guide covering everything from fees to plan for your investments. So, take a few moments to equip yourself with all the answers to your burning investment questions, and you’ll be on your way to financial freedom!
How does a brokerage account work?
A brokerage account allows you to purchase and sell stocks and funds through a digital platform. You can generally deposit funds with cash or check and pay a pre-defined commission to your broker.
The fee you pay fluctuates according to the service you get and the level of automation provided by your chosen platform. Unlike a savings account where you gain a consistent interest rate on your deposits, a brokerage account earns (or sustains losses) depending on the performance of your chosen investments.
Although there is more risk involved, you are likely to reap higher profits than a low-interest savings account. However, if you have a strong appetite for risk, particularly if you are aiming for long-term investment, then considering a brokerage account as part of your savings portfolio might be viable.
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Types of Brokerage Accounts
When it comes to investing, there are a variety of brokerage accounts available to select from, each tailored to suit your individual investment objectives and risk appetite. Some common types of brokerage accounts include:
Individual brokerage account: An individual brokerage account is a standard taxable account that is held in the name of a single investor, allowing them to purchase and sell securities such as stocks, bonds, mutual funds, and ETFs.
Joint brokerage account: For those who wish to invest together, a joint brokerage account is an option, held in the names of two or more individuals, such as married couples or business partners.
Retirement account: Retirement accounts are specifically tailored to helping investors save for retirement, offering certain tax advantages that can help their savings grow in the long term, including traditional IRAs, Roth IRAs, SEP IRAs, and 401(k)s.
Trust account: Trust accounts are also available, set up to hold assets for a third party, like a minor or estate beneficiary. These can be revocable or irrevocable trusts.
Business brokerage account: Business brokerage accounts are set up to buy and sell securities on behalf of a business, such as a small business or startup looking to invest their cash reserves or raise capital.
Custodial account: Custodial accounts are designed for minors, often set up by a parent or guardian to save for a child’s education or other expenses, such as a 529 savings plan.
What can you invest in with a brokerage account?
There are actually a wide variety of options available. You may want to pick one type to start with, or you could choose several to diversify your portfolio. Perhaps the most familiar type of investment is a common stock, in which you essentially purchase shares of a specific company.
If you work for a large public company, you might receive shares as part of your compensation package. Or you can choose from any of the companies listed in the stock market, ranging from behemoths like Facebook to successful small niche companies. On top of common stocks, you can also add the following to your brokerage account:
Preferred stocks
Corporate or sovereign bonds
Real estate investment trusts (REITs)
Stock options
Certificates of deposit (CDs)
Money market accounts (MMAs)
Exchange-traded funds (ETFs)
Mutual funds
Master limited partnerships (MLPs)
What should you consider when picking an online broker?
When opening an online brokerage account, the first thing to consider is whether you want a full-service or discount broker. Full-service brokerage accounts invariably comes with higher fees. But the upside is that you get a financial advisor who is dedicated to your investment account. You can discuss your financial situation and future monetary goals with your financial advisor and build an ongoing relationship.
With a managed brokerage account, financial advisors perform trades for you based on your financial goals and risk appetite. If you have questions or concerns, you can directly communicate with your broker by phone, email, or even an in-person meeting. You’re likely to pay commissions that are higher than those of a discount broker, but you have access to a seasoned professional at all times.
Discount Brokerage Firms
Discount brokerage firms, on the other hand, typically operate solely online. You execute all of your own trades in a truly do-it-yourself fashion. The advantage is that you can save lots of money. The disadvantage is that you have to rely solely on your own market research to develop your portfolio, and can cost yourself money by making mistakes out of sheer inexperience.
Still, if you want to be hands-on with your investments, online discount brokers make the stock market accessible — and affordable — in a way it has never been before. Here are a few other things to think about when choosing your brokerage firm.
Costs
There are typically two types of costs associated with an online brokerage account. The first is a commission fee, which can range anywhere between $5 and $10 for each trade you make. These fees usually apply to stocks and options, and sometimes ETFs, plus transaction fees for mutual funds.
Trading Fees
However, some online brokerage accounts offer fee-free trades for ETFs and mutual funds. If either of those is a large part of your investment strategy, you may benefit from choosing a brokerage that doesn’t charge any fees for those.
Brokerage Account Fees
The second cost you’ll come across is various potential account fees. These can include an annual fee for maintaining your brokerage account, inactivity fees, and research and data fees for information provided by your broker.
Withdrawal & Transfer Fees
You may also incur fees for withdrawing or transferring your funds. Think about how often you plan to trade and what resources you want access to when assessing the value of these fees at different companies. If your annual fee is high, but you’ll save money on lower trading fees, it might be worth it.
Similarly, if you don’t intend to trade very frequently, you might want to find a brokerage firm with low or no inactivity fees. Be sure to do a full review of all costs involved to make sure you get the best value across the board for your specific needs. Otherwise, your trades could end up costing you money over time, rather than earning you money.
Account Balance
Another factor to consider when choosing a brokerage account is how much money you initially plan to invest. Some online brokerages have a minimum amount just to get started, often requiring at least a few thousand dollars. Others don’t have any minimum requirements. In either case, you may notice varying fees depending on how much you invest.
For example, you may receive a discount by meeting a certain deposit threshold. In those cases, it also means you’ll end up paying more if you have a lower account balance. Carefully consider how much you intend to invest and where you receive the best perks for that amount.
Customer Service
In addition to research and data made available online (and often resulting in fees), consider what type of personal service you receive. Would you like an annual check-in with a real financial advisor? Do you prefer 24/7 email or chat support? Or do you need something more hands-on?
Just as the level of service varies between full-service brokers and discount brokers, you’ll see a difference even among different online brokers. Pay attention to your needs, and don’t be afraid to change your brokerage account further down the road if you feel you need more or less attention.
Cash Account vs. Margin Account
Yet another breakdown in types of brokerage accounts is a cash account versus a margin account. So, what’s the difference? A cash account is extremely straightforward: you simply trade with the exact amount of funds currently available in your account. This can be relatively restrictive for a couple of different reasons.
First, cash used to purchase new stocks must be settled in your brokerage account, so if a previous transaction is still pending, you can’t use that money for a new trade. Second, you can’t make any withdrawals from a cash account until the money is fully settled.
Trading on Margin
A margin account essentially allows you to borrow money from your brokerage firm to cover short-term capital needs. The advantage is that it gives you a bit more flexibility in making time-sensitive trades.
One of the disadvantages is that you’ll have to pay a margin rate, which serves as interest on the short-term loan. Additionally, you may need to place a higher account minimum to compensate for the risk of the broker potentially losing money.
You can potentially qualify for a lower margin rate by permitting rehypothecation, which allows brokerage firms to reuse your collateral for their own purposes. Clearly, this brings additional risk to your portfolio.
If you’re a beginning investor, it’s probably wise to stick to straightforward cash trading. As you become more comfortable and active with the trading process, you can begin exploring the intricacies of margin trading with your broker.
How to Open a Brokerage Account
Opening a brokerage account isn’t terribly difficult and just requires a few pieces of personal information and, of course, money. When you’re ready to get started, gather basic materials such as your Social Security number or tax ID number, driver’s license, date of birth, and contact information.
You’ll also need employment and income information, including your employer, annual income (usually submitted using a W9 form), and your net worth. Assuming this information is easy for you to pull together, the process is both quick and easy, especially if you opt to open a brokerage account online.
You’ll also need cash to open a brokerage account. You cannot use a credit card to deposit funds. Instead, you’ll likely need to perform an electronic funds transfer from your bank account.
Keep a paper check on hand to facilitate the transfer. This process can take anywhere between a few days and a week so that the money can be verified. Once the funds hit your brokerage account, you can get started trading!
Should you use a brokerage account for retirement funds?
This is a very personal question which depends upon your retirement savings goals. First, it’s critical to take advantage of any employer-sponsored retirement accounts like a 401(k), especially if you receive a company match for your contributions. Then, consider contributing to a tax-advantaged retirement account like a Roth IRA.
There are limits on how much you can contribute each year, but you do both to enjoy different tax advantages. For example, a traditional IRA is not taxed until you begin withdrawing, making your annual contributions tax-deductible. Roth IRA contributions, on the other hand, are taxed when you make them.
The upside is that you don’t pay taxes when you start to withdraw, potentially saving you money during your retirement. If you’ve maxed out an appropriate amount of these account types, you might consider supplementing your retirement savings with a brokerage account.
Before you do, consider a few things. First, the earnings you make on selling investments are taxable, usually as capital gains tax. You’ll also want to review the amount of risk in your portfolio as you approach retirement age. Remember to review your holdings regularly, especially if you’re not a frequent trader.
Getting Started
With so many options available for brokerage accounts today, investing is more accessible — and affordable — than ever before. If you’re just beginning to get your feet wet, start by investing just a small amount of money to help you learn through rookie mistakes. Then you can grow into more sophisticated trading methods as you learn the full potential of your brokerage account.
Alternatively, you can switch to a more service-oriented account to take the day-to-day trading out of your hands. The options are quite limitless when it comes to managing a brokerage account.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are brokerage accounts insured?
The Securities Investor Protection Corporation (SIPC) offers insurance for cash and securities held in a brokerage account should the brokerage fail, though this coverage only extends to the custodial function of the brokerage. Unfortunately, it does not extend to losses resulting from inadequate investment decisions or drops in the value of investments.
In addition, SIPC guarantees up to $500,000 per customer, with a $250,000 cap on cash. However, keep in mind that SIPC insurance does not shield against market losses or other dangers associated with investing.
Which brokerage account is the most suitable for beginners?
When selecting a brokerage account as a novice investor, there are a host of factors to consider, including the kind of investment products you have your eye on, fees and commissions, user-friendliness, and customer service. Here are some of the options you may want to think about:
Robinhood: For those wishing to begin investing without incurring too many costs, Robinhood may be a good choice; it offers commission-free trading for numerous popular stocks and ETFs. However, it should be noted that Robinhood does not provide the same features as more traditional brokerage firms, such as access to research and investment advice.
E*TRADE: E*TRADE is a much-revered brokerage firm that provides a vast selection of investment products, including stocks, ETFs, mutual funds, and options. The platform also provides access to educational materials and investment guidance, as well as a navigable platform with a wide range of tools and resources for rookies. That being said, E*TRADE does impose commissions on some trades and, as such, may not be suitable for those looking to make numerous trades.
Charles Schwab: Charles Schwab is yet another highly regarded brokerage firm that offers various investment products and a user-friendly platform, and it boasts a plethora of resources and tools for novice investors, such as educational materials and investment guidance. Although it does charge commissions for certain trades, Charles Schwab does offer commission-free trading for certain ETFs.
At the end of the day, the best brokerage account for a beginner depends on their individual needs and objectives. Hence, it is advisable to shop around and compare the fees, commissions, and features of different brokerage firms before choosing.
How old do you have to be to open a brokerage account?
In the United States, you must be at least 18 to open a brokerage account in your own name. However, some brokerage firms may require a Social Security number or tax identification number to proceed.
If this applies to you, and you are under 18, it may still be possible to open an account with the help of a parent or guardian. A few brokerage firms offer custodial accounts, which are held in the name of minors, but managed by adults.
How much do you need to open a brokerage account?
The amount of capital required to start a brokerage account differs depending on the broker and type of account. Some brokers may require a minimum of $500 or $1,000 to open a regular account, while others may not have any minimum balance requirement. It all depends on the institution and the account you select.
What is a taxable brokerage account?
A taxable brokerage account is a type of investment account funded with after-tax dollars, meaning the money you put in has already been taxed at your marginal tax rate. Capital gains tax is typically assessed on the profits you make when you sell an asset for more than you paid for it, and is based on how long you hold the asset.
If held for a year or less, short-term capital gains are taxed at your ordinary income tax rate; if held for more than a year, the profits are considered long-term capital gains and are taxed at a lower rate.
Additionally, any dividends or interest earned from your investments in the account are considered taxable income, and must be reported and taxed accordingly. To ensure you make the most informed decisions and minimize your tax liability, consult a financial professional or tax advisor before investing.
A lower credit score doesn’t necessarily mean a lender will deny you a home equity loan. It does mean the loan will be more expensive, as you won’t get the lowest interest rate.
It’s possible to get a home equity loan with a fair credit score — as low as 620 — as long as other requirements around debt, equity and income are met.
Strategies for getting a loan despite your bad credit include taking on a co-signer, applying to a place where you currently bank, and writing a letter of explanation to the lender.
Alternatives to a home equity loan include personal loans, cash-out refinances, reverse mortgages and shared equity agreements.
Can you get a home equity loan with bad credit?
Yes, you can. A lower credit score doesn’t necessarily mean a lender will deny you a home equity loan. Some home equity lenders allow for FICO scores in the “fair” range (the lower 600s) as long as you meet other requirements around debt, equity and income.
That’s not to say it’ll be easy: Lenders tend to be stringent, even more so than they are with mortgages. Still, it’s not impossible. Here’s how to get a home equity loan (even) with bad credit.
Requirements for home equity loans
Not all home equity lenders have the exact same borrowing criteria, of course. Still, general guidelines do exist. Typical requirements for home equity loan applicants include:
A minimum credit score of 620
At least 15 percent to 20 percent equity in your home
A maximum debt-to-income (DTI) ratio of 43 percent, or up to 50 percent in some cases
On-time mortgage payment history
Stable employment and income
To learn the requirements for a home equity loan with a specific lender, you’ll need to do some research online or contact a loan officer directly. If you aren’t ready to apply for the loan just yet, ask for a no-credit check prequalification to avoid having the loan inquiry affect your credit score.
What are “good” and “bad” scores for home equity loans?
First, let’s define our terms. Here’s how FICO — the most popular credit scoring model — categorizes different scores:
Score
Classification
Source: MyFico.com
300-579
Poor
580-669
Fair
670-739
Good
740-799
Very Good
800-850
Excellent
When it comes to home equity loans, lenders set a high bar for creditworthiness — higher, even, than mortgages. That’s because they are considered riskier than mortgages: You, the applicant, are already carrying a big debt load. Should you default and your home get seized, the home equity loan — as a “second lien” — only gets paid after the primary (the original) mortgage.
Furthermore, home equity loans don’t have government backing, like some mortgages do. The lender bears all the risk.
So home equity lenders set stricter criteria, demanding scores squarely in the “fair” range. A score in the 500s – good enough for an FHA mortgage — will have a tough time qualifying for a home equity loan. Some lenders have loosened their standards of late and are approving applicants with scores as low as 620. But a “good” score, preferably above 700, remains the threshold for many institutions. It can vary even within one lender, depending on factors like the loan amount or other loan terms.
And of course — as with any loan — the lower your credit score, the less likely you will qualify for the best interest rates.
How to apply for a bad credit home equity loan
Before applying for a home equity loan, remember that it’s not just a question of getting the financing, but also how you can overcome a lower credit score to get the best possible rate. Here are some steps to take:
1. Check your credit report
While it’s possible to get a home equity loan with bad credit, it’s still wise to do all you can to improve your score before you apply (more on that below). A better credit score gets you a better rate. It can also help you get a bigger loan (up to the tappable amount of your equity, of course).
Check your credit reports at AnnualCreditReport.com to get a sense of where you stand. If there are any errors, like incorrect contact information, contact the credit bureau — Equifax, Experian or TransUnion — to get it updated as soon as possible.
2. Determine your equity level
To qualify for a home equity loan, lenders typically require at least 15 percent or 20 percent equity. The amount of equity you have, your home’s appraised value and combined loan-to-value (CLTV) ratio help determine how much you can borrow.
Home Equity
Bankrate’s home equity loan calculator can quickly estimate your potential home equity loan amount.
To estimate your home’s equity, take the value of your home and subtract the balance left on your mortgage. While lenders will only consider the official appraised value of your home when determining how much you can borrow, you can get an idea of your home’s value through Bankrate or a real estate listing portal or brokerage. Let’s say your home is worth $420,000 and you have $250,000 to pay on your mortgage:
$420,000 – $250,000 = $170,000
In this example, you’d have $170,000 in home equity. That doesn’t mean you can borrow $170,000, however. If the lender requires you to maintain at least 20 percent equity, you’d need to preserve $84,000 ($420,000 * 0.20). That leaves you with a home equity loan of up to $86,000 ($170,000 – $84,000).
Say you want to add a $60,000 home equity loan to the mix. That would increase your total mortgage debt — for both your first mortgage and the home equity loan — from $250,000 to $310,000.
That 20 percent equity requirement also means you’d need a CLTV ratio of 80 percent or lower. To calculate your CLTV ratio, divide the total mortgage debt ($310,000) by the value of your home ($420,000):
($250,000 + $60,000) / $420,000 = 73.8%
In this example, you’d be under the lender’s 80 percent CLTV requirement.
3. Find out your DTI ratio
The DTI ratio is a measure lenders use to determine whether you can reasonably afford to take on more debt. To calculate your DTI ratio, simply divide your monthly debt payments by your gross monthly income. For example, say you bring in $6,000 a month in income and have a $2,200 monthly mortgage payment and a $110 monthly student loan payment:
$2,310 / $6,000 x 100 = 38.5%
To make things even easier, you can use Bankrate’s DTI calculator.
For a home equity loan, most lenders look for a DTI ratio of no more than 43 percent.
4. Consider a co-signer
If your credit disqualifies you for a home equity loan, a co-signer with better credit might be able to help, in some cases.
“A co-signer can help with credit and income issues for an applicant who has a lower credit score, but ultimately the main applicant or primary borrower will have to have at least the bare minimum credit score that is required based on the bank’s underwriting guidelines,” says Ralph DiBugnara, president of Home Qualified, a real estate platform for buyers, sellers and investors.
A co-signer is just as responsible for repaying the loan as the primary borrower, even if they don’t actually intend to make payments. If you fall behind on loan payments, their credit suffers along with yours.
5. Try a lender you already work with
If your bank, credit union or mortgage lender offers home equity products, it might be able to extend some flexibility, or at least help with your application, since you’re an existing customer.
“A loan officer familiar with the details of an applicant’s situation can help them present it to an underwriter in the best possible way,” says DiBugnara.
6. Write a letter to the lender
Write a letter of explanation describing why your credit score is low, especially if it has taken a recent hit. This letter should matter-of-factly explain credit issues — avoid catastrophizing — and include any relevant paperwork, like bankruptcy documentation. If your credit score was impacted by late payments due to job loss, for example, but you’re employed now, your lender can take this context into consideration.
Lenders that offer home equity loans with bad credit
There are home equity lenders that offer loans to borrowers with lower credit scores. Here are some to consider, along with requirements:
Lender
Bankrate Score (scale of 1-5)
Loan types
Credit score minimum
Maximum CLTV
Maximum DTI
Figure
4.37
HELOC
640
75%-90%
Undisclosed
Guaranteed Rate
3.3
HELOC
620
90%-95%
50%
Spring EQ
2.7
Home equity loan, HELOC
620 for home equity loans, 680 for HELOCs
Up to 97.5%
43%
TD Bank
4.0
Home equity loan, HELOC
660
Undisclosed
Undisclosed
Connexus Credit Union
3.5
Home equity loan, HELOC
640
90%
Undisclosed
Discover
4.4
Home equity loan
660
90%
43%
Pros and cons of getting a home equity loan with bad credit
Getting a home equity loan with bad credit has its benefits and drawbacks. You can tap your equity to help with expenses, but it’s also risky.
Pros
You’ll pay a fixed rate: Home equity loans are for a fixed sum at a fixed interest rate, so you’ll know exactly how much your payment is each month. This can help you budget for and reliably pay down debt, which can help boost your credit score.
You could get out of costlier debt: If you have high-interest debt — like credit card debt — you could pay it off with a lower-rate home equity loan, then repay that loan, with one payment, for less.
Cons
You’re taking on more debt: If you’ve had trouble managing money in the past, it might not be wise to take on more debt with a home equity loan, even if you qualify.
It’ll be more expensive: A lower credit score won’t qualify you for the best home equity loan rates, meaning you’ll pay more in interest.
You could lose your home: If you fall behind on loan payments, you’ll further damage your credit. Even worse: If you’re eventually unable to pay back the loan, your home could go into foreclosure.
What to do if your home equity loan application is denied
If your application for a home equity loan is rejected, don’t despair. First, ask the lender for specific reasons why your application was denied. The answer can help you address any issues before applying in the future.
If your credit was one of the deciding factors, you can improve your score by making on-time payments and paying down any outstanding debt. If you don’t have enough equity in your home, wait until you’ve built a bigger stake (mainly by making your monthly mortgage payments) before submitting a new application.
Both these approaches may take a half-year to a year to make a significant difference in your credit profile. If you’re in more of a hurry, consider applying to other lenders, as their criteria may differ. Just bear in mind that more lenient terms often mean higher interest rates or fees.
And of course, you can consider other forms of financing.
Home equity loan alternatives if you have bad credit
If you need cash but have bad credit, a home equity loan is just one option. Here are some alternatives:
Personal loans
Personal loans can be easier to qualify for than a home equity product, and they aren’t tied to your home. This means that if you fail to repay the loan, the lender can’t go after your house. Personal loans have higher interest rates, however, and shorter repayment terms. This translates to a more expensive monthly payment compared to what you might get with a home equity loan.
Cash-out refinance
In a cash-out refinance, you take out a brand-new mortgage for more than what you owe on your existing mortgage, pay off the existing loan and take the difference in cash. Most lenders require you to maintain at least 20 percent equity in your home in order to cash out.
A caveat, however: A cash-out refi makes the most sense when you can qualify for a lower rate than what you have on your current mortgage, and if you can afford the closing costs. With bad credit, getting that lower rate might not be possible.
Reverse mortgage
Reverse mortgages allow homeowners over the age of 62 to tap their home’s equity as a source of tax-free income. These types of loans need to be repaid upon your death or when you move out or sell the home. You can use reverse mortgages for anything from medical expenses to home renovations, but you must meet some requirements to qualify.
Shared equity agreement
Home equity investment companies might work with you even if you have a lower credit score, often lower than what traditional lenders would accept. These companies offer shared equity agreements in which you receive a lump sum in exchange for an ownership percentage in your home and/or its appreciation.
Unlike with home equity lines of credit (HELOCs) or home equity loans, you don’t make monthly repayments in a shared equity arrangement. Some companies wait until you sell your home, then collect what they’re owed; others have multi-year agreements in which you’ll pay the balance in full at the end of a stated period.
Make sure you understand all the terms of this complex arrangement. Technically, you’re not borrowing money, you’re selling a stake in your home — to a financial professional who naturally wants to see a return on their investment.
How to get a HELOC with bad credit
Applying for a HELOC is pretty much the same as applying for a home equity loan, but if you have bad credit, a loan might have a slight edge over the line of credit. That’s because home equity loans have fixed interest rates and fixed payments, so you’ll know exactly what you need to repay each month. This predictability could help you better manage your budget and keep up with payments.
A HELOC, on the other hand, has a variable rate, which can cause unexpected increases in your monthly payments. For this reason, lenders often have higher credit score criteria for HELOCs than home equity loans.
Tips for improving your credit before getting a home equity loan
To increase your chances of getting approved for a home equity loan, work on improving your credit score well before applying — at least several months. Here are three tips to help you improve your score:
Pay bills on time every month. At the very least, make the minimum payment, but try to pay the balance off completely, if possible — and don’t miss that due date.
Don’t close credit cards after you pay them off. Either leave them open or charge just enough to have a small, recurring payment every month. That’s because closing a card reduces your credit utilization ratio, which can decrease your score. The recommended utilization ratio: no more than 30 percent.
Be cautious with new credit. Getting a higher credit limit on a card or getting a new card can lower your credit utilization ratio — but not if you immediately max things out or blow through the bigger balance. Treat the newly available funds as sacred savings.
FAQ on getting a home equity loan with bad credit
In general, it’s better to get a home equity loan with bad credit. A home equity loan often has a lower credit score requirement compared to a HELOC, and it comes with a fixed interest rate, so your payment will be the same every month, making it easier to plan for.
Yes — in fact, this is the rule for any type of loan, including a home equity product. The higher your credit score, the lower your interest rate.
If you’re trying to save some money, trimming some discretionary spending categories from your budget can be a good way to start.
But it isn’t necessarily the only or best way to save — especially if reducing or removing things like streaming services, concerts, or monthly massages from your budget makes it harder to stick to your plan.
Instead, it may make sense to track where your money is going for a few weeks and then take a look at all your spending categories to determine which cuts could have the biggest impact.
What Are Spending Categories?
Spending categories can help you group similar expenses together to better organize your budget. They can come in handy when you’re laying out your spending priorities, deciding how much money to allot toward various wants and needs, and determining whether an expense is essential or nonessential.
Many of the budgets you’ll see online use pretty much the same spending categories, such as housing, transportation, utilities, food, childcare, and entertainment. But you may find it’s more useful to track your spending for a while with a money tracker, and then create some of your own categories. You may choose to drill down to specific bills or go broader, breaking down your budget into just the basics.
By personalizing your spending categories, you may be able to put together a budget that’s more manageable — and, therefore, one you’re more likely to stay with.
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How Do Spending Categories Work?
To customize your spending categories, it can help to gather as much information as possible about where your money is actually going.
You can start by looking at old bank and credit card statements to get a good picture of past spending. Your bigger spending categories should be easier to figure out. Those bills are often due on the same day every month and are usually about the same amount. But you’ll also want to keep an eye out for expenses that come just once or a few times a year (such as taxes, vet bills, etc.). And, if you use cash frequently, you’ll want to determine where that money went, too.
A tracking app can help you grasp the hard truth about your spending as you move forward. That cute plant you bought for your windowsill? Pitching in for a co-worker’s going-away gift? Those little splurges can add up before you know it.
Once your spending picture comes into focus, you can divide your expenses into useful personal budget categories, and start thinking about what you might be able to trim or cut out altogether. 💡 Quick Tip: When you have questions about what you can and can’t afford, a spending tracker app can show you the answer. With no guilt trip or hourly fee.
Examples of Spending Categories
Although it can be effective to organize your spending categories in a way that’s unique to you, there are a few basic classifications that can work for most households when making a budget: They include:
Essential Spending
• Housing: This category could include your rent or mortgage payment, property taxes, homeowners or renters insurance, HOA fees, etc.
• Utilities: You could limit this to basic services like gas, electricity, and water, or you might decide to include your cell phone service, cable, and WiFi costs.
• Food: This amount could be limited to what you spend on groceries every month, or it could include your at-home and away-from-home food costs.
• Transportation: Your car payment could go in this category, along with fuel costs, parking fees, car maintenance, car insurance, public transportation, and DMV fees. You could also include the cost of Uber rides.
• Childcare: If you need childcare while you work, this cost would be considered necessary spending. If it’s for a night out, you may want to move it to the entertainment or personal care category.
• Medical Costs and Health Care: This could include your health insurance premiums, insurance co-pays and prescription costs, vision and dental care, etc.
• Clothing: Clothing is a must-have, of course, but with limits. You may want to put impulse items in a separate category as a nonessential or discretionary expense.
Non-essential Spending
• Travel: This category would be for any travel that isn’t work-related, whether it’s a road trip or a vacation in Paris.
• Entertainment: You could get pretty broad in this category, but anything from streaming services and videogames to concerts and plays could go here.
• Personal: This might be your category for things like salon visits, your gym membership, and clothes and accessories that are more of a want than a need.
• Gifts: If you’re a generous gift-giver, you may find you need a separate category for these expenses.
Other Spending
• Savings and investments: Though it isn’t “essential” for day-to-day life, putting money aside for long- and short-term goals is a must for most budgets.
• Emergency fund: This will be your go-to for unexpected car repairs, home repairs, or medical bills.
• Debt repayment: Student loan payments, credit card debt, and other balances you’re trying to pay off could fit in this category.
Pros and Cons of Spending Categories
The idea of making a budget can be daunting, particularly if you’re trying to fit your needs and wants into spending categories that aren’t suited to how you live. Here are some pros and cons to using categories for spending that might keep you motivated and help you avoid potential budgeting pitfalls.
Pros
• More control: Creating a budget with spending categories that match your lifestyle can help you put your money toward things that really matter to you.
• Less stress: If you’re living paycheck to paycheck even though you know your income is sufficient to cover your needs, a budget with realistic spending categories can help you see where your money is going.
• Better planning: Whether you’re trying to save for a vacation, wedding, house, retirement, or all of the above, including those goals in your spending categories will help ensure they get your attention.
Cons
• May feel limiting: Working with a budget can feel restrictive, especially if you’ve been winging it for a while or aren’t including enough discretionary spending.
• Time consuming: It might take some trial and error to find a budget system that works for you. And if you’re budgeting as a couple, you’ll likely have to work out some compromises when determining your spending categories.
• Requires maintenance: Budgeting isn’t a one and done. You’ll be more likely to succeed if you consistently track your spending to make sure you’re hitting your goals.
Common Spending Categories to Cut First
Often when you see or hear budgeting advice, it tends to focus on cutting back on small extras — $6 daily lattes at your favorite café, for example, or those weekly Happy Meals for the kids. Some other top spending categories that traditionally are among the first to hit the chopping block include:
• Gym memberships
• Dining out
• Subscription services you don’t use anymore
• Cable
• Personal care services you can do at home for less, such as manicures and pedicures
• Alcoholic beverages
• Cigarettes and vaping products
• Vacations
But it can also be useful to review, and potentially cut back on, how much you’re budgeting for basic living expenses, such as:
• Clothing and shoes
• Utility bills
• Groceries
• Insurance
• Cars
• Cellphones and computers
• Rent
Tips for Customizing Your Spending Categories
As you create your spending plan, keep in mind that it doesn’t have to be like anyone else’s. If you track your expenses and use that information to create your personalized budget, you may have a better chance of building a plan you can stick with.
Here are some more steps to consider as you get started:
• Be realistic. It may take a while to get to your goal, but doing even a little bit consistently can make a difference. Know yourself and do what you can.
• Don’t forget irregular expenses. Bills that you pay every month can be easy to remember. (You might even put them on autopay to make things more convenient.) But infrequent expenses such as tax bills can get away from you if you don’t include them in your spending categories.
• Avoid spending more than you have. Knowing how much you’ll have left after taxes each month is an important part of successful planning. An emergency fund can help you stay on track when unexpected expenses pop up.
• Leave room for fun. Eliminating date nights and small splurges completely could make it much harder to stay with your plan.
• Pay yourself. Make saving and investing goals a separate spending category.
• Find a budgeting method that works for you. Whether it’s the popular 50/30/20 budget — which divides your after-tax income into needs, wants, and savings — or a detailed spending breakdown with multiple categories, try various budgeting methods until you find one that motivates you.
💡 Quick Tip: Income, expenses, and life circumstances can change. Consider reviewing your budget a few times a year and making any adjustments if needed.
The Takeaway
Want to save some money but know you need to make some changes? Monitoring where your money is going every month can help you create a spending plan with categories that are customized to your needs, wants, and goals. A plan that’s realistic, but not too restrictive, can give you the kind of control and motivation you need to get and stay on track financially.
Take control of your finances with SoFi. With our financial insights and credit score monitoring tools, you can view all of your accounts in one convenient dashboard. From there, you can see your various balances, spending breakdowns, and credit score. Plus you can easily set up budgets and discover valuable financial insights — all at no cost.
With SoFi, you can keep tabs on how your money comes and goes.
FAQ
What are the four main categories in a budget?
The four main spending categories for most budgets are housing, food, utilities, and transportation. Once you’ve established how much you’ll need to cover these costs, you can move on to planning for other expenses.
What is the 50/30/20 rule of budgeting?
The 50/30/20 rule is a budgeting method that allocates your take-home income to three main spending categories: needs or essentials (50%), wants or nonessentials (30%), and saving or financial goals (20%).
What are the four characteristics of a successful budget?
A successful budget usually includes accurate income and spending projections, realistic and personalized spending categories, consistent and frequent check-ins, and solid savings goals.
Photo credit: iStock/mapodile
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