The information provided on this website does not, and is not intended to, act as legal, financial or credit advice. See Lexington Law’s editorial disclosure for more information.
Credit mix refers to the different types of credit accounts a person has open at any given time.
Credit mix refers to the different types of credit accounts a person has open at any given time. If your accounts are varied and include a diverse mix of loans and credit cards, they’ll positively affect your credit. However, it’s important not to take on more debt than you can handle as you work to increase your credit mix.
If you’re wondering “what is credit mix?” then this guide is for you. We’ll explain how this element impacts your credit and dispel several credit myths about credit mixes.
Key takeaways
Auto loans, credit cards and student loans all contribute to credit mix.
Credit mix accounts for 10 percent of your FICO® score and about 21 percent of your VantageScore®.
Paying off a loan can decrease your credit mix.
What is a good credit mix?
Credit accounts fall into two categories: installment loans and revolving debt. Installment loans refer to instances where you borrow a set amount of money and then repay your debt over time through installment payments.
Examples of installment loans include:
Auto loans
Business loans
Mortgages
Student loans
Revolving debt, on the other hand, refers to accounts that let you repeatedly borrow money up to a preset credit limit. Credit cards and home equity lines of credit are the most prominent examples of revolving debt.
A good credit mix will incorporate a combination of revolving debt and installment loans. Responsibly managing two to three credit cards, one auto loan and one mortgage will positively impact your credit.
Do different types of credit cards affect your credit mix?
Yes, which is one of the reasons why institutions like Equifax® recommend holding at least 2 different types of credit cards. For example, managing one credit card from a commercial bank and another from a retail store can steadily improve your credit.
How does credit mix affect your credit score?
Credit mix weighs on your credit score differently depending on which scoring model is considered. Most lenders use FICO score and VantageScore when approving people for loans—and both models have different credit score factors.
FICO score
Created by the Fair Isaac Corporation (FICO), this model looks at the following five factors when calculating credit scores.
Payment history (35 percent)
Amounts owed (30 percent)
Credit history (15 percent)
New credit (10 percent)
Credit mix (10 percent)
Credit mix will somewhat affect your FICO credit score, while payment history is the most significant factor.
VantageScore
VantageScore Solutions, LLC, created this model, which incorporates credit mix into the same category as credit age. Here’s how VantageScores are calculated:
Payment history (40 percent)
Age of credit and credit mix (21 percent)
Credit utilization (20 percent)
Total balances (11 percent)
Recent credit (5 percent)
Available credit (3 percent)
Credit mix can moderately affect your VantageScore, though payment history is still the most important factor.
How can you fix your credit mix?
Opening a multitude of credit accounts might sound like a good idea, but this can significantly hurt your credit if these accounts are mismanaged. Instead, it’s better to gradually open new accounts that accommodate your financial situation—then commit to making timely payments on any account in your name.
Checking your credit report can help you understand your current credit mix and get a sense of what credit you might want to apply for next.
Learn more ways to improve your credit mix with Lexington Law Firm
Lexington Law Firm offers tiered services to help clients with their credit needs and answer their credit questions. Get started with a free credit assessment now.
Note: Articles have only been reviewed by the indicated attorney, not written by them. The information provided on this website does not, and is not intended to, act as legal, financial or credit advice; instead, it is for general informational purposes only. Use of, and access to, this website or any of the links or resources contained within the site do not create an attorney-client or fiduciary relationship between the reader, user, or browser and website owner, authors, reviewers, contributors, contributing firms, or their respective agents or employers.
Reviewed By
Sarah Raja
Associate Attorney
Sarah Raja was born and raised in Phoenix, Arizona.
In 2010 she earned a bachelor’s degree in Psychology from Arizona State University. Sarah then clerked at personal injury firm while she studied for the Law School Admissions Test. In 2016, Sarah graduated from Arizona Summit Law School with a Juris Doctor degree. While in law school Sarah had a passion for mediation and participated in the school’s mediation clinic and mediated cases for the Phoenix Justice Courts. Prior to joining Lexington Law Firm, Sarah practiced in the areas of real property law, HOA law, family law, and disability law in the State of Arizona. In 2020, Sarah opened her own mediation firm with her business partner, where they specialize in assisting couples through divorce in a communicative and civilized manner. In her spare time, Sarah enjoys spending time with family and friends, practicing yoga, and traveling.
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The following credit resource question was submitted by a Minter on Mint’s Facebook page.
Question: “Why is it incredibly cumbersome to get your credit report and FICO score? There are so many detours, traps, and dead-ends! Where can I go to go to get trustworthy information about my credit history and credit score?”
Answer: This question exposes what many of us in the credit space already know…it’s a jungle out there!
Smart consumers understand that it’s important to have good credit. The first step to maintaining a good credit score is to get your credit reports from time to time so you can see what the credit bureaus are saying about you. T
his process is supposed to be easy enough so claiming your credit reports doesn’t become burdensome to the point you do it once, and never again.
SmartMoney published an article a little over a year ago identifying the significant growth of websites that sell credit-related products and services. At publication time, the number was “more than 20 websites,” which was up from five a decade prior.
Multiple destinations offering similar credit-related products and services can sometimes leave the consumer feeling confused as to which are the most appropriate and reputable.
So, in an effort to help out the Minter who asked the question, and anyone else who finds the online credit landscape a little confusing, I’ve come up with reputable outlets you can use to stay engaged with your credit and credit-related rights.
Getting Free Credit Reports
You have the right under Federal law to claim your free credit reports once every 12 months. In order to leverage these rights, you have to go to www.annualcreditreport.com. This is the only website where you can claim your legitimately free credit reports provided for under Federal law.
If you live in Colorado, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Puerto Rico or Vermont, you’re entitled to one additional free credit report per year (either calendar year or every 12 months, depending on the state). Georgia residents get two free reports per calendar year.
In order to claim your state law freebie, you have to go directly to the credit bureaus’ websites, which are www.Equifax.com, www.Experian.com and www.TransUnion.com. You cannot claim your free credit report per state law via the annualcreditreport.com website.
I’ve said this over and over, but it’s worth repeating: the credit reporting agencies are not going to sneak up behind you and stick a credit report in your pocket because they’re not obligated to do so. You have to ask for them.
Getting Free Credit Scores or Buying FICO Scores
You do NOT have the right under any law for free annual credit scores, although a provision in Dodd-Frank requires that if your credit score was used to make an adverse decision in response to a credit application, then the lender has to give you your score for free.
There are a variety of outlets that will give you a score if you sign up for a credit monitoring service trial subscription. Opinions vary on whether or not that’s “free” or “conditionally free.”
I’m not here to have that argument. I’m here to show you where you can get free credit scores without a chance of being charged anything.
www.CreditSesame.com will give you a free credit score from Experian called the “Experian National Risk Model.” It’s a legit credit score that’s available for sale to lenders.
It’s not a FICO score, but it will give you a very good idea of what kind of credit risk you pose to lenders. No credit card is required for claim your free score.
www.CreditKarma.com will give you a free TransRisk credit score from TransUnion, which is also commercially available to lenders. Again, it’s not a FICO score, but it will give you an idea of your credit risk.
You can also get your VantageScore credit score from the site. VantageScore is also a credit score available to lenders. No credit card is required to claim your free score.
www.myFICO.com will sell you your FICO scores based on Equifax and/or TransUnion data. myFICO is the consumer division of FICO (formerly known as Fair, Isaac) and these are the guys that invented the ubiquitous FICO credit score. The cost is $19.95 per credit report and score.
www.Equifax.com will sell you your FICO score based only on Equifax data. Be aware that they also sell a non-FICO score. Point being, if you want to get your FICO score, then be sure it says “FICO score” and not simply “credit score.” The cost is $19.95.
Freezing Your Credit Reports
In my mind, the credit freeze is infinitely more effective at protecting you from identity theft than simply monitoring your credit reports. Freezing your credit reports is proactive and locks out any lender trying to process new credit applications.
Monitoring your credit reports is reactive and tells you after something bad has already happened. The good news is that freezing your credit reports is much less expensive than paying monthly subscriptions to monitor your credit report.
To freeze your credit reports you can go to…
Stopping or Minimizing Credit Card Offers
Under Federal law, you have the right to prevent the credit reporting agencies from selling your name to creditors who want to offer you preapproved offers of credit. This is often called “Opting Out.”
If you’re not opted out, then your name can be sold, normally to credit card issuers, who will take a first pass at screening your credit reports and FICO score. If you meet or surpass their criteria you may get a firm offer of credit in the mail.
If you want to ensure that your name is never screened like this again, you can opt out for free here. This is 100% free and you can always opt back in if you want to start getting preapproved credit card offers in the mail again. After a few months you’ll be surprised just how empty your mailbox is.
Do you have a credit question for John Ulzheimer? Visit Mint’s Facebook page and ask away!
John Ulzheimer is the President of Consumer Education at SmartCredit.com, the credit blogger for Mint.com, and a contributor for the National Foundation for Credit Counseling. He is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring and identity theft. Formerly of FICO, Equifax and Credit.com, John is the only recognized credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. The opinions expressed in his articles are his and not of Mint.com or Intuit. Follow John on Twitter.
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Sacramento, California, USA – February 25, 2011: Facebook.com’s homepage displayed in a Firefox browser on a computer monitor. Facebook is the world’s most popular social networking website.
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John Ulzheimer, a MintLife personal finance expert, is answering questions straight from fans of the Mint.com Facebook page. Here’s what he has to say about short sales and credit scores:
Q1: How exactly does short selling your home impact your credit and for how long?
A short sale is a more recently popular way to dispose of an underwater mortgage, which is a mortgage where you owe more than the home is worth. According to some sources, about 30% of mortgages are currently in this situation, including the mortgage belonging to yours truly, a humbled credit expert.
A short sale occurs when a buyer makes an offer on your home but that offer doesn’t cover the amount of loans taken against the house. So, if you owe $250,000 but are offered only $200,000, then you’ve been made a short offer. If your lender agrees to accept the offer to dispose of the home, then the home has been sold short. The good news is you’re out of the loan and don’t owe that $50,000 deficiency balance.
The news isn’t all good. Short sales are reported to the credit reporting agencies as a settlement, which is an accurate depiction of the loan. The lender settled for less than your really owe, hence the settlement credit reporting. And, yes, settlements are considered to be derogatory by credit scoring systems.
Don’t believe the marketing by real estate agents that short sales are better for your credit than foreclosures. That’s not true. Settlements will remain on your credit reports as long as foreclosures do and they have the same impact to your credit scores. The only difference is if the lender doesn’t report the deficiency balance along with your settlement. If that’s the case, then the impact to your credit scores isn’t quite as bad as a foreclosure.
Q2: Why does not paying our bills drop our credit, but paying them does nothing? I shouldn’t have to have debt to get credit, it seems stupid and backwards!
I appreciate your frustration when it comes to credit ratings/scores. They are maddening if you expect them to function like common sense suggests. This isn’t going to change your mind but credit scores are completely driven based on what’s predictive of your risk as a borrower. Some things matter and some things don’t.
Now, having said that, your comment about having debt being necessary to get credit is absolutely incorrect. In fact, not having debt is much better because of the infamous “DTI” ratio. DTI, or debt-to-income, is the amount you pay each month to satisfy debts, relative to your income. The fewer debts you have, the better your debt-to-income percentage and the more likely you are to be approved for large loans, like mortgages.
Additionally, I can assure you as someone who spent seven years with his hands deep inside the FICO scoring system, that paying your bills is handsomely rewarded by FICO. The most important factor in your FICO score is your payment history. The absence of negative information, which means you always pay your bills on time, is worth 35% of the points in your scores.
The issue of having debt in order to have a good credit score or get more credit is widely misreported, mostly by people who simply don’t understand credit scoring. You don’t have to have one penny of debt (or ever had one penny of debt) to have FICO scores well into the 800s. FICO scoring has no memory, so they don’t know what your debt was yesterday, the day before, or 5 years before.
Now, I know what you’re thinking: When you apply for credit you’re getting into debt. That’s incorrect. Every single credit card you have ever opened starts off with a $0 balance. And, if you pay your bill in full each month, then you never have credit card debt.
Taking out loans, such as mortgages, auto loans, student loans or personal loans, certainly does mean you’re getting into debt. However, this is certainly considered a very different type of debt than that vile credit card debt, which, incidentally, is much less as a country than our student loan debt. And, FICO weighs that installment form of debt very differently than it weighs credit card debt. It’s quite easy to have great FICO scores even with large amounts of installment debt.
John Ulzheimer is the President of Consumer Education at SmartCredit.com, the credit blogger for Mint.com, and a contributor for the National Foundation for Credit Counseling. He is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring and identity theft. Formerly of FICO, Equifax and Credit.com, John is the only recognized credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. The opinions expressed in his articles are his and not of Mint.com or Intuit. Follow John on Twitter.
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What Happens When a Bill Goes to Collections? – MintLife Blog
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credit score. You will then be contacted by phone and in writing regarding the details of the charge-off.
In this guide, we’ll explore what happens when a bill goes to collections as well as what to expect during the payoff process. You can still redeem your credit score by paying down your debt as quickly as possible and staying diligent with your other accounts.
What Is a Collection?
The original lenders—such as the credit card company, mortgage lender, or doctor’s office—turn to collection agencies when they no longer expect to receive your payment. Collection agencies either act as a middleman to retrieve the debt or purchase the debt from the lender for a fraction of the original amount. The lender then writes the amount off as a loss to their business and passes responsibility off to the agency.
Collection agencies purchase your debt for a smaller percentage of the original amount since they take on the risk that the money will not be repaid. This percentage varies based on a series of details, including the age and type of debt. Often, the higher the risk the debt will not be repaid, the less the agency pays.
When does a bill go to collections? A lender will typically sell the debt between 30 and60 days of delinquency, though they may not tell you that this occurred until after the transfer. Medical bills will not be transferred until they reach 180 days of delinquency due to the National Consumer Assistance Plan.
Once a lender sells the debt to a collections agency, you will receive a phone call alerting you of the change. Within five days of the initial notice, you will receive a physical letter that outlines the amount owed and how to pay or dispute the bill. Agencies do not have the right to collect fees or interest on the amount, nor are they allowed to threaten or intimidate you to pay the bill. The debt collectors can continue to pursue the amount depending on your state’s statute of limitations. The length varies between three to ten years depending on the laws of your state.
How Can a Bill in Collections Affect My Credit?
Payment history is one of the top contributing factors to your credit report, accounting for over a third of your credit score. Lenders want to be able to see that you’ve managed your finances in the past. Missed and lapsed payments that have gone to collections could be seen as a sign of financial instability. The effect on your credit score comes down to how late the payment is, the amount due and the type of debt.
When unpaid bills are sold to collection agencies, the negative mark can stay on your credit score for up to seven years. The starting date is determined by the last time the bill was brought current. For example, notes on defaulted bills can remain on your credit for seven years after the last time you made a payment on the loan in question.
It is important to look at your credit report on occasion to ensure these negative marks do not appear by accident. If the collections agency or lender made a mistake in reporting the information, you can dispute the debt to have your report updated or the note removed.
As we mentioned earlier, the National Consumer Assistance Plan keeps medical debt from appearing on your credit report before 180 days of delinquency. This allows patients to negotiate with their doctors and insurance companies, many of which will offer payment plans when the bill is too high to pay in full.
How to Handle Accounts in Collections
Understanding what happens when your debt goes to collections can be daunting. Remember that you must receive all the details in writing within five days of first receiving notice. Once this arrives, verify the details with your own payment history and accounts. Review the Fair Debt Collections Practice Act if you’re concerned your collection agency is overstepping their bounds. Collectors are not, for example, allowed to intimidate you or call at unreasonable hours.
If all information is confirmed, you can approach the payoff in several ways. Set up a payment plan with your collection agency by determining a practical timeline with your own finances. If you can afford $50 a month for the next year, speak to your agency about this option and request any agreement in writing before proceeding. Avoid giving your bank account number or setting up automatic debits with the collection agency and clearly state how you plan to pay off the amount.
Dispute any inconsistencies within 30 days of collections notification. Collections does not have the right to list the debt on your credit report during the investigation. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau has prepared sample letters for disputing or requesting clarification from a collection agency.
Once you’ve done your due diligence of requesting a payment plan and paying down the debt to your ability, the statute of limitations laid out by your state determines how long a collection agency can pursue you. A collection agency can sue you for unpaid debt, but you may have a case to have the lawsuit dismissed with legal assistance if the debt is outside the statute of limitations.
If a bill goes to collections, you do have options. Keep yourself informed about your rights as you work with collections agencies and be sure to request all agreements in writing. You can also track your credit as you make a plan for paying down your debt. This allows you to regain control after a temporary moment of financial instability.
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A photo of the homepage of Facebook.com in Firefox. Note: Shallow focus on the ‘eb’ in ‘facebook’.
Sacramento, California, USA – February 25, 2011: Facebook.com’s homepage displayed in a Firefox browser on a computer monitor. Facebook is the world’s most popular social networking website.
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I received the following question from a Minter via the Mint.com Facebook page:
Question: “John, I just got all of my credit reports for free and there are some items that are old, accurate, and just downright bad. I’d love to get rid of them. The materials that came with the credit reports make it pretty clear that I can dispute information that’s incorrect and get it corrected.
But I have a different dilemma: I have information that I know is correct that I’d like to get removed. Is there any downside to disputing information on a credit report that you know to be accurate? Can I get in trouble?”
Answer: First things first, the Fair Credit Reporting Act gives each of us the right to challenge information on our credit reports with which we don’t agree. There’s nothing in that law that prohibits consumers from disputing information on their credit reports for any reason.
Further, “accurate or inaccurate” is not the only variable that can cause the credit reporting agencies to remove something from a credit report. Your credit report information must be able to be verified, right or wrong.
So, if you disputed something from your credit reports and the furnishing party failed to respond to the credit bureaus, the item would be deemed unverifiable and would be removed.
It may have been perfectly accurate, but because the lender couldn’t or wouldn’t confirm its accuracy –bye, bye negative information!
Is it wrong to dispute correct information?
I’m not the morality police, and you can do what you want to do, but you do have the right to challenge any information on your report — whether it’s correct or not.
It’s your right to have correct and verifiable information on your credit reports. I can’t speak for them, but I imagine they’d also want your credit report to be fully accurate and verifiable.
How to file disputes with the credit bureaus
1. Request credit report
In order to find any errors or unattractive figures to dispute, you’ll first need to obtain an updated copy of your credit report from each of the credit reporting bureaus—Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion.
one free credit report each year which you can order from annualcreditreport.com or you can access your credit score right in the Mint app. Many banks and credit card companies will also allow you to pull your credit report on a monthly basis.
2. Identify errors
Once you’ve obtained a recent credit score, you should carefully review the information displayed. Is the credit history right? What about your credit balance? Are there any errors or items that may be inaccurate? If yes, print out the report and follow through with these next few steps to dispute all inaccurate or negative items on your credit report.
3. Fill out a credit bureau dispute form
Each of the credit bureaus has an area of their website dedicated to credit report disputes. Here, you’ll find instructions and dispute forms for each. To make it easy on our Minters, we’ve done the heavy lifting for you and collected all of the resources you’ll need to dispute something on your credit report.
Here’s where to find dispute forms for all three major credit bureaus:
Note: If the information you want to dispute appears on all three reports, you’ll need to file a separate dispute with each of the credit reporting bureaus.
4. Print out your credit report and notate the errors
In step two you printed out your original credit report. Now, you’ll want to notate the errors you noticed on your report by circling the items you wish to have changed. It’s important that the credit bureau knows exactly what your request is about, so be extra careful here and make sure the information you’re citing here matches the description on your credit report dispute form.
5. Send your dispute to the credit bureau(s)
In order to learn how to dispute a credit report and win, you’ll likely want to include as much information as possible to support your case. That said, you’ll need to include some items in addition to your dispute claim and your credit report.
Depending on what type of things you want to dispute on your credit report, your case may require different documents. For example, if you are trying to remove a closed credit card account from your score, you might include a record of the closed account with your documents. If you want to dispute a collection amount, you should provide proof of the settled debt or a receipt that shows you made the required payments.
Once you have all of your documents put together, there are a few ways you can approach the dispute process:
Online: For many, the easiest way to go through the dispute process is by simply uploading your dispute and relative documents online (you can use the links referenced above to do so).
By phone: You can also file a dispute by phone with Equifax and TransUnion—Experian does not offer this option.
Equifax: 1-866-349-5191
TransUnion: 1-800-916-8800
By mail: Lastly, you can send your dispute and documents by certified mail with a return receipt.
Experian
P.O. Box 9701
Allen, TX 75013
Equifax
P.O. Box 740256
Atlanta, GA 30374-0256
TransUnion
P.O. Box 2000
Chester, PA 19016
Some words of advice: how to dispute credit report and win
Wondering “does disputing credit work?” Unfortunately, it’s not always that simple…but there are certainly some things you can do to increase your odds. If you do file disputes with the credit bureaus, you should think about how to word your letter. I’m not sure I’d go so far as to tell them you want accurate information removed. I’d simply ask that they verify what’s already being reported.
After you file your dispute, the credit bureaus will contact the furnishing party, normally a lender or a collection agency. These parties are formally referred to as “data furnishers” or “furnishers” for short.
It’s their responsibility to investigate your claim and get back to the credit bureaus, normally within 30 days, but there are some scenarios when it can take 45 days.
If they confirm the accuracy of the credit reporting, then you’ll likely have to live with it until the credit bureaus have to remove the item, which normally takes 7 years for the bad stuff.
How to re-dispute an item
Sometimes deleted credit report items disappear only to come back to haunt you some weeks, months, or years later. You can certainly choose to re-dispute the item with the credit bureaus. They’ll likely send another dispute form (called an “ACDV”) to the furnisher asking them to investigate the item again.
However, unless you’ve contacted the furnisher and convinced them that it’s wrong, they’ll likely send the same response to the credit bureaus.
If you choose to dispute the item again, you should be aware that the credit bureaus do not have to honor your request unless you provide some new information.
The Fair Credit Reporting Act allows the bureaus to consider repetitive disputes to be frivolous and ignore them.
Takeaways: How to dispute credit reports and win
You’re entitled to accurate and verifiable information on your credit report
You can file a dispute with the credit bureaus by phone, mail, or online
When filing a credit dispute, include as much information as possible to support your claim
If your dispute is rejected, you can choose to re-dispute the claim with the credit reporting bureaus
Do you have a credit questions for John Ulzheimer? Head over to the Mint.com Facebook page and ask away!
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Even when we strive to meet all our financial obligations, unexpected life events can get in the way. Cash flow does not always line up with our bills, especially when faced with sudden medical expenses or a drop in income. After a set period of time, lenders may send unpaid debts to a collection agency.
The post What Happens When a Bill Goes to Collections? appeared first on MintLife Blog.
I received the following question last week from one of my Twitter followers and I think the answer will benefit the Minter community. âJohn, I was trying to get a copy of my credit report and wanted to ask your opinion as to which credit bureau is the best of the three? And, if there
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I opened up several credit cards within the first semester of college. Each time, I earned some sort of cool promotional item â a shot glass, a tee-shirt, a Penn State keychain. When the cards arrived in the mail a week later, I didnât really bother to use them and when I did, I wasnât
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