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Last week we explored the impact defaulting on loans has on your credit reports and credit scores, and how it can leave you on the wrong end of a collection lawsuit. You can read that article here.
Today I’m closing out this 2-part series by exploring the impact of letting your auto loan and your home go into default.
Transportation
Unless you live in a city where rapid transit is a viable transportation option or you can ride your bike to work, you’re probably going to need a car. And no, public transportation isn’t really a realistic alternative in most large and expansive metropolitan areas. You’re going to need your car to get to work, chauffeur the kids, do your shopping, etc.
If you stopped making your car payments today, your car would be gone in 60-90 days. That’s a much faster response from a jilted lender than you would see with any other type of loan. It normally takes 6 months for a credit card issuer to charge off your balance. And, you’ll see below that not paying your mortgage lender doesn’t lead to immediate homelessness.
Bottom Line: In my opinion, defaulting on your auto loan is going to leave you with more problems than any other loan default. You can live without a credit card, but you can’t live without transportation to earn a living and take care of your family.
Housing
I know what some of you are probably asking, “Why wouldn’t you pay your mortgage first? You need a place to live, right?” You are absolutely correct. You do need a place to live. The good news is that even if you stop paying your mortgage today, you’ll have a place to live for probably the next 12-24 months.
It’s taking forever for lenders to begin foreclosure proceedings and even if/when foreclosure proceedings do start, it doesn’t mean you’re getting kicked out of your house. That’s the next step.
I’m sure we’ve all heard the stories of homeowners refusing to pay their mortgages and living rent-free for years before the lender has them evicted. In fact, there are even examples where the mortgage lender or the investor who has purchased the home out of default actually pays the former owner to leave.
I’m not suggesting this is the right thing to do; I’m just pointing out the realities in the mortgage default world right now.
Bottom Line: Defaulting on your mortgage is going to eventually cost you your home. But, that’s going to take some time and you may be able to use the extra money from the mortgage payment you’re not making to pay down/off other more expensive credit card debt.
Financial Burden
Financially, any default is going to sting, but the pain is variable across loan types.
For example, if you default on a car loan, the lender is going to pay to repossess the car and then probably liquidate it at auction. You’ll be held liable for any deficiency that remains after the car is sold. That could be as little as a few thousand dollars, unless you borrowed a ton of money to buy a quickly depreciating model.
Defaulting on a mortgage loan is going to lead to the same type of financial burden, just a much larger dollar amount. Once the house has been liquidated, likely for much less than you owe on the loan, you may or may not be liable for the deficiency balance. It’s not that cut and dry though, and you’ll want to speak with a lawyer and even a tax advisor about it.
Defaulting on a credit card is a different animal. There is nothing to repossess, which means there’s nothing to liquidate and apply toward your balance. You owe it all, plus interest.
Even when you default, the credit card issuer can still charge you interest and apply late fees. When they finally sell the debt to a collection agency, they can also charge interest. And, if they are successful getting a judgment against you, then yes, more interest can accrue, too. Use Mint’s loan calculator to see how long it will take to pay down each liability.
John Ulzheimer is the President of Consumer Education at SmartCredit.com, the credit blogger for Mint.com, and a contributor for the National Foundation for Credit Counseling. He is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring and identity theft. Formerly of FICO, Equifax and Credit.com, John is the only recognized credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. The opinions expressed in his articles are his and not of Mint.com or Intuit. Follow John on Twitter.
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Just when you think you’ve got this whole credit thing down, some new credit-related phrase creeps into the industry’s vocabulary: DTI ratio, APR, amortization, and the list goes on . Let me introduce you to the world of mortgage credit reporting, which is very different than just “regular credit reporting.” There’s an entire world of intermediary credit reporting companies called Mortgage Reporting Companies that service the massive number of mortgage lenders and brokers. Follow me…
How Mortgage Lenders Gather Your Credit Data
When you apply for a credit card or an auto loan, the lender will buy one of your three credit reports directly from one of the three credit reporting repositories; Experian, Equifax or TransUnion. They’ll then use that information, and the score they bought at the same time, to make their approve/deny decision and set the terms of your new account. That process occurs tens of thousands of times every single day.
When you apply for a mortgage loan, the game changes. Mortgage lenders don’t typically buy one of your credit reports — they buy all three of them. And, if you’re applying jointly with a spouse or someone else, the lender will buy all three of their credit reports, too. So, that’s 6 credit reports and 6 FICO scores (FICO is still the score used in the mortgage industry) of which the lender or broker will take possession.
What is a Residential Mortgage Credit Report (RMCR)?
Now, that’s a lot of credit reports and a lot of pages. It’s also a ton of redundant information. Think about the joint credit card you have with your spouse. That likely shows up on all 6 of your collective credit reports. Does the mortgage lender really need to see the same account 6 times? Of course they don’t.
Because of the large amount of credit report data required by mortgage lenders, the need for an intermediary service exists. This service accesses all of the credit reports required by mortgage lenders from the big 3 credit bureaus and then consolidates them into one easier-to-read credit report. This credit report is called an “RMCR,” or Residential Mortgage Credit Report, and the companies that provide them are referred to as mortgage reporting companies.
These companies act as brokers or resellers of the data maintained by Experian, Equifax and TransUnion. The mortgage lender will subscribe to their services and commonly request a credit report on a mortgage applicant or applicants. The mortgage reporting company will then go to the big 3 credit bureaus on behalf of the mortgage lender and buy the applicant’s credit reports and FICO scores.
But before they deliver this large amount of information back to the mortgage lender, they’ll combine the information into one RMCR. The credit score information will be displayed in one section, the negative data will be displayed in another section, and things like inquiries and personal identification information will be displayed in their own sections. This merged credit report (often called a “Tri-merge”) is considerably easier to read than reading six separate credit reports is.
How Can I Get a Copy of My RMCR?
If you’ve applied for a mortgage-related loan, you probably have your RMCRs in your closing paperwork, as mortgage brokers and lenders will often give you a copy. It’s a very valuable aggregate of information because it’s a comprehensive study of all of your credit reports and it includes your actual FICO scores, along with the 4 reasons why each of them wasn’t higher.
John Ulzheimer is the President of Consumer Education at SmartCredit.com, the credit blogger for Mint.com, and a contributor for the National Foundation for Credit Counseling. He is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring and identity theft. Formerly of FICO, Equifax and Credit.com, John is the only recognized credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. The opinions expressed in his articles are his and not of Mint.com or Intuit. Follow John on Twitter.
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John Ulzheimer, a MintLife personal finance expert, is answering questions straight from fans of the Mint.com Facebook page. Here’s what he has to say about short sales and credit scores:
Q1: How exactly does short selling your home impact your credit and for how long?
A short sale is a more recently popular way to dispose of an underwater mortgage, which is a mortgage where you owe more than the home is worth. According to some sources, about 30% of mortgages are currently in this situation, including the mortgage belonging to yours truly, a humbled credit expert.
A short sale occurs when a buyer makes an offer on your home but that offer doesn’t cover the amount of loans taken against the house. So, if you owe $250,000 but are offered only $200,000, then you’ve been made a short offer. If your lender agrees to accept the offer to dispose of the home, then the home has been sold short. The good news is you’re out of the loan and don’t owe that $50,000 deficiency balance.
The news isn’t all good. Short sales are reported to the credit reporting agencies as a settlement, which is an accurate depiction of the loan. The lender settled for less than your really owe, hence the settlement credit reporting. And, yes, settlements are considered to be derogatory by credit scoring systems.
Don’t believe the marketing by real estate agents that short sales are better for your credit than foreclosures. That’s not true. Settlements will remain on your credit reports as long as foreclosures do and they have the same impact to your credit scores. The only difference is if the lender doesn’t report the deficiency balance along with your settlement. If that’s the case, then the impact to your credit scores isn’t quite as bad as a foreclosure.
Q2: Why does not paying our bills drop our credit, but paying them does nothing? I shouldn’t have to have debt to get credit, it seems stupid and backwards!
I appreciate your frustration when it comes to credit ratings/scores. They are maddening if you expect them to function like common sense suggests. This isn’t going to change your mind but credit scores are completely driven based on what’s predictive of your risk as a borrower. Some things matter and some things don’t.
Now, having said that, your comment about having debt being necessary to get credit is absolutely incorrect. In fact, not having debt is much better because of the infamous “DTI” ratio. DTI, or debt-to-income, is the amount you pay each month to satisfy debts, relative to your income. The fewer debts you have, the better your debt-to-income percentage and the more likely you are to be approved for large loans, like mortgages.
Additionally, I can assure you as someone who spent seven years with his hands deep inside the FICO scoring system, that paying your bills is handsomely rewarded by FICO. The most important factor in your FICO score is your payment history. The absence of negative information, which means you always pay your bills on time, is worth 35% of the points in your scores.
The issue of having debt in order to have a good credit score or get more credit is widely misreported, mostly by people who simply don’t understand credit scoring. You don’t have to have one penny of debt (or ever had one penny of debt) to have FICO scores well into the 800s. FICO scoring has no memory, so they don’t know what your debt was yesterday, the day before, or 5 years before.
Now, I know what you’re thinking: When you apply for credit you’re getting into debt. That’s incorrect. Every single credit card you have ever opened starts off with a $0 balance. And, if you pay your bill in full each month, then you never have credit card debt.
Taking out loans, such as mortgages, auto loans, student loans or personal loans, certainly does mean you’re getting into debt. However, this is certainly considered a very different type of debt than that vile credit card debt, which, incidentally, is much less as a country than our student loan debt. And, FICO weighs that installment form of debt very differently than it weighs credit card debt. It’s quite easy to have great FICO scores even with large amounts of installment debt.
John Ulzheimer is the President of Consumer Education at SmartCredit.com, the credit blogger for Mint.com, and a contributor for the National Foundation for Credit Counseling. He is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring and identity theft. Formerly of FICO, Equifax and Credit.com, John is the only recognized credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. The opinions expressed in his articles are his and not of Mint.com or Intuit. Follow John on Twitter.
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Credit cards can do a variety of things: Buy items, facilitate auto-billing, earning rewards, and more. Some might even call them the Swiss Army Knife of the financial world.
But, can credit cards be used to help build a retirement nest egg? The answer is, yes.
There is a small handful of credit cards with rewards programs structured to allow you to deposit cash rewards into retirement accounts. These rewards are in lieu of cash back, airline miles, or points.
These cards, while relatively unknown, are very attractive products because they offer what no other rewards program offers: Wealth building capabilities.
Unfortunately, the number of cards that offer retirement rewards is very small. In fact, I was only able to find five of them. The cards offer rates and terms comparable with garden-variety rewards cards and some offer slightly higher credit limits than their non-reward peers.
American Express and Fidelity Brokerage Services
American Express has a partnership with Fidelity Brokerage Services and backs three such investment credit cards.
These cards allows the holder to convert the rewards points earned into cash deposited into a brokerage account, a 529 college savings plan or other retirement accounts, like an IRA. They also pay 2% cash back for your retirement account compared to only 1% for traditional cash back rewards programs.
Visa Signature
If you frequent merchants that don’t take the American Express card, then no worries. Visa partnered with Fidelity to offer an investment rewards card, Visa Signature credit card.
This card is more like a traditional cash back card and pays 1.5 points for every dollar you spend up to $15,000 and then 2 points after. This Visa card can be used to fund brokerage accounts, 529 accounts and IRAs.
And, my favorite thing about these American Express cards and the Visa card? No annual fees.
Upromise, Barclays Bank and MasterCard
For those of you who live and love Upromise, you’ve got an option too. Barclays Bank issues a Upromise branded MasterCard with tiered cash back rewards, depending on where and how you use the card.
The cash back can be deposited into a Upromise 529 college savings plan, into a high yield savings account or can be credited toward a Sallie Mae serviced student loan.
Credit Card and Retirement Savings Rules Still Apply
When choosing whether or not to use any credit card, including the aforementioned investment reward cards, be aware that the card issuer will go through their normal underwriting and approval process. These rewards cards tend to be reserved for people who have strong credit reports and credit scores.
When using the cards you’ll want to try your best to spend responsibly. If you revolve a balance, then you’ll start paying interest. When you pay interest on a rewards credit card you’re essentially funding your own rewards program with the interest fees.
Finally, these investment rewards cards are great for supplemental retirement efforts. They are not designed to be your only means of retirement funds.
Fifty dollars here, fifty dollars there will add up over a long period of time but it’s not enough to be your nest egg. And, while these investments can grow over time, they can also lose value because you’re going to be choosing what stocks or funds to buy with the value deposited into an IRA or a brokerage account.
If you’re not comfortable with risk or red numbers then stick to standard cash back credit cards.
John Ulzheimer is the President of Consumer Education at SmartCredit.com, the credit blogger for Mint.com, and a contributor for the National Foundation for Credit Counseling. He is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring and identity theft. Formerly of FICO, Equifax and Credit.com, John is the only recognized credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. The opinions expressed in his articles are his and not of Mint.com or Intuit. Follow John on Twitter.
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This is a guest post by Hank Coleman who writes about personal finance, investing, and retirement on his blog, Money Q&A. Hank shares his story about how he and his wife decided to become landlords.
I will tell you that I don’t know the first thing about this topic, so I would encourage anyone that is considering it, to read this first before becoming a landlord. I know there are pros and cons into becoming a landlord, so weigh all your options before diving in. Enter Hank…..
Many corporations in America require their employees to move every so often in order to give them with career progression, new opportunities, and challenges as they move up the ranks.
My employer is no different and recently told me of an impending move.
Like many Americans, I’m faced with a daunting choice.
Do I try and sell my home or become a reluctant landlord?
The anxiety of losing large sums of money or equity is one of the greatest fears for most homeowners with an impending move. I wanted to share with you some of my family’s thought process as to how we came to our decision to become landlords for the first time instead of selling.
It wasn’t an easy decision, and everyone’s situation is different. You have to look at it almost like a business and weigh the cost and benefits of your decision before taking the leap.
The Drawback Of Selling Our Home
There are several drawbacks to selling our home. Even though my wife and I live in an area of the country that has not seen the dramatic nosedive in real estate values, we have not seen any appreciation in our home’s value either. We could sell our house for pretty much the exact same price that we purchased it for four years earlier. The real problem with that scenario is that it is dramatically still a buyer’s market when it comes to buying and selling a home.
The buyers call all the shots, and they can make a lot of demands. Most sellers can expect to pay most if not all of the closing costs for both parties. They can also see demands for fixing up the home or even large price reductions. Trying to negotiate with a buyer will not do much good either because there are so many houses still currently on the market. A buyer can literally go down the street in most cases and find a more accommodating seller who needs to close in a hurry.
The Benefits Of Being A Landlord
Now, you may be thinking to yourself that you don’t want to be a landlord. I really don’t want to be one either and have to deal with finding tenants, evicting them when they don’t pay, checking credit reports, fixing broken toilets, showing my house to potential renters, and all of that other garbage. That’s why I hired a property management company to do all of that for me. But, I do want to increase my family’s net worth over the long-term, and owning real estate even if it is just adding one house every few years or so is one way to continue to build wealth.
There are other financial benefits of being a landlord too that many people may not immediately associate with the job. Like any homeowner, landlords enjoy many tax breaks.
In fact, there are more tax breaks for rental real estate owners than regular homeowners. Landlords are eligible to deduct their costs of operating their new rental business from their taxes.
You can deduct the cost of things like your property manager’s fee, maintenance costs, insurance, mortgage interest, home warranties, and a host of other expenses that start eating into your profit.
Renting Our Home At A Loss
Even renting out your home at a loss may be a better option than selling it outright. Of course, most of these calculations depend on your individual situation, your mortgage, how much down payment you used, and a host of other factors. For my wife and I, the comparables for renting a home like ours was $1,300 per month in rent. Currently, our mortgage, PMI, insurance, and property taxes cost $1,350 per month.
Additionally, we chose to use a property management company to help us rent our home, and they charge 10% of the monthly rent ($130 in our case). So, right off the bat, we have a negative cash flow of $180 that we are paying out of pocket every month. But, I’m very happy doing so, and I will tell you why.
Using a closing cost calculator, I can estimate that it will cost me about $14,000 or more in real estate brokerage commissions and fees to sell my $200,000 home. If I am losing $180 per month or $2,160 per year, it would take me about six and a half years to equal that $14,000 upfront cost. It is the difference between dying a thousand cuts or getting my head chopped off in one fell swoop. I’ll wait the market out. Eventually, home values in America will start to rebound…eventually.
Just like home values, rents will not stay low forever either. In fact, rents in American a rising year after year. There is nothing holding me back from raising the rent on my home in a few years and generating positive cash flow later. Almost anything is better in my book than losing $14,000 upfront and watching almost every penny of my equity disappear by selling.
According to the US Labor Department, rents across America have been rising 2.4% year over year, and that data is not even adjusted for inflation. At that rate alone, I could raise the rent on my to $1,500 over the next six years just to keep up with the times.
Eventually, your home could become a mini pension fund during retirement. At our current rate of repayment, my wife and I will have our home paid off thanks to the help of our renters at about the same time that we will be retiring to play golf and live on the beach. Even if I still charged $1,300 per month at that same house 26 years from now, the $1,170 after paying the property manager will be pure profit every month straight into our pockets.
A few more homes providing passive income like that would allow me to completely replace my pre-retirement income. While becoming a landlord is not a dream occupation that everyone aspires to, it is not something to be completely dismissed before you even consider it. There are great opportunities to choose something other than simply selling your home, taking a big financial hit, and moving on.
Pros Cons Becoming a Landlord
Everyone’s situation is different. Some people thrive being their own landlord, finding tenants, and are handy with a hammer. Some people want to get out of a house or an area at all costs and do not mind eating the closing costs in order to do so. Everyone has to make their own choices in the best interest of their family, but I wanted to let everyone know that they should not feel backed into a corner.
There are other options out there rather than simply succumbing to a realization that you have to lose money in order to move to a new home or a new city. All it may take in your situation is a little bit of cost benefit analysis on which course of action is right for you and your family’s well-being.
Hank Coleman is currently an officer in the US Army and also spends his free time as a finance writer who has written extensively for many financial websites and publications in addition to his own blog, Money Q&A. Hank has a Master’s Degree in Finance, a Graduate Certificate in Personal Financial Planning, and is currently studying and constantly putting off taking the Certified Financial Planner exam. His dream is to one day retire from the Army, open his own financial planning firm, and try to be just like his CFP® Idol, Jeff Rose.
Government officials can’t predict exactly when inflation will go down, but representatives of the International Monetary Fund expect the U.S. inflation rate to reach its 2 percent target by the end of 2023.
The information provided on this website does not, and is not intended to, act as legal, financial or credit advice. See Lexington Law’s editorial disclosure for more information.
Consumers around the world are currently grappling with rising costs, making many people wonder how long this high rate of inflation is going to last. Although the U.S. inflation rate has nearly quadrupled since 2020, inflation is even worse in other countries. In Israel, for example, the inflation rate has increased by 25 times in the last two years.
When inflation is high, consumers have less purchasing power, making it more difficult to afford housing, food, utilities and other necessities. Some consumers have even changed their spending habits to account for rising costs. So, how long will inflation last? No one knows for sure, but it’s possible to make an educated guess based on what the Federal Reserve is currently doing to reduce spending.
What is inflation, and how does it work?
The Federal Reserve defines inflation as an increase in the overall price level of an economy’s products and services. This refers to a general increase in prices, not an increase in a single product or service category. For example, it’s possible for the cost of dairy products to increase without the rate of inflation increasing.
When inflation is high, many consumers have less purchasing power. This is because their income doesn’t buy as many products and services as it did when inflation was low. Inflation also has a negative impact on banks that loan money at fixed interest rates. If a bank makes a loan at 6 percent interest, an inflation rate of 7 percent would reduce its real income, or the amount of money it earns after taking inflation into account.
In the United States, the Consumer Price Index (CPI) helps estimate inflation by tracking the average change of prices over time. This index doesn’t include the price of every good or service. Instead, it uses a market basket of goods and services typically purchased by consumers in urban and metropolitan areas. In July 2022, the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics reported that the CPI rose by 1.3 percent in June, bringing the total increase for the last 12 months to 9.1 percent.
Why is inflation so high right now?
Although many Americans are feeling the pinch of higher prices, inflation is a global problem. In response to the COVID-19 pandemic, government officials around the world implemented mandatory lockdowns to prevent the spread of the disease. With so many businesses closed, the demand for goods and services declined.
Once businesses started reopening, demand soared. With the unemployment rate falling to 3.5 percent in July 2022, job seekers have more bargaining power, driving up wages and giving many consumers more money to spend on goods and services. Consumers also saved more money than usual in 2021 due to concerns over how the ongoing pandemic would affect their finances.
Although demand has increased, many companies are unable to fill orders due to manufacturing and shipping backlogs associated with the pandemic. When demand exceeds supply, firms increase their prices, contributing to higher rates of inflation.
Finally, many consumers are spending more on services than goods, increasing demand in the service sector. As a result, it now costs more to rent an apartment, dine at a restaurant or hire someone to perform housekeeping or landscaping services.
The government’s response to inflation
The Federal Reserve is currently implementing contractionary monetary policy to reduce demand and give the economy a chance to cool off. This involves raising interest rates to decrease consumer spending and business-related investment spending.
The Biden-Harris administration is also focused on lowering costs for low-income and middle-class families. President Biden signed the Inflation Reduction Act of 2022 into law on August 16, 2022, and this act aims to reduce energy costs and make healthcare more affordable for Americans.
Because the current inflation rate is associated with high levels of demand, there isn’t much more the federal government can do to bring prices down. The plan is to continue raising rates until the inflation rate returns to 2 percent.
When will inflation go down?
Government officials can’t predict exactly when inflation will go down, but representatives of the International Monetary Fund expect the U.S. inflation rate to reach its 2 percent target by the end of 2023. To reach this target, analysts believe the Federal Reserve will need to raise rates by another 2 to 2.5 percent before then.
Are we in a recession?
Although government officials, consumers and business owners are concerned about the prospect of a recession, the United States hasn’t entered a true recession yet. A recession is characterized by rising levels of unemployment, lower retail sales and negative growth of the gross domestic product (GDP), among other factors.
In July 2022, the Bureau of Economic Analysis reported that the U.S. GDP declined by 1.6 percent in the first quarter of the year and 0.9 percent in the second quarter. Although GDP declined, retail sales increased by 1 percent between May and June 2022. The unemployment rate also fell from 5.4 percent in July 2021 to 3.5 percent in 2022. Therefore, the United States doesn’t yet meet all the criteria for an economic recession.
Where is inflation the worst in the United States?
In the United States, cities tend to have higher inflation rates than suburbs and rural areas, due in part to their higher housing costs. On July 13, 2022, Bloomberg reported that several American cities had crossed the 10 percent mark. Urban Alaska is at 12.4 percent, the Phoenix-Mesa-Scottsdale metro area in Arizona is at 12.3 percent and the Atlanta-Sandy Springs-Roswell metro area in Georgia is at 11.5 percent. Baltimore, Seattle, Houston and Miami also have inflation rates above 10 percent.
Inflation isn’t quite as bad in the New York-Newark-Jersey City metropolitan area, which had a 6.7 percent inflation rate in June 2022. Overall, inflation tends to be higher in the South and Midwest regions than it is in the Northeast region of the United States.
How will inflation affect my 2022 and 2023 taxes?
Take a look at the top ways your upcoming taxes might be affected by inflation.
Taxable income
Federal tax brackets are adjusted for inflation, which means you may drop to a lower tax bracket in 2022 even if your income doesn’t decrease. If high rates of inflation persist, you may get the same tax benefit when you file your 2023 return.
The standard deduction is also adjusted for inflation, so high inflation rates may help you reduce your taxable income even more than in previous years. In 2021, the standard deduction for a single filer was $12,550; for the 2022 tax year, it’s $12,950. If the economy doesn’t cool down quickly, the standard deduction may be even higher in 2023.
Health savings accounts
The annual HSA contribution limit is adjusted for inflation, so high rates of inflation allow you to put aside more money for medical expenses each year. The limits have already been increased for 2022, allowing individuals to contribute $3,650 per year and families to contribute $7,300 per year. In 2023, the limits will increase even more, to $3,850 for individuals and $7,750 for families.
HSA contributions are deducted on a pre-tax basis, so higher contribution limits may leave you with less taxable income, reducing your tax burden.
Retirement contributions
High levels of inflation can even help you save a little more money for your retirement. The contribution limits for 401(k) accounts and individual retirement arrangements (IRAs) are adjusted for inflation, so you can typically save more when inflation is high. For 2022, the 401(k) contribution limit is $20,500, an increase from the $19,500 limit for 2021. The IRA contribution limit didn’t increase for 2022, but it may go up in 2023 if the inflation rate continues to be high.
Although you can’t save more in your IRA this year, the income limit for 2022 was increased to keep up with inflation. As a result, you can now participate in a Roth IRA if your income doesn’t exceed $144,000 ($214,000 for married couples filing jointly).
Social Security
If you have combined income of more than $25,000 in a year as a single filer, your Social Security benefits are subject to federal income taxes; the limit increases to $32,000 for married couples filing jointly. Combined income includes half your Social Security benefits, your adjusted gross income and your tax-exempt interest income. These income limits aren’t adjusted for inflation, but Social Security benefits are.
For 2022, the federal government implemented a 5.9 percent cost-of-living increase for Social Security beneficiaries, and the 2023 adjustment could be as high as 10 percent, or even slightly more—we’ll know for sure in October 2022. This increase could push your combined income above the $25,000/$32,000 limit, making your Social Security benefits taxable for the first time.
Capital gains taxes
When you sell certain assets, you must pay capital gains tax on your profit. If you sell when inflation is high, you could end up with a profit on paper even if the sale results in a real loss. This typically happens when high rates of inflation erode your purchasing power over time.
If you made a $100,000 investment in 1980 and sold it for $200,000 today, it would look like you made a profit of $100,000. The truth is that $100,000 in 1980 dollars is equivalent to about $359,600 today. Although you made a profit on paper, you really lost a significant amount of purchasing power. Unless you qualified for some type of exemption, you’d have to pay capital gains tax since the purchase price of assets isn’t adjusted for inflation.
How can I save money while inflation is high?
You can’t control the national economy, but there are a few things you can do to strengthen your financial position while inflation is high.
Eat more meatless meals. Meat, poultry and eggs are among the food products with the highest price increases in 2022. To lessen the effects of rising costs on your budget, try adding a few meatless meals to your weekly menu.
Track your spending. If you don’t keep track of your spending, it’s easy to spend much more than you realize. Keep a record of how much you spend on necessities as well as extras like streaming subscriptions and movie tickets.
Start meal planning. If you spot a good deal at the grocery store, you can take advantage by planning several meals around that ingredient. For example, if a store is advertising chicken for $2.49 per pound, you may want to plan on eating chicken salad sandwiches for lunch each day that week.
Cancel unused subscriptions: In June 2022, Sarah O’Brien of CNBC reported that more than 40 percent of consumers were paying for at least one subscription they didn’t use. Unused subscriptions leave you with less money in your pocket, so canceling them can help you weather this period of high inflation.
Maintain a high credit score. When you have good credit, you typically qualify for lower interest rates and other favorable loan terms. If you have to borrow money while inflation is high, maintaining a healthy score can help you save money.
Keep the faith
Inflation makes it a little tougher to meet your financial goals, but that doesn’t mean you should give up on managing your finances responsibly. You can save money by tracking your spending, canceling unused subscriptions and planning your meals according to what foods are on sale each week.
Maintaining good credit can help you save money in the long run if you have to take out a loan or otherwise buy on credit. If your credit is lower than you’d like it to be, work with the credit repair consultants at Lexington Law to identify inaccurate negative items on your credit reports and make sure outdated information isn’t being held against you.
Note: Articles have only been reviewed by the indicated attorney, not written by them. The information provided on this website does not, and is not intended to, act as legal, financial or credit advice; instead, it is for general informational purposes only. Use of, and access to, this website or any of the links or resources contained within the site do not create an attorney-client or fiduciary relationship between the reader, user, or browser and website owner, authors, reviewers, contributors, contributing firms, or their respective agents or employers.
Reviewed By
Brittany Sifontes
Attorney
Prior to joining Lexington, Brittany practiced a mix of criminal law and family law.
Brittany began her legal career at the Maricopa County Public Defender’s Office, and then moved into private practice. Brittany represented clients with charges ranging from drug sales, to sexual related offenses, to homicides. Brittany appeared in several hundred criminal court hearings, including felony and misdemeanor trials, evidentiary hearings, and pretrial hearings. In addition to criminal cases, Brittany also represented persons and families in a variety of family court matters including dissolution of marriage, legal separation, child support, paternity, parenting time, legal decision-making (formerly “custody”), spousal maintenance, modifications and enforcement of existing orders, relocation, and orders of protection. As a result, Brittany has extensive courtroom experience. Brittany attended the University of Colorado at Boulder for her undergraduate degree and attended Arizona Summit Law School for her law degree. At Arizona Summit Law school, Brittany graduated Summa Cum Laude and ranked 11th in her graduating class.
If you have an 810 credit score, congratulations. The score is considered excellent and could help you qualify for loans with more favorable terms or premium rewards credit cards.
Let’s take a closer look at what an 810 credit score means and some different strategies that could help boost your credit score.
What Is a Credit Score?
A credit score is a three-digit number that reflects a consumer’s creditworthiness, or ability to pay back loans in a timely manner. Scores range from 300 to 850. Generally speaking, the higher the credit score, the better you tend to appear to a potential lender.
The two most popular credit scoring models are FICO and VantageScore. To calculate your score, both use credit history information provided by the three major credit bureaus: Experian, TransUnion, and Equifax.
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Track your credit score for free. Sign up and get $10.*
Reasons to Care About Credit Scores
There are several reasons why a good credit score is essential to your financial health. Here are three to keep in mind.
It can increase your chances of being approved for a loan
The higher your credit score, the more likely lenders will approve loan or credit card applications. Whether it’s to purchase a house, buy a car or private student loans, having access to loans can help you achieve some big financial goals. Note that some banks may also run credit checks before issuing you an account.
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You may have access to better loan rates and terms
Lenders are more likely to offer consumers with better credit scores lower interest rates and more favorable terms because they’ve proven they pay back their loans on time. A higher credit score may also get you access to other types of products such as premium rewards credit cards.
You could save money
When you move into a new home, the utility company or your landlord may check your credit score to determine how much of a security deposit you’ll need to put down. Typically, the lower your score, the higher your deposit. Though the money is often refundable, it’s usually held in a third-party account that you won’t have access to. Potential employers may also run a credit check before you’re offered a job.
Recommended: Everything About Tri-Merge Credit Reports and How They Work
Is an 810 Credit Score Considered Good or Bad?
An 810 credit score is considered very good. In fact, just 21% of consumers in the U.S. have a credit score of 800 or higher. By comparison, the national average credit score is 714, according to Experian.
What Does an 810 Credit Score Mean?
Having an 810 credit score means you’ve proven through your credit behavior that you are likely to pay back loans on time. As mentioned above, a score of 800 or above places you in the top tier of consumers.
You are also considered to be in the “exceptional” range for your FICO score and “superprime” for your VantageScore. This means lenders are more likely to approve you for loans and offer you access to products such as loans with lower interest rates and premium credit cards. Landlords and utility companies may also ask for a lower security deposit amount (if at all).
How to Build Credit
Looking to build your credit? You have several avenues to explore. Below are a few to consider. Note that there’s no one-size-fits-all solution, so it’s a good idea to research all the options available to you.
Use a Credit Card
Even if you’re just starting out in your career or only have fair credit, you may still be able to be approved for a credit card. For instance, you can open a credit card that’s specifically for college students. Or you may want to consider a secured credit card, where you pay a refundable security deposit that acts as your credit line.
Whatever purchases and payments you make on the card are reported to the three major credit bureaus. This in turn helps to establish your credit history.
Become an Authorized User
An authorized user means that your name will be put on someone else’s credit card account. You can use the credit card much like the primary cardholder can, though this person is ultimately responsible for ensuring the minimum payments are paid on time.
If the primary cardholder has a good credit score, then their positive credit history may be added to yours.
Add Monthly Bills to Your Credit Report
Some free credit monitoring services will report your utility and rent payments to your credit report. Doing so can help build your credit history. Even if there is a small fee involved, it may be worth using for a few months, depending on your financial situation.
Recommended: How to Read and Understand Your Credit Report
Take Out a Credit Builder Loan
Credit builder loans are designed to help borrowers who are looking to build their credit. They’re similar to a personal loan, except you don’t initially receive the loan proceeds. Instead, the money will be held in a separate savings account until you pay off the loan. Meanwhile, your payment activity will be reported to the credit bureaus.
How Long Does It Take to Build Credit?
It can take several months for you to establish and build credit. This is because credit scoring models need enough information from your credit history in order to assess your creditworthiness.
As you work on building your credit, do your best to practice good financial habits, such as making on-time payments.
Credit Score Tips
Even if you have an excellent credit score, it’s a good idea to keep up good credit behavior. This includes:
• Consistently making on-time payments
• Keeping your credit utilization, or the percentage of the available limit you’re using on revolving credit accounts, as low as possible
• Avoiding applying for too many new loan or credit accounts at once
• Keeping your longest credit card or loan account open
• Regularly monitoring your credit score
• Checking your credit history and immediately disputing any errors you find
How to Check Your Credit Score
Wondering how to find out your credit score for free? You have several options. The first is your credit card statement. Many credit card issuers provide customers with a complimentary look at their score. To find it, you may need to log into your account or check your monthly credit card statement.
Another option is to use credit score monitoring tools; some are free, others require a payment. Before opening an account, compare each tool to see which one best serves your needs.
The Takeaway
It’s good news if you have an 810 credit score and a sign that you have a track record of paying back your loans. A good score may help improve your access to loans with better terms or premium or luxury credit cards. If you want to improve your score — or just maintain it — you can try practicing good financial habits, like consistently making on-time payments, keeping tabs on your credit score, and disputing any errors.
If you need help managing your spending and saving, consider using a money tracker app. The SoFi Insights app connects all of your accounts in one convenient dashboard. From there, you can see all of your balances, spending breakdowns, and credit score monitoring, plus you can get other valuable financial insights.
Stay up to date on your finances by seeing exactly how your money comes and goes.
FAQ
What is a decent credit score for a 23-year-old?
Chances are, at 23 you’re probably still building your credit. According to Experian data, the average credit score for people aged 18 to 25 is 679. If yours is higher, then it’s considered above average.
What is the highest credit score possible in 2023?
The highest credit score you can achieve is 850 for both FICO and VantageScore scoring models.
Is a credit score of 800 good at age 23?
Whether you’re 23 or not, an 800 credit score is considered excellent.
Photo credit: iStock/Makhbubakhon Ismatova
SoFi’s Insights tool offers users the ability to connect both in-house accounts and external accounts using Plaid, Inc’s service. When you use the service to connect an account, you authorize SoFi to obtain account information from any external accounts as set forth in SoFi’s Terms of Use. SoFi assumes no responsibility for the timeliness, accuracy, deletion, non-delivery or failure to store any user data, loss of user data, communications, or personalization settings. You shall confirm the accuracy of Plaid data through sources independent of SoFi. The credit score provided to you is a Vantage Score® based on TransUnion™ (the “Processing Agent”) data. *Terms and conditions apply. (Must click on the link to be eligible.) This offer is only available to new SoFi users without existing SoFi accounts. It is non-transferable. One offer per person. To receive the Rewards points offer, you must successfully complete setting up Credit Score Monitoring. Rewards points may only be redeemed into SoFi accounts such as cash in SoFi Checking and Savings or loan balances, Stock Bits, fractional shares and cryptocurrency subject to program terms that may be found here: SoFi Member Rewards Terms and Conditions. SoFi reserves the right to modify or discontinue this offer at any time without notice.
Financial Tips & Strategies: The tips provided on this website are of a general nature and do not take into account your specific objectives, financial situation, and needs. You should always consider their appropriateness given your own circumstances. Third-Party Brand Mentions: No brands, products, or companies mentioned are affiliated with SoFi, nor do they endorse or sponsor this article. Third-party trademarks referenced herein are property of their respective owners. Disclaimer: Many factors affect your credit scores and the interest rates you may receive. SoFi is not a Credit Repair Organization as defined under federal or state law, including the Credit Repair Organizations Act. SoFi does not provide “credit repair” services or advice or assistance regarding “rebuilding” or “improving” your credit record, credit history, or credit rating. For details, see the FTC’s website . Checking Your Rates: To check the rates and terms you may qualify for, SoFi conducts a soft credit pull that will not affect your credit score. However, if you choose a product and continue your application, we will request your full credit report from one or more consumer reporting agencies, which is considered a hard credit pull and may affect your credit. SORL0423008
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Have you checked the mortgage interest rates lately?
If you’ve got excellent credit you can get mortgage loans with interest rates near or below 3.5%, assuming your income and collateral are also in good shape.
Add that to a still recovering real estate market and now might be the time to pull the trigger on a home loan.
The Mortgage Loan Application Process is Unique
First off, borrowing money to buy a house will likely represent the largest financial liability you’ll ever have.
Second, managing a mortgage is unlike the management of any of type of loan due to property taxes, insurance, and impounds.
Finally, unlike a credit card, auto loan, or any other type of credit application process, the mortgage loan application process is unique.
Normally when you apply for a credit card or auto loan, the lender will pull one of your credit reports accompanied by one of your credit scores. They’ll then use that information as a basis for their decision about your application.
They almost never attempt to pull your other two credit reports and scores.
Mortgage lenders, however, almost always pull all three of your credit reports and your three credit scores as part of their standard loan application process.
And, if you are applying with another person, the mortgage lender will pull all three of their credit reports and credit scores as well.
This unique process yields a great deal of information. The aggregate leaves the lender with six credit reports and six credit scores.
Normally, the mortgage lender will “use” the middle numeric scores as to base their decision. That might solve the credit score issue, but it doesn’t solve the credit report issue.
Six credit reports, especially belonging to older applicants, can be overwhelming.
What is a Residential Mortgage Credit Report?
Normally a non-mortgage lender will simply go directly to a credit bureau and pull a report. But, in the mortgage world there’s an intermediary party referred to as a mortgage reporting company.
These companies pull the applicant’s credit reports on behalf of the lender/mortgage broker and then consolidate the information into one easy to read file.
This report is called an “RMCR” or Residential Mortgage Credit Report. They are also informally referred to as “Tri-merges.”
The information is merged, but more often it is done cosmetically, meaning your credit reports don’t really magically become combined with that of your co-applicant. Tri-merges are very easy to read as the mortgage reporting company will reorganize the information.
All of the scores go in one section. All of the positive information goes in one section– and yes all of the bad information goes in one section too.
Why Do Mortgage Lenders Need All Three Credit Reports?
There’s actually a very good reason mortgage lenders pull all three of your credit reports. First off, because of the amount of money being lent, the lender or funding source (Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac) requires that no credit stone be left unturned.
Credit reports, while considerably redundant, are rarely identical across the three credit reporting agencies. Pulling three reports all but guarantees the lender will see all of your financial liabilities, while pulling just one does not.
Additionally, you won’t have three identical credit scores. Pulling all three of your scores (or all six if you have a co-applicant) is a conservative approach to risk assessment.
It gives the lender a choice to base their decision on the applicant’s highest score, lowest score, or middle score. The middle score approach has been around for roughly 15 years, give or take.
How the Additional Inquiries Affect Your Credit
Don’t worry about the inquiry times three. Mortgage inquiries are among the least problematic to your scores and are considerably discounted by FICO’s scoring system.
In fact, the first 30 days on your credit file mortgage inquiries are ignored. That gives you the ability to shop around for the best rate without being worried about any negative score impact.
Happy house hunting!
John Ulzheimer is the President of Consumer Education at SmartCredit.com, the credit blogger for Mint.com, and a contributor for the National Foundation for Credit Counseling. He is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring and identity theft. Formerly of FICO, Equifax and Credit.com, John is the only recognized credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. The opinions expressed in his articles are his and not of Mint.com or Intuit. Follow John on Twitter.
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File this story under the “Why Can’t Credit Scoring Be Less Complicated.”
I received the following question from a Minter a couple of weeks ago and couldn’t wait to write an article answering his question.
“John, last week I went to a car dealership to buy a new truck. I went on the test drive, really liked the truck and asked the dealer if they could get me a better interest rate than by credit union, which was offering me a great rate for 48 months. When the manager showed me my credit report I noticed that the FICO score that was used was some sort of auto credit score. I asked the guy what that meant and he was clueless. What gives?”
The FICO Auto Industry Option
What gives is that most auto lenders that use FICO credit scores use a different variety of FICO score called the “FICO Auto Industry Option” score. Let’s call it the FICO Auto Score, for short.
FICO develops a variety of credit scores including these semi-customized scores referred to as Industry Option scores. These scores are used by lenders in the auto, credit card, and installment industries, which pretty much covers everyone.
Here’s How They Work
Stop thinking like a consumer and start thinking like a lender, just for a moment.
If you are an auto lender do you really care how an applicant is paying their mortgage loan or their credit card bills?
You probably do, but not nearly as much as you care about how they’re paying their auto loans.
Well, you’re not the only one who thinks that way. FICO has built an entire stable of these credit score variants specifically for different loan types.
There are auto specific scores, bankcard specific scores, mortgage specific scores, installment specific scores and personal finance specific scores…all on the market today.
The choice of which score to use is one made by the lender.
Because you’re asking about the FICO Auto score we’ll focus on that one. The FICO auto score calculates your base or generic FICO score, and then holds on to it in credit score limbo.
Then, using what’s technically referred to as a “scorecard overlay” the FICO auto score takes a second bite at the apple and re-evaluates the consumer’s credit report but this time focuses on attributes that are especially important for auto loan risk evaluations.
For example, do you have other auto loans on your credit report?
If so, are those loans paid on time or are you missing payments? These are specifics that tell an expanded story about how you’re likely to pay an auto loan rather than simply “any” loan.
How Different are the Two Scores?
Don’t get me wrong, your auto score isn’t going to be wildly different than your generic FICO score.
You’d be safe to assume that the two score varieties will be within plus or minus 15 to 20 points, but that can vary. Of course this is all academic if you’ve got fantastic credit reports.
Those are going to yield a great credit score regardless of the score type.
This rule is going to hold true not only for FICO’s generic score, but also their industry specific scores.
And, it’s going to hold true for every other credit scoring system on the market, like the VantageScore credit score, which I wrote about for Mint here.
It’s also going to hold true for the free scores available from the variety of websites that give them away, like www.CreditSesame.com. The better your credit reports the better your scores, regardless.
Unlike sites that allow you to check your credit report for free, FICO’s industry specific scores are not available to consumers on any website for any price.
In order to get those you’ll just have to keep relying on the Finance and Insurance Manager at the local auto dealership.
John Ulzheimer is the President of Consumer Education at SmartCredit.com, the credit blogger for Mint.com, and a contributor for the National Foundation for Credit Counseling. He is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring and identity theft. Formerly of FICO, Equifax and Credit.com, John is the only recognized credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. The opinions expressed in his articles are his and not of Mint.com or Intuit. Follow John on Twitter.
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One of the rights afforded to us under the Fair Credit Reporting Act is the ability to challenge information on our credit reports with which we do not agree. I addressed several methods of disputing credit entries in this Mint article.
The credit dispute process is free and normally takes less than a month. There is some confusion, however, about the impact a credit dispute can have on your credit scores. In this post, we’ll cover what happens when you dispute a credit report, how a credit dispute impacts your credit score, what is disputable, and how you can do so.
When Can I Dispute a Credit Report?
When you file a dispute with the credit reporting agencies, they are required by the Fair Credit Reporting Act to show that the item is “in dispute.” They accomplish this by placing the code “XB” on the offensive credit entry.
The XB code is what’s referred to in my world as a “Compliance Condition Code.” When it’s placed in your credit report, it reads as “Consumer disputes, investigation in process” or some derivative of that wording.
Essentially, it means that the credit bureaus received your dispute and are actively investigating the information.
The Impact of “XB”
When the XB code is present on an account, a public record, or a collection, credit scoring systems treat it differently than they would if the account was not actively in dispute.
This is where the confusion comes from. The FICO score will not allow an item that is actively being disputed to harm your score. How does it accomplish this?
FICO will not consider an item with the XB code present for either its Payment History or Debt related measurements. So, if you have a credit card account with late payments and you’re disputing those late payments, the FICO score will choose not to consider those late payments. And, if you have a credit card account with a large balance and you’re disputing the balance, the FICO score will not consider the balance.
So, does disputing a credit report hurt your score? No. The act of disputing items on your credit report does not hurt your score. However, the outcome of the dispute could cause your score to adjust. If the “negative” item is verified to be correct, for example, your score might take a dip. Note: this dip is not because the dispute was proven inaccurate, but because the XB code is taken off. Alternatively, if the disputed item is proven to be inaccurate, this could raise your credit score.
The fact that the FICO score is temporarily ignoring these items can cause your scores to be higher. Having said that, the score improvement is temporary and can’t be used to “game” the system.
What happens if the disputed item is found to be accurate?
If the item has been verified as accurate, then the credit bureaus are no longer investigating it. That means the credit bureaus will remove the “in dispute” label by removing the XB code.
Once the XB code is gone, then the item is fair game in the eyes of FICO because it has been verified and is, arguably, accurate.
This process isn’t news, and lenders also know about it, which is why you can’t just go and dispute everything that’s bad on your credit reports, have your FICO scores shoot through the roof, and then go apply for a loan.
Most lenders, especially mortgage lenders, require that all items DO NOT have the “in dispute” label before they process an application to closing. They realize the score that has been calculated is likely not the consumer’s most accurate score because the model is ignoring certain aspects of the credit report.
And FICO isn’t the only scoring system that has this specialized treatment of items that are currently being investigated. If you check your credit score using the VantageScore model, you may run into a similar situation.
According to Sarah Davies, Vice President of Analytics and Product Management at VantageScore Solutions, “While an account is documented as ‘Account information disputed by consumer under the Fair Credit Reporting Act (XB)’, it is temporarily excluded from consideration by the VantageScore model.”
What if the item is still being disputed?
If you were not successful getting the offensive credit entry removed or changed, then you can still have it shown as being “in dispute” for as long as it remains on your credit reports. But, that is not the same as an item that’s in dispute AND being investigated.
That is to say, lenders will still likely consider the item when evaluating your credit score since the XB code has been removed.
If you still disagree with an item you can have a label added to your credit reports showing as much. But, that’s not going to cause the score to reflect that label for Payment History and Debt measurements.
How to Dispute a Charge on Your Credit Report
If, after reviewing what happens when you dispute a credit report, you decide it could be the right course of action for you, here’s how you can get the ball rolling.
Step One: Obtain a recent copy of your credit report
In order to dispute an item on your credit report, you’ll need to prove to the powers that be that your credit report is inaccurate. To do so, you’ll want to have a copy of your credit report handy. Consumers are entitled to one free credit report each year from each of the three main credit reporting agencies, which you can access through AnnualCreditReport.com. Or if you’re a Mint user, you can easily view your credit score in the Mint app whenever you please!
Once you’ve got your credit report in front of you, pull out that red pen of yours and notate any items on the report that are inaccurate or with which you do not agree.
reasons to dispute items on credit report to help you decide if it’s worth a shot:
There is incorrect personal information on your credit report, such as your name or Social Security Number
There is a negative item that is beyond the statute of limitations for reporting
The report shows that you carry a debt balance which you have already settled
There is duplicate information shown on your credit report
You have a duplicate credit report or mixed information for yourself and another person
There are fraudulent items on your report, like a new credit card or loan that you did not open or apply for
Step Three: Decide which credit dispute method to use
File a report with the credit bureau: This is the most common method consumers use to dispute credit reports. Each of the credit reporting bureaus—Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion—have dispute forms on their website which you can fill out.
Here’s where you can find them:
If the error appears across each of the credit bureaus’ reports, you’ll need to file a separate report for each. Each of the credit dispute processes vary slightly, but in general, you’ll need to include the dispute form with an explanation of the error(s) as well as a copy of your report with the same error(s) notated.
Report the error to the furnisher: Another method you can use to dispute a debt on your credit report is to go directly to the source—the lender, bank, credit card company, or collection agency that misreported information. When you dispute the item, the furnisher will then be required to report the dispute to each of the credit bureaus, making your job a little easier.
Takeaways
To wrap up, let’s review a few of the key takeaways we covered.
Does disputing a credit report hurt your credit score? No, credit disputes do not hurt your credit score. When an item on your report is being investigated, the credit bureaus will notate this on your credit report using “XB” code which signals to lenders that the item is under review and should not be considered in their evaluation.
Depending on the outcome of your dispute, your credit score may be adjusted to reflect the updated information. If a negative item is removed, the dispute could improve your credit score.
To dispute an item on your credit report, follow these steps:
Get a copy of your credit report
Decide whether or not you should dispute the item
File a dispute with the furnisher or the three major credit bureaus with a dispute form and a copy of your credit report
For more information of credit disputes, check out this blog to learn how to win a credit dispute.
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