[Editor’s note: Originally published on Selling Later.]
The industry makes you think new selling services are the problem, but we believe those conversations distract from the bigger issue, and that issue is Gatekeeping.
As a consumer, you think of real estate like this…
Sellers and buyers together, and then selling services, websites, exchanges, and offerings on the other side.
But in our opinion, the reality of buying and selling actually looks like this:
So who, or what, are all these people in the middle? Why aren’t sellers and buyers starting on the same side? Let’s dive in!
Selling Services
There are many ways to sell your home, which in our opinion, is excellent! You have options and should pick whichever service works best for you. The problem is that all of these services are competing against each other for home sellers. Once a service has your information, they don’t want it to get out as they don’t want someone else to steal you as a client.
This especially applies to real estate agents. There are 2 million real estate agents in the US (1.4 million are Realtors). So, not only are real estate agents competing against other selling services, but they are also competing against each other. Most agents only get paid when they close a deal, so they don’t want other agents contacting or having access to their potential client list. We don’t blame agents for being protective of their list because they lose a paycheck if they lose you as a client. This is especially true for newer agents whose paychecks can be infrequent and small for the first year or two.
The problem? These selling services only thrive when they insert themselves into the middle of the process (aka. middlemen). Letting their clients connect directly with each other decreases the chances of them becoming involved in the transaction.
Think of the 2 million agents and hundred’s of selling services that have future sellers and buyers in their databases. Those lists are not shared with others, especially consumers. So while they have access to know of future sellers and buyers, you as the consumer do not.
Special Consumer Notice: We have seen two different companies advertise that they give consumers access to their giant database. As a consumer, you should know that while you might be able to view their “buyer list,” you don’t get to see who they are. You also are not able to contact sellers and buyers directly. These “databases” aren’t new, and every single brokerage has buyers, especially in this market.
In our opinion, these ads are just made to lure buyers and sellers into that specific brokerage’s portal and collect their information. We believe their end goal is to get both sides of the deal, meaning they have one of their agents represent the seller and another one of their agents represent the buyer.
Aggregators
Aggregators are websites that pull some of the MLS information and make it accessible for consumers to view online. In our opinion, this was a big game-changer for consumers, as they are now able to search for homes themselves online. However, these aggregators are essentially lead generation platforms and make a lot of money by selling leads to agents and other services.
The problem? These platforms act as a portal to the MLS but have made a full business model off of collecting and selling your information back to the real estate industry or for their own internal services. Even if the homeowner posts the home, their information could still be sold to others, as could the inquiries.
Referral Platforms
Referral platforms aren’t new but recently have evolved to become the true middlemen of the middlemen (and a billion-dollar business model). We believe these platforms are one reason why commissions have gone down less than 1% since 1992!
These platforms position themselves as “helper” to find you the best agent, or even the best way to buy or sell your home. They typically promote themselves as a free service.
What they really do is lock in your attention and information before you start to find an agent or selling service on your own. They don’t tell you that most referral programs only refer you to agents/services that agree to pay for your information. Sure, some of them vet agents for specific qualifications, but it still comes down to only referring to agents who are willing to pay.
The problem? In our opinion, these platforms want to gatekeep your information for the sole purpose of selling it to someone else. Agents with years of experience and big lists of happy clients aren’t typically found on these platforms. The bigger issue with these referral programs is the lack of transparency in how they work and how they can impact your chance of negotiating your listing commission or asking for a buyer’s rebate (legal in 40 states).
When you get referred to an agent from these platforms, the agent has to agree to give the referral platform a big fee or 25%, 30%, sometimes 35% of their commission earned when you close on a home. That 30%+ is agreed upon when the agent takes you as a client. With that much already gone, usually without the consumer knowing, what is left for them to negotiate? Learn more about referral platforms.
Funnel Services & Kickbacks
This is something that we didn’t know about until we attended a real estate conference (as a consumer).
Once a company has you in their funnel, they don’t want you to shop elsewhere and can place specific companies in front of you for financial gain. Sure, this is business 101 to sell to you while you are already there. However, business 101 is a slippery slope when you are making the biggest purchase or sale of your life. Some home warranty companies, internet services, and even security systems offer kickbacks to brokerages or agents when they sell their specific product.
How do we know this? Because a home warrant company offered us $60 to sell their program to Selling Later members. We said “No way” but it opened our eyes to the kickback system in the industry
This is also why you will see some companies offering additional services like title, insurance, lending (or create a partner service to avoid RESPA violations).
The problem? While you may have thought about buying or selling for a long time, a lot of big decisions are made within the small time frame between when you placed an offer (or accepted an offer) to when you close. Big decisions like inspectors, home warranties, insurance, title companies, etc. are all made within that small time frame. As a consumer, your time to shop around and find the best value or best service is tiny. In our opinion, this is where those kickbacks cause an issue. You have to wonder if this company is referred to you is actually good or because there are kickbacks involved?
Big Data
The amount of data companies collect or purchase is pretty shocking. Beyond the problem of data privacy, the big thing to focus on here is that there are companies out there explicitly analyzing data to predict when you might sell or buy. This information can be packaged up and then sold to agents and lenders as a sales lead.
From tracking mortgage payments and equity and matching that information with the age of your home, these companies specifically watch for signs that you are going to make a move solely to sell you as a lead.
The problem? Beyond the issue of companies profiting from your personal information, this information is not publicly accessible to consumers. Instead, it is sent to the top of the gatekeeping pile (selling services). So, once again, the industry gets alerted to those making a move, but consumers do not.
We hope you are still reading because this is the most important part:
At Selling Later, we believe that consumer connections should come first, and selling services should come second. What does the industry look like if consumers regain control and make the system work best for them, not for other businesses?
Disclaimer: This is an opinion based on our studies of consumer practices in real estate. This isn’t about a specific company, real estate agents, or anyone in particular. Consumers have a right to know about a problem that starts before a consumer is ready to buy or sell and then works itself the whole way down the process.
I must confess to a new habit: I collect discarded ATM receipts. It all started when I walked by the bank in the building next to Motley Fool Intergalactic Headquarters, and found one such receipt blowing in the wind. I was shocked by how little the person had in her/his bank account, and how much she/he paid to get what cash was available.
To see what I mean, check out the stats on seven receipts I’ve recently picked up:
Withdrawal
ATM Fee
Account Balance
$60.00
$3.00
$72.79
$40.00
$0.00
$709.02
$100.00
$3.00
$8,973.53
$400.00
$0.00
$431.31
$20.00
$0.00
$301.73
$20.00
$0.00
$54.92
$20.00
$3.00
$48.04
What comes to your mind when you look at those numbers? Here’s what comes to my mind:
Some people have very small bank accounts. Only one of those accounts is substantial. Of course, this may not be the only bank accounts these people have. But if it is… well, these people are living on the financial edge. I suspect they have other accounts with much bigger balances: their credit card accounts.
Some people are willing to pay a lot to get their cash. Three of these people paid three bucks. In the case of the last person, that $3 ATM fee was 15% of the withdrawal and 4.5% of the entire bank balance.
Some people don’t give a hoot about polluting. I don’t dig through the garbage for these receipts; they all have been thrown on the ground. Some people take the time to rip them up and then throw them on the ground (even though there’s a trash slot under the ATM). I have considered the possibility that the receipts I collect aren’t indicative of banking customers in general but a self-selecting sample — specifically, people who have little regard for their community also have little regard for their own personal finances. Just a theory…
What’s Your Ther-Money-Stat?
Here’s another theory I have: We each have an internal level of financial stasis that involves having a certain amount of money in the bank, a certain level of debt, and a certain amount of each paycheck going to savings — an internal “ther-money-stat,” if you will. If we somehow find ourselves in a better situation than our regular level of financial comfortability, we turn up the spending. Perhaps it’s due to a raise, or a bonus, or an unexpectedly large tax refund. But as historian C. Northcote Parkinson wrote, “Expenses rise to meet income.”
On the flip side, there’s a level at which we freak out. Our financial condition drops below our internal ther-money-stat, and we swear off restaurants, movies, vacations, and anything but the necessities. (By the way, a difference in these internal levels is one of the biggest sources of conflict between couples.)
If I had just a few hundred dollars (or less) in the bank — as is the case for plenty of people, according to the ATM receipts I pick up — I would immediately cancel the cable and the cell phone, turn down the heat and layer up the sweaters, and likely get a second or third job. I would barely be able to sleep with that little in the bank.
Of course, I don’t know the stories behind these receipts, but my guess is that these folks have a much lower ther-money-stat than I do. The question is, can it be changed? Can someone who is willing to pay $3 to withdraw $20 from a $71.04 bank account turn into someone who would not rest until there’s three to six months’ worth of living expenses in an emergency fund?
I think it’s possible; you GRS readers have told us before what got you to become fiscally fit. But I bet it’s not easy.
Season’s Depletings
I suspect that many of us (myself included) tend to get a bit self-righteous when we see evidence of people making bad financial decisions. However, I can’t help — especially at this time of year — to also feel sorry for these low-balance bank customers. There are plenty of people who are experiencing tough times due to no fault of their own. I can even conjure images of parents withdrawing from their measly accounts to buy gifts for their kids. (I’m a sucker for a holiday sob story.)
So whatever the reason for these folks’ modest bank accounts, here’s to hoping that they — and you — have an enjoyable holiday season, and that 2010 brings bigger bank balances to us all.
Remember all those articles (including some on this blog) that claimed mortgage rates would have to rise to X percent in order for homes to become unaffordable?
Well, mortgage rates have been pretty flat for the past several years, and remain amazingly attractive historically, yet home prices have now risen out of reach for many prospective buyers.
What gives? How could this be? Well, they’re unaffordable because home prices have surged.
The Housing Recovery Has Left Many Behind
Half of largest housing markets nationwide are unaffordable
Despite the fact that mortgage rates remain low historically
And while median-priced homes remain affordable
These aren’t the properties that at for sale at the moment
While the housing recovery has been wonderful for those who were able to hang on through the crisis, and those lucky enough to pick up properties on the cheap post-crisis, it has left behind scores of would-be buyers in its wake.
Per a recent analysis from Zillow, mortgage payments are now unaffordable in half of the nation’s 35 largest housing markets, despite those rock-bottom interest rates. Certainly this can’t be good news.
They found that monthly payments for the median-valued U.S. property only require 16% of median income, which is quite affordable.
But here’s the problem – the median-priced home isn’t the one for sale. The homes that are for sale tend to be priced above the median for their particular market.
This isn’t just a feeling you get while perusing inventory online. In all but three of the largest 35 U.S. metros, the median price of homes for sale is higher than the median value of all homes.
In short, it’s mostly expensive homes that are listed these days, not the run-of-the-mill average-priced ones.
You’ve probably heard that starter homes are hard to come by. This is partially because the expected move-up buyers aren’t moving up, thanks to a lack of home equity and a low mortgage rate they don’t want to give up.
So when you actually look at homes listed for sale nationwide, 20% of median income is being swallowed up.
Unfortunately, that’s just the pretty picture of the nation as a whole. For many individual housing markets, it’s way worse.
Los Angeles Home Buyers Facing Biggest Challenge
Homes in Los Angeles are the most out of reach
They require a staggering 46.8% of median income
Which is likely beyond what lenders will approve DTI-wise
And even if approved it means heightened risk for the borrower
In Los Angeles, the typical property for sale requires 46.8% of median income, which a lender probably wouldn’t even accept DTI-wise.
Prior to the most recent housing bubble, buyers in LA only needed to spend 35.2% of income on mortgage payments for the typical home purchase.
To sum it up, LA buyers have access to some of the lowest mortgage rates in history, yet need nearly half their paycheck to cover the mortgage. Makes you question that rent vs. buy decision, eh?
It’s the same story in California’s five other largest metros, including San Francisco (40.2% of income), San Diego (39.6% of income), San Jose (39.3%), Sacramento (29.1% of income), and Riverside (27.9% of income).
To determine affordability, Zillow assumed the buyer had a 20% down payment and a 30-year fixed at Freddie Mac’s prevailing mortgage rate.
These numbers are all higher relative to the income spent on the mortgage from 1985 through 2000.
The problem is similar in many other metros nationwide aside from places like Cleveland, where homes are actually more affordable than they’ve been historically.
There, the median list price of ~$144,000 requires just 12.7% of median income for monthly mortgage payments, significantly less than the 20% needed during the pre-bubble years.
But Cleveland is one of the few places where it has gotten much cheaper, and remember, this is at a time when mortgage rates remain near uncharted territory.
Prospective buyers still have to contend with larger down payment requirements thanks to those higher list prices, when taken together, make the prospect of owning a home dim.
Underwriting Will Get More Forgiving
As a result of this lack of affordability
Mortgage lenders will begin easing underwriting guidelines
We’re seeing it already with 1% down mortgages
And higher DTI allowances, which could lead to trouble
The only silver lining is that many lenders are now offering 1% down payments, including Quicken, and some are even rolling out zero down options like Movement Mortgage.
At the same time, Fannie Mae will soon allow higher debt-to-income ratios when its Desktop Underwriter (DU) Version 10.1 is released in late July.
In just over a month, DU will consider loan applications with a maximum DTI of 50%, and no longer require compensating factors for DTIs between 45-50%.
Additionally, their prior DU release from last September opened the door to automated underwriting for borrowers without credit scores.
Clearly we are trending toward looser underwriting guidelines after years of what many felt were excessively harsh policies.
But it’s kind of worrisome given it comes at a time when home prices are eclipsing old all-time highs and mortgage rates remain dirt cheap.
If buyers are still struggling to qualify with 3% mortgage rates and 1% down payments, there might be a problem lurking.
We financial planners and financial writers love to trot out hypothetical illustrations along the lines of “If you save 20% of your income starting at age 40, you’ll be able to retire by your late 60s, assuming an 8% rate of return” — a scenario I wrote about in March. While such projections are necessary for planning for the future, the truth is that they will most definitely be wrong once the future rolls around. There are just too many unknowable variables, such as future investment returns, inflation rates, and tax rates.
However, the unknowable unknowns aren’t just limited to economic variables, as readers often remind me after I write such an article. Here’s a tale a GRS reader told in the comments section after my March post:
In 1996 I had $78,000 in retirement funds and was 32 years old (hubby was 38). Then our home was flooded because a contractor doing a city project made a mistake. While struggling with being unable to live in the house, I was diagnosed with cancer and needed surgery ([we had] no insurance). Within a year I had cashed out the $78,000 to begin rebuilding the house and pay for surgery (we recouped a very small portion of the loss from the contractor). We sold the house and walked away with $11,000 to our name. That was in 1998.
We’ve tried to get back on track, but every time I save, something happens to eat it up: chronic illness, cost of experimental medication, hurricane and tornado damage to home over three years (part not covered by insurance), and more. Life lesson for us: Continue to save because it’s the responsible thing to do. Plan for the future, but be prepared for something to get in the way of those plans.
A sad story with an important lesson: Along your road to retirement, you may encounter speed bumps, fender-benders, road blocks, and perhaps outright tragedies. While many will be unpreventable, the financial fallout can be mitigated.
In this post, we discuss the most common causes of financial derailment, and what you can do to keep your plan on course. While many of the solutions are specific to each particular risk, there’s one line of defense that will protect your financial empire regardless of the method of assault, and that is a big, fat emergency fund. You’ve heard it before, but we’ll say it again: Have three to six months’ worth of living expenses in cash, ready to be deployed when the possible becomes the present.
Illnesses and Accidents Health problems are expensive and can impair a person’s ability to earn a paycheck. They can also force older Americans into retirement earlier than planned. Studies indicate that as many as 45% of current retirees quit work due to health problems or disability. The haleness and heartiness of a household’s breadwinner(s) aren’t the only factor; the health problems of other relatives, such as children or elderly relatives, can consume savings and impede a career.
Your defense As the sad tale of the above GRS reader shows, being diagnosed with a serious disease while lacking health insurance can lead to financial disaster. Being properly insured is an absolute necessity. However, no insurance policy covers all procedures and all costs. Reduce the burden of out-of-pocket expenses by participating in your employer’s flexible-spending plan, if offered, which allows you to set aside money for qualified health-care expenses. The money you contribute is not subject to income or payroll taxes.
The decision to acquire disability insurance, which replaces your paycheck in case you’re unable to work, is not as clear-cut. You already have some coverage through Social Security, though the definition of disability is very stringent. You may also have coverage through your employer. If you decide to purchase disability insurance for yourself, you’ll find that it can be expensive and complicated. However, the more your job requires that you be in good physical shape (e.g., traveling, meeting with clients, holding a scalpel, violin, or other tool), the more you should consider disability insurance. Many employers, professional associations, and other groups offer group disability policies, which can be less expensive and easier to qualify for.
Finally, one of the best ways to keep health-care costs down is to be healthy. As much as 70% of health-care costs are due to lifestyle choices — eating too much, moving too little, and putting things in our mouths that smoke, impair, or bear no resemblance to anything in nature.
Job Loss Once the boss stops sending a paycheck, either due to a layoff or company collapse, contributions to the 401(k) also stop. Depending on the person’s employment prospects, it may also be just a matter of time before debt piles up or the nest egg is cracked to cover living expenses. It’s a recipe for a delayed retirement.
But it’s not only the unemployed who find it harder to save for retirement. These days, income insecurity also takes the form of stagnant or reduced wages, while the costs of many goods and services keep rising. In many cases, the first item in the budget that gets sacrificed is contributions to the 401(k) or IRA.
Your defense Strengthening and expanding human capital is one of the most under-appreciated concepts in financial planning. To shore up your ability to turn your talents into dollars, develop multiple skills, stay on top of the trends in your company and its industry, and become crucial to your employer or, if you’re self-employed, your customers.
Loss of a Spouse Whether through death or divorce, the loss of a spouse can be emotionally and financially devastating. Most married household finances are built on two incomes, or one income and one spouse who does a lot of work that otherwise would cost money (e.g., raising kids). Then there’s the division of labor; it’s common for one spouse to handle all the bills or one to handle all the investing, with the other spouse being fairly ignorant of what’s going on. A death or divorce can leave a spouse on her or his own, often getting by on less income and having to assume all the financial housework.
Your defense If the death of a spouse would lead to significant financial hardship, then that spouse should have life insurance. Also, don’t be in the dark about important aspects of financial planning; each spouse has to at least know enough to step in during an emergency. One subscriber to my newsletter (a man who handles most of the financial duties in his household) annually updates a document he calls “A Letter From Your Dead Husband,” which explains the family finances to his wife in the case of his untimely demise.
As for divorce, it’s not very romantic to plan for your marriage’s dissolution. But if your matrimony is full of acrimony, begin by protecting yourself while still being fair to your spouse. If you’re engaged, a prenuptial agreement can be a delicate topic but a good idea, especially if there are kids from previous relationships.
Natural Disaster The tsunamis in Japan and tornadoes throughout America demonstrate that Mother Nature is a risk to everyone’s financial plan.
Your defense Have enough homeowners or renters insurance, with an insurer that has a record of honoring legitimate claims. Inventory all your possessions, with proof of ownership for big-ticket items, so you can substantiate your claims if necessary. Keep copies in several places, including in a fireproof safe or safety deposit box, along with other valuable items so that they’ll have some extra protection from the elements (as well as thieves).
Kids It costs $260,700 to raise a kid until age 17, according to the Department of Agriculture (because there’s little difference between a cow and a kid). And that doesn’t factor in college costs. Yes, children are their own form of natural disaster, at least when it comes to money. (Don’t get me started on the hair loss.)
Your defense Scientists are working on a cure. In the meantime, enjoy all the non-financial benefits of reproducing or adopting. Such as an excuse to play Candyland and Chutes & Ladder, again… and again… and again.
If you haven’t started your children or teens off with a kids checking account optimized for their needs, you’ll want to help your college student open a checking account before they begin school.
Opening a checking account for your child can teach them about money management and financial responsibility, along with providing them an easy way to make debit card purchases. It’s never too late to get started.
One advantage to helping your young adult open their first student checking account is they have more options than they might have when they were 16 or younger. Students over 18 can open a bank account with few restrictions.
But choosing a student checking account may give them access to higher interest rates and added features and benefits, along with fee-free checking, no monthly maintenance fees, and no minimum deposit to open an account.
12 Best Student Checking Accounts
Not surprisingly, many of the best student checking accounts come from banks that also offer some of the best checking accounts for any age. However, the products below – in most cases – are tailored for young adults from the ages of 18 to 24, with the features this age group desires most, including an intuitive mobile app and low or non-existent minimum deposit requirements.
1. Best for Students under 18: Capital One MONEY Teen
Most of the student bank accounts on our list exclude children under the age of 17 or 18. Capital One MONEY Teen checking is available to children ages 8 and up. It comes with all the benefits and security of a big bank, providing peace-of-mind. This includes access to Capital One branches and Capital One Cafes for in-person service. This account also serves as a great tool to teach your young adult the basics of banking.
Capital One MONEY Teen checking is a joint account with no monthly fee, no overdraft fees, and access to 70,000 ATMs with no fees. Plus, earn 0.10% on all balances, including those in checking.
You can link Capital One MONEY Teen checking to any other bank account through any bank or neobank, making it easy to transfer money to your teen while they are away at college. Plus, you can keep tabs on their spending with their linked account in the Capital One mobile app.
When they graduate, your teen can hold onto their MONEY account or transfer the funds into a top-rated Capital One 360 Checking account of their own.
2. Best for Working Students: Chime
Chime is not a bank. It’s a financial technology company and mobile app backed by Stride Bank, NA, and The Bancorp Bank. Many features make it perfect for working students. First, you can receive your paycheck up to two days earlier than you might at other banks with ACH deposit.
Plus, you can set up automatic transfers to your linked Chime Savings account, helping you to establish good financial habits early on. Simply set up Chime to transfer a percentage of your paycheck into your Savings Account every time you receive a direct deposit.
When you use your debit card for purchases, the “Save When You Spend” program rounds up your purchase and transfers the difference directly into savings. That small change can really add up, whether you’re saving for your first apartment after college, a new car, or your next tuition bill.
For working students looking to build their credit, Chime gives account holders access to a Credit Builder Secured Visa, with no annual fee, no credit check, and no security deposit required. Instead, the credit account is secured by your Chime checking account with monthly direct deposits.
Like many of the best student bank accounts on this list, Chime has no overdraft fee, no monthly service fee, no ATM fee for in-network ATMs, and no minimum balance requirements.
3. Best Account Opening Bonus: Chase College Checking
Chase Bank has been handing out student account opening bonuses like they hand out lollipops at their branches lately. College students ages 17 to 24 can snag a $100 bonus when they open an account online or at a local branch (students age 17 will need to visit a branch). You’ll just need to make 10 qualifying transactions within the first 60 days of opening the student bank account.
What’s a qualifying transaction? Virtually anything, according to the Chase website, including debit card purchases, online bill payments, Chase QuickDeposits, Zelle transfers, and ACH credits. Bank as you normally would, and you should easily earn that $100.
In addition to the generous sign-up bonus, Chase College Checking has no monthly fees for college students for up to five years, access to 16,000 ATMs and 4,700 branches across the U.S., and zero liability protection for unauthorized debit card purchases.
Chase Overdraft Assist covers purchases that exceed your account balance. You’ll pay no overdraft fee if you’re overdrawn by $50 or less at the end of the next business day.
4. Best for Yield: Ally Interest Checking
Ally Bank is the first bank on our list not designed specifically for students, but the vast array of features in this interest bearing checking account makes it ideal for young adults.
Ally Bank offers an APY of 0.25% on checking account balances and 4.00% APY on balances in a linked Ally Bank savings account. Neither account has any monthly fees.
Ally offers several features to help those on a tight budget manage their money. You can organize your money into spending and saving buckets, which can help you see exactly where your money goes each month. Ally will also review your bank accounts and help you find opportunities to save, and shuttle that extra money into your high yield Ally savings account.
Customers who have deposited $100 or more into their Ally checking account, or $250 via direct deposit, gain access to Ally’s CoverDraft service after 30 days. This protection covers up to $100 or $250 in charges that would overwise overdraft your account. Some purchases, including Zelle transfers, or ATM withdrawals, may be declined if they would put your account into overdraft.
Ally has no monthly maintenance fee, no overdraft fees, no ATM fee for in-network ATM transactions and no minimum balance requirement.
5. Best for Referrals to Earn Extra Cash: GO2bank
GO2bank, the digital bank associated with the top financial technology company Green Dot, offers an easy, straightforward money account with overdraft protection up to $200 with eligible direct deposits. The linked savings account pays a high 4.5% APY, with no fees for qualifying customers and no minimum balance requirement.
You can get regular ACH deposits from your job or side gigs up to two days earlier than most traditional banks. If you receive government benefits, such as Social Security, you can receive those deposits up to four days early.
Your GO2bank account will have a monthly service fee that costs $5 per month, unless you have a qualifying direct deposit that month. You will also pay fees for transfers from a linked debit card from another bank or fintech, mobile check deposits, and cash deposits.
If you are the type of person with friends who come to you for advice, you can earn $50 for each friend you refer to GO2bank who signs up with direct deposit. Your friend will also earn $50. You can use this offer for up to 30 friends, yielding $1,500 annually. This makes a GO2bank account great for social media influencers or college students with a large friend group.
6. Best for Full-Service Banking: Bank of America Advantage SafeBalance Banking
Bank of America Advantage checking accounts offer options for people in various stages of their financial life. College students might be best to start out with Bank of America Advantage SafeBalance banking, a straightforward money account with no overdraft fee and no checks.
The account has no monthly fee for students under the age of 25 or customers under the age of 18. Preferred Rewards customers also receive free checking. There is a $25 minimum deposit to open an account.
New Bank of America customers can earn a $100 account opening bonus when they open an account and set up direct deposits of $1,000 or more within 90 days.
7. Best for Comprehensive Money Management: PNC Virtual Wallet Student
Money Magazine named the PNC Virtual Wallet on its best banks for students list three years running. PNC Bank divides this mobile account into three separate accounts for everyday spending, “reserve,” or short-term savings, and “growth” for long-term savings.
The account has no monthly service fee for students for up to six years, along with all the benefits of a regular PNC Virtual Wallet. Additionally, students receive a courtesy refund of your first overdraft fee on your Spend account, one free incoming domestic or international wire transfer per statement period, and free paper statements if you opt in to receive them.
Once six years have passed or you are no longer a student, your account converts into a regular PNC Virtual Wallet, which may have associated monthly fees. Check the PNC website at that time to determine the fees and how you can waive them.
Your PNC Virtual Student Wallet pays a 0.01% APY on money in your Reserve account, and .02% on account balances up to $2,499 in your Growth account, with .03% APY on balances over $2,500. These may not be the best rates available, but the reputation of PNC Bank, along with the money management features in a Virtual Wallet Student account, make this an account worth considering for students just learning to budget.
8. Best for Establishing Savings Habits.: Wells Fargo Clear Access Banking
As one of the Big Four banks in the U.S., Wells Fargo offers a reliable and safe place to store your money, plus access to thousands of branches nationwide.
The Wells Fargo Clear Access banking account is great for teens and college students, since it’s available for account holders ages 13 to 24. Anyone under the age of 18 will need to open their account in a branch and anyone younger than 17 must have an adult aged 18+ as a joint account holder. The account has no monthly maintenance fee for anyone 24 or younger. A $25 minimum opening deposit is required.
Wells Fargo Clear Access banking is a simple, straightforward money account with no checks and personalized service at Wells Fargo branches. There are no overdraft fees with the account, but also no overdraft protection. Transactions that exceed the account or minimum balance amount will be declined, which helps put teens and young adults in charge of their money.
You can link your Clear Access bank account to a Way2Save Savings account and earn a 0.15% APY. You can establish good money habits by setting up automatic savings. Wells Fargo will transfer $1 from your Clear Access account into your checking account each time you use online bill pay or use your debit card for a one-time purchase. You can also transfer as little as $25 per month or $1 per day into your account to see your savings grow even faster.
9. Best for Cash Back: Discover Cashback Debit
The Discover Cashback Debit account may not be marketed to teens and students, by name. But, it’s enticing to anyone looking for a standard checking account with no monthly service fees and 1% cashback on debit card purchases, up to $3,000 per month. It’s highly unlikely for most college students to max out that free money (unless they are putting housing, tuition, and car expenses on their card).
Discover Cashback! debit card offers many of the benefits you’d expect from these top-rated money accounts, including early direct deposit, 60,000+ no-fee ATMs, and overdraft protection from your linked Discover Savings with no fees. Discover charges no fees for insufficient funds, bank checks, regular checks, or expedited delivery of a replacement debit card.
These features make it one of the most convenient accounts you can hold. Plus, you don’t have to worry about “aging out” of the account and facing fees for a non-student bank account. Your Discover Cashback Debit account will be free no matter your age. Link it to a Discover Savings Account to earn 4.0% APY with no minimum deposit required.
10. Best for Unlimited Out-of-Network ATM Fee Reimbursement – Axos Bank Rewards Checking
Another bank account not marketed to students but meeting all their needs is the Axos Bank Rewards Checking account. This account has no monthly fees. It also reimburses ATM fees for out-of-network ATMs nationwide, which is great for students who travel domestically or who don’t have ATMs in their network on campus.
Pay no overdraft fee or non-sufficient funds fees with this account. Best of all, earn an APY of 0.40% on your checking balance if you receive monthly direct deposits of $1,500-plus. Young investors can ramp up their interest rate by 1% with an average daily balance of $2,500 in an Axos Invest Managed Portfolio Account, plus another 1% by holding $2,500 in a self-directed trading account. If you take out a loan through Axos, you can add another 0.60% to your APY.
College students likely won’t regret opening an Axos Bank account to take them through adulthood, especially with options for investing, low mortgage rates, car loans, and more.
Plus, earn a welcome bonus when you open an account and have direct deposits of at least $1,500 within a single calendar month during the first three months of account opening.
11. Best Credit Union: Alliant Credit Union Teen Checking
Alliant Credit Union offers a teen checking account for minors ages 13 to 17. The account is insured up to $250,000 per account holder by the National Credit Union Administration (NCUA). The adult account holder must be an Alliant Credit Union member. But it’s easy to join by depositing $5 into an Alliant Credit Union saving account. Alliant Savings earns an APY of 0.25%.
The teen checking account has no overdraft fees or non-sufficient funds fee. It also has no monthly fees or minimum balance requirements. Account holders gain access to 80,000+ fee free ATMs nationwide plus $20 per month in ATM fee reimbursement for out-of-network ATM use. This is an interest earning checking account which also pays 0.25% APY on all balances as long as you have at least one deposit, via ACH direct deposit, mobile check deposit, or transfer from another bank or credit union, each month.
12. Best for Young Shoppers: Varo Bank
Varo Bank is another account not necessarily marketed to college students but definitely optimized for their needs. The Varo Bank debit card delivers up to 6% cash back, with money deposited into your Varo account as soon as you accrue $5 in rewards.
Like many of the best student accounts on this list, Varo has no monthly fee, no minimum balance requirements, and no overdraft fee. If you need money before payday, you can use Varo Advance, an interest-fee program that allows you to borrow up to $250 and pay it back within 30 days. You will not pay fees to borrow less than $20. Borrowing up to $250 comes with fees that can be as high as $15, depending on the amount of cash advance you need.
Varo Bank uses the Allpoint network of ATMs, with fee free access to 55,000+ ATMs nationwide. Using other bank ATMs could result in charges up to $3 from Varo and fees charged by the other banks, as well.
It pays to open a linked Varo Bank savings to take advantage of a high 3% APY. Account holders with direct deposits equal to $1,000 per month and a positive balance in their Varo checking and savings can earn up to 4% APY.
One of the best things about a Varo account is it can grow with you. You won’t pay additional fees as an adult out of college, so you can keep the same bank account you started with for your entire life if you want.
Methodology: How We Select the Best Student Checking Accounts
To find the best student checking accounts, we evaluated the monthly maintenance fees, ATM fees, minimum deposit requirements, features, benefits, banking services provided, along with customer service and mobile app access at several of the biggest and most well-known banks and credit unions.
ATM Network
Most banks have ATM networks or partner ATM networks of 20,000 or more ATMs nationwide where you can use your debit card with no ATM fees. You might be surprised to learn that even online banks and financial technology companies that are not a bank provide access to thousands of ATMs nationwide through partner programs.
Nationwide availability (physical locations or mobile access)
College students often split time between their college campus and the home where they grew up. Finding a bank with physical locations in the areas they live or an online bank that provides a mobile banking app with fee free mobile banking from anywhere is important.
Fees and minimum requirements
Bank fees no longer have to be a way of life for today’s young adults. We chose financial institutions with no monthly maintenance fees or easy ways to waive maintenance fees.
Benefits such as high APY, cash-back rewards, or other additional perks
Student checking accounts today are more than just “bare bones” places to store your cash. Many student bank accounts offer perks, benefits, and high-yield savings or an interest bearing checking account to provide added value.
Overdraft fees
Cash management mistakes happen, especially when young adults first start learning to budget and manage their finances. Many banks have no overdraft fees and some offer overdraft protection to help out in a pinch.
How to Choose the Best Bank for College Students
We’ve offered 12 solid options to help you choose the best student checking account. Before you open a student bank account, it’s a good idea to think about what you need in your primary checking account and a linked savings.
The list below makes it easy to review your must-haves and nice-to-haves when you choose your first bank account as a college student.
Best student checking account interest rates
If you’re looking to earn interest on your standard checking account, many banks offer this feature. Review annual percentage yield (APY) figures for your top choices.
Remember, a higher savings interest rate might benefit you more, since money in your checking account tends to fluctuate based on paychecks, bills, and expenses. The best checking account may not pay interest, but can save you money in other ways.
Annual Percentage Yield (APY)
Likewise, you can put money in your pocket with an account with linked savings offering a high annual percentage yield (APY).
Mobile Check Deposit
If you get paid via paper checks, you’ll want to find an account with a mobile app that offers mobile check deposit. Find out how fast deposits clear, and if mobile banking services are fee free.
No Monthly Maintenance Fees
Many banks today make it easy to find a free checking account with no maintenance fees. If you have to pay a monthly maintenance fee, find out exactly what you’re getting for your money. Find out if the perks and benefits, such as a cash back debit card or reimbursement of ATM fees make the maintenance fees worthwhile.
Minimum Deposit and Minimum Balance Requirements
When you’re just getting started, cash may be tight. It’s important to find an account with no minimum deposit to open.
Banking Services Provided
Accounts should have customer service online, by phone or in branches, plus an easy-to-use mobile app and a debit card with no ATM fees.
FAQs About Student Checking Accounts
Read what people are asking about the best student checking accounts, including minimum deposit requirements and benefits of a student checking account.
What are the benefits of a student bank account?
A bank account tailored for students gives young adults a head start on their financial future and learning how to manage money. For students who work, they can receive direct deposits in their student account, pay bills online, and send money to friends and family using Zelle.
How to get a student checking account bonus?
Several student checking accounts, including Chase, provide sign-up bonuses. Make sure to read the fine print and complete the requirements, which may include setting up direct deposit or making a minimum opening deposit, to collect the bonus.
Can I open a student checking account without a deposit?
To open a student checking account without a minimum deposit amount, simply look for a bank account, like Varo, that has no minimum opening deposit.
Are there any downsides to opening a student checking account?
When you open a student checking account, you’ll want to make sure you won’t pay monthly maintenance fees. Some student checking accounts convert to a regular account once the student graduates, and there may be fees associated with the regular account.
Is there an age limit on a student checking account?
Most student checking accounts are open to students from the age of 18 to 24 without a joint account holder. Customers under the age of 18 may be able to open an account with a joint owner.
Can minors open student checking accounts?
Accounts like Capital One Money Teen are available to children ages 8 and up with a joint account holder. Some other accounts require students to be 18 or older.
What happens to your student checking account when you graduate?
Many of the student bank accounts on this list won’t change when you graduate college. Others offer the option to convert your account to one of the bank’s regular checking products. A Chase College Checking Account has no monthly fees for your first five years in college, but if you graduate or exceed that time frame, you might pay a $6 monthly maintenance fee unless you meet other requirements.
Opening a bank account online has not only become an effortless task but also a smart move towards managing your finances with ease. This guide will help you understand the benefits, requirements, and steps to transition your banking experience into the digital realm.
This will give you control and accessibility like never before. Embrace the future of banking today and discover how opening a bank account online can be a game-changer for your financial journey.
Understand Your Banking Needs
Determining your banking needs is a crucial first step in choosing the right account. Are you looking for a secure place to deposit your paycheck, withdraw cash, and manage your bills? A checking account could be your answer. It’s an excellent tool for everyday transactions, providing features like check writing, debit card access, and often, the ability to set up direct deposits.
Alternatively, if you have a financial goal in mind, such as saving for a down payment or creating an emergency fund, a savings account could be more suitable. These accounts typically offer higher interest rates compared to checking accounts, allowing your money to grow over time.
It’s worth noting that many people maintain both checking and savings accounts. The checking account serves as a hub for daily transactions, while the savings account functions as a reservoir for longer-term savings and investment goals. Your specific mix will depend on your personal financial needs and goals.
Choosing the Right Bank
Finding the right bank depends on your individual needs and preferences. There are three main types of banks to consider: traditional banks, credit unions, and online banks.
Traditional banks offer a wide array of services like various types of accounts, credit cards, and loans. They are great if you prefer having in-person access to services and a large network of ATMs.
Credit unions are member-owned and often excel in customer service. They generally offer better interest rates on savings accounts but may have less online and physical accessibility than traditional banks.
Online banks operate purely online, which often allows them to offer lower fees and higher interest rates. They’re a good choice if you’re comfortable doing all your banking digitally.
No matter which type of bank you choose, make sure it’s FDIC insured to protect your money. Also, consider the bank’s fees, such as monthly service and ATM fees, as they can add up over time. A bank with fewer fees or options to waive them could save you money.
Requirements for Opening a Bank Account Online
Once you’ve decided on your banking needs and the financial institution, it’s time to gather the necessary information to open your bank account online.
Most financial institutions will require:
Personal Information: Your legal name, date of birth, and Social Security number.
Contact Information: A valid mailing address and phone number. Banks typically require these to verify your identity and as part of their communication and security protocols.
Identification: A valid form of identification such as a driver’s license, state ID, or passport. You may need to provide the ID number and expiration date.
Initial Deposit: Some banks may require an initial deposit to open the account. You can usually fund this by transferring money from an existing account or using a credit or debit card.
Before starting, it’s helpful to check the specific requirements of your chosen bank, as requirements may vary from one financial institution to another.
Step-by-Step Guide on How to Open a Bank Account Online
Taking your banking experience online might seem intimidating initially. However, the process is typically straightforward, taking just a few minutes. Follow this step-by-step guide to set up your bank account online.
Visit the bank’s website: Begin by visiting the official website of your chosen bank or credit union. Look for the “Open an Account” or “Apply Now” option, typically found in the main navigation or home page.
Fill out the application form: The bank will prompt you to fill out an application form requiring your personal information. This includes your full name, mailing address, and Social Security number. You may also need to provide a valid form of identification and employment information.
Verify your identity: As part of the process, you’ll be asked to verify your identity. This could involve answering security questions based on your credit history or providing a valid ID. This step is crucial to protect against identity theft and fraud.
Fund your account: Most banks require an initial deposit when opening a new account. You can fund your account via a transfer from an existing bank account, a credit or debit card, or even a check. The required deposit varies from bank to bank, with some online banks allowing you to open an account with no initial deposit.
Confirm and finalize your account setup: Once you’ve completed these steps, you’ll receive a confirmation email or message from the bank. This message usually contains instructions on how to set up online banking, including setting up your username and password.
What to Do After Opening Your Account
With your bank account online set up, it’s vital to get acquainted with all its features and maximize them for your convenience and financial growth.
Set up direct deposit: Direct deposit is a crucial feature to set up as soon as your account is active. It allows your paycheck to be automatically deposited into your account, saving you from manual deposits and giving you quicker access to your money.
Learn to use online banking features:Familiarize yourself with key online banking features. Bill pay, for instance, can automate your monthly payments, ensuring timely transactions without manual intervention. Mobile check deposit lets you deposit checks without the need to visit a bank branch, and the money transfer feature enables seamless transfer of funds between accounts or to friends and family, making your banking experience both quick and hassle-free.
Regularly review your account statements: Regular monitoring of your account statements is a good financial habit. It helps track your spending, review any account fees, and promptly detect any suspicious activity or discrepancies. This practice keeps you aware of your financial status and ensures the security of your account.
The Importance of Regularly Reviewing Your Banking Needs
As life unfolds and your circumstances evolve, so too do your banking needs. Major life events – a career shift, marriage, welcoming a child, or even retirement, could alter your financial landscape significantly.
Perhaps a job change comes with a pay increase, necessitating a better savings strategy, or marriage might call for a joint account. A new child could lead you to start a college savings account. These changes underscore the importance of regularly reassessing your banking arrangements.
Every few years, or at the occurrence of significant life events, it’s beneficial to review your banking needs. This regular review ensures your financial arrangements align with your life’s dynamics, ensuring your money is working for you at every stage.
Bottom Line
Opening a savings or checking account online is an easy and efficient process, offering you the freedom to manage your finances at your fingertips. But remember, the process doesn’t stop with opening an account.
Make sure to fully utilize the features of your online account, keep a close eye on your statements, and adjust your banking needs as your life changes. Stay informed and proactive in your approach to banking – this way, you ensure that your online bank account serves you effectively in every phase of your financial journey.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I open a bank account online without a deposit?
Yes, certain banks allow you to open an account with no opening deposit. However, they may require you to fund the account within a specific time frame to keep it active.
What should I do if I don’t have a Social Security number?
If you’re an international resident without a Social Security number, you might still open a bank account using an Individual Taxpayer Identification Number (ITIN), passport, or other forms of identification. It’s advisable to contact the bank directly for their specific requirements.
How old do I need to be to open a bank account online?
Typically, the minimum age to open a bank account online is 18. For those under 18, many banks offer the option of joint accounts with a parent or guardian, or specific accounts designed for minors.
Can I open multiple bank accounts online?
Yes, you can open multiple bank accounts online, including a mix of checking and savings accounts, depending on your financial needs. It’s important to consider potential monthly fees and the ease of managing multiple accounts.
Is it safe to open a bank account online?
Opening a bank account online is generally safe as long as you’re using a secure network and are applying through the official website of a reputable bank or credit union. Always look for indications of security, like the “https” at the beginning of the web address.
What should I do if I face issues while opening a bank account online?
If you encounter any issues while opening a bank account online, the best course of action is to contact the bank’s customer service for assistance. They can guide you through the process or resolve any technical glitches you might be facing.
For over five years now, I’ve spent most of my waking hours reading and writing about money. I’ve learned a lot. Using this knowledge, I’ve been able to get out of debt, build savings, and even begin pursuing my passions. What’s next? As time passes, I find myself thinking more about financial independence and early retirement.
No surprise then that over the last couple of months I’ve been obsessed with Jacob Lund Fisker’s Early Retirement Extreme blog. And no surprise that my first book review since September is of Fisker’s book, also called Early Retirement Extreme.
Early Retirement Extreme
Imagine a personal-finance book written by a theoretical physicist. What would it be like? Full of formulas and figures, right? Well, that’s what you get with Early Retirement Extreme. But you get more, too.
Fisker’s story and style are unique. After graduating with a PhD in theoretical physics, he worked for five years as a research associate. For that five years, he saved 75% of his net (after tax) income. Fisker reached financial independence at 30 and then, at age 33, he retired. (How does Fisker define financial independence? By the time he was 30, he’d saved the equivalent of 25 years of living expenses. That’s a 25-year emergency fund.)
While many people think you need to earn big bucks to retire early, Fisker did it differently. Instead of boosting income, Fisker cut costs drastically. While drawing an average salary, he learned to live on less. Much less. He started to do things himself. (He wrote, edited, and published this book, for example.) His pre-retirement lifestyle and post-retirement lifestyle are essentially the same. Except now he doesn’t have to work.
Early Retirement Extreme feels like a book written by an engineer for other engineers. This isn’t a bad thing, but it is unique. Some people will love it; others will hate it.
Here’s a scan from page 111 to show what I mean:
While this sort of thing isn’t on every page, there’s still plenty of it in the book. Because Fisker is (or was) a theoretical physicist, his book is filled with formulas and figures. If this bugs you, Early Retirement Extreme probably isn’t a good choice. I found these passages amusing. Instead of letting the math intimidate me (my only college math course was behavioral statistics, and that was over twenty years ago), I glossed over it looking for the core concepts the book was trying to convey. (In the example above, “spend your time and energy on the things that will give you the biggest returns”.)
Note: Fisker notes that the book only has about twenty equations, and sixteen of them belong to one argument about investing. This is true. But Early Retirement Extreme does read like a textbook, and there’s other math, even when there aren’t complex calculations involved.
Fisker’s technical mind manifests itself in other ways. When writing about how to save money in the kitchen, for instance, he approaches it as an optimization problem. How do you choose what food to buy? Fisker writes, “The most optimal method is to shop for ingredients, and then, based on the ingredients one has available, determine a recipe.” In other words, start with what you have (or what’s on sale) and go from there. Learn to improvise. And optimally, you wouldn’t have a stovetop or a refrigerator. (You would have a slow cooker and a chest freezer, though.)
But Early Retirement Extreme is more than just a personal-finance book filled with formulas and figures. It’s also philosophical.
Philosophical Extreme
In many ways, Early Retirement Extreme is a book of philosophy. Fisker doesn’t set out to give you a step-by-step map to wealth; instead, he tries to give you the tools to draw your own map. He wants readers to think about their choices and about the world around them. He wants to challenge their assumptions about what’s financially feasible.
When I say this is a book of philosophy, I don’t mean that in some vague metaphorical sense. I meant it literally. To challenge his readers’ assumptions, Fisker begins the book by exploring Plato’s allegory of the cave.
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Plato’s allegory of the cave — like The Matrix for ancient Greeks
We’re like prisoners chained in a cave, Fisker says, except that we’re chained to our jobs, our expensive homes, the things we own. We don’t even realize there’s any other way to live. But it doesn’t have to be this way. “By taking the other end of the bargain, saving as much as other people are spending on wants, it’s possible to retire and live on invested savings after just five years of full-time work.”
Fisker notes that there are plenty of people who will dismiss this idea as crazy:
The most frequent objection to casting off the chains is that living on something corresponding to every third paycheck, or even every fourth paycheck ($6,000 to $10,000 a year), as opposed to living paycheck to paycheck, must be a boring life. Not knowing any better, I must admit that I started my own adventure with such assumptions.
[…]
As a lifelong consumer used to spending large amounts of money to obtain food, stuff, and entertainment, it’s hard to imagine how it’s possible to spend practically nothing on furniture, a few dollars on clothing, very little on food, almost nothing on transport, and generally less on rent/mortgage. However, it’s possible to live on a third or even a quarter of the median income, putting one solidly below the government defined poverty line, without living in austerity and eating grits.
This philosophical underpinning sets Early Retirement Extreme apart. The book (and the blog) are unlike any other financial material I’ve ever read. Yes, some books — including Your Money or Your Life or even my own Your Money: The Missing Manual — contain bits of philosophy, but not like this. At times, the philosophical bent is overwhelming.
Note: Think Early Retirement Extreme sounds too extreme? Check out these journals over at the ERE forums. Here’s where other people are documenting their experiments with this lifestyle.
Putting Theory into Practice
The first half of Early Retirement Extreme establishes a philosophical framework with which to evaluate your relationship to money. After he sets the stage, Fisker spends the last half of the book explaining how to put this theory into practice, how to work toward extreme early retirement.
In some ways, for instance, Fisker is like the opposite of Tim Ferriss. In The 4-Hour Workweek, you’ll remember, Ferriss advocated “outsourcing” as much of your life as possible in order to give yourself more time to do the things you want. Fisker thinks this is nuts.
“People spend eight hours a day for 30 years to buy electric can openers,” Fisker writes. (An electric can opener is one degree of outsourcing.) “The solution is to reverse the outsourcing of ordinary life skills and gradually insource skills that were previously acquired in the marketplace.” He urges readers to mend their own clothes, grow a garden, cook their own food, walk and bike for transportation, and so on.
Some parts of Early Retirement Extreme are brilliant. For instance, the six pages on “construction methods” (by which Fisker means using life skills to solve problems) are some of the best I’ve ever read about the value of doing things yourself. Fisker doesn’t actually tell the readers how to do anything; instead, he provides a framework for problem solving.
And I love the section on deciding which things to own. Fisker says that the stuff you buy should:
Have “appropriate quality” and a low lifetime cost.
Be durable.
Be easy to dispose of.
Be small and lightweight.
Be easy to make.
Be easy to service.
“For commonly used items,” Fisker writes, “a higher quality tends to pay off in the long run.” After years of frugality, I finally figured this out. Yes, it hurts to pay more for a quality item. But if it lasts, it’s worth it. (As Fisker notes, being willing to pay for quality is one of the differences between being frugal and cheap.)
Fisker also writes, “Only a fraction of the things we own contribute to our actual quality of life. These are the things we use on a daily basis.” Instead of owning lots of Stuff, why not focus on making sure the the things we use all the time are well made and a pleasure to use?
Note: My real millionaire next door is an example of someone who adheres closely to the lifestyle Fisker describes. Coincidence? Evidence that this works? Something else entirely?
Not Without Flaw
My chief complaint with Early Retirement Extreme is that the book could use an editor. Fisker writes well, but he tends to repeat himself at times. He uses long paragraphs. There are (minor) contradictions and typos here and there. An editor would help smooth some of these things — but an editor is anathema to Fisker’s philosophy.
Also, although Fisker writes with an authoritative and persuasive voice, I’m not convinced he’s always correct. (Fisker dismisses the need to cite his sources, but I think that makes the book weaker rather than stronger.)
The third chapter of Early Retirement Extreme, for instance, discusses “economic degrees of freedom” and includes a financial framework of Fisker’s own creation, which divides people into four categories:
The salary man — A wage earner with one source of income.
The working man — A freelancer or consultant with variable income.
The businessman — A business owner.
The Renaissance man — A generalist who makes a little money at many different things.
I’m sure these classifications make sense to Fisker, but they don’t make sense to me. I read this section several times and still the labels and differences between the groups seem arbitrary and not based on reality.
Despite my complaints — which are mostly about the book’s style, not its message — I loved Early Retirement Extreme. I don’t agree with everything, but I agree with much of it, and I admire the rest.
Early Retirement Extreme is about strategies, not tactics — it’s about the Big Picture instead of the day-to-day actions needed to retire early. As a result, some readers will be frustrated. But if you’re up to the challenge of filling in Fisker’s framework with your own details, this book could be a life changer.
Hawaii is an exciting place to call home. It offers incredible weather, scenic views, friendly people, and a slow-paced lifestyle. If you’re lucky enough to live or work in Hawaii, you might be looking for the best banks in the state.
While the Aloha State has fewer banks than other states, there are still plenty of reputable, member FDIC options available to you.
12 Best Banks in Hawaii
To make your search for a bank a bit easier, we’ve done some research and compiled this list of the best banks in Hawaii.
1. First Hawaiian Bank
First Hawaiian Bank, the oldest bank in the state, holds the distinction of having the most branches in Hawaii. This makes it a convenient choice for many people looking to open a checking account, as it provides three different options.
Their first option, Pure Checking, offers a straightforward, fee-free experience, complete with a complimentary debit card. The second, Priority Banking Gold, expands on these features by offering free checks and online bill pay, as well as discounts on loans.
For those seeking the most benefits, the Priority Banking Platinum provides an extensive list of perks, including a credit card with unlimited rewards and cash back, travel points, and no restrictions on redemption dates.
Beyond checking accounts, First Hawaiian Bank also caters to various other personal banking needs. They offer savings accounts, mortgage services, and wealth management solutions, among other things.
2. SoFi
SoFi serves as a top-notch alternative to traditional banking, catering to individuals seeking the convenience and flexibility of online banking. The SoFi Checking & Savings account offers a unique combination of checking account accessibility and high-yield savings account returns in a single, streamlined account.
There is no minimum balance requirement, no monthly fees, and no overdraft fees, positioning SoFi as a cost-effective solution for a broad spectrum of users. There’s also an enticing offer of earning up to $250 with qualifying direct deposits.
One of the most compelling aspects of SoFi is the impressive interest rates it offers. The savings account yields a 4.30% APY, while checking account balances earn 1.20% APY, both rates far outpacing those offered by most traditional banks. What’s more, deposits are insured by the FDIC up to $2 million, providing an added layer of financial security.
With SoFi Checking & Savings, accessing your money is both straightforward and convenient. Over 55,000 Allpoint® Network ATMs across the globe offer fee-free withdrawals, ensuring you can easily access your money whenever you need it.
3. Ally Bank
Ally Bank is an online bank that serves residents in every state, including Hawaii. It’s worth considering if you’re seeking an interest bearing checking account or competitive rates on high yield savings accounts, CDs, and money market accounts.
While deposit accounts are Ally’s bread and butter, the bank also offers mortgages, auto refinancing, and investment products. As an Ally account holder, you won’t have to worry about any monthly fees or minimum opening deposits.
Since Ally is an online-only bank, there are no local branches in Hawaii. Fortunately, it’s part of the Allpoint ATM network that will give you free access to more than 43,000 Allpoint ATMs. If you do use an out-of-network ATM, the bank will reimburse you up to $10 per month.
4. First American Trust
First American Trust operates one branch in Honolulu. If you have a particular interest in wealth planning, it should definitely be on your radar. It provides several wealth planning services, such as financial planning, retirement planning, and estate planning for individuals and families.
Its advisors can also help you set up a trust and protect your greatest assets. Additionally, First American Trust is a great resource if you’d like to build a diversified investment portfolio.
5. Bank of Hawaii
Headquartered in Honolulu, Bank of Hawaii is a regional bank and the second-oldest bank in the state. It serves local communities with a comprehensive suite of products and services as well as sponsorships and volunteerism. The bank’s lineup of personal banking products includes checking accounts, savings accounts, certificates of deposit (CDs), credit cards, personal loans, and insurance.
In addition, it supports small business owners with business deposit accounts, business credit cards, merchant services, and small business loans. The bank also specializes in investment services and long-term financial planning to help you meet your personal finance goals. If you’re interested in Bank of Hawaii, you can chat with a banker online or in-person at a local branch.
6. Central Pacific Bank
Central Pacific Bank has been around since 1954 and has physical locations in Hawaii, Oahu, Maui, and Kauai as well as mobile banking services. It was originally founded to help immigrants build a safe life.
Today, the Hawaii bank offers a wide range of products and services to individuals and small businesses in the Aloha State. Central Pacific Bank stands out for its diverse savings account options, high rates on CDs, and low minimum balance requirements.
It also provides personalized, high quality wealth planning services from a team of wealth advisors. You can download the bank’s mobile app to pay bills, send money through Zelle, check your online statements, set notifications, track your budget, and keep tabs on your financial activity.
7. CIT Bank
CIT Bank is a digital bank with several attractive products for Hawaii residents. Savings Connect is a savings account that offers a competitive interest rate you might not be able to find elsewhere.
Another savings account you may want to consider at CIT Bank is the Savings Builder. While the Savings Builder has a lower annual percentage yield or APY than Savings Connect, it can encourage you to save as you must deposit at least $100 per month from your paycheck or elsewhere to secure the highest APY.
Unlike many brick-and-mortar financial institutions, CIT Bank doesn’t charge monthly maintenance fees, overdraft fees, ATM fees, or excessive transaction fees. You can open a new account and manage it via the online portal or mobile app. If you have any questions or concerns, you can contact phone support on weekdays and Saturdays during select hours.
8. Hawaii National Bank
Hawaii National Bank is a local bank that made its debut in 1960 and has branch locations in Oahu, Maui, and Hilo. It offers several checking accounts, including the Household Checking, Personal Checking, 55+ Checking, Super NOW, and VIP Money Market Deposit. Even though some checking accounts come with monthly fees, the bank may waive them if you maintain a certain balance.
Savings account options include the traditional Personal Savings account with a variable, competitive interest rate, Kids’ Savings account for kids ages 5 to 17, and Christmas Savings account that can help you save for the holiday season.
In addition to checking accounts and savings accounts, you may turn to Hawaii National Bank for personal loans, credit cards, home loans, CDs, and retirement accounts. The bank also serves small business owners with deposit accounts, business loans, and commercial mortgages.
9. American Savings Bank
Known as the third-largest bank in Hawaii, American Savings Bank serves the Aloha State with a wide range of offerings. You can choose from three checking accounts, six savings accounts, and several credit cards with cash back rewards or points. American Savings Bank also offers CDs, student loans, mortgages, and credit cards.
If you open a checking account, you’ll reap the benefits of Overdraft Courtesy, which protects you from overdrafts that may occur from checks and electronic payments. Additionally, the bank’s advisors can assist you with investments and insurance.
If you become an American Savings customer, you may take advantage of online banking, which allows for mobile check deposit, automatic bill pay, Zelle payments, eStatements, and more.
10. Synchrony Bank
Synchrony Bank is an online bank you might want to explore as a Hawaii resident. With Synchrony, you can expect high interest rates on savings accounts and CDs, no monthly fees, a variety of credit card options from popular retailers, and reimbursements for out-of-network ATM access.
If you join the Synchrony Bank Perks Rewards program, you can earn elite status if you meet certain criteria. You’ll reach Diamond status, which is the top level if you deposit more than $250,000 or stay with the bank for five years. This status comes with perks like three free wire transfers per statement cycle and unlimited reimbursements for domestic ATMs.
11. Territorial Savings Bank
Territorial Savings Bank has served Hawaii customers since its inception in 1921. If you open a checking account, you’ll be able to earn interest as long as you deposit $100.
The bank also offers numerous CDs with competitive interest rates, special mortgage rates for first time homeowners, and discounts from local merchants, like hotels, car rental companies, and restaurants.
If you’re a small business owner, you may select from a number of business deposit accounts, business credit cards, and business loans.
12. Finance Factors
Headquartered in Honolulu, Finance Factors has 13 branches throughout the Aloha State. The bank’s deposit products are savings accounts, CDs, and retirement accounts.
It also specializes in a wide range of home loans like conventional mortgages, government-backed mortgages, jumbo mortgages, and investor mortgages. You can stop into a local branch or log into the online portal to manage your account.
Bottom Line
As you can see, there are a variety of banks in the Aloha State. Before you move forward with one, it’s a good idea to weigh the pros and cons of all your options. Factors like your particular banking needs and whether you prefer an online or in-person banking experience will help you make the best choice for your unique situation. Good luck with your search for the best bank in Hawaii.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the largest bank in Hawaii?
First Hawaiian Bank holds the title as the largest bank in Hawaii, establishing a significant presence with a total of 49 branches scattered across the state. Founded in 1858, it boasts a long history and deep roots in the local community.
Should I choose an online bank or a traditional bank in Hawaii?
An online bank is your best bet if your goal is to land the best interest rate and lowest fees. However, if personalized service is important to you, you’d likely be better off with a traditional bank. Fortunately, most traditional banks offer mobile apps and online portals.
Is a credit union a good option in Hawaii?
If you find a credit union with the ideal loan or the products and services you need and qualify for membership, you may want to join it. But you may find a wider range of offerings at a bank.
Why are there no national banks in Hawaii?
National banks aren’t in the Aloha State due to its small population and the high cost of real estate. Smaller banks are your only option if you live or work in Hawaii. The good news is you’ll find many local banks that offer just as many products and services as big banks.
This guest post from the redoubtable Tyler K is part of the new “reader stories” feature here at Get Rich Slowly. Some reader stories contain general “how I did X” advice, and others will be examples of how a GRS reader achieved financial success — or failure. Tyler is an active commenter at GRS, and never afraid to share his opinion!
Like J.D., I once had a big problem with debt. Unlike J.D., I didn’t dig myself out from under that problem gracefully.
About eight years ago, I was a college student, living in an apartment near campus, and working full time while going to school. I felt like I was on top of the world. Here I was, seeing all my friends making $6 or $8 an hour, while I was making about $17. That seemed like a lot of money. It was about $35,000 a year — not just a college student’s salary, but a real salary. I felt like I deserved to be living it up a bit, especially considering all the work I was doing with a full-time job and a full time class load.
I went overboard. I spent well beyond the $35,000/year I was making (it wasn’t as much money as it felt like). I bought a Mustang, and modified it into an amateur race car. I had the latest laptop and a desktop computer with a flat screen display (in 2001). My $35k/year salary was enough to live on, but it wasn’t enough to support spending $1500 on a laptop computer and on a desktop computer and on high-performance cylinder heads, but that’s what I did.
I bought all of them, and more.
This kept up for a year or two. I kept justifying these purchases to myself, and my credit card balances slowly rose along with my required minimum payments. A bout of bad luck exacerbated the problem. I was mugged outside my apartment, and having no medical insurance, ran up an emergency room bill. My race car was stolen, and being 21 and owning a race car, I couldn’t afford comprehensive car insurance, I had liability only. I bought another car to replace it, again with borrowed money.
Things fall apart
Eventually, I realized I was in over my head. I was gasping for air. I couldn’t make my credit card payments and also pay my rent and buy groceries. I was driven to the edge, and I gave up. I stopped paying all my credit card bills, and they went into collections. I voluntarily surrendered my car to be repossessed. I figured if I was going to ruin my credit score, I might as well go all out — I even hired a bankruptcy attorney. She managed to stop the incessant flood of phone calls from creditors, but I found I couldn’t afford even to pay for the bankruptcy proceedings, and so that process stopped shortly thereafter.
At this point, I owed approximately $30,000 on about four different credit cards, the medical bill, and the car loan, all of these in collections. My credit had been destroyed, but my creditors had been silenced by the bankruptcy attorney. I decided to get my life in order and worry about paying back the debts I owed later. It was easy to justify — I could barely put food on the table and the credit card company was still bringing in billions every year. They didn’t need an extra few thousand dollars as desperately as I did. So I let my debts ride, and worked on running my life in a sustainable way.
Turning things around
The first thing I did was give up credit cards entirely.
I decided to only spend money I actually had, and so my purchases of toys slowed dramatically. My extravagances in life dropped to going out to eat with my roommate a couple times a week, and not at particularly fancy places. I got into bicycling as a hobby, on a used, mid-range road bike — not a brand new, high-end model like I would have bought before. And there I sat, content with the computer I already had, my modest bicycle, and the occasional trip out for dinner. I was living quite comfortably on my salary with my new outlook on life. For the first time in years, I felt comfortable with myself. I actually managed to save a few dollars from paycheck to paycheck instead of spending them!
I did decide that I needed a car, though. I hadn’t enough money to pay cash for one, and I doubted anyone would give me a loan, so still being young and in school, I asked my parents to help. This time though, I was much more conservative.
I borrowed about $5,000 from my parents and created a definite plan for paying them back. I bought a nine-year-old but well-maintained Honda Accord, and I stuck to the payments religiously. This time if I were to fall behind, not only would I give up my newfound peace I’d made with myself financially, but I’d be letting my parents down instead of faceless mega-corporations.
No credit needed
Shortly thereafter, I finished school, and took a software engineering job in San Francisco. Rents were higher in the city, but my salary doubled. My brother needed a car, and I worked out a deal with my parents to give him mine, along with the rest of the payments on the loan. I wanted to get a brand new one.
I went down to the car dealership with my pay stubs from my new job, and my ruined credit score, and a pre-approval I’d gotten online for a loan of up to $26,000. I was determined to make something work. As it turned out, this was easier than I’d anticipated. Car dealerships will do anything to sell cars, and that includes selling cars to people with horrible credit and a repossessed car on their credit report. I bought this car with no money down, which in retrospect, is the stupidest financial decision I’ve made since I began my financial recovery.
Still, it wasn’t a horrible decision — I now made a salary that could justify a car like this. Sure, I got a crappy 12% interest rate on the loan, but I eventually refinanced the loan to 10%, and a shorter term, and then I paid the loan off early, about two-and-a-half years after I first bought the car. When I called the bank to pay off the first loan (when I refinanced), they were practically begging me to take a credit card from them, seeing as I’d overpaid my car loan every single month, on time, for the life of the loan. But still, I wouldn’t break my ‘no credit cards’ rule, and I refused.
Renting an apartment was another thing I was scared to do with bad credit, but it turned out easier than I thought, as well. I got my first new apartment with my ruined credit when I moved to San Francisco. I decided to share a place with a friend of a friend. We found a two-bedroom place listed on Craigslist, and went to see it. It was a four unit building, quite common in San Francisco, owned by a little old Chinese lady. She didn’t care to even run a credit check. Two well-dressed young men showed up, with pay stubs indicating an above-average combined annual salary, and job titles of ‘Software Engineer’ and ‘Accountant’. She was more than happy to rent the place to us for $1800/month.
I continued my life living the way I had since I’d given up on my debt a few years ago, but now on a much larger post-college salary. I bought few toys, aside from the car and some furniture. I’d go out to eat with friends sometimes, or I’d go out for drinks occasionally with my new coworkers. I actually found money piling up in my checking account because I was making it faster than I even wanted to spend it. I had nothing I needed to buy.
After a year, my roommate took a promotion that had him moving from San Francisco to Denver. I decided that I wanted to get my own place, but $1800/month was too much for me to spend by myself. The little old lady who’d been our landlord actually asked if we’d reconsider staying, and if I could find another roommate, as we’d been such good tenants, but I told her I had to leave.
I was questioning my ability to get lucky with finding an apartment a second time, but figured I’d done it before, and I could do it again. I looked at one place I like, and decided to take it, but was turned down by the rental agency due to my bad credit. I found another place a few blocks away that actually ended up being nicer — It was an old Victorian house divided into two units, one upstairs and one downstairs. The family that owned the place lived upstairs and rented out the downstairs.
Wary because of my bad credit and previous rejection, I wrote down my story, and gave the owners my bank statement showing the money I’d accumulated in the last year I’d spent living below my means, and the phone number of the landlord that’d asked me to stay in San Francisco. In light of this information, they rented to me regardless of my credit score, and they too ended up extremely happy with me as a renter.
The road to recovery
Several years after I’d given up on my credit card bills, I was finally contacted again by one of my creditors (or really, the collection agency to which they’d sold my debt). They demanded, in a rude and threatening manner, payment in full of an outstanding debt over $10,000.
My girlfriend (now my wife), who worked at a law firm, asked a co-worker of hers to help me out. He was an attorney who had previously worked in this specific area, representing clients being sued by creditors, and had no sympathy for a threatening collection agency. With a single phone call on my behalf, he had the collection agency offering a settlement of about half their initial demand. I paid it in full from the surplus I’d been accumulating.
Slowly, over the course of several years, my other creditors would contact me, and we’d agree on a settlement like this. Eventually, the statute of limitations for them to collect on the debt through legal channels expired. After that, all I needed to mention to creditors was that I knew it was too late for anyone to sue me, and I’d have a reduced settlement offer.
Now, at the beginning of 2010, it’s been nearly seven years since this whole mess started, and these old marks are due to start dropping from my credit report soon. Surprisingly, I’ve found in the intervening time that I haven’t been impacted much at all by my poor credit — certainly not as much as you would have thought, given the emphasis the financial media puts on credit score.
I paid maybe 5% more than market value for the car I financed, not a huge deal.
I was turned down for one apartment rental.
I’ve since rented one other place, where I live now, in a manner similar to the second — it’s a privately-owned little house with landlords that live next door.
I told them my story, showed them my bank statements and pay stubs, and they were happy to rent to me, and I love it here. Aside from the lousy car interest rate and a single apartment rejection, I haven’t even noticed my poor credit score. Employers haven’t cared. Cell phone companies haven’t cared. The electric company hasn’t cared. For the most part, nobody but myself has even looked at my credit score for the past six years.
While all this has been happening, my life otherwise has been going fantastically. My career has progressed well, I make roughly four times what I did when the story started. I got married. I moved back to my hometown, which I love. I’ve been traveling a bit, to five other countries and various places in the US. My life is going as well as I could hope.
Strangely enough, I’m not sure that any of this would have happened if I hadn’t given up on those debts years ago. That began a change in lifestyle — a focus on experiences instead of things, on making do with what you have instead of needing the latest and greatest. Those lessons have shaped my life since then, and I don’t know if I would have learned them as well without going through that experience.
Final words
I was originally hesitant about sharing this story. I was afraid of being judged for the method I used to pay off my debts. I’m not proud about having done this, but at the same time, I don’t feel bad about it.
These credit card companies were willing to do everything in their power to make a profit off me. They had teams of actuaries calculating the exact interest rates and credit limits that would maximize profits from their customers, and they had the legal system at their disposal if they thought it would have been beneficial. I used the same tactics. I was never sued and in the end, I came to mutual agreements with my creditors that satisfied both parties.
Was it an ideal solution for either party? No, but once I was in in over my head, there wasn’t a realistic ‘ideal solution’. The situation was eventually salvaged, and now, years down the line, it’s water under the bridge.
Check cancellation, also known as a ‘stop payment request’, is a procedure initiated by an account holder instructing their financial institution to prevent payment on a check that has yet to be processed.
There are a variety of reasons why one might choose to cancel a check. From preventing a fraudulent check cashing, misplaced personal checks, to stop payments to an erroneous recipient, each scenario can merit a cancel request.
Risks and Limitations of Canceling a Check
Before initiating a stop payment, it’s important to understand the risks and limitations associated with this action. The most immediate consideration is the stop payment fees. Most banks and credit unions charge a fee for this service.
Additionally, there’s a time limitation for canceling a check. If the check has already been cashed or deposited into the recipient’s account, you may not be able to stop the payment. Therefore, it’s essential to act in a timely manner to ensure the effectiveness of your request.
How to Cancel a Check
Canceling a check can feel like a daunting task, especially if it’s your first time doing so. Fortunately, the process is relatively straightforward. Here’s what you need to do to cancel a check:
Verify the Check’s Status – Has It Cleared Yet?
Before initiating a stop payment request, your first step should be to determine whether the check in question has already cleared. A check that has cleared has been cashed or deposited by the recipient and the funds have been deducted from your account.
You can verify the status of your check by reviewing your transaction history through your online account or mobile banking app, or by calling your bank’s customer service. If the check has already cleared, it’s too late to stop the payment. However, if it hasn’t, you can proceed with the stop payment process. This crucial step can save you from unnecessary stop payment fees if the check has already cleared.
Contact Your Bank or Credit Union
The first step in canceling a check is to contact your financial institution promptly. Whether you bank with a credit union or a traditional banking institution, you’ll need to initiate the stop payment process as soon as you realize the need to cancel a check. Time is of the essence when it comes to preventing the payment of a potentially lost, stolen, or miswritten check.
Most financial institutions offer a variety of ways for you to contact them. This includes phone, in-person visits, online banking portals, or even mobile apps.
Information You’ll Need
Regardless of the method you choose to cancel a check, you’ll need specific information to initiate the process. Be prepared to provide the following:
Account Number
Your account number is essential in helping the bank or credit union identify which account the check is drawn from. You can typically find your account number on your bank statements, within your online account, or at the bottom of your checks.
Check Number
The check number helps the financial institution identify the exact check you wish to cancel. It can be found in the top-right corner of the check and is also printed at the bottom, right next to the account number.
Amount and Payee
You’ll need to know the exact amount the check was written for, as well as who the check was made out to, i.e., the payee. These details ensure that the bank cancels the correct check.
Confirmation of Stop Payment Request
Once you’ve provided the necessary information and initiated the stop payment request, your bank or credit union will typically provide a written confirmation of your request. This may be given in person, sent via mail, or provided digitally, depending on your chosen method of request.
This written confirmation serves as proof that you’ve requested the stop payment. It will typically include details such as the date and time of the request, the check number, and the stop payment fee (if applicable). Make sure to keep this document in a safe place for future reference.
How to Avoid Needing to Cancel a Check
While knowing how to cancel a check is important, preventing the need to do so in the first place is even more critical. Implementing safe practices when writing and issuing checks and using secure alternatives can greatly minimize potential problems.
Safe Practices When Writing and Issuing Checks
Confirm the Recipient’s Details
Before writing a check, double-check the recipient’s details. Confirm that you have spelled their name correctly and that you have the correct address if you’re mailing the check. This can prevent checks from going to the wrong address or being unable to be cashed because of a misspelled name.
Encourage Prompt Cashing
Once you’ve written the check, encourage the recipient to cash or deposit it as soon as possible. The longer a check is uncashed, the higher the risk of it being lost or stolen. Also, an uncashed check can make accounting and balance tracking more challenging, as you need to remember to account for that uncashed check in your available balance.
Use of Electronic Payment Methods
Electronic payment methods are a convenient and secure alternative to physical checks. They reduce the risk of checks being lost or stolen and eliminate the need to write checks manually. Here are a few options:
Direct Deposit
Direct deposit is a popular method for paycheck distribution but can also be used for other types of payments. It eliminates the need for a physical check and ensures that the funds reach the intended recipient’s bank account directly.
Online Banking Services
Most banks and credit unions now offer comprehensive online banking services, which include the ability to send money directly from your bank account to another. These transactions are secure and can be done from the comfort of your home or on the go. Many financial institutions even offer the ability to set up recurring payments, making it an excellent option for paying bills.
Mobile Payment Apps
Mobile payment apps have soared in popularity in recent years. Services like Venmo, PayPal, and Zelle allow users to send and receive money quickly and securely. These apps can be linked directly to your bank account or credit card and provide a convenient way to transfer funds without needing to write a check.
How much does it cost to cancel a check?
The cost to cancel a check varies by financial institution. Some banks may waive stop payment fees for premium account holders, such as those with America Advantage Relationship Banking or Citi Priority. However, for regular checking accounts or money market accounts, the stop payment fee can range anywhere from $15 to $35.
How long do you have to cancel a check?
The time frame to cancel a check depends on the specific bank or credit union. However, most financial institutions recommend that you initiate a stop payment request as soon as you realize a check needs to be cancelled. The sooner you can report a lost or stolen check, the better your chances of preventing unwanted transactions.
Can you cancel a cashier’s check?
Stopping payment on a cashier’s check is generally more complicated than stopping a regular check. Because cashier’s checks are guaranteed by the issuing bank, they are often treated as cash. However, if a cashier’s check is lost or stolen, the bank may issue a stop payment after a waiting period, typically 90 days.
Conclusion
Canceling a check is an essential skill for anyone who writes checks. It requires understanding your bank account policies, knowing how to navigate your financial institution’s website or customer service, and being proactive about spotting any potential issues with your personal checks.
Remember to keep a close eye on your transaction history and balance in your checking account or high-yield savings accounts. This will help ensure your hard-earned money stays right where it belongs. Remember, it’s not just about knowing how to cancel a check, but also knowing how to prevent the need for cancellation in the first place.