Last Updated: May 27, 2023 BY Michelle Schroeder-Gardner – 58 Comments
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Recently, I published the article Reasons You’re Still in Debt. Like I said in that article, I think the first step in eliminating debt is to realize why you are in debt in the first place.
I believe that if you don’t know what your problem with debt to begin with is, then it would be hard to make a positive change.
Yes, it is great to just start attacking your debt, but you also don’t want to fall into the same cycle of going into debt over and over again.
After you realize why you are in debt (or why you keep going back into debt), the next step is to figure out how you will eliminate your debt. There are many different ways for you to attack your debt, and I prefer a mixture of everything.
Below are different ways to get rid of your debt.
1. Stop adding to your debt.
This sounds obvious, right? Like I said earlier, if you don’t know why you are in debt, then it would be hard to stop adding to your debt.
Also, if you’re eliminating debt but also adding to it at the same time then you won’t get anywhere fast.
Different ways that you could prevent yourself to stop adding more debt include:
Canceling your credit card.
Freezing your credit card.
Asking for your credit card limit to be lowered.
Don’t take out extra student loans that you don’t need.
Think it over before you buy something.
Avoid places like the mall altogether.
2. Create a budget.
Of course this is on my list. Why wouldn’t it be? If you don’t believe in a budget but you have a lot of debt, then you better start believing.
You should create a realistic budget so that you truly know how much you are spending. Then total how much you actually bring in each month. If you are bringing in less than you are spending then a change definitely needs to be made.
A budget can also help you see where your money is going so that you know what areas you need to work on. Maybe you never realized how much you spend on food each month, how much you spend on clothing or something else.
A budget really puts that in front of you so that you know what you can cut out of your spending (or at least lower your spending in that area).
3. Cut your expenses.
To continue with what I was saying above, you may have to cut your expenses in order to have a realistic budget so that you can pay off your debt.
If you have $100,000 in credit card debt, should you really still be spending $500 a month on clothing?
Probably not.
Depending on how quickly you want to get rid of your debt, there are different things that you may want to cut out. You could cut out Starbucks (I know, I know), lower your restaurant spending, find a cheaper way to workout, sell your car for something cheaper/more affordable, cook from scratch and so on.
There are many ways to cut down your spending. Below is a quick list for you to start with:
Lower your cell phone bill. Instead of paying the $150 or more that you spend on your cell phone bill each month, there are companies out there like Republic Wireless that offer cell phone service starting at $5. YES, I SAID $5! If you use my Republic Wireless affiliate link, you can change your life and start saving thousands of dollars a year on your cell phone service. I created a full review on Republic Wireless if you are interested in hearing more. I’ve been using them for over a year and they are great.
Sign up for a website like Ebates where you can earn FREE cash back for spending like how you normally would online. When you sign up through my link, you also receive a free $10 gift card bonus to Macys, Walmart, Target, or Kohls!
Save money on food. I recently joined $5 Meal Plan in order to help me eat at home more and cut my food spending. It’s only $5 a month (the first four weeks are free too) and you get meal plans sent straight to you along with the exact shopping list you need in order to create the meals. Each meal costs around $2 per person or less. This allows you to save time because you won’t have to meal plan anymore, and it will save you money as well!
Check out my recommendations page for a full list on money-saving websites.
4. Find a way to make extra money.
Making extra income is the main thing that helped me pay off my student loans so quickly. I worked like crazy in my spare time because I knew that I could make more money than I could cut out of my budget(don’t worry, I did do both).
There is a limit to how much you can cut, but you can always find different ways to make more money.
You could find a part-time job at a restaurant, retail store, and so on. You could freelance on the side. You could babysit, dog walk, sell your crafts and so on. The list is really endless for what you could possibly do.
Miscellaneous other things you should do:
Pay more than the minimum.
Put little amounts toward your debt. For example, whenever you get an extra $25 (such as by selling something), then you should just throw that extra money that you won’t miss towards debt.
Automate your payments if you can’t force yourself to make payments.
Put money towards debt right when you get paid so that you are “paying yourself” first.
How are you eliminating your debt? When do you think you will be debt free?
When you refinance student loans, you pay off your existing loans with a new loan with new terms from a private lender. The primary benefit of refinancing is that you can save money over the life of the loan if you’re able to lower your interest rate.
While certain lenders will refinance federal and private loans together, you’ll lose access to federal benefits and protections if you refinance a federal loan, so it only makes sense if you don’t plan to use any federal programs.
So can you refinance student loans? Here’s what to know about who is eligible for refinancing, types of student loans that can be refinanced, and more.
Who Is Eligible for Student Loan Refinancing?
A borrower generally needs to meet specific credit score, income, and degree requirements to qualify for a student loan refinance. Ideally, a borrower will qualify at better terms than their existing loans, such as at a lower interest rate. As mentioned, the main goal of refinancing is to lower your interest rate so you can save money over the life of the loan.
The process of refinancing student loans involves shopping around for a lower interest rate and then filling out an application for a refinance. Once a refinance is approved, your new lender pays off your old lender. After you receive the new loan, you make payments to your new lender. Here are some of the common requirements to qualify for a student loan refinance.
Credit Score Requirement
Your credit score is a three-digit number that summarizes how well you pay back debt. For refinancing student loans, you’ll typically need to have a credit score in the high 600s to qualify.
You may need to raise your credit score before you apply for student loan refinancing. You may be able to raise your credit score by doing the following:
• Pay your bills on time
• Dispute errors on your credit report
• Keep your credit utilization rate — the amount you use on your revolving accounts such as credit cards — low compared to your total available credit
• Increase your credit limits
• Remove negative entries to your credit report (if old collection accounts show up on your credit report, request that they be removed)
Recommended: How Do Student Loans Affect Your Credit Score?
High Enough Income
Student loan lenders often require you to show proof of a certain level of income in order to qualify for a student loan refinance. They want to make sure you can repay your new loan.
They will want to know how your income compares against the amount of debt you have and they’ll calculate your debt-to-income (DTI) ratio to find out if you qualify. A DTI ratio compares the amount you owe each month to the amount of income you bring in—it’s your total monthly debt payments divided by your gross monthly income. It’s a good idea to shoot for a debt-to-income (DTI) of under 50%, though a lower DTI (such as under 35%) is even better.
Wondering “Can I refinance my student loans if I don’t have a high enough DTI ratio?” To improve your DTI ratio, consider making more payments toward your debt, avoid taking on more debt, increase your income, and postpone making large purchases so you’re not using as much of your credit.
Degree Requirements
In most cases, you’ll have to have a degree or leave college in order to qualify for a refinance. Some lenders won’t allow a refinance if you attended a school that didn’t allow students to accept federal aid dollars.
What Types of Student Loans Can Be Refinanced?
Can you refinance private student loans? Can you refinance federal student loans? Yes, if you choose a lender that refinances both, but note that you can only refinance with a private lender — you cannot refinance federal loans and private loans into a new federal loan. (When you combine several federal student loans into a single loan through the federal government, that’s federal student loan consolidation, which is different from refinancing and generally doesn’t save you money.)
Private Student Loans
Private student loans are issued by a credit union, bank, or online lender, not the federal government. They typically carry a higher interest rate compared to the interest rate on federal student loans.
You may be able to get a lower interest rate on your existing private student loans if you refinance. You may want to consider prequalifying for a loan, which means that a lender will do a soft credit check. Checking with several lenders can help you compare the interest rates among lenders. It might be a good idea to consider refinancing private student loans if you know you’ll get a lower interest rate. A student loan refinance calculator tool for comparing refinance rates can help.
Federal Student Loans
Federal student loans come directly from the federal government and specifically, from the U.S. Department of Education. Can you refinance federal student loans? Yes, but refinancing your federal student loans turns your student loans into private student loans—and you’ll lose access to federal benefits and protections.
When you refinance federal student loans, you lose access to federal loan programs like income-driven repayment, which sets your payments at an amount based on your family size and income. It could also mean that you might forgo loan forgiveness, which means you don’t have to pay back some or all of your loan. You should consider whether it makes sense for you to give up these federal loan programs before you refinance.
Why You Might Consider Refinancing Your Student Loans
If your main goal is finding a way to pay less on your student loans and you’re able to find a lower interest rate on your student loans, refinancing might make a lot of sense for you.
It can also be a good option if you’re interested in merging your student loans together to simplify your payments. And if you’re sure you won’t need to access federal benefits because you have a reliable income and job security, it may also be a better option than federal student loan consolidation, which usually doesn’t end up saving you money.
Recommended: How Student Loan Refinancing Works
Why You Might Avoid Refinancing Student Loans
Despite the attraction of saving money with a possibly lower interest rate or merging several loans together, you might not want to lose out on federal student loan protections. You could lose out on temporary loan payment relief (deferment or forbearance) or loan forgiveness and discharge.
Losing out on federal student benefits may hurt you later on. Be sure to consider what you’ll do if you lose your job or have trouble making your student loan payments down the road.
Can You Refinance Student Loans While Still in School?
You may not be able to refinance your student loans while you’re still in school. However, your best bet is to ask your lender directly. Refinancing with a co-signer may help you improve your application and secure better terms.
If you decide you want to go for it, you can submit a formal application, which includes the lender looking into details like the ones listed above, like income degree requirements and personal details. At this point, a lender does a hard credit check. Once your old loan is closed, you’ll then make regular payments to your new lender.
Student Loan Refinancing With SoFi
Looking to lower your monthly student loan payment? Refinancing may be one way to do it — by extending your loan term, getting a lower interest rate than what you currently have, or both. (Please note that refinancing federal loans makes them ineligible for federal forgiveness and protections. Also, lengthening your loan term may mean paying more in interest over the life of the loan.) SoFi student loan refinancing offers flexible terms that fit your budget.
With SoFi, refinancing is fast, easy, and all online. We offer competitive fixed and variable rates.
FAQ
Can you refinance your student loans if you didn’t graduate?
Yes, you can refinance your student loans if you didn’t earn a degree, though it may be more difficult. Ask various lenders the same question: “Can I refinance my student loans?” and learn more about your refinancing options. If you have federal student loans, you can also look into other options to reduce your monthly repayment amount, such as extending your loan term (although you’ll end up paying more in interest over the life of the loan) or explore whether you might qualify for an income-driven repayment program or forgiveness. Contacting your loan servicer is a good place to start.
What credit score do you need to be able to refinance student loans?
Every lender is different and requires different requirements to be able to refinance. Your personal qualifications also matter. However, in general, it’s important to have a credit score in the high 600s in order to qualify for a refinance. Ask lenders for more information before you make a final decision. You may also want to use a calculator tool for comparing refinance rates.
Can both federal and private student loans be refinanced?
You’re asking good questions if you’re wondering, “Can I refinance federal student loans?” or “Can I refinance private student loans?” The quick answer is that yes, both federal and private student loans can be refinanced, but you must refinance both types into a private student loan, and you’ll lose access to federal benefits and protections if you refinance federal student loans.
Photo credit: iStock/Andrii Sedykh
SoFi Student Loan Refinance If you are looking to refinance federal student loans, please be aware that the White House has announced up to $20,000 of student loan forgiveness for Pell Grant recipients and $10,000 for qualifying borrowers whose student loans are federally held. Additionally, the federal student loan payment pause and interest holiday has been extended beyond December 31, 2022. Please carefully consider these changes before refinancing federally held loans with SoFi, since the amount or portion of your federal student debt that you refinance will no longer qualify for the federal loan payment suspension, interest waiver, or any other current or future benefits applicable to federal loans. If you qualify for federal student loan forgiveness and still wish to refinance, leave unrefinanced the amount you expect to be forgiven to receive your federal benefit.
CLICK HERE for more information.
Notice: SoFi refinance loans are private loans and do not have the same repayment options that the federal loan program offers such as Income-Driven Repayment plans, including Income-Contingent Repayment or PAYE. SoFi always recommends that you consult a qualified financial advisor to discuss what is best for your unique situation.
SoFi Loan Products SoFi loans are originated by SoFi Bank, N.A., NMLS #696891 (Member FDIC). For additional product-specific legal and licensing information, see SoFi.com/legal. Equal Housing Lender.
Disclaimer: Many factors affect your credit scores and the interest rates you may receive. SoFi is not a Credit Repair Organization as defined under federal or state law, including the Credit Repair Organizations Act. SoFi does not provide “credit repair” services or advice or assistance regarding “rebuilding” or “improving” your credit record, credit history, or credit rating. For details, see the FTC’s website .
Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances.
Checking Your Rates: To check the rates and terms you may qualify for, SoFi conducts a soft credit pull that will not affect your credit score. However, if you choose a product and continue your application, we will request your full credit report from one or more consumer reporting agencies, which is considered a hard credit pull and may affect your credit.
Home buyers and sellers are mostly on the sidelines right now.
Most homeowners with mortgages are sporting “golden handcuffs,” afraid to sell and give up interest rates that are many percentage points better than the current market.
With little available supply, prices that remain expensive and mortgage rates that are much higher than they were in recent years, buyers are waiting out the market.
The common denominator, of course, is those mortgage rates. When will they go down? That’s what a listener of the Clark Howard Podcast recently asked.
When Will Mortgage Rates Go Down? And How Far Will They Dip?
Do you think mortgage rates will fall?
That’s what a Clark listener wondered on the May 23 podcast episode.
Asked Aimee in Florida: “I’m a teacher and single mom in a fast-growing part of Florida. I want to sell my 100-year-old house since it’s worth double what I paid (about $170,000 in profit).
“Obviously it’s not a great time to turn around and buy again. How long would I have before capital gains tax to rent somewhere and hope the interest rates will come down? Do you think they will?”
Want to make an educated guess about mortgage rates in order to inform your housing decisions? Watch the monthly CPI number that the U.S. government uses to define inflation, Clark says.
As long as that number continues to decline, expect mortgage rates to follow.
“Mortgage rates are never going back to the artificially-manipulated 2% range barring some extremely unexpected event in the world,” Clark says. “Inflation is continuing to go down. Hopefully that trend line will continue.
“And so mortgage rates should settle lower than they are now. I’m putting this guess in the complete danger category. But I think we could see rates back in the 5s again. Very unlikely back in the 4s. Could be 15-year loans go back into the 4s.”
Clark noted that the Federal Reserve interest rates are slightly above the rate of inflation now, “which is where they should be.”
What the Collective Market Says About Future Rates
After peaking at a year-over-year increase of 9.1%, U.S. inflation fell below 5% in April for the first time in two years.
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The Fed hiked the effective interest rate to a range of 5% to 5.25% on May 3.
There’s some disagreement between what the Fed has been signaling in their public comments and market predictions. Investors still think that the Fed could cut interest rates as soon as this year, potentially to curtail a recession.
However, the two-year Treasury rates just climbed from 3.75% to 4.24% in less than three weeks. Meanwhile, the five-year and 10-year rates sit at 3.76% and 3.70% respectively. So the market is predicting rates to be 1.25% to 1.5% lower than they are now within the next two to five years.
According to Bankrate, the average 30-year fixed mortgage features an APR of 7.15% and the average 15-year fixed mortgage sits at 6.52%.
So you can see how market data supports Clark’s prediction of mortgage rates falling into the 5% range within the next couple of years, and maybe a touch below 5% for 15-year fixed mortgages.
Why Mortgage Rate Watchers Should Pay Attention to the Fed
The best indication of what’s going to happen will come from the Fed, which will meet five more times this year.
For a time this spring, the Fed signaled it may pause interest rate hikes. That coincided with several major bank failures and ongoing contagion concerns within the banking sector.
But the Fed also vowed to prioritize squeezing inflation out of the economy when it started hiking rates in March 2022. And it recently left the door open for it to continue hiking rates. Inflation has not been falling as swiftly. And at 4.9%, it’s still not close to the Fed’s stated goal of 2%.
If the Fed continues hiking rates longer than the market anticipates, you may have to wait longer for mortgage rates to decline. The opposite is also true.
Capital Gains Taxes on Real Estate
If you’ll recall, Aimee also was worried about potential capital gains taxes on the profit from a potential home sale.
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There’s great news for her on that front.
“Aimee, from the way you phrased the question, this is the house you live in. So you pocket that money tax-free. If you have a gain of up to $250,000 as a single individual, $500,000 as a couple, you just pocket that money,” Clark says.
“You don’t have to buy another property as long as you’ve been in it two years or longer. Two of the last five years. This $170,000 is tax-free money to you. And you can rent as long as you want after that.
“There used to be the rule that you had to buy a new place within a period of time. People were gaming that so much Congress finally was like, ‘Let’s make this simple,’ and came up with this new system that you just pocket the money. It’s almost like a house has become its own version of a Roth IRA if you live in the house.’”
Final Thoughts
If you’re part of the crowd that wants to buy a house but you’re waiting for better mortgage rates, you’ve got mixed news.
It’s highly unlikely that mortgage rates will revert back to historic numbers of 2-3%. However, based on all current data, there’s a pretty good chance that a 15-year fixed rate will flirt with dipping below 5% by the end of 2025.
You may save in the neighborhood of 1.5% on your mortgage rate if you can wait another few years, although that’s never guaranteed. And Clark has also predicted that home prices will stagnate for a few years.
In other words, it should be a better time to buy a home in a few years. But don’t expect some dramatic occurrence where you can get a 3% mortgage rate and 30% off of current home prices.
Since the mid-1990s, inflation has stayed very close to the Federal Reserve’s benchmark of 2% per year, often dipping much lower than that. The upshot has been a long run in which prices have changed little from year to year, with the noticeable exception of an 8% overall jump in 2022. Fortunately, current inflation has largely stabilized and, while still high compared with recent years and the Federal Reserve’s target rate, is back within overall historic norms. All told this has created an environment in which consumers don’t usually think about changing prices all that often.
For retirees, on the other hand, the picture is very different. They have to think in terms of years and decades. For them, inflation is a very powerful force. As prices rise decade over decade it can meaningfully eat away at your retirement savings unless you have prepared in advance. A financial advisor can help you better protect your retirement savings from the effects of inflation and plan for the future.
What Is Inflation?
Inflation measures changing prices in the marketplace. Specifically, it measures how prices increase for the same goods and services over time. For example, when the price of milk increases from $2.85 per gallon to $4.04 per gallon, that’s inflation. The opposite effect, when prices fall, is known as deflation and it is counterintuitively a borderline disaster for most households and consumers.
There are as many ways to measure inflation as there are economists, but the standard measure is known as the Consumer Price Index or CPI. It measures how prices change on an annual basis for a representative group of goods and services across the United States, omitting energy prices and agricultural products. These last two, while essential to household spending, are left out of the inflation statistics because they’re extremely vulnerable to geopolitical and natural events, respectively.
Economists consider a little bit of inflation beneficial. It shows that the economy is producing at capacity, which encourages growth. This is why the Federal Reserve has its inflation benchmark set at 2%, not zero.
For most households, inflation is reflected in both costs and incomes. As prices rise, employers typically increase pay scales to compensate. This is why economists treat inflation as such an emergency because it can create a feedback loop of rising incomes and prices with no natural stopping point. This also makes inflation, under ordinary circumstances, a minor issue. Most households don’t notice small price adjustments over short time frames and pay increases help them keep up over the long run.
Costs of Living in Retirement
In retirement, your basic math is simple: money in vs. money out. If your retirement accounts can generate more money than you spend, you can afford to retire.
The problem with inflation is that it gradually changes the math in this formula. Each year, your “money out” gets a little bit more expensive. Up front, it’s hard to notice. If a gallon of milk goes up by $0.02, that doesn’t stand out. But in the aggregate, these changes add up. For example, say that your costs come to $5,000 in spending per month. With 2% inflation, the next year you would spend $5,100 per month. The year after that, $5,202. The year after that, $5,306.
Even with just a 2% annual price increase, within just three years of retirement, you’re spending $300 more per month than you initially budgeted. And since retirement lasts for decades, inflation has plenty of time to set in.
Some Areas Are Particularly Vulnerable
One of the biggest things to remember about inflation is that it often hits some areas harder than others. For example, a disproportionate and large amount of 2022’s high inflation came courtesy of astronomical prices in the used and rental car markets. For retirees, this can be a double-edged sword depending on how you have structured your finances. You might be safe from some of the worst sectors or you might be particularly exposed.
A few costs of living that are particularly vulnerable to inflation and price swings are:
Housing: In recent decades the cost of housing has risen sharply. If you own a home, whether it’s paid off or on a fixed mortgage, you’re safe from these rising costs. If you rent, particularly in a big city, this will be a huge cost sector as prices go up year-over-year.
Energy and food: These two sectors are omitted from the core inflation measure because they’re extremely volatile. However, that volatility tends to make them particularly sensitive to inflation across the marketplace at large. That’s a particularly big problem because, ultimately, utilities and groceries make up the bulk of most households’ bottom line and just because they’re not in the BLS’ official report doesn’t mean you won’t feel the squeeze.
Imports: Historically, imported goods tend to experience inflation earlier and sooner than most other products in the marketplace. If you buy or rely on products brought in from overseas, this will show up in your budget.
Travel: If you want to travel in your retirement, inflation can make that more expensive. Airfare often jumps during periods of inflation and if you are leaving the country a weaker dollar will make your trip that much more expensive.
Savings and Social Security
Most retirees rely on three sources of income for the “money in” side of their retirement: savings, investments and Social Security. Let’s take a look at each.
Savings: Savings generally refers to the money you have in cash or cash-like assets. Basically, this refers to the money you have in banking products like checking, savings and certificates of deposit. The appeal of keeping money in savings is a certainty. Just putting everything into a savings account is about the lowest-risk option short of buying Treasury bonds. However, it also exposes your money to near-constant erosion. This feels like the safe option, but keeping all your money in the bank is a good way to effectively lost it little by little rather than all at once.
Low-Risk Investments: Low-risk investments tend to include assets like bonds and annuities. These are the middle ground between growth and safety. You want some growth but are willing to sacrifice potential gains for the confidence that you’ll get your money back. These are a mixed bag when it comes to long-term inflation management. The biggest problem is that low-risk investments often define their gains up-front.
Higher-Reward Investments: The most common footprint for a high-reward investment in stocks is either buying shares of an individual company or buying into industry or index funds. These are the growth end of the risk-reward balance. You will get the strongest returns but with the most risk. High-reward investments are the best way to manage inflation in the long run, since strong returns are the best way to keep your investments current with rising prices.
Social Security: Finally, most retiree households depend on Social Security to one degree or another. When it comes to inflation, this is the good news. Each year the Social Security Administration issues its annual COLA or “Cost of Living Adjustment.” This increases the monthly benefits issued to all recipients based on the government’s benchmark inflation rate. The COLA is based on national inflation figures. When prices go up, they tend to increase more in some areas than in others.
How To Address Inflation
So this is what inflation does. It tends to erode the value of low-growth assets and income as prices increase faster than the value of investments. Here are two things you can do to address inflation.
1. Manage Investments
The best way to address inflation in your retirement is to plan for it upfront. Specifically, build your retirement portfolio with inflation in mind. This can mean a few different things, such as investing in:
All of these assets tend to be sensitive to inflation. Stocks and REITs tend to grow with the value of the market, as companies increase their prices to keep pace with inflation. Short-term bonds, meanwhile, mature every few years, allowing you to reinvest in new assets that may better reflect current pricing. And some annuities offer an inflation-adjusted payment schedule, allowing you to plan for long-term growth in your returns.
2. Manage Costs
The biggest issue here is housing. The cost of housing has soared in recent decades and that fever shows no serious signs of breaking. This is most prominent in the rental market. Buying a home before you enter retirement, even if that means downsizing from your apartment, can help you secure your housing costs going forward.
If you own a paid-off home, you won’t have to plan for housing payments. If you start a mortgage prior to retirement, you will at least have fixed rather than escalating costs. Beyond that, prepare a good cash reserve for the wide fluctuations common to the energy and food sectors. These two areas are most prone to volatile price swings, both up and down, during periods of inflation.
The Bottom Line
Inflation can significantly eat away at your retirement savings. It’s important to build a retirement plan that anticipates enough growth to offset this, otherwise, you can see your quality of life decline as your bills get more expensive year after year. It’s important to take the necessary steps to protect your retirement savings.
Inflation Management Tips
The other best way to make plans is with good, solid help. A financial advisor can help you determine how inflation will impact your ability to save what you will need for retirement. Finding a financial advisor doesn’t have to be hard. SmartAsset’s free tool matches you with up to three vetted financial advisors who serve your area, and you can have a free introductory call with your advisor matches to decide which one you feel is right for you. If you’re ready to find an advisor who can help you achieve your financial goals, get started now.
The best way to make plans is with hard, solid numbers. Run your retirement plans through our inflation calculator to get a sense of whether you’re on the right track.
Eric Reed
Eric Reed is a freelance journalist who specializes in economics, policy and global issues, with substantial coverage of finance and personal finance. He has contributed to outlets including The Street, CNBC, Glassdoor and Consumer Reports. Eric’s work focuses on the human impact of abstract issues, emphasizing analytical journalism that helps readers more fully understand their world and their money. He has reported from more than a dozen countries, with datelines that include Sao Paolo, Brazil; Phnom Penh, Cambodia; and Athens, Greece. A former attorney, before becoming a journalist Eric worked in securities litigation and white collar criminal defense with a pro bono specialty in human trafficking issues. He graduated from the University of Michigan Law School and can be found any given Saturday in the fall cheering on his Wolverines.
When I was a freshman in college, I did two very bad things (ahem — two bad things related to personal finance).
Bad Thing #1
First, I opened a VISA credit card. There was a guy at a booth on campus, and being too naive and timid to tell him to buzz off, I stopped and listened to his pitch. Next thing I knew I was filling out an application. At 18 years old, with no job, steady income, or credit history, I now had a $1,000 credit line. I maxed it out in less than three months and was shocked when the bill arrived.
Luckily, I was about to start a part-time job, so I was comforted in knowing I could handle this predicament myself. I paid down the balance — but then charged it up again. This cycle went on for years. I always paid more than the minimum, but never fully paid off the debt.
Bad Thing #2
The second very bad thing I did was open a store credit card with a major retailer. I was about to pay for my purchase (with the aforementioned VISA, of course), and the salesperson told me I could save money and receive special offers and free items just for signing up for a card. I demurred, but she was persistent. “You can pay it off as soon as you get home and still get the coupons and discounts,” she said. “That’s what I do.”
Unfortunately, it didn’t work out that way for me. I forgot I’d opened the card, somehow missed the first bill, and then was late with my payment. I was almost three months delinquent before I paid off the card, and I got a mark on my credit report, all for a small balance I could have easily covered with money in my bank account.
The Cost of Store Credit Cards
Cashiers are often required to ask customers to sign up for store credit, and some stores require them to meet a quota for new card sign-ups. But these days, I politely tell the cashier, “I don’t carry store credit cards.” If they persist, I repeat myself. “Don’t you want to save 10%?” No thank you, I’d rather not.
A recent study from New York Representative Anthony Weiner’s office provides even more reason to avoid store branded cards. The study found that 35 major New York City stores had an average interest rate of 23.83% on store cards (the national average APR for a regular credit card is 14.78%). Which stores offered the worst rates?
Radio Shack was the highest with a 28.99% APR.
Best Buy and Staples both charge 27.99% interest rates.
Home Depot charged 25.99%.
Sears came in at a hefty 25.24%.
In addition, the report found that store cards use a series of “teaser” deals to entice shoppers to take the bait, such as offering 0% interest, but neglecting to mention you have pay off the balance within a certain time period or else the interest rate is applied retroactively on the initial purchase price.
How I Got Suckered into Opening a Store Credit Card
Well, despite knowing all this, here’s the story of how I got suckered into opening a store credit card and what I learned from it.
It was the best of experiences, it was the worst of experiences… Last week, I ventured into Neiman Marcus for the first time. It was the only in-person store that carried the Stuff I wanted, so I drove out of my way to go there. The salesperson who helped me was probably one of the best I’ve ever encountered. She knew I wasn’t spending much — about $60 — but she spent a considerable about of time helping me. She was friendly, extremely knowledgeable, and showed me other products she thought I’d like without pushing me to buy more. Instead, she offered to send me home with samples of her additional recommendations. As she put everything into a bag, the second salesperson helped to start the check-out process, which went something like this:
Salesperson #2: Do you want to put this on your Neiman’s charge card?
Me: No, I don’t carry store credit cards. (I hand her my MasterCard.)
Salesperson #2: We don’t take MasterCard, but it takes just a few minutes to open a store account.
Me: No thanks, I don’t open store cards. Can I put it on a Visa debit card?
Salesperson #2: We don’t take Visa, either.
Me: If you don’t take Visa or MasterCard, what do you take?
Salesperson #2: We take the Neiman’s card, American Express, cash, and checks.
I didn’t have enough cash on me, I don’t carry checks, and I don’t have an American Express card. The first salesperson seemed too uncomfortable to push me into opening an account, so salesperson #2 continued with the pitch, telling me most of what I knew already — that I won’t have to pay interest if I pay my balance each month and that the card comes with all kinds of “fabulous” rewards. She also told me that Neiman’s will never sell my personal information (this, of course, turns out to be false).
The Lowdown on Neiman’s
I found out later that Neiman’s does take Visa and MasterCard, but only for online purchases. It’s even willing to temporarily relax its rules during Super Bowl XLV “to make it easier for customers visiting from out of town…or from cities that don’t have a Neiman Marcus store.” Gee, how thoughtful!
According to Slate, the private-label credit card corner was one one of the most desired parts of the business when it sold during a 2005 auction (HSBC purchased the credit card portfolio in mid-2005 for $640 million.) At the time, there were 562,000 active users paying 15% APR — generating about $550 million in receivables for the company.
I knew store credit was big business, but I’d never encountered a store that doesn’t accept major credit cards to push customers into opening a store credit line.
Under Pressure
Back to my in-store experience: I was feeling cornered and conned. My first thought was to walk away. Now that I knew exactly what I needed, I could purchase the item from another retailer online.
But here’s the thing: I wouldn’t know what to buy if it hadn’t been for salesperson #1, the person who spent a lot of time helping me even though she knew I wasn’t spending much money. She more than earned her commission, and I felt bad about walking out. There weren’t any ATMs nearby, and I had an appointment in about 15 minutes. I was feeling pressured. On the other hand, I was mad and felt as though I’d walked into a trap.
I caved, and I opened the account to make the purchase. But I’m calling Neiman Marcus to pay the balance and cancel the card.
I know Neiman’s won’t miss my business — I’m hardly their target customer. For example, one of the benefits of “Circle Two” membership (for the busiest of Neiman’s charge card users) is fur storage, which made me giggle. I’m the kind of gal who worries that someone might mistake her faux fur coat for the real thing. The cover of the InCircle member brochure asks, “Are you a member of the in crowd?” Uh, no. Not usually.
Lessons Learned
In retrospect (and sarcasm aside), there were better ways to handle the situation that would have given the salesperson credit for the sale and would have avoided me opening a store card I absolutely do not want.
When I told my husband what had happened, he had the perfect solution: “You could’ve asked the salesperson for her name and told her you’d come back to pay in cash.”
Yes, that is exactly what I should have done. But when I was in the situation, I wasn’t thinking clearly. I felt pressured, irritated, and that I had to make a choice right then and there, when I really didn’t.
(Also, I was reminded that I should carry at least one paper check with me. I used to do this, but fell out of the habit because it was so rare that I ever needed one. Now I’ve tucked one into my wallet again to have one more payment option.)
I never, ever thought I’d open a store card. I’m disappointed that I let it happen, but at least I can amend the situation. I certainly now understand, from firsthand experience, how tricky retailers can be when it comes to pressuring consumers into opening store credit cards.
Are All Store Credit Cards Bad?
The mark on my credit report is long gone, but it was a sobering lesson about the dangers of credit, especially for someone with little personal finance education (or income). When I graduated from high school, I could easily find the limit of a function as x approaches a constant, yet I didn’t know about compound interest. My personal finance education began years later when I started lurking here at GRS.
I haven’t carried a credit card balance in years, and I consider myself a reformed and responsible consumer. I’m also not completely opposed to store credit. If I were remodeling a house, for example, maybe I’d consider a Home Depot card for the initial discount. Then I’d cut up the card and pay the balance immediately (as in the minute I got home) with cash I’d saved in a “home remodel” savings account.
I realize most GRS readers are savvy with their credit, but as stores ramp up their high-pressure holiday pitches, it’s important to be on guard. By and large, these cards aren’t worth the hassle or the risk. Credit is serious business, not something to sign up for on the spur of the moment without reading the fine print.
Pets are like your children, and just as you would ensure your little one’s oral health, you can’t ignore your pet’s dental health either.
Admittedly, dental issues can be costly for pets as they are for humans. That’s one crucial reason for getting a pet insurance plan covering every dental illness or accident.
So, if you’re planning to get the best pet insurance for dogs and cats, welcome to the perfect guide for all pet owners. Below we mention all you must know about pet dental insurance when buying a pet insurance policy.
Though, before we delve deeper, let’s first discuss the vital million-dollar question: whether your pet insurance coverage can include dental care or not.
What’s Ahead:
Can pet insurance plans cover dental care?
Typically, pet insurance companies don’t consider coverage for dental illnesses or a dental disease as a standard clause. Therefore, if you want accident and illness coverage, you have to buy the special pet insurance explicitly designed for dental coverage.
Or, you can do your research and contact a pet insurance company offering dental coverage as a preliminary to all pet owners. Pet insurance providers like Healthy Paws understand the significance of dental cleanings and how painful gum disease can be if not prevented- or treated- at the right time.
Whatever insurance plan you opt for, you need to check the kind of dental coverage. For instance, some pet dental insurance plans may include dental injuries, while some like Health Paws can cover extensive treatments like tooth extractions.
In addition, one pet insurance plan may cover the dental issues of pets under three years of age. In contrast, other pet insurance plans might cover dental treatment only if your pet received its annual dental exam within the previous 13 months. Therefore, you must check all these clauses before getting an insurance plan covering your pet’s dental hygiene.
We’re not exaggerating when we claim that it’s always safer and more rewarding to look for your pet’s dental insurance coverage. If you need more convincing, let’s head on to understand the benefits of buying coverage for pet dental care.
Why get dental insurance for your pet?
One of the top benefits of having pet health insurance with dental coverage is safety. You can have a peaceful state of mind because you can stay ready for dental issues in dogs like gingivitis and periodontal disease. Additionally, you never know when your pet might require a tooth extraction or treatment for periodontal disease.
Furthermore, cats’ dental accident and illness coverage include preventive dental care for deciduous teeth and routine teeth cleanings. These covered expenses ensure your adorable pet cat ages healthily.
Thus, having insurance to cover gum disease and your pet’s overall oral health is blissfully assuring and pocket-friendly. That’s vital, considering even preventive care and tooth cleaning can put quite a dent in your bank accounts otherwise.
What does pet dental coverage include?
Dental insurance coverage can vary, primarily depending on what American pet insurance company you get the insurance policy from. Usually, there are two categories for a pet’s dental health insurance: dental accidents and illnesses.
While some insurance firms may offer protection against accidents, others may cover dental illness only. And if you contact to get an insurance policy including both dental services, you can expect reimbursements for dental treatments for:
Gum disease
Root canals
Crowns
Damaged teeth
Gingivitis
Stomatitis
Tooth extractions
Dental procedures your pet insurance may not cover
While pet insurance for dental health can be quite comprehensive, insurance providers like Lemonade and other credible firms often don’t cover every dental disease or problem. Some general exclusions include:
Pre-existing conditions occurring before your pet insurance plan even started
Orthodontic, cosmetic, or endodontic dental treatments like fillings and implants
Regular treatments like routine teeth cleanings and routine dental care
Here’s a disclaimer:
Pet owners often consider getting pet oral care insurance to get reimbursements for tasks like routine dental cleanings. Some individuals even aim to get compensated for their pet’s dental illness with pre-existing conditions.
However, you must understand that pet insurance cover primarily includes injury and illness coverage to save you from expensive treatments. But routine dental cleaning is your responsibility as a pet owner.
While periodontal disease is unexpected and can happen for several reasons, cosmetic surgeries are a luxury, and pet teeth cleaning is your job. Ignoring teeth cleaning shows a lack of responsibility.
Poor dental health can lead to painful dental illnesses like gum diseases and eventually any periodontal disease, damaging your pet’s tissues and bones.
Because now, it’s not a matter of regular dental cleaning but gum issues, some pet owners think they can get reimbursed for this dental disease. But it’s not always the case. Insurance providers like Lemonade assess your pet’s dental claims and evaluate past treatments and health conditions before accepting and compensating for your claims.
Tips for managing your pet’s dental problems like a pro
Although having pet dental care insurance means reimbursement for costly dental disease, saving you from piling healthcare debts.
It’s still preferable to keep the costs low by incorporating effective medical care for your pets.
The tips below will help you manage your pet’s dental problems like a pro and keep their smile healthy and shining.
1. Feed them a dental diet
There are specially formulated foods that can help reduce tartar and plaque buildup on your pet’s teeth. These diets usually have ingredients that are abrasive enough to scrub away at the build-up while also containing ingredients that fight bacteria and support overall dental health.
2. Schedule regular checkups and cleanings
Regular checkups with your vet are necessary to keep an eye on your pet’s dental health. Your vet will be able to spot any developing problems, such as tartar buildup or gum inflammation, early on so that they can be treated promptly before they become more severe.
3. Brush their teeth at home
Brushing your pet’s teeth is one of the most effective ways to keep their smile healthy and clean. You can purchase toothpaste specifically formulated for pets, or you can use a small amount of human toothpaste on your finger to gently rub their teeth and gums.
4. Give them dental treats
There are a variety of dental treats available that can help reduce tartar buildup and promote overall dental health. These treats usually have ingredients that fight bacteria and support healthy gums.
5. Use water additives
Water additives are designed to help reduce plaque and tartar buildup on your pet’s teeth. Simply add the recommended amount to their water bowl and let them drink as usual.
Proceeding with your pet’s dental claims against accidents and illnesses
Buying your pet’s oral insurance policy isn’t a smooth sail. Problems arise when you don’t skim through the insurance coverage and face hassles at the time of claim settlement. Therefore, as you sign up for the insurance, be sure to ask the firm about three essential questions:
if your policy covers both dental injury and illness or any one of them
if you will have to pay more when making a claim
if there are additional limits apart from the veterinary fees
That helps you assess when and if applying for a claim is beneficial and when you’re more likely to get reimbursed.
Usually, there aren’t special instructions for filing an oral health insurance claim. But some policies may ask your pet to fulfill minimum age or dental examination requirements. Therefore, it’s better to clarify these potential limitations beforehand.
Pet insurance claims are almost like human health insurance claims. You can pay for the vet bills and submit the claim form with the attached relevant documents. And then receive the reimbursed amount for covered expenses by your insurance provider.
Or, you can check if your insurance provider pays to vets directly once your claim is approved. But for that, you’ll first need to check if the vets accept this form of payment or not.
Summary
Managing your pet’s oral routine is as important as ensuring its physical health. Of course, brushing your pet’s teeth every day doesn’t mean complete protection from dental illnesses or untimely accidents. And if you fear the high vet bills for such treatments, having pet insurance with dental coverage is even more vital for you.
Hopefully, the information mentioned above managed to clarify your concerns regarding pet insurance and dental coverage. What are you waiting for now? Research the dental policies of pet insurance companies and choose the one that offers coverage for both- oral health illnesses and accidents.
Last Updated: May 25, 2023 BY Michelle Schroeder-Gardner – 54 Comments
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you. Please read my disclosure for more info.
Last month, I published Frugality And Ethics – When Is It Stealing? The post was very popular and everyone had an opinion on what was stealing and what was not. Also, many of you gave me new ideas, and I wanted to hear everyone’s input on the situations below. So, I, of course, wanted to publish a Part 2 to the post!
I don’t think that there is anything wrong with saving money (this is a personal finance blog after all), but I do wonder how far people will go to save money – whether it be $1 or $2 or a few hundred dollars.
No one is perfect, and I definitely am not. However, when does frugality or cheapness cross the line and turn into stealing?
Using another person’s wi-fi.
This is something that probably a lot of people are guilty of, or have been guilty of in the past. This is where you use someone else’s wi-fi so that you can get on the internet for free.
Some of you said that if there is no password to the internet account, that it’s free range for anyone to use.
However, I think that you should always pay for your own wi-fi. You might be slowing down the internet for someone else, and they might not even realize that their wi-fi isn’t password protected.
Always protect your wi-fi account!– I also remember discussing a case when I was in college about someone who had unprotected wi-fi and it turned out that their neighbor was searching something illegal. The SWAT team showed up at their door, created a huge scene, took the computers, and destroyed the person’s house all because the neighbor was searching something illegal.
Sharing accounts with others.
This is where someone has an account and multiple people/households share that one account so that only one person is actually paying for the service or product. I have heard of many people doing this with Netflix…
Netflix and other companies have specifically stated that it’s stealing, so yes, I believe it is stealing.
Drinks at a restaurant.
There are three different situations that I would like to share with this one…
1. Paying for one drink and sharing it between two people. The first person might order a soda and the second person orders a water. However, the second person never actually touches the water and only drinks the soda. – I think this is stealing.
2. Asking for a water cup but filling it up with something besides water (such as a soda). – I think this is stealing.
3. Asking for water, a bowl of lemons (I’m talking 4 or 5 whole lemons), and sugar so that you can make your own lemonade. – I think this is being cheap/frugal. I wouldn’t do this though… I know waiters and waitresses hate it when customers do this.
Signing up for something to get something for free.
There are a couple of situations that this applies to. This is when you sign up for something knowing that you won’t buy anything, so that you can get a product or service for free for trying something out. Since Wes used to work in sales, I wouldn’t do either of the situations below just because I don’t like to waste people’s time…
My first example applies to timeshares. Many people listen to timeshare presentations even though they know they will not buy a timeshare, so that they can get whatever it is for free that the timeshare workers are pitching (free movie tickets, free vacation, etc.).
My second example applies to getting professional makeup done. Usually makeup counters/companies at the mall and/or department store will offer free makeup applications as long as you buy something for from them. Some require that you pay upfront, whereas others give you the “option” to pay at the end. I have heard of some people getting a free makeup application knowing full well that they do not plan on buying any makeup afterwards.
Learn more at How To Get Rid Of A Timeshare – Stop Wasting Your Money!
Taking condiments.
This is where you go to a restaurant and take a bunch of condiment packs so that you can bring it home and put it in your fridge.
I have received extra packs before (such as from a takeout order), but I have never gone out of my way to take condiments.
Disputing items on your credit card.
In many cases, you can dispute a transaction on your credit card bill that is less than $25 and your credit card company will just automatically refund you because it’s not worth their time to investigate the problem.
I have heard of people who dispute many transactions each year and take advantage of this…
I don’t do this. I believe it is stealing. I have only ever disputed one item on my credit card bill before, and that was because a restaurant accidentally charged me twice for the same meal.
Have you ever done any of the above? What do you think of these situations?
For over five years now, I’ve spent most of my waking hours reading and writing about money. I’ve learned a lot. Using this knowledge, I’ve been able to get out of debt, build savings, and even begin pursuing my passions. What’s next? As time passes, I find myself thinking more about financial independence and early retirement.
No surprise then that over the last couple of months I’ve been obsessed with Jacob Lund Fisker’s Early Retirement Extreme blog. And no surprise that my first book review since September is of Fisker’s book, also called Early Retirement Extreme.
Early Retirement Extreme
Imagine a personal-finance book written by a theoretical physicist. What would it be like? Full of formulas and figures, right? Well, that’s what you get with Early Retirement Extreme. But you get more, too.
Fisker’s story and style are unique. After graduating with a PhD in theoretical physics, he worked for five years as a research associate. For that five years, he saved 75% of his net (after tax) income. Fisker reached financial independence at 30 and then, at age 33, he retired. (How does Fisker define financial independence? By the time he was 30, he’d saved the equivalent of 25 years of living expenses. That’s a 25-year emergency fund.)
While many people think you need to earn big bucks to retire early, Fisker did it differently. Instead of boosting income, Fisker cut costs drastically. While drawing an average salary, he learned to live on less. Much less. He started to do things himself. (He wrote, edited, and published this book, for example.) His pre-retirement lifestyle and post-retirement lifestyle are essentially the same. Except now he doesn’t have to work.
Early Retirement Extreme feels like a book written by an engineer for other engineers. This isn’t a bad thing, but it is unique. Some people will love it; others will hate it.
Here’s a scan from page 111 to show what I mean:
While this sort of thing isn’t on every page, there’s still plenty of it in the book. Because Fisker is (or was) a theoretical physicist, his book is filled with formulas and figures. If this bugs you, Early Retirement Extreme probably isn’t a good choice. I found these passages amusing. Instead of letting the math intimidate me (my only college math course was behavioral statistics, and that was over twenty years ago), I glossed over it looking for the core concepts the book was trying to convey. (In the example above, “spend your time and energy on the things that will give you the biggest returns”.)
Note: Fisker notes that the book only has about twenty equations, and sixteen of them belong to one argument about investing. This is true. But Early Retirement Extreme does read like a textbook, and there’s other math, even when there aren’t complex calculations involved.
Fisker’s technical mind manifests itself in other ways. When writing about how to save money in the kitchen, for instance, he approaches it as an optimization problem. How do you choose what food to buy? Fisker writes, “The most optimal method is to shop for ingredients, and then, based on the ingredients one has available, determine a recipe.” In other words, start with what you have (or what’s on sale) and go from there. Learn to improvise. And optimally, you wouldn’t have a stovetop or a refrigerator. (You would have a slow cooker and a chest freezer, though.)
But Early Retirement Extreme is more than just a personal-finance book filled with formulas and figures. It’s also philosophical.
Philosophical Extreme
In many ways, Early Retirement Extreme is a book of philosophy. Fisker doesn’t set out to give you a step-by-step map to wealth; instead, he tries to give you the tools to draw your own map. He wants readers to think about their choices and about the world around them. He wants to challenge their assumptions about what’s financially feasible.
When I say this is a book of philosophy, I don’t mean that in some vague metaphorical sense. I meant it literally. To challenge his readers’ assumptions, Fisker begins the book by exploring Plato’s allegory of the cave.
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Plato’s allegory of the cave — like The Matrix for ancient Greeks
We’re like prisoners chained in a cave, Fisker says, except that we’re chained to our jobs, our expensive homes, the things we own. We don’t even realize there’s any other way to live. But it doesn’t have to be this way. “By taking the other end of the bargain, saving as much as other people are spending on wants, it’s possible to retire and live on invested savings after just five years of full-time work.”
Fisker notes that there are plenty of people who will dismiss this idea as crazy:
The most frequent objection to casting off the chains is that living on something corresponding to every third paycheck, or even every fourth paycheck ($6,000 to $10,000 a year), as opposed to living paycheck to paycheck, must be a boring life. Not knowing any better, I must admit that I started my own adventure with such assumptions.
[…]
As a lifelong consumer used to spending large amounts of money to obtain food, stuff, and entertainment, it’s hard to imagine how it’s possible to spend practically nothing on furniture, a few dollars on clothing, very little on food, almost nothing on transport, and generally less on rent/mortgage. However, it’s possible to live on a third or even a quarter of the median income, putting one solidly below the government defined poverty line, without living in austerity and eating grits.
This philosophical underpinning sets Early Retirement Extreme apart. The book (and the blog) are unlike any other financial material I’ve ever read. Yes, some books — including Your Money or Your Life or even my own Your Money: The Missing Manual — contain bits of philosophy, but not like this. At times, the philosophical bent is overwhelming.
Note: Think Early Retirement Extreme sounds too extreme? Check out these journals over at the ERE forums. Here’s where other people are documenting their experiments with this lifestyle.
Putting Theory into Practice
The first half of Early Retirement Extreme establishes a philosophical framework with which to evaluate your relationship to money. After he sets the stage, Fisker spends the last half of the book explaining how to put this theory into practice, how to work toward extreme early retirement.
In some ways, for instance, Fisker is like the opposite of Tim Ferriss. In The 4-Hour Workweek, you’ll remember, Ferriss advocated “outsourcing” as much of your life as possible in order to give yourself more time to do the things you want. Fisker thinks this is nuts.
“People spend eight hours a day for 30 years to buy electric can openers,” Fisker writes. (An electric can opener is one degree of outsourcing.) “The solution is to reverse the outsourcing of ordinary life skills and gradually insource skills that were previously acquired in the marketplace.” He urges readers to mend their own clothes, grow a garden, cook their own food, walk and bike for transportation, and so on.
Some parts of Early Retirement Extreme are brilliant. For instance, the six pages on “construction methods” (by which Fisker means using life skills to solve problems) are some of the best I’ve ever read about the value of doing things yourself. Fisker doesn’t actually tell the readers how to do anything; instead, he provides a framework for problem solving.
And I love the section on deciding which things to own. Fisker says that the stuff you buy should:
Have “appropriate quality” and a low lifetime cost.
Be durable.
Be easy to dispose of.
Be small and lightweight.
Be easy to make.
Be easy to service.
“For commonly used items,” Fisker writes, “a higher quality tends to pay off in the long run.” After years of frugality, I finally figured this out. Yes, it hurts to pay more for a quality item. But if it lasts, it’s worth it. (As Fisker notes, being willing to pay for quality is one of the differences between being frugal and cheap.)
Fisker also writes, “Only a fraction of the things we own contribute to our actual quality of life. These are the things we use on a daily basis.” Instead of owning lots of Stuff, why not focus on making sure the the things we use all the time are well made and a pleasure to use?
Note: My real millionaire next door is an example of someone who adheres closely to the lifestyle Fisker describes. Coincidence? Evidence that this works? Something else entirely?
Not Without Flaw
My chief complaint with Early Retirement Extreme is that the book could use an editor. Fisker writes well, but he tends to repeat himself at times. He uses long paragraphs. There are (minor) contradictions and typos here and there. An editor would help smooth some of these things — but an editor is anathema to Fisker’s philosophy.
Also, although Fisker writes with an authoritative and persuasive voice, I’m not convinced he’s always correct. (Fisker dismisses the need to cite his sources, but I think that makes the book weaker rather than stronger.)
The third chapter of Early Retirement Extreme, for instance, discusses “economic degrees of freedom” and includes a financial framework of Fisker’s own creation, which divides people into four categories:
The salary man — A wage earner with one source of income.
The working man — A freelancer or consultant with variable income.
The businessman — A business owner.
The Renaissance man — A generalist who makes a little money at many different things.
I’m sure these classifications make sense to Fisker, but they don’t make sense to me. I read this section several times and still the labels and differences between the groups seem arbitrary and not based on reality.
Despite my complaints — which are mostly about the book’s style, not its message — I loved Early Retirement Extreme. I don’t agree with everything, but I agree with much of it, and I admire the rest.
Early Retirement Extreme is about strategies, not tactics — it’s about the Big Picture instead of the day-to-day actions needed to retire early. As a result, some readers will be frustrated. But if you’re up to the challenge of filling in Fisker’s framework with your own details, this book could be a life changer.
Hawaii is an exciting place to call home. It offers incredible weather, scenic views, friendly people, and a slow-paced lifestyle. If you’re lucky enough to live or work in Hawaii, you might be looking for the best banks in the state.
While the Aloha State has fewer banks than other states, there are still plenty of reputable, member FDIC options available to you.
12 Best Banks in Hawaii
To make your search for a bank a bit easier, we’ve done some research and compiled this list of the best banks in Hawaii.
1. First Hawaiian Bank
First Hawaiian Bank, the oldest bank in the state, holds the distinction of having the most branches in Hawaii. This makes it a convenient choice for many people looking to open a checking account, as it provides three different options.
Their first option, Pure Checking, offers a straightforward, fee-free experience, complete with a complimentary debit card. The second, Priority Banking Gold, expands on these features by offering free checks and online bill pay, as well as discounts on loans.
For those seeking the most benefits, the Priority Banking Platinum provides an extensive list of perks, including a credit card with unlimited rewards and cash back, travel points, and no restrictions on redemption dates.
Beyond checking accounts, First Hawaiian Bank also caters to various other personal banking needs. They offer savings accounts, mortgage services, and wealth management solutions, among other things.
2. SoFi
SoFi serves as a top-notch alternative to traditional banking, catering to individuals seeking the convenience and flexibility of online banking. The SoFi Checking & Savings account offers a unique combination of checking account accessibility and high-yield savings account returns in a single, streamlined account.
There is no minimum balance requirement, no monthly fees, and no overdraft fees, positioning SoFi as a cost-effective solution for a broad spectrum of users. There’s also an enticing offer of earning up to $250 with qualifying direct deposits.
One of the most compelling aspects of SoFi is the impressive interest rates it offers. The savings account yields a 4.30% APY, while checking account balances earn 1.20% APY, both rates far outpacing those offered by most traditional banks. What’s more, deposits are insured by the FDIC up to $2 million, providing an added layer of financial security.
With SoFi Checking & Savings, accessing your money is both straightforward and convenient. Over 55,000 Allpoint® Network ATMs across the globe offer fee-free withdrawals, ensuring you can easily access your money whenever you need it.
3. Ally Bank
Ally Bank is an online bank that serves residents in every state, including Hawaii. It’s worth considering if you’re seeking an interest bearing checking account or competitive rates on high yield savings accounts, CDs, and money market accounts.
While deposit accounts are Ally’s bread and butter, the bank also offers mortgages, auto refinancing, and investment products. As an Ally account holder, you won’t have to worry about any monthly fees or minimum opening deposits.
Since Ally is an online-only bank, there are no local branches in Hawaii. Fortunately, it’s part of the Allpoint ATM network that will give you free access to more than 43,000 Allpoint ATMs. If you do use an out-of-network ATM, the bank will reimburse you up to $10 per month.
4. First American Trust
First American Trust operates one branch in Honolulu. If you have a particular interest in wealth planning, it should definitely be on your radar. It provides several wealth planning services, such as financial planning, retirement planning, and estate planning for individuals and families.
Its advisors can also help you set up a trust and protect your greatest assets. Additionally, First American Trust is a great resource if you’d like to build a diversified investment portfolio.
5. Bank of Hawaii
Headquartered in Honolulu, Bank of Hawaii is a regional bank and the second-oldest bank in the state. It serves local communities with a comprehensive suite of products and services as well as sponsorships and volunteerism. The bank’s lineup of personal banking products includes checking accounts, savings accounts, certificates of deposit (CDs), credit cards, personal loans, and insurance.
In addition, it supports small business owners with business deposit accounts, business credit cards, merchant services, and small business loans. The bank also specializes in investment services and long-term financial planning to help you meet your personal finance goals. If you’re interested in Bank of Hawaii, you can chat with a banker online or in-person at a local branch.
6. Central Pacific Bank
Central Pacific Bank has been around since 1954 and has physical locations in Hawaii, Oahu, Maui, and Kauai as well as mobile banking services. It was originally founded to help immigrants build a safe life.
Today, the Hawaii bank offers a wide range of products and services to individuals and small businesses in the Aloha State. Central Pacific Bank stands out for its diverse savings account options, high rates on CDs, and low minimum balance requirements.
It also provides personalized, high quality wealth planning services from a team of wealth advisors. You can download the bank’s mobile app to pay bills, send money through Zelle, check your online statements, set notifications, track your budget, and keep tabs on your financial activity.
7. CIT Bank
CIT Bank is a digital bank with several attractive products for Hawaii residents. Savings Connect is a savings account that offers a competitive interest rate you might not be able to find elsewhere.
Another savings account you may want to consider at CIT Bank is the Savings Builder. While the Savings Builder has a lower annual percentage yield or APY than Savings Connect, it can encourage you to save as you must deposit at least $100 per month from your paycheck or elsewhere to secure the highest APY.
Unlike many brick-and-mortar financial institutions, CIT Bank doesn’t charge monthly maintenance fees, overdraft fees, ATM fees, or excessive transaction fees. You can open a new account and manage it via the online portal or mobile app. If you have any questions or concerns, you can contact phone support on weekdays and Saturdays during select hours.
8. Hawaii National Bank
Hawaii National Bank is a local bank that made its debut in 1960 and has branch locations in Oahu, Maui, and Hilo. It offers several checking accounts, including the Household Checking, Personal Checking, 55+ Checking, Super NOW, and VIP Money Market Deposit. Even though some checking accounts come with monthly fees, the bank may waive them if you maintain a certain balance.
Savings account options include the traditional Personal Savings account with a variable, competitive interest rate, Kids’ Savings account for kids ages 5 to 17, and Christmas Savings account that can help you save for the holiday season.
In addition to checking accounts and savings accounts, you may turn to Hawaii National Bank for personal loans, credit cards, home loans, CDs, and retirement accounts. The bank also serves small business owners with deposit accounts, business loans, and commercial mortgages.
9. American Savings Bank
Known as the third-largest bank in Hawaii, American Savings Bank serves the Aloha State with a wide range of offerings. You can choose from three checking accounts, six savings accounts, and several credit cards with cash back rewards or points. American Savings Bank also offers CDs, student loans, mortgages, and credit cards.
If you open a checking account, you’ll reap the benefits of Overdraft Courtesy, which protects you from overdrafts that may occur from checks and electronic payments. Additionally, the bank’s advisors can assist you with investments and insurance.
If you become an American Savings customer, you may take advantage of online banking, which allows for mobile check deposit, automatic bill pay, Zelle payments, eStatements, and more.
10. Synchrony Bank
Synchrony Bank is an online bank you might want to explore as a Hawaii resident. With Synchrony, you can expect high interest rates on savings accounts and CDs, no monthly fees, a variety of credit card options from popular retailers, and reimbursements for out-of-network ATM access.
If you join the Synchrony Bank Perks Rewards program, you can earn elite status if you meet certain criteria. You’ll reach Diamond status, which is the top level if you deposit more than $250,000 or stay with the bank for five years. This status comes with perks like three free wire transfers per statement cycle and unlimited reimbursements for domestic ATMs.
11. Territorial Savings Bank
Territorial Savings Bank has served Hawaii customers since its inception in 1921. If you open a checking account, you’ll be able to earn interest as long as you deposit $100.
The bank also offers numerous CDs with competitive interest rates, special mortgage rates for first time homeowners, and discounts from local merchants, like hotels, car rental companies, and restaurants.
If you’re a small business owner, you may select from a number of business deposit accounts, business credit cards, and business loans.
12. Finance Factors
Headquartered in Honolulu, Finance Factors has 13 branches throughout the Aloha State. The bank’s deposit products are savings accounts, CDs, and retirement accounts.
It also specializes in a wide range of home loans like conventional mortgages, government-backed mortgages, jumbo mortgages, and investor mortgages. You can stop into a local branch or log into the online portal to manage your account.
Bottom Line
As you can see, there are a variety of banks in the Aloha State. Before you move forward with one, it’s a good idea to weigh the pros and cons of all your options. Factors like your particular banking needs and whether you prefer an online or in-person banking experience will help you make the best choice for your unique situation. Good luck with your search for the best bank in Hawaii.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the largest bank in Hawaii?
First Hawaiian Bank holds the title as the largest bank in Hawaii, establishing a significant presence with a total of 49 branches scattered across the state. Founded in 1858, it boasts a long history and deep roots in the local community.
Should I choose an online bank or a traditional bank in Hawaii?
An online bank is your best bet if your goal is to land the best interest rate and lowest fees. However, if personalized service is important to you, you’d likely be better off with a traditional bank. Fortunately, most traditional banks offer mobile apps and online portals.
Is a credit union a good option in Hawaii?
If you find a credit union with the ideal loan or the products and services you need and qualify for membership, you may want to join it. But you may find a wider range of offerings at a bank.
Why are there no national banks in Hawaii?
National banks aren’t in the Aloha State due to its small population and the high cost of real estate. Smaller banks are your only option if you live or work in Hawaii. The good news is you’ll find many local banks that offer just as many products and services as big banks.
For the past two months, I’ve been conducting an informal experiment looking at commuting costs. Spurred by the high cost of gas — $4 per gallon to fill my Mini!?! — I decided to use alternate transportation: my feet. In May, I walked over 200 miles. In June, I’ve walked less but biked more.
Related >> My Mini and the Power of Saving
Walking and biking takes more time, it’s true, but not as much as I’d feared. Besides, walking and biking give me additional exercise, so there’s a cost benefit there (both in terms of time and money). Plus, I’ve discovered that I’m pretty good at multitasking while walking. Sometimes I just relax and enjoy the journey, but other times I’m able to read as I walk or even write rough drafts of blog posts.
For longer trips (such as the 8-1/2 mile jaunt into downtown Portland), I’ve been using my bike. Portland has one of the country’s best biking cultures, so this is easy to do. And fun. And it’s cost effective.
How cost effective? That’s the real question, isn’t it? Bike advocates often point out how much people can save by driving less, but their general numbers are tough to translate to a personal level. Well, Michael Bluejay, who runs the outstanding Saving Electricity site that I’ve mentioned many times before, has come up with an Owning a Car vs Not Owning a Car calculator that lets folks plug in the numbers for their personal situation.
Bluejay’s calculator takes into account commuting costs, including gas, insurance, maintenance, and depreciation. On the “not driving” side, it includes the cost of a bicycle, as well as costs for buses, taxis, and car sharing. It also allows you to change your assumptions about how much you’ll earn on the money you save by not driving. (This is nice. Instead of just assuming an 8% return, you can opt to assume a 1% return.)
At his site, Bluejay writes:
Riding your bike can make you a millionaire! You’re paying more for your car than you think. A typical American who goes car-free for 35 years can save nearly a million dollars, even adjusted for inflation, and even if they pay for taxi, bus, and car-share trips often. Use the calculator to find how much you can save in your particular situation.
Now, I’m an advocate of walking and biking, but I think Bluejays’s claims are a little unrealistic. Yes, driving is expensive. Yes, biking (or walking) can save you money. But it’s unlikely that the average person has the ability to simply give up their car.
Instead, I think it’s more practical to do what I’ve done: find ways to drive less and reduce your driving costs. I don’t have the ability (or desire) to give up my Mini completely, but I’ve enjoyed looking for ways to drive it less. It’s fun to walk to the gym and the grocery store. I enjoy biking into Portland or over to my friends’ houses. These things are liberating, and they save me money.