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When they’re finally ready to make the jump from renting to home ownership, most first time homebuyers enlist a real estate agent to help them through the process. No wonder: buying a home is complicated and when it’s your first time, you feel like you could use some hand-holding.

Real estate agents provide a valuable service and are generally well-paid as a result. There’s nothing wrong with that. But money does have a way of distorting relationships — even when honest people are involved.

Here are some tips that will help you, as a first time homebuyer, take full advantage of today’s real estate market and get the most out of your relationship with your real estate agent.

1. Your agent is your agent

When you’re new to the process, it is easy to believe that the guy with 20 years’ experience calls the shots. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Your real estate professional is your agent: he or she works for you, gives you advice and negotiates on your behalf. He doesn’t make decisions for you and you should not expect him to.

2. Only fools fall in love

After you’ve looked at a few houses that weren’t quite right, your agent will probably tell you not to get discouraged, and that eventually you will “fall in love” with the right property.

Love makes you do stupid things. Stupid things like paying too much or looking past costly repair items. As a first-time homebuyer, you should develop a healthy ‘like’ for a property, but keep the relationship open, see other houses. There will be plenty of time for “love” after you’ve put in the 300 hours of sweat equity to make your house a home.

3. Be willing to walk away

If you never fall in love with a piece of real estate, you’ll never cry when you have to walk away from it. Real estate agents often use the phrase “my client will walk away” and some use it quite loosely to stress the importance of a point for negotiation. If you want to retain the full strength of your position as a buyer, you’ll need “I’ll walk away” to mean that you are done if your demands aren’t met.

For your agent to communicate this correctly to the seller, he needs to know that you mean what you say. And yes, if it reaches that point, you will need to walk away from a property. Not to worry: there are others out there. But don’t be surprised if you hear back from the seller a week later that he is willing to work with your demands.

4. Time is on your side

Your agent is going to tell you that you have to move quickly and make the best offer possible when you find the right property. This is not always the best advice. As a first time homebuyer, you are in a unique position of strength in terms of the real estate transaction. You aren’t selling your home, so you don’t have to move. You can look at and make offers on many properties. You can start with a low offer and negotiate upwards if the seller balks. You can table a counter-offer and look around a bit before deciding to pay more. The opposite is generally true of sellers in a buyer’s market. They need to sell the property and are motivated to move as quickly as possible. Use time to your advantage.

5. Your agent is not your friend

Your agent performs valuable services in the real estate transaction, but he really doesn’t make anything until you buy a piece of real estate. That makes him a salesman. Being a salesman, he wants you to feel like he is a friend who has your best interests at heart.

The reality is that your interests and your agent’s may not be aligned. He is actually better off financially if you make a quick decision and pay too much for a property. This is, after all, likely the largest business transaction of your life. Make sure that your agent, regardless of how personable he is, understands that you are a customer and that you need him to drive the best business deal for you.

6. The listing agent just might be your best friend

In the New York Times best-selling book Freakanomics, authors Steven D. Levitt and Stephen J. Dubner point out that real estate agents typically market their own homes for 10 days longer than they market their clients’ homes. Is this because they are so busy with their clients that they don’t have time to market their own homes?

No, it really comes down to how we incent real estate agents with commission. When an agent is selling his own home, he enjoys the full benefit of any increase in sales price so he is extremely motivated to market for as long as possible to get the best sales price possible. But when it comes to a client’s home, an extra week on the market might lead to a higher sales price for the seller — but the agent will only enjoy a very small amount of that increase in the form of marginal increase to commission. Meanwhile, marketing a home for another week would take him away from marketing someone else’s property. As such, the listing agent is highly motivated to convince the seller that your offer is the best offer he is going to receive. Use this to your advantage and make offers that are good for you.

7. There is no such thing as an embarrassingly low offer

When it comes to a property that has been sitting with no action, there is no such thing as an offer that is too low. Some agents will tell you that that you could offend the seller or that your offer is embarrassing. A good agent will encourage you to make strategically low offers. Offers are really not a lot of work and the worst thing that can happen is that your offer is not accepted. Often, however, in a buyer’s market a low offer will turn into a counter-offer. Think of the first offer as the starting point for negotiations and be prepared to consider counter-offers.

8. Online real estate companies can save you money

Over the past decade, online real estate companies have started to take market share away from traditional brick-and-mortar agencies. They’ve grown by offering discounts and rebates on the traditional 3% real estate commission. RedFin, one of the leading online real estate companies, offers buyers a rebate of up to 50% of the commission at close. RedFin also compensates their agents with salary as opposed to commission, which alleviates some conflict of interest issues. Granted, the service may not be as extensive or personalized — but the extra cash may offset the drawbacks.

8 Home Buying Secrets Your Real Estate Agent Won’t Tell You was provided by CreditSesame.com

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Want to pay off high-interest debt in one fell swoop? Searching for ways to pay for a basement renovation, a bathroom upgrade, or a new tile roof? Since you probably don’t have that kind of money stuffed under your mattress, a natural place to look for more funds is in your single biggest asset: your home.

But before you tap into those funds, you need to know exactly what you’re getting into. Putting your home at risk isn’t for the uninformed or undisciplined.

Home equity loan vs. home equity line of credit

The first step to tapping into your home equity involves understanding your options. There are two major ones: a home equity loan (HEL) or a home equity line of credit (HELOC). Here’s a handy guide to the basic differences between the two, including pros and cons.

Helpful tips on the HEL

A home equity loan is, at heart, a second mortgage. You receive a lump sum at a fixed rate of interest that’s locked in when you procure the loan. You’re expected to pay it back in fixed monthly payments for a fixed amount of time — typically 10 to 15 years.

Pros:

  • Your interest rate is fixed, which means no shocking increases later.
  • Because payments are due monthly, this can be a good option if you have a hard time exercising the discipline needed to pay off a loan a little at a time on your own.
  • The interest rate on a HEL, though higher than that on your primary mortgage, will still be lower than the rates available on credit cards.
  • If you’re using your HEL to pay off credit cards, in addition to lower interest rates, you’ll have the benefit of consolidating all your debts into one payment.
  • The interest on your home equity loan may be tax-deductible, but you’ll want to thoroughly read Publication No. 936, the IRS’s guidelines on the home mortgage interest deduction, to ensure the degree to which you’re eligible. If your loan is for home-improvement purposes, rather than, say, college tuition, you’re allowed even greater leeway in deducting the interest.

Cons:

  • You borrow (and owe interest on) the whole amount, rather than being able to simply borrow what you need.
  • If you’re using the equity to fund something that will involve multiple payments over time — say, for example, a phased home-improvement project or quarterly payments on college tuition — you’ll have to be sure not to spend the money on other things in the interim.
  • If you use your HEL to fund something that immediately depreciates, such as a car or new furniture, you may hurt your net worth in the long term. Boosting the value of your home has a better chance of enhancing your overall financial picture over the long haul.
  • You may be prohibited from renting out your home, according to your loan terms.
  • You risk losing your home if you can’t make the payments.

Hello, HELOC

A home equity line of credit, by contrast, functions more like a credit card — using your home as collateral. You ask for a line of credit, and the lender assigns a maximum amount you can borrow — a credit limit. Lenders typically determine this amount by taking a percentage of your home’s appraised value and subtracting the amount you still owe on the mortgage; then they factor in things such as your credit history, debt load, and income. The lender then gives you a set of blank checks or a credit card that you can use to withdraw funds.

Unlike a HEL, the line of credit allows you to borrow what you need, when you need it, up to the full amount approved. So why wouldn’t everyone want to apply for a HELOC in case an emergency strikes? Take a look at the pros and cons to see for yourself.

Pros:

  • You don’t have to borrow in a lump sum; you can withdraw the funds when you need them.
  • HELOCs can be used as emergency funds in the event of a crisis, like losing your job, since you can access funds on an ongoing basis as needed.
  • Some lenders may allow you to convert to a fixed rate of interest, or to a fixed-term installment loan, for part or all of your balance.
  • The rates of interest, though variable, may still be lower than other forms of consumer credit, since they are secured with collateral — your home.
  • The interest on your HELOC may be tax-deductible, just as it is for the HEL, but consult IRS Publication No. 936 for confirmation of what applies to your particular circumstance.

Cons:

  • HELOCs typically have variable interest rates tied to the prime rate, so you could end up owing a much higher balance than you had anticipated.
  • The terms of a HELOC may dictate that you must begin withdrawing funds within a certain time period, and that you withdraw a minimum each time.
  • The costs of securing a HELOC aren’t pocket change. Expect to pay for a current property appraisal, an application fee, closing costs, and other possible charges, including points on your loan. You may also be subject to transaction fees every time you withdraw money.
  • Though the HELOC offers flexibility in terms of when you withdraw funds, there is no flexibility in terms of the end date. When the term of your loan expires, the balance of the loan is due in full. If you procrastinate or have difficulty making regular payments over the long haul, you may be hit with an excessively large bill at the end.
  • Lenders make it very easy to access the funds; you have to be disciplined enough to resist unless there’s an emergency or a planned expenditure that’s worthy of risking your home.
  • You may be prohibited from renting out your home, according to your loan terms.
  • You can damage your credit and lose your home if you’re unable to repay on schedule.

Conclusion

Before you rush to apply for a home equity loan or line of credit, first give serious consideration to whether you really need the funds. The terms can sound enticing, and the money seems relatively easy to get, but it all may be too easy. If you’ve ratcheted up high-interest debt and now see your home equity as a way to deal with the problem, you need to recognize that the loan is just a temporary fix. Clearing the decks so you can start spending again will be destructive to your financial health.

Whether it’s a HEL or a HELOC, consider yourself a good candidate only if you have the discipline to use the funds for a dedicated purpose, you’re spending the money on something of vital importance, and you can repay on time. If that’s you, tapping into home equity can be a useful strategy for accomplishing your goals.

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While you can’t stop winter’s imminent arrival, there are preventative steps you can take to avoid an unexpected freeze to your cash flow. Mint sought out the experts for tips on how to protect your budget this winter.

Your Home

If you’re a homeowner, prevention is key to keeping maintenance costs low throughout the year—but especially in the winter. The best part is, you don’t have to have a knack for home improvement in order to stay vigilant about keeping home repair costs to a minimum.

Check your roof. If you are weary about climbing a ladder, you can get a feel for your roof’s condition from the ground with a pair of binoculars. Alyssa Hall of GAF, North America’s largest roofing manufacturer, recommends visually scanning your roof for any signs of sagging or uneven areas, which can indicate roof damage beneath the shingles.  On the shingles, look for curling edges, those that are missing entirely, and any signs of damage caused by animals. If you have asphalt shingles or a slate roof, look for black areas, which indicate that a shingle is cracked or missing. If you spot problem areas, call a roofer to assess the situation before snowfall strikes. If problems are left to worsen, you could have a sagging or caving roof, water leaks, and water damage on your hands.

Clean gutter systems. Hall also advises clearing gutters of any leaves, branches and roots, so that melting snow and ice has a way to get off the roof. Water or snow left standing on the roof increases the odds of leaks and ice dams—which can quickly lead to major repair costs.

Seal windows. Richard Apfel, president of Skyline Windows says, “the average home uses 10 to 15 percent of its energy costs through improperly sealed windows.” Check for leaks by placing piece of paper in the window frame and then closing the window. If you can pull the piece of paper out without tearing it, you’ve got an air leak. You can try to seal the leak yourself with silicon-based caulking materials (available at your hardware store). If you still feel a draft after caulking, buy a clear plastic window film kit (also sold at hardware stores). They’re inexpensive, easy to install with the help of a hair dryer, and can save you major bucks on your heating bills. Apfel also says, “the plastic creates an insulating air pocket that can cut heat loss by 25 to 40 percent.”

Maintain water pipes. Roto-Rooter Plumbing and Drain Service‘s Larry Rothman advises homeowners to disconnect outside water hoses and repair dripping outside faucets before temperatures drop to freezing.

If you have interior shut-off valves that lead to outside faucets, drain the water from the pipes and close them for winter. Wrap heat tape (available at hardware stores) around pipes that are in unheated areas to minimize the potential for frozen pipes. If you leave for the winter months, set the furnace to no lower than 55 degrees.

Your Car

Maintenance and safety. Experts at PEAK Automotive Performance advise replacing wiper blades, and filling wiper and brake fluid, motor oil, and antifreeze before the winter. Check tire pressure regularly as temperatures get lower; you’ll lose a pound of pressure for every ten degrees that drops. (Your driver side doorjamb will tell you the advised pressure—also called “pounds per square inch” (PSI). Check your battery life, too—they can lose up to one-third of their starting power in the cold. (PEAK experts say that many auto service shops will check this for little to no cost).

If you live in an area that gets snow and ice, keep a bag of sand in your trunk. If you get stuck, spread the sand underneath your wheels to gain traction.

Your Safety

Fire prevention. Heating is a leading cause of residential fires during the winter. When compared to central heating, using space heaters increases the risk of fire by three to four times, according to Brett Brenner, President of the Electric Safety Foundation International (EFSI). Plug space heaters directly into a wall outlet and allow at least three feet of space between the heater and anything that can catch fire. Never place the heater on cabinets, tables, or furniture.

If you use a space heater in a bathroom, make sure that it is specifically designed for use in a damp area.  When you leave a room or go to sleep, unplug the space heater.

Insurance. Review your homeowner’s, renter’s, and auto insurance policies to confirm that you have adequate levels of coverage before an accident happens. If you carry minimal amounts of coverage with a high deductible to save money on premiums, make sure that you have enough savings readily available to cover the deductible amount. Otherwise, you won’t be able to tap into your insurance coverage when you need it most. This is particularly true in the case of auto insurance. Remember that liability-only policies will help pay for damage you cause to other drivers—but won’t cover your auto repair costs.

Your Pets

Pets also face potential dangers in winter months and veterinary care can quickly erode your budget. Dr. Jules Benson of Petplan Pet Insurance reminds pet owners to remove snow, ice and salt from paws and the coat as soon as pets return indoors to prevent potential cuts and abrasions. (According to 2010 Petplan claims data, the average cost to tend to an injured paw is $200!)

Older pets and those with medical conditions can also experience exacerbated symptoms and joint pain in the winter months, so pay close attention to temperament changes. When applying rock salt to sidewalks and driveways, try to use a pet-friendly version and make sure animals do not ingest it. Besides the stress of a poisoned pet, Petplan data shows the average cost to treat it is around $500.

Stephanie Taylor Christensen is a former financial services marketer based in Columbus, OH. The founder of Wellness On Less, she also writes on small business, consumer interest, wellness, career and personal finance topics.

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Apartment hunting can be a real hassle. Newspaper listings don’t give you enough information, apartment guide magazines are almost always out of date, and driving around town looking for “For Rent” signs wastes time and gas.

Apartment search engines aim to make finding a new apartment easier by showing listings from multiple sites in a single, easy-to-read format. Some sites hit the mark, while others miss it by miles.

As a renter, here’s how I rank apartment rental sites from best to worst:

PadMapper

PadMapper is the one site I’ve had the most success with because you can customize your search results in nearly every way imaginable. The basic search goes by price, number of bedrooms, and type. The expanded search lets you enter in your own keyword or look for pet-friendly spots. But the best feature of PadMapper is the super-secret setting (seriously), which is a blue bar called “Show Super-Secret Advanced Features.” With this setting, you get a crime map, walk score, neighborhood layout, and mass transit map for each listing.

MyApartmentMap

If you’re looking for a specific type of rental, MyApartmentMap is the site to search. It sorts results by pets allowed, military housing, college apartments, or affordable housing. You can also refine your search within each option, such as, choosing cats, small dogs, or large dogs under the “pets allowed” subsection. The listings themselves are the easiest to browse of all the sites. Each listing has a photo and the rent price clearly marked.

HotPads

If you’re an organizational nut like me, you’ll love the interactive map on HotPads. Each apartment listing appears on the map as a color-coded “hotspot.” Clicking a hotspot pulls up the listing, and from there you can hide the apartment or add it to your favorites. Hiding a listing removes the hotspot, while adding to your favorites puts a star on the map. After sorting all the listings, you’re left with one easy map showing you which apartments you want to look at.

RentLinx

RentLinx does have some cool search features. You can look for income-based, Section 8-approved, handicapped-accessible, and smoke-free rentals. The site was harder to navigate than the others, and even after sorting by most recent listing, all of the ads I saw were a year or two old.

MyNewPlace

MyNewPlace is pretty bare-bones. The site does have some advanced search features that will let you sort by rent price or show you pet-friendly apartments, but the available listings are sparse. My ZIP code only showed 27 listings, whereas PadMapper, MyApartmentMap, and HotPads showed hundreds. After searching, the site required I give my email before I could view any of the listings. The signup sheet had a disclaimer that basically promises to spam my email with advertisements from the site. It adds, “Generally, you may not opt-out of these communications.”

Rentals.com

In my area, Rentals.com mainly listed sponsored ads from corporate apartment complexes with a few private rentals mixed in. While the site listed tons of complexes, the listings themselves weren’t all that comprehensive. None of the ads had floor plans, the photos included were mostly of the complex, and the pricing usually said “Varies.”

RentCompare

RentCompare was a navigational nightmare. The site’s two search options, sort by ZIP code or sort by city name, both came back with errors no matter how many different combinations I tried. When I finally got a search to work, the site required me to sign up before I could see the listings. Sign-up took four separate tries with four separate errors. In the end, I was able to see a few listings with some decent information, but the site wasn’t worth the hassle.

While I tried to cover most of the popular sites, there’s no shortage of others out there. Do you have a favorite site I didn’t mention, or one to avoid?

“The Best and Worst Apartment Rental Sites” was provided by MoneyTalksNews.

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Who needs hotels anymore? One of the internet’s greatest travel perks is that it’s  much easier for those looking for a place to stay to connect with someone who has a room to spare.

Rental sites like Airbnb.com let anyone put their spare couch, bed or house up for rent. The upsides for hosts: Greet people from all over the world, and pocket some cash for their efforts. The benefits for guests: Stay at unique places for a fraction of the price of a hotel room.

But staying at someone’s home isn’t quite the same as a hotel. There’s etiquette for both host and guest to follow so that both parties get the most out of the experience.

For Hosts:

Charge less first, then raise your rates, but be realistic. Figuring out how to price your place can be tricky. Charge too much and you won’t get any bookings; charge too little and you won’t be making as much as you could. Keep in mind that Airbnb earns its cut by doing a 6 to 12 percent markup on the listing price, so if you list a room for $100, Airbnb lists it for $106 to $112 and takes that extra money. But because it can be tough to get bookings on a site like Airbnb without a solid base of reviews, you may want to undercharge at first.

Jane Hodges, a business journalist whose new book about renting versus buying a house will be published this spring, listed the basement of her West Seattle home in April. Initially, she charged $55 per night and immediately got a ton of interest. Now her rate is $61, with a two-night minimum. She probably could charge more but the basement is not completely finished, particularly in the walk between the bedroom and bathroom, and she’s upfront with guests about that.

Chris Williams, a retired teacher in the former gold mining town of Nevada City, California,  decided to list the granny flat and a few spare rooms in her home on AirBnB to create extra income. She, too, started low on the pricing, but as her guests left rave reviews on the website, her rooms started showing up higher on the search listing, and she eventually had a full calendar of bookings. Still she keeps her rates lower than she could — $35 to $45 per room, with a two-night minimum – because the kitchen, living room and outdoor patio are all common areas, and she doesn’t serve meals. “I realize that the rooms aren’t as private as hotel rooms, so I don’t feel I can charge as much.”

Use the professional photographer. Airbnb offers to send one to new listings so that quality photos of your room appear on the site. Both Hodges and Williams had photographers who routinely shoot for realtors’ property listings come to their homes. Take advantage of that. Because the photographers know what they’re doing, they generally will do a better job emphasizing the assets of your home better than you can. Also, Airbnb-commissioned shots feature a “Airbnb.com Verified Photo” watermark on the site, which makes potential guests believe that your killer apartment actually exists.

Consider a two-night minimum. Of course, if you’re starting out as a new listing, it’s wise to go short to build up your list of reviews. Once you earn those, it’s better financially to go for longer-term guests. “I’ve turned down requests for people who need a place to stay for a night, will arrive at 11 p.m. and leave for the airport at 6 a.m. Ditto for people who want the place on the same day. It takes time for me to get the place ready — wash up, dust, vaccum, shop for breakfast” says Williams. It’s not worthwhile to do that day-in, day-out, especially if you’ve got a life, and daily maintenance will eat into those rental fees.

Ask guests to contact you first. At the top of your listing, ask that people send you a note inquiring about availability before trying to book.  This serves as a test for whether they actually read your listing before attempting to book, or were simply dashing off requests to everybody in a five-mile radius. It also allows you to communicate with potential tenants, so you can decide whether or not you feel comfortable taking them as guests. But respond to every message, even if it’s only to say that your place isn’t available. Airbnb tracks and publishes what percentage of messages you reply to as your “Response Rate,” so having a high number makes you look like a more receptive host, and it puts you higher up in the search rankings.

Fill out a detailed profile. That means a real photo of you (smiling, of course), and a bit of information about who you are. A filled-out profile reminds potential guests that you’re a real person. Also, make sure you list your neighborhood. Airbnb listings allow you to tag your place by neighborhood. It allow users who are searching for particular neighborhoods (say, the neighborhood of Williamsburg in the vast borough of Brooklyn) to find you.

Screen potential guests. If somebody who contacted you via Airbnb has no reviews or an incomplete account, ask them to send a bit of info about themselves. You want to know as much about a potential tenant as possible because you are letting them into your home, after all.

Also, you want to make sure it’s a good host/guest fit. Some hosts like to hang out with their guests and show them around town, other prefer that guests be as self-sufficient as possible. Williams is the former. She asks guests what brings them to town, so she knows what advice to give them to make their trip more fun. “I’ve found that just about everybody is happy to share that info. If they refuse or ignore the request, I consider that a warning sign, and I move onto the next person.”

Offer the basics. Good linens and towels (including washcloths) are a must. Hodges recommends good bedside lighting and a table or stand to put a book and a glass of water down on at bedtime. She also includes a coffeemaker and a cold breakfast of granola bars and fruit (cheap and easy to purchase). Williams puts hairdryers in every room, and takes mini bottles of shampoo and conditioners from her hotel trips to put in her guest bathrooms. “I can’t tell you how many guests told me that I just saved them luggage space. Anything you can do to lighten their luggage load is a plus, and makes them feel like they are staying in more of a hotel-like environment.”

For Renters:

Do not try to book without communicating first. Airbnb is not Expedia or Travelocity. Just because a date appears to be available on the calendar does not mean you can stay there that night. Message the host, introduce yourself , tell them what brings you to town, then ask politely if your requested dates are available.

Read the entire listing before messaging. Don’t waste the host’s time by asking questions with readily available answers like “are you near the airport?” or “do you have a kitchen?” You look like a undesirable guest and you’re far more likely to have your request rejected. “I don’t want to be their mom,” says Hodges. “If they book decently in advance and do research on the area, I am happy to fill out the cracks.”

It’s not a hotel. That means you should have some basic courtesy when it comes to cleaning up after yourself and making noise. Remember that your hosts have lives, too. One of Hodges’ biggest annoyances is guests who don’t say what time they’ll arrive. “Some people are not specific when they’re coming, so I’m stuck in the house waiting for them. Now when they book, I ask them to give me a two-hour window so I know what time to be here when they arrive.”

Williams’ pet peeve is guests who bring “extra guests” home at night. “You’re a few steps up from being a stranger in my home. I don’t want total strangers as well.”

Fill out your profile. The same rules apply to guests as hosts. “If your profile makes you look friendly and decent, I’ll usually allow you to book,” says Williams. That means a real (non-threatening) photo of you, and some information about who you are and where you’re coming from. More than anything else you do, this will raise the percentage of your reservation requests being accepted.

Vanessa Richardson is a freelance writer in San Francisco who writes about small business and personal finance.

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John Ulzheimer, a MintLife personal finance expert, is answering questions straight from fans of the Mint.com Facebook page. Here’s what he has to say about short sales and credit scores:

Q1: How exactly does short selling your home impact your credit and for how long?

A short sale is a more recently popular way to dispose of an underwater mortgage, which is a mortgage where you owe more than the home is worth. According to some sources, about 30% of mortgages are currently in this situation, including the mortgage belonging to yours truly, a humbled credit expert.

A short sale occurs when a buyer makes an offer on your home but that offer doesn’t cover the amount of loans taken against the house. So, if you owe $250,000 but are offered only $200,000, then you’ve been made a short offer. If your lender agrees to accept the offer to dispose of the home, then the home has been sold short. The good news is you’re out of the loan and don’t owe that $50,000 deficiency balance.

The news isn’t all good. Short sales are reported to the credit reporting agencies as a settlement, which is an accurate depiction of the loan. The lender settled for less than your really owe, hence the settlement credit reporting. And, yes, settlements are considered to be derogatory by credit scoring systems.

Don’t believe the marketing by real estate agents that short sales are better for your credit than foreclosures. That’s not true. Settlements will remain on your credit reports as long as foreclosures do and they have the same impact to your credit scores. The only difference is if the lender doesn’t report the deficiency balance along with your settlement. If that’s the case, then the impact to your credit scores isn’t quite as bad as a foreclosure.

Q2: Why does not paying our bills drop our credit, but paying them does nothing? I shouldn’t have to have debt to get credit, it seems stupid and backwards!

I appreciate your frustration when it comes to credit ratings/scores. They are maddening if you expect them to function like common sense suggests. This isn’t going to change your mind but credit scores are completely driven based on what’s predictive of your risk as a borrower. Some things matter and some things don’t.

Now, having said that, your comment about having debt being necessary to get credit is absolutely incorrect. In fact, not having debt is much better because of the infamous “DTI” ratio. DTI, or debt-to-income, is the amount you pay each month to satisfy debts, relative to your income. The fewer debts you have, the better your debt-to-income percentage and the more likely you are to be approved for large loans, like mortgages.

Additionally, I can assure you as someone who spent seven years with his hands deep inside the FICO scoring system, that paying your bills is handsomely rewarded by FICO. The most important factor in your FICO score is your payment history. The absence of negative information, which means you always pay your bills on time, is worth 35% of the points in your scores.

The issue of having debt in order to have a good credit score or get more credit is widely misreported, mostly by people who simply don’t understand credit scoring. You don’t have to have one penny of debt (or ever had one penny of debt) to have FICO scores well into the 800s. FICO scoring has no memory, so they don’t know what your debt was yesterday, the day before, or 5 years before.

Now, I know what you’re thinking: When you apply for credit you’re getting into debt. That’s incorrect. Every single credit card you have ever opened starts off with a $0 balance. And, if you pay your bill in full each month, then you never have credit card debt.

Taking out loans, such as mortgages, auto loans, student loans or personal loans, certainly does mean you’re getting into debt. However, this is certainly considered a very different type of debt than that vile credit card debt, which, incidentally, is much less as a country than our student loan debt. And, FICO weighs that installment form of debt very differently than it weighs credit card debt. It’s quite easy to have great FICO scores even with large amounts of installment debt.

John Ulzheimer is the President of Consumer Education at SmartCredit.com, the credit blogger for Mint.com, and a contributor for the National Foundation for Credit Counseling.  He is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring and identity theft. Formerly of FICO, Equifax and Credit.com, John is the only recognized credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. The opinions expressed in his articles are his and not of Mint.com or Intuit. Follow John on Twitter.

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Credit Predictions for 2011, Part 1: Real Estate

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If you’re in the market for a new home, chances are you’ll have to compromise at some point along the way. Maybe you’ll have to commute a little farther than you’d like in order to get the best value for your money, or perhaps you’ll forgo a huge backyard to be closer to the city.

And when it comes to finances, you might find a disparity between how much house you want and how much house you can afford.

Home loans are made against your ability to repay. While the mortgage loan is secured against the house, it is really made against your income. That’s what mortgage lenders look for — income to offset liabilities.

Simply put, the amount of income you need to purchase a house will vary by your payment comfort level, including any other monthly debt obligations you might have.

Important terms

Mortgage payment: Principal, interest, property taxes insurance and mortgage insurance, if needed.

Consumer debts: Minimum payment obligations on things such as auto loans, credit cards, student loans, personal loans and installment loans.

Other debt obligations: Alimony and/or child support or any other court-ordered repayment obligations.

Running the math

Here’s a simple formula to calculate the amount of income you’ll need to purchase a home:

(Target mortgage payment + consumer debts) ÷ .36 = Gross monthly income needed to qualify

Most lenders limit your debt-to-income ratio (how much of your monthly income pays debt) to between 36 percent and 45 percent. While the exact ratio varies by lender and loan type, it’s best to base your calculations on the lower end to ensure that you won’t overextend yourself financially.

So, if your target mortgage payment is $2,000 per month and you have consumer debts of $300 per month, you will need approximately $6,388 gross monthly income to offset your housing expenses and consumer obligations.

Down payment

Your down payment is another important factor in determining how much income you’ll need to buy a home.

Consider the following loan scenario using a purchase price of $300,000 (assuming no other debts) and the current rates on Zillow Mortgage Marketplace.

Conventional loan

  • Down payment: 5 percent ($15,000)
  • Interest rate: 3.26 percent
  • Approximate mortgage payment: $1,770
  • Gross monthly income needed: $4,916

So, at the end of the day, how much income you need to purchase a home is predicated on your monthly income, consumer debt obligations and down payment.

Impact of debt

For every dollar of debt, you will need double that in income. So if you have a $300 car payment, you’ll need at least $600 per month or more in income to offset that debt.

Debt erodes income, and less income translates to less purchasing power.

So, does buying a home make sense?

Yes, so long as the amount you can borrow for your desired purchase price is in sync with your debt obligations and, of course, your down payment.

“How Much Income Do You Need to Buy a House?” was provided by Zillow.com. 

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