No matter what age you are, it’s never too soon to start thinking about — and actively saving for — your retirement. With reports coming out regularly about the severe retirement savings gap in the U.S., it seems as though the majority of Americans are vastly underprepared for this life event.
If your employer offers a 401(k) at your place of work, this is a great way to get started (or continue) saving for your golden years. Before you jump in, find out exactly what a 401(k) is and how it can help you prepare for retirement. If you already contribute to a 401(k) plan, make sure you know what to expect when it comes time to retire.
How does a 401(k) work?
A 401(k) plan helps you save while investing your contributions in various mutual funds. Employers offer this type of retirement plan, so you can’t sign up for one unless you go through your place of work.
As an incentive to save, you receive a tax break. Depending on the type of 401(k) you choose (or your company offers), you either receive that tax break when you make the contribution or when it comes time to withdrawal.
Employer 401(k) Matching
Many employers offer a match to any contribution you make. This usually happens in one of two ways: they’ll either match dollar for dollar up to a certain limit or up to a percentage of your salary.
The most common type of 401(k), the traditional 401(k), allows you to make any contribution tax-deductible each year. So if you contribute $6,000 a year, you get to knock that off your taxable income amount. If you’re on the edge of a tax bracket and make a sizeable 401(k) contribution, you might even be able to jump down into a different bracket with a lower tax rate.
401(k) Tax Rules
While your investments continue to grow each year, they remain temporarily protected from taxation. Unlike other types of investments, you don’t pay any annual tax on your 401(k) earnings until you start to make withdrawals. At that point, you’ll be subject to regular income tax when you take out money each month.
As you continue to make 401(k) contributions throughout your year, you can adjust your investments to become increasingly less volatile. The idea is that as you get closer to retirement age, you have less risk to ensure a solid nest egg when you need it.
The Benefits of a 401(k)
A 401(k) is a retirement savings plan sponsored by an employer. It allows employees to save and invest a portion of their paycheck before taxes are taken out. Contributions to a 401(k) are made with pretax dollars, which can lower your taxable income in the current year and potentially result in a lower tax bill.
Some other benefits of a 401(k) include:
Employer matching contributions: Many employers will match a portion of their employees’ 401(k) contributions, effectively giving you free money to save for retirement.
Tax-deferred growth: Any investment earnings on your 401(k) account grow tax-free until you withdraw the money in retirement.
Potential for tax credits: Depending on your income and participation in a 401(k) or other qualified retirement plan, you may be eligible for certain tax credits that can help reduce your tax liability.
Retirement income: A 401(k) can provide a source of income in retirement, which can help you maintain your standard of living when you are no longer working.
Convenience: Many 401(k) plans offer a range of investment options, and the contributions are automatically deducted from your paycheck, making it easy to save for the future.
The money you withdraw from a 401(k) in retirement is subject to income tax, and 401(k) plans have contribution limits. However, overall, a 401(k) can be a valuable tool for saving for the future and reducing your tax liability.
401(k) Contribution Limits
There are limits to your 401(k):
While it’s a great financial tool, you can only contribute up to $22,500 each year, amounting to $1,875 per month if you divide it out monthly. If you’re over the age of 50, you’re allowed to contribute up to $30,000 a year ($2,500 per month). These contribution limits are in place so that you can only benefit from so much tax savings each year.
Required Minimum Distributions
Another rule associated with a 401(k) is that you must start taking “required minimum distributions” at some point. That means once you hit a certain age, you must begin withdrawing funds from your 401(k) account — and paying taxes on them.
Currently, the requirement is that you start taking distributions the year after you turn 70 ½. Then you have to take out distributions by December 31 of each following year. Your minimum required amount is determined by the IRS based on your life expectancy. There’s nothing quite like a government tax agency predicting your lifespan, is there?
Still, this information helps you determine what kind of tax burden you can expect when you’ve finally retired. While your income may be lower, your deductions might be as well. After all, you probably don’t have kids left at home to claim as a deduction. And if you’ve paid off your mortgage, you won’t have that interest to deduct either.
It’s great not to have those expenses, but it can be helpful to talk to a tax professional to get a better idea of your taxes, especially in that first year of retirement or required minimum distributions. The more prepared you are, the more financial flexibility you can have!
401(K) Plan Types
There are two main types of 401(k) plans: traditional 401(k)s and Roth 401(k)s.
A traditional 401(k) allows you to contribute pretax dollars to your account. Your contributions and any investment earnings in the account are tax-deferred. This means you won’t have to pay taxes on them until you withdraw the money in retirement. When you withdraw the money in retirement, it is taxed as ordinary income.
A Roth 401(k) is similar to a traditional 401(k), but contributions are made with after-tax dollars. This means you won’t get an immediate tax break on your contributions, but qualified withdrawals from the account in retirement are tax-free.
Some 401(k) plans may offer both traditional and Roth options, allowing you the flexibility to choose the type of plan that best meets your needs.
There are also types of 401(k) plans that are designed for specific types of employers, such as safe harbor 401(k)s and SIMPLE 401(k)s. These plans may have different contribution limits and rules for employer matching contributions. So, it’s important to understand the details of the plan you are enrolled in.
What’s the difference between a traditional 401(k) and a Roth 401(k)?
While a traditional 401(k) offers upfront tax savings in return for taxes paid later during retirement, a Roth 401(k) flips the situation around. Instead, your contributions are made with your taxable income. In return, you don’t have to pay any taxes when you start withdrawing from your account during retirement.
While you miss out on tax savings upfront, you’re only paying on the original contribution amount. If you had to pay taxes when you withdraw, you’re also paying taxes on everything you’ve earned, which is hopefully a lot more money than you started with.
Roth 401(k) Requirements
There are requirements to qualify for the Roth 401(k) benefits:
First, your account must be open for at least five years. You also have to wait until you’re at least 59 ½ before you can start taking distributions, unless you’ve had a disability.
A Roth IRA is particularly useful if you’ve accumulated a lot in retirement savings and other investments. While many people have less income when they retire, that’s not always the case. You may have a comprehensive portfolio of investments, in which case you could be better served by not paying taxes on at least part of your withdrawals.
If you’re nearing retirement and expect to drop in your tax bracket soon, there may be no sense in using a Roth 401(k) now. A Roth 401(k) can be a great choice if you have a lower income now because you’re earlier in your career or have tons of tax deductions because of kids and a mortgage.
Like all retirement plans, there are better products for different points in your life. By constantly reassessing how you contribute to your retirement savings, you can maximize your tax benefits now and in the future.
See also: IRA vs. 401(k): Where Should You Invest Your Money?
Employer Contribution Match
An employer contribution match is a feature of some 401(k) plans in which the employer agrees to contribute a certain amount of money to an employee’s 401(k) account based on employee contributions.
For example, an employer might offer a 50% employer match on the first 6% of an employee’s salary that the employee contributes to their 401(k) account. In this case, if the employee contributes 6% of their salary to their 401(k), the employer would contribute an additional 3% (50% of the employee’s contribution).
Employer contributions are a way for employers to encourage their employees to save for retirement and to provide an additional source of retirement income for their employees. Employers may also use contribution matching as a way to attract and retain top talent.
Employer contribution matches may have certain rules and requirements, such as vesting periods, that determine when an employee becomes fully entitled to employer contributions. Make sure you understand the details of any employer contribution match offered by your employer to make the most of this benefit.
What happens if you leave your job?
Don’t worry. You don’t lose your 401(k) savings if you leave your current employer. You typically have a few different options available to you. First, you can leave it in the company plan if they allow it. You won’t be able to continue making contributions or any changes to your allocations. But you can access it when you’re ready to retire.
401(k) Rollover
Or you can do a rollover:
A rollover allows you to switch the funds to another retirement plan without paying any tax penalties. You can either do an IRA rollover or use a plan from your new employer. You do need to make sure your new employer’s plan allows for rollovers.
Then you can continue your contributions as normal, following the rules of the new account, whatever it may be. An IRA is always a viable option because you’re in control of how you invest. And while the annual contribution limit is $6,500 (or $7,500 if you’re 50 or older), it doesn’t count when you’re rolling over funds.
Your final option for handling your 401(k) when you leave your job is to cash it out. If you do this, you’ll be subject to all the relevant penalties. These include a 10% early withdrawal penalty and income taxes for both federal and state. The exception to the early withdrawal penalty is if you are at least 55 years old when you leave your employer.
How much should you contribute to your 401(k)?
How much you decide to contribute to your 401(k) should depend on numerous factors. At the very least, you should contribute the maximum amount allowed to receive a matching contribution from your employer. That essentially equals free money, which you should never pass up.
Next, think about your financial picture as a whole. What kind of debt do you have? If you have any high-interest credit card or loan balances, you may want to focus your efforts on paying those down before contributing more to your retirement plan. Lower interest debts, like a fixed student loan, may not be as pressing to repay.
Furthermore, consider these recommended saving strategies:
Emergency Fund
You’ll probably want a three to six-month emergency fund in case you lose your job or get a sudden illness or injury. Having a large chunk of money stashed away in an easy-to-access savings account can provide you with financial security here and now.
Roth IRA
Once you’ve got your overall savings plan in order, it’s time to start figuring out where else to invest for retirement. Before you max out your traditional 401(k), think about picking up a Roth IRA. This helps you diversify your retirement plans for tax purposes.
Like a Roth 401(k), a Roth IRA lets you pay taxes on your contributions now, so you don’t have to pay anything when you make withdrawals during retirement. It can certainly help you spread out your tax burdens over the course of your life.
Still have money left over to invest?
If you do, revisit your 401(k). Remember, you can contribute up to $22,500 so you can certainly divert more of your income towards that maximum.
How else should you prepare for retirement?
Preparing for retirement takes a constant reassessment of your current needs versus your future goals. As easy as it is to say, “You need to contribute this-many-thousands of dollars a year to survive retirement,” the reality is that it’s much harder to actually do that.
But saving for retirement is still a challenge worth conquering. Even if you’re in your 40s and haven’t started saving a dime, you can start today. Once you’ve got your current savings fund in place that you can use for emergencies, implement some of these easy tips to get ready for retirement.
For now, worry less about picking the perfect type of account and focus on the habit of retirement saving.
Here are some ideas to get you started:
How to Save Extra Money:
Downsize your living expenses, one step at a time.
Place your tax refund into a retirement account.
Stream television instead of paying for cable.
Cut back on eating out.
Stay healthy to reduce future healthcare costs.
Pay down high interest debt like credit cards.
Sell your stuff and put the money towards retirement.
How to Strategically Manage Your Retirement Accounts:
Create a retirement savings goal as a percentage of your income.
Pay yourself first by setting up auto direct deposit to your retirement account on payday.
Take advantage of higher IRA contribution limits when you’re 50+.
Audit your accounts every year.
Consolidate multiple accounts (like IRAs) to reduce fees.
Put your end-of-year bonus into a retirement account.
Bottom Line
Investing in your retirement is really investing in yourself. Taking advantage of your employer’s 401(k) is an important part of the equation. In addition to making regular contributions, be sure to explore all of your options for financing your retirement. A healthy portfolio mix isn’t difficult to develop, and there are plenty of resources available to help you get started.
After a few real-life conversations and my running the math, I’ve decided that a “50/50” rule for college saving achieves the best of both worlds.
The rule is:
~50% of your college savings goals should be saved via a 529 plan.
The other ~50% should be saved via a taxable brokerage account.
Why is that the case? Let’s discuss what we do and don’t want from our college savings plan.
PS – if you want further background reading on 529 plans, here are some other useful articles…
What We Do and Don’t Want from College Savings
We do want to save for college. Ground-breaking stuff.
We do want to reduce our income taxes.
We do want our investments to grow tax-free.
We do want flexibility while we save, in case life throws us a curveball.
We don’t want to end up with permanently frozen assets. We don’t want “leftover” 529 dollars.
529 College Savings Plans offer some of these ideals. But not all.
In fact, 529 plans are terrible at achieving some of the abovementioned goals.
Reducing Income Taxes
Many states offer income tax deductions on 529 contributions. In New York, for example, the first $10,000 contributed to 529s per year is exempt from state tax. That’s a ~$600 annual savings (depending on tax bracket).
Tax-Free Growth
529 investments grow tax-free, just like 401(k) or IRA assets. There’s no annual tax on dividends and interest. This leaves more dollars behind to compound.
Let’s Measure That Tax Savings
If we apply these two tax advantages to a reasonable scenario**, it’s realistic to expect a 529 account to result in 15-20% more dollars for college than a taxable brokerage account.
**see this Google sheet for detail.
But taxable brokerage accounts have distinct advantages on our other ideals.
Flexibility & “Frozen” Assets
Taxable accounts are very flexible. You can withdraw from them anytime (e.g. during an unexpected emergency). 529 dollars, on the other hand, must be spent on educational expenses and cannot be withdrawn for other reasons.
What if your kid decides to skip college? Unused funds in a 529 can be impossible to withdraw without taxes and penalties. Taxable accounts avoid this situation.
What’s the 529 Withdrawal Penalty?
Every 529 withdrawal—whether for education purposes or not—is made pro rata between your contributions and your earnings. The contributions are never taxed and never penalized, but the earnings can be if your withdrawal is not for a qualified educational expense.
For example:
Your 529 plan has $100,000 of contributions and $50,000 of earnings. (Two-thirds and one-third)
You make a $30,000 withdrawal. You have no choice in that $20,000 will come from contributions and $10,000 will come from earnings (Two-thirds and one-third)
If your withdrawal is not for qualified education expenses, the $10,000 earnings portion will be taxed as income (more marginal tax dollars, ouch!) and will suffer a 10% penalty.
If you run the math, you’ll see this penalty eats away at all the 529’s tax benefits. You do not want to suffer this penalty.
Finding Balance Between 529 and Taxable
The question is how to balance these various pros and cons. The 50/50 Rule does so!
Let’s say you aim to gift your children $100,000 over their four years of college. How generous! I submit you should aim to have:
$50,000 of that gift coming from a 529
And $50,000 from a taxable brokerage
You know it won’t be a perfectly ideal scenario. Whatever reality throws at you, you’ll wish you had decided to go all-in on the 529 or all-in on the taxable.
But you don’t know the future! This fact – that we’re more mortals without a crystal ball – is one of the fundamental frustrations in financial planning. If we knew the future, we could make a perfect financial plan. But we don’t, so we can’t. Our best solutions, therefore, involve hedging our bets. We’d rather know we’re 50% correct than be surprised later we’re 100% wrong.
The 50/50 Rule guarantees a middle-of-the-road solution. You’ll capture tax benefits and retain flexibility.
If Johnny gets a little scholarship and only needs 70% of your saved money, great! Use the 529 dollars completely. Dip into the taxable account when needed, and keep the remaining taxable dollars for other goals in life. You’ll be confident your 529 account will be completely drained, avoiding frustrating taxes and penalties.
Does It Have to Be 50/50?
I’ll admit: dividing the two accounts down the middle, 50/50, is an easy shorthand. You can choose a different fraction. But when thinking it through, my primary concerns are:
You need to be confident you’ll drain the 529s. If Johnny’s college will cost $200,000 and you aim to have all $200,000 in a 529, I don’t like that. There’s no margin for error.
You want to have a large enough portion in the taxable account to provide “just in case” flexibility.
Maybe 75/25 makes more sense for you. I can get on board with that. But I wouldn’t go much higher than 75% from the 529.
Working Backward
You can work backward from your future goal to discover what today’s saving rates need to be. In our hypothetical scenario of $50K in a 529 and $50K in a taxable (for college in ~15 years, we’ll say), a reasonable starting point is to put $2000 per year (or ~$170 per month) into each account. That’s how the math shakes out.
Depending on your timeline and assumed rate of compound growth, a simple spreadsheet or question to your financial planner will inform what your savings plan should be.
Thank you for reading! If you enjoyed this article, join 8000+ subscribers who read my 2-minute weekly email, where I send you links to the smartest financial content I find online every week.
-Jesse
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The VA home loan: Unbeatable benefits for veterans
For many who qualify, VA home loans are some of the best mortgages available.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
Backed by the U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs, VA loans are designed to help active-duty military personnel, veterans and certain other groups become homeowners at an affordable cost.
The VA loan asks for no down payment, requires no mortgage insurance, and has lenient rules about qualifying, among many other advantages.
Here’s everything you need to know about qualifying for and using a VA loan.
In this article (Skip to…)
Top 10 VA loan benefits
1. No down payment on a VA loan
Most home loan programs require you to make at least a small down payment to buy a home. The VA home loan is an exception.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
Rather than paying 5%, 10%, 20% or more of the home’s purchase price upfront in cash, with a VA loan you can finance up to 100% of the purchase price.
The VA loan is a true no-money-down home mortgage opportunity.
2. No mortgage insurance for VA loans
Typically, lenders require you to pay for mortgage insurance if you make a down payment that’s less than 20%.
This insurance — which is known as private mortgage insurance (PMI) for a conventional loan and a mortgage insurance premium (MIP) for an FHA loan — would protect the lender if you defaulted on your loan.
VA loans require neither a down payment nor mortgage insurance. That makes a VA-backed mortgage very affordable upfront and over time.
3. VA loans have a government guarantee
There’s a reason why the VA loan comes with such favorable terms.
The federal government guarantees these loans — meaning a portion of the loan amount will be repaid to the lender even if you’re unable to make monthly payments for whatever reason.
This guarantee encourages and enables private lenders to offer VA loans with exceptionally attractive terms.
4. You can shop for the best VA loan rates
VA loans are neither originated nor funded by the VA. They are not direct loans from the government. Furthermore, mortgage rates for VA loans are not set by the VA itself.
Instead, VA loans are offered by U.S. banks, savings-and-loans institutions, credit unions, and mortgage lenders — each of which sets its own VA loan rates and fees.
This means you can shop around and compare loan offers and still choose the VA loan that works best for your budget.
5. VA loans don’t allow a prepayment penalty
A VA loan won’t restrict your right to sell the property partway through your loan term.
There’s no prepayment penalty or early-exit fee no matter within what time frame you decide to sell your home.
Furthermore, there are no restrictions regarding a refinance of your VA loan.
You can refinance your existing VA loan into another VA loan via the agency’s Interest Rate Reduction Refinance Loan (IRRRL) program, or switch into a non-VA loan at any time.
6. VA mortgages come in many varieties
A VA loan can have a fixed rate or an adjustable rate. In addition, you can use a VA loan to buy a house, condo, new-built home, manufactured home, duplex, or other types of properties.
Or, it can be used for refinancing your existing mortgage, making repairs or improvements to your home, or making your home more energy-efficient.
The choice is yours. A VA-approved lender can help you decide.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
7. It’s easier to qualify for VA loans
Like all mortgage types, VA loans require specific documentation, an acceptable credit history, and sufficient income to make your monthly payments.
But, compared to other loan programs, VA loan guidelines tend to be more flexible. This is made possible because of the VA loan guarantee.
The Department of Veterans Affairs genuinely wants to make the loan process easier for military members, veterans, and qualifying military spouses to buy or refinance a home.
8. VA loan closing costs are lower
The VA limits the closing costs lenders can charge to VA loan applicants. This is another way that a VA loan can be more affordable than other types of loans.
Money saved on closing costs can be used for furniture, moving costs, home improvements, or anything else.
9. The VA offers funding fee flexibility
VA loans require a “funding fee,” an upfront cost based on your loan amount, your type of eligible service, your down payment size, and other factors.
Funding fees don’t need to be paid in cash, though. The VA allows the fee to be financed with the loan, so nothing is due at closing.
And, not all VA borrowers will pay it. VA funding fees are normally waived for veterans who receive VA disability compensation and for unmarried surviving spouses of veterans who died in service or as a result of a service-connected disability.
10. VA loans are assumable
Most VA loans are “assumable,” which means you can transfer your VA loan to a future home buyer if that person is also VA-eligible.
Assumable loans can be a huge benefit when you sell your home — especially in a rising mortgage rate environment.
If your home loan has today’s low rate and market rates rise in the future, the assumption features of your VA become even more valuable.
VA loan rates
The VA loan is viewed as one of the lowest-risk mortgage types available on the market.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
This safety allows banks to lend to veteran borrowers at lower interest rates.
Today’s VA loan rates*
Loan Type
Current Mortgage Rate
VA 30-year FRM
% (% APR)
Conventional 30-year FRM
% (% APR)
VA 15-year FRM
% (% APR)
Conventional 15-year FRM
% (% APR)
*Current rates provided daily by partners of the Mortgage Reports. See our loan assumptions here.
VA rates are more than 25 basis points (0.25%) lower than conventional rates on average, according to data collected by mortgage software company Ellie Mae.
Most loan programs require higher down payment and credit scores than the VA home loan. In the open market, a VA loan should carry a higher rate due to more lenient lending guidelines and higher perceived risk.
Yet the result of the Veterans Affairs efforts to keep veterans in their homes means lower risk for banks and lower borrowing costs for eligible veterans.
VA mortgage calculator
Eligibility
Am I eligible for a VA home loan?
Contrary to popular belief, VA loans are available not only to veterans, but also to other classes of military members.
Find and lock a low VA loan rate today. Start here
The list of eligible VA borrowers includes:
Active-duty service members
Members of the National Guard
Reservists
Surviving spouses of veterans
Cadets at the U.S. Military, Air Force or Coast Guard Academy
Midshipmen at the U.S. Naval Academy
Officers at the National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration.
A minimum term of service is typically required.
Minimum service required for a VA mortgage
VA home loans are available to active-duty service members, veterans (unless dishonorably discharged), and in some cases, surviving family members.
To be eligible, you need to meet one of these service requirements:
You’ve served 181 days of active duty during peacetime
You’ve served 90 days of active duty during wartime
You’ve served six years in the Reserves or National Guard
Your spouse was killed in the line of duty and you have not remarried
Your eligibility for the VA home loan program never expires.
Veterans who earned their VA entitlement long ago are still using their benefit to buy homes.
The VA loan Certificate of Eligibility (COE)
What is a COE?
In order to show a mortgage company you are VA-eligible, you’ll need a Certificate of Eligibility (COE). Your lender can acquire one for you online, usually in a matter of seconds.
Verify your VA home loan eligibility. Start here
How to get your COE (Certificate of Eligibility)
Getting a Certificate of Eligibility (COE) is very easy in most cases. Simply have your lender order the COE through the VA’s automated system. Any VA-approved lender can do this.
Alternatively, you can order your certificate yourself through the VA benefits portal.
If the online system is unable to issue your COE, you’ll need to provide your DD-214 form to your lender or the VA.
Does a COE mean you are guaranteed a VA loan?
No, having a Certificate of Eligibility (COE) doesn’t guarantee a VA loan approval.
Your COE shows the lender you’re eligible for a VA loan, but no one is guaranteed VA loan approval.
You must still qualify for the loan based on VA mortgage guidelines. The guarantee part of the VA loan refers to the VA’s promise to the lender of repayment if the borrower defaults.
Qualifying for a VA mortgage
VA loan eligibility vs. qualification
Being eligible for VA home loan benefits based on your military status or affiliation doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll qualify for a VA loan.
You still have to qualify for a VA mortgage based on your credit, debt, and income.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
Minimum credit score for a VA loan
The VA has established no minimum credit score for a VA mortgage.
However, many VA mortgage lenders require minimum FICO scores of 620 or higher — so apply with many lenders if your credit score might be an issue.
Even VA lenders that allow lower credit scores don’t accept subprime credit.
VA underwriting guidelines state that applicants must have paid their obligations on time for at least the most recent 12 months to be considered satisfactory credit risks.
In addition, the VA usually requires a two-year waiting period following a Chapter 7 bankruptcy or foreclosure before it will insure a loan.
Borrowers in Chapter 13 must have made at least 12 on-time payments and secure the approval of the bankruptcy court.
Verify your VA loan home buying eligibility. Start here
VA loan debt-to-income ratios
The relationship of your debts and your income is called your debt-to-income ratio, or DTI.
VA underwriters divide your monthly debts (car payments, credit cards, and other accounts, plus your proposed housing expense) by your gross (before-tax) income to come up with your debt-to-income ratio.
For instance:
If your gross income is $4,000 per month
And your total monthly debt is $1,500 (including the new mortgage, property taxes and homeowners insurance, plus other debt payments)
Then your DTI is 37.5% (1500/4000=0.375)
A DTI over 41% means the lender has to apply additional formulas to see if you qualify under residual income guidelines.
VA residual income rules
VA underwriters perform additional calculations that can affect your mortgage approval.
Factoring in your estimated monthly utilities, your estimated taxes on income, and the area of the country in which you live, the VA arrives at a figure which represents your “true” costs of living.
It then subtracts that figure from your income to find your residual income (e.g. your money “left over” each month).
Think of the residual income calculation as a real-world simulation of your living expenses.
It is the VA’s best effort to ensure that military families have a stress-free homeownership experience.
Here is an example of how residual income works, assuming a family of four which is purchasing a 2,000 square-foot home on a $5,000 monthly income.
Future house payment, plus other debt payments: $2,500
Monthly estimated income taxes: $1,000
Monthly estimated utilities at $0.14 per square foot: $280
This leaves a residual income calculation of $1,220.
Now, compare that residual income to for a family of four:
Northeast Region: $1,025
Midwest Region: $1,003
South Region: $1,003
West Region: $1,117
The borrower in our example exceeds VA’s residual income standards in all parts of the country.
Therefore, despite the borrower’s debt-to-income ratio of 50%, the borrower could get approved for a VA loan.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
Qualifying for a VA loan with part-time income
You can qualify for this type of financing even if you have a part-time job or multiple jobs.
You must show a 2-year history of making consistent part-time income, and stability in the number of hours worked. The lender will make sure any income received appears stable. See our complete guide to getting a mortgage when you’re self-employed or work part-time.
VA funding fees and loan limits
About the VA funding fee
The VA charges an upfront fee to defray the costs of the program and make it sustainable for the future.
Veterans pay a lump sum that varies depending on the loan purpose and down payment amount.
The fee is normally wrapped into the loan. It does not add to the cash needed to close the loan.
Find out if you qualify for a VA loan. Start here
VA home purchase funding fees
Type of Military Service
Down Payment
Fee for First-Time Use
Fee for Subsequent Use
Active Duty, Reserves, and National Guard
None
2.3%
3.6%
5% or more
1.65%
1.65%
10% or more
1.4%
1.4%
VA cash-out refinance funding fees
Type of Military Service
Fee for First-Time Use
Fee for Subsequent Uses
Active Duty, Reserves, and National Guard
2.3%
3.6%
VA streamline refinances (IRRRL) & assumptions
Type of Military Service
Fee for First-Time Use
Fee for Subsequent Uses
Active Duty, Reserves, and National Guard
0.5%
0.5%
Manufactured home loans not permanently affixed
Type of Military Service
Fee for First-Time Use
Fee for Subsequent Uses
Active Duty, Reserves, and National Guard
1.0%
1.0%
VA loan limits in 2024
VA loan limits have been repealed, thanks to the Blue Water Navy Vietnam Veterans Act of 2019.
There is no maximum amount for which a home buyer can receive a VA loan, at least as far as the VA is concerned.
However, private lenders may set their own limits. So check with your lender if you are looking for a VA loan above local conforming loan limits.
Verify your VA loan eligibility. Start here
Eligible property types
Houses you can buy with a VA loan
VA mortgages are flexible about what types of property you can and can’t purchase. A VA loan can be used to buy a:
Detached house
Condo
New-built home
Manufactured home
Duplex, triplex or four-unit property
Find out if you qualify for a VA loan. Start here
You can also use a VA mortgage to refinance an existing loan for any of those types of properties.
VA loans and second homes
Federal regulations limit loans guaranteed by the Department of Veterans Affairs to “primary residences” only.
However, “primary residence” is defined as the home in which you live “most of the year.”
Therefore, if you own an out-of-state residence in which you live for more than six months of the year, this other home, whether it’s your vacation home or retirement property, becomes your official “primary residence.”
For this reason, VA loans are popular among aging military borrowers.
Buying a multi-unit home with a VA loan
VA loans allow you to buy a duplex, triplex, or four-plex with 100% financing. You must live in one of the units.
Buying a home with more than one unit can be challenging.
Mortgage lenders consider these properties riskier to finance than traditional, single-family residences, so you’ll need to be a stronger borrower.
VA underwriters must make sure you will have enough emergency savings, or cash reserves, after closing on your house. That’s to ensure you’ll have money to pay your mortgage even if a tenant fails to pay rent or moves out.
The minimum cash reserves needed after closing is six months of mortgage payments (covering principal, interest, taxes, and insurance – PITI).
Your lender will also want to know about previous landlord experience you’ve had, or any experience with property maintenance or renting.
If you don’t have any, you may be able to sidestep that issue by hiring a property management company. But that’s up to the individual lender.
Your lender will look at the income (or potential income) of the rental units, using either existing rental agreements or an appraiser’s opinion of what the units should fetch.
They’ll usually take 75% of that amount to offset your mortgage payment when calculating your monthly expenses.
VA loans and rental properties
You cannot use a VA loan to buy a rental property. You can, however, use a VA loan to refinance an existing rental home you once occupied as a primary home.
For home purchases, in order to obtain a VA loan, you must certify that you intend to occupy the home as your principal residence.
If the property is a duplex, triplex, or four-unit apartment building, you must occupy one of the units yourself. Then you can rent out the other units.
The exception to this rule is the VA’s Interest Rate Reduction Refinance Loan (IRRRL).
This loan, also known as the VA Streamline Refinance, can be used for refinancing an existing VA loan on a home where you currently live or where you used to live, but no longer do.
Check your VA IRRRL eligibility. Start here
Buying a condo with a VA loan
The VA maintains a list of approved condo projects within which you may purchase a unit with a VA loan.
At VA’s website, you can search for the thousands of approved condominium complexes across the U.S.
If you are VA-eligible and in the market for a condo, make sure the unit you’re interested in is approved.
As a buyer, you are probably not able to get the complex VA-approved. That’s up to the management company or homeowner’s association.
If a condo you like is not approved, you must use other financing like an FHA or conventional loan or find another property.
Note that the condo must meet FHA or conventional guidelines if you want to use those types of financing.
Veteran mortgage relief with the VA loan
The U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs, or VA, provides home retention assistance. The VA intervenes when a veteran is having trouble making home loan payments.
The VA works with loan servicers to offer loan options to the veteran, other than foreclosure.
Find out if you qualify for a VA loan. Start here
In fiscal year 2019, the VA made over 400,000 contact actions to reach borrowers and loan servicers. The intent was to work out a mutually agreeable repayment option for both parties.
More than 100,000 veteran homeowners avoided foreclosure in 2019 alone thanks to this effort.
The initiative has saved the taxpayer an estimated $2.6 billion. More importantly, vast numbers of veterans and military families got another chance at homeownership.
When NOT to use a VA loan
If you have good credit and 20% down
A primary advantage to VA home loans is the lack of mortgage insurance.
However, the VA guarantee does not come free of charge. Borrowers pay an upfront funding fee, which they usually choose to add to their loan amount.
The fee ranges from 1.4% to 3.6%, depending on the down payment percentage and whether the home buyer has previously used his or her VA mortgage eligibility. The most common fee is 2.3%.
Find out if you qualify for a VA loan. Start here
On a $200,000 purchase, a 2.3% fee equals $4,600.
However, buyers who choose a conventional mortgage and put 20% down get to avoid mortgage insurance and the upfront fee. For these military home buyers, the VA funding fee might be an unnecessary expense.
The exception: Mortgage applicants whose credit rating or income meets VA guidelines but not those of conventional mortgages may still opt for VA.
If you’re on the “CAIVRS” list
To qualify for a VA loan, you must prove you have made good on previous government-backed debts and that you have paid taxes.
The Credit Alert Verification Reporting System, or “CAIVRS,” is a database of consumers who have defaulted on government obligations. These individuals are not eligible for the VA home loan program.
If you have a non-veteran co-borrower
Veterans often apply to buy a home with a non-veteran who is not their spouse.
This is okay. However, it might not be their best choice.
As the veteran, your income must cover your half of the loan payment. The non-veteran’s income cannot be used to compensate for the veteran’s insufficient income.
Plus, when a non-veteran owns half the loan, the VA guarantees only half that amount. The lender will require a 12.5% down payment for the non-guaranteed portion.
The Conventional 97 mortgage, on the other hand, allows down payments as low as 3%.
Another low-down-payment mortgage option is the FHA home loan, for which 3.5% down is acceptable.
The USDA home loan also requires zero down payment and offers similar rates to VA loans. However, the property must be within USDA-eligible areas.
If you plan to borrow with a non-veteran, one of these loan types might be your better choice.
Explore your mortgage options. Start here
If you apply with a credit-challenged spouse
In states with community property laws, VA lenders must consider the credit rating and financial obligations of your spouse. This rule applies even if he or she will not be on the home’s title or even on the mortgage.
Such states are as follows.
Arizona
California
Idaho
Louisiana
Nevada
New Mexico
Texas
Washington
Wisconsin
A spouse with less-than-perfect credit or who owes alimony, child support, or other maintenance can make your VA approval more challenging.
Apply for a conventional loan if you qualify for the mortgage by yourself. The spouse’s financial history and status need not be considered if he or she is not on the loan application.
Verify your VA loan home buying eligibility. Start here
If you want to buy a vacation home or investment property
The purpose of VA financing is to help veterans and active-duty service members buy and live in their own home. This loan is not meant to build real estate portfolios.
These loans are for primary residences only, so if you want a ski cabin or rental, you’ll have to get a conventional loan.
If you want to purchase a high-end home
Starting January 2020, there are no limits to the size of mortgage a lender can approve.
However, lenders may establish their own limits for VA loans, so check with your lender before applying for a large VA loan.
Spouses and the VA mortgage program
What spouses are eligible for a VA loan?
What if the service member passes away before he or she uses the benefit? Eligibility passes to an unremarried spouse, in many cases.
Find and lock a low VA loan rate today. Start here
For the surviving spouse to be eligible, the deceased service member must have:
Died in the line of duty
Passed away as a result of a service-connected disability
Been missing in action, or a prisoner of war, for at least 90 days
Been a totally disabled veteran for at least 10 years prior to death, and died from any cause
Also eligible are remarried spouses who married after the age of 57, on or after December 16, 2003.
In these cases, the surviving spouse can use VA loan eligibility to buy a home with zero down payment, just as the veteran would have.
VA loan benefits for surviving spouses
Surviving spouses have an additional VA loan benefit, however. They are exempt from the VA funding fee. As a result, their loan balance and monthly payment will be lower.
Surviving spouses are also eligible for a VA streamline refinance when they meet the following guidelines.
The surviving spouse was married to the veteran at the time of death
The surviving spouse was on the original VA loan
VA streamline refinancing is typically not available when the deceased veteran was the only applicant on the original VA loan, even if he or she got married after buying the home.
In this case, the surviving spouse would need to qualify for a non-VA refinance, or a VA cash-out loan.
A cash-out mortgage through VA requires the military spouse to meet home purchase eligibility requirements.
If this is the case, the surviving spouse can tap into the home’s equity to raise cash for any purpose, or even pay off an FHA or conventional loan to eliminate mortgage insurance.
Qualifying if you receive (or pay) child support or alimony
Buying a home after a divorce is no easy task.
If, prior to your divorce, you lived in a two-income household, you now have less spending power and a reduced monthly income for purposes of your VA home loan application.
With less income, it can be harder to meet both the VA Home Loan Guaranty’s debt-to-income (DTI) guidelines and the VA residual income requirement for your area.
Receiving alimony or child support can counteract a loss of income.
Mortgage lenders will not require you to provide information about your divorce agreement’s alimony or child support terms, but if you’re willing to disclose, it can count toward qualifying for a home loan.
Different VA-approved lenders will treat alimony and child support income differently.
Typically, you will be asked to provide a copy of your divorce settlement or other court paperwork to support the alimony and child support payments.
Lenders will then want to see that the payments are stable, reliable, and likely to continue for another 36 months, at least.
You may also be asked to show proof that alimony and child support payments have been made in the past reliably, so that the lender may use the income as part of your VA loan application.
If you are the payor of alimony and child support payments, your debt-to-income ratio can be harmed.
Not only might you be losing the second income of your dual-income households, but you’re making additional payments that count against your outflows.
VA mortgage lenders make careful calculations with respect to such payments.
You can still get approved for a VA loan while making such payments — it’s just more difficult to show sufficient monthly income.
VA loan assumption
What is VA loan assumption?
One benefit for home buyers is that VA loans are assumable. When you assume a mortgage loan, you take over the current homeowner’s monthly payment.
Verify your VA loan home buying eligibility. Start here
That could be a big advantage if mortgage rates have risen since the original owner purchased the home. The buyer would be able to acquire a low-rate, affordable loan — and it could make it easier for the seller to find a willing buyer in a tough market.
VA loan assumption savings
Buying a home via an assumable mortgage loan is even more appealing when interest rates are on the rise.
For example:
Say a seller-financed $200,000 for their home in 2013 at an interest rate of 3.25% on a 30-year fixed loan
Using this scenario, their principal and interest payment would be $898 per month
Let’s assume current 30-year fixed rates averaged 4.10%
If you financed $200,000 at 4.10% for a 30-year loan term, your monthly principal and interest payment would be $966 per month
Additionally, because the seller has already paid four years into the loan term, they’ve already paid nearly $25,000 in interest on the loan.
By assuming the loan, you would save $34,560 over the 30-year loan due to the difference in interest rates. You would also save roughly $25,000 thanks to the interest already paid by the sellers.
That comes out to a total savings of almost $60,000!
How to assume (take on) a VA loan
There are currently two ways to assume a VA loan.
The new buyer is a qualified veteran who “substitutes” his or her VA eligibility for the eligibility of the seller
The new home buyer qualifies through VA standards for the mortgage payment. This is the safest method for the seller as it allows the loan to be assumed knowing that the new buyer is responsible for the loan, and the seller is no longer responsible for the loan
The lender and/or the VA needs to approve a loan assumption.
Loans serviced by a lender with automatic authority may process assumptions without sending them to a VA Regional Loan Center.
For lenders without automatic authority, the loan must be sent to the appropriate VA Regional Loan Center for approval. This loan process will typically take several weeks.
When VA loans are assumed, it’s the servicer’s responsibility to make sure the homeowner who assumes the property meets both VA and lender requirements.
VA loan assumption requirements
For a VA mortgage assumption to take place, the following conditions must be met:
The existing loan must be current. If not, any past due amounts must be paid at or before closing
The buyer must qualify based on VA credit and income standards
The buyer must assume all mortgage obligations, including repayment to the VA if the loan goes into default
The original owner or new owner must pay a funding fee of 0.5% of the existing principal loan balance
A processing fee must be paid in advance, including a reasonable estimate for the cost of the credit report
Find out if you qualify for a VA loan. Start here
Finding assumable VA loans
There are several ways for home buyers to find an assumable VA loan.
Believe it or not, print media is still alive and well. Some home sellers advertise their assumable home for sale in the newspaper, or in a local real estate publication.
There are a number of online resources for finding assumable mortgage loans.
Websites like TakeList.com and Zumption.com give homeowners a way to showcase their properties to home buyers looking to assume a loan.
With the help of the Multiple Listing Service (MLS), real estate agents remain a great resource for home buyers.
This applies to home buyers specifically searching for assumable VA loans as well.
How do I apply for a VA loan?
You can easily and quickly have a lender pull your certificate of eligibility (COE) to make sure you’re able to get a VA loan.
Most mortgage lenders offer VA home loans. So you’re free to shop and compare rates with just about any company that catches your eye.
Getting a VA loan for your new home is similar in many ways to securing any other purchase loan. Once you find an ideal home in your price range, you make a purchase offer, and then undergo VA appraisal and underwriting.
VA appraisal ensures that the home meets its minimum property requirements (MPRs) and is structurally sound and safe for occupancy.
What’s more, VA-specific mortgage lenders are actually some of the highest-rated (and lowest-priced) on the market. Here are a few we’d recommend checking out.
Time to make a move? Let us find the right mortgage for you
Earning returns can be exhilarating. But it’s important to remember that they don’t necessarily represent the money that goes in the bank. Commissions, taxes, and other fees impact the returns any investor makes on their investment.
Just how big a bite these investment expenses take out of an investor’s assets isn’t always instantly clear. But by understanding the fees they pay, and the taxes they’re likely to owe, investors can better plan for the money they’ll actually receive from their investments. And they can also take concrete steps to minimize the effects of fees and taxes.
Investment Expenses 101
There are a few different types of investment expenses an investor may come across as they buy and sell assets. Here are the most common ones.
Fund Fees
Mutual funds are a very popular way for investors to get into the market. They’re the vehicles that most 401(k), 403(b), and IRAs offer investors to save for retirement. But these funds charge fees, starting with a management fee, which pays the fund’s staff to buy and trade investments.
Investors pay this fee as a portion of their assets, whether the investments go up or down. (With employer-sponsored retirement accounts, the employer may cover the fees as long as the account holder is employed by the company.) Management fees vary widely, with some index funds charging as little as .10% of an investor’s assets. But other mutual funds may charge more than 2%.
In addition to the management fee, the fund may also charge for advertising and promotion expenses, known as the 12b-1 fee. Plus, mutual fund investors may have to pay sales charges, especially if they buy funds through a financial planner, or an investment advisor. While the maximum legal sales charge for a mutual fund is 8.5%, the common range is between 3% and 6%.
One way to understand how much of a bite these mutual fund fees take out of an investment on an annual basis is to look at the expense ratio. 💡 Quick Tip: Look for an online brokerage with low trading commissions as well as no account minimum. Higher fees can cut into investment returns over time.
Advisor Fees
Investors may also face fees when they hire a professional to help manage their money. Some advisors charge a percentage of invested assets per year. More recently, some advisors have simplified the cost by simply charging an hourly fee.
Broker Fees and Commissions
Even investors who want to manage their own portfolios typically pay a broker for their services in the form of fees and commissions. These fees and commissions may be based on a percentage of the transaction’s value, or they may be rolled into a flat fee. Another factor that may influence the fee: whether an investor uses a full-service broker or a discount broker.
How to Minimize the Cost of Investing
No matter how an investor approaches the market, they can expect to pay some fees. It’s up to each individual to decide whether or not those fees are worth it. For some, paying a professional for hands-on advice is worth the extra annual 1% fee (or more) of their invested assets. For others, minimizing costs may be a priority. Among many options, there are a few investing opportunities that stand out as relatively low-cost.
Index Funds
When investing in mutual funds, one type of fund has established itself as the least expensive in terms of fees: Index funds. That’s because these funds track an index instead of paying analysts and managers to research and trade securities. When it comes to index funds vs. managed funds, proponents typically cite the lower fees.
Automated Investing Platforms
People seeking investing advice or guidance who don’t want to pay typical fees might want to explore automated investing platforms, also known as “robo-advisors.” Some of these platforms charge annual advisory fees as low as .25%. That said, these platforms often use mutual funds, which charge their own fees on top of the platform fees.
Discount Brokerage
Investors who manage their own portfolio may opt for a discount or online brokerage. These brokers tend to charge flat fees per trade as low as $5, with account maintenance fees also often as low as $0 to $50 per account.
How Taxes Eat into Investing Profits
There are typically two kinds of taxes that investors have to worry about. The first is income tax, and the second is capital gains tax. In general, income taxes apply to investment earnings in the form of interest payments, dividends, or bond yields. Capital gains, on the other hand, apply to the returns an investor realizes when they sell a stock, bond, or other investment. (The exception: The IRS taxes short-term investments, which an investor has held for less than a year, at that investor’s marginal income tax rate.)
By and large, capital gains tax rates are lower than income tax rates. Income tax rates for high-earners can be as high as 37%, plus a 3.8% net investment income tax (NIIT). That means the taxes on those quick gains can be as high as 40.8%—and that’s not including any state or local taxes.
The taxes on long-term capital gains are lower across the board. For tax year 2023, for investors who are married filing jointly and earning less than $89,250, the capital gains tax rate is 0%. It goes up depending on income, with couples making between $89,250 and $553,850 paying 15%, and those with income above that level paying 20%.
For tax year 2024, those who are married and filing jointly with taxable income up to $94,050 have a capital gains tax rate of 0%. Couples making between $94,050 and $583,750 have a rate of 15%, and those with income above that have a tax rate of 20%. 💡 Quick Tip: Automated investing can be a smart choice for those who want to invest but may not have the knowledge or time to do so. An automated investing platform can offer portfolio options that may suit your risk tolerance and goals (but investors have little or no say over the individual securities in the portfolio).
Strategies to Minimize Taxes
There are a few ways an investor can minimize the impact of taxes on their investments. One popular way to take advantage of the tax code is by investing through a retirement plan, such as a 401(k), 403(b), or IRA. All of these plans encourage people to save for retirement by offering attractive tax breaks.
For tax-deferred accounts like a 401(k) or traditional IRA, the tax break comes on the front end. Retirees will have to pay income taxes on their withdrawals in retirement. On the other hand, retirement accounts like a Roth 401(k) or Roth IRA are funded with after-tax dollars, and money is not taxed upon withdrawal in retirement.
Another approach some investors may want to consider is tax-loss harvesting. This strategy allows investors to take advantage of investments that lost money by selling them and taking a capital loss (as opposed to a capital gain). That capital loss can help investors reduce their annual tax bill. It may be used to offset as much as $3,000 in non-investment income.
The Takeaway
Fees and taxes typically do have an impact on an investor’s returns on investments. How much they eat into profit varies, and is largely dependent on what the investments are, how they are being managed, and how long an investor has had them. Other factors include the investor’s income level, and whether they’ve also lost money on other investments.
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Shares of ETFs must be bought and sold at market price, which can vary significantly from the Fund’s net asset value (NAV). Investment returns are subject to market volatility and shares may be worth more or less their original value when redeemed. The diversification of an ETF will not protect against loss. An ETF may not achieve its stated investment objective. Rebalancing and other activities within the fund may be subject to tax consequences.
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Welcome to NerdWallet’s Smart Money podcast, where we answer your real-world money questions. In this episode:
Learn investment and tax strategies to help you achieve financial security and prepare for a prosperous retirement.
How can you balance saving for emergencies and investing for the future? What strategies can you employ to maximize your tax benefits and build a secure financial future? NerdWallet’s Kim Palmer and Alana Benson discuss investment strategies and tax planning to help you understand how to navigate your financial journey effectively. They begin with a discussion of investment strategies, with tips and tricks on understanding different investment accounts like 401(k)s and IRAs, leveraging compound interest, and the importance of starting investments early. Then, Alana discusses tax planning and filing in-depth, covering the intricacies of different tax forms like W-4s and W-2s, the significance of estimated taxes for freelancers, and strategies for managing capital gains taxes.
Kim and Alana delve into retirement planning and the challenges of active versus passive investing. They provide a framework for prioritizing your finances, emphasizing the creation of an emergency fund, taking advantage of employer 401(k) matches, and understanding the role of asset allocation based on age and risk tolerance. Additionally, they tackle the decision-making process in personal finance, such as choosing between paying off debt and investing, and the pros and cons of having a financial advisor.
Check out this episode on your favorite podcast platform, including:
NerdWallet stories related to this episode:
Episode transcript
This transcript was generated from podcast audio by an AI tool.
Sean Pyles:
Hey listener, we’ve got a special episode in store for you today. Our investing and tax Nerds recently hosted a webinar going deep into how you can level up your investing and tax strategy. So we packaged that up into a podcast episode for you. The Nerds talk about what you need to know about different investing accounts, how to get help with your taxes and more. So here’s the webinar.
Kim Palmer:
Welcome everyone. I am Kim Palmer. I’m a personal finance writer at NerdWallet where we help people make smart decisions. One important note, we are not financial or investment advisors. This nerdy info is provided for general educational and entertainment purposes and may not apply to your specific circumstances. NerdWallet Inc is not an investment advisor or broker and does not provide personal financial advisory services. Today we are excited to talk to you about the basics of investing and taxes and we think we have some helpful info to share with you. You can always find more at nerdwallet.com or on the NerdWallet app. Our goal today is to kick off a helpful discussion about investing and tax information and tools. Alana Benson writes about investing topics including stocks, funds, and ethical investing. And now I will hand it over to Alana.
Alana Benson:
Thanks Kim. Hi everyone. Thank you for joining us today. So before we start, I just want to say a couple of things that often get forgotten when we’re talking about investing. So first, investing usually comes second to some other goals. If you’re having a hard time paying for necessities or you don’t have an emergency fund, it’s really important to focus on those things before we even start worrying about investing. Second, instead of scrimping, try to increase your income. So I didn’t start investing until I was in my late 20s, and that’s because one, I didn’t work at NerdWallet yet, so I literally didn’t know anything. And two, I was making around $25,000 a year, so I didn’t have much expendable income. And when you don’t have extra income, it’s really hard to prioritize investing and it just might not even be a good idea to do that.
When I started making more money, it was suddenly a lot more possible for me to invest for retirement. So if it’s possible for you and you want to be investing more, look for jobs that will pay you more or look into side hustles, but cutting back on your streaming services probably will not save you enough money for retirement. And finally, if you don’t have the money to invest now, that’s totally fine. Some people have serious money anxieties and others just don’t have the cash. Whatever your reason is, don’t stress too much about it. Just keep learning and when you’re able to, you can start investing. So why do we invest? What is the point of all this? And the answer is that it’s because we like money and that’s okay. There’s no shame in admitting it, I like money, most people like money. It’s because money isn’t just money. It’s not like Scrooge McDuck diving into pools of money and buying Maseratis. It’s not that.
It’s about not being stressed about your money all the time and it’s about being able to buy everything that you need and some stuff that you want comfortably without having money stress take up all of your energy. Money allows us to thrive instead of just survive and investing helps you make more money than you could ever possibly make just by working at a job. So okay, what actually is investing? This whole process is very strange. Okay. Investing is the process of money that you already have making additional money for you. And this works through what’s called compound interest. Compound interest means that your gains get a little bit bigger every year and that’s also why starting when you’re younger gives you a huge advantage and more money in the long run. So for example, you just start at that little number one in the box up there. Say you buy an investment for $100, if it goes up the average stock market return of 10%, it could then be worth $110, meaning that you’ve made $10.
Then that $10 that you earned also starts earning compound interest on top of the $100 you initially invested. That doesn’t sound like much of a profit, but imagine if you were doing it with way larger amounts of money over a way longer period of time. Now that 10% is an annualized rate, which means that you’re not going to get 10% every single year. In all likelihood, some years you’re going to finish up, some years you’ll finish down. But over the course of decades when you average all that out, you tend to get about 10%. The way you actually start investing is through an investing account. And there’s a couple of different types, but the type of investment account you have is actually really, really important because a lot of them have some pretty significant tax benefits that you want to take advantage of. So you’ve got your 401(k)s and these are offered through your employer. You add money to it and sometimes your employer matches it. So it’s basically free money. If you have a 401(k), you’ll likely choose your investments from a pre-selected list or a fund that will automatically adjust itself over time.
So this means 401(k)s are typically very hands off. IRAs on the other hand are investment accounts that you open up yourself. IRAs can be opened online through brokerages and actually at a lot of large banks, they also do that. So it’s likely you can open up an investment account just through your bank. Unlike with a 401(k), IRAs you’ll have to choose your own investments in those accounts. You may have heard about a thing called a Roth IRA or a Roth 401(k) and it’s good if you know the difference. So with a Roth, you pay taxes on your money now just like any other money that you earn and then the money you have invested inside that account grows tax-free and you can take it out tax-free in retirement. With a traditional IRA or 401(k), the money you contribute today is pre-tax.
So that is you get to deduct it from your income taxes this year. So it’s like a nice little treat this year, but then when you cash it out in retirement, you’ll owe income taxes on it. This is really, really important. I’ve seen a lot of people make this mistake. Your investment account is not an investment, so a Roth IRA, a 401(k), not an investment. So if you have a Roth IRA, that’s great, but that doesn’t mean you’re actually invested in anything. So you fund your investment account and then you buy investments from there. But I’ve heard of people opening a Roth IRA, putting in a bunch of money and then wondering why it didn’t grow over the last 10 years. So you have to purchase investments for your money to actually grow and if you don’t do it, you’ll miss out on all of those years of growth, so very important.
And there’s a couple different types of investments that you can choose from once you open and fund your investment account. So you’ve got stocks, I’m sure everyone’s heard of that, these are shares of ownership in companies and the way you make money from them is if they go up in value and some pay you a cut of the company’s profits on a regular basis. Then you’ve got bonds. This is when you loan money to companies or the government and they pay you interest. Funds, now these are very exciting because they’re basically just baskets of stocks and bonds that you buy all at once. So a fund is still a stock or bond based investment depending on the type of fund that you get. And there’s a lot of different kinds such as index funds or exchange traded funds and mutual funds, but they’re all collections of investments that you buy at one time.
And I think funds are pretty awesome because if you own a stock and that company goes out of business, you lose all of your money. But if you invest in a fund that covers 100 stocks and that same stock goes out of business, your investment is buoyed up by the other 99 companies. So again, all of these investments, stocks, bonds and funds, you buy them from your investment account and then you own them in there. All right, so let’s talk about the stock market, it’s this weird nebulous term that’s hard to understand. But the stock market is just where people buy and sell investments, but now people just trade investments online. So the stock market is made up of several what are called market indexes. Now these are basically just predetermined lists of companies and the performance of that overall list can tell us a lot about the health of the US economy.
So for example, the S&P 500, something you probably have all heard of, that’s just the list of 500 of the largest publicly traded companies in the US and it includes companies like Apple and Amazon. So when we say the stock market is down today, that means that on average most of those companies aren’t doing well. And you can’t invest in the literal stock market, but you can invest in funds that include all the same investments. So these are called index funds because they track a market index. So again, if you have an S&P 500 index fund, it should perform pretty closely to how the S&P 500 itself is actually performing. The S&P 500 goes up 10% a year on average and 6.5% after inflation. And this is just an average, so some years the market goes up more, some years it goes down less, but when done well, investing can potentially mean doubling your money every few years for doing basically nothing, which is my favorite way of earning money, by doing nothing. It’s great.
So let’s talk strategy. This is all about the way that you invest, when you put your money in and when you take your money out. So passive investing is where you buy that S&P 500 index fund and you keep adding money into it until you retire. It’s very boring, but it’s effective. So it can give you that 10% return on average over the long haul, but a lot of people want to make more than that 10%, and they do so by actively buying and selling stocks, crypto options and other high risk investments. They try to predict when they’ll be low, then they buy them and then they turn around and try to sell them when they’re high. So these people are called active traders or day traders. Only 20% of active traders make money over a six-month period. That is not a lot of people.
There have been a lot of studies over the years that show that active investing is a way less lucrative fashion than boring old passive investing with that index fund. Plus active investing is a lot more work, you have to do all kinds of research and you keep an eye on the markets and you can hypothetically earn more by actively trading versus passively earning the same amount as that historical return of 10%. But most people end up making less when they actually try it, and that’s because people are really bad at predicting things. And in order to make money on the overall stock market over the long term, you have to be really good at predicting things all the time. So maybe you make it big on one stock, but the odds of that happening again and again are very low. So let’s put all of this information together, the accounts, the actual investments and the strategy.
Here’s how financial advisors suggest you prioritize your money when you’re starting to invest. So the first thing you want to do is you’re not actually going to invest at all. The first thing is that you’re going to have an emergency fund. So this is money that you won’t actually put in the stock market, and that’s because when your money is invested, its value can change day by day. So say you have $1,000 and you want to use it for an emergency fund, but you invest it, when you have to fix something on your car suddenly, you go to check your money and its value could be $600 instead of $1,000 and that’s not good. If you put it in a high yield savings account, you can access that money at any time without risking its value. Plus right now the interest rates are really high.
So your money could be earning 4 to 5% just by sitting there. So next, you want to get that 401(k) match if it’s available to you because it’s free money. After that, it’s a good idea to look into IRAs. Both IRAs and 401(k)s have what’s called a contribution limit, which is just the maximum amount of money you can put in each of them every year. If you’re able to max out an IRA, then it’s a good call to move back to your 401(k). And the reason you switch around like that is because of the way the tax benefit works. So it’s likely more beneficial to invest in an IRA over a 401(k) if you’ve already gotten your match, if you have to choose between the two. Then if you max out your 401(k), you can move to a standard brokerage account. And this is not a list of everything you have to be doing right now.
You might be thinking, “Whoa, maxing out an IRA is $6,500, I cannot afford that”, and that is totally fine. So I like to picture it as a waterfall. So when you fill up your emergency fund, then you can start working on getting that 401(k) match. Only after that bucket is full should you then move on to investing in an IRA and so on. And wherever you’re at in your bucket filling journey is okay. It’s just nice to know what to do next when you’re ready for it. So we already talked about what accounts to invest from and the investments you can buy, but then do you just start buying a bunch of index funds or stocks or bonds? How do you know how much of each investment to get? And that is all about risk tolerance. And to understand that we have to understand how risk works over time.
If you’re investing for retirement and you’re in your 20s now, that means you have a ton of time for your investments to grow and then drop dramatically and then rise back up. So financial advisors would say you can afford to take on a bit more risk, AKA invest in riskier investments, because you have time for your investments to bounce back. Now, if you’re investing for your retirement and you’re 65, you don’t want to risk all the money you’ve been investing for years and years because you’re going to actually need to use it to pay for stuff in retirement pretty soon, so you want to protect it. And figuring out how much of each investment you should have is a fancy term called asset allocation, but it just means how much of your portfolio is in which of these investments.
And age is just a number, but typically when you’re younger, you may be able to afford to take more risk because you have more time for the stock market highs and lows to even out. So stocks, and okay, remember index funds and mutual funds are often made up of stocks so those count too, but those tend to carry more risk than investments like bonds. And an example of a 20-year-old’s investment portfolio, which includes all of your accounts so your 401(k), your Roth IRA, all of that together, that could be 100% stocks. And that’s fairly risky, but those 20 year olds are not going to retire for a long time. Now, a 65-year-old might have way more bonds because they don’t want to risk all that money they’ve earned over time. And one thing some investors do to mitigate risk is to slowly shift their asset allocation from high risk investments to low risk investments over time.
And again, I’m not a financial advisor and this is not personalized investment advice, but how much of each investment it’s good to have will usually depend on how much risk you are willing to take. And an investment portfolio can be really simple or really complicated. So you could have that one S&P 500 index fund and you purchase it from a Roth IRA, and that’s just all you do. Just if you want to keep it really simple or you can make it more complicated. So maybe you explore several stock-based funds such as international stocks and healthcare stocks and technology stocks, and you could invest in those types through a fund. So instead of buying 30 technology stocks, you just have one technology stock fund, then a small slice in bonds, and then an even smaller slice is crypto or other high risk investments. Though financial advisors have varying opinions on the safety of crypto.
So keep in mind, this is just an example and not necessarily what you should do personally, but it is really helpful to look up asset allocation portfolios through an online brokerage and see what they recommend for your specific age and when you plan on retiring. You can also talk with a financial advisor who can help guide you through those decisions. And investing is great because it can help you earn wealth, which you could spend on a boat, but more than likely one of your biggest investing goals will be retirement. And the sad truth is that in some things like retirement, they just cost so much that you’ll probably never afford them just by putting money in a savings account. And that’s why we say we have to invest for retirement. And the truth is that most people just aren’t saving enough for retirement.
So you’ll probably have a lot of expenses and you have to pay for that in retirement and some of it’s necessary like food or housing or medical care and some of it is travel or bucket list stuff, but you may not be working anymore or at least not as much as you were. And once you factor in inflation, it’s likely that a dollar today will be worth way less when you’re in retirement. And saving for retirement has gotten even more difficult because you can’t necessarily afford to live on social security. Medicare doesn’t always pay for your health needs and pensions aren’t really as common as they used to be. And because of all this, it’s really important to start investing for retirement sooner rather than later.
And if you’re early in your career, it might seem silly to worry about retiring right now, but if you start investing sooner, you actually spend less on retirement than if you start investing later in life overall and that’s because of compound interest. So our retirement calculator shows that if you start putting away $100 per month, that could grow to nearly $400,000 in 35 years. And it’s always good to know how much you should be trying to invest. When you have a long-term goal in mind, you want to know what that number is. So a retirement calculator can be a big help to figure that out, including NerdWallet’s retirement calculator. No shame, I’m going to plug it, but some financial advisors recommend saving 15% of your pre-tax income for retirement. So okay, let’s break that down. What does that look like?
So if you make $100,000 a year, again just because easy math, that would be $15,000 annually that you’re trying to save for retirement. But if you had a 5% match on your 401(k), you’d already be saving $10,000 a year between the $5,000 you make and the $5,000 your employer puts in. And then if you contributed another $5,000 to your Roth IRA, you’d already meet your target goal of saving $15,000 a year for retirement. You should also think about how much you can make during those peak earning years. If you’re younger, what career are you looking to have? You can look up what those wages tend to look like on a site like Glassdoor or ask someone in your life who is in that career path, and maybe do that tactfully because you’re asking about money. But figuring out what you want to be when you grow up may not be something you want to think about right now.
But to be honest, I studied English in college and no one told me about my job prospects. I figured that I would have to write a super famous book or be a teacher and you don’t have to have everything figured out now, but it doesn’t hurt to see how much a potential field could earn and figure out what careers are open to you. And just keep in mind that relationship between your earnings and investing like we talked about in the beginning. And if you’re later in your career, it is harder to take advantage of compound interest, but some of those investment accounts have those catch up contributions that we talked about so you’re able to contribute more after a certain age. Thank you all so much for listening to me talk very fast for a long time, and now I will hand it back over to Kim to talk about taxes. Thanks so much.
Kim Palmer:
Great, thank you so much, Alana. That was great. Someone actually asked in a pre-submitted question, “Why do I have to pay taxes?” Well, here is why. Taxes are used to pay for a lot of different things like clean water, roads, schools, healthcare, and the military. And your tax return is due every year in mid-April to the IRS. We’ll talk a little bit later about what to do if you need an extension, but in general that is the deadline. But first, let’s back up a little bit. When you file taxes, there is so much paperwork. One really important one is the W-4. That is the document that your employer asks you to fill out when you start a new job. And it plays a really big role in telling your employer how much in taxes to take out of each paycheck. It asks you things like your filing status, dependents, how much tax to withhold, and if you get a really big tax bill or a big refund, then you might want to go back and revisit your W-4 just to make sure you’re withholding enough but not too much.
There’s also the W-2, which is a document that your employer sends you to summarize how much in total they took out of your paycheck the previous year, and you’ll need to reference all those numbers when you file your tax return. If you are self-employed or you work a side hustle, then taxes won’t be automatically withheld from your paycheck, and that means you might have to pay something called estimated taxes, which is typically four times a year. In January, you’ll get something called a 1099 form that outlines how much money any company paid you, and then you’ll use that information when you file your return. And then finally, the 1040 is the main form you use when you file taxes, and we’ll drop a link in the chat for more about that. Okay, so you have all of your forms set. How do you actually file your taxes?
You can do it yourself through the IRS. You can use an online tax prep software or you can use a tax professional like an accountant or a tax preparer. If you do it on your own, you can either use paper forms or get access to brand name tax prep software through an IRS service called Free File. But it’s important to know that only people who make below a certain income qualify for the Free File program. If you use tax software like TurboTax, H&R Block or NerdWallet Taxes powered by Column Tax, many of these providers use a Q&A style to help you do your taxes and some even offer paid upgrades that connect you directly to a tax professional. If your finances are really complicated and you want some extra help, then you can also work with a tax preparer such as a certified public accountant.
You do want to make sure to ask them lots of questions and check their credentials before you agree to share your financial information. And you also want to check to see if they have a prepared tax identification number, which is an ID that’s required for anyone who files tax returns for compensation. The US does not have a flat tax system, and that means that portions of your income can be taxed at different rates. There are currently seven tax rates for federal income taxes that run from 10% to 37%. And which tax rate applies to you depends on your income and your filing status. So you might hear people say, “I’m in the 12% bracket” or “I’m in the 22% bracket”, but being in a tax bracket doesn’t mean you pay that tax rate on everything you make. And in reality, people’s income can fall into several different tax brackets depending on how much they make.
Portions or chunks of your income are taxed at different rates and some of those different taxes are then added together. So for example, some of your income could be taxed at a rate of 10%, another chunk could be at 12%. The more you make, the higher the tax rate might be on some of your income. And depending on the state where you pay your income taxes, you might pay a flat rate or a progressive rate similar to the federal structure. A small handful of states have no state income tax. If you want to pay less, you can look for tax breaks. Tax credits and tax deductions are two tools that can help you potentially minimize your tax bill, but they do work in different ways. Tax deductions reduce your taxable income. As a simplified example, a $25,000 tax deduction on $100,000 of taxable income means that only $75,000 of that income will get taxed.
Tax credits directly reduce your tax bill by the value of their credit. So this means if you owe $2,000 in taxes and you’re eligible for a $1,000 tax credit, you’ll end up owing $1,000. Tax credits tend to be more valuable because they have the potential to pack a bigger punch, so you definitely want to try to take all the tax credits you qualify for, and you could even get money back if a credit is refundable. Common tax credits include the earned income tax credit, the child tax credit, the lifetime learning credit, and the American opportunity credit and savers credit.
All right, I alluded to this at the beginning, but what happens if you’re not going to be ready by mid-April? What do you do? If you know you won’t be able to file on time before tax day, you can file for a free extension with the IRS and that gives you until mid-October to file your return. But you want to make sure that at least 90% of what you think you’ll owe in April is covered by an estimated tax payment or your withholdings. Otherwise, the IRS can hit you with a penalty for late payment. The failure to pay penalty is really no joke. It’s 0.5% of your unpaid taxes each month your payment is late plus interest. If you file late and you did not file an extension, you could also get hit with a failure to file penalty, which is 5% of your unpaid taxes each month that your payment is late. There is some good-ish news, if you file late but you don’t owe anything, you won’t get penalized but that doesn’t mean you’re not still obligated to file.
If you don’t, the IRS could file a return on your behalf and you might miss out on a refund if you’re owed one. And if your tax bill is so high that you can’t pay it off, you do have options. You can set up a long-term or short-term payment plan with the IRS.
I know that was a whole lot of information and taxes can seem scary, but we break down lots of popular tax questions and terms on nerdwallet.com. We have some time to address some pre-submitted questions from the audience ranging from about Roth IRAs to the pros and cons of having a financial advisor. And I do want to give a reminder here as we answer these questions that we are not tax or investing advisors. We are writers who focus on these fields and what we say is not investing or tax advice. So with that said, let’s dive into these questions. A question that came to us in an email was: how do you choose between paying off credit card debt and investing in saving for emergencies?
I really love this question because I think it speaks to some of the biggest challenges of personal finance, navigating these choices. And the answer is it’s really up to you. Many financial advisors say that the first step is to create a starter emergency fund, and you can read more in our article that we’ll link to, Should I Pay Off Debt Or Save? And you’ll see most people think about saving $500 to $1,000 first and then after that to consider contributing enough to a workplace retirement plan if they have access to one, and then contributing 3% to 5% of income to an IRA or a Roth IRA. And then financial advisors say people can consider focusing on paying off high interest debt and amp up investing efforts once they have paid that off. And now Alana, I’ll turn over to you. Perhaps you can answer the questions about Roth IRAs.
Alana Benson:
Absolutely. So a couple folks were wondering, before we went over everything, what a Roth IRA is and how does it work and when is it worth it to open one? So we already covered this a little bit, but again, it’s an individual retirement account and it lets you contribute money that you’ve already paid taxes on. So think about when you get your paycheck. That money has already had taxes taken out of it. So once you hit age 59 and a half and you have held the Roth IRA for at least five years, you can withdraw your contributions and any earnings, which is a fancy word for money that you earn from investing, without paying taxes again. And whether it’s worth it is up to you, especially if you’re trying to decide between a Roth IRA and a traditional IRA because it’s about when you pay those taxes and if you have a traditional IRA, you do get that tax break right now.
So that’s a personal decision. But you can also take out money tax-free from your Roth IRA later in life. So if that’s something that you are really trying to parse out, it might be good to talk to a financial advisor because they can help you with that question. We had two other questions. The first one is: how do you calculate how much money to put in your Roth IRA if you make over the maximum amount? So we didn’t actually cover this, so Roth IRAs do have income limits, but there is something called a Backdoor Roth that lets you contribute money first to a traditional IRA, pay taxes on it and then roll that money into a Roth IRA. And then our last question is: what are the pros and cons of having a financial advisor and how do you find one?
This is such a good question. The pros and cons really depend on your situation. The catchall term ‘financial advisor’ is used to describe a wide variety of people and services, including investment managers, financial consultants, financial planners. First and foremost, you always want to verify a financial professional because financial advisor doesn’t require people to be vetted. Certain things like a certified financial planner or a CFP, those actually have a very high level of education and have a certification that you can verify online. So anyone that you are talking about money with, you want to make sure that you are vetting them. And some of these people can just talk to you about your finances and some of them can actually manage your investments for you if you want that. Financial advisors, depending on the kind that you choose, can be pretty expensive. A robo-advisor is like an AI version of a financial advisor.
You just set up an account for one and then they charge you a pretty modest fee. And based on your age and your risk tolerance, it will manage your investments for you. An online financial advisor can offer more services and you can actually talk to a human being, but those do tend to cost a little bit more. And then you could go to an in-person financial advisor, depending on their credentials, that might cost even more, but sometimes it’s really nice to talk to somebody that you know and you can grow that relationship with them over time.
Kim Palmer:
Great. Thank you, Alana. And I think, actually, I can squeeze in one more question that we received. How do taxes work with investment accounts? How much do we set aside so we aren’t surprised by a tax bill? Which is a great question. If you’re selling stocks from a brokerage investment account, then you should be aware of three words, capital gains taxes. Those are the taxes you’ll pay when you sell assets for profit. Assets that you have owned for more than a year are subject to long-term capital gains tax, and the capital gains tax rate is 0%, 15% or 20% on most assets. Capital gains taxes on assets held for a year or less are subject to short-term capital gains. If you regularly trade stocks or other investments, you might be subject to short-term capital gains.
Those profits are taxed as ordinary income based on your tax brackets, which we went over before. Your final tax bill depends on a number of different factors. If you don’t want to be surprised, estimate what you’ll owe using tools such as a tax calculator or IRS worksheets. If needed, consider setting aside enough to cover the tax bill or paying estimated taxes and as always, your specific situation will differ and we are not tax professionals. We hope that you enjoyed this webinar and learned something today. If you’d like to get even more clarity on your finances and continue learning with NerdWallet, consider signing up for an account with us at nerdwallet.com. Thank you so much for joining us.
Sean Pyles: And that’s all we have for this episode. To send the Nerds your money questions, call or text us on the Nerd hotline at 901-730-6373. That’s 901-730-NERD. You can also email us at [email protected]. Here’s our brief disclaimer. We are not financial or investment advisors. This nerdy info is provided for general educational and entertainment purposes and may not apply to your specific circumstances. This webinar episode was produced by Alikay Wood, Sheri Gordon, and me. We had editing help from Liz Weston, Sara Brink mixed our audio, and a big thank you to NerdWallet’s editors for all their help. And with that said, until next time, turn the Nerds.
For some people, freelancing is the way they earn their living, relishing the freedom and flexibility of this type of work. For others, it’s a smart way to bring in some income in addition to a salary. Regardless of whether you’re managing your freelance business as a full-time endeavor or a side hustle, one fact is true: You’ve got to pay taxes on your earnings.
In this guide, you’ll learn about the steps to take in your situation, including:
• How do you pay taxes as a freelancer?
• Why are freelance taxes higher?
• What are some ways to reduce taxable income?
• What deductions should freelancers take?
• What should freelancers know about tax refunds?
How Taxes for Freelancers Are Different
The first thing to note is that taxes for freelancers are notably different in two major ways: Freelancers pay a larger percentage of their income (because of self-employment tax), and they’ve got to make estimated tax payments every quarter.
What Is Self-Employment Tax?
For the 2023 tax year, self-employment tax is 15.3%. That’s 12.4% for Social Security and 2.9% for Medicare.
That doesn’t mean that’s all that freelancers pay. Self-employment tax is what freelancers pay on top of regular income taxes. The percentage you pay in income taxes depends on what tax bracket you’re in but can range from 10% to 37%.
Why do freelancers pay a self-employment tax? When you’re an employee for a business who receives a W-2 form, your company pays some taxes for you.
But if you’re a freelancer — whether a writer, photographer, dog walker, or consultant — your clients don’t pay any taxes for you, so you’ve got to pick up the slack.
And don’t forget: You may also have to pay state and local taxes, depending on where you live.
What Are Quarterly Taxes?
Most people think of April 15 as the dreaded Tax Day for all Americans, when they have to pay their taxes. But taxes aren’t actually due on April 15: They’re due when you earn the money.
That’s why employers withhold taxes from every paycheck. Tax season is just that special time where the IRS wants you to go over the numbers and make sure the right amount was withheld — and pay up if you actually owe more. (Or, if you overpaid, file your return to claim a refund.)
But since taxes aren’t withheld when freelancers earn revenue from clients, the government expects freelancers to make quarterly tax payments throughout the year.
Freelancers have two options:
1. Pay 100% of the taxes they owed the prior year, split over four payments.
2. Pay 90% of the taxes they’ll owe for the current year, split over four payments.
Note that these percentages may be different if you’re a farmer, fisherman, or high-income earner.
Estimated taxes are among the most complicated parts of being a freelancer, and you can face underpayment penalties if you don’t send Uncle Sam your fair share throughout the years.
You can check out the IRS’s guidelines for estimated taxes , but a tax professional may be worth the cost if you’re confused.
💡 Quick Tip: Typically, checking accounts don’t earn interest. However, some accounts do, and online banks are more likely than brick-and-mortar banks to offer you the best rates.
Paying Taxes as a Freelancer
Now that you understand that freelancers must pay more in taxes and that they need to keep track of more tax deadlines, consider the actual process for freelancer tax filing.
Here’s how to pay freelance taxes in five steps.
1. Determine If You Have to Pay Freelancer Income Tax
First and foremost, it’s a good idea to make sure you actually have to pay freelancer taxes. If you fit the bill of the IRS’s definition of an independent contractor, you’ll have to file as a freelancer and will be subject to self-employment taxes.
The IRS says you’re an independent contractor “if the payer has the right to control or direct only the result of the work and not what will be done and how it will be done.”
It’s a rather broad designation and might fit traditional freelance gigs like writers and graphic designers, but it can also apply to app-based workers, like drivers for Uber and Lyft, and even doctors, lawyers, and veterinarians.
Even if you receive a W-2 from an employer but made other revenue on the side, you’re still subject to freelancer income taxes — and must make estimated payments on that income.
2. Calculate How Much You Earned
As a freelancer, you may receive 1099-NECs from clients for the work you do, detailing just how much money you made from them (as long as you made $600 or more).
Even if you don’t receive a 1099, you still have to report any income you made on your tax return. This means paying taxes if you are paid on Venmo or another platform versus by check or a direct deposit.
If you don’t declare the income, you’re committing tax fraud — and the IRS can find out during an audit.
You may want to use a tax preparation checklist to help you organize these materials. You might start by compiling all your 1099-NECs and any other income forms, including 1099-INTs, 1099-Ks, 1099-MISCs, and W-2s, and then input them on your tax return or into your tax software. If you have additional income not represented by any forms, you’ll be able to report that as well.
3. Compile Your Business Expenses
As a freelancer, you can deduct genuine business expenses from your taxable income. The more expenses you have, the lower your adjusted gross income — and the less you have to pay in taxes.
These are called tax deductions. Many tax filers choose to take the standard deduction: $13,850 for single people or married individuals filing separately and $27,700 for married couples filing jointly. However, freelancers with a lot of business expenses might earn a larger deduction by itemizing all their business expense deductions.
Common Tax Deductions for Freelancers
Business expenses can vary significantly depending on the kind of work you do, but you may be able to to use some of these freelancer tax deductions, like:
• A portion of your rent or mortgage (your home office deduction)
• Phone and internet bills
• Any computer and software expenses
• Automotive expenses, including miles on your car when used for business (and only for business)
• Office supplies
• Travel expenses
• Marketing and advertising expenses
• Continuing education
Freelancers may also be able to take the qualified business income deduction and self-employment tax deduction.
Other Tax Deductions and Tax Credits
Business expenses may apply to freelancers specifically, but independent contractors can take advantage of other common tax deductions and credits.
Other common tax deductions include mortgage interest payments, charitable contributions, student loan interest payments, and the state and local tax deduction.
Tax credits are also a useful tax tool and can greatly reduce your tax bill as a freelancer. Some popular tax credits include the child tax credit, Earned Income Tax Credit, and electric vehicle tax credit.
Recommended: Fastest Ways to Get Your Tax Refund
4. Account for Estimated Payments
If you made estimated tax payments the previous year, don’t forget to apply those to your tax form when filing. After all, if you’ve handed over a chunk of change to the IRS already, you’ll want credit for it.
You’ll add your total payments to line 26 on Form 1040 if filling out the form yourself, but most tax software and accountants should prompt you for this information.
5. File and Calculate Estimated Payments
The last step in how to pay freelance taxes: You’re now ready to complete your forms, and send in your tax return and any payments that you owe. And it’s not necessarily just federal taxes that are needed for freelancer tax filing: Depending on where you live, you may owe state, local, and school district income taxes as well.
After filing, surprise: You’re not done yet. You’ll also need to estimate taxes for the current year. Your first quarterly payment is due on Tax Day in April.
If you’re working with an accountant, they can help you calculate how much you’ll likely owe and print out vouchers for you to mail in with your payments. If you wind up making significantly more or less throughout the year, you can adjust your estimated payments to match. That’s part of learning how to budget on a fluctuating income.
Freelancer Tax-Filing Tips
Freelancing and taxes can seem complicated. Here are tips to help you save money and hit all your deadlines.
Plan for Retirement as a Freelancer
Reducing your taxable income is helpful when you have to pay significantly more in taxes on your earnings. One way to do this — and prepare for your future — is to open a retirement account and make pre-tax contributions.
You can contribute to a traditional IRA, but there are also retirement plans designed for self-employed individuals, including a SEP IRA and a solo 401(k). It’s worth educating yourself about how these work and contribution limits so you can find the best option for your financial situation and aspirations.
Research Deductions
You may be tempted to take the standard deduction when filing, but if you have a lot of business expenses, you may earn a larger tax break by itemizing. Tax software and accountants generally know all the different types of taxes and guidelines. They can help you find all the tax deductions you qualify for, but it never hurts to do some research on your own.
Stay Organized
Organization is crucial when running your own business — and that holds true at tax time. By organizing your bills and tracking your income throughout the year (even on a daily basis), you should have good records of all your revenue and expenses.
Find record- and receipt-keeping systems that work for you. You may also want to set calendar reminders so you never miss a quarterly tax payment deadline.
Work with a Tax Professional
Freelancer income taxes can be challenging and confusing. If you’re overwhelmed and worried about making a mistake, it may be worth the money to hire an accountant or tax preparer.
Plus, the tax-filing fee may count as a deductible business expense for next year.
Understand Tax Refunds for Freelancers
Know that it is unlikely that you’ll get a tax refund as a freelancer. What often triggers a tax refund is that a full-time employee had too much money withheld for taxes from each paycheck and their overpayment comes back to them. (They can adjust their W-4 employee withholding tax form to avoid this situation in the future.)
But as a freelancer, it is unlikely you are overpaying your taxes, especially if you are tracking your income and paying the appropriate amount of quarterly taxes.
Recommended: Maximizing Your Time and Money
The Takeaway
Taxes can get more complicated if you’re a freelancer. You likely will pay more in taxes (thanks to the self-employment tax), and you’ll probably need to make quarterly estimated payments. It’s wise to regularly track and review your earnings and expenses so you can stay on top of how you are doing. For many freelancers, working with a tax professional is the best path forward.
Also worth noting: As a freelancer, you need several tools to stay organized and run your business, including a bank account.
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FAQ
Why is freelance tax so high?
Freelance taxes are higher because they include self-employment tax. This additional 15.3% is what employers traditionally pay on behalf of their employees. In the case of freelancers, they’re both the employer and the employee so they have to cover that amount.
Do I need to declare freelance income?
Yes, you must declare all freelance income. Even if you didn’t make enough to trigger a 1099 from a client — or that client forgot to send you a 1099 — you must report any and all income to the IRS.
What happens if you don’t file freelance taxes?
If you don’t make quarterly tax payments as a freelancer, you could be subject to underpayment penalties when you go to file. If you don’t pay at all, you’ll be subject to Failure to File and Failure to Pay penalties. You’ll owe interest on top of the fines — and eventually could face jail time if you don’t pay.
Can freelancers pay taxes annually?
While freelancers must file taxes annually like everybody else, they are usually required to make quarterly estimated taxes since no taxes are being withheld from their payments throughout the year.
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If you find yourself in a bad financial situation, making an early withdrawal from your 401(k) may sound tempting. But early withdrawals from your 401(k) come with hefty fines and can put your retirement at risk. So, before you do this, you should be sure that it’s truly a financial necessity.
That being said, there are situations when it makes sense, and occasionally, you can find ways to get the fees waived. This article will review everything you need to know before making an early 401(k) withdrawal.
Early 401(k) Withdrawal Options
Wondering if you can tap into your 401(k) funds ahead of schedule? The ability to make an early withdrawal from your 401(k) hinges on several factors, including your employer’s policies, the specifics of your plan, and your current employment status. Here’s a straightforward guide to understanding your options.
Checking With Your Employer
Your first step should be to get in touch with your human resources department. Not every employer permits early withdrawals from their 401(k) plans, and those that do may have specific criteria and procedures you’ll need to follow. The ease of starting this process and the options available to you will depend on various factors, such as your age and the specific rules of your plan.
For Former Employees
If you’re no longer employed with the company that holds your original 401(k), reaching out to the plan’s administrator is your next move. The administrator can provide you with the necessary steps and documentation required to initiate an early withdrawal. They’ll guide you through the process, ensuring you understand any implications or penalties associated with accessing your funds prematurely.
For Current Employees
Still working for the company where you’ve built your 401(k)? There might be restrictions on your ability to make early withdrawals. But don’t lose hope; you might have the option to borrow against your 401(k) instead.
Taking a 401(k) loan can be a viable alternative, offering a way to access your funds without the penalties associated with early withdrawals. We’ll delve into the specifics of 401(k) loans and how they work later on, providing you with all the information you need to make an informed decision.
401(k) Early Withdrawal Penalties
When it comes to pulling money from your 401(k) before reaching the age of 59 ½, the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) doesn’t give you a free pass. Let’s break down what this really means for your wallet. You’re not just facing a flat fee; it’s a combination of penalties and taxes that can significantly reduce the amount you end up with.
The 10% Penalty Explained
If you dip into your 401(k) early, the IRS imposes a 10% penalty on the amount you withdraw. This is their way of discouraging people from using their retirement savings prematurely. For example, if you withdraw $10,000, you owe $1,000 right off the bat to the IRS as a penalty.
Tackling the Tax Implications
But the financial impact doesn’t stop there. Since 401(k) contributions are made pre-tax, when you take money out, it’s considered taxable income. This means the amount you withdraw will be added to your total income for the year, potentially pushing you into a higher tax bracket.
To illustrate, let’s say you’re in the 22% tax bracket. On a $10,000 withdrawal, you’ll owe $2,200 in income taxes, in addition to the $1,000 penalty. So, from your $10,000, you’re down $3,200, leaving you with $6,800.
Real-World Example for Clarity
Imagine John, who decides to withdraw $10,000 from his 401(k) to cover an unexpected expense. John is in the 22% tax bracket. Here’s how his withdrawal breaks down:
10% early withdrawal penalty: $1,000
Income tax (22%): $2,200
Total deductions: $3,200
Amount John receives: $6,800
This example highlights the importance of considering the combined effect of penalties and taxes on early 401(k) withdrawals. It’s not just about the immediate need for cash but understanding the long-term impact on your retirement savings.
Tax Planning Strategies for Early 401(k) Withdrawals
Making an early withdrawal from your 401(k) can have significant tax implications. However, with careful planning, you can manage these impacts more effectively. Here are strategies to consider:
Spread Out Withdrawals
If possible, spreading out your withdrawals over several years can help manage your tax bracket. Large withdrawals can push you into a higher tax bracket, increasing your overall tax liability. By taking smaller amounts over time, you may stay within a lower tax bracket, reducing the amount of taxes owed.
State Tax Considerations
Remember that state taxes can also apply to 401(k) withdrawals. Tax rates and regulations vary by state, so it’s essential to understand the rules in your state and plan accordingly. Some states offer tax breaks or exemptions for retirement income, which could influence your withdrawal strategy.
Reinvesting Withdrawn Funds
If you must make an early withdrawal but don’t need the funds immediately for expenses, consider reinvesting them in a tax-advantaged account. This could be a Roth IRA, where withdrawals in retirement are tax-free, or a health savings account (HSA), if eligible. These moves can help mitigate the tax impact and potentially grow your investment tax-free.
Implementing these tax planning strategies can help you navigate the complexities of early 401(k) withdrawals, minimizing the tax bite and keeping your retirement goals on track. Consulting with a tax professional or financial advisor can provide personalized advice based on your individual situation and financial goals.
Hardship Withdrawal Eligibility and Requirements
When life throws you a financial curveball, tapping into your 401(k) through a hardship withdrawal might seem like a viable option. This choice allows you to access your retirement funds early without the standard 10% penalty, under specific conditions. Let’s explore what qualifies as a hardship withdrawal, the documentation you’ll need, and how to prove your need effectively.
Qualifying Conditions for Hardship Withdrawals
Hardship withdrawals are not given out for just any reason. The IRS defines specific scenarios where these withdrawals are permitted. These include:
Unreimbursed medical expenses: Significant out-of-pocket medical costs for you, your spouse, or dependents.
Home purchase: Down payment and closing costs for buying your primary residence.
Tuition and education fees: Tuition, related educational fees, and room and board expenses for the next 12 months of postsecondary education for you, your spouse, children, or dependents.
Prevention of eviction or foreclosure: Amounts necessary to prevent eviction from or foreclosure on your primary residence.
Funeral expenses: Costs related to the death of a family member.
Repair of damage to primary residence: Costs for repairs to your home that would qualify for the casualty deduction under IRS rules.
Documentation Requirements
To successfully apply for a hardship withdrawal, you’ll need to provide substantial proof that your situation matches one of the qualifying conditions. This might include:
Unreimbursed medical expenses: Bills and statements from healthcare providers, showing the costs not covered by insurance.
Home purchase: Mortgage documents or contracts that highlight the purchase of a primary residence.
Tuition and education fees: Invoices from the educational institution for tuition, along with documentation for related expenses.
Prevention of eviction or foreclosure: Notice of eviction or foreclosure proceedings against your primary residence.
Funeral expenses: Funeral home invoices or other documentation of related expenses.
Repair of damage to primary residence: Estimates or receipts for repairs necessary due to damage that qualifies for a casualty deduction.
The Process of Proving Hardship
Proving hardship is more than just submitting documents. You’ll need to:
Contact your plan administrator: Start by reaching out to your plan’s administrator. They can guide you through the specific requirements and process for your plan.
Gather your documentation: Collect all relevant documents that substantiate your claim. This may require obtaining records from various sources, so it’s wise to start this step as soon as possible.
Complete the application: Fill out the necessary application forms provided by your plan. Ensure all information is accurate and attach your supporting documentation.
Await approval: After submitting your application, there will be a review process. During this time, your plan administrator may request additional information or clarification.
While a hardship withdrawal can offer a lifeline during financial distress, it’s crucial to approach this option with a full understanding of the qualifications and process. Remember, these withdrawals can impact your retirement savings, so consider all alternatives before proceeding.
Should you consider a 401(k) loan instead?
Considering a 401(k) loan instead of an early withdrawal might be a strategic move under certain circumstances. Below, we will clarify the nuances of 401(k) loans, including repayment conditions, interest rates, and when it’s advantageous to choose this option over withdrawing funds directly.
The Basics of 401(k) Loans
A 401(k) loan allows you to borrow against the savings in your retirement accounts without incurring the penalties and taxes associated with an early withdrawal. It’s a feature many plans offer, providing a way to access your funds for immediate needs while still keeping your retirement goals on track.
Repayment Terms
Repayment terms for 401(k) loans vary by plan, but typically, you’re expected to repay the loan within five years. Payments are usually set up on a monthly basis and are deducted directly from your paycheck, making the repayment process straightforward and manageable.
Interest Rates
The interest rate on a 401(k) loan is often comparable to or slightly higher than current market rates, but significantly lower than the rates associated with credit card debt or personal loans. The interest you pay goes back into your 401(k) account, essentially paying yourself back with interest, which can make this option particularly appealing.
When to Consider a 401(k) Loan
Choosing a 401(k) loan over a direct withdrawal or other financial avenues can be wise in several scenarios:
Avoiding penalties and taxes: If you need access to funds but want to avoid the penalties and taxes associated with an early 401(k) withdrawal.
Debt consolidation: When looking to consolidate high-interest debt under a lower interest rate, thus saving money in the long term.
Major expenses: For significant expenses, such as home repairs or medical bills, where using a 401(k) loan can provide a financially responsible solution.
Before opting for a 401(k) loan, consider the impact on your retirement savings. While you’re repaying the loan, the borrowed amount is not invested, potentially missing out on market gains. Additionally, if you leave your job, the loan may become due in full much sooner than the original five-year term.
Substantially Equal Periodic Payments (SEPP): A Closer Look
When considering accessing your 401(k) or IRA funds before the typical retirement age without facing penalties, the Substantially Equal Periodic Payments (SEPP) program can be a lifeline. This strategy requires a commitment to taking consistent withdrawals for a significant period. Let’s dive deeper into how SEPP works, how to calculate your payments, and when this approach might be particularly beneficial or risky.
How to Calculate SEPP Payments
Calculating your SEPP involves choosing from one of three IRS-approved methods: the Required Minimum Distribution (RMD) method, the Fixed Amortization method, and the Fixed Annuitization method. Each method uses your current account balance and life expectancy factors to determine annual withdrawal amounts, but they vary in flexibility and payment amounts.
RMD method: This method recalculates your payment each year based on the current account balance and your life expectancy.
Fixed amortization method: This calculates a fixed annual payment based on your life expectancy and account balance at the start of the SEPP plan.
Fixed annuitization method: This uses an annuity factor to determine annual payments, resulting in fixed payments for the duration of the SEPP period.
Scenarios Where SEPP Might Be Advantageous
SEPP plans can be particularly useful in several situations:
Early retirement: If you plan to retire early and need a steady income stream, SEPP allows you to access your retirement funds without the 10% early withdrawal penalty.
Bridge income gap: For those who need to bridge an income gap until other retirement benefits kick in, such as Social Security or pensions.
Financial emergencies: In cases where there are substantial financial needs before reaching 59 ½, SEPP provides a structured way to access funds.
Potential Pitfalls and Considerations
While SEPP offers a way to access retirement funds early, there are important considerations to keep in mind:
Commitment: Once you start SEPP, you must continue the withdrawals for at least five years or until you reach age 59 ½, whichever is longer. Deviating from the schedule can result in retroactive penalties.
Market risk: Your account is still subject to market fluctuations, which can impact your balance and, potentially, your withdrawal amounts if you’re using the RMD method.
Locking in losses: If you withdraw money during market downturns, it can lock in losses, potentially jeopardizing the longevity of your retirement funds.
SEPP can be a strategic tool for managing retirement funds before reaching the traditional retirement age. However, it’s crucial to carefully assess your financial situation, consider the long-term implications of starting SEPP, and consult with a financial advisor to ensure this strategy aligns with your overall retirement planning goals.
Alternatives to Early 401(k) Withdrawals
Accessing your 401(k) early can come with significant financial repercussions, including penalties and taxes that diminish your retirement savings. Fortunately, there are several other strategies you can consider to meet your financial needs without tapping into your retirement funds prematurely. Let’s delve into some of these alternatives and how they might serve as viable solutions.
Borrow from Family or Friends
One of the most straightforward alternatives is to seek a loan from family or friends. This option can offer more flexible repayment terms and potentially lower (or no) interest rates. However, it’s essential to approach this solution with clear communication and, ideally, a formal agreement to avoid any misunderstandings or strain on your relationships.
Sell Personal Assets
Another strategy is to evaluate your personal assets for items that you can sell. This could range from high-value items like a second car or recreational vehicles to smaller, valuable assets such as electronics or collectibles. Selling assets can provide a quick influx of cash without the need to worry about interest rates or penalties.
Explore Government and Non-Profit Assistance
For those facing financial hardship, various government and non-profit programs offer financial assistance. These programs can provide support for a range of needs, including housing, utilities, food, and medical expenses. Researching and applying to these programs can offer a way to bridge your financial gap without compromising your retirement savings.
Consider Home Equity Loans and HELOCs
If you have equity in your home, tapping into it through a home equity loan or a home equity line of credit (HELOC) might be a strategic alternative to early 401(k) withdrawals. Both options can offer more favorable interest rates than a personal loan or credit cards, but with distinct differences in how you access and repay the funds.
Home Equity Loans
Home equity loans provide a lump sum at a fixed interest rate, making it an excellent choice for one-time, significant expenses. The predictable repayment schedule helps with budgeting but requires you to take out a precise amount from the start.
HELOCs
HELOCs, in contrast, offer a flexible credit line, similar to a credit card, but with lower interest rates. This option allows you to borrow as needed over a draw period, usually with variable interest rates. The flexibility is ideal for ongoing expenses, but it’s vital to manage this responsibly due to the fluctuating payments.
Personal Loans and Credit Options
Personal loans from banks or credit unions, as well as low-interest or 0% APR credit card offers, can also provide temporary relief. These options may come with higher interest rates than a HELOC but don’t require collateral. When choosing this route, it’s vital to compare offers and understand the terms to ensure they align with your financial recovery plan.
Conclusion
When faced with financial needs, deciding whether to access your 401(k) early is a significant choice. It’s crucial to weigh the immediate benefits against the long-term impact on your retirement savings. As we’ve explored, alternatives like borrowing from family or friends, selling personal assets, or tapping into home equity through loans or HELOCs can provide the necessary funds without the drawbacks of early withdrawal penalties and taxes.
For those considering a 401(k) loan or Substantially Equal Periodic Payments (SEPP), these options offer ways to access your funds while minimizing the negative effects on your retirement account. However, each choice comes with its own set of considerations and potential impacts on your financial future.
Ultimately, the decision should align with your overall financial strategy and long-term goals. Consulting with a financial advisor can provide personalized advice, helping you to make an informed choice that balances your immediate needs with your retirement aspirations. Remember, the goal is to ensure financial stability now without compromising your future well-being.
Managing student loan payments can feel like a part-time job. It can be even more overwhelming if you’re experiencing financial trouble, whether that’s due to a job layoff, caring for a family member, or for another reason.
The good news is there are options available to those going through a rough financial patch, including the Economic Hardship Deferment program. But even then, it can be difficult to navigate all of the information on which deferment program you may be eligible to apply for based on the reason for your hardship and the type of student loans you have. So that’s what we’re going to discuss today.
Economic Hardship Deferment, also known as student loan financial hardship, is a program offered in certain cases on federal student loans for borrowers who are eligible and having an exceedingly difficult time making their student loan payments for financial reasons.
Below, we’ll discuss the Economic Hardship Deferment program and what it means for you and your loans, who qualifies to make a hardship claim for student loans, how to apply for the program, and whether it’s the right path for you. We’ll also cover alternatives to Economic Hardship Deferment.
What Is Economic Hardship Deferment?
Student loan deferment allows you to reduce or pause your student loan payments for a designated period of time. An Economic Hardship Deferment is awarded to those who are facing serious financial trouble, as determined by factors such as monthly income and family size.
Those approved for the program can take up to 36 consecutive months of deferment so long as they still meet the qualifications. All participants (except those in the Peace Corps) need to reapply each year.
An important distinction to understand is whether your loans will qualify for a deferment period where interest will accrue, or one where interest does not accrue. Generally, loans that are subsidized will not accrue interest during deferment, whereas an unsubsidized loan will.
In the event your loan qualifies for deferment but will continue to accrue interest, you’ll usually have two options: Make interest-only payments on the loan, or allow interest charges to rack up.
When you allow interest charges to accumulate on an unsubsidized loan, that interest will be tallied up and added to the balance of the loan at the end of the period. This is a process called “capitalization.”
Not only will you have a new, larger balance to pay off, but any future interest payments will be calculated on top of the new, higher balance, meaning you’re paying interest on top of interest. All else equal, the result is that your monthly payments will likely be even higher than they are now.
Which Loans Qualify for Economic Hardship Deferment?
This is a federal loan program, and not all federal loans qualify. Here are a few examples of loans that may qualify (and check the link below for a full, updated list of eligible loans):
• National Direct Student Loans (NDSL Loans)
• Federal Family Education Loans (FEEL Loans)
• Federal Stafford Loans
• Federal Perkins Loans
• Federal Supplemental Loans for Students (SLS Loans)
• Federal PLUS Loans
• Federal Consolidation Loans
• National Defense Student Loans
The Economic Hardship Deferment program is typically available for loans borrowed on or after July 1, 1993.
The Economic Hardship Deferment program is only available for federal student loans, so private loans borrowed through independent financial institutions won’t qualify. However, some private lenders offer their own hardship programs. If your lender offers such a program, they will have their own unique qualifications and application process.
It certainly doesn’t hurt to ask if you are in a difficult financial situation. Remember, lenders don’t want you to default on your loans, and are often willing to work with borrowers to find some sort of solution. With both federal and private loans, never hesitate to call the lender, discuss your situation, and explore options.
Who Qualifies for Economic Hardship Deferment?
To make a hardship claim for student loans, you will have to fill out paperwork and provide documentation proving that you are experiencing financial hardship. Some of the eligibility criteria for an Economic Hardship Deferment will depend on your income, family size, and the poverty income guidelines for your family size in the state where you live (150% of the state poverty level or less). It will also depend on what percentage your student loan payment is of your monthly adjusted gross income.
To qualify for Economic Hardship Deferment, you will need to provide personal information such as your name, Social Security number, and address. You’ll also need to know what type of loan you are requesting economic hardship deferment for.
Here are some examples of what you may need to prove to the loan servicer evaluating your eligibility for deferment:
1. You’ve already been granted Economic Hardship Deferment on loans made under another federal student loan program.
2. You’re receiving payments under a federal or state public assistance program during the time in which you request your loan deferment. Examples of such programs include Temporary Assistance for Needy Families (TANF), Supplemental Security Income (SSI), Food Stamps/Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), or other forms of state assistance.
3. You are serving as a Peace Corp volunteer.
4. You work full-time (30 hours per week) and your monthly income does not exceed 150% of the poverty guideline for your family size and state.
Here’s how to tell if you meet this last guideline: First, determine your family size. This includes you, your spouse, any children who receive more than half of their support from you, any unborn children who are to be born during the deferment period, and anyone else living with you for whom you provide at least half of their support.
Next, find your family size on the following table, and compare it to your annual income (divide by 12 to get your average monthly income).
Family Size
Alaska
Hawaii
All Other States
1
$18,210
$16,770
$14,580
2
$24,640
$22,680
$19,720
3
$31,070
$28,590
$24,860
4
$37,500
$34,500
$30,000
5
$43,930
$40,410
$35,140
6
$50,360
$46,320
$40,280
7
$56,790
$52,230
$45,420
8
$63,220
$58,140
$50,560
Each additional person, add
$6,430
$5,910
$5,140
These figures are from 2023 and are subject to change annually.
You are likely to qualify for the student loan financial hardship program as long as you meet one of these prerequisites. If that is the case, and you would like to pursue the option, contact your lender or student loan servicer. Tell them you would like to apply for Economic Hardship Deferment. At this point, they typically ask you a series of questions and have you fill out an Economic Hardship Deferment Request form.
Pros and Cons of Economic Hardship Deferment
Pros
For someone who is in desperate need of reprieve from their student loan payments, the program can be a godsend. You may want to consider taking advantage of this program if the alternative is defaulting on student loans, which can have a long-lasting, detrimental effect on your credit score and history.
If your loans are subsidized, there is no cost to taking an Economic Hardship Deferment.
Periods of deferment are provided to borrowers who need time to find a job, increase their income, or recover from the many myriad of life events that could leave someone in a place of need. There is no shame in this, whatsoever, but it’s a great idea to use the deferment period to work on rebuilding.
Cons
With unsubsidized loans, taking a period of deferment will make the loans in question cost more over time. Even if you make interest payments during your deferment, you aren’t chipping away at the principal, and so all of those payments are essentially a wash. If you don’t make interest payments, the total value of those unpaid interest payments will be slapped on top of the loan balance, increasing your loan balance and the amount you’ll owe in interest, over time.
When the period of deferment ends, your monthly payment will likely be higher than it is now, which may be difficult for someone who is already experiencing financial hardship. Use the program if you need it, but know it can come with some costs in the long term.
It is also extremely difficult to qualify for Economic Hardship Deferment. The program utilizes stringent criteria to determine eligibility with income review using poverty level guidelines as noted above. (For example, a single person working full-time and earning $20,000 per year and living in California who is not already on food stamps or other forms of government assistance would probably not qualify for Economic Hardship Deferment.) This makes the program unavailable to many people who are legitimately having difficulty making their loan payments.
Alternatives to Economic Hardship Deferment
Forbearance
If you do not qualify for Economic Hardship Deferment, an option is to request forbearance. Forbearance is similar to deferment, though interest accrues in all cases, and periods of forbearance generally do not exceed 12 months (and could be shorter). You’ll need to check with your loan servicer to see if you qualify.
Income Driven Repayment Plans
There are four income-driven repayment plans, including the latest SAVE plan, that help make student loan payments more affordable by reducing them to a percentage of your discretionary income. SAVE, for example, caps your payments at 5% to 10% of your income, depending on the types of loans you have. Under other plans, your payments may be capped at anywhere from 10% to 20% of your income.
IDR plans also stretch your repayment timeline out up to 25 years. If you have any debt left over after than, it’s forgiven (though it may be subject to income taxes).
Though your monthly payments will be lower, which provides some immediate relief, you will pay significantly more in interest over time. It is possible to switch to an alternative repayment plan and back again if your financial situation improves.
Public Student Loan Forgiveness (PSLF) Program
With 10 years of on-time payments at a qualifying job (like a government worker, a teacher, a doctor, or nurse at a qualifying facility), it is possible to have student loans forgiven with the PSLF program. If you go this route, you’ll usually want to switch to an income-driven repayment plan.
Student Loan Refinancing
Another option to consider for both your federal and private student loans is student loan refinancing. Refinancing is the process of switching out your loan or multiple loans with one new loan at an (ideally) lower rate of interest.
The lower rate of interest could save you money on interest payments over the life of the loan. Use a student loan refinancing calculator to see how lower interest rates affect your monthly payments.
It’s important to know that if you refinance federal loans with a private lender, you will lose access to federal student loan programs such as Economic Hardship Deferment or PSLF.
With SoFi, refinancing is fast, easy, and all online. We offer competitive fixed and variable rates.
SoFi Student Loan Refinance If you are a federal student loan borrower, you should consider all of your repayment opportunities including the opportunity to refinance your student loan debt at a lower APR or to extend your term to achieve a lower monthly payment. Please note that once you refinance federal student loans you will no longer be eligible for current or future flexible payment options available to federal loan borrowers, including but not limited to income-based repayment plans or extended repayment plans.
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After a long year, tax season is finally upon us. You’re probably getting all your ducks in a row—collecting all the information you need, choosing your tax software, and so on. If you’re a homeowner, you might be able to catch a few tax breaks—but can you get a tax break for buying a house?
If you itemize your deductions via Schedule A rather than claiming the standard deduction, you could be eligible for one or more home-related tax breaks. And if you work from home, you might be able to claim a home office deduction (more on that later). The information below is general information regarding these deductions. It is always best to consult a tax professional if you have any questions related to your specific situation.
Deductions vs. Credits
Many people mistake deductions for credits—but they’re not the same thing. Let’s take a closer look at both types of tax breaks.
Deduction
Deductions reduce your taxable income according to the highest federal income tax bracket you fall into. So, if you qualify for a $2,000 deduction, the amount of money you can be taxed on will be reduced by $2,000.
There are two types of deductions: standard and itemized. Standard deductions are specific amounts based on your filing status and are updated annually. Itemized deductions are specific amounts you paid during the taxable year and you should use itemized deductions when your total of allowable itemized deductions is higher than the standard deduction.
Credit
Credits lower your income tax liability by a fixed dollar amount. If you qualify for a $500 tax credit, you pay $500 less in taxes.
Good to know: Some tax credits are nonrefundable, so if you don’t owe a lot of tax to begin with, you don’t qualify for the entire credit. Other tax credits, like the Earned Income Tax Credit, are refundable, so you get the entire amount under any tax circumstances. The remaining amount of credit available that wasn’t needed to pay down your tax bill comes to you in your tax refund.
Nondeductible Home Expenses
Unfortunately, some homeownership expenses just aren’t deductible. These include:
Closing costs (title insurance, appraisals, etc.)
Depreciation
Domestic service
Down payment
Fire insurance
Mortgage insurance premiums
Mortgage principal
Utilities such as gas, electricity, and water
Common Homeownership Deductions
If you itemize your deductions, there are several homeownership deductions available.
Home Mortgage Interest Deduction
Arguably the most well-known tax break for homeowners, the home mortgage interest deduction (HMID) lets you deduct interest paid on your mortgage up to $750,000 (or $375,000 if married filing separately).
If you take out a home equity loan or a home equity line of credit (HELOC) to make home improvements or buy or build a primary or secondary residence, you can deduct the interest through 2025.
You can claim this deduction on Form 1040, Schedule A.
Property Tax Deduction
Do you pay property taxes monthly or yearly? In either case, both state and federal property taxes are tax deductible on your federal return. For tax year 2023, the deduction amount is capped at $10,000 for married couples filing jointly and $5,000 for other tax statuses.
You can also claim taxes paid at closing when you buy or sell your home and certain payments made to town or county tax assessors. However, you can’t claim taxes paid on commercial or rental property.
To claim this deduction, report your total state and local income taxes in box 5a on Schedule A of Form 1040.
Mortgage Points Deductions
A homebuyer can purchase mortgage points, also called discount points, at the time of closing to lower their interest rate. For example, buying one point may lower your interest rate by 0.25%.
You can either deduct these points in the year in which you opened the mortgage or over the mortgage term. There are limitations, which you can view on the IRS website.
You can file for this deduction using Form 1040, Schedule A.
Home Office Deduction
If you’re self-employed and work from home, you can claim a home office deduction. To do so, you have to prove that you’ve used a portion of your home exclusively for business purposes. In other words, your office or another “separately identifiable space” counts, but your bedroom doesn’t—even if you work on your laptop in bed. Voluntary, occasional, or incidental freelance work won’t entitle you to a home office deduction.
There are occasions where you don’t need to meet the exclusive-use test. These include:
If you use part of your home as a day care facility for children, disabled adults, or elderly individuals
If you use part of your home to store physical inventory or product samples
Deductible expenses include:
Refurbishment and repair costs
Depreciation
A portion of your rent or mortgage payment
A portion of your utility bill
Business insurance
Office supplies
You can’t deduct landscaping or lawn care costs unless you’re a gardener or you’re in the lawn care business.
You can also consider using the simplified method for claiming your home office. That allows you to deduct $5 per square foot of your home used for business purposes. Often, this is a much more convenient way to deduct your home office versus taking the time to itemize each of your expenses.
Important: Before 2017, traditional employees could claim unreimbursed employee business expenses that exceeded 2% of their adjusted gross income on their tax return, including home office expenses. The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act eliminated that option until at least 2026. So, if you have an employer, you can’t currently write off any unreimbursed expenses related to your home office.
To claim this deduction, you’ll need to complete Form 8829, Expenses for Business Use of Your Home as part of your tax return.
Rental Expenses Deduction
If you rent your home, you can deduct some landlord expenses on your taxes, including operating expenses, depreciation, and repairs.
You can only deduct costs associated with keeping the rental in good operating condition. For example, you could deduct the cost of repairing a full bathroom that flooded, but you couldn’t deduct the cost of renovating a half bath into a full bath.
To claim this deduction, complete Form 4562, Depreciation and Amortization (Including Information on Listed Property).
Medical Capital Expense Deduction
If you have a medical condition that requires you to make improvements to your home or install special equipment, you may be eligible to deduct some or all of their cost.
Common capital expense deductions include:
Constructing ramps to exterior doors to make entering and exiting the home easier
Widening doorways or hallways to allow for wheelchairs or other mobility equipment
Installing railings, support bars, and other bathroom safety modifications
Lowering or modifying cabinets to make them usable
Installing a lift or otherwise modifying stairways
Modifying warning systems, such as fire alarms and smoke detectors
To file this deduction, use Worksheet A Capital Expense Worksheet to determine your medical capital expenses and enter the total on your Schedule A (Form 1040).
Common Homeownership Credits
As a homeowner, you may also qualify for specific homeownership tax credits.
Mortgage Interest Credit
Some lower-income first-time homeowners may receive a Mortgage Credit Certificate (MCC) from their state or local government, subsidizing the purchase of their home up to $2,000 on mortgage interest.
This credit comes with a few stipulations. For example, you’ll have to deduct the total amount of the credit from the mortgage interest you deduct. See the instructions page of Form 8396 for a complete list of stipulations. You’ll need to submit this as part of your tax return to claim the credit.
Residential Clean Energy Credit
Formally the Residential Energy Efficient Property Credit, the Residential Clean Energy Credit has a credit rate of 30% through 2032 and can cover costs related to renovating or building a home that runs on clean energy.
Specific limitations vary based on the type of improvements made, but they can apply to:
Solar electricity
Solar water heating
Small wind energy
Geothermal heat pumps
Biomass fuel
Fuel cells
See the IRS website for more details.
To claim the credit, complete Form 5695, Residential Energy Credits Part I as part of your tax return.
Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit
If you improve your home’s energy efficiency, you may qualify for the Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit.
Qualifying improvements include:
Building envelope components
Home energy audits
Residential energy property (i.e., central air conditioners that meet the Consortium for Energy Efficient (CEE) highest efficiency tier)
Heat pumps and biomass stoves and boilers
Each improvement has specific limits and guidelines. Learn more at the IRS website.
To claim the credit, complete Form 5695, Residential Energy Credits Part II as part of your tax return.
Alternative Fuel Vehicle Refueling Property Credit
Owners of electric vehicles may opt to add a charging station to their home. If you did so in 2023, you may qualify for the Alternative Fuel Vehicle Refueling Property Credit when you file your taxes. However, currently, this credit applies only to homes in low-income or urban areas.
To claim the credit, complete Form 8911.
A Word About Capital Gains
Many people worry about the amount of capital gains tax they’ll pay on a home sale. If you plan to sell your primary home and believe you’ll make a profit, you can exclude up to $250,000 of the gain from your income, or $500,000 if you file a joint return with your spouse. But there’s a catch: You have to have lived at the home for a minimum period of two years before the sale.
How Much Does Buying a House Help With Taxes?
Do you get a tax break for buying a house? It depends! Based on your tax situation, you could take advantage of various tax breaks available to homeowners.
Most homeowner credits and deductions only apply if you itemize your return—and you’ll only know whether itemization is worth it after you complete your tax forms. If you’re looking for a simple solution for filing your taxes, use TaxAct. As you enter information into your return, TaxAct will recommend whether itemizing your deductions or claiming the standard deduction is better for you.
You don’t have to wait for tax season to save money! Get your free credit report card from Credit.com. See where you need to work to start improving your credit to prepare for home ownership.
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There’s a reason people are cautioned to make sure they’re on solid financial ground before diving into homeownership. The cost of owning property extends far beyond just the expense of a monthly mortgage payment.
In addition to the money you have to send your mortgage lender every month, you’re required to pay for homeowners insurance, maintenance, repairs, and property taxes. And in some states, the latter can be quite expensive.
Take New Jersey, for example. Known for its soaring property taxes, the median homeowner bill in that category was $8,797, as of 2022.
Now, the good news is that homeowners who itemize on their tax returns can take a deduction for property taxes. The bad news, though, is that homeowners in high-tax states may not be able to write off their property tax bills in full.
Your deduction is capped at $10,000
As a result of the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act, the state and local tax deduction (otherwise known as the SALT deduction) is now capped at $10,000 regardless of your state of residence. This means the maximum deduction you can take for property taxes and state income taxes combined is $10,000.
It’s worth noting that the $10,000 limit applies to federal taxes. States can set their own limits for deducting property taxes, and in some states, the threshold is higher than $10,000.
More: Check out our picks for the best mortgage lenders
But still, if you’re someone with a $12,000 property tax bill, you automatically don’t get to deduct $2,000 of that total on your federal tax return under the current rules. If you pay $8,000 a year in property taxes and $7,000 a year in state income taxes, you similarly lose out on a deduction to some degree due to the $10,000 SALT cap.
But that $10,000 cap may not last forever. And come 2026, owning a home in a high property tax state may be more affordable.
The rules might change
The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act limited the SALT deduction to $10,000. But that rule is currently set to expire in 2025 unless lawmakers determine otherwise. As such, come 2026, it’s possible that as a homeowner, you may be able to take a larger tax deduction for your property taxes. And that could result in a world of financial relief.
Granted, this potential change may not impact you if you live in a state with no income tax and your current property tax bill is something like $3,500. But for residents of states with higher property taxes, this change could be huge.
You can also appeal your property taxes
At this point, it’s too soon to know whether the $10,000 SALT cap is here to stay for the long haul. But you should also know that you’re not necessarily stuck with the property tax bill you’re assessed.
As a homeowner, you have the right to appeal your property taxes. The process for doing so differs from state to state, but your local tax assessor should be able to walk you through the process of filing an appeal where you live.
To win a property tax appeal, though, you have to prove that the value being assigned to your home by your local tax assessor is higher than the home’s true market value. At a time when home prices are up on a national scale, that may be tough to do.
However, if the real estate market cools off in the coming months or years, fighting your property tax bill may be more doable. If your home is assessed at $500,000, and you can find proof that comparable homes in your neighborhood sold recently for $420,000, you have a case.
If the SALT cap limit expires in 2025 as it’s currently scheduled to do, then you may find that you’re eligible for a larger tax deduction in 2026. However, don’t go into homeownership now banking on a larger tax write-off in 2026. Instead, crunch the numbers to make sure you can afford the full cost of homeownership — regardless of whether the SALT deduction becomes more valuable in the future.