My friend Gillian called the other day — she’s been having money trouble and was looking for help. “I’m not really a financial advisor,” I told her. “I write about money, and I try to help people at my web site, but I’m not qualified to coach you one-on-one.” Still, she’s a friend, so I resolved to at least give her some advice. I asked her to explain the situation.
“Tom and I are working all the time, but we’re always broke. He just wrecked his car, but we don’t have money to get it repaired. We’ll have to use the credit cards again. We don’t have any other choice. There’s never anything left at the end of the month,” she said. “I need some help budgeting so that we don’t keep having this problem.”
“Well, let’s see what we can do. I guess the best place to start is with your monthly income and your monthly expenses. How much do you and Tom bring home each month?” I asked.
“About $4,000 after taxes.” That was about what I expected.
“How much do you spend?” I asked.
“All of it,” she said, laughing. I expected that, too.
“How much do you have saved?” I asked. “Do you have any savings at all?”
“No, we don’t,” she said. “There’s never been anything left over to save.”
They don’t have anything left to save because they’re very good at spending money. Gillian and Tom live well:
They have a nice custom-built home.
Each of them drives a late model SUV.
They have no kids.
They enjoy expensive hobbies.
I have friends who make half what Gillian and Tom do, but have built a nest egg because they maintain a frugal lifestyle. It should be easy for these two to reduce their spending to create a budget surplus. “Well, let’s see if we can find a way to free up some cash,” I said. “Let’s list your fixed monthly expenses.”
Gillian listed their bills one-by-one. I jotted them down, making note of anything that seemed particularly extravagant. “Okay, let’s see what we have,” I said. “You’re paying a housekeeper $50 a week. If you were to clean the house yourself, you’d save $200 a month.”
“But…” she began.
“I think you’d be surprised at how much difference $200 a month can make,” I said. “I know from experience that even a $50 positive cash flow can make the difference between feeling broke and feeling flush. A $200 difference is huge.”
“Yeah,” said Gillian, “but I don’t want to clean the house. It’s too much work.” I was puzzled. To me, this was a quick and obvious way to free up money. If I were in her shoes, the housekeeper would be the first thing to go — it would be worth some extra work on my part. I tried a different approach.
“You each have a cell phone,” I said. “Do you both need one?”
“Yes,” said Gillian. “I don’t know what I’d do without one. And Tom needs one for work. I need to be able to reach him.”
Her reasoning seemed thin, but I pressed on. “Well, what about the cable bill,” I said. “You’re paying $60 a month for that. That’s an easy one. What about cutting back to basic cable?”
“Oh, we can’t get rid of cable,” Gillian said. “We watch TV all the time.” I was silent. “Are you there?” she asked.
“I’m here,” I said. “I’m just trying to figure out what to do. In order for you to turn things around, you’re going to have to make some sacrifices.”
“Yeah,” she said, “but we can’t cut cable. Tom would have a fit.”
“Gillian,” I said, “this is a little frustrating. I thought you wanted to get out of your money situation.”
“I do,” she said, “but so far you’re just suggesting things for me to get rid of. Isn’t there something else we can do? Can’t we use a budget to get more money?”
“That’s what I’m talking about,” I said. “Cutting things like these is making a budget. I know it seems terrible to have to give things up, but you need to make sacrifices — at least in the short term — in order to get ahead. You don’t have any savings. Any disaster means you’re putting money on your credit card. You need to build up some savings. You need to pay off your existing debt. In order to do this, you need to spend less than you earn. Right now you’re spending exactly what you earn, and you’ll never get ahead that way. I know, because for years that’s how I operated. You’re going to have to tighten the belt, Gillian. It’s the only way.”
I paused, and then said, “You need to decide what’s important.”
It was obvious I wasn’t going to be able to help her. I hadn’t even explored the Big Ideas, like moving down to a smaller home or trading one of their SUVs for a used car. I had started with the medium-sized stuff — the obvious chaff. But Gillian wasn’t interested in making changes if it meant altering her lifestyle. I changed the subject.
We talked about summer. Gillian asked how our garden was. I described the knee-high corn, the ripe raspberries, and Kris’ monster tomatoes. “I’m jealous,” she said. “I don’t have time to garden. I did get a chance to go to the nursery last week, though. I was able to pick up five shrubs on sale for about $10 each.”
The shrubs were the final straw. There was nothing I could do to help her because she wasn’t ready to be helped. She wasn’t ready to listen. She said she wanted to change, but she didn’t really. She was looking for a magic pill, something that would make life easier without any effort on her part. That’s not how it works. Eventually Gillian will reach a place so bad that she’ll begin to see the need to take responsibility for improving her situation, but she’s not there yet.
Our conversation reminded me of an episode of This American Life I heard recently. The show profiled debt guru Dave Ramsey, and at one point the reporter played a segment in which Dave experienced similar frustration:
Tina calls Dave because she’s upside-down on her car loan. She recently wrecked the car, but rather than use the money to repair the vehicle, she spent it. “Ooooo-kay,” says Dave, obviously flustered. “I’m afraid what you’re looking at is probably a really good part-time job, about six or eight months of 80 hour weeks.”
“Eighty hour weeks?” says Tina. “That’s too much work.”
“I can’t help you, Tina,” says Dave.
And I can’t help you, Gillian.
This story is based on actual events. Names and situations have been changed to protect Gillian’s identity.
This was an actual weekend harvest from our garden last August.
At Get Rich Slowly, we get many requests for information about starting a vegetable garden. This is huge topic, and really enough fodder for an entire website. If you’re a novice gardener you will benefit by asking yourself six questions before mail-ordering seeds or heading to your local nursery. Now is the time to do your research so that you’ll be ready for planting season.
Do you actually like to eat vegetables?
If not, focus on fruits and herbs, edible and ornamental flowers, and a favorite veggie or two. A well-tended garden will produce a lot of vegetables. If you are lukewarm about zucchini then pass up that beautiful seedling. (Or go introduce yourself to your five nearest neighbors so that you can share come July).
What is your gardening space like?
This is probably the most important question for the novice gardener. If you are starting from bare dirt or, more likely, a patch of lawn, you have some work to do. The plot needs to be evaluated for sun and wind exposure, moisture/drainage, soil pH and elemental content, pests, and other factors.
When we moved to the new house, J.D. used math to determine our garden location.
Crop gardens need a sunny spot. But remember that the angle of the sun in the summer months will be different than it is now. Nonetheless, try to watch over the next few weeks to determine where the sun hits your property. If I have to choose between morning sun and evening, I prefer morning sun — it is less intense, which means watering needs are decreased. Here in Portland, however, it’s hard to give a garden too much sun.
Get online and tap the resources at your local university’s extension offices. You can usually find them just by searching for your state’s name and “extension service”. Many states offer free soil testing, which will tell you how to amend the soil if nutrients or organic matter are lacking, or if the pH of the soil needs to be adjusted. Your county’s Master Gardener program may also offer this service. Each crop has an optimum pH growing range. We add acid for our blueberries and strawberries; kale and peas like a slightly alkaline soil. If your soil is close to neutral (pH 7), you can probably proceed as-is.
These tomatoes were started from seed in February. In May they’re ready to be transplanted!
Even if your soil is terrible, you still have options. On a small scale, container gardening can be rewarding. A cherry tomato, well-watered, can do well in a large pot on a patio. Better yet, build some raised beds. These will require an initial investment for the soil to fill them and construction materials, but they provide better drainage, warmer soil temperatures in the spring (and thus earlier crops), and reduced weeding. (Please avoid pressure-treated lumber, though, there is some evidence that the toxic chemicals leach into the soil. Okay for a picnic table, but not for the dirt where your eggplant is growing!)
If this all seems rather intimidating, I encourage you to start small. Don’t roto-till the entire lawn under until you really decide that crop gardening is for you. If your gardening space is less than ideal but you’d like to take the plunge, perhaps one 6’x12′ foot raised bed is the perfect beginning. Or try growing herbs.
During our second summer, we tore up sod to expand the garden space.
Herbs are one of the most forgiving classes of plants to grow — almost as easy as weeds — especially the hardy perennial herbs. Except for excessively moist soil and total shade, almost any conditions will support herbs. They thrive in sunny, dry areas. Herbs are also some of the most frugal crops you can grow because they are outrageously priced at the grocery store and can be used to make even basic ingredients into a stand-out meal. It’s worth the cost to start with herb plants rather than seeds so that you can use them right away.
Perennial herbs like sage, rosemary, thyme, lemon verbena, mints, chives and oregano require very little work. Again, do your homework for your climate. And a word to the wise: some herbs are invasive. Mints have spreading roots that will take over your entire city block. They are best in a container with a solid bottom rather than planted directly in the ground. Others, like oregano and fennel, spread easily by dropping their seeds. If you want to avoid little fennel and oregano families, be sure to trim off the flowers before they go to seed.
Last year we added an herb garden.
Short term, long term, or both?
Plants generally fall into two categories: annuals or perennials.
Annual crops start from a seed, mature and bear fruit (or vegetable) in one season, then die. In our region, corn is an annual, as are cucumbers, watermelons, and tomatoes. Plants that can survive the winter to regrow for another crop season are typically perennials, Examples include asparagus, blueberries, artichoke, and rhubarb. This also applies to flowers, of course: sunflower (annual) versus rose (perennial). I tend to think of fruits in the perennial group: fruit trees and berries are perennials. Most vegetables (again, this is for my climate) are annuals. Obviously there are exceptions to this generalization, like the melon family.
To decide where to focus your gardening energies, you should know your climate zone. This will help you determine the length of your growing season and which annual crops are going to have time to ripen.
Perennials usually cost more than annuals initially (buying an apple tree sapling, for example), and will require patience. We planted asparagus two springs ago and are hoping for our first taste this April. But these plants are longer living, and give you bigger returns for relatively little work. Asparagus plants can live for twenty years before needing replacements; an apple tree may not bear a crop for the first five years, but may live to be one-hundred.
If you’re just getting your gardening feet muddy for the first time, I recommend annuals. Tomatoes are extremely rewarding, as are other salad fixings such as lettuce, spinach, cucumbers, radishes and carrots. Other easy crops to start with are beans, onions (or leeks/shallots), potatoes, and pumpkin (although this needs room to spread). Besides the instant gratification they provide, mistakes with annuals are easily corrected the next season without much expense. Did the birds eat all your peas? Try something next year to protect them. Has your corn crop failed? Next spring, try it in a sunnier place.
Our strawberry plants have spread like crazy in the past three years.
If you have enough space and the inclination, try a bit of both annuals and perennials. A strawberry patch won’t produce much the first year, but the plants will reproduce and spread to give you a bounteous crop. Dwarf fruit trees are a nice option if you are looking for an ornamental small tree; most have beautiful blossoms, too. And don’t forget those herbs!
We planted two apples, a pear, and prune. We also have a filbert and walnut. (We never get many filberts — our yard is home to a Kingdom of Squirrels.)
Who are your gardening neighbors?
Tap those resources. Most gardeners love to talk about their plants. You can learn a lot about what works for your area by listening to their stories of success and failure. If you do a bit of pre-planning, you could also take part in a seed co-op. A typical tomato seed packet may hold 30 seeds — more than enough to split among four gardeners. Many vegetable starts are sold as single pots, but some come in six-packs that can be easily shared. With knowledge and experience, you can even harvest seeds from local gardens (with permission, of course) to plant the following spring. And if you’re lucky, when it’s time for the woman across the street to divide her lavender bush, she’ll share half with you!
Can you control yourself?
Most seed packets run only $2-$3, so they are tempting. But spending money and wasting your time on plants that won’t do well in your garden is an exercise in summer-long frustration. Evaluate your space and the soil and sun conditions. Learn to avoid catalog phrases such as “spreads quickly” or “freely self-sows” unless that’s what you really want. Don’t trust the catalog! The pictures are tempting, but they often show the plant only at its peak — what will it look like the rest of the time? Is it invasive? Poisonous? Hard-to-grow? Will it require constant maintenance? Use the internet and your library’s garden references to research seeds and plants before you buy them. I have found the internet to be a wonderful alternative to a knowledgeable nursery employee.
Do you have the time and money to grow your own food?
Gardening, initially, isn’t cheap. Besides plants and seeds, you’ll need garden tools, fertilizers, soil amendments, watering devices and a million other small things. But for those who savor its rewards, gardening is a labor of love. With time, and smart choices, having a kitchen garden does pay off financially. Herbs will pay for themselves quickly, and over the years, so will the berry bushes and canes, fruit trees and fresh vegetables. J.D. and I literally ate several hundred dollars of free homegrown berries this past spring and summer — all from a bit of our own labor, a few supplies and the investment of the canes and bushes. And that crop will only be bigger next year.
We’ve also dug up the lawn to plant grapes and caneberries.
Most gardens, even sizable ones, can be maintained with thirty minutes of work per day. Hoe weeds while they’re small, mulch properly, water wisely and be timely about harvesting. But if you let the garden tasks slip for a week or two, you may face a daunting task of huge weeds, spoiled crops or everything dead from lack of water. Gardening requires a time commitment if you want to reap the benefits.
Other Thoughts
If you are a beginning gardener, start small. Build on your successes. Be wise: it’s easy to dive in headfirst and then be overwhelmed. Research the plants you want to grow and the conditions they require, build a manageable raised bed if you’re starting from scratch, and use local resources to gain knowledge and cut costs.
Gardening requires a bit of seed money to begin, but the rewards are many! Healthier, fresher food, time in the great outdoors and a connection to nature, as well as engaging in an activity that can build community. And I haven’t even mentioned how much more excited kids are to eat their vegetables when they helped grow them or how people appreciate a homemade gift from the garden — whether a beautiful bouquet, and bunch of fragrant herbs, a fresh salad or a jewel-toned jar of jam.
In January fresh tomatoes are but a gardener’s dream.
Final Note
I recommend keeping your vegetable/fruit garden as organic as possible. One of the greatest benefits of growing your own is avoiding the pesticides (et al) on grocery-store goods. Insect diversity in your yard may be enough to keep pests in check; if you have an outbreak, simply try spraying with lightly soapy water, or other low-impact methods. If your soil is healthy and the plants are well-nourished, the plants will be strong and the bugs will be kept at bay.
This may not be practical in all climates, but here in Oregon, a few minutes each night hoeing will keep down the weeds, and the plants can take some munching by a bug or two once they’re established. With fertilizers, most choices are fine. I like an organic foliar spray — one that goes directly onto the leaves of my plants — but the crystalline concentrates that you mix with water can be fine as well, as long as your soil is already full of good organic matter and friendly worms.
Preparing for a baby doesn’t have to cost a lot of money. Magazines and TV ads will tell you that you need to spend a fortune in preparation for your little darling’s arrival, but it’s simply not true. When my husband and I were expecting our first child, my husband was working at a small radio station and had a pretty small salary. I was a teaching assistant at our local special education preschool, and my paycheck was also pretty small. Here are some of the things I’ve learned about preparing for a baby when you don’t have a lot of money.
Borrow things. Women love to share maternity and baby items. Don’t buy a lot of things before you publicly announce that you’re expecting, because once you make the big announcement, you’re sure to get offers of gently used maternity clothes, baby clothes, and baby equipment….as well as lots of baby advice. I think it’s a rite of passage for women to pass down their maternity clothes to other pregnant women. Take advantage of it.
Buy used. There are many stores that consign strictly baby and children’s items. Consignment stores are great for stocking up on baby clothes and baby equipment. Since the owners are usually very strict about what they will accept for sale, the items you’ll find in a consignment store are generally in excellent condition.
Garage sales are another great place to pick up baby clothes. You can often find infant clothes in great condition for as little as $1 a piece.
Wait for the gifts. Don’t go out and spend a lot of money on the baby as soon as you find out you’re pregnant. More than likely, you’ll have at least one baby shower, where you’ll receive tons of baby clothes and all the little items you’ll need, like baby nail clippers, towels, a baby bathtub, and much, much more.
It’s also a well known fact that women love shopping for babies. So after your baby is born, you will probably receive even more gifts of baby clothes. So don’t feel like you need to buy a whole wardrobe for baby right away. I recommend stocking up on some comfortable baby pajamas for the weeks following your baby’s birth. When your baby is a month or so old, take stock of what you still need and shop from there.
You don’t need everything. When you visit the baby section in a department store, you might think you need to spend thousands of dollars to buy your baby every last bit of equipment. You don’t. You will need a place for the baby to sleep, a car-seat, some clothes, blankets for swaddling, diapers, and alcohol swabs to care for your baby’s belly button.
Nice additions are a bouncy seat or swing, a sling, a stroller, a diaper bag, some soft baby towels and washcloths, some bibs for dealing with drooling, and burp cloths for dealing with spitting up. A changing table, bottle warmer, wipe warmer, and lots of toys really aren’t necessary at all. Neither is an impeccably decorated nursery. Your baby will quickly outgrow typical nursery decor.
Consider Breastfeeding. This is definitely the least expensive and most convenient way to feed a baby. I was bottle fed as a baby, and my mom bottle fed all of my younger brothers, so I always figured that’s what I’d do too…until I saw the price of formula. After nursing my babies, there’s no way I’d bottle feed a baby. I’m not morally against it or anything, but breastfeeding is terribly convenient. And again…it’s free.
Think about cloth diapering. Cloth diapering is coming back en vogue, and it isn’t what it used to be. Now you can buy all-in-one diapers that are a diaper and cover in one easy-to-change package. Today’s cloth diapers use snaps or velcro in place of pins, so there’s no need to worry about poking baby with a pin. The prints are really cute, too. I used cloth diapers on my second child for a while, and it really wasn’t much extra work. It’s better for the environment, too. Though the initial expense of cloth diapers is greater than disposables, you’ll recoup the cost over time.
If you’re considering cloth diapering, The Diaper Pin is a great place to read diaper reviews and find places to buy cloth diapers. As with anything, don’t go overboard buying diapers at first. Different diapers work well for different babies, and you don’t want to be stuck with a huge stash of diapers that don’t work.
Use a midwife. These days you aren’t limited to having an obstetrician deliver your baby. Seeing a midwife often means a lower bill for your pregnancy and delivery. Most midwives are very sensitive to helping parents achieve the kind of birth experience that they want to have, rather than having a delivery full of medical interventions. If this appeals to you, a midwife might be a good option. Just make sure that your midwife is affiliated with an obstetrician for backup, in case something comes up that needs a physician’s attention.
Skip the circumcision. If you aren’t going to circumcise for religious reasons, consider skipping it all together. The AAP now considers circumcision an elective procedure, so many insurance companies aren’t covering it anymore.
Prepare in advance for maternity leave. As soon as you find out you’re expecting a baby, start saving money for maternity leave. Practice living on one income well in advance of the time your baby is born. This is also good advice if you’re not going to be returning to work at all. You’re more likely to succeed as a one income family if you have practice living on one income before you actually lose your income. It’s hard to learn how to live frugally when you’re not getting enough sleep.
Though it’s hard to be completely prepared when you’re expecting a baby, these are some good ways to minimize the financial impact of your baby’s birth. Do you have other suggestions? I’d love to hear your comments!
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Lawns are symbols of Los Angeles’ past. In this series, we spotlight yards with alternative, low-water landscaping built for the future.
On a closely packed street in Inglewood, where single-family home after single-family home overlooks a manicured lawn, a spectacular garden filled with California native plants reaches to the sky and spills onto the sidewalk.
In Brian Bautista’s yard, upright showy penstemon, aromatic hummingbird sage, hardy toyon trees, and two types of milkweed — dramatic plants requiring little water — attract birds, butterflies and bees and flourish amid the Bermuda grass lawns.
“I tore out both my front and back yards because they provided little value to the house,” Bautista said of the former patchwork of weeds and grass. “I had to mow it; it never looked good. And I had to keep spending money watering it and maintaining it.”
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Soon after Bautista and his wife, Debora Lee, purchased their first home in 2020 and the pandemic closed down the economy, the 38-year-old visual effects editor embarked on a do-it-yourself gardening overhaul despite having no previous gardening experience.
“All of a sudden, I had more spare time than I knew what to do with since I was no longer going into an office in Hollywood for 60 hours a week to work on movies,” he said. “It was time for an upgrade. I decided to do it myself because we had just bought a house and had no money.”
Living in drought-stricken California, the self-described “millennial with climate change anxiety” decided to remove his lawns and plant a drought-tolerant landscape filled with California native plants.
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To get a handle on how to proceed, he enrolled in the Department of Water and Power’s free hands-on “Lawn Be Gone” workshop conducted by the district’s contractor, the G3 Green Gardens Group.
In a two-day workshop held over two weekends, Bautista learned about garden design, turf removal, soil-building, rainwater capture, plant selection, planting and irrigation, and dry garden maintenance.
“They showed us how to use a sod cutter; we installed irrigation and dug a swale,” he said of the project site. “Everyone planted something.”
Armed with eight hours of instruction and a litany of Waterwise Community Youtube videos, Bautista removed the backyard first, “in case it didn’t work out,” he said with a laugh.
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Working over six months, he removed the hardscape and bricks and ripped out the old metal irrigation pipes, which were leaking. He then proceeded to sheet mulch the lawn using empty cardboard boxes left over from the couple’s move and a truckload of compost and mulch from U.S. Rock Corp. (In sheet mulching, cardboard or newspaper is placed on a close-cropped lawn to block the sun and prevent growth. The cardboard is then topped with compost and mulch; eventually, the “lasagna” layers decompose to create healthy soil without chemicals or pesticides.)
“It’s a magical process,” he said of sheet mulching. “It didn’t take long at all.”
Once the compost and mulch had been laid, Bautista started planting, and the garden began to take shape: Bright lemon-yellow Palmer’s Indian mallow, tall spikes of Pozo Blue sage and De La Mina verbena, pink flowering heuchera (Martha Roderick and Canyon Duet) and three types of dudleya (Giant Chalk dudleya, Green Form, Fingertips).
He also added gutters and underground pipes to move the gutter water to a new swale (a stormwater retention feature is required to receive a turf removal rebate) that now infiltrates rainwater into the groundwater basin and feeds a 30-year-old guava tree.
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“A swale is cheap and affordable and can handle much more water than a rain barrel,” Bautista said. During this year’s record rainfall, Bautista was delighted to see that the swale he installed handled the overflow water “like a champ.”
Regarding landscape design and plant selection, Bautista relied on the California Native Plant Society’s Calscape website and the Waterwise Garden Planner for Southern California as guides. Most plants came from Theodore Payne Nursery in Sun Valley and Artemisia Nursery in El Sereno.
“I wanted a low-water, colorful, smell-good garden that works for Inglewood, and those two websites helped me tremendously,” Bautista said. “The site will tell you the plants that naturally grow in your neighborhood. You can research sun exposure, plant type and water needs.”
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Before he installed the plants, he applied for a turf removal rebate from the city by scanning a sheet of graph paper into his computer and using Photoshop. (The Metropolitan Water District of Southern California’s turf replacement rebates fluctuate and are currently $2 a square foot for a maximum of 5,000 square feet per year, but some water agencies may offer additional incentives.)
When finished, he received a rebate of $3,309 for removing 1,100 square feet of turf. (He spent $10,993 before the rebate.)
Because applicants can only receive one turf removal rebate per fiscal year, Bautista tackled his front yard a year later. Once again, Bautista started by digging up the first inch of Bermuda grass in the front yard by hand and then sheet mulched the lawn.
This time, the process was quicker. “It took me two months end to end,” Bautista said, including gutters, hardscape, edging and building a trench to the swale in the backyard. “I knew what I was doing this time. I knew the order of operations, and it was much less complicated. My mantra was ‘Demo, dig, go!’” Bautista received $2,995 for removing 765 square feet of turf in the front yard after spending $8,480 on the transformation.
Three years later, Bautista has fallen in love with gardening and California native plants. “I would love to walk down the street and see more gardens like this,” Bautista said as he pointed out a ruby-throated hummingbird nibbling on one of his sage plants. “It’s like a symphony. Hopefully, we can help nature reclaim some space and provide more habitat for our birds, butterflies and bees and get some precious rainwater into the ground instead of down the street and into the storm drains.”
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When he first installed the garden, he watered the plants every day by hand to make sure they were well-hydrated. Down the road, he watered them once a week for a month. Then, it was once a month for a year. A year later, he started using drip irrigation in the front yard. Now that the backyard is 3 years old, he hasn’t watered it since it rained. “I’m still watering the front yard once a month,” he added. “Soon, I’ll stop watering the plants in the spring.”
Not one to sit still, Bautista recently added a laundry-to-landscape greywater system that he says was relatively easy to install. “It was a lot of digging,” Bautista said. “I dug a trench, and it was pretty easy because it didn’t have to be super deep. The mulch absorbs the water, and that water seeps into the ground and feeds the roots. It’s super cool because I am a plant nerd, so it lets me plant high-water plants that grow near a creek. Now when we wash our clothes, we’re watering them.”
While any visitor can appreciate Bautista’s gorgeous landscape, he is determined to help friends and family who want to tear out their lawns and plant drought-tolerant landscapes.
Francis Mekhail, a neighbor, met Bautista when he was redoing his front yard and plans to install a micro-forest in his backyard with Bautista in the fall.
“Brian is endlessly optimistic and enthusiastic about California natives,” Mekhail said in an email. “He is on an incredible mission to help convert at least an acre of land into native California plants. My wife and I didn’t know where to start, so Brian was an invaluable resource and a tremendous help. We assumed Brian would passively make a few plant suggestions. Still, we ended up getting a spreadsheet with general garden info, soil test results, construction schedule, materials (with links), plant design, irrigation design (with purchase list), a blooming schedule, plant list (with links) and to round things out a list of preferred vendors. He also helped us build the irrigation system and was with us on planting day.”
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Like many native plant fanatics concerned with conserving water, Bautista can’t contain his enthusiasm for creating an environment that supports California’s climate.
“This is a climate solution that I can do every day,” Bautista said. “I feel like I’m doing something for tomorrow.”
Here, Brian Bautista shares his plant list.
Front yard
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Palmer’s Indian mallow
Desert globe mallow (Louis Hamilton Pink Variety)
Showy penstemon
Red buckwheat
Hummingbird sage
Davis Gold toyon tree
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Heuchera (Island alumroot and “Wendy” varieties)
California fuchsia
Bush anemone (St. Elizabeth variety)
Narrowleaf milkweed
Woolypod milkweed
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Side yard
Dudleya (Green Form, Fingertips)
Cliff maids
Bush anemone (St. Elizabeth variety)
Woodland strawberry
Heuchera (Island alumroot, Wendy and Santa Ana Cardinal varieties)
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California coffeeberry
Giant chain fern
Backyard
Palmer’s Indian mallow
Desert globe mallow (Apricot variety)
Desert Grape (Roger’s Red and Regular variety)
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Red buckwheat
Pozo Blue sage
Verbena De La Mina
Howard McMinn manzanita
California Sagebrush (Canyon Grey and Regular variety)
Margarita ‘BOP’ penstemon
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Sulphur buckwheat
Davis Gold toyon tree
Evergreen currant
Heuchera (Martha Roderick and Canyon Duet)
Dudleya (Giant Chalk dudleya, Green Form, Fingertips)
This is the first post from Winston, the new GRS editorial assistant.
My wife and I have saved thousands of dollars by landscaping our own yard.
Four years ago, we were feeling overwhelmed by our back yard. We’d been in our home for a couple of years, had spent some time and money on the inside, and were ready to move on to backyard projects.
We spent a couple of seasons moving dirt around, trying different types of landscaping materials. This left us lighter in the pocketbook, but still unsatisfied with way things looked. Finally, we decided to contact a landscape architect. But we were worried that we couldn’t afford such a luxury, and doubted anyone would want to work on a small project like ours.
Professional Help
After asking the neighbors for recommendations, we discovered somebody who might be able to help. A long-time landscaper had just sold his business to his son-in-law to focus strictly on home landscape design. We scheduled an initial no-cost appointment with him, and instantly felt he had the skill and understanding to design a useable backyard we could enjoy.
He bid $500 for the design, which was over our budget. We talked with him about our $350 limit, and he found ways to reduce costs by providing black-and-white designs instead of color, and by leaving some beds for us to design ourselves.
After talking with us about some types of elements we liked and disliked (such as colors, textures, structures, and plant types), doing some measurements, and a few follow-up meetings, the designer presented us with the plans.
We received exactly what we were hoping for and could never have done ourselves: a beautiful landscaping plan that worked with both the house and the yard. Because he knew we planned to do the work ourselves over a period of years, the designer provided suggestions about where to begin, what to hire out, and how to implement the plan.
Laying the Foundation
Last summer, we tackled phase one of the plan.
A month after we received our plans, a local nursery had a 40%-off “going out of business” sale. With the designer’s list in hand, we were able to purchase about a third of our total plant materials at a substantial discount. We were worried because we weren’t anywhere near ready to put them into the ground yet. Fortunately, we live in a mild climate, and the plants survived several months in pots.
Hiring a landscape architect may have been the best thing we did for this project, but the second best was spending money to rent a track hoe to dig a base for the patio and to tear out a dilapidated 80-year-old concrete pond:
It amazes me that the rental yard in town would hand over the keys to such a destructive and powerful machine after only a five minute tutorial to a novice like myself. What would have taken months, if not years to accomplish by hand, this mighty machine accomplished in two days.
A third worthwhile expense was to have the concrete professionals come in to frame and pour the patio. We did the prep work — digging out the base, hauling out several yards of rock by wheelbarrow — but in a little over three hours, the concrete workers ensured a nice shape, proper drainage, and a beautiful pour for just over $800.
To finish last year’s backyard work, we put in the lawn. The ground was level and the soil was adequate, so all we had to do was rent a roller ($7), add minimal nutrients, and it was ready to go. We chose to lay sod because we have children and a dog, and it would have been very difficult to keep them out of seed-sown grass for an extended time. The small area lent itself to sod, and provided instant green for minimal cash outlay.
Putting It All Together
This year, we implemented phase two of our project. Hauling over 16 yards of compost and 1/4″-minus rock by wheelbarrow isn’t fun for most people, but I found it satisfying to see everything come together. Other things we’ve done include:
For the past two years, we’d been saving money for the plants, flowers, and shrubs we wanted. With a couple exceptions, we followed the professional design.
To build the three large raised gardening beds, some of the wood came from a deck we’d demolished four years ago.
To minimize water waste and the mental anguish of dragging hoses around, I installed six faucets in the various beds and gardening areas.
Before we’re finished, we’ll add the final grape arbor and to build a new fence around the garden.
Three years ago, our landscape architect estimated it would cost $25,000 to $30,000 to pay somebody else to implement his plan. By doing most of the work ourselves, we’ve spent a little over $3,500 on building materials, plants, shrubs, compost, soil, gravel, equipment rental, and the water system. We haven’t tracked our work hours, but our family of four has enjoyed the time outdoors and being together, even if it meant a lot of sweat equity.
The thrill of having dinner outside on the patio, enjoying the fruits of our labor, has exceeded our high expectations and has made the work and the expense worthwhile.
In some parts of the U.S., vegetable and flower seeds can be successfully planted directly into the garden. But in many areas, the growing season is too short to allow this.
Cool spring soil temperatures and cold weather can prevent seeds from germinating or kill young seedlings. If you wait until the weather warms, the plants get off to a late start only to be zapped by fall’s first frost; they don’t get a chance to bear a full crop or to put on a full floral display.
There are three solutions for home gardeners:
Buy all of your vegetables and flowers as plant starts, once the weather warms.
Extend the growing season outside with coldframes and rowcovers.
Start your own seeds inside while the wintry weather lingers.
The first choice is best for beginning gardeners who are working on a small scale. The second option is nice for committed gardeners who want to test the limits. Starting from seed, however, is easy, is cheaper per plant and allows a greater variety of choice among both ornamentals and crops than buying nursery plants.
I’m eager each (early) Spring to get my seeds going. On March 1st, I began seven types of flowers and my basil seeds. (As of March 5th, the basil has sprouted, as have a couple of the flowers.) In two weeks, I’ll start tomatoes and a few others, and the squash, cucumbers and more flowers will follow. How do I do it, and how do I know when to start? Here are my tips:
When Should I Start My Seeds?
In order to decide when to sow your seeds, you need to find the average last frost date for your region. In Oregon’s wet and unpredictable Willamette Valley, published last frost dates range from March 23 to May 14. Based on my own experience, I pick the latter end of this range and count backward from May 1st.
Click for full version of our 2009 seed-starting agenda.
I start my tomato plants six or seven weeks before this date. Slow-to-germinate flowers get an eight-week head start. Squashes and cucumbers don’t transplant especially well, but I germinate them inside to protect them from marauding slugs. I move them outside two weeks later before they’ve developed much of a root system.
What Should I Plant Indoors?
To determine what to plant indoors, read your seed packets. Many will list instructions for both inside and outdoor seed sowing. Knowing which to do will depend on your climate. With flowers, I often do both. I’ll start a limited number indoors for “insurance” and then sow the remainder of the packet directly in the garden once true Spring arrives.
Some crops should not be started indoors because they don’t transplant well or because they need an impractical amount of room. I would not recommend starting the following inside:
These cool season plants can withstand planting directly outside even before the weather fully warms. Likewise, things you are going to plant in large numbers should wait until they can be sown into the garden soil. The following are usually grown in sizable quantities:
Corn
Peas
Beans
If you are worried about your short growing season for crops like corn, look for varieties that have a short days-to-maturity period.
Tomatoes and peppers, broccoli, eggplants, cauliflower, melons and squashes can all be started successfully indoors. Herbs and flowers, too, benefit from the controlled environment of indoor seed starting. Let’s get started!
How Do I Start Plants From Seed?
The two most important factors for seed germination are temperature and humidity. The seed contains all the nutrients the plant needs to germinate, so it doesn’t need fertilizer or fertile soil.
Note: Fertilizer may actually prevent some seeds from sprouting. Generally, I avoid fertilizing until plants have grown their first set of “true leaves”, which look different than the first pair that emerges.
To start my seeds, I used the bio-dome from Park Seeds, a device that looks like a plastic greenhouse dome with a styrofoam tray. The tray holds little soil-less planting plugs called bio-sponges. Each plug has a hole in it for the seeds. I don’t normally advocate one product over another, but I really like these.
Seeds sprout best in a light soil; don’t use potting soil or garden dirt at this first stage! You can buy seed starting mix or make your own from peat moss, sand, and compost.
Note: Take care if using vermiculite; it can be a respiratory hazard. I prefer the little soil-less planting plugs because they’re mess free and they pop out easily for transplanting, doing minimal damage to the roots, but other methods work fine too.
Any device that keeps the environment moist and fairly warm will work. You can cover trays of soil with saran wrap or a dry-cleaning bag — poke plastic forks into the soil to hold the plastic layer up off the growing sprouts. Commercial peat pots, yogurt cups or milk cartons (poke drainage holes in the bottoms) or pots made from newspapers (avoid colored ink) all work fine, too.
Set your pots in a tray, tub or rimmed cookie sheet so you can water from the bottom, letting the moisture soak up through the soil. This helps keep the moisture level constant and prevents dislodging seeds with a fountain of water. Do not let the soil dry out! Little tiny seedling rootlets need constant moisture.
Seeds vary widely in size. I like to use tweezers to place them exactly where I want them. In general, seeds should be planted approximately four times deeper than their diameter. Some seeds need light to germinate and should be scattered just on the surface of the soil. Again, read those packets!
I usually put two seeds into each hole. I use three if I think the germination rate will be low. You can test your germination rate by placing ten seeds between layers of moist paper towels in putting them in a Ziploc bag in a warm place. This is a good idea if you have saved the seeds yourself or they are several years old. Do this 2-3 weeks before you want to actually start your seeds.
As you’re planting, take good notes! Make a planting diagram and jot down how many days it takes each type of seed to germinate. Some germination times are given as huge ranges (5-20 days). The happier the seed is (warm and wet), the speedier germination may be.
If you are using individual pots, mark them with labels or masking tape, unless you know for sure that you will recognize what the leaves of your young plants will look like. There’s nothing worse than getting your plants mixed up. This is especially important if you are starting different varieties of the same crop! Free plant stakes can be made simply by cutting up a plastic yogurt tub. Store your leftover seeds in a ziploc bag or glass jar in the refrigerator.
Now that the seeds are snug in their beds, cover them to retain moisture and put them in a warm place. A temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius) is ideal, but in March our house is nowhere near 70 degrees! I like to set my mini-greenhouse on a heating pad (a wet/dry safe heating pad set on low) to maintain a more constant temperature, since our thermostat drops to 54 degrees (12 Celsius) at night. Some people recommend putting the seed tray on top of the refrigerator. If your house is more temperate, the heat source is unnecessary. I have often started seeds without a heat source, but peppers and eggplants seem especially fussy about the temperature.
What Happens After the Seeds Sprout?
Once the seeds have germinated (keep them moist!), they’ll need light, nutrients and air. Give them some ventilation and move them to a very sunny window, supplemented with artificial light. There is no need to buy an expensive grow light or full spectrum light. For these purposes, a basic 48″ fluorescent shop light is all you need.
Tip: The type I own has two tubular bulbs per light; they’re available at home improvement stores for less than $20. The critical thing is to hang them in such a way that they can be raised as the plants grow; I use a link-type chain that can be doubled-up on itself to different lengths.
As your plants grow, keep the light about 6″ from their tops. If the light is too far away, the plants will grow spindly as they stretch for it. This can be rather tricky if you are starting different types of seeds at the same time, because they will grow at varied rates. You can lift the shorter ones with shoeboxes or phonebooks to alleviate this difficulty. Once all the seeds in your tray have germinated, remove the cover completely. Too much humidity at this stage can encourage mildew and harm the seedlings.
As you water, fertilize with a weak solution of water-soluble all-purpose fertilizer. I make mine about one-quarter the strength called for. Watch out for crystallized salts forming on your soil surface — that’s a sign you’re over-fertilizing and need to cut back. Turn the lights off for your plants at night (they need a dark cycle to grow properly) but leave the heat on (temperature fluctuations can stunt them).
What About Transplanting?
When the seedlings first sprout, they will usually have a pair of first leaves that look nothing like the true leaves that come later. (Many crops are dicots, but not all.) Watch closely, and soon after they have two sets of true leaves, it’s time to move the teenage seedlings into their first real apartment. Water your seedlings thoroughly an hour or two ahead of time, and then, working carefully and quickly, remove each seedling into its own pot.
At this point I generally use an all-purpose potting soil. Scooping them up from below, try your best to get all their little roots, and handle their tops as little as possible, and always by the leaves, rather than the stem. A damaged leaf can be replaced; a damaged stem often dooms a plant at this stage.
Depending on how long your plants will be living inside, you may perform only one transplant, or you may need two. For my tomatoes, I’ll move them into 4-inch plastic nursery pots first, then into gallon-sized pots before they go outside. Everything else gets one transplant, then into the garden.
Once your seedlings are thriving, it’s tempting to treat them a bit too carelessly. Being started inside in a safe environment, they can’t stand the shock of an immediate change in their conditions. Basically, they are weak, coddled little things. Expose them gradually to the out-of-doors by setting them outside on nice days for a few hours, being sure to bring them inside at night and making sure they don’t get sunburned or blown over. Some gardeners like to have a fan blow on their indoor starts, saying it strengthens the stems to withstand windy outdoor conditions. I can’t vouch for that, but I do think it helps prevent mildew.
Happy Planting
Wow, that seems like a lot of work when I write it all out. But it’s not really! Watching my garden plants grow from tiny seeds is a thrill every year. I love trying new things each spring and learning from my successes and failures. I hope these tips get you well on your way to learning what works best for you. Happy gardening!
High above the Las Vegas Strip, solar panels blanketed the roof of Mandalay Bay Convention Center — 26,000 of them, rippling across an area larger than 20 football fields.
From this vantage point, the sun-dappled Mandalay Bay and Delano hotels dominated the horizon, emerging like comically large golden scepters from the glittering black panels.Snow-tipped mountains rose to the west.
It was a cold winter morning in the Mojave Desert. But there was plenty of sunlight to supply the solar array.
“This is really an ideal location,” said Michael Gulich, vice president of sustainability at MGM Resorts International.
The same goes for the rest of Las Vegas and its sprawling suburbs.
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Sin City already has more solar panels per person than any major U.S. metropolis outside Hawaii, according to one analysis. And the city is bursting with single-family homes, warehouses and parking lots untouched by solar.
L.A. Times energy reporter Sammy Roth heads to the Las Vegas Valley, where giant solar fields are beginning to carpet the desert. But what is the environmental cost? (Video by Jessica Q. Chen, Maggie Beidelman / Los Angeles Times)
There’s enormous opportunity to lower household utility bills and cut climate pollution — without damaging wildlife habitat or disrupting treasured landscapes.
But that hasn’t stopped corporations from making plans to carpet the desert surrounding Las Vegas with dozens of giant solar fields — some of them designed to supply power to California. The Biden administration has fueled that growth, taking steps to encourage solar and wind energy development across vast stretches of public lands in Nevada and other Western states.
Those energy generators could imperil rare plants and slow-footed tortoises already threatened by rising temperatures.
They could also lessen the death and suffering from the worsening heat waves, fires, droughts and storms of the climate crisis.
Researchers have found there’s not nearly enough space on rooftops to supply all U.S. electricity — especially as more people drive electric cars. Even an analysis funded by rooftop solar advocates and installers found that the most cost-effective route to phasing out fossil fuels involves six times more power from big solar and wind farms than from smaller local solar systems.
But the exact balance has yet to be determined. And Nevada is ground zero for figuring it out.
The outcome could be determined, in part, by billionaire investor Warren Buffett.
The so-called Oracle of Omaha owns NV Energy, the monopoly utility that supplies electricity to most Nevadans. NV Energy and its investor-owned utility brethren across the country can earn huge amounts of money paving over public lands with solar and wind farms and building long-distance transmission lines to cities.
But by regulatory design, those companies don’t profit off rooftop solar. And in many cases, they’ve fought to limit rooftop solar — which can reduce the need for large-scale infrastructure and result in lower returns for investors.
Mike Troncoso remembers the exact date of Nevada’s rooftop solar reckoning.
It was Dec. 23, 2015, and he was working for SolarCity. The rooftop installer abruptly ceased operations in the Silver State after NV Energy helped persuade officials to slash a program that pays solar customers for energy they send to the power grid.
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“I was out in the field working, and we got a call: ‘Stop everything you’re doing, don’t finish the project, come to the warehouse,’” Troncoso said. “It was right before Christmas, and they said, ‘Hey, guys, unfortunately we’re getting shut down.’”
After a public outcry, Nevada lawmakers partly reversed the reductions to rooftop solar incentives. Since then, NV Energy and the rooftop solar industry have maintained an uneasy political ceasefire. Installations now exceed pre-2015 levels.
Today, Troncoso is Nevada branch manager for Sunrun, the nation’s largest rooftop solar installer. The company has enough work in the state to support a dozen crews, each named for a different casino. On a chilly winter morning before sunrise, they prepared for the day ahead — laying out steel rails, hooking up microinverters and loading panels onto powder-blue trucks.
But even if Sunrun’s business continues to grow, it won’t eliminate the need for large solar farms in the desert.
Some habitat destruction is unavoidable — at least if we want to break our fossil fuel addiction. The key questions are: How many big solar farms are needed, and where should they be built? Can they be engineered to coexist with animals and plants?
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And if not, should Americans be willing to sacrifice a few endangered species in the name of tackling climate change?
To answer those questions, Los Angeles Times journalists spent a week in southern Nevada, touring solar construction sites, hiking up sand dunes and off-roading through the Mojave. We spoke with NV Energy executives, conservation activists battling Buffett’s company and desert rats who don’t want to see their favorite off-highway vehicle trails cut off by solar farms.
Odds are, no one will get everything they want.
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The tortoise in the coal mine
Biologist Bre Moyle easily spotted the small yellow flag affixed to a scraggly creosote bush — one of many hardy plants sprouting from the caliche soil, surrounded by rows of gleaming steel trusses that would soon hoist solar panels toward the sky.
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Moyle leaned down for a closer look, gently pulling aside branches to reveal a football-sized hole in the ground. It was the entrance to a desert tortoise burrow — one of thousands catalogued by her employer, Primergy Solar, during construction of one of the nation’s largest solar farms on public lands outside Las Vegas.
“I wouldn’t stand on this side of it,” Moyle advised us. “If you walk back there, you could collapse it, potentially.”
I’d seen plenty of solar construction sites in my decade reporting on energy. But none like this.
Instead of tearing out every cactus and other plant and leveling the land flat — the “blade and grade” method — Primergy had left much of the native vegetation in place and installed trusses of different heights to match the ground’s natural contours. The company had temporarily relocated more than 1,600 plants to an on-site nursery, with plans to put them back later.
The Oakland-based developer also went to great lengths to safeguard desert tortoises — an iconic reptile protected under the federal Endangered Species Act, and the biggest environmental roadblock to building solar in the Mojave.
Desert tortoises are sensitive to global warming, residential sprawl and other human encroachment on their habitat. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service has estimated tortoise populations fell by more than one-third between 2004 and 2014.
Scientists consider much of the Primergy site high-quality tortoise habitat. It also straddles a connectivity corridor that could help the reptiles seek safer haven as hotter weather and more extreme droughts make their current homes increasingly unlivable.
Before Primergy started building, the company scoured the site and removed 167 tortoises, with plans to let them return and live among the solar panels once the heavy lifting is over. Two-thirds of the project site will be repopulated with tortoises.
Workers removed more tortoises during construction. As of January, the company knew of just two tortoises killed — one that may have been hit by a car, and another that may have been entombed in its burrow by roadwork, then eaten by a kit fox.
Primergy Vice President Thomas Regenhard acknowledged the company can’t build solar here without doing any harm to the ecosystem — or spurring opposition from conservation activists. But as he watched union construction workers lift panels onto trusses, he said Primergy is “making the best of the worst-case situation” for solar opponents.
“What we’re trying to do is make it the least impactful on the environment and natural resources,” he said. “What we’re also doing is we’re sharing that knowledge, so that these projects can be built in a better way moving forward.”
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The company isn’t saving tortoises out of the goodness of its profit-seeking heart.
The U.S. Bureau of Land Management conditioned its approval of the solar farm, called Gemini, on a long list of environmental protection measures — and only after some bureau staffers seemingly contemplated rejecting the project entirely.
Documents obtained under the Freedom of Information Act by the conservation group Defenders of Wildlife show the bureau’s Las Vegas field office drafted several versions of a “record of decision” that would have denied the permit application for Gemini. The drafts listed several objections, including harm to desert tortoises, loss of space for off-road vehicle drivers and disturbance of the Old Spanish National Historic Trail, which runs through the project site.
Separately, Primergy reached a legal settlement with conservationists — who challenged the project’s federal approval in court — in which the company agreed to additional steps to protect tortoises and a plant known as the three-corner milkvetch.
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The company estimates just 2.5% of the project site will be permanently disturbed — far less than the 33% allowed by Primergy’s federal permit. Regenhard is hopeful the lessons learned here will inform future solar development on public lands.
“This is something new. So we’re refining a lot of the processes,” he said. “We’re not perfect. We’re still learning.”
By the time construction wraps this fall, 1.8 million panels will cover nearly 4,000 football fields’ worth of land, just off the 15 Freeway. They’ll be able to produce 690 megawatts of power — as much as 115,000 typical home solar systems. And they’ll be paired with batteries, to store energy and help NV Energy customers keep running their air conditioners after sundown.
Unlike many solar fields, Gemini is close to the population it will serve — just a few dozen miles from the Strip. And the affected landscape is far from visually stunning, with none of the red-rock majesty found at nearby Valley of Fire State Park.
But desert tortoises don’t care if a place looks cool to humans. They care if it’s good tortoise habitat.
Moyle, Primergy’s environmental services manager, pointed to a small black structure at the bottom of a fence along the site’s edge — a shade shelter for tortoises. Workers installed them every 800 feet, so that if any relocated reptiles try to return to the solar farm too early, they don’t die pacing along the fence in the heat.
“They have a really, really good sense of direction,” Moyle said. “They know where their homes are. They want to come back.”
Primergy will study what happens when tortoises do come back. Will they benefit from the shade of the solar panels? Or will they struggle to survive on the industrialized landscape?
And looming over those uncertainties, a more existential query: With global warming beginning to devastate human and animal life around the world, should we really be slowing or stopping solar development to save a single type of reptile?
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Moyle was ready with an answer: Tortoises are a keystone species. If they’re doing well, it’s a good sign of a healthy ecosystem in which other desert creatures — such as burrowing owls, kit foxes and American badgers — are positioned to thrive, too.
And as the COVID-19 pandemic has demonstrated, human survival is inextricably linked with a healthy natural world.
“We take one thing out, we don’t know what sort of disastrous effect it’s going to have on everything else,” Moyle said.
We do, however, know the consequences of relying on fossil fuels: entire towns burning to the ground, Lake Mead three-quarters empty, elderly Americans baking to death in their overheated homes. With worse to come.
The shifting sands of time
A few miles south, another solar project was rising in the desert. This one looked different.
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A fleet of bulldozers, scrapers, excavators and graders was nearly done flattening the land — a beige moonscape devoid of cacti and creosote. The solar panel support trusses were all the same height, forming an eerily rigid silver sea.
When I asked Carl Glass — construction manager for DEPCOM Power, the contractor building this project for Buffett’s NV Energy — why workers couldn’t leave vegetation in place like at Gemini, he offered a simple answer: drainage. Allowing the land to retain its natural contours, he said, would make it difficult to move stormwater off the site during summer monsoons.
Safety was another consideration, said Dani Strain, NV Energy’s senior manager for the project. Blading and grading the land meant workers wouldn’t have to carry solar panels and equipment across ground studded with tripping hazards.
“It’s nicer for the environment not to do it,” Strain said. “But it creates other problems. You can’t have everything.”
This kind of solar project has typified development in the Mojave Desert.
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And it helps explain why the Center for Biological Diversity’s Patrick Donnelly has fought so hard to limit that development.
The morning after touring the solar construction sites, we joined Donnelly for a hike up Big Dune, a giant pile of sand covering five square miles and towering 500 feet above the desert floor, 90 miles northwest of Las Vegas. The sun was just beginning its ascent over the Mojave, bathing the sand in a smooth umber glow beneath pockets of wispy cloud.
On weekends, Donnelly said, the dune can be overrun by thousands of off-road vehicles. But on this day, it was quiet.
Energy companies have proposed more than a dozen solar farms on public lands surrounding Big Dune — some with overlapping footprints. Donnelly doesn’t oppose all of them. But he thinks federal agencies should limit solar to the least ecologically sensitive parts of Nevada, instead of letting companies pitch projects almost anywhere they choose.
“Developers are looking at this as low-hanging fruit,” he said. “The idea is, this is where California can build all of its solar.”
We trekked slowly up the dune, our bodies casting long shadows in the early morning light. When we took a breather and looked back down, a trail of footprints marked our path. Donnelly assured us a windy day would wipe them away.
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“This is why I live here, man,” he said. “It’s the most beautiful place on Earth, in my mind.”
Donnelly broke his back in a rock-climbing accident, so he used a walking stick to scale the dune. He lives not far from here, at the edge of Death Valley National Park, and works as the nonprofit Center for Biological Diversity’s Great Basin director.
As we resumed our journey, the wind blowing hard, I asked Donnelly to rank the top human threats to the Mojave. He was quick to answer: The climate crisis was No. 1, followed by housing sprawl, solar development and off-road vehicles.
“There’s no good solar project in the desert. But there’s less bad,” he said. “And we’re at a point now where we have to settle for less bad, because the alternatives are more bad: more coal, more gas, climate apocalypse.”
That hasn’t stopped Donnelly and his colleagues from fighting renewable energy projects they fear would wipe out entire species — even little-known plants and animals with tiny ranges, such as Tiehm’s buckwheat and the Dixie Valley toad.
“I’m not a religious guy,” Donnelly said. “But all God’s creatures great and small.”
After a steep stretch of sand, we stopped along a ridge with sweeping views. To our west were the Funeral Mountains, across the California state line in Death Valley National Park — and far beyond them Mt. Whitney, its snow-covered facade just barely visible. To our east was Highway 95, cutting across the Amargosa Valley en route from Las Vegas to Reno.
It’s along this highway that so many developers want to build.
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“We would be in a sea of solar right now,” Donnelly said.
Having heard plenty of rural residents say they don’t want to look at such a sea, I asked Donnelly if this was a bad spot for solar because it would ruin the glorious views. He told me he never makes that argument, “because honestly, views aren’t really the primary concern at this moment. The primary concern is stopping the biodiversity crisis and the climate crisis.”
“There are certain places where we shouldn’t put solar because it’s a wild and undisturbed landscape,” he said.
As far as he’s concerned, though, the Amargosa Valley isn’t one of those landscapes, what with Highway 95 running through it. The same goes for Dry Lake Valley, where NV Energy’s solar construction site is already surrounded by energy infrastructure.
What Donnelly would like to see is better planning.
He pointed to California, where state and federal officials spent eight years crafting a desert conservation plan that allows solar and wind farms across a few hundred thousand acres while setting aside millions more for protection. He thinks a similar process is crucial in Nevada, where four-fifths of the land area is owned by the federal government — more than any other state.
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If Donnelly had his way, regulators would put the kibosh on solar farms immediately adjacent to Big Dune. He’s worried they could alter the movement of sand across the desert floor, affecting several rare beetles that call the dune home.
But if the feds want to allow solar projects along the highway to the south, near the Area 51 Alien Center?
“Might not be the end the world,” Donnelly said.
He shot me a grin.
“You know, one thing I like to do …”
Without warning, he took off racing down the dune, carried by momentum and love for the desert. He laughed as he reached a natural stopping point, calling for us to join him. His voice sounded free and full of possibility.
Some solar panels on the horizon wouldn’t have changed that.
Shout it from the rooftops
Laura Cunningham and Kevin Emmerich were a match made in Mojave Desert heaven.
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Cunningham was a wildlife biologist, Emmerich a park ranger when they met nearly 30 years ago at Death Valley. She studied tortoises for government agencies and later a private contractor. He worked with bighorn sheep and gave interpretive talks. They got married, bought property along the Amargosa River and started their own conservation group, Basin and Range Watch.
And they’ve been fighting solar development ever since.
That’s how we ended up in the back of their SUV, pulling open a rickety cattle gate off Highway 95 and driving past wild burros on a dirt road through Nevada’s Bullfrog Hills, 100 miles northwest of Las Vegas.
They had told us Sarcobatus Flat was stunning, but I was still surprised by how stunning. I got my first look as we crested a ridge. The gently sloping valley spilled down toward Death Valley National Park, whose snowy mountain peaks towered over a landscape dotted with thousands of Joshua trees.
“Everything we’re looking at is proposed for solar development,” Cunningham said.
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Most environmentalists agree we need at least some large solar farms. Cunningham and Emmerich are different. They’re at the vanguard of a harder-core desert protection movement that sees all large-scale solar farms on public lands as bad news.
Why had so many companies converged on Sarcobatus Flat?
The main answer is transmission. NV Energy is seeking federal approval to build the 358-mile Greenlink West electric line, which would carry thousands of megawatts of renewable power between Reno and Las Vegas along the Highway 95 corridor.
The dirt road curved around a small hill, and suddenly we found ourselves on the valley floor, surrounded by Joshua trees. Some looked healthy; others had bark that had been chewed by rodents seeking water, a sign of drought stress. Scientists estimate the Joshua tree’s western subspecies could lose 90% of its range as the world gets hotter and droughts get more intense.
But asked whether climate change or solar posed a bigger threat to Sarcobatus Flat, Cunningham didn’t hesitate.
“Oh, solar development hands down,” she said.
Nearly 20 years ago, she said, she helped relocate desert tortoises to make way for a test track in California. One of them tried to return home, walking 20 miles before hitting a fence. It paced back and forth and eventually died of heat exhaustion.
Solar farms, she said, pose a similar threat to tortoises. And at Sarcobatus Flat, they would cover a high-elevation area that could otherwise serve as a climate refuge for Joshua trees, giving them a relatively cool place to reproduce as the planet heats up.
“It makes no sense to me that we’re going to bulldoze them down and throw them into trash piles. It’s just crazy,” she said.
In Cunningham and Emmerich’s view, every sun-baked parking lot in L.A. and Vegas and Phoenix should have a solar canopy, every warehouse and single-family home a solar roof. It’s a common argument among desert defenders: Why sacrifice sensitive ecosystems when there’s an easy alternative for fighting climate change? Especially when rooftop solar can reduce strain on an overtaxed electric grid and — when paired with batteries — help people keep their lights on during blackouts?
The answer isn’t especially satisfying to conservationists.
For all the virtues of rooftop solar, it’s an expensive way to generate clean power — and keeping energy costs low is crucial to ensure that lower-income families can afford electric cars, another key climate solution. A recent report from investment bank Lazard pegged the cost of rooftop solar at 11.7 cents per kilowatt-hour on the low end, compared with 2.4 cents for utility solar.
Even when factoring in pricey long-distance electric lines, utility-scale solar is typically cheaper, several experts told me.
“It’s three to six times more expensive to put solar on your roof than to put it in a large-scale project,” said Jesse Jenkins, an energy systems researcher at Princeton University. “There may be some added value to having solar in the Los Angeles Basin instead of the middle of the Mojave Desert. But is it 300% to 600% more value? Probably not. It’s probably not even close.”
There’s a practical challenge, too.
The National Renewable Energy Laboratory has estimated U.S. rooftops could generate 1,432 terawatt-hours of electricity per year — just 13% of the power America will need to replace most of its coal, oil and gas, according to research led by Jenkins.
Add in parking lots and other areas within cities, and urban solar systems might conceivably supply one-quarter or even one-third of U.S. power, several experts told The Times — in an unlikely scenario where they’re installed in every suitable spot.
Energy researcher Chris Clack’s consulting firm has found that dramatic growth in rooftop and other small-scale solar installations could reduce the costs of slashing climate pollution by half a trillion dollars. But even Clack said rooftops alone won’t cut it.
“Realistically, 80% is going to end up being utility grid no matter what,” he said.
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All those industrial renewable energy projects will have to go somewhere.
Sarcobatus Flat may not be the answer. Federal officials classified all three solar proposals there as “low priority,” citing their proximity to Death Valley and potential harm to tortoise habitat. One developer withdrew its application last year.
Before leaving the area, Cunningham pointed to a wooden marker, one of at least half a dozen stretching out in a line. I walked over to take a closer look and discovered it was a mining claim for lithium — a main ingredient in electric-car batteries.
If solar development didn’t upend this valley, lithium extraction might.
On the beaten track
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The four-wheeler jerked violently as Erica Muxlow pressed her foot to the gas, sending us flying down a rough dirt road with no end in sight but the distant mountains. Five-point safety straps were the only things stopping us from flying out of our seats, the vehicle leaping through the air as we reached speeds of 40 mph, then 50 mph, the wind whipping our faces.
It was like riding Disneyland’s Matterhorn Bobsleds — just without the Yeti.
Ahead of us, Muxlow’s neighbor Jimmy Lewis led the way on an electric blue motorcycle, kicking up a stream of sand. He wanted us to see thousands of acres of public lands outside his adopted hometown of Pahrump, in Nevada’s Nye County, that could soon be blocked by solar projects — cutting off access to off-highway vehicle enthusiasts such as himself.
“You could build an apartment complex or a shopping mall here, and it would be the same thing to me,” he said.
To progressive-minded Angelenos or San Franciscans, preserving large chunks of public land for gas-guzzling, environmentally destructive dirt bikes might sound like a terrible reason not to build solar farms that would lessen the climate crisis.
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But here’s the reality: Rural Westerners such as Lewis will play a key role in determining how much clean energy gets built.
Not long before our Nevada trip, Nye County placed a six-month pause on new renewable energy projects, citing local concerns about loss of off-road vehicle trails. Similar fears have stymied development across the U.S., with rural residents attacking solar and wind farms as industrial intrusions on their way of life — and local governments throwing up roadblocks.
For Lewis, the conflict is deeply personal.
He moved here from Southern California more than a decade ago, trading life by the beach for a five-acre plot where he runs an off-roading school and test-drives motorcycles for manufacturers. His warehouse was packed with dozens of dirt bikes.
“This is my life. Motorcycles, motorcycles, motorcycles,” he said, laughing.
Lewis has worked to stir up opposition to three local solar farm proposals. So far, his efforts have been in vain.
One project is already under construction. Peering through a fence, we saw row after row of trusses, waiting for their photovoltaic panels. It’s called Yellow Pine, and it’s being built by Florida-based NextEra Energy to supply power to California.
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Lewis learned about Yellow Pine when he was riding one of his favorite trails and was surprised to find it cut off. He compared the experience to riding the best roller-coaster at a theme park, only to have it grind to a halt three-quarters of the way through.
“I don’t want my playground taken away from me,” he said.
“Me neither!” a voice called out from behind us.
We turned and were greeted by Shannon Salter, an activist who had previously spent nine months camping near the Yellow Pine site to protest the habitat destruction. She and Lewis had never met, but they quickly realized they had common cause.
“It’s the opposite of green!” Salter said.
“On my roof, not my backyard,” Lewis agreed.
Never mind that conservationists have long decried the ecological damage from desert off-roading. Salter and Lewis both cared about these lands. Neither wanted to see the solar industry lay claim to them. They talked about staying in touch.
It’s easy to imagine similar alliances forming across the West, the clean energy transition bringing together environmentalists and rural residents in a battle to defend their lifestyles, their landscapes and animals that can’t fight for themselves.
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It’s also easy to imagine major cities that badly need lots of solar and wind power — Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Phoenix — brushing off those complaints as insignificant compared with the climate emergency, or as fueled by right-wing misinformation.
But many of concerns raised by critics are legitimate. And their voices are only getting louder.
As night fell over the Mojave, Lewis shared his idea that any city buying electricity from a desert solar farm should be required to install a certain amount of rooftop solar back home first — on government buildings, at least. It only seemed fair.
“Some people see the desert as just a wasteland,” Lewis said. “I think it’s beautiful.”
The view from Black Mountain
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So how do we build enough renewable energy to replace fossil fuels without destroying too many ecosystems, or stoking too much political opposition from rural towns, or moving too slowly to save the planet?
Few people could do more to ease those tensions than Buffett.
Our conversation kept returning to the legendary investor as we hiked Black Mountain, just outside Vegas, on our last morning in the Silver State. We were joined by Jaina Moan, director of external affairs for the Nature Conservancy’s Nevada chapter. She had promised a view of massive solar fields from the peak — but only after a 3.5-mile trek with 2,000 feet of elevation gain.
“It’ll be a little StairMaster at the end,” she warned us.
The homes and hotels and casinos of the Las Vegas Valley retreated behind us as we climbed, looking ever smaller and more insignificant against the vast open desert. It was an illusion that will prove increasingly difficult to maintain as Sin City and its suburbs continue their march into the Mojave. Nevada politicians from both parties are pushing for legislation that would let federal officials auction off additional public lands for residential and commercial development.
Vegas and other Western cities could limit the need for more suburbs — and sprawling solar farms — by growing smarter, Moan said. Urban areas could embrace density, to help people drive fewer miles and reduce the demand for new power supplies to fuel electric vehicles. They could invest in electric buses and trains — and use less water, which would save a lot of energy.
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“As our spaces become more crowded, we’re going to have to come up with more creative ideas,” Moan said.
That’s where Buffett could make things easier.
The billionaire’s Berkshire Hathaway company owns electric utilities that serve millions of people, from California to Nevada to Illinois. Those utilities, Moan said, could buck the industry trend of urging policymakers to reduce financial incentives for rooftop solar and instead encourage the technology — along with other small-scale clean energy solutions, such as local microgrids.
That would limit the need for big solar farms — at least somewhat.
Berkshire and other energy giants could also build solar on lands already altered by humans, such as abandoned mines, toxic Superfund sites, reservoirs, landfills, agricultural areas, highway corridors and canals that carry water to farms and cities.
The costs are typically higher than building on undisturbed public lands. And in many cases there are technical challenges yet to be resolved. But those kinds of “creative solutions” could at least lessen the loss of biodiversity, Moan said.
“There’s money to be made there, and there’s good to be done,” she said.
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It’s hard to know what Buffett thinks. A Berkshire spokesperson declined my request to interview him.
Tony Sanchez, NV Energy’s executive vice president for business development and external relations, was more forthcoming.
“The problem for us with rooftop solar,” he said, is that it’s “not controlled at all by us.” As a result, NV Energy can’t decide when and how rooftop solar power is used — and can’t rely on that power to help balance supply and demand on the grid.
Over time, Sanchez predicted, a lot more rooftop solar will get built. But he couldn’t say how much.
Rooftop solar faces a similarly uncertain future in California, where state officials voted last year to slash incentive payments, calling them an unfair subsidy. Industry leaders have warned of a dramatic decline in installations.
As we neared the top of Black Mountain, the solar farms on the other side came into view. They stretched across the Eldorado Valley far below — black rectangles that could help save life on Earth while also destroying bits and pieces of it.
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Moan believes the key to balancing clean energy and conservation is “go slow to go fast.” Government agencies, she said, should work with conservation activists, small-town residents and Native American tribes to study and map out the best places for clean energy, then reward companies that agree to build in those areas with faster approvals. Solar and wind development would slow down in the short term but speed up in the long run, with quicker environmental reviews and less risk of lawsuits.
It’s a tantalizing concept — but I confessed to Moan that I worried it would backfire.
What if the sparring factions couldn’t agree on the best spots to build solar and wind farms, and instead wasted years arguing? Or what if they did manage to hammer out some compromises, only for a handful of unhappy people or groups to take them to court, gumming up the works? Couldn’t “go slow to go fast” end up becoming “go slow to go slow”?
In other words, should we really bet our collective future on human beings working together, rather than fighting?
Moan was sympathetic to my fears. She also didn’t see another way forward.
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“We really need to think holistically about saving everything,” she said.
The sad truth is, not everything can be saved. Not if we want to keep the world livable for people and animals alike.
Some beloved landscapes will be left unrecognizable. Some families will be stuck paying high energy bills to monopoly utilities, even as some utility investors make less money. Some tortoises will probably die, pacing along fences in the heat.
The alternative is worse.
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So, I’m not quite sure how this all happened, but in approximately eight short! weeks, there’s going to be a very small human in the loft! And I’m kinda freaking out about it. After soaking up every one of the 72 glorious babymoon hours over the weekend, reality is now crashing down around me. It’s officially time to turn our attention to the to-do list. Diapers, bottles, something for the little thing to wear, maybe something for it to sleep in…yeah, I’ve really gotta get on all that.
But of course, rather than concern myself with practical issues like what a breast pump actually does, I’d rather focus on the aesthetics of it all! On the tippy top of my list is figuring out how to incorporate a baby into our physical space. There’s certainly no room for a nursery where all baby-related items can live behind a closed door. It’ll be a good long while before our new house will be done and I can have a space like this:
For the time being, I’m going to have to make due with everything being out in the open. And while I really don’t want all things infant to invade our space, I also don’t want to completely ignore the fact there will be a wee-one in our presence. So I’ve started hunting for subtle ways to incorporate baby-related decor. My starting place is this cool alphabet poster we happened to pick up a few years back originally intended as a baby present for someone else – whoops!.
It already fits into our very neutral color scheme perfectly and feels like something I won’t get sick of looking at! Thankfully, the new online framing company Framebridge was able to help me design a custom frame for it. I simply sent them the print in the mail and their framing experts emailed me back mock-ups of mat and frame suggestions. I just selected the final style and the print showed back up on my doorstep – ready for its spot on the wall! Can you guess which framing option I picked…
I decided to go with the classic modern style of the Marin frame with the white mat to really make the lighter tones in the poster pop. While I haven’t quite figured out where we’ll be hanging this lovely guy just yet, the print is currently the anchor piece for my baby-decor moodboard!
Think yummy warm browns from light natural wood to camel and touches of black with a minimalist undertone. I’m also really loving the anchor motif and mixing in a touch of metallic. I’m open to a few sweet accessories like that crazy adorable stuffed bunny hanging around too! Even I’m a sucker for something that cute and cuddly.
I’m not sure where or how I’ll incorporate these little baby-themed moments into the loft yet. Maybe I’ll create a little gallery wall around the bassinet. Or perhaps we’ll carve out a little play corner that can have our baby-themed art and some fun accessories. Or maybe I’ll just scatter a few aesthetically pleasing kid-friendly things here and there. Plans are now starting to form, so I’ll be able to share what we finally decide with you soon!
Even gathering just these few small inspiration items does get me excited to incorporate le bebe into our world! I’m thinking some instagram mini-frames will definitely be in my near future!
Right now Framebridge is also offering you a great opportunity to get your frame on. Simply enter the code APARTMENT34 at check out and enjoy 20% off 2 or more items!
nursery image via live loud girl // photography for apartment 34 by bianca sotelo
This post is in partnership with Framebridge. All thoughts, opinions and styling are 100% our own. Thanks for supporting collaborations we’re excited about and that help keep Apartment 34’s doors open!
As we’re sure you’ve noticed, photobooths are totally a thing at weddings these days. They’re a chance for people to act silly and enjoy themselves while providing you endless laughter and entertainment while sifting through photos months later. Sure the fake mustaches, silly hats and drunken group snaps may be starting to feel a little….tired, but the perfect place for a photo-opp is not just a trend, it’s a necessity! Your photographer is never going to get to snap candid pics of all your guests and besides – offering up an activity is furn for everyone. But we’ve been feeling ready for a fresh spin on the idea and thought you might be too. So if all those neon boas and oversized plastic sunnies are not really your pinky-in-the-air cup of tea, we’ve got the most epicly chic alternative for you! You’re going to love this wedding floral DIY.
Instead of hiring a company to create a photobooth backdrop for your wedding, or renting a clunky actual booth, we urge you to give this simple DIY a try! A fresh floral garland balloon backdrop is not only gorgeous and sophisticated, it’s SO versatile. Dot these babies throughout the dance floor, position them behind the bride and groom’s reception table, use them to create a stunning alter, the list is endless! You only need a few things to recreate this look – the most important being some gorge blooms – and thankfully florist Natasha Kolenko is here to walk us through mastering the fresh floral garland!
STEP 1: decide how long you’d like your garland to be. Cut a thin gauge wire to your desired length.
STEP 2: Choose your greens for the base of the garland. We used Ruskus and yummy smelling Jasmine vine as our base for a full, lush look. Trim excess stems from the greens and begin wrapping the stems around the wire until secure.
STEP 3: To add blooms to your garland, make bunches of 2-3 and wrap their stems together with wire, leaving approximately two inches of wire at each end. Use the ends of the wire to attach floral bunches to the garland. We used Anemones, white garden roses and white Tulips for a clean, crisp look.
STEP 4: When you are happy with your floral garland, wrap the wire on one end around the knot of the balloon. We used 36 inch round balloons and you can see in the pictures how the varying lengths and weights of the garlands affect the way they float. We love the idea of having some longer garlands draped on the floor with some shorter ones looking like they’re suspended in the air and, quite literally, floating around the room!
These balloons are simple and elegant and we love the way they just float effortlessly and dreamily around the space. Experiment and have fun with these massive balloons. They’re not only great for weddings. We think they’d be perfect for birthday parties, baby showers or any event you’re looking to make a giant statement.
And now that you’ve mastered the floral garland, use your skills to drape a garland across a table or around benches during the ceremony. All that’s left for you to do is to let your creativity soar!
original photography for apartment 34 by emily scott // art direction by bianca sotelo // florals + styling by natasha kolenko // florals c/o torchio nursery – visit them in the San Francisco flower mart!