I might get a little sentimental today. This is the 20th anniversary of my — well, really our — weekly column. In addition to feeling old, I also feel grateful.
It was actually slightly more than 20 years ago that I was living in Southern California, working as a freelance writer, when an editor from the Orange County Register called. The paper was launching a monthly regional magazine targeting owners of luxury homes — think Laguna and Newport Beach — and he wanted a column that would be the antidote to potentially pretentious content.
“So,” I said, “you want a column that is not about rich homeowners and their chichi architects and their museum-quality art collections and the exquisite homes they build on the bluffs overlooking the Pacific and how the whole experience was one giant lovefest, and they had money left over?”
“Right,” he confirmed, “a reality column.”
He’d found the right writer. At that point, I had built two homes from the ground up, had the debt and cortisol levels to prove it, and had an arsenal of frustrations.
Still disbelieving, I added, “You want me to write about the tile mason with the drinking problem, the neighbors who won’t speak to you because you’ve had an outhouse and a Dumpster parked in your front yard for three months, the dogs who got so fed up with the construction they ran away in search of a rescue, and about how the remodel took three times as long, cost three times as much, and you weren’t speaking to your spouse at the end?”
“Exactly,” he said. “Sprinkle in some advice. Be the girl next door who has the same problems as everyone else but is two steps ahead, because you’ve made the mistakes and know who to call.”
Eighteen months later, my then-husband and I moved from Southern California to Colorado — just one of my many moves. And soon, I had a syndicated column. That former editor congratulated me, then ominously added: “It’s great to have a weekly column, but one day, you are going to run out of ideas.”
Until then, a dry well hadn’t been on my worry list. I flashed back to when I was in kindergarten and got in trouble for talking too much in class. I wound up in the principal’s office with my mother to discuss “the problem.” When the principal asked why I talked so much, the answer was easy. “I just have so many important things to say,” I said, which was unintentionally hilarious.
So here we are 20 years and 1,040 columns later, and I still have things to say and no shortage of topics. Because I have never been able to see where home design stops and home life begins, my columns are about both. Here’s a brief look back at some of the moments we’ve been through together:
The calamities: You were there when my two custom seven-foot sofas arrived with the upholstery fabric inside out, when the back patio in our new Colorado home fell three feet into a sink hole, and when our rescue dog on his first night with us tested our commitment on the one-day-old living room carpet. (Who gets a new dog and new carpet on the same day?)
The many moves: You were there through 10 houses and nine moves, including the move to Florida, where I had a stint as a live-in home stager and moved six times in four years.
The life changes: You were there when I sent each of my children off to college, entering some sort of self-imposed dorm-decorating contest in which I was the sole contestant. You were there through my divorce and remarriage, the loss of two parents and the gain of three grown stepchildren.
The micro and macro: Together, we’ve covered the minor (how to choose drawer knobs and tea towels) and the major (the meaning of home and belonging and how to leave a meaningful legacy.
After I wrote a simple primer on Roth conversions a couple weeks ago, several readers reached out asking for more details. A few specific snippets of those questions include:
I see many articles like this about lowering your tax bracket when doing Roth conversions. But, what about the amount of money that can be made by not doing Roth conversions and letting the taxable [sic: qualified, or not taxable] money grow in an account like an IRA or 401K? Is that math too hard to explain?
Sure your RMDs will be higher and you will be taxed more, but how much more money will you make by letting that tax deferred money grow? You could assume a rate of return at 6% for the illustration.
Kelly M., Question 1
A wise man once said “never pay a tax before you have to.” Back around 2015 I had the owner of an income tax service try to convince me to convert all my traditional IRA money to Roth. He said tax rates were going to go up and he was converting all of his own personal traditional IRAs. Fast forward to 2017 and Congress actually ended up lowering tax rates. I wonder what he thought about his conversions after that.
Anonymous, Question 2
Even with my spouse still working, I don’t think we’ll hit the IRMAA limits while I do Roth conversions before I take Medicare. But, could Roth conversions now help me avoid the IRMAA thresholds when I’m taking RMDs in the future? Or, is it worth doing Roth conversions to avoid the IRMAA thresholds? I’d be interested in an article like that.
Anonymous, Question 3
To summarize those three questions:
Does the math of Roth conversions really work?
But since we don’t know future tax rates, how can we confidently convert assets today?
What about IRMAA (the income-related monthly adjustment amount), which is an additional Medicare surcharge on high-earners?
Let’s address these questions one at a time.
Does the Math of Roth Conversions Really Work?
Roth conversions involve many moving pieces, as you’ll see in this simple Roth conversion spreadsheet.
Reminder: you can make a copy of the spreadsheet via File >> Make a Copy
There are terrific financial planning software packages that take care of this math. I wanted to present 95% of the good stuff in a free format that you all can look at. Hence, Google Sheets.
Nuanced Tax Interactions
Especially important is the interaction between normal income (via Traditional account withdrawals), capital gains, and Social Security. These taxes interplay in nuanced ways. A simple example:
Let’s say a Single retiree’s annual income is:
$5000 in interest income
$5000 in long-term capital gains
$30,000 in Social Security benefits.
If you plug that into a 1040 tax return, you’ll find that:
None of that Social Security income is taxable.
All of the interest and capital gains are enveloped by the Standard deduction
Resulting in zero taxable income and a $0.00 Federal tax bill.
But if we copied Scenario A and added in $30,000 in Traditional IRA distributions, what happens? I think we all expect that the $30,000 distribution itself must have a taxable component, but you might not know that:
The IRA distribution affects Social Security taxability. Now, $22,350 of the Social Security income becomes taxable. That’s right. Simply by distributing IRA assets, you’ve now increased how much Social Security you pay taxes on.
The Standard deduction still helps, but there’s now a remainder of $48,500 in Federal taxable income.
Resulting in a $5584 Federal tax bill.
It’s not the end of the world. Taxes happen. They pay for our public shared interests.
But part of tax planning is understanding ahead of time what your future tax bills will look like. It’s important to understand how taxes interact. And this is just a simple example!
Measuring Roth Conversion Benefits
Going back to this spreadsheet, you’ll three tabs full of retirement withdrawal math. The Assumptions tab contains important information on our hypothetical retiree’s starting point (e.g. $2.9M in investable assets), their annual spending ($100K), their future assumed growth (5% per year, after adjusting for inflation), and other important numbers.
Note – this math takes place in “the convenient world” where inflation is removed from the math.
Then three tabs are presented with different Roth conversion scenarios, described below:
“Baseline Calculations“
This tab shows a retiree not focused on any conversions
They want to leave to their children both Roth assets (if possible) and taxable assets (on a stepped-up cost basis).
Therefore, they attempt to fund as much of their retirement using Traditional assets as possible
“No Trad Withdrawals”
This tab shows a “worst case” scenario, to help bookend the analysis. This retiree is not pulling any funds from their Traditional accounts (unless necessary). Thus, we’d expect them to have large RMDs and large RMD-related tax bills.
“Reasonable Conversions”
This tab shows a “reasonable” Roth conversion timeline, electing to convert $1.7 million throughout their retirement, while funding their lifestyle using a mix of Traditional, Roth, and taxable assets along the way.
By no means is this “optimized.” But it’s reasonable, and better than the first two scenarios, as we’ll see below.
Pros, Cons, and Results
The three scenarios end up similar in multiple ways.
Our retiree never has an issue funding their annual lifestyle. This is of utmost importance.
Our retiree reaches age 90 (“death”) with roughly $5M in each scenario.
But there are important differences (as we’d suspect).
The Baseline scenario ends with $5.00M. Of that, 27% is Traditional, 35% is Roth, and 34% is Taxable. They’ve paid an effective Federal tax rate of 20.7% throughout retirement.
The No Traditional Withdrawal scenario ends with $5.20M. Of that, 63% is Tradtional, 0% is Roth, 37% is Taxable. They’ve paid an effective Federal tax rate of 18.8% throughout retirement.
The Reasonable Conversions scenario ends with $5.17M. 18% is Traditional, 68% is Roth, and 14% is Taxable. They’ve paid an effective Federal tax rate of 13.9% throughout retirement.
The Same, But Different
These three scenarios share many similarities. All three result in successful retirements. But there are important differences.
Our Roth converter paid far fewer taxes and, ultimately, left a majority of their tax dollars to their heirs via Roth vehicles, and thus tax-free.
The No Trad Withdrawal retiree paid 28% effective tax rates in their final years (only going further up in the future) and left 63% of their assets in Traditional accounts with a large asterisk on them.***
***TAXES DUE IN THE FUTURE*** …unless you’re leaving the Traditional IRA assets to, for example, a non-profit charity. But if you’re leaving the Traditional IRA to your kids, they’ll owe taxes when they withdraw the funds.
Long story short: Roth conversions work to your benefit when executed intelligently.
Should You Worry About Leaving Behind Traditional Assets?!
I don’t want to freak you out. Your heirs will appreciate you leaving behind a 401(k) or Traditional IRA for them.
But it’s worth understanding that they’ll owe taxes on that money (usually). Let’s dive into an example with simple math: a $1 million Traditional IRA left to one person (e.g. your child).
That person will most likely set up an Inherited Traditional IRAand (via new-ish rules in the SECURE Act) will have to empty that account by the end of the 10th year after your death. The withdrawals can be raised and lowered during those 10 years. Much like with Roth conversions, it makes sense to take larger withdrawals during otherwise low-income years and vice versa.
But if the beneficiary is in the middle of their career, a series of 10 equal withdrawals makes sense. Some rough math suggests ~$135,000 per year is a reasonable withdrawal amount (based on account growth over the 10 years).
That withdrawal is taxed as income for the beneficiary. If they’re already earning $100,000 per year of normal income, then taxes will consume ~$41,000 of their annual $135,000 withdrawal. State taxes might take another bite.
Again – I don’t want anyone to cry over the prospect of inheriting $94,000 annually for 10 years. Where can I sign up?! But it’s also worth understanding that 30% of this inheritance is going to Federal taxes.
“Never Pay a Tax Before You Have To”
What about Question #2 from the beginning of the article? A reader wrote in and suggested one should “never pay a tax before you have to.”
While pithy, it’s false.
If you can reasonably front-load low tax rates to prevent later high tax rates, the math supports you. What we’ve covered so far today is clear evidence of that.
Now, in the reader’s defense: I’d rather delay taxes if thedollar amounts are exactly the same. That’s one argument behind the tax-loss harvesting craze: I’d rather pay $100 in taxes in the future than $100 in taxes today.
But Roth conversions work differently. Done well, Roth conversions allow you to pay a 22% tax on $50,000 today to prevent a 37% tax on $100,000 in the future. It’s apples-and-oranges compared to the tax-loss example.
And perhaps the bigger lesson: there are few universal rules in personal finance. The pithy rule that works in one scenario (“never pay a tax before you have to”) might fail miserably in another scenario. Let the math guide you.
What About IRMAA?
Irma used to only be a name you’d give to the great-grandmother character in your 11th-grade B-minus fiction story.
No longer! Today, IRMAA has been given new life (which, I bet, was covered by Medicare!)
IRMAA (Income-Related Monthly Adjustment Amount) is a Medicare premium surcharge imposed on higher-income beneficiaries in addition to their standard Medicare Part B and Part D premiums. The amount of IRMAA is determined based on an individual’s modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) and can result in higher healthcare costs for those with higher incomes.
In plain English: high-earners pay more for Medicare.
Question #3 today asked if Roth conversions can be used to avoid IRMAA premiums. The answer is: yes.
But first, how painful are these IRMAA surcharges in the first place?!
Important note: you’ll see below that the 2023 IRMAA brackets are based on 2021 modified adjusted gross income (MAGI). That same 2-year delay holds for future years. Your 2024 Roth conversions (or lack thereof) will be important in determining IRMAA in 2026
If a married couple’s MAGI in 2021 was $225,000, they’d end up paying $231 per month (or, more accurately, $462 per month for the couple) as opposed to $330 for the couple if they earned less than $194,000. That’s a difference of $132 per month or $1584 for the year.
I’m of two minds here. Because:
Yes, I believe in frugality. A penny saved is a penny earned. Why pay $1584 extra if you don’t have to?
But if you’re earning $200,000in retirement, do you also need to stress over a $1500 annual line item?
Personally, I’ll be stoked if my retirement MAGI is $200,000. It’ll be a sign that my financial life turned out unbelievably well. I won’t mind the IRMAA.
The people most likely to suffer IRMAA are also best positioned to deal with it.
Will IRMAA Get You?
The 2-year delay in IRMAA math means you might get IRMAA’d early on in retirement.
Imagine retiring at the end of 2023. The peak of your career! You and your spouse earned a combined $300,000 and now you’re settling down to mind your knitting. Like all U.S. citizens, you sign up for Medicare just before you turn 65.
Come 2025, Uncle Sam and Aunt IRMAA are going to look back at your 2023 income and surcharge you.
But the good news, most likely, is that your 2024 income is quite low in comparison and IRMAA will drop off in 2026.
Can Roth Conversions Help?
Remember: RMDs are forced and count as income, and that has the potential of “forcing” IRMAA on retirees as they age.
So to answer our terrific reader question: yes, Roth conversions can help here. You can use Roth conversions to shift the realization of income from high years to low years, preventing or mitigating IRMAA in the process.
But once more, make sure the juice is worth the squeeze.
If a 75-year-old has a $200,000 RMD that kills them on IRMAA, ask yourself: where does a $200,000 RMD come from? Answer: it’s coming from an IRA of over $5 million. Should someone with $5 million be losing sleep over IRMAA? I don’t think so.
That’s A Lot of Numbers…
A long and math-heavy article. I hope this helped you out! We covered:
Roth conversions can be objectively helpful, decreasing taxes in retirement and shifting large portions of portfolios from Traditional accounts (with potential taxes for heirs) into Roth accounts (no taxes for heirs)
Taxes in retirement are nuanced and interconnected. In today’s example, realizing extra income (via IRA distributions) also triggered extra Social Security taxes.
It’s not bad to leave behind Traditional assets to heirs. They’re getting a wonderful gift from you. But there will be taxes, which should be planned for.
There are many scenarios where it makes sense to pay taxes before you “have” to.
IRMAA is a negative reality for many retirees, but the people most likely to suffer IRMAA are also best positioned to deal with it.
Roth conversions can be used to mitigate IRMAA over the long run.
As always, thanks for reading!
Thank you for reading! If you enjoyed this article, join 8000+ subscribers who read my 2-minute weekly email, where I send you links to the smartest financial content I find online every week.
-Jesse
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Home improvement loans are offered by banks, online lenders and credit unions.
Unlike home equity loans, home improvement loans are generally not tax deductible.
If used for projects that substantially improve your home, you may be able to deduct the interest on a home equity loan from your taxes.
Home improvement loans generally aren’t eligible for federal tax deductions, even when used for eligible renovations or property improvements. Unlike home equity loans, which can be tax deductible, home improvement loans are unsecured debt, rendering them ineligible for tax credits.
Home improvement loans vs. home equity loans
Although home improvement and home equity loans may sound similar on paper and can be used for the same purpose, it’s important to understand the differences between the two categories.
If you turn to a home improvement loan to finance your next project rather than an equity loan, you could leave thousands of dollars in tax deductions on the table.
Home improvement loans
A home improvement loan is offered by online lenders, banks or credit unions and functions as a personal loan. Borrowers must meet the lender’s requirements to get approved and receive the funds in a lump sum. While lenders typically require good credit, some provide bad credit home improvement loans.
Most lenders offer repayment timelines between two and five years and can come with fixed or variable interest rates based on your creditworthiness. In short, home improvement loans are unsecured personal loans specifically marketed toward borrowers looking to finance renovations.
Unsecured loans or debts (like personal loans for home improvements) aren’t secured by a house or property. Therefore, they’re not eligible for the tax credits, even if the funds are used for eligible projects or improvements.
Home equity loans
Home improvement loans and home equity loans are in two different categories for a number of reasons. For one, home equity loans are secured — backed by the home — and allow you to tap into the equity you’ve built up in your home over time.
Also called a ‘second mortgage,’ these loans and lines of credit tend to have stricter usage restrictions and are higher risk. If you fail to make the payments, you run the risk of losing your home. Home equity loans and lines of credit (HELOCs) are a few of the most popular secured debts and qualify for tax deductions.
Home loans that are tax deductible
As a rule of thumb, if your home or property doesn’t back the loan, it doesn’t qualify for the tax interest deduction. However, if you’re looking to finance a specific renovation, consider a home equity loan or line of credit.
Home equity loans
A home equity loan allows you to borrow against the equity — the portion of the home you’ve already paid off — built up in your home. They typically have fixed interest rates and repayment terms of up to 30 years, but most lenders allow the borrower to choose a repayment plan.
How much you can borrow will depend on the lender and how much equity you’ve built up over time. However, many lenders cap the amount you can borrow between 80 to 85 percent of your home’s equity.
If used for projects to substantially improve your home, you may be able to deduct the interest from your loan on your taxes, even if only a portion of the balance went toward the home.
Home Equity Lines of Credit (HELOCs)
HELOCs also allow you to borrow against the equity you’ve built up over time, but rather than dispersing the amount in a lump sum, a HELOC allows you to withdraw funds over time.
Borrowers can take out how much they need when they need it. The interest is eligible for a tax credit when used for eligible projects. Because of this, HELOCs can be a great way to finance an ongoing home improvement project.
Deduction-eligible home equity loan uses
Not all home improvement projects qualify for a tax deduction, even if you use a home equity loan for financing. It’s not likely that you’ll see any interest deducted for smaller projects, like updating your kitchen cabinets or installing a patio.
The IRS has specific parameters around what qualifies as eligible. Check the specific home improvement details and deadlines before banking on a significant return this tax season.
Home office deductions
If your residence is your primary workspace, you may be able to deduct certain home office improvements or purchases. This applies to homeowners and renters residing in any home or utilizing a free-standing structure for their business. Employees will not qualify, even if they meet the other requirements.
The term “home office” is more of an umbrella term as personal property also may qualify. Among others, Boats, RVs, mobile homes and unattached garages, studios or barns fall under this category if used strictly for business.
In order to qualify, the IRS states that:
You must use a specific part of your home strictly for business purposes.
Your home (or structure) is your principal place of business, or if administrative tasks can only be performed on your property.
If you work on a hybrid schedule and only work from home a few times a week, it likely won’t qualify. “If the use of the home office is merely appropriate and helpful, you cannot deduct expenses for the business use of your home,” an IRS resource page reads.
Medical-related home renovations
The installation of specialized household equipment for medical care to support you, your spouse or your dependent may qualify for a tax break, but only if the additions fall within certain parameters.
For example, the value of the property must not be increased by the renovation for the entire cost to be considered a taxable medical expense. Such improvements may include:
Widening hallways and doorways.
Adding ramps or lifts to accommodate for a wheelchair.
Modifying stairwells.
Lowering (or modifying) kitchen appliances, cabinets or household electrical outlets.
Any amount paid (or borrowed) for medical upkeep and operation also qualifies as long as the funds are used strictly for medical purposes and the installation of a specialized plumbing system for a person with a disability.
If you’re unsure whether your renovations qualify, consider the primary function of the addition and the potential value-add it gives your home. “Only reasonable costs to accommodate a home to your disabled condition are considered medical care,” the IRS tax resource reads. “Additional costs for personal motives, such as for architectural or aesthetic reasons, aren’t medical expenses.”
Energy efficient installations
If you’ve installed energy efficient equipment — think solar panels, energy efficient windows, skylights and doors, biomass equipment or small wind turbines — then you may qualify for a tax break on your next return.
Also called the residential clean energy property credit, qualifying eco-friendly renovations made after Dec. 31, 2021, and before Jan. 1, 2033, are eligible for a tax credit totaling up to 30 percent of the equipment costs. Any expenditure made in 2033 can result in a 26 percent maximum tax credit and a 22 percent maximum credit for property placed in 2034. There will be no credit available for renovations made Dec. 31, 2034.
What constitutes a qualifying cost when calculating the deduction percentage will vary based on the type of eco-friendly equipment you’ve had installed. There’s also a $1,200 aggregate yearly tax credit maximum for home components, energy audits and energy property, while qualifying heaters, stoves and boilers have a separate $2,000 limit.
Which is better: home equity or home improvement loans?
While there isn’t a ‘right’ answer as to which product is better, there are projects that are better suited for certain projects. For example, home improvement loans are best for smaller projects that don’t qualify for tax deductions, especially if you don’t have significant home equity built up.
For larger and longer renovations, HELOCs may be the better option for qualifying borrowers. Home equity loans are well suited for long-term homeowners with less strenuous projects that qualify for tax credits.
Average mortgage rates edged higher yesterday. Although the change was negligible, it was enough to return them to their recent high, first reached last Thursday. However, they’re still way lower than the near-8% levels seen as recently as last October.
Earlier this morning, markets were signaling that mortgage rates today might barely move. However, these early mini-trends often switch direction or speed as the hours pass.
Current mortgage and refinance rates
Find your lowest rate. Start here
Program
Mortgage Rate
APR*
Change
Conventional 30-year fixed
7.36%
7.37%
+0.01
Conventional 15-year fixed
6.76%
6.79%
Unchanged
Conventional 20-year fixed
7.06%
7.09%
Unchanged
Conventional 10-year fixed
6.65%
6.68%
-0.01
30-year fixed FHA
6.42%
7.11%
+0.03
30-year fixed VA
6.71%
6.83%
-0.01
5/1 ARM Conventional
6.18%
7.32%
-0.01
Rates are provided by our partner network, and may not reflect the market. Your rate might be different. Click here for a personalized rate quote. See our rate assumptions See our rate assumptions here.
Should you lock your mortgage rate today?
Many investors now expect the Federal Reserve to implement its first cut in general interest rates in June. And to make only three modest cuts during 2024.
That’s very different from their expectations at the start of this year. Then, they thought the first cut would be in March followed by five more before Dec. 31.
It’s this shift in expectations, from the optimistic to the realistic, that largely explains why mortgage rates have been moving higher in recent weeks. And it’s my top reason for now thinking that mortgage rates probably won’t begin to trend consistently lower until well into the second (April-June) quarter.
So, for now, my personal rate lock recommendations are:
LOCK if closing in 7 days
LOCK if closing in 15 days
LOCK if closing in 30 days
LOCK if closing in 45 days
LOCKif closing in 60days
However, with so much uncertainty at the moment, your instincts could easily turn out to be as good as mine — or better. So, let your gut and your own tolerance for risk help guide you.
>Related: 7 Tips to get the best refinance rate
Market data affecting today’s mortgage rates
Here’s a snapshot of the state of play this morning at about 9:50 a.m. (ET). The data are mostly compared with roughly the same time the business day before, so much of the movement will often have happened in the previous session. The numbers are:
The yield on 10-year Treasury notes held steady 4.30%. (Neutral for mortgage rates.) More than any other market, mortgage rates typically tend to follow these particular Treasury bond yields
Major stock indexes were falling this morning. (Good for mortgage rates.) When investors buy shares, they’re often selling bonds, which pushes those prices down and increases yields and mortgage rates. The opposite may happen when indexes are lower. But this is an imperfect relationship
Oil prices climbed to $79.34 from $78.19 a barrel. (Bad for mortgage rates*.) Energy prices play a prominent role in creating inflation and also point to future economic activity
Goldprices inched down to $2,042 from $2,044 an ounce. (Neutral for mortgage rates*.) It is generally better for rates when gold prices rise and worse when they fall. Gold tends to rise when investors worry about the economy.
CNN Business Fear & Greed index — increased to 79 from 76 out of 100. (Bad for mortgage rates.) “Greedy” investors push bond prices down (and interest rates up) as they leave the bond market and move into stocks, while “fearful” investors do the opposite. So lower readings are often better than higher ones
*A movement of less than $20 on gold prices or 40 cents on oil ones is a change of 1% or less. So we only count meaningful differences as good or bad for mortgage rates.
Caveats about markets and rates
Before the pandemic, post-pandemic upheavals, and war in Ukraine, you could look at the above figures and make a pretty good guess about what would happen to mortgage rates that day. But that’s no longer the case. We still make daily calls. And are usually right. But our record for accuracy won’t achieve its former high levels until things settle down.
So, use markets only as a rough guide. Because they have to be exceptionally strong or weak to rely on them. But, with that caveat, mortgage rates today look likely to hold steady or close to steady. However, be aware that “intraday swings” (when rates change speed or direction during the day) are a common feature right now.
Find your lowest rate. Start here
What’s driving mortgage rates today?
Today
This morning brought the second reading (of three) of gross domestic product (GDP) during the fourth quarter of last year. And it will likely hardly affect mortgage rates.
Today’s figure showed growth that quarter at 3.2%. Markets had been expecting it to be unchanged from its first reading at 3.3%. And they’d already priced that figure into mortgage rates.
Ten-year Treasury notes edged lower on the news. But mortgage rates didn’t immediately follow, and the difference between the actual figure and market expectations may not be enough to change them.
Tomorrow
We’re due January’s personal consumption expenditures (PCE) price index tomorrow. This is the Federal Reserve’s favorite gauge of inflation. So it certainly has the potential to move markets and mortgage rates, not least because it could influence decisions about the timing and scope of the Fed’s future cuts in general interest rates.
Tomorrow brings four key figures: two for the all-items PCE price index and two for the “core” PCE price index. The core figure is the all-items one after volatile food and energy prices have been stripped out, something that supposedly reveals underlying inflation. The Fed focuses on core figures.
There are two figures for each of these indexes. The first shows how prices moved in the month of January. And the second is the year-over-year (YOY) number, which shows how the same prices moved between Feb. 1, 2023 and Jan. 31, 2024.
Tomorrow’s inflation and other data
Here are what markets are expecting tomorrow (with December’s actual figures in brackets):
January all-items PCE price index — 0.3% (0.2 % in December)
January core PCE price index —0.4% (0.2% in December)
YOY all-items PCE price index — 2.4% (2.6 % in December)
YOY core PCE price index —2.8% (2.8% in December)
You can see that markets are expecting a small increase in most of these measures of inflation. And, because they’re expecting them, they’ll have already priced those into mortgage rates. So, if the figures come in as forecast, mortgage rates might barely move.
However, higher-than-expected figures could push those rates upward. Conversely, lower-than-expected ones could drag them downward.
Other economic reports due tomorrow rarely move mortgage rates far or for long, especially when they’re overshadowed by a major report like the PCE price index.
Ten senior Fed officials have speaking engagements tomorrow and on Friday, all after tomorrow’s report. And those could change mortgage rates if enough of them say things that cheer up or depress investors. But we can only wait to hear their remarks.
Don’t forget you can always learn more about what’s driving mortgage rates in the most recent weekend edition of this daily report. These provide a more detailed analysis of what’s happening. They are published each Saturday morning soon after 10 a.m. (ET) and include a preview of the following week.
Recent trends
According to Freddie Mac’s archives, the weekly all-time lowest rate for 30-year, fixed-rate mortgages was set on Jan. 7, 2021, when it stood at 2.65%. The weekly all-time high was 18.63% on Sep. 10, 1981.
Freddie’s Feb. 22 report put that same weekly average at 6.90% up from the previous week’s 6.77%. But note that Freddie’s data are almost always out of date by the time it announces its weekly figures.
Expert forecasts for mortgage rates
Looking further ahead, Fannie Mae and the Mortgage Bankers Association (MBA) each has a team of economists dedicated to monitoring and forecasting what will happen to the economy, the housing sector and mortgage rates.
And here are their rate forecasts for the four quarters of 2024 (Q1/24, Q2/24 Q3/24 and Q4/24).
The numbers in the table below are for 30-year, fixed-rate mortgages. Fannie’s were updated on Feb. 12 and the MBA’s on Feb. 20.
Forecaster
Q1/24
Q2/24
Q3/24
Q4/24
Fannie Mae
6.5%
6.3%
6.1%
5.9%
MBA
6.9%
6.6%
6.3%
6.1%
Of course, given so many unknowables, both these forecasts might be even more speculative than usual. And their past record for accuracy hasn’t been wildly impressive.
Important notes on today’s mortgage rates
Here are some things you need to know:
Typically, mortgage rates go up when the economy’s doing well and down when it’s in trouble. But there are exceptions. Read ‘How mortgage rates are determined and why you should care’
Only “top-tier” borrowers (with stellar credit scores, big down payments, and very healthy finances) get the ultralow mortgage rates you’ll see advertised
Lenders vary. Yours may or may not follow the crowd when it comes to daily rate movements — though they all usually follow the broader trend over time
When daily rate changes are small, some lenders will adjust closing costs and leave their rate cards the same
Refinance rates are typically close to those for purchases.
A lot is going on at the moment. And nobody can claim to know with certainty what will happen to mortgage rates in the coming hours, days, weeks or months.
Find your lowest mortgage rate today
You should comparison shop widely, no matter what sort of mortgage you want. Federal regulator the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau found in May 2023:
“Mortgage borrowers are paying around $100 a month more depending on which lender they choose, for the same type of loan and the same consumer characteristics (such as credit score and down payment).”
In other words, over the lifetime of a 30-year loan, homebuyers who don’t bother to get quotes from multiple lenders risk losing an average of $36,000. What could you do with that sort of money?
Verify your new rate
Mortgage rate methodology
The Mortgage Reports receives rates based on selected criteria from multiple lending partners each day. We arrive at an average rate and APR for each loan type to display in our chart. Because we average an array of rates, it gives you a better idea of what you might find in the marketplace. Furthermore, we average rates for the same loan types. For example, FHA fixed with FHA fixed. The end result is a good snapshot of daily rates and how they change over time.
How your mortgage interest rate is determined
Mortgage and refinance rates vary a lot depending on each borrower’s unique situation.
Factors that determine your mortgage interest rate include:
Overall strength of the economy — A strong economy usually means higher rates, while a weaker one can push current mortgage rates down to promote borrowing
Lender capacity — When a lender is very busy, it will increase rates to deter new business and give its loan officers some breathing room
Property type (condo, single-family, town house, etc.) — A primary residence, meaning a home you plan to live in full time, will have a lower interest rate. Investment properties, second homes, and vacation homes have higher mortgage rates
Loan-to-value ratio (determined by your down payment) — Your loan-to-value ratio (LTV) compares your loan amount to the value of the home. A lower LTV, meaning a bigger down payment, gets you a lower mortgage rate
Debt-To-Income ratio — This number compares your total monthly debts to your pretax income. The more debt you currently have, the less room you’ll have in your budget for a mortgage payment
Loan term — Loans with a shorter term (like a 15-year mortgage) typically have lower rates than a 30-year loan term
Borrower’s credit score — Typically the higher your credit score is, the lower your mortgage rate, and vice versa
Mortgage discount points — Borrowers have the option to buy discount points or ‘mortgage points’ at closing. These let you pay money upfront to lower your interest rate
Remember, every mortgage lender weighs these factors a little differently.
To find the best rate for your situation, you’ll want to get personalized estimates from a few different lenders.
Verify your new rate. Start here
Are refinance rates the same as mortgage rates?
Rates for a home purchase and mortgage refinance are often similar.
However, some lenders will charge more for a refinance under certain circumstances.
Typically when rates fall, homeowners rush to refinance. They see an opportunity to lock in a lower rate and payment for the rest of their loan.
This creates a tidal wave of new work for mortgage lenders.
Unfortunately, some lenders don’t have the capacity or crew to process a large number of refinance loan applications.
In this case, a lender might raise its rates to deter new business and give loan officers time to process loans currently in the pipeline.
Also, cashing out equity can result in a higher rate when refinancing.
Cash-out refinances pose a greater risk for mortgage lenders, so they’re often priced higher than new home purchases and rate-term refinances.
Check your refinance rates today. Start here
How to get the lowest mortgage or refinance rate
Since rates can vary, always shop around when buying a house or refinancing a mortgage.
Comparison shopping can potentially save thousands, even tens of thousands of dollars over the life of your loan.
Here are a few tips to keep in mind:
1. Get multiple quotes
Many borrowers make the mistake of accepting the first mortgage or refinance offer they receive.
Some simply go with the bank they use for checking and savings since that can seem easiest.
However, your bank might not offer the best mortgage deal for you. And if you’re refinancing, your financial situation may have changed enough that your current lender is no longer your best bet.
So get multiple quotes from at least three different lenders to find the right one for you.
2. Compare Loan Estimates
When shopping for a mortgage or refinance, lenders will provide a Loan Estimate that breaks down important costs associated with the loan.
You’ll want to read these Loan Estimates carefully and compare costs and fees line-by-line, including:
Interest rate
Annual percentage rate (APR)
Monthly mortgage payment
Loan origination fees
Rate lock fees
Closing costs
Remember, the lowest interest rate isn’t always the best deal.
Annual percentage rate (APR) can help you compare the ‘real’ cost of two loans. It estimates your total yearly cost including interest and fees.
Also, pay close attention to your closing costs.
Some lenders may bring their rates down by charging more upfront via discount points. These can add thousands to your out-of-pocket costs.
3. Negotiate your mortgage rate
You can also negotiate your mortgage rate to get a better deal.
Let’s say you get loan estimates from two lenders. Lender A offers the better rate, but you prefer your loan terms from Lender B. Talk to Lender B and see if they can beat the former’s pricing.
You might be surprised to find that a lender is willing to give you a lower interest rate in order to keep your business.
And if they’re not, keep shopping — there’s a good chance someone will.
Fixed-rate mortgage vs. adjustable-rate mortgage: Which is right for you?
Mortgage borrowers can choose between a fixed-rate mortgage and an adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM).
Fixed-rate mortgages (FRMs) have interest rates that never change unless you decide to refinance. This results in predictable monthly payments and stability over the life of your loan.
Adjustable-rate loans have a low interest rate that’s fixed for a set number of years (typically five or seven). After the initial fixed-rate period, the interest rate adjusts every year based on market conditions.
With each rate adjustment, a borrower’s mortgage rate can either increase, decrease, or stay the same. These loans are unpredictable since monthly payments can change each year.
Adjustable-rate mortgages are fitting for borrowers who expect to move before their first rate adjustment, or who can afford a higher future payment.
In most other cases, a fixed-rate mortgage is typically the safer and better choice.
Remember, if rates drop sharply, you are free to refinance and lock in a lower rate and payment later on.
How your credit score affects your mortgage rate
You don’t need a high credit score to qualify for a home purchase or refinance, but your credit score will affect your rate.
This is because credit history determines risk level.
Historically speaking, borrowers with higher credit scores are less likely to default on their mortgages, so they qualify for lower rates.
For the best rate, aim for a credit score of 720 or higher.
Mortgage programs that don’t require a high score include:
Conventional home loans — minimum 620 credit score
FHA loans — minimum 500 credit score (with a 10% down payment) or 580 (with a 3.5% down payment)
VA loans — no minimum credit score, but 620 is common
USDA loans — minimum 640 credit score
Ideally, you want to check your credit report and score at least 6 months before applying for a mortgage. This gives you time to sort out any errors and make sure your score is as high as possible.
If you’re ready to apply now, it’s still worth checking so you have a good idea of what loan programs you might qualify for and how your score will affect your rate.
You can get your credit report from AnnualCreditReport.com and your score from MyFico.com.
How big of a down payment do I need?
Nowadays, mortgage programs don’t require the conventional 20 percent down.
In fact, first-time home buyers put only 6 percent down on average.
Down payment minimums vary depending on the loan program. For example:
Conventional home loans require a down payment between 3% and 5%
FHA loans require 3.5% down
VA and USDA loans allow zero down payment
Jumbo loans typically require at least 5% to 10% down
Keep in mind, a higher down payment reduces your risk as a borrower and helps you negotiate a better mortgage rate.
If you are able to make a 20 percent down payment, you can avoid paying for mortgage insurance.
This is an added cost paid by the borrower, which protects their lender in case of default or foreclosure.
But a big down payment is not required.
For many people, it makes sense to make a smaller down payment in order to buy a house sooner and start building home equity.
Verify your new rate. Start here
Choosing the right type of home loan
No two mortgage loans are alike, so it’s important to know your options and choose the right type of mortgage.
The five main types of mortgages include:
Fixed-rate mortgage (FRM)
Your interest rate remains the same over the life of the loan. This is a good option for borrowers who expect to live in their homes long-term.
The most popular loan option is the 30-year mortgage, but 15- and 20-year terms are also commonly available.
Adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM)
Adjustable-rate loans have a fixed interest rate for the first few years. Then, your mortgage rate resets every year.
Your rate and payment can rise or fall annually depending on how the broader interest rate trends.
ARMs are ideal for borrowers who expect to move prior to their first rate adjustment (usually in 5 or 7 years).
For those who plan to stay in their home long-term, a fixed-rate mortgage is typically recommended.
Jumbo mortgage
A jumbo loan is a mortgage that exceeds the conforming loan limit set by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac.
In 2023, the conforming loan limit is $726,200 in most areas.
Jumbo loans are perfect for borrowers who need a larger loan to purchase a high-priced property, especially in big cities with high real estate values.
FHA mortgage
A government loan backed by the Federal Housing Administration for low- to moderate-income borrowers. FHA loans feature low credit score and down payment requirements.
VA mortgage
A government loan backed by the Department of Veterans Affairs. To be eligible, you must be active-duty military, a veteran, a Reservist or National Guard service member, or an eligible spouse.
VA loans allow no down payment and have exceptionally low mortgage rates.
USDA mortgage
USDA loans are a government program backed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. They offer a no-down-payment solution for borrowers who purchase real estate in an eligible rural area. To qualify, your income must be at or below the local median.
Bank statement loan
Borrowers can qualify for a mortgage without tax returns, using their personal or business bank account. This is an option for self-employed or seasonally-employed borrowers.
Portfolio/Non-QM loan
These are mortgages that lenders don’t sell on the secondary mortgage market. This gives lenders the flexibility to set their own guidelines.
Non-QM loans may have lower credit score requirements, or offer low-down-payment options without mortgage insurance.
Choosing the right mortgage lender
The lender or loan program that’s right for one person might not be right for another.
Explore your options and then pick a loan based on your credit score, down payment, and financial goals, as well as local home prices.
Whether you’re getting a mortgage for a home purchase or a refinance, always shop around and compare rates and terms.
Typically, it only takes a few hours to get quotes from multiple lenders — and it could save you thousands in the long run.
Time to make a move? Let us find the right mortgage for you
Current mortgage rates methodology
We receive current mortgage rates each day from a network of mortgage lenders that offer home purchase and refinance loans. Mortgage rates shown here are based on sample borrower profiles that vary by loan type. See our full loan assumptions here.
The VA home loan: Unbeatable benefits for veterans
For many who qualify, VA home loans are some of the best mortgages available.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
Backed by the U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs, VA loans are designed to help active-duty military personnel, veterans and certain other groups become homeowners at an affordable cost.
The VA loan asks for no down payment, requires no mortgage insurance, and has lenient rules about qualifying, among many other advantages.
Here’s everything you need to know about qualifying for and using a VA loan.
In this article (Skip to…)
Top 10 VA loan benefits
1. No down payment on a VA loan
Most home loan programs require you to make at least a small down payment to buy a home. The VA home loan is an exception.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
Rather than paying 5%, 10%, 20% or more of the home’s purchase price upfront in cash, with a VA loan you can finance up to 100% of the purchase price.
The VA loan is a true no-money-down home mortgage opportunity.
2. No mortgage insurance for VA loans
Typically, lenders require you to pay for mortgage insurance if you make a down payment that’s less than 20%.
This insurance — which is known as private mortgage insurance (PMI) for a conventional loan and a mortgage insurance premium (MIP) for an FHA loan — would protect the lender if you defaulted on your loan.
VA loans require neither a down payment nor mortgage insurance. That makes a VA-backed mortgage very affordable upfront and over time.
3. VA loans have a government guarantee
There’s a reason why the VA loan comes with such favorable terms.
The federal government guarantees these loans — meaning a portion of the loan amount will be repaid to the lender even if you’re unable to make monthly payments for whatever reason.
This guarantee encourages and enables private lenders to offer VA loans with exceptionally attractive terms.
4. You can shop for the best VA loan rates
VA loans are neither originated nor funded by the VA. They are not direct loans from the government. Furthermore, mortgage rates for VA loans are not set by the VA itself.
Instead, VA loans are offered by U.S. banks, savings-and-loans institutions, credit unions, and mortgage lenders — each of which sets its own VA loan rates and fees.
This means you can shop around and compare loan offers and still choose the VA loan that works best for your budget.
5. VA loans don’t allow a prepayment penalty
A VA loan won’t restrict your right to sell the property partway through your loan term.
There’s no prepayment penalty or early-exit fee no matter within what time frame you decide to sell your home.
Furthermore, there are no restrictions regarding a refinance of your VA loan.
You can refinance your existing VA loan into another VA loan via the agency’s Interest Rate Reduction Refinance Loan (IRRRL) program, or switch into a non-VA loan at any time.
6. VA mortgages come in many varieties
A VA loan can have a fixed rate or an adjustable rate. In addition, you can use a VA loan to buy a house, condo, new-built home, manufactured home, duplex, or other types of properties.
Or, it can be used for refinancing your existing mortgage, making repairs or improvements to your home, or making your home more energy-efficient.
The choice is yours. A VA-approved lender can help you decide.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
7. It’s easier to qualify for VA loans
Like all mortgage types, VA loans require specific documentation, an acceptable credit history, and sufficient income to make your monthly payments.
But, compared to other loan programs, VA loan guidelines tend to be more flexible. This is made possible because of the VA loan guarantee.
The Department of Veterans Affairs genuinely wants to make the loan process easier for military members, veterans, and qualifying military spouses to buy or refinance a home.
8. VA loan closing costs are lower
The VA limits the closing costs lenders can charge to VA loan applicants. This is another way that a VA loan can be more affordable than other types of loans.
Money saved on closing costs can be used for furniture, moving costs, home improvements, or anything else.
9. The VA offers funding fee flexibility
VA loans require a “funding fee,” an upfront cost based on your loan amount, your type of eligible service, your down payment size, and other factors.
Funding fees don’t need to be paid in cash, though. The VA allows the fee to be financed with the loan, so nothing is due at closing.
And, not all VA borrowers will pay it. VA funding fees are normally waived for veterans who receive VA disability compensation and for unmarried surviving spouses of veterans who died in service or as a result of a service-connected disability.
10. VA loans are assumable
Most VA loans are “assumable,” which means you can transfer your VA loan to a future home buyer if that person is also VA-eligible.
Assumable loans can be a huge benefit when you sell your home — especially in a rising mortgage rate environment.
If your home loan has today’s low rate and market rates rise in the future, the assumption features of your VA become even more valuable.
VA loan rates
The VA loan is viewed as one of the lowest-risk mortgage types available on the market.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
This safety allows banks to lend to veteran borrowers at lower interest rates.
Today’s VA loan rates*
Loan Type
Current Mortgage Rate
VA 30-year FRM
% (% APR)
Conventional 30-year FRM
% (% APR)
VA 15-year FRM
% (% APR)
Conventional 15-year FRM
% (% APR)
*Current rates provided daily by partners of the Mortgage Reports. See our loan assumptions here.
VA rates are more than 25 basis points (0.25%) lower than conventional rates on average, according to data collected by mortgage software company Ellie Mae.
Most loan programs require higher down payment and credit scores than the VA home loan. In the open market, a VA loan should carry a higher rate due to more lenient lending guidelines and higher perceived risk.
Yet the result of the Veterans Affairs efforts to keep veterans in their homes means lower risk for banks and lower borrowing costs for eligible veterans.
VA mortgage calculator
Eligibility
Am I eligible for a VA home loan?
Contrary to popular belief, VA loans are available not only to veterans, but also to other classes of military members.
Find and lock a low VA loan rate today. Start here
The list of eligible VA borrowers includes:
Active-duty service members
Members of the National Guard
Reservists
Surviving spouses of veterans
Cadets at the U.S. Military, Air Force or Coast Guard Academy
Midshipmen at the U.S. Naval Academy
Officers at the National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration.
A minimum term of service is typically required.
Minimum service required for a VA mortgage
VA home loans are available to active-duty service members, veterans (unless dishonorably discharged), and in some cases, surviving family members.
To be eligible, you need to meet one of these service requirements:
You’ve served 181 days of active duty during peacetime
You’ve served 90 days of active duty during wartime
You’ve served six years in the Reserves or National Guard
Your spouse was killed in the line of duty and you have not remarried
Your eligibility for the VA home loan program never expires.
Veterans who earned their VA entitlement long ago are still using their benefit to buy homes.
The VA loan Certificate of Eligibility (COE)
What is a COE?
In order to show a mortgage company you are VA-eligible, you’ll need a Certificate of Eligibility (COE). Your lender can acquire one for you online, usually in a matter of seconds.
Verify your VA home loan eligibility. Start here
How to get your COE (Certificate of Eligibility)
Getting a Certificate of Eligibility (COE) is very easy in most cases. Simply have your lender order the COE through the VA’s automated system. Any VA-approved lender can do this.
Alternatively, you can order your certificate yourself through the VA benefits portal.
If the online system is unable to issue your COE, you’ll need to provide your DD-214 form to your lender or the VA.
Does a COE mean you are guaranteed a VA loan?
No, having a Certificate of Eligibility (COE) doesn’t guarantee a VA loan approval.
Your COE shows the lender you’re eligible for a VA loan, but no one is guaranteed VA loan approval.
You must still qualify for the loan based on VA mortgage guidelines. The guarantee part of the VA loan refers to the VA’s promise to the lender of repayment if the borrower defaults.
Qualifying for a VA mortgage
VA loan eligibility vs. qualification
Being eligible for VA home loan benefits based on your military status or affiliation doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll qualify for a VA loan.
You still have to qualify for a VA mortgage based on your credit, debt, and income.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
Minimum credit score for a VA loan
The VA has established no minimum credit score for a VA mortgage.
However, many VA mortgage lenders require minimum FICO scores of 620 or higher — so apply with many lenders if your credit score might be an issue.
Even VA lenders that allow lower credit scores don’t accept subprime credit.
VA underwriting guidelines state that applicants must have paid their obligations on time for at least the most recent 12 months to be considered satisfactory credit risks.
In addition, the VA usually requires a two-year waiting period following a Chapter 7 bankruptcy or foreclosure before it will insure a loan.
Borrowers in Chapter 13 must have made at least 12 on-time payments and secure the approval of the bankruptcy court.
Verify your VA loan home buying eligibility. Start here
VA loan debt-to-income ratios
The relationship of your debts and your income is called your debt-to-income ratio, or DTI.
VA underwriters divide your monthly debts (car payments, credit cards, and other accounts, plus your proposed housing expense) by your gross (before-tax) income to come up with your debt-to-income ratio.
For instance:
If your gross income is $4,000 per month
And your total monthly debt is $1,500 (including the new mortgage, property taxes and homeowners insurance, plus other debt payments)
Then your DTI is 37.5% (1500/4000=0.375)
A DTI over 41% means the lender has to apply additional formulas to see if you qualify under residual income guidelines.
VA residual income rules
VA underwriters perform additional calculations that can affect your mortgage approval.
Factoring in your estimated monthly utilities, your estimated taxes on income, and the area of the country in which you live, the VA arrives at a figure which represents your “true” costs of living.
It then subtracts that figure from your income to find your residual income (e.g. your money “left over” each month).
Think of the residual income calculation as a real-world simulation of your living expenses.
It is the VA’s best effort to ensure that military families have a stress-free homeownership experience.
Here is an example of how residual income works, assuming a family of four which is purchasing a 2,000 square-foot home on a $5,000 monthly income.
Future house payment, plus other debt payments: $2,500
Monthly estimated income taxes: $1,000
Monthly estimated utilities at $0.14 per square foot: $280
This leaves a residual income calculation of $1,220.
Now, compare that residual income to for a family of four:
Northeast Region: $1,025
Midwest Region: $1,003
South Region: $1,003
West Region: $1,117
The borrower in our example exceeds VA’s residual income standards in all parts of the country.
Therefore, despite the borrower’s debt-to-income ratio of 50%, the borrower could get approved for a VA loan.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
Qualifying for a VA loan with part-time income
You can qualify for this type of financing even if you have a part-time job or multiple jobs.
You must show a 2-year history of making consistent part-time income, and stability in the number of hours worked. The lender will make sure any income received appears stable. See our complete guide to getting a mortgage when you’re self-employed or work part-time.
VA funding fees and loan limits
About the VA funding fee
The VA charges an upfront fee to defray the costs of the program and make it sustainable for the future.
Veterans pay a lump sum that varies depending on the loan purpose and down payment amount.
The fee is normally wrapped into the loan. It does not add to the cash needed to close the loan.
Find out if you qualify for a VA loan. Start here
VA home purchase funding fees
Type of Military Service
Down Payment
Fee for First-Time Use
Fee for Subsequent Use
Active Duty, Reserves, and National Guard
None
2.3%
3.6%
5% or more
1.65%
1.65%
10% or more
1.4%
1.4%
VA cash-out refinance funding fees
Type of Military Service
Fee for First-Time Use
Fee for Subsequent Uses
Active Duty, Reserves, and National Guard
2.3%
3.6%
VA streamline refinances (IRRRL) & assumptions
Type of Military Service
Fee for First-Time Use
Fee for Subsequent Uses
Active Duty, Reserves, and National Guard
0.5%
0.5%
Manufactured home loans not permanently affixed
Type of Military Service
Fee for First-Time Use
Fee for Subsequent Uses
Active Duty, Reserves, and National Guard
1.0%
1.0%
VA loan limits in 2024
VA loan limits have been repealed, thanks to the Blue Water Navy Vietnam Veterans Act of 2019.
There is no maximum amount for which a home buyer can receive a VA loan, at least as far as the VA is concerned.
However, private lenders may set their own limits. So check with your lender if you are looking for a VA loan above local conforming loan limits.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
Eligible property types
Houses you can buy with a VA loan
VA mortgages are flexible about what types of property you can and can’t purchase. A VA loan can be used to buy a:
Detached house
Condo
New-built home
Manufactured home
Duplex, triplex or four-unit property
Find out if you qualify for a VA loan. Start here
You can also use a VA mortgage to refinance an existing loan for any of those types of properties.
VA loans and second homes
Federal regulations limit loans guaranteed by the Department of Veterans Affairs to “primary residences” only.
However, “primary residence” is defined as the home in which you live “most of the year.”
Therefore, if you own an out-of-state residence in which you live for more than six months of the year, this other home, whether it’s your vacation home or retirement property, becomes your official “primary residence.”
For this reason, VA loans are popular among aging military borrowers.
Buying a multi-unit home with a VA loan
VA loans allow you to buy a duplex, triplex, or four-plex with 100% financing. You must live in one of the units.
Buying a home with more than one unit can be challenging.
Mortgage lenders consider these properties riskier to finance than traditional, single-family residences, so you’ll need to be a stronger borrower.
VA underwriters must make sure you will have enough emergency savings, or cash reserves, after closing on your house. That’s to ensure you’ll have money to pay your mortgage even if a tenant fails to pay rent or moves out.
The minimum cash reserves needed after closing is six months of mortgage payments (covering principal, interest, taxes, and insurance – PITI).
Your lender will also want to know about previous landlord experience you’ve had, or any experience with property maintenance or renting.
If you don’t have any, you may be able to sidestep that issue by hiring a property management company. But that’s up to the individual lender.
Your lender will look at the income (or potential income) of the rental units, using either existing rental agreements or an appraiser’s opinion of what the units should fetch.
They’ll usually take 75% of that amount to offset your mortgage payment when calculating your monthly expenses.
VA loans and rental properties
You cannot use a VA loan to buy a rental property. You can, however, use a VA loan to refinance an existing rental home you once occupied as a primary home.
For home purchases, in order to obtain a VA loan, you must certify that you intend to occupy the home as your principal residence.
If the property is a duplex, triplex, or four-unit apartment building, you must occupy one of the units yourself. Then you can rent out the other units.
The exception to this rule is the VA’s Interest Rate Reduction Refinance Loan (IRRRL).
This loan, also known as the VA Streamline Refinance, can be used for refinancing an existing VA loan on a home where you currently live or where you used to live, but no longer do.
Check your VA IRRRL eligibility. Start here
Buying a condo with a VA loan
The VA maintains a list of approved condo projects within which you may purchase a unit with a VA loan.
At VA’s website, you can search for the thousands of approved condominium complexes across the U.S.
If you are VA-eligible and in the market for a condo, make sure the unit you’re interested in is approved.
As a buyer, you are probably not able to get the complex VA-approved. That’s up to the management company or homeowner’s association.
If a condo you like is not approved, you must use other financing like an FHA or conventional loan or find another property.
Note that the condo must meet FHA or conventional guidelines if you want to use those types of financing.
Veteran mortgage relief with the VA loan
The U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs, or VA, provides home retention assistance. The VA intervenes when a veteran is having trouble making home loan payments.
The VA works with loan servicers to offer loan options to the veteran, other than foreclosure.
Find out if you qualify for a VA loan. Start here
In fiscal year 2019, the VA made over 400,000 contact actions to reach borrowers and loan servicers. The intent was to work out a mutually agreeable repayment option for both parties.
More than 100,000 veteran homeowners avoided foreclosure in 2019 alone thanks to this effort.
The initiative has saved the taxpayer an estimated $2.6 billion. More importantly, vast numbers of veterans and military families got another chance at homeownership.
When NOT to use a VA loan
If you have good credit and 20% down
A primary advantage to VA home loans is the lack of mortgage insurance.
However, the VA guarantee does not come free of charge. Borrowers pay an upfront funding fee, which they usually choose to add to their loan amount.
The fee ranges from 1.4% to 3.6%, depending on the down payment percentage and whether the home buyer has previously used his or her VA mortgage eligibility. The most common fee is 2.3%.
Find out if you qualify for a VA loan. Start here
On a $200,000 purchase, a 2.3% fee equals $4,600.
However, buyers who choose a conventional mortgage and put 20% down get to avoid mortgage insurance and the upfront fee. For these military home buyers, the VA funding fee might be an unnecessary expense.
The exception: Mortgage applicants whose credit rating or income meets VA guidelines but not those of conventional mortgages may still opt for VA.
If you’re on the “CAIVRS” list
To qualify for a VA loan, you must prove you have made good on previous government-backed debts and that you have paid taxes.
The Credit Alert Verification Reporting System, or “CAIVRS,” is a database of consumers who have defaulted on government obligations. These individuals are not eligible for the VA home loan program.
If you have a non-veteran co-borrower
Veterans often apply to buy a home with a non-veteran who is not their spouse.
This is okay. However, it might not be their best choice.
As the veteran, your income must cover your half of the loan payment. The non-veteran’s income cannot be used to compensate for the veteran’s insufficient income.
Plus, when a non-veteran owns half the loan, the VA guarantees only half that amount. The lender will require a 12.5% down payment for the non-guaranteed portion.
The Conventional 97 mortgage, on the other hand, allows down payments as low as 3%.
Another low-down-payment mortgage option is the FHA home loan, for which 3.5% down is acceptable.
The USDA home loan also requires zero down payment and offers similar rates to VA loans. However, the property must be within USDA-eligible areas.
If you plan to borrow with a non-veteran, one of these loan types might be your better choice.
Explore your mortgage options. Start here
If you apply with a credit-challenged spouse
In states with community property laws, VA lenders must consider the credit rating and financial obligations of your spouse. This rule applies even if he or she will not be on the home’s title or even on the mortgage.
Such states are as follows.
Arizona
California
Idaho
Louisiana
Nevada
New Mexico
Texas
Washington
Wisconsin
A spouse with less-than-perfect credit or who owes alimony, child support, or other maintenance can make your VA approval more challenging.
Apply for a conventional loan if you qualify for the mortgage by yourself. The spouse’s financial history and status need not be considered if he or she is not on the loan application.
Verify your VA loan home buying eligibility. Start here
If you want to buy a vacation home or investment property
The purpose of VA financing is to help veterans and active-duty service members buy and live in their own home. This loan is not meant to build real estate portfolios.
These loans are for primary residences only, so if you want a ski cabin or rental, you’ll have to get a conventional loan.
If you want to purchase a high-end home
Starting January 2020, there are no limits to the size of mortgage a lender can approve.
However, lenders may establish their own limits for VA loans, so check with your lender before applying for a large VA loan.
Spouses and the VA mortgage program
What spouses are eligible for a VA loan?
What if the service member passes away before he or she uses the benefit? Eligibility passes to an unremarried spouse, in many cases.
Find and lock a low VA loan rate today. Start here
For the surviving spouse to be eligible, the deceased service member must have:
Died in the line of duty
Passed away as a result of a service-connected disability
Been missing in action, or a prisoner of war, for at least 90 days
Been a totally disabled veteran for at least 10 years prior to death, and died from any cause
Also eligible are remarried spouses who married after the age of 57, on or after December 16, 2003.
In these cases, the surviving spouse can use VA loan eligibility to buy a home with zero down payment, just as the veteran would have.
VA loan benefits for surviving spouses
Surviving spouses have an additional VA loan benefit, however. They are exempt from the VA funding fee. As a result, their loan balance and monthly payment will be lower.
Surviving spouses are also eligible for a VA streamline refinance when they meet the following guidelines.
The surviving spouse was married to the veteran at the time of death
The surviving spouse was on the original VA loan
VA streamline refinancing is typically not available when the deceased veteran was the only applicant on the original VA loan, even if he or she got married after buying the home.
In this case, the surviving spouse would need to qualify for a non-VA refinance, or a VA cash-out loan.
A cash-out mortgage through VA requires the military spouse to meet home purchase eligibility requirements.
If this is the case, the surviving spouse can tap into the home’s equity to raise cash for any purpose, or even pay off an FHA or conventional loan to eliminate mortgage insurance.
Qualifying if you receive (or pay) child support or alimony
Buying a home after a divorce is no easy task.
If, prior to your divorce, you lived in a two-income household, you now have less spending power and a reduced monthly income for purposes of your VA home loan application.
With less income, it can be harder to meet both the VA Home Loan Guaranty’s debt-to-income (DTI) guidelines and the VA residual income requirement for your area.
Receiving alimony or child support can counteract a loss of income.
Mortgage lenders will not require you to provide information about your divorce agreement’s alimony or child support terms, but if you’re willing to disclose, it can count toward qualifying for a home loan.
Different VA-approved lenders will treat alimony and child support income differently.
Typically, you will be asked to provide a copy of your divorce settlement or other court paperwork to support the alimony and child support payments.
Lenders will then want to see that the payments are stable, reliable, and likely to continue for another 36 months, at least.
You may also be asked to show proof that alimony and child support payments have been made in the past reliably, so that the lender may use the income as part of your VA loan application.
If you are the payor of alimony and child support payments, your debt-to-income ratio can be harmed.
Not only might you be losing the second income of your dual-income households, but you’re making additional payments that count against your outflows.
VA mortgage lenders make careful calculations with respect to such payments.
You can still get approved for a VA loan while making such payments — it’s just more difficult to show sufficient monthly income.
VA loan assumption
What is VA loan assumption?
One benefit for home buyers is that VA loans are assumable. When you assume a mortgage loan, you take over the current homeowner’s monthly payment.
Verify your VA loan home buying eligibility. Start here
That could be a big advantage if mortgage rates have risen since the original owner purchased the home. The buyer would be able to acquire a low-rate, affordable loan — and it could make it easier for the seller to find a willing buyer in a tough market.
VA loan assumption savings
Buying a home via an assumable mortgage loan is even more appealing when interest rates are on the rise.
For example:
Say a seller-financed $200,000 for their home in 2013 at an interest rate of 3.25% on a 30-year fixed loan
Using this scenario, their principal and interest payment would be $898 per month
Let’s assume current 30-year fixed rates averaged 4.10%
If you financed $200,000 at 4.10% for a 30-year loan term, your monthly principal and interest payment would be $966 per month
Additionally, because the seller has already paid four years into the loan term, they’ve already paid nearly $25,000 in interest on the loan.
By assuming the loan, you would save $34,560 over the 30-year loan due to the difference in interest rates. You would also save roughly $25,000 thanks to the interest already paid by the sellers.
That comes out to a total savings of almost $60,000!
How to assume (take on) a VA loan
There are currently two ways to assume a VA loan.
The new buyer is a qualified veteran who “substitutes” his or her VA eligibility for the eligibility of the seller
The new home buyer qualifies through VA standards for the mortgage payment. This is the safest method for the seller as it allows the loan to be assumed knowing that the new buyer is responsible for the loan, and the seller is no longer responsible for the loan
The lender and/or the VA needs to approve a loan assumption.
Loans serviced by a lender with automatic authority may process assumptions without sending them to a VA Regional Loan Center.
For lenders without automatic authority, the loan must be sent to the appropriate VA Regional Loan Center for approval. This loan process will typically take several weeks.
When VA loans are assumed, it’s the servicer’s responsibility to make sure the homeowner who assumes the property meets both VA and lender requirements.
VA loan assumption requirements
For a VA mortgage assumption to take place, the following conditions must be met:
The existing loan must be current. If not, any past due amounts must be paid at or before closing
The buyer must qualify based on VA credit and income standards
The buyer must assume all mortgage obligations, including repayment to the VA if the loan goes into default
The original owner or new owner must pay a funding fee of 0.5% of the existing principal loan balance
A processing fee must be paid in advance, including a reasonable estimate for the cost of the credit report
Find out if you qualify for a VA loan. Start here
Finding assumable VA loans
There are several ways for home buyers to find an assumable VA loan.
Believe it or not, print media is still alive and well. Some home sellers advertise their assumable home for sale in the newspaper, or in a local real estate publication.
There are a number of online resources for finding assumable mortgage loans.
Websites like TakeList.com and Zumption.com give homeowners a way to showcase their properties to home buyers looking to assume a loan.
With the help of the Multiple Listing Service (MLS), real estate agents remain a great resource for home buyers.
This applies to home buyers specifically searching for assumable VA loans as well.
How do I apply for a VA loan?
You can easily and quickly have a lender pull your certificate of eligibility (COE) to make sure you’re able to get a VA loan.
Most mortgage lenders offer VA home loans. So you’re free to shop and compare rates with just about any company that catches your eye.
Getting a VA loan for your new home is similar in many ways to securing any other purchase loan. Once you find an ideal home in your price range, you make a purchase offer, and then undergo VA appraisal and underwriting.
VA appraisal ensures that the home meets its minimum property requirements (MPRs) and is structurally sound and safe for occupancy.
What’s more, VA-specific mortgage lenders are actually some of the highest-rated (and lowest-priced) on the market. Here are a few we’d recommend checking out.
Time to make a move? Let us find the right mortgage for you
Your credit score is a three-digit number that reflects your credit history. It’s not the complete financial picture, but lenders consider it when evaluating you for lines of credit and insurance.
But there are multiple versions of your credit score.
For the majority of lending decisions most lenders use your FICO score. Calculated by the data analytics company Fair Isaac Corporation, it’s based on data from credit reports about your payment history, credit mix, length of credit history and other criteria.
Some lenders use another scoring model, VantageScore, especially credit card companies.
But if you’re applying for a mortgage, the score on your application might be different from either of them.
Here’s what you need to know about credit scores if you’re looking to buy a home.
What we’ll cover
Compare offers to find the best mortgage
The credit score used in mortgage applications
While the FICO® 8 model is the most widely used scoring model for general lending decisions, banks use the following FICO scores when you apply for a mortgage:
FICO® Score 2 (Experian)
FICO® Score 5 (Equifax)
FICO® Score 4 (TransUnion)
All the credit reporting agencies use a slightly different version of the FICO score. That’s because FICO tweaks its model to best predict creditworthiness in different industries. You’re still evaluated on the same core factors — payment history, credit use, credit mix and the age of your accounts— but they’re weighed a little differently.
That makes sense — paying off a mortgage is different than using a credit card responsibly.
The FICO 8 model used by credit card companies is more critical of high balances on revolving credit lines. Since revolving credit is less of a factor when it comes to mortgages, the FICO 2, 4 and 5 models have proven to be reliable when evaluating candidates for a mortgage.
Mortgage lenders pull all three credit reports
According to Darrin English, a senior community development loan officer at Quontic Bank, mortgage lenders request your FICO scores from all three bureaus — Equifax, Transunion and Experian. But they only use one when making their final decision.
If all of your scores are the same, the choice is simple. But what if your scores are different?
“We’ll use the median as the qualifying credit score,” English said. “It’s called a tri-merge.”
If two of the three scores are identical, lenders use that one, he added, regardless of whether it’s higher or lower than the third.
If you are applying for a mortgage with a co-signer, like a spouse, each applicant’s FICO 2, 4 and 5 scores are pulled. The lender identifies the median score for each of you, and then uses the lower of the two.
How your credit score affects interest rates
Knowing your credit score is the first step in getting the best rates on your mortgage.
According to FICO, a borrower with a credit score of 760 can expect an interest rate of 6.47% on a 30-year fixed mortgage. For a borrower with a score between 620 and 639 (considered subprime), that rate would be 8.05%.
A 1.58% APR savings may seem negligible, but it could save you hundreds each month and thousands over the life of the loan.
How to improve your credit
Your credit score reflects your history of paying off debt. A higher score can save you thousands in interest payments over the life of your mortgage. If you want to improve your score:
Make on-time payments in full, especially on revolving credit like credit cards.
Ask to increase your credit limit on existing cards
Keep your credit utilization rate under 30%
Avoid opening new lines of credit
Try to get credit for utility payments
*Experian Boost™ is a free service that updates your Experian credit report with on-time payments to your mobile carrier, power company and other utilities not usually linked to credit-reporting agencies. According to the company, users whose FICO scores improve see an average increase of 13 points.
Experian Boost™
On Experian’s secure site
Cost
Average credit score increase
13 points, though results vary
Credit report affected
Experian®
Credit scoring model used
FICO® Score
Results will vary. See website for details.
How to monitor your credit
Since the mortgage industry looks at all three credit reports, consider a paid credit monitoring service that pulls more comprehensive data than a free version would.
In addition to providing regular updates on your FICO score, Experian IdentityWork℠ Premium examines data from all three credit bureaus and informs users about score changes, new inquiries and accounts, changes to your personal information and suspicious activity.
Experian IdentityWorks℠
On Experian’s secure site
Cost
Free for 30 days, then $9.99 to $19.99 per month
Credit bureaus monitored
Experian for Plus plan or Experian, Equifax and TransUnion for Premium plan
Credit scoring model used
Dark web scan
Identity insurance
Yes, up to $500,000 for Plus plan and up to $1 million for Premium plan*
Terms apply.
*Identity Theft Insurance underwritten by insurance company subsidiaries or affiliates of American International Group, Inc. (AIG). The description herein is a summary and intended for informational purposes only and does not include all terms, conditions and exclusions of the policies described. Please refer to the actual policies for terms, conditions, and exclusions of coverage. Coverage may not be available in all jurisdictions.
The most accurate way to keep tabs on your mortgage-specific credit score is with the advanced version of MyFICO®, which shares versions of your FICO score calculated for credit cards, home and auto loans and more for $29.95 a month.
You’ll also have access to $1 million in identity theft insurance and 24-hour expert help if your identity is compromised.
FICO® Basic, Advanced and Premier
On myFICO’s secure site
Cost
$19.95 to $39.95 per month
Credit bureaus monitored
Experian for Basic plan or Experian, Equifax and TransUnion for Advanced and Premier plans
Credit scoring model used
Dark web scan
Yes, for Advanced and Premier plans
Identity insurance
Yes, up to $1 million
Terms apply.
Bottom line
Mortgage lenders use a specific version of your credit score to determine if you’re a good candidate for a home loan. Make sure to monitor the credit score that matters to mortgage lenders if you’re looking to buy a home soon.
Meet our experts
At CNBC Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. For this story, we interviewed Darrin English, a senior community development loan officer at Quontic Bank.
Why trust CNBC Select?
At CNBC Select, our mission is to provide our readers with high-quality service journalism and comprehensive consumer advice so they can make informed decisions with their money. Every review is based on rigorous reporting by our team of expert writers and editors with extensive knowledge of credit monitoringproducts. While CNBC Select earns a commission from affiliate partners on many offers and links, we create all our content without input from our commercial team or any outside third parties, and we pride ourselves on our journalistic standards and ethics.
Catch up on CNBC Select’s in-depth coverage of credit cards, banking and money, and follow us on TikTok, Facebook, Instagram and Twitter to stay up to date.
*Results may vary. Some may not see improved scores or approval odds. Not all lenders use Experian credit files, and not all lenders use scores impacted by Experian Boost.
Editorial Note: Opinions, analyses, reviews or recommendations expressed in this article are those of the Select editorial staff’s alone, and have not been reviewed, approved or otherwise endorsed by any third party.
What happens to your bank account when you die will depend on what type of bank account it is, how you set up the account, and whether you have a will.
When the owner of a bank account dies, the transfer process is fairly straightforward if the account has a joint owner or named beneficiary. Otherwise, the account becomes part of the deceased owner’s estate and is settled during probate.
Understanding what happens to your money after you die can help you manage a bank account after losing a loved one, and also prompt you to set up your accounts in a way that minimizes complications for your survivors down the line.
Read on for key things to know about what happens to a bank account when someone dies.
How Do Banks Discover When Someone Died?
There are two main ways a bank discovers when an account holder has died:
• Family member or beneficiary Commonly, a family member will let the bank know when one of their bank account holders has died. To inform a bank about the death of a loved one, you’ll need to present a copy of the death certificate, the deceased person’s Social Security number, and proof that you can act on behalf of the estate (such as ID showing you are the account’s joint owner or beneficiary or Letter of Testamentary to show your executor status).
• Social Security Administration Funeral directors usually report the death of a person to the Social Security Administration to ensure no more Social Security checks are issued to that individual. If any checks were sent after the person’s death, Social Security will contact the bank to get the payment returned. This is another way a bank may learn about the death of an account holder.
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Sole Owner Bank Account Rules on Death
What happens to a deceased person’s bank account if they were the sole owner of the account will depend on whether or not the account has a payable on death (POD) beneficiary.
If there is a beneficiary named, the money in the account goes to the beneficiary after the sole account owner dies. Regardless of whether there’s a will and what’s in the will, the beneficiary automatically inherits the designated account’s funds upon the account owner’s death.
A beneficiary can claim bank account funds by contacting the bank and providing valid ID and a death certificate. The bank will typically then release the funds to that person and close the account. If the beneficiary is a minor when the account owner dies, someone must be appointed to manage the money on the minor’s behalf.
What happens if no beneficiary is named on a bank account? If the sole owner of a bank account dies and no beneficiary was named, the account becomes part of the deceased person’s estate (which is the sum total of the assets the person left behind). The money is then settled during probate.
Probate is the legal process for distributing a dead person’s assets, often as outlined in their will, as well as settling their remaining debts.
Joint Bank Account Rules on Death
In most cases, the surviving joint owner of a joint bank account will have automatic rights of survivorship, which grants them ownership of the entire account balance. That person can typically continue to use the checking or savings account without any interruptions.
However, the surviving account holder will still need to contact the bank and provide a death certificate or other documentation to confirm the death and update account records. Banks generally have a process you need to follow upon an account owner’s death. The surviving joint account holder may be able to remove the deceased from the account or open a new individual account.
Recommended: 11 Financial Planning Steps to Take After a Spouse’s Death
What Happens if No Beneficiary Is Named on a Bank Account?
If the deceased person is the sole owner of the bank account and did not name a beneficiary, the executor of the deceased’s will is typically responsible for handling any assets in their estate (including money in bank accounts).
The executor will typically transfer funds contained in the bank account into an account in the name of the decedent’s estate, and they may be able to access those funds to satisfy the decedent’s debts and pay probate costs. They will then distribute any remaining funds to those named in the will.
If there is no will to name an executor, the state appoints one based on local law. After paying off any debts, the named executor will distribute the money according to local inheritance laws.
Recommended: Why Everyone Needs an Estate Plan
Tips to Avoiding Complications Upon Death
There are some simple steps you can take now to make it easier for your loved ones to sort out your affairs and access your bank accounts after you die. Here are some to consider.
• Add a joint owner. Naming a spouse or other family member as a joint account holder is a simple way to ensure someone has access to the money when you die. In most cases, the joint account holder can simply take over the funds.
• Set up beneficiary designations. Most financial institutions make it easy to name a POD beneficiary on your bank accounts. Taking a few minutes to name one can mean less headaches for your loved ones down the road. Unlike a joint owner, a beneficiary cannot access the account while you’re alive.
• Write a will. Having a will still means your assets will need to go through the probate process before they can be distributed to your loved ones. But at least it ensures that the money will go to the intended person.
• Set up a living trust. A well-set-up trust can mean that your assets don’t have to go through probate. Instead, the money can go to your heirs in a more timely manner. However, trusts can be costly to set up and maintain, and may not be worth it if you have a simple estate with few assets and potential heirs.
• Consolidate bank accounts. To make it easier for your loved ones to sort through your finances, consider streamlining your accounts. Too many checking and savings accounts, especially if the accounts are held at different banks, can make settling your affairs complicated and time consuming. Consolidating your accounts also helps ensure that no account gets forgotten.
The Takeaway
The easiest way to pass the money in your bank account to your loved ones is to name them as joint account holders or POD beneficiaries. Setting up a will is also an essential step in estate planning, but it may not guarantee that your loved ones will be able to access your bank accounts quickly.
Regardless of your choice, it’s a good idea to make some smart money moves now to make life easier for your loved ones while they are grieving.
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FAQ
Can you withdraw money from a deceased person’s account?
You can withdraw money from a deceased person’s account if you’re a joint owner of the account. Otherwise, you need to present documents to the bank to show you have a legal right to access the money in the account. For example, if you’re named as a beneficiary on the bank account, you will be required to show government-issued ID and a death certificate. If you’re the executor of the deceased’s will, you will need to present a Letter of Testamentary and a death certificate, among other documents.
How do I get money from my deceased parents’ bank account?
If you are named as the account’s beneficiary, you’ll be able to get the money from your deceased parent’s bank account by presenting certain documents to the bank, such as a government-issued ID and a death certificate. If no beneficiary is named on the account, you’ll likely need to wait until your parent’s estate is settled during probate. This is a legal process during which assets are distributed according to the deceased’s will or special laws in the absence of a will.
What happens to the bank account of a dead person?
It depends on how the account was set up. If there is a joint owner, the surviving owner will typically become the sole owner of the account.
If there are no surviving owners and a named beneficiary on the account, the funds will go to the beneficiary. If no beneficiary is listed, the account will become part of the deceased owner’s estate and settled during probate. This is a legal process during which a deceased person’s assets are distributed according to their will or special laws in the absence of a will.
Photo credit: iStock/nortonrsx
SoFi members with direct deposit activity can earn 4.60% annual percentage yield (APY) on savings balances (including Vaults) and 0.50% APY on checking balances. Direct Deposit means a deposit to an account holder’s SoFi Checking or Savings account, including payroll, pension, or government payments (e.g., Social Security), made by the account holder’s employer, payroll or benefits provider or government agency (“Direct Deposit”) via the Automated Clearing House (“ACH”) Network during a 30-day Evaluation Period (as defined below). Deposits that are not from an employer or government agency, including but not limited to check deposits, peer-to-peer transfers (e.g., transfers from PayPal, Venmo, etc.), merchant transactions (e.g., transactions from PayPal, Stripe, Square, etc.), and bank ACH funds transfers and wire transfers from external accounts, do not constitute Direct Deposit activity. There is no minimum Direct Deposit amount required to qualify for the stated interest rate.
SoFi members with Qualifying Deposits can earn 4.60% APY on savings balances (including Vaults) and 0.50% APY on checking balances. Qualifying Deposits means one or more deposits that, in the aggregate, are equal to or greater than $5,000 to an account holder’s SoFi Checking and Savings account (“Qualifying Deposits”) during a 30-day Evaluation Period (as defined below). Qualifying Deposits only include those deposits from the following eligible sources: (i) ACH transfers, (ii) inbound wire transfers, (iii) peer-to-peer transfers (i.e., external transfers from PayPal, Venmo, etc. and internal peer-to-peer transfers from a SoFi account belonging to another account holder), (iv) check deposits, (v) instant funding to your SoFi Bank Debit Card, (vi) push payments to your SoFi Bank Debit Card, and (vii) cash deposits. Qualifying Deposits do not include: (i) transfers between an account holder’s Checking account, Savings account, and/or Vaults; (ii) interest payments; (iii) bonuses issued by SoFi Bank or its affiliates; or (iv) credits, reversals, and refunds from SoFi Bank, N.A. (“SoFi Bank”) or from a merchant.
SoFi Bank shall, in its sole discretion, assess each account holder’s Direct Deposit activity and Qualifying Deposits throughout each 30-Day Evaluation Period to determine the applicability of rates and may request additional documentation for verification of eligibility. The 30-Day Evaluation Period refers to the “Start Date” and “End Date” set forth on the APY Details page of your account, which comprises a period of 30 calendar days (the “30-Day Evaluation Period”). You can access the APY Details page at any time by logging into your SoFi account on the SoFi mobile app or SoFi website and selecting either (i) Banking > Savings > Current APY or (ii) Banking > Checking > Current APY. Upon receiving a Direct Deposit or $5,000 in Qualifying Deposits to your account, you will begin earning 4.60% APY on savings balances (including Vaults) and 0.50% on checking balances on or before the following calendar day. You will continue to earn these APYs for (i) the remainder of the current 30-Day Evaluation Period and through the end of the subsequent 30-Day Evaluation Period and (ii) any following 30-day Evaluation Periods during which SoFi Bank determines you to have Direct Deposit activity or $5,000 in Qualifying Deposits without interruption.
SoFi Bank reserves the right to grant a grace period to account holders following a change in Direct Deposit activity or Qualifying Deposits activity before adjusting rates. If SoFi Bank grants you a grace period, the dates for such grace period will be reflected on the APY Details page of your account. If SoFi Bank determines that you did not have Direct Deposit activity or $5,000 in Qualifying Deposits during the current 30-day Evaluation Period and, if applicable, the grace period, then you will begin earning the rates earned by account holders without either Direct Deposit or Qualifying Deposits until you have Direct Deposit activity or $5,000 in Qualifying Deposits in a subsequent 30-Day Evaluation Period. For the avoidance of doubt, an account holder with both Direct Deposit activity and Qualifying Deposits will earn the rates earned by account holders with Direct Deposit.
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Interest rates are variable and subject to change at any time. These rates are current as of 10/24/2023. There is no minimum balance requirement. Additional information can be found at https://www.sofi.com/legal/banking-rate-sheet.
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Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances.
The information provided on this website does not, and is not intended to, act as legal, financial or credit advice. See Lexington Law’s editorial disclosure for more information.
Some credit facts you need to know are your credit score is based on five key factors, FICO credit scores range from 300 to 850, checking your own credit won’t hurt your score, and twelve more facts outlined below.
With all of the misleading and incorrect information about credit floating around, it’s no wonder some of us feel lost when it comes to our credit reports and credit scores. Fortunately, we’re here to help set everything straight with these simple and clear explanations.
We’ve taken the time to compile the most important credit facts you need to know to understand your credit and everything that impacts it. Just as importantly, we’re setting the record straight when it comes to credit myths that have been lingering for too long. Read on to learn everything you’ve always wanted to know about credit.
1. Your credit score is based on five key factors
Most lenders make their decisions using FICO credit scores, which are based on five key factors. That means that when you apply for a new credit card or loan, these are the primary influences on whether you’ll end up getting approved. Here are the five factors, in order of importance: payment history, credit utilization, length of credit history, credit mix and new credit inquiries.
35% – Payment history. Your ability to consistently make payments has the biggest impact on your score. Having late and missed payments is detrimental to your credit score, while a streak of on-time payments has a positive effect.
30% – Credit utilization. Your utilization measures how much of your available credit you’re using across all of your cards. By using one-third or less of your total credit limit, you could help improve your credit.
15% – Length of credit history. In general, having a longer credit history is helpful, though it depends on how responsibly you’ve used credit over time. Using credit well over time signals to lenders that you can be trusted to manage your finances.
10% – New credit. Applying for new credit leads to hard inquiries, which can negatively impact your credit score. Spacing out your new credit applications—and only applying for credit when you need it—helps your score.
10% – Credit mix. Having a variety of different types of credit—like credit cards, an auto loan or a mortgage—can influence your score as well. A diverse credit portfolio demonstrates your ability to successfully manage different types of credit.
With the knowledge of exactly how your score gets calculated, you can make smarter decisions with credit.
Bottom line: Credit scores aren’t as mysterious as they first appear, and you have control over all of the factors that determine your score.
2. Credit reports are different than credit scores
Although they are related, a credit report and a credit score are different. Also, it’s a bit misleading to talk about a single credit report or a single credit score, because the reality is that you have several different credit reports, and your credit score can be calculated in many different ways.
A credit report is a collection of information about your credit behaviors, like the accounts you have and when you make payments. Three main bureaus—Experian, Equifax and TransUnion—each publish a separate credit report about you.
A credit score uses the information in your credit report to create a numerical representation of your creditworthiness. In other words, all of the information in your report is simplified into a single number that gives lenders an idea of how likely you are to repay a debt.
Surprisingly, your credit report does not include a credit score. Instead, lenders who access your report use formulas to determine a score when you apply for credit. The most common scoring models are FICO and VantageScore, but lenders can make modifications to the calculations to give more weight to areas that are more important to them.
Bottom line: You’ll want to be familiar with both your credit reports and your credit scores, as they each play a role in helping you obtain new credit.
3. Negative credit items will eventually come off your credit report
Negative items on your credit report can cause damage to your credit score. Negative items include late payments, collection accounts, foreclosures and repossessions.
Although these items can lead to significant drops in your credit score, their effect is not permanent. Over time, negative items have a smaller and smaller impact on your score, as long as your credit behaviors improve so that more recent items are more favorable.
Additionally, most negative items should remain on your report for seven years at the most due to the regulations set by the Fair Credit Reporting Act. A bankruptcy, on the other hand, can last up to 10 years in some cases.
Bottom line: Negative items can cause a decrease in your credit score, but they aren’t permanent. Start building new credit behaviors and your score can recover over time.
4. FICO credit scores range from 300 to 850
One of the most common credit scoring models is produced by the Fair Isaac Corporation, also known as FICO. While you may hear “FICO score” and “credit score” used interchangeably, there are in fact several different scoring models, so you could have a different credit score depending on which lender or financial institution you’re working with. The score you’re assigned by FICO will usually always be in a range from 300 to 850.
Accessing your FICO score gives you the chance to have a high-level overview of your credit health. Scores that are considered good, very good or exceptional often make it much easier to get new credit cards or loans when you need them. On the other hand, scores that are fair or poor can make getting new credit more difficult.
Here’s an overview of the FICO scoring ranges:
800 – 850: Exceptional
740 – 799: Very Good
670 – 739: Good
580 – 669: Fair
300 – 579: Poor
Remember, though: credit scores are not fixed and permanent. Your score responds to factors like payments, utilization and credit history, so positive decisions now will benefit your score in the long term.
Bottom line: The FICO scoring ranges lay out broad categories to give you a sense of how you’re doing with credit—and can also help you set a goal for where you want to be.
5. The majority of lenders use FICO scores when making decisions
While there are multiple credit scoring models, the majority of lenders check FICO scores when making decisions. That means that when you apply for new credit—whether it’s a credit card, a loan or a mortgage—the score that’s more likely to matter is your FICO score.
That’s important to know, because many free credit monitoring services will show you score estimates or your VantageScore. Some credit card companies provide a FICO score, however, and you can also request to see the credit score that lenders used to make their decision during the application process.
Fortunately, credit scoring models tend to reference the same data and weight factors fairly similarly. That means if you make on-time payments, keep your utilization low, avoid opening up too many new accounts and have a consistent credit history with a variety of accounts, you’ll probably be in good shape regardless.
Bottom line: Knowing your FICO score can help you have an idea of how lenders will view your application for new credit.
6. You have many different types of credit scores
Credit scores vary based on the credit bureau reporting them and the credit scoring model used. The major credit bureaus all have slightly different information regarding your credit history. This means that these three, along with other credit reporting agencies, report several FICO credit scores to lenders to account for different information they’ve collected.
There are also different scores specific to particular industries. For example, auto lenders review different risk factors than mortgage lenders, so the scores each lender receives might differ. Although it can get confusing, the most important things to remember are the five core factors that affect your credit score.
Bottom line: Although many people reference their credit score in the singular, the truth is that there are many different types of credit scores that take into account different factors.
7. Checking your own credit won’t hurt your score
Many people believe that checking their credit score or credit report hurts their credit, but fortunately, this isn’t true. Getting a copy of your credit report or checking your score doesn’t affect your credit score. These actions are called “soft” inquiries into your credit, and while they are noted on your credit report, they shouldn’t have any effect on your score.
Hard inquiries, on the other hand, are noted when lenders look at your credit during an application process—and these can temporarily reduce your score. This is used to discourage you from applying for new credit too frequently. However, the effect is typically small, and after a couple of years the notation of a hard inquiry will leave your report.
Bottom line: You can check your own credit report and credit score without any negative effect—and we actually encourage you to do so to stay on top of your credit health.
8. You can check your credit score and credit reports for free
There are three main ways to check your credit for free. You’ll likely want to take a look at both your credit reports and your credit scores. Here’s how to get a hold of both of those:
You’re entitled to a free credit report once each year by visiting AnnualCreditReport.com, a government-sponsored website that gives you access to your reports from TransUnion, Experian and Equifax.
You may be able to check your credit score free by contacting your bank or credit card company. Additionally, many free services—like Mint—enable you to monitor your score for free. Just make sure to note which kind of credit score you’re seeing, because there are many different scoring methods.
The information you find in your credit report lays out the factors that determine your credit score. By scanning your report closely, you’ll likely find out the best strategy for improving your score—for instance, by improving your payment history or lowering your utilization.
Bottom line: Information about your credit is freely available, so take advantage of those resources to stay on top of your credit report and score.
9. Your credit score can cost you money
Ultimately, the purpose of credit scores is to help lenders determine whether they should offer you new credit, like a loan or a credit card. A lower score indicates that you may be at greater risk for default—which means the lender has to worry that you won’t pay back your debts.
To offset this risk, lenders often deny credit applications for those with lower scores, or they extend credit with high interest rates. These interest rates can cost you a lot of money over time, so working to improve your credit score can have a measurable effect on your financial life.
Consider, for example, a $25,000 auto loan. With a fair credit score, you may secure an interest rate of 5.3 percent—so you’ll pay a total of $3,513 in interest over five years. With an excellent credit score, your rate could drop to 3.1 percent, and you’ll save nearly $1,500 in interest charges over that same five-year period.
Bottom line: A good credit score can have a positive impact on your finances, and a bad score can cost you money in interest charges.
10. Canceling old credit cards can lower your score
If you have a credit card that you’re no longer using, you may be tempted to close the account entirely. Before doing that, though, consider how it could impact your credit score.
Recall that two credit factors are utilization and length of credit history. Closing an old account could affect one or both of those factors when it comes to calculating your score.
Your credit utilization could drop after closing an account because your credit limit will likely be lower. Since utilization represents all of your balances divided by your total credit limit, your utilization will go up if your credit limit goes down (and if your balances stay the same).
Your length of credit history could be lowered if you close an older account that is raising the average age of your credit.
Some people worry that having a zero balance on their credit card can negatively impact their score. This is just a credit myth. A zero balance means you aren’t using the card to make any purchases. Keeping the credit card open while not using it actually works to your benefit. You’re able to contribute to the length of your credit history, while not risking the chance of debt and late payments.
You may need to use the card every now and then to avoid having it closed. Additionally, if the card has an annual fee, you may need to close the card or ask to have the card downgraded to a version that does not have a fee. Still, if there’s a way to keep the card open, it’s often good to do so even if you don’t plan to regularly use it.
Bottom line: An old credit card can benefit your credit score even if you aren’t using it anymore.
11. You can still get a loan with bad credit
It’s true that getting a loan can be more difficult with bad credit, but it’s not impossible. There are bad credit loans specifically for people with lower credit scores. Note, however, that these loans often come with higher interest rates—or they require some sort of collateral that the lender can use to secure the loan. That means if you don’t pay your loan back, the lender will be able to seize the property you put up as collateral.
If you don’t need a loan immediately, you could consider trying to rebuild your credit before applying. There are credit builder loans, which are specifically designed to help you build up a strong payment history and improve your credit in the process. Unlike a traditional loan, you pay for a credit builder loan each month and then receive the sum after your final payment. Since these loans represent no risk to lenders, they’re often willing to extend them to people with poor credit history looking to raise their score.
Bottom line: You can get a loan even with bad credit—but sometimes it’s wise to find ways to raise your score before applying.
12. Credit scores aren’t the only deciding factor for lending decisions
While credit scores are important in lending decisions, lenders may take other factors into account when deciding whether to offer you new credit. For example, your income and employment can play a significant role in your approval odds. Additionally, some loans (like auto loans and mortgages) are secured by collateral that the lender can seize if you default. These loans may be considered less risky for the lender in certain cases because the asset can help offset any losses from nonpayment.
In many cases, your debt-to-income ratio is also an important factor in whether you’re approved for a loan or credit card. Lenders consider your current monthly debt payments (from all sources) as well as your monthly income to determine whether you may be overextended financially.
Two different people may pay $1,500 each month for student loans, a car payment and a mortgage. That said, if one individual makes $3,500 each month and the other makes $8,000 each month, their situations will be considered very differently by a potential lender.
Bottom line: Keeping your credit score high can help you secure credit when you need it, but you’ll want to stay on top of all aspects of your financial health.
13. Your credit report can help you spot fraud
Regularly checking your credit report can help you notice fraud or identity theft. If someone is using your information to open accounts, they will show up on your credit report.
If you notice an account that you did not open, you’ll want to start taking steps to protect your identity from any further damage. You may also want to freeze or lock your credit, which prevents anyone from using your information to open up more accounts.
Bottom line: Reviewing your credit report provides you an opportunity to notice when something is amiss.
14. Joint accounts affect your credit scores, but you do not have joint scores
If you have a joint account with someone else, that account will be reflected on both of your credit reports. For example, a loan that was opened by you and your spouse will show up for both of you—and will affect both of your credit scores. That said, your credit history, credit report and credit score remain separate. No one—including married couples—has a joint credit report or joint credit score.
In addition to joint accounts, you may also have authorized users on your credit card, or be an authorized user yourself. Authorized users have access to account funds, but they are not liable for debts. That means that if you make someone an authorized user on your credit card, they can rack up charges, but you’ll be on the hook if they don’t pay.
Because joint account owners and authorized users can influence credit scores in significant ways, we advise you to be careful about who you open accounts with or provide authorization to.
Bottom line: Even though joint account owners and authorized users can influence someone else’s credit, there are no shared credit reports or joint credit scores.
15. Many credit reports contain inaccurate credit information
The Federal Trade Commission found that one in five people has an error on at least one of their credit reports, and these inaccuracies can greatly impact your credit. (Also see this 2015 follow-up study from the FTC for more information regarding credit report errors.) This is why you should frequently check your credit report and dispute any inaccurate information. For example, since payment history accounts for 30 percent of your credit score, one wrong late payment can significantly hurt your score.
It’s important to get your credit facts straight so you understand exactly how different things impact your score. One of the first things you should learn is how to read your credit report so you can quickly spot discrepancies and ensure that the information reported is fair and accurate.
After scrutinizing your credit report, you can look into other ways to fix your credit, like paying late or past-due accounts, so you can help your credit with your newfound knowledge. You can also take advantage of Lexington Law Firm’s credit repair services to get extra help and additional legal knowledge to assist you.
Bottom line: Your credit report could have inaccurate information that’s hurting your score unfairly. Fortunately, there is a credit dispute process that can help you clean up your report and ensure all of the information on it is correct.
Note: Articles have only been reviewed by the indicated attorney, not written by them. The information provided on this website does not, and is not intended to, act as legal, financial or credit advice; instead, it is for general informational purposes only. Use of, and access to, this website or any of the links or resources contained within the site do not create an attorney-client or fiduciary relationship between the reader, user, or browser and website owner, authors, reviewers, contributors, contributing firms, or their respective agents or employers.
Reviewed By
Nature Lewis
Associate Attorney
Before joining Lexington Law as an Associate Attorney, Nature Lewis managed a successful practice representing tenants in Maricopa County.
Through her representation of tenants, Nature gained experience in Federal law, Family law, Probate, Consumer protection and Civil law. She received numerous accolades for her dedication to Tenant Protection in Arizona, including, John P. Frank Advocate for Justice Award in 2016, Top 50 Pro Bono Attorney of 2015, New Tenant Attorney of the Year in 2015 and Maricopa County Attorney of the Month in March 2015. Nature continued her dedication to pro bono work while volunteering at Community Legal Services’ Volunteer Lawyer’s Program and assisting victims of Domestic Violence at the local shelter. Nature is passionate about providing free knowledge to the underserved community and continues to hold free seminars about tenant rights and plans to incorporate consumer rights in her free seminars. Nature is a wife and mother of 5 children. She and her husband have been married for 24 years and enjoy traveling internationally, watching movies and promoting their indie published comic books!
In a standard home purchase scenario, prospective homebuyers apply with a lender to obtain conventional financing to get the new home on their wishlist.
Did you know, however, that there may be another financing option that could possibly benefit both the buyer and the seller under the right circumstances? We’re talking about the Assumable Mortgage.
What Is an Assumable Mortgage?
An assumable mortgage is a special type of home financing that allows a homebuyer to take over (or, assume) the seller’s existing mortgage and all of the terms that come with it, such as the interest rate, current balance, and repayment period. In cases where interest rates have gone up significantly since the seller originally bought and financed the home, this can present a savings opportunity that includes the low interest rate on the mortgage as part of the purchase of the home.
Which Types of Mortgages Are Assumable?
The loans that most often qualify for assumption are VA and FHA loans, which are backed by the federal government. Under certain circumstances conventional mortgages can also be assumable, but the majority of those loans contain a due-on-sale clause requiring the full balance of the loan to be paid upon transfer of property ownership, which makes the loan ineligible for assumption.
How Do Assumable Mortgages Work?
If you’re selling your home and the mortgage on the home is eligible for assumption, you can allow a qualified interested buyer to take over your mortgage as part of the sale of your home.
With the approval of your lender, the buyer would take over all of the responsibilities of your existing mortgage along with the home itself — including the interest rate and monthly payment — which can be significantly lower than the current rates and terms available for new mortgages. All of the terms of the loan would stay as is and simply be transferred over in the buyer’s name. You’ll want to be sure to get a written release of liability signed by both you (the original loan holder) and the lender to remove yourself from any further responsibility on the loan.
In the right circumstances, your buyer could save tens of thousands of dollars on an assumed mortgage since they’re effectively grandfathered in on what could be more favorable terms secured when the original loan was obtained. Given this unique benefit, you could potentially leverage that savings to justify a higher asking price for your home.
To illustrate the savings and benefits of this unique transaction, let’s explore an example scenario below from the buyer’s perspective.
Saving Money With an Assumable Mortgage
Let’s say you’re buying a home and you’d like to assume the mortgage on the home, appraised at $230,769 with a current remaining principal loan balance of $203,249. This means you would take over the payments on the remaining $203,249 and enjoy the original terms allotted to the assumed mortgage.
That still leaves $27,520 that must be paid in cash to the seller, which you can settle during the loan assumption transaction, much like a traditional down payment. If you cannot produce that entire cash amount to assume the loan, you may possibly be able to secure an additional personal loan to cover a portion of the difference. Keep in mind, however, that in most cases lenders who provide secondary financing will typically want to make sure that no more than 85 to 90 percent of the total appraised value of the home is being financed.
Here is an example comparison of a standard new FHA mortgage on a home selling for $230,769, versus an assumed FHA mortgage on the same home, with a lower fixed interest rate and five years already paid on the term.
New FHA Mortgage: A new 30-year FHA loan for a home priced and appraised at $230,769, with a principal loan balance of $222,692 (after the buyer put a minimum of 3.5% down, or approximately $8,077) with a fixed interest rate of 6.25%, will result in monthly payments of $1,371.15 (principal and interest only, excluding property taxes and insurance) totaling $493,615.06 over the life of the mortgage.
Assumable Mortgage: The assumption of a 30-year FHA loan with 25 years left on the term for a home selling for $230,769 with a remaining principal balance of $203,249 at the original interest rate of 2.5% results in a monthly payment of $911.81 and an approximate total loan cost of $273,543.07 (paid over 25 years).
New 30-Year FHA Mortgage
Assumable FHA Mortgage
Savings
Principal Loan Balance
$222,692
$203,249
N/A
Interest Rate
6.25%
2.5%
N/A
Down Payment
$8,077
$27,520
N/A
Monthly Payment(s)
$1,371.15
$911.81
$459.34
Total Loan Cost (principal +interest)
$493,615.06
$273,543.07
$220,071.99
Note: The example above does not include mortgage insurance. Mortgage Insurance (MI) may change depending on the LTV. Ask your loan officer for more information.
As illustrated above, if you are able to assume an eligible loan with an interest rate significantly lower than what is available on the market and have the ability to put down the additional cash to cover the equity owned by the seller (or obtain secondary financing), your savings could be substantial.
In the example scenario, your monthly mortgage payments for the 25 years remaining on the assumed loan would be $911.81. Compared to a new FHA loan with a higher market rate, this would result in a monthly savings of $459.34 and $220,071.99 saved over the entire life of your mortgage.
It is also worth noting that the less equity a seller has in their home, the more attractive an assumable mortgage may be to a buyer. For example, if that same assumable loan had an unpaid principal balance of $215,000, you’d only be responsible for a $15,769 difference instead of $27,520.
FHA Assumable Mortgage Requirements
Federal Housing Authority (FHA) loans qualify for assumption because they are free from the restrictions of due-on-sale clauses that are common in conventional mortgages.
Buyers wishing to assume an FHA mortgage must have a minimum credit score of 620, although buyers with scores above 580 may be eligible with additional restrictions. Similar to a conventional loan, your debt-to-income ratio including the assumed loan’s payment, cannot exceed 43% (although in special circumstances it can go as high as 50%).
VA Assumable Mortgage Requirements
The United States Department of Veterans Affairs (VA) has long offered one of the best home loan programs available for qualifying veterans, active military and their dependents.
A few important facts about VA loan assumptions:
As long as the buyer is VA-eligible, the seller’s VA entitlement remains intact.
If a buyer who is not VA-eligible assumes a VA loan, the seller loses their VA entitlement, as it will be tied to that original loan.
Buyers must meet all VA standards for creditworthiness and income, and the assumption must be approved by both the VA and the lender.
All mortgage obligations are assumed by the buyer, up to and including the obligation to repay the VA should the buyer default on the loan.
A “VA funding fee” equal to 0.5% of the current loan balance (only the principal amount) will be charged.
Want to know more about VA mortgages and whether you or a family member qualifies? Discover the special rates and benefits of VA home loans.
All mortgage payments must be current at the time of closing. You should plan to provide funds necessary to clear any outstanding payments before you can assume the loan. Either the buyer or seller can bring the loan to good standing.
Special Circumstances for Assuming a Mortgage
There are several special circumstances in which a buyer or inheritor must assume a mortgage in order to take possession of a home.
May I Assume the Mortgage of an Inherited Home?
Yes. In the unfortunate circumstance of a loved one passing, assuming the mortgage of the home that’s been willed to you would be useful if you wish to keep it in the family or live in it.
Federal law requires lenders to allow heirs to assume the mortgage of an inherited home, regardless of any due-on-sale clause included on the loan. It’s best to seek the advice of an estate attorney to ensure all bases are covered under these circumstances. As you figure out your options, be sure to continue making the regular monthly payments on the mortgage to prevent foreclosure of the property.
Assuming the Mortgage in Case of a Divorce
In the event of a divorce, one party or the other may have been awarded the family home.
If you’re the one keeping the home with a mortgage, you’ll need to qualify with the lender to assume the mortgage under your individual income and credit score, or by showing six months of timely payments you’ve made on your own without the help of your spouse.
Once the awarded party assumes the mortgage, the person who will no longer reside in the home should be released from all liability with the proper signed paperwork, as required by the lender.
May I Assume the Mortgage of a Home in Foreclosure?
Yes. Facing foreclosure is difficult, and a homeowner may want to do anything to prevent it. Allowing another party to assume the mortgage may be a good option.
In this type of purchase scenario, the buyer will need to pay off the entire past due amount before the assumption can occur. Buyers may accomplish this with cash or through a separate loan.
If it’s a Fannie Mae loan in question, Fannie Mae will review the prospective borrower’s financial packet to determine if they can afford the payments on the mortgage. Each investor or insurer will have specific requirements around what is required to complete the assumption.
If you’re set on the property as your ideal home, the default amount isn’t unreasonable, and the interest rate you’re assuming is favorable, then it can be worth the extra cost and effort to secure the loan.
From Applying to Signing on the Dotted Line: Important Facts
If you apply to assume a mortgage, expect to provide all the standard financial information normally required from a lender for a home loan application. This can include pay stubs, bank statements, W2s, and any other means to prove your ability to take over the mortgage.
While many may appreciate that an appraisal isn’t typically required, it might be beneficial to request one. That way you can ensure that the asking price for the home is fair in the current market.
Make sure a title check is performed as well to clear up any possibility of outstanding liens or encumbrances on the property before signing on the dotted line.
While closing costs can be lower with an assumed mortgage, an assumption fee may be charged.
FHA assumption closing costs are typically between 2 and 6 percent of the sale price of the home.
The VA charges a funding fee of 0.5% of the principal loan balance.
If you’re assuming the loan of an inherited property, it may be within your rights to avoid an assumption fee. Be sure to consult with an estate attorney if questions arise.
If you end up borrowing from more than one lender to complete the mortgage assumption, be sure that each lender is informed of all loan activity for the home. Each lender may require slightly different information, so prepare ahead of time for varying requests during the financial evaluation process.
Key Takeaways For Assumable Mortgages
Under the right circumstances, an assumable mortgage can mean thousands in savings for a qualified buyer.
A seller can leverage those savings to attract buyers and increase the asking price for the home.
The lender is the party with the final say over whether a buyer can assume a seller’s current mortgage.
The amount of equity in the home owned by the seller can be a key factor in whether assuming a loan is the right route for a buyer to take.
VA-eligible home sellers should take extra precaution when considering an assumption to protect their VA entitlement.
Is a Mortgage Assumption the Right Move?
The advantages for both sellers and buyers in this type of transaction is clear, as long as the interest rate on the mortgage is lower than what is available on the current market, the equity owned by the seller isn’t too great, and the lender approves of the assumption along with a release of liability to the original borrower on the loan.
If you’re selling your home that you have an FHA or VA mortgage for and the interest rate is lower than what the current market offers, you may want to connect your prospective buyers with your lender to see if an assumption is possible.
Questions about your existing mortgage or looking to buy a home soon? We’re here for you. Connect with a Pennymac Loan Expert to explore your home loan options or get started on a BuyerReady Certification today.
My wife and I moved out of our former primary residence a year ago, and we have been renting it out for $4,000 a month. Our current tenant is moving out next month and we will need to find a new one.
The house is probably worth about $750,000 and we have a $450,000 mortgage on it, which we managed to refinance when mortgages were rock bottom at 2.5%.
Should we plan to sell the house in two years in order to get the capital gains tax exemption, and then use the proceeds to buy a new investment property?
Or would we be better off keeping the property, continue renting it and abandon the tax exemption in order to hold on to our low mortgage?
Looking for Opportunities
‘The Big Move’ is a MarketWatch column looking at the ins and outs of real estate, from navigating the search for a new home to applying for a mortgage.
Do you have a question about buying or selling a home? Do you want to know where your next move should be? Email Aarthi Swaminathan at [email protected].
Dear Looking,
You have a 30-year mortgage at a rock-bottom rate of 2.5% that you will possibly never see again in your lifetime. Why are you in a rush to sell?
If you are trying to get ahead without paying taxes, you have time, but how much time is the question.
The biggest challenge with waiting to sell is that your home could appreciate significantly, and you may not qualify for the capital gains tax exemption of $500,000 when filing jointly with your spouse.
You don’t say how much you bought it for, but even if you had bought it for $500,000 and the home is $750,000, you’ve still got time before hitting that cap of $500,000. As long as you don’t exceed that, and the government does not change that number, your plan to wait and sell makes sense.
As you’re looking to buy a new investment property, consider doing a 1031 exchange. With a 1031 exchange, you can sell whenever you want, and defer paying taxes on the profit. The “catch” is you need to move that money into another investment property. Plus, you may have to take on a new mortgage.
Factor in the new rate and the potential rental income, and see if the math makes sense. If that other investment property you’re looking at doesn’t net you the same or similar profit as your current rental, then don’t sell.
The bottom line: Unless there’s a strong reason for you to sell independent of taxes — perhaps you need the extra money, or you are sick of dealing with tenants, for instance — it seems like the best move would be to hold on to the home, or try to swap it out for another.
And don’t just take it from me. “There is no hurry to sell,” Ed Fernandez, president and CEO of 1031 Crowdfunding, a company specializing in 1031 exchanges, also advises.
“You can always capture the gains any time after two years, but in this scenario, it looks like the cash flow you are receiving from the current mortgage might be better than any opportunity you would have to go out and buy in the current market environment,” he added.
That’s two opinions in favor of retaining your rental. The third opinion? That’s up to you.
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