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Apache is functioning normally

This is a guest post from Joanna Lahey, an associate professor of economics at the George H.W. Bush School of Government and Public Service at Texas A&M University and the National Bureau of Economic Research (NBER).

Ellen’s note: Joanna has written four articles about health insurance. This is the first, and every Saturday for the next month, we’ll be publishing one. Given the readers’ concern over the cost of health insurance as well as the ability to get insurance, we think her articles will be a great addition to GRS.

We save for retirement in order to smooth our consumption over time. Money saved now when we have income allows us to eat more than cat food when we’re retired and not bringing in as much.

Mikey eating cat food

Insurance works in much the same way, except instead of smoothing our consumption over time, we’re smoothing it over conditions of the world. In the good state of the world, the one in which we haven’t been hit by a bus, we spend money on insurance. In the bad state of the world, the one in which the bus hits us, the insurance company pays out money to help compensate us for our medical care.

People value this insurance because they are risk averse. For most people, losing money hurts us more than gaining the equivalent amount of money makes us happy. We’re willing to pay a little extra during good times to offset the bad times.

Of course, in reality it’s a little bit more complicated than that. Insurance companies have an incentive to keep you from getting into that bad state of the world, so they might pay for annual check-ups and other sorts of preventive care. Additionally, some people like the idea of using health insurance as a prepayment for expected medical expenses. However, preventive care and prepayment are not technically insurance even if they are bundled in with many policies. The point of insurance is to make the bad times less bad by paying for insurance during the good times and accepting a payout during the bad times.

In an ideal world, this insurance system would just work and the free market could handle everything. People would pay their expected cost of insurance into the insurance system and the insurance would pay out for the people who were unlucky enough to get hit by buses or have other health problems.

Unfortunately, there’s a problem. People who know that they are likely to use medical care value insurance more than people who believe they will never get sick. The problem arises when people know their expected medical costs better than insurance companies do. This situation is called “asymmetric information” — one party (you) knows more than the other party (the insurance company) does.

Death Spiral in the Insurance Market

In this world of asymmetric information, there is theoretically no way for an insurance company to make a profit, or to even exist in the private market. If the insurance company sells insurance at the average cost of medical care — what it expects to pay out on average — then people who know deep down that they’re healthy are going to prefer not to buy the insurance. People who know they are likely to get sick are more than willing to pay the average cost of medical care and sign up in droves. When that happens, the average cost of medical care that the insurance company sees goes up, so they have to charge higher rates for coverage. That means that the folks who expect to have ingrown toenails but no other health problems will drop coverage while the people who expect to get diabetes will stay on. That drives up the average cost of health insurance further, which means that the next healthiest group of people will stop buying coverage and only the most expensive stay on. Eventually only the most expensive person will be willing to buy insurance (and he or she probably won’t be able to afford it). The market fails, and insurance cannot be offered. The private insurance market is broken.

Asymmetric information and this “lemons problem” (the term coined in an article by George Akerlof) are why it is so very difficult to get coverage on the private market and why the coverage is so expensive. It’s also why private coverage deliberately doesn’t cover conditions like pregnancy if it can legally choose not to.

Side note: You may have noticed that even though the private health insurance market is broken, it still exists. That’s because of that risk aversion we talked about in the previous section — most people value insurance more than its expected cost. If they value it enough, they’re willing to pay more and are able to get over the death spiral. Incidentally, David Cutler, one of the main architects of the Affordable Care Act, argues that the individual mandate is not needed — we just need to get the price low enough and risk aversion will get people to buy. Jon Gruber, another of the architects, disagrees — he doesn’t think it is likely that risk aversion will overcome the adverse selection problem.

Why is Health Insurance in the U.S. Bundled With Employment?

The solution to the problem? Group markets for insurance. In a group market, people are in a group for some reason that has nothing to do with health insurance. Working for the same employer functions especially well because adults who work are healthier on average than adults who don’t work. Everyone in the group is charged the same amount for insurance, and the average cost is low enough that the downward death spiral doesn’t occur. The bigger the group, the more risk and costs are spread out and the happier the insurance company is. Large companies get cheaper insurance rates than smaller companies because it’s less likely with a large company that the boss is getting insurance because he just found out his wife has cancer (and even if he did, that cost is spread out across more workers).

Doesn’t that argue that we should have just one group for everybody? Well, yes. However, for historical reasons (price controls during WWII, as several folks pointed out in the comments of this Ask the Readers post), we ended up with our groups being attached to employment. That’s fine if you’re employed by a large firm that offers insurance (or married to someone who is), but makes things more difficult if you’re not.

Why don’t we just tear the system down and start from scratch? Well, it is difficult to destroy a private industry that is around 7 percent of our economy, especially when said industry has powerful lobbyists. It may be more efficient to have government-provided health insurance, but the costs of getting to that point would be large.

Given our current political and institutional situation, we can still get to universal health care even if single-payer insurance is unlikely. In the U.S. that means something like the Affordable Care Act, with its universal mandate, subsidies, and regulations prohibiting preexisting-condition exclusions or charging prices based on anything other than age and tobacco status. I will talk more about the basics of the Affordable Care Act in a future post.

How Much Insurance Should be Provided?

In the ideal world, insurance companies would provide full insurance. They would pay 100 percent of your medical care and maybe something to compensate you for pain and suffering. You’d have to pay a larger premium to get the insurance, but it would be worth it because if you got hit by a bus you wouldn’t be out of pocket for anything. Unfortunately, this is not an ideal world and people are flawed.

  • If you knew you were going to get compensated, you might be less careful about looking both ways before crossing the street.
  • If going to the doctor is completely free, you might go in for a sniffle right away just to be on the safe side rather than waiting a few days.
  • If someone else is paying, you might move to more expensive infertility treatments faster than if you have to pay the bill yourself.
  • Your doctor might decide to do extra tests that only have a small chance of finding anything, because why not?

We call these changes in behavior caused by the program availability “moral hazard.” Moral hazard occurs when people do bad things they wouldn’t have done if they were bearing the full cost of their actions.

Political economy side note: The trade-offs caused by moral hazard are one of the main points of disagreement between political parties. Public programs help deserving people who need help, but they can also cause people to do bad things in order to qualify for the public programs (through moral hazard). Programs that help children tend to be popular with politicians on both sides because children don’t have moral hazard with respect to government programs — they’re not the decision-makers.

In order to keep moral hazard down, it is optimal to provide less than full insurance. So insurance companies don’t pay the full amount of every bill. That’s why we have deductibles and co-payments and coinsurance.

Terms You Need to Know

Premium: The (usually monthly) amount that you pay to the insurance company to buy insurance. (Mine is $693/month for my dependents and me.)

Deductible: Some amount of money that you have to pay before the insurance starts paying anything. (Mine is $750.)

Co-payment: A flat dollar amount that you pay when you show up at the doctor (or the hospital) no matter how much your visit actually costs. (Mine is $35 for in-network and $45 for out-of-network.)

Coinsurance: After you reach your deductible, you may still be responsible for some of the costs. Coinsurance is a percent of the costs that you pay. (Mine is 30 Percent.)

Sometimes economists will group all three of these together: deductible, co-payment, and coinsurance under the umbrella term of “co-payment.” We do this because they’re all ways of cost-sharing and thus reducing moral hazard. Living in Texas, I get all three types. The bill for my daughter’s birth was $750 for the deductible, $35 co-payment for the doctor, and 30 percent coinsurance of $2,345 + $191 + $218 is $826 for my share of the rest (assuming that all of the bills have finally come in). So a total bill of $1,611.

That’s a lot of information about the basics of health insurance. Next time I will talk about the pros and cons of different kinds of insurance you can get in the U.S. (PPO, HMO, HDHP, ACO).

Source: getrichslowly.org

Apache is functioning normally

This post is by April Dykman. Yes, you read that right. April was recently wooed back to Get Rich Slowly and will be writing here a couple of times a month. She plans to focus on interviewing experts on money-related topics, which also helps her justify that journalism degree…

Photo by Rich Anderson, courtesy Flickr Creative Commons

Bill had to sell his house quickly.

He was being transferred out of state, and the company wasn’t footing the bill. Instead, they offered him a higher salary. Now he had to sell quickly or risk paying two mortgages.

But Bill wasn’t sweating it. After all, his house was in a great neighborhood in a desirable part of town. He hired a real estate agent, confident that once the “for sale” sign went up, the buyers would come knocking. He’d get a quick sale at asking price, no problem.

Only a month went by, and there were zero offers. Bill had to move soon and was getting nervous about those double mortgage payments, but no one was interested. Then, to really rub salt in the wound, buyers were leavings tons of negative comments!

So what was the problem?

You aren’t making your house ready for buyers

Bill refused to make his house buyer-friendly.

His real estate agent, Lynda Conway, had warned that unless he got the house show-ready, it would sit on the market and sell for far less than asking price. Lynda, who heads The Turner Team in Austin, Texas, and teaches for the Austin Board of Realtors, says Bill’s mistake is a common one.

“Many sellers think they can just put a sign up and that’s enough,” she says. “But buyers don’t fall for that. They want to back up their moving truck, unload their stuff, and put their toothbrush in a cup by the sink.”

And when sellers refuse to believe they need to get their house ready to go on the market, they can suffer financial consequences. In Bill’s case, his refusal to invest in sprucing up his home was about to cost him a double mortgage payment, not to mention the stress of trying to sell his house from out-of-state.

It can also result in a lower final selling price. Lynda recalls one seller who refused to make basic repairs and cosmetic improvements. “After a long time on the market, we finally got an offer,” she says. “But the owners felt insulted because it was $20,000 below list price. They wound up taking the offer because it was the only one.”

So if this mistake can cost you time and money, not to mention cause some serious stress, why do sellers refuse to make their houses more attractive to buyers?

The three reasons you aren’t getting your house ready for buyers

Lynda says there are three main reasons that sellers don’t get their houses in tip-top shape.

First, they don’t believe it makes a difference. Like Bill, they think their house will sell itself, so the extra investment seems like a waste of money. “Bill was really cautious about spending any money because he was being transferred on his own nickel,” says Lynda. “He refused to believe that a coat of paint would make a difference.”

Second, they don’t think there’s a problem. Lynda says it’s often difficult to convince smokers and pet owners that their homes don’t smell like roses. Bill, for example, was both a smoker and a pet owner. “Some sellers don’t realize it smells because they’re so used to it, or else they don’t think it’s a big deal,” says Lynda. “But it’s a huge deal to buyers.”

Third, they think they don’t have the money. Remember the clients that got $20,000 less than list price? Lynda says that it wasn’t until they were all at the closing table that they finally admitted to her that they didn’t have the money to make her suggested improvements. “Some sellers don’t want to admit that they don’t have money on hand, but I can’t help them if they aren’t willing to talk about it.”

So how can you avoid these problems and sell your house quickly (and for list price)?

Make your house show-ready

You’ve got to invest in wowing potential buyers.

When Lynda showed Bill the negative comments people were leaving about his home, he finally relented, telling Lynda, “Okay, tell me what to do.” They took the house off the market while he worked his way through the to-do list. After $2,500 in updates and repairs, they put the house back on the market at the original price. In three days they received three offers.

“Buyers are picky,” says Lynda. “If you want to get top dollar for your home, you have to prepare for that.”

And the good news is that if you have more time than money, Lynda says there’s a lot you can do yourself to improve your home’s appeal.

So how can you make your house best in show?

Five ways to make your house show-ready (and net more money)

Lynda says here are five things you can do to make buyers fall in love with your home.

  1. Start packing now. You’re about to move, right? So get some boxes, packing tape, and a Sharpie and put your stuff in storage. “Decluttering your home makes it look bigger and cleaner,” says Lynda. “You can make your house more attractive to buyers and get a head start on moving.”
  2. Give it some elbow grease. “Clean your house like you’ve never cleaned it before,” says Lynda. “Windows should sparkle. Make sure the house smells nice and fresh, not like last night’s fish dinner or grandpa’s cigars.” Lynda says sellers can deep clean themselves, or if they have more money than time, they can hire a professional.
  3. Do a daily sweep. Steaming the carpets and dusting the ceiling fans is important, but all is lost if your bathroom counter is cluttered with hair products or there are dishes in the sink. “Do a daily wipe-down on all surfaces, especially in the bathroom and kitchen,” says Lynda. “Keep counters completely clear to make them look as big as possible, especially important in a small space.” Lynda had one client who put her toiletries in her travel bag while her home was on the market. “She’d get ready in the morning like she was on a trip, then put the travel bag away and out of sight.”
  4. Make a good first impression. “When a buyer pulls up to your house, you have five seconds for that house to sell itself from the curb,” says Lynda. “And when the front yard looks inviting, that creates positive expectations about what you’ll see inside.” Take care of the obvious, like lawn care and putting your yard gnome in storage. Then give the front door some TLC. “Your front door should be warm and fresh, she says. “You can give it a coat of paint or replace it entirely.” Lynda also recommends adding some color. “Buy cheap, colorful pots, potting soil, and some flowers,” she says. “I like the combination of rosemary and flowers because it smells nice and looks attractive.” The bonus of potted plants? You can take them to your new home!
  5. Deal with the bigger issues. Here’s where it can get expensive, depending on the condition of your home. But if your house is in serious need of a coat of paint and a new roof, you have to either deal with those issues or adjust the price accordingly and wait for a buyer willing to take care of it themselves.

Finally, consider getting a pre-inspection. Lynda says almost no one does this because people think, “why open a can of worms?” But the can will be opened eventually when the buyers have your house inspected. And then those problems might cost you a willing and able buyer.

“When a buyer falls in love with your home, then finds out there’s a major problem you didn’t disclose, they fall out of love very quickly,” she says.

They’re angry and distrustful, even if you honestly weren’t aware of the problem. “Buyers feel like you should have known because it’s your house,” she says. “And sometimes they’ll terminate and refuse to even negotiate the repairs.” Lynda says when buyers are willing to negotiate, they may want the price lowered by double, or even triple, the cost of repairs. Ouch!

But she says if you get your home pre-inspected, you won’t be caught off guard. You can attach repair receipts to your seller’s disclosure or have the house re-inspected and attach the report. And most importantly, says Lynda, “you won’t lose a deal or have to come down on your list price.”

What are some ideas you’ve used to make your home more appealing to buyers? Or from a buyer’s perspective, what are the major turn-ons and turn-offs when you walk into a house?

Source: getrichslowly.org

Apache is functioning normally

This post is from Ollie Geiger, a personal finance writer who contributes to MoneyRates.com.

As a former auto mechanic and service manager, my dad’s car expertise has saved our family from countless binds.

Over the years, he’s done everything from replacing my wife’s broken timing belt in the parking lot of her apartment complex to rebuilding our truck’s toasted alternator at a motel high in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. A master of seeing mechanical possibilities, he replaced the alternator’s seized bearing with a wheel bearing from a motorcycle we happened to be carrying.

Growing up in his shadow, I acquired three insights that guide my thinking on mechanical things today:

  1. Understanding how machines work is a virtue.
  2. Even simple repairs come with high costs at repair shops.
  3. Not every shop is dishonest, but some definitely are.

As a result, I try to avoid taking my truck – a 1998 Toyota Tacoma with 192,000 miles – to the garage. When the ol’ Taco fails in a way that appears simple to fix, I’ll usually try to repair it myself. While I lack the proficiency of my dad, I like mechanical things and the satisfaction that comes from making them work again.

My rule of thumb is that I will only tackle a repair job if I understand at the onset how all of the parts work and fit together. For example, I understand how a valve cover gasket works, so when one starts to seep, I can change it. But I’m less sure how all the parts work in my transmission. If it fails, I’m probably going to seek help.

OK Computer

Unfortunately, newer cars are generally harder for home mechanics to work on. Computer technology has made modern cars far more complex than the drag-race Oldsmobiles my dad built as a teenager. While a mechanically inclined person can easily examine and understand a carburetor, an electronic fuel injection system hides its secrets in silicon chips. Unraveling a new car’s issues is often a matter of acquiring specialized diagnostic equipment or manufacturer training – or both.

This puts mechanically minded consumers in a lamentable position today. When something fails on a modern vehicle, taking it to a shop is the only sensible approach if you lack the tools and knowledge to address the problem. For those who don’t want to pay someone else to fix their machine, family car out of the shop.

Your Money or Your Time

When done properly, performing your own repairs can save you a lot of money. I can’t estimate how much we would have spent over the years on auto fixes if my dad hadn’t performed them, but I’m sure the figure is staggering. This is another reason I find taking my car to the shop so unpleasant today: I’m just not used to paying for that sort of thing.

Still, working on your own vehicle has its own price. You may spend considerable time diagnosing and fixing any car issues you tackle, and mistakes can cost you too – possibly at the repair shop you avoided in the first place. Frustration is another likely expense. While I appreciate the feeling of completing a task on my Tacoma, that feeling is often preceded by frequent curses on my decision to ever lift the hood.

Do you ever perform your car’s repairs or maintenance to save money? If not, would you ever consider it? If so, how much have you saved? How do you determine whether to take on a job yourself or bring it to a professional?

Source: getrichslowly.org

Apache is functioning normally

Note: We’re not encouraging people to go out and sign up for credit cards, especially if you have debt or plan to carry a balance on a card. (The interest you pay will wipe out any rewards benefits.) But if you can control your spending and pay your bill on time and in full every month, Holly’s money hack may work for you. Also keep in mind that your credit score takes a hit each time you open a card, and whatever balance you have on your credit card as of the statement closing date will be reported to the credit bureaus. If you pay the balance in full before the statement closing date, your balance will be reported as $0.

Almost two years ago, we began our journey out of debt. Like the average American family, we had car loans, student loans, and consumer debt. At one point, we were making minimum payments on several credit cards and a loan I took out to buy a Kirby vacuum. I’m serious.

However, getting pregnant with our second child made us realize that we needed to get our finances together quickly. Once we committed to new financial goals, we cut out nearly everything from our life that was “enjoyable.” We said goodbye to cable TV and dinners at restaurants. We quit shopping for fun and only went to the store to get groceries and absolute necessities. Our new budget was cut down to the bare bones…so much so that I hesitated to buy almost anything.

As the months flew by, we began making huge strides against the debt that we had burdened ourselves with. Once we became debt-free, we realized that we had become addicted to our new, frugal lifestyle. Having no consumer debt had freed up a lot of cash to save and invest, and we quickly got serious about building wealth. However, having a strict budget made it difficult to do anything spontaneous like see a movie or have a date night. I began to look for a way to supplement our income with some “fun money” without ruining our short- and long-term goals. It was around that time that I got my first credit card sign-up bonus offer in the mail.

Enter credit card rewards

I couldn’t believe my eyes when I read a direct mailer from a major issuer promoting their new credit card. “Spend $500 in 3 months and earn a $100 statement credit.” Could it really be that easy? Why would they give away $100 in free money? As I read through the disclosures carefully, I determined that there was no “catch.” Truthfully, the issuer was offering a $100 bonus just to get new customers to try their card. As long as I paid off the card in full and accrued no interest, this $100 would truly be free money. Since our grocery spending approaches $500 on a normal month, I knew that we could reach the spending requirement easily and I decided to give it a try. Within the first month, we put our regularly planned spending on the card. The bonus points, equal to a $100 statement credit, were quickly credited to my account. I was hooked.

Soon after that, my husband applied for the same card and earned the $100 bonus just for doing our regular shopping. We then moved on to new cards in order to earn a new sign-up bonus. Another card from that issuer, which had better perks, required that we spend $3,000 in three months in order to earn a $400 statement credit. Since we had some upcoming expenses that could be put on credit, we each signed up. We put two family vacations and our regular monthly spending for groceries and gas on each card and easily earned $800 in statement credits. Since we were going to spend the money anyway, these bonuses were truly “free.” We used the $1,000 that we had earned up to this point on some fun activities with our children. I was also able to surprise my husband with last-minute tickets to see his favorite musical, “Les Miserables,” and a new grill for Father’s Day.

Is this wrong?

Obviously there are some people who would say that we are gaming the system. Their argument may be that the credit card bonuses are meant to secure long-term customers, not to provide some extra cash to take my family to Applebee’s. Some may feel that we are just using the banks for our own gain.

I don’t see it that way at all. Actually, to a certain extent, some of their strategies have worked. For instance, I plan on keeping the perkier card because it has no foreign transaction fees. I have also found that this particular card comes with great customer service. Calling the 1-800 number on the card quickly connects me with a real, live person at any hour of the day or night. I would have never tried the card if not for the sign-up bonus. So, in that respect, I feel that the issuer did earn a long-term customer.

I also definitely do not feel bad that I never pay interest. For every person like me who pays their balance in full every month, there are far too many people making the minimum payment. Additionally, banks earn money from retailers just because they choose to take credit cards as payment. Simply put, when I spend $100 at the grocery store, they have to pay the credit card company a certain percentage of my order.

Moving forward

In the past two months, we have moved our spending from those cards to another issuer’s premium card. Their new offer of “Spend $2,000 in 3 months and earn $250 in gift cards” was just too good to pass up…especially with Christmas just around the corner. Since we will put our gas, groceries, and our entire Christmas shopping budget on the card, we will easily reach the spending requirement and, thus, reap the rewards.

Chasing reward deals certainly isn’t for everyone. However, it has definitely made a difference in our bottom line. It has provided us with some extra money that doesn’t have to be accounted for. I can spend our rewards on gifts or something fun and not feel like I have sacrificed what is important to us. And now that we are completely out of consumer debt, I am actually finding that using credit cards helps us stay on budget. Both of the issuers have websites that make it quick and easy to track what I have spent and where.

Is this strategy right for you?

Before entertaining any credit card sign-up bonuses, I would ask myself a few questions. Are you in debt? If you are in credit card debt, then it is a bad idea to pursue credit card rewards. In fact, you might consider cutting up your cards or putting them somewhere not easily accessible. Work on getting out of debt and staying out of debt instead.

Do you have trouble tracking your spending? If so, then pursuing rewards offers may not be for you. While I tend to use one card at a time, some people try to juggle multiple offers at once and end up getting confused. If you are worried about losing track of your spending, then please skip using credit cards altogether.

Are you worried about your credit score? Remember that applying for new credit too frequently can reduce your score and make it harder for you to get the best rate for a loan. Please take into consideration how applying for credit will affect your credit score and do what is in your best interest.

Do you try to earn credit card rewards? If so, what is your favorite credit card rewards program?

Source: getrichslowly.org

Apache is functioning normally

I’ve been traveling for more than a month now. While much of this travel has been for pleasure — I spent three weeks in Turkey with my cousin — there’s been plenty of work involved too. While I’ve been traveling, I’ve also been writing — and networking with other bloggers. Over the past month, I’ve attended two conferences, and spent three days meeting with folks in New York.

Note: Some of you have been craving more of my voice around Get Rich Slowly. That’s not going to happen. But if you’re really wanting to read what I write, check out More Than Money, where I’m writing about travel, blogging, and anything else that tickles my pickle.

FinCon 2012
In early September at FinCon 2012 (the financial blogger conference), I spoke about the future of financial blogging. While there, I reconnected with many of my colleagues, including Jim from Bargaineering, Flexo from Consumerism Commentary, Adam from Man vs. Debt, Ramit from I Will Teach You to Be Rich, Neal Frankle (the Wealth Pilgrim), and Kylie Ofiu (an Australian personal finance blogger).

At FinCon, I also met two new people who really impressed me.

First up was Pete, whom many of you know as Mr. Money Mustache. He has a hot early retirement blog, and for good reason. He offers solid advice in a strong personal voice. I loved his presentation at FinCon; his blogging philosophy and mine are closely aligned.

Second was Paula Pant, who writes at Afford Anything. Paula is remarkable for two reasons. First, she’s one of only a few female bloggers in a niche dominated by men. Second, Paula focuses almost exclusively on making money instead of saving it. Her blog is about building wealth, with a particular focus on rental properties. She’s sharp, and she now has me as a subscriber.

New York
After FinCon, I flew to Turkey to spend three weeks touring the country with my cousin. On my way home, I stopped in New York for business. I met with several colleagues, a few GRS readers, and my editor at Moneyland.

Also in New York, I practiced what I preach regarding conscious spending. You see, I’m a huge fan of musical theater. But good tickets to good shows on Broadway can be expensive. Very expensive. In order to be able to indulge my passion, I cut back in other areas.

For instance, I rented a cheap ($70/night) apartment on Airbnb and then walked everywhere in Manhattan. This saved me about $200 a day, money that I put into theater tickets. On Sunday, I joined Flexo (from Consumerism Commentary) and Ramit (from I Will Teach You to Be Rich) for a performance of The Book of Mormon, which was hilarious. I also saw Chicago (completely disappointing) and the achingly beautiful Once.

Sure, I had to stay in a tiny, tiny room (with barely room for a bed), but who cares? All I did was sleep there. With the money I saved, I had a great time in one of my favorite cities.

Note: On my last night, I had a beer with my hostess, a precocious young (26?) woman who’s found a clever way to reduce her cost of living. Rose’s apartment has three rooms. She lives in one and rents the other two out on Airbnb. “Are you able to keep the rooms rented?” I asked. She smiled and said, “My rent here is $3,600/month. Airbnb pays the rent for me.” Rock on!

Savvy Blogging Summit 2012
FinCon was fun, but I have to admit: My favorite blogging conference is always the Savvy Blogging Summit. Mostly, it’s attended by a group of remarkable women: stay-at-home moms who, in their spare time, blog about coupons, shopping, and other domestic concerns. They call themselves “dealbloggers”.

This topic may sound mundane, but more than any group I know, these savvy bloggers live the ideals I espouse everyday at Get Rich Slowly. Meeting these women is like seeing the Get Rich Slowly philosophy in action.

  • They actively work to keep their household expenses low.
  • They’ve found creative ways to boost their income. Most make money — sometimes a lot of money — from blogging. But I also talked to folks who earn income as spokeswomen, radio broadcasters, brand representatives, graphic designers, mobile app creators, and more.

And they do this all while raising families. In some cases, large families. These are stay-at-home moms who do a whole lot more. They aren’t just savvy bloggers; they’re also savvy entrepreneurs. (They’re also a hell of a lot of fun. They taught me to dance Gangnam Style this year!)

Early in the conference, I met John Saddington, an Atlanta-based blogger and entrepreneur. I’d never heard of him before Savvy Blogging Summit, but he and I had a chance to chat about business and blogging. I was intrigued by his vision, so I recruited him to help me present the “Blogging Exit Strategies” panel, which worked out well. I think the attendees got some great advice about building and selling a business.

Some of the other people I spent time with during this conference included:

  • Amy Gross from Vinesleuth, who has a free ebook called Dinner and Wine for $20 or Less.
  • Amber Bustanoby from Coupon Connections. Amber’s not just a coupon blogger; she can also bust a move on the dance floor.
  • Jennie Sanford from Bargain Blessings. I’d seen Jennie at three previous conferences but never talked with her before now, which is a shame. I want to chat with her more in the future.
  • Kimberlee, The Peaceful Mom, who taught me about Pinterest. (Sometimes I’m slow on the uptake.)
  • And on the plane from Atlanta to San Francisco, I spent five hours talking with Melissa Earl from Living a Frugal Life.

As always, I learned a lot at Savvy Blogging Summit, and did my best to impart some of my knowledge to others. I’ve already committed to speaking at SBS IV, which will be held next June in Cincinnati. I wouldn’t miss it.

Note: While in Atlanta, I reconnected with Paula from Afford Anything. I’d met her at FinCon at the start of the trip, and she was generous enough to offer me a ride. After picking me up from the airport, she showed me around Piedmont Park and told me all about her adventures in real estate. As I say, she’s sharp. If you’re interested in rental properties, you should read her blog.

Now I’m in San Francisco. Today, I’ll meet with the owners of GRS, have lunch at Twitter HQ, and stop by to meet the folks at Lending Club. Tomorrow, I get to meet my girlfriend’s family and friends.

I’m nearing the end of this marathon month-long trip, and thank goodness. I’m too old for all this travel!

Source: getrichslowly.org

Apache is functioning normally

Fixer-upper (noun). A home you purchase at a reasonable price, but one that requires an unreasonable amount of money in repairs and renovations.

Okay, so I made up that definition, and it’s not always true. Buying fixer-uppers can get you more house than you would normally be able to afford at a reasonable price. They can be pleasantly inexpensive. But they can also be money pits, masquerading behind a façade of charming woodwork and arched doorways.

As tempting as the purchase price is for houses that need a little TLC, you must assess whether a fixer-upper is right for you. To do that, you need an appraisal. And I’m not just talking about the house.

An Honest Appraisal of Yourself

I believe even a carefully selected fixer-upper is really only a bargain if you can do the labor yourself. Even though we come from a long line of blue-collar workers, we have a lot to learn. Still, we have people to ask. Between our two families, we have two HVAC technicians, a plumber, an electrician, two ex-carpenters, a concrete worker, and two RNs (just in case the renovations don’t go smoothly).

It’s more than knowing how to do repairs, though. Even if you can do most of the labor yourself, do you want to? For instance, my husband loves doing electrical work, but doesn’t enjoy carpentry. That means our windows remained untrimmed for long time, but I’m not shocked that we have a great fuse box.

Then there’s living in the middle of endless projects. Since we renovate after our day jobs, sometimes we live in the middle of projects for a long time. When we refinished our wood floors on the main level, I was this close to going crazy. There was dust everywhere, for too long.

And are you equipped with the necessary tools? Even though we have the main tools like hammers and drills, we also share the really expensive or less commonly used tools between family members. Tools are expensive. You may want to borrow or rent tools that you won’t use as often.

The Other Honest Appraisal

As much as possible, you need to know everything about the house. A home appraisal and a thorough home inspection should tell you what you need to know. What’s it worth? If it’s an old house (and most fixer uppers are), how is the foundation? How old is the plumbing and wiring? Is there evidence of mold or water damage? Does it need a new roof?

Once you know what it needs, you need to ask whether you can afford to fix these things. Unless the house is dirt cheap, or you have access to inexpensive materials, you may need to find another house. Issues like mold or a foundation in disrepair are expensive to fix, so you may or may not get your money back in home equity.

A Tale of Two Houses

We’ve owned two homes. And while both needed a lot of work, they were completely different.

So what was the difference? The first house sat on the edge of a town with notoriously low prices for real estate. It was a mediocre house in a mediocre neighborhood. Because of that, we needed to buy the house at a price lower than the surrounding houses. Which brings me to rule #1…

Rule #1: Buy a fixer-upper at a cost (way) below the rest of the houses in a good neighborhood. By following this rule, your improvements will bring your house up to (or slightly exceed) the value of the surrounding properties. You won’t recoup your costs if your renovations result in “too much house” for the neighborhood.

Rule #2. Find a fixer-upper with quality construction. That first house was cheap, costing less than our combined annual income at the time. But everything about it was cheap, including the materials used in its construction. And that led to a rodent infestation, among other things. (I think our record was catching 14 mice in a 24-hour period.)

On the other hand, our second house has “good bones.” Maybe it needs lots of work, but at least the extra work will be built on a good foundation. Ah, but “lots of work” means mostly major, expensive projects.

Rule #3. Pick a fixer-upper with cosmetic upgrades instead of major, expensive projects. Well, of course! We didn’t put lots of money into our first house. Instead of fixing the foundation or updating the kitchen, we did inexpensive things like painting, pulling out old, overgrown bushes, and replacing the carpet.

And the new house? In the five years since we moved in, here are the projects we’ve completed: refinished all the wood floors (all 1,800 square feet of them); replaced the roof and some windows; rewired the house; renovated the bathroom; fixed the barn roof; replaced the leaking toilets and one of the rotten bathroom floors.

That doesn’t even include the projects we had to hire out like replacing part of the barn foundation or putting in a new septic system.

It also doesn’t include the projects yet to come. Despite the copious amounts of cash we’ve poured into this place, it still looks like a fixer-upper on the outside. We’re used to the squirrel-gnawed siding and the peeling windows, but we recently got a glimpse of how it looks to others.

This summer, we hosted a shrimp boil on the front lawn with lots of people, including a couple dozen kids. As I walked around the tables handing out cocktail sauce, one 6-year-old said, “Hey, who lives here?”

“I do,” I replied.

“Well, you need to paint this house!”

No, buddy, what we really need is new siding.

Counting the siding, new windows, and a few other things that we really need to do, I estimate that we have another $25,000 of updates to go, before we start the bathroom and kitchen renovations…and that doesn’t count the $30,000 we’ve already spent. According to the last appraisal, the house is worth less now than when we bought it.

Ouch. Next time I’ll be following my own advice AND applying this formula: Price of house plus cost of repairs equals the average home price in the neighborhood.

So before you fall in love with a fixer-upper, ask yourself if this is a decision you can live with in.

Source: getrichslowly.org

Apache is functioning normally

If your appraisal is so low that you owe more on the house than you could sell it for, there are several options for you to consider.

The 30-year fixed mortgage rate keeps getting lower and lower, making it a great time to refinance your mortgage and cut your monthly payment. But as Pat Esswein, associate editor of Kiplinger’s Personal Finance magazine, reports, homeowners have to clear a few hurdles before they can refinance.

One of those hurdles is the appraisal, which determines the value the bank will assign to your home.

That’s an important number because it determines your refinancing options and affects your monthly payment and interest rate. For example, if your home value drops and your loan-to-value is higher than your lender allows, typically 80 percent, you have to either increase your equity with cash or pay for mortgage insurance.

I recently spoke with Esswein about ways to get the highest possible value before the appraisal, and what to do if your appraisal comes in low.

What to Do Before an Appraisal to Get a Higher Home Value

There are a few things you can do to get highest possible appraisal possible.

First, consider researching the appraisal company. “This may be a little bit of a stretch, but when looking for a lender, ask what appraisal management company they order appraisals from,” says Esswein.

What you want is an experienced appraiser who really knows your local market, and you’re most likely to find that kind of appraiser at “a smaller, local appraisal management company that probably pays more and therefore attracts the best appraisers,” says Esswein. “Some companies go for the cheapest hires who also are willing to travel really far, so that means they’re inexperienced and they don’t know your area very well.”

Second, get your home in shape. “Make your house show well,” says Esswein. “Clean, declutter and fix things that need to be fixed so that when the appraiser comes, they’ll note that your house is in the best condition it can be.”

While you’re at it, create a house file for the appraiser that documents any upgrades or recent repairs, such as the new roof you installed two years ago. “When the appraiser actually comes to your home, have the file ready for them and walk around with them to point out the upgrades,” says Esswein.

Third, research recent comparable home sales. “Even though you may feel that prices are rising in your market, and in many markets they have, the appraiser still has to find comparable recent sales to support the value,” says Esswein. “One recent comp doesn’t make a trend, and appraisers may be adjusting prices more slowly than you wish.”

Instead of hoping the appraiser will pull a complete list of comps, Esswein suggests contacting a real estate agent to ask for a list of recent comparable sales, which you can add to your house file. “An experienced real estate agent will know what’s most comparable to your house,” she says.

What to Do If Your Appraisal is Low

So what happens if your appraisal is lower than expected? Is it possible to get another appraisal from a different company?

Esswein says you could shell out $250-$350 for a second opinion, then appeal to your loan officer with the new appraisal. “But before you do that, you should ask your loan officer if they’ll even consider the second appraisal,” says Esswein.

It’s more likely that the first appraisal will stick, but you still have options for refinancing.

Let’s say your home is appraised for $180,000. You still owe $162,000 on the mortgage, which is 90 percent of the value of the home. What are your options?

When it comes to maximum allowable loan-to-value, 80 percent is usually the magic number, so there are three things you can do if you aren’t at 80 percent.

Option one: Bring more cash to closing. If you can afford to put in an additional $18,000 in cash, you’d reduce the loan balance to 80 percent of the value of your home.

“Keep in mind that even if you anted up that money, you still have to have enough money in your reserves to satisfy any lender requirements for adequate savings, which is usually two months’ worth of mortgage payments, but can be more,” says Esswein.

Option two: Refinance into an FHA loan. An FHA loan is a Federal Housing Administration-backed mortgage loan.

Although an FHA loan requires just 3.5 percent equity, “with recent increases in FHA’s upfront mortgage insurance and monthly premiums, private mortgage insurance (PMI) could be cheaper,” says Esswein. Which brings us to…

Option three: Pay for PMI. PMI protects the lender if you stop making payments. “Because home values have fallen, many homeowners who didn’t need PMI when they bought their home will need it when they refinance,” says Esswein.

If you opt to refinance and need PMI, there are two ways you can pay for it.

One way is to simply pay for PMI yourself, which typically costs 0.5 percent to 1.5 percent of your loan amount per year. “Your lender will add the cost of PMI into your monthly mortgage payment,” says Esswein. “You would continue to have to pay the extra premium each month until you have 20 percent equity, at which point you can contact the lender and ask them to cancel PMI. Otherwise, when loan-to-value reaches 78 percent, they have to drop PMI automatically.”

The other way you can pay for PMI is lender-paid mortgage insurance. With lender-paid mortgage insurance, the cost of PMI is folded into your interest rate. The less equity you have, the higher your rate. “The higher rate applies for as long as you have the loan, so this option makes sense only if you don’t plan to own your home for the long term,” says Esswein. “You’re going to have to pay the higher rate for as long as you have that loan, it’s not going to fall away when you reach 20 percent equity.”

Before you decide to take lender-paid mortgage insurance, Esswein says to calculate your monthly payments and the total interest you’ll pay over the life of the loan, based how long you plan to keep loan.

So if you have to take on PMI, is it worth it to refinance? After all, you’re trying to lower your payments, not add extra fees!

Esswein says that as long as you’re saving money, it’s worth it. “PMI is a tool you can use if you need it, and if you’re still reducing payments and saving on interest, then it makes sense,” says Esswein.

And even if you have enough cash to bring your loan-to-value to 80 percent, you might think twice about spending it. “Before you bring cash to the table, decide what else you might want to spend that cash on,” says Esswein. “Don’t drain your emergency fund to avoid PMI.”

Finally, if your appraisal is so low that you owe more on the house than you could sell it for, you have options, too. Esswein recommends makinghomeaffordable.gov, which highlights home loan programs and refinance options for people who are underwater on their homes.

Source: getrichslowly.org

Apache is functioning normally

Over the weekend, a friend and I were enjoying a couple of beers in my neighborhood. As we sat outside people watching, he drooled over every fancy car that drove by.

“That’s a whatever-whatever,” he would tell me. “It costs $100,000.”

I live in Los Angeles, where these symbols of affluence are common.

“I can’t help it,” I told him. “All I can think of when I see a car that expensive is that the driver made a terrible financial decision.”

“But what if the driver is rich and can afford it?” my friend argued.

We then got into a conversation about fancy cars, happiness and frugality. I argued that, no matter how much money I might make in the near future, I plan on driving my Corolla into the ground.

“You wouldn’t trade it in for a nice, sleek Mercedes?” he asked. I said no, and he looked suspicious. But here’s why I think I’ll drive my car until it wears out.

It’s Got Sentimental Value

The non-money answer is that I love my car because it used to be my brother’s.

Both of us had Corollas. I paid for the down payment on mine and spent five years paying it off completely. Since college, Old Trusty and I had been through a lot together; he had a good 150,000 miles on him. So I wanted to take him with me when I moved to California, but my parents thought he was unfit to make the trip. My car was a 2004, and my brother’s was a 2008 with considerably fewer miles. For some reason, when my brother went off to college, my parents bought him a new truck (how come I never got a new truck, guys?). Mom and Dad insisted I accept his newer, less worn-out Corolla, saying it would give them peace of mind.

Who am I to turn down a better car and worry my parents? I said goodbye to Old Trusty and drove my brother’s car to LA.

Maybe it’s sappy and weird, but this car reminds me of home. My apartment and pretty much everything in it (even Brian) came from LA. My car is one of the few things from home that I still have with me.

Car Payments Scare Me

“You wouldn’t want a car with heated seats and a comfortable interior?” my friend asked.

Of course I would. But as comfortable as heated seats are, they don’t feel nearly as good as not having car payments.

If my car was on its last leg, or if it was severely uncomfortable and I had a two-hour commute, it might be a different story. But for me, upgrading simply for the sake of upgrading isn’t worth the expense.

I’ve always found it odd that many people consider car payments to be a constant. For lots of people, paying off their car loan means trading in their car for a newer one with all new payments. I guess if you can work it into your budget, maybe you can afford it. But I’ve always been a fan of the Dave Ramsey school of thought:

“When it comes to money, normal is broke. You want to be weird, and weird people don’t have car payments.”

My Cost of Ownership is Low

Last year, my auto maintenance expenses totaled $523, but that included a new set of tires. Granted, I don’t drive much (mostly on weekends and road trips). But I still think this expense is relatively low. In fact, Edmunds shows that the total estimated cost of my car’s annual maintenance (not including the tires) is $150. For a Mercedes C-Class, it’s $260.

Let’s say I did buy a new car this year — even a new Corolla. At least until its eighth birthday, depreciation is the car’s biggest cost. At year one, the cost of depreciation is obviously at its highest — 57 percent of the total owner cost, according to Consumer Reports. Considering my current driving habits, my car would incur higher-than-ever depreciation while it sits in a parking spot. Seems like a waste. At five years, depreciation is still my largest expense, but at least it’s not depreciating as much (48 percent) while it mostly just sits there during the week.

This is a unique example, and perhaps it depends on perception, but the point is, the costs over time should be considered.

My Car Still has Value

I don’t consider buying a new car to be an investment. It doesn’t make sense to think of it that way, because it’s not an asset that has the possibility of appreciating. Yes, if you buy an expensive car, you can later sell it for more money than you could a cheaper car, but the same can be said for apair of boots.

I simply think of my car as part of my Stuff. Sure, I kind of need it, and it’s worth more than most of my other Stuff, but the bottom line is, I bought it to be used, not to watch its value increase. Thus, wouldn’t I want to get as much out of my money as possible?

While I don’t think of cars as investments, they also aren’t like the rest of our Stuff; usually, they’re a lot more expensive to replace. In an age when cellphones and computers are always upgraded, I feel like it’s easy to believe your vehicle needs an upgrade, too. I’m surprised at how many people say it’s “time for a new car” simply because they haven’t had a new car in a while. That’s a costly treat. Though some would argue upgrading a perfectly usable phone is a costly treat, too.

But What if You’re a Gazillionaire?

“But if you’re a billionaire, why not just buy a new car? It would be nothing to you,” my friend argued.

I’d like to think that,your idea of value often changes. “Comfortable” isn’t what it used to be, and you experience lifestyle inflation. This is where my friend and I came to a standstill — where do you draw the line? At 20, spending a couple of hundred bucks on a phone seemed like a huge waste of money, but nowadays, it’s just part of my budget. “You could just live bare bones, but why else do you have money?” my friend argued.

But then again, a $100,000+ Porsche Carrera is pretty far from bare bones. That’s an extreme example, but I see a lot of them around town, and I often wonder about the mind-set that went into spending that much on a vehicle.

Getting Off My Frugal High Horse

Having control over my finances makes me happier than any luxury vehicle could. But not everyone has as much fun with frugality. I also don’t get than new car itch. But plenty of people do, and I itch for other things that some people might see as a waste.

I’m about to take a pretty pricey vacation. I’ve been saving up for it, and I’m relishing it, the way many luxury car lovers would relish their purchase. I forget there’s an important difference between me and people who buy fancy cars: they like fancy cars.

There are plenty of practical reasons for not buying a luxury car. But we all have the urge to splurge on different things.

I’ll end with a question a GRS reader once posed. She wondered whether she should buy a new, luxury car. She could afford it, but she didn’t need it.

This comment was singled out as a favorite:

“If you can really afford it — you’re paying cash, you’re already putting enough money into your 401(k) to get the full employer match, you’re putting extra money into an IRA, you’ve got three (or six) months extra cash saved up, you don’t have any looming debt — then I think you should go for it. That’s what money’s for: buying things. […]”

I would agree with the above comment. When you’re financially free and fully prepared for your financial future, money is for buying things.

It’s a great comment. But I would have closed it with:

“Unless the car costs six figures.”

Even dismounted from my frugal high horse, I still can’t fathom a vehicle being that expensive.

Source: getrichslowly.org

Apache is functioning normally

This is the second post from Hilary Stockton, who is the founder of TravelSort, which helps savvy travelers earn millions of miles without flying, redeem them for first-class flights, and stay in luxury hotels at wholesale prices. Follow her on Twitter @TravelSort.

I often get asked about the impact on one’s credit score of churning or signing up for multiple rewards credit cards, especially by those new to earning a million or more frequent flyer miles and points via credit cards. It’s definitely important to protect your credit score, and no one should sign up for a slew of new credit cards without taking the time to understand how your credit score works and whether you should be applying for new credit cards at all.

1. Only sign up for new credit cards if:

  • You don’t have any credit card or other high-interest debt
  • You always pay your credit card bill off in full every statement
  • You have a steady income
  • You don’t plan to apply for a mortgage, refinancing, student loan or other major loan within the next year or so
  • You aren’t tempted to spend more by having more credit cards

If you do have any credit card or other high-interest debt, paying that off is far more important than earning miles, points, or any other kind of credit card reward. You also shouldn’t apply for a number of new credit cards if you plan to get a mortgage, refinancing or other major loan in the next year or so, because you want to ensure you’re offered the best possible interest rate.

2. Have a FICO credit score range 720 or above

FICO scores from the three credit bureaus (Equifax, Experian and Transunion) range from 300 to 850. You’ll need a credit score of at least 710 to apply for rewards credit cards, and preferably 720 or higher.

3. Get a free copy of your credit report

You’re entitled to a free copy of your credit report every year, which you should check to ensure there are no inaccuracies. If there are, you should dispute them, since they’re likely negatively impacting your score and your ability to not only be approved for the best travel rewards credit cards but also being able to secure the best possible interest rate for loans.

4. Know the difference between FAKO and FICO

Unfortunately, there are a lot of places offering to sell you your credit score that are completely worthless, because the score they’re providing isn’t the one that’s actually being used when determining whether to approve you for a new credit card or loan. These fake credit scores have been nicknamed “FAKO.” Even the credit bureaus themselves sell FAKO, so as not to have to pay to FICO to provide your actual FICO score. See more about this at Credit Score: FICO or FAKO?

5. Understand the factors influencing your credit score

Your FICO credit score is determined by these factors:

  • 35 percent is payment history: If you always pay on time, don’t carry any credit card balances and have no delinquent accounts, bankruptcies or similar against you, you’re fine. But make sure you continue to monitor your credit report to guard against inaccuracies.
  • 30 percent is credit utilization: This factor looks at the percentage of your credit line that you’re using. So, for example, if you have a $10,000 credit line on a card, you don’t want to maxing it out every month; in fact, you should ideally only be using a small percentage (under 10 percent) of your credit line. If you have a major purchase, pay it off immediately rather than waiting until the payment due date.
  • 15 percent is length of credit history: Just as the description implies, this factor measures your average age of accounts.
  • 10 percent is types of credit used: This factor looks at the various types of credit you use, such as home mortgage payments, car payments and credit card payments. It also helps explain why, frustratingly, some folks who rent yet own their own car and have never missed a credit card payment can have a lower credit score than a much more indebted homeowner with a leased car who is nevertheless making payments in full and on time.
  • 10 percent is new credit: This factor accounts for the hard pulls or inquiries that result from applying for new credit, such as a mortgage, car loan, student loan, and new credit cards. Each new hard pull does knock a few points off your score, although in most cases your score recovers within 90 days to six months.

6. Keep utilization low on personal credit cards

Due to how important credit utilization is in calculating your credit score, I always recommend you keep your credit utilization as low as possible on your personal cards:

  • Pay off major purchases right after they’re incurred, even before your statement close.
  • If you incur business expenses, ensure they go on a business credit card or charge card. Business credit card utilization is NOT reported to the credit bureaus.

7. Apply for new credit cards on the same day, as close in time as possible

The reason most serious credit card churners apply for multiple credit cards simultaneously, or as close in time as possible on the same day, is two-fold:

  • By not applying for any credit cards for a few months you can avoid being rejected for “too many recent credit inquiries.”
  • If you’re applying for two or three personal cards from the same bank, your hard pulls may be merged into one, reducing the impact on your credit score.

8. Don’t close your oldest credit cards

As mentioned above, credit history accounts for about 10 percent of your FICO score calculation. That’s why you want to always keep at least one or two credit cards that you never close. Make sure they’re no annual fee cards, and preferably a no annual fee card that still earns rewards.

9. Avoid closing a credit card without first transferring the credit line to another open card

Be careful when closing credit cards that you don’t lose the credit line. Opening new credit cards can actually help your credit score over the long term if it increases your total amount of credit relative to your utilization. So, when you do decide to close a credit card, ask the representative to transfer the credit line to one of your other credit cards from the same bank.

10. Stop applying for new credit cards about one year before applying for a mortgage or major loan

As I mentioned in the first tip, it’s key to not let lucrative credit card rewards blind you to the importance of securing the lowest possible interest rate for a mortgage or other major loan. Stop applying for new credit cards about one year before you apply for a major loan, continue to always pay your balance off in full every statement, and aim to keep your credit utilization at 10 percent or lower for all your personal credit cards.

Source: getrichslowly.org