Homeowners 62 and older saw their collective home equity levels drop in the fourth quarter of 2023 by roughly $119 billion to $12.84 trillion, the third quarterly fall in the last year.
This is according to the Reverse Mortgage Market Index (RMMI), a measure of senior-held home equity from the National Reverse Mortgage Lenders Association (NRMLA) and data analytics firm RiskSpan.
The RMMI fell to 449.02 in Q4, a slight decline from the Q3 level of 453.19. Senior home values fell from $15.28 trillion in Q3 to $15.18 trillion in Q4, which could have been driven by an increase in senior-held mortgage debt to $19.8 billion.
RiskSpan’s analysis of the data asserted that this drop corresponds with a seasonal downturn in overall home sales, according to an email alert distributed to NRMLA’s membership.
The RMMI is often cited by reverse mortgage companies as a sign of the unrealized market potential of the industry. During Finance of America Companies Q4 earnings presentation last week, the company cited the Q3 2023 RMMI figure of $13.08 trillion as indicative of the potential for the home to serve as a senior’s “greatest retirement asset.”
Senior homeowners were big beneficiaries of the run-up in home prices observed during the COVID-19 pandemic. In 2011, the collective level of senior-held equity sat at roughly $3 trillion while in Q3 2021, the RMMI index rose by 4%, topping $10 trillion for the first time, while the index grew by 3.98% in Q4 2021. The RMMI grew by 4.91% during Q1 2022 — when it first topped $11 trillion. In Q2 2022, the RMMI grew by 4.10%.
The collective senior housing wealth figure reached a threshold of over $9 trillion for the first time in July 2021, and $8 trillion for the first time in April 2021. It had previously topped $7 trillion for the first time in March 2019.
President Joe Biden, in his ongoing crusade against hidden junk fees, has so far cracked down on event ticketing, airlines, financial companies and rental housing. The next target: junk fees at colleges and in student lending.
On Friday, the Biden administration announced several new actions to alleviate the burden of these superfluous fees. The most significant would be the elimination of origination fees for federal student loans — if it passes muster with Congress.
“We feel strongly that there are times where the American consumer is kind of played for a sucker,” says Neera Tanden, domestic policy advisor to Biden. “There’s a hidden fee or there’s some way in which a company or an entity is basically using its market power to make you pay a fee that you shouldn’t have to.”
Junk fees are the label given to the irksome and often surprise surcharges to what you’re already paying for. This includes things like credit card late fees, overdraft fees at banks, amenity and resort fees at hotels, service fees for event ticketing or food delivery, as well as seat selection fees on airlines. For over a year, the Biden administration has taken several actions to curb junk fees and surface hidden fees.
End student loan origination fees
On the student lending side, Biden would eliminate the student loan origination fee as part of his 2025 budget proposal.
Origination fees are the percentage of the loan amount that’s considered a processing fee. The fee ends up being tacked on to loan balances, which means borrowers would pay interest on the fee over the life of the loan. Origination fee rates range from 1% for undergraduate loans to 4% for graduate and parent PLUS loans.
Tanden, who spoke with NerdWallet in an exclusive interview, calls origination fees a “relic of the past” when private lenders originated student loans backed by the government, which hasn’t been the case since 2010 when the federal government began exclusively lending directly rather than guaranteeing loans made by private financial institutions. She adds that there’s no current rationale for it in federal student lending.
Borrowers collectively spend more than $1 billion annually on origination fees, according to a release by the administration. However, Biden can’t get rid of origination fees unless Congress approves it as part of the nation’s 2025 budget.
Tanden says she hopes the proposal will be treated as a nonpartisan issue. “We know that Republicans have welcomed ways to cut back on taxes for people,” she says. “This is really just a tax on student borrowing.”
If origination fees are eliminated, it would impact future student loans only, not existing debt.
Eliminate junk fees with student banking products
The college-related fees Biden is targeting include “high and unusual fees” associated with student financial products. Colleges and universities often offer bank accounts and credit cards as part of affiliations with financial institutions. These fees include insufficient funds fees, maintenance fees and closure fees.
Biden wants to block financial companies that partner with colleges to disburse Title IV funds (such as student loans) from charging fees to students. The administration says these junk fees are out of step since banks have largely phased them out.
The measure to end junk fees for college banking and student credit cards is currently in the formal process known as negotiated rulemaking. Though it doesn’t require approval by Congress, don’t expect a change anytime soon.
Empower students to authorize tuition charges for textbooks
Many colleges and universities have long included textbooks as part of students’ tuition bills. That means that the charge is automatically included and students have to pay for course materials regardless of the actual costs available on the market. Students might be able to find textbooks cheaper somewhere else, but colleges still bundle those anticipated costs as part of tuition.
Biden is proposing that students be required to authorize a charge on their tuition bill for textbooks and other required materials for their courses. The administration says these changes would provide students with the opportunity to do a cost comparison to find the cheapest options or eliminate the cost altogether by accessing free open-source textbooks.
“The college has a lot of power and sway and these are ways that, you know, essentially consumers — your students — are forced to pay for things that they should be able to look at cheaper costs,” says Tanden.
These changes are also in the negotiated rulemaking process and don’t require congressional approval.
Require colleges to return unused ‘flex dollars’ and meal plans
Students are often required to purchase meal plans with their college or university, which are used for dining hall meals or as “flex dollars” to pay for food elsewhere on campus. But at the end of each semester, schools can rescind any remaining funds. That means students must spend the money before the semester ends or forfeit what they’ve already paid for — often with student loans.
“Students are often taking on debt in their college years to pay for the cost of living, as well as their tuition, and because of interest that could grow in cost,” says Tanden.
The Biden administration would halt colleges from taking leftover funds and instead require them to return the remaining dollars to students.
The administration announced it is now formally considering this regulation. It would need to move through the negotiated rulemaking process and wouldn’t need approval by Congress.
Photo by Drew Angerer/Getty Images News via Getty Images
President Joe Biden, in his ongoing crusade against hidden junk fees, has so far cracked down on event ticketing, airlines, financial companies and rental housing. The next target: junk fees at colleges and in student lending.
On Friday, the Biden administration announced several new actions to alleviate the burden of these superfluous fees. The most significant would be the elimination of origination fees for federal student loans — if it passes muster with Congress.
“We feel strongly that there are times where the American consumer is kind of played for a sucker,” says Neera Tanden, domestic policy advisor to Biden. “There’s a hidden fee or there’s some way in which a company or an entity is basically using its market power to make you pay a fee that you shouldn’t have to.”
Junk fees are the label given to the irksome and often surprise surcharges to what you’re already paying for. This includes things like credit card late fees, overdraft fees at banks, amenity and resort fees at hotels, service fees for event ticketing or food delivery, as well as seat selection fees on airlines. For over a year, the Biden administration has taken several actions to curb junk fees and surface hidden fees.
End student loan origination fees
On the student lending side, Biden would eliminate the student loan origination fee as part of his 2025 budget proposal.
Origination fees are the percentage of the loan amount that’s considered a processing fee. The fee ends up being tacked on to loan balances, which means borrowers would pay interest on the fee over the life of the loan. Origination fee rates range from 1% for undergraduate loans to 4% for graduate and parent PLUS loans.
Tanden, who spoke with NerdWallet in an exclusive interview, calls origination fees a “relic of the past” when private lenders originated student loans backed by the government, which hasn’t been the case since 2010 when the federal government began exclusively lending directly rather than guaranteeing loans made by private financial institutions. She adds that there’s no current rationale for it in federal student lending.
Borrowers collectively spend more than $1 billion annually on origination fees, according to a release by the administration. However, Biden can’t get rid of origination fees unless Congress approves it as part of the nation’s 2025 budget.
Tanden says she hopes the proposal will be treated as a nonpartisan issue. “We know that Republicans have welcomed ways to cut back on taxes for people,” she says. “This is really just a tax on student borrowing.”
If origination fees are eliminated, it would impact future student loans only, not existing debt.
Eliminate junk fees with student banking products
The college-related fees Biden is targeting include “high and unusual fees” associated with student financial products. Colleges and universities often offer bank accounts and credit cards as part of affiliations with financial institutions. These fees include insufficient funds fees, maintenance fees and closure fees.
Biden wants to block financial companies that partner with colleges to disburse Title IV funds (such as student loans) from charging fees to students. The administration says these junk fees are out of step since banks have largely phased them out.
The measure to end junk fees for college banking and student credit cards is currently in the formal process known as negotiated rulemaking. Though it doesn’t require approval by Congress, don’t expect a change anytime soon.
Empower students to authorize tuition charges for textbooks
Many colleges and universities have long included textbooks as part of students’ tuition bills. That means that the charge is automatically included and students have to pay for course materials regardless of the actual costs available on the market. Students might be able to find textbooks cheaper somewhere else, but colleges still bundle those anticipated costs as part of tuition.
Biden is proposing that students be required to authorize a charge on their tuition bill for textbooks and other required materials for their courses. The administration says these changes would provide students with the opportunity to do a cost comparison to find the cheapest options or eliminate the cost altogether by accessing free open-source textbooks.
“The college has a lot of power and sway and these are ways that, you know, essentially consumers — your students — are forced to pay for things that they should be able to look at cheaper costs,” says Tanden.
These changes are also in the negotiated rulemaking process and don’t require congressional approval.
Require colleges to return unused ‘flex dollars’ and meal plans
Students are often required to purchase meal plans with their college or university, which are used for dining hall meals or as “flex dollars” to pay for food elsewhere on campus. But at the end of each semester, schools can rescind any remaining funds. That means students must spend the money before the semester ends or forfeit what they’ve already paid for — often with student loans.
“Students are often taking on debt in their college years to pay for the cost of living, as well as their tuition, and because of interest that could grow in cost,” says Tanden.
The Biden administration would halt colleges from taking leftover funds and instead require them to return the remaining dollars to students.
The administration announced it is now formally considering this regulation. It would need to move through the negotiated rulemaking process and wouldn’t need approval by Congress.
Photo by Drew Angerer/Getty Images News via Getty Images
After a few real-life conversations and my running the math, I’ve decided that a “50/50” rule for college saving achieves the best of both worlds.
The rule is:
~50% of your college savings goals should be saved via a 529 plan.
The other ~50% should be saved via a taxable brokerage account.
Why is that the case? Let’s discuss what we do and don’t want from our college savings plan.
PS – if you want further background reading on 529 plans, here are some other useful articles…
What We Do and Don’t Want from College Savings
We do want to save for college. Ground-breaking stuff.
We do want to reduce our income taxes.
We do want our investments to grow tax-free.
We do want flexibility while we save, in case life throws us a curveball.
We don’t want to end up with permanently frozen assets. We don’t want “leftover” 529 dollars.
529 College Savings Plans offer some of these ideals. But not all.
In fact, 529 plans are terrible at achieving some of the abovementioned goals.
Reducing Income Taxes
Many states offer income tax deductions on 529 contributions. In New York, for example, the first $10,000 contributed to 529s per year is exempt from state tax. That’s a ~$600 annual savings (depending on tax bracket).
Tax-Free Growth
529 investments grow tax-free, just like 401(k) or IRA assets. There’s no annual tax on dividends and interest. This leaves more dollars behind to compound.
Let’s Measure That Tax Savings
If we apply these two tax advantages to a reasonable scenario**, it’s realistic to expect a 529 account to result in 15-20% more dollars for college than a taxable brokerage account.
**see this Google sheet for detail.
But taxable brokerage accounts have distinct advantages on our other ideals.
Flexibility & “Frozen” Assets
Taxable accounts are very flexible. You can withdraw from them anytime (e.g. during an unexpected emergency). 529 dollars, on the other hand, must be spent on educational expenses and cannot be withdrawn for other reasons.
What if your kid decides to skip college? Unused funds in a 529 can be impossible to withdraw without taxes and penalties. Taxable accounts avoid this situation.
What’s the 529 Withdrawal Penalty?
Every 529 withdrawal—whether for education purposes or not—is made pro rata between your contributions and your earnings. The contributions are never taxed and never penalized, but the earnings can be if your withdrawal is not for a qualified educational expense.
For example:
Your 529 plan has $100,000 of contributions and $50,000 of earnings. (Two-thirds and one-third)
You make a $30,000 withdrawal. You have no choice in that $20,000 will come from contributions and $10,000 will come from earnings (Two-thirds and one-third)
If your withdrawal is not for qualified education expenses, the $10,000 earnings portion will be taxed as income (more marginal tax dollars, ouch!) and will suffer a 10% penalty.
If you run the math, you’ll see this penalty eats away at all the 529’s tax benefits. You do not want to suffer this penalty.
Finding Balance Between 529 and Taxable
The question is how to balance these various pros and cons. The 50/50 Rule does so!
Let’s say you aim to gift your children $100,000 over their four years of college. How generous! I submit you should aim to have:
$50,000 of that gift coming from a 529
And $50,000 from a taxable brokerage
You know it won’t be a perfectly ideal scenario. Whatever reality throws at you, you’ll wish you had decided to go all-in on the 529 or all-in on the taxable.
But you don’t know the future! This fact – that we’re more mortals without a crystal ball – is one of the fundamental frustrations in financial planning. If we knew the future, we could make a perfect financial plan. But we don’t, so we can’t. Our best solutions, therefore, involve hedging our bets. We’d rather know we’re 50% correct than be surprised later we’re 100% wrong.
The 50/50 Rule guarantees a middle-of-the-road solution. You’ll capture tax benefits and retain flexibility.
If Johnny gets a little scholarship and only needs 70% of your saved money, great! Use the 529 dollars completely. Dip into the taxable account when needed, and keep the remaining taxable dollars for other goals in life. You’ll be confident your 529 account will be completely drained, avoiding frustrating taxes and penalties.
Does It Have to Be 50/50?
I’ll admit: dividing the two accounts down the middle, 50/50, is an easy shorthand. You can choose a different fraction. But when thinking it through, my primary concerns are:
You need to be confident you’ll drain the 529s. If Johnny’s college will cost $200,000 and you aim to have all $200,000 in a 529, I don’t like that. There’s no margin for error.
You want to have a large enough portion in the taxable account to provide “just in case” flexibility.
Maybe 75/25 makes more sense for you. I can get on board with that. But I wouldn’t go much higher than 75% from the 529.
Working Backward
You can work backward from your future goal to discover what today’s saving rates need to be. In our hypothetical scenario of $50K in a 529 and $50K in a taxable (for college in ~15 years, we’ll say), a reasonable starting point is to put $2000 per year (or ~$170 per month) into each account. That’s how the math shakes out.
Depending on your timeline and assumed rate of compound growth, a simple spreadsheet or question to your financial planner will inform what your savings plan should be.
Thank you for reading! If you enjoyed this article, join 8000+ subscribers who read my 2-minute weekly email, where I send you links to the smartest financial content I find online every week.
-Jesse
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Are you eligible for the zero-down USDA home loan?
What if you could secure a USDA home loan that allows you to buy a house with no down payment, competitive mortgage rates, and reduced mortgage insurance costs?
It might sound like a dream, but it’s entirely possible with the USDA mortgage program. Designed to assist low- and moderate-income Americans in becoming homeowners, USDA loans provide incredibly affordable financing options for eligible buyers.
Essentially, USDA mortgages empower individuals to transition from renting to owning, even when they thought homeownership was out of reach.
Verify your USDA loan eligibility. Start here
In this article (Skip to…)
>Related: How to buy a house with $0 down: First-time home buyer
What is a USDA loan?
USDA loans are mortgages backed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture as part of its Rural Development Guaranteed Housing Loan program. The USDA offers financing with no down payment, reduced mortgage insurance, and below-market mortgage rates.
Verify your USDA loan eligibility. Start here
The USDA mortgage program is intended for home buyers with low-to-average household incomes. In order to qualify, you must also purchase a home in a “rural area” as the USDA defines it. Those who are eligible can use a USDA mortgage to buy a home or refinance one they already own.
USDA loans offer nearly unbeatable benefits for qualified borrowers. So if this program sounds like a good fit for you, it’s worth getting in touch with a participating lender to find out if you’re eligible.
How do USDA loans work?
The U.S. Department of Agriculture insures USDA loans. Thanks to government guarantees and subsidies, lenders can offer 100% financing and below-market interest rates without taking on too much risk.
Verify your USDA loan eligibility. Start here
Although the USDA backs this program, it typically isn’t the one lending money. Instead, private lenders are authorized to offer USDA loans. That means you can get a USDA mortgage from many mainstream banks, mortgage lenders, and credit unions.
The application process for a USDA mortgage works just like any other home loan. You’ll compare rates and choose a lender, complete an application (often online), provide financial documents, wait for the lender’s approval, and then set a closing day.
The only exception is for very low-income borrowers, who may qualify for a USDA Direct home loan. In this case, you’d go straight to the Department of Agriculture to apply rather than to a private lender.
Types of USDA loans
For eligible individuals and families looking to buy, build, or renovate a home in a rural area, the USDA offers three main mortgage loan types. The loan programs are as follows:.
Verify your USDA loan eligibility. Start here
USDA Guaranteed Loans
Approved private lenders, such as banks and mortgage companies, provide USDA loan guarantees to qualified borrowers. A USDA guaranteed loan is one in which the government backs a portion of the loan, lowering the lender’s risk and allowing them to offer more favorable terms to the borrower. These loans frequently have low interest rates, no down payment, and more lenient credit requirements. The property must be in an eligible rural area as the USDA defines it, and borrowers must meet household income requirements that vary depending on location and household size.
USDA Direct Loans
The USDA also offers the Single Family Housing Direct loan through the Section 502 Direct Loan Program. These loans are meant to help low-income families buy, build, or fix up small homes in rural areas. The USDA, rather than private lenders, provides funding for direct loans as opposed to guaranteed loans. These loans have favorable terms, such as low interest rates (as low as 1% with payment assistance) and long repayment periods (up to 38 years for eligible applicants). Income, creditworthiness, and the property’s location in an eligible rural area determine eligibility for direct loans.
USDA Home Improvement Loan
The USDA’s Single Family Housing Repair Loans and Grants program, also known as the Section 504 program, provides financing for home improvements. This program provides low-interest, fixed-rate loans and grants to low-income rural homeowners for necessary home repairs, improvements, and modifications that make their homes safer, more energy-efficient, and more accessible. However, if you’re looking for one, you might have a difficult time finding this type of USDA home loan. They are not widely available from lenders.
USDA loan eligibility requirements
To be eligible for a USDA home loan, you’ll need to meet a number of requirements that vary depending on whether you are applying for a USDA loan guarantee or a USDA direct loan.
Verify your USDA loan eligibility. Start here
Some general requirements, however, apply to all USDA loans, specifically those based on both buyer and property eligibility.
USDA loan property requirements
Eligible rural area
The USDA defines an eligible area in rural America as having a population of 20,000 or fewer. To check if the property you’re considering falls within these designated areas, the USDA’s eligibility site provides all the necessary information. We also provide a USDA eligibility map below.
Single-family primary residence
USDA loans are exclusively available for primary residences. Neither investment properties nor second homes are eligible for this program.
Meet safety standards
The property must adhere to the USDA’s minimum property requirements, which focus on safety, structural integrity, and adequate access to utilities and services.
USDA loan borrower requirements
Income limits
You must meet USDA monthly income limits, meaning your household income can’t exceed 115% of the area median income. Conforming to USDA income eligibility requirements ensures the program is accessible to those it’s intended to serve.
Stable income
Applicants are required to demonstrate a stable and dependable income, typically for at least 24 months, before applying. This helps ensure borrowers can maintain their loan payments.
Creditworthiness
Although USDA loans are known for their flexible credit requirements, creditworthiness is still important. Lenders usually seek a minimum credit score of 640 for guaranteed loans, with USDA Direct Loans potentially having more lenient criteria.
Debt-to-income ratio
Your monthly debt, including future mortgage payments, generally should not exceed 41% of your gross monthly income. However, lenders may make exceptions based on credit score and available cash reserves.
Citizenship status
Applicants need to be U.S. citizens, U.S. non-citizen nationals, or qualified aliens with a valid Social Security number to qualify for a USDA loan.
USDA loan eligibility map
The USDA eligibility map is a valuable online resource for potential borrowers. It helps them identify if a property is situated in an area of rural America that qualifies for USDA home loans.
Verify your USDA loan eligibility. Start here
Users can enter a specific address or explore areas of the map to see if they qualify for USDA guaranteed loans or direct loans by using this interactive map.
1 Source: USDAloans.com, based on Housing Assistance Council data
USDA loan rates
Compared to other home loan programs, USDA mortgage interest rates are some of the lowest available.
Check your USDA loan rates. Start here
The VA loan, specifically tailored for veterans and service members, stands alongside the USDA loan as one of the few government-backed loan programs offering competitively low rates. Due in large part to the security that government subsidies and guarantees provide, both the USDA and VA programs are able to offer interest rates below the market average.
Other mortgage programs, like the FHA loan and conventional loan, can have rates around 0.5%–0.75% higher than USDA rates on average. That said, mortgage rates are personal. Getting a USDA loan doesn’t necessarily mean your rate will be “below-market” or match the USDA loan rates advertised.
How to get the best USDA mortgage rates
Strengthening your financial standing is essential for obtaining the best USDA loan rates. Here are some helpful techniques for improving your personal finances:
Boost your credit score.Improving your credit score is an important step toward getting the best USDA loan rates. Taking steps to improve your credit score before applying for a USDA loan often proves beneficial.
Consider a down payment. While a down payment is not required for USDA loans, it can demonstrate to the lender your commitment to repaying the loan. This could also help lenders find your application more appealing.
Minimize existing debt.Lowering your debt-to-income ratio (DTI) by paying off existing high-interest debts can make you more appealing to lenders. It demonstrates that you are capable of handling your loan and making payments on time.
Shop around for lenders.Exploring loan options with multiple participating lenders is a smart move that can save you thousands of dollars over the life of the loan. Comparing their interest rates, fees, closing costs, and loan terms can help you identify the most appealing offer. It’s possible that first-time home buyers will find better options than what USDA loans can offer.
USDA loan costs
When it comes to financing a home purchase with a USDA loan, it’s not just the mortgage rate that you need to consider. You’ll be responsible for various fees and costs, which can add up over time. Understanding these costs upfront can help you make a more informed decision and plan your budget accordingly.
Here’s a breakdown of the expenses you can expect:.
USDA mortgage insurance
The USDA guarantees its mortgage loans, meaning it offers protection to approved mortgage lenders in case borrowers default. But the program is partially self-funded. To keep this loan program running, the USDA charges homeowner-paid mortgage insurance premiums.
Verify your USDA loan eligibility. Start here
Upfront guarantee fee
One of the first costs you’ll encounter is the upfront guarantee fee. This fee is a percentage of the loan amount and is required by the USDA to secure the loan. It’s usually around 1% but can vary. You can either pay this fee upfront or roll it into the loan balance.
Annual guarantee fee
Unlike conventional loans that may not require mortgage insurance, USDA loans come with a monthly mortgage insurance premium. You can expect to pay a 0.35% annual guarantee fee based on the remaining principal balance each year.
The annual fee is broken into 12 installments and included in your regular mortgage payment.
As a real-life example, a home buyer with a $100,000 loan size would have a $1,000 upfront mortgage insurance cost plus a monthly payment of $29.17 for the annual mortgage insurance. USDA upfront mortgage insurance is not paid in cash. It’s added to your loan balance, so you pay it over time.
Inspection fees
Before the loan is approved, the property will need to be inspected to ensure it meets USDA property eligibility requirements. This inspection can cost anywhere from $300 to $500, depending on the location and size of the home.
Closing Costs
Closing costs are a mix of fees that include loan origination fees, appraisal fees, title search fees, and more. These costs can range from 2% to 5% of the home’s purchase price. Some of these costs can be rolled into the loan amount, but it’s best to be prepared to pay some of them out-of-pocket.
How to apply for a USDA home loan
Qualifying for a USDA home loan can be a great way to finance a home, especially if you’re looking to buy in a rural area. These loans offer attractive benefits like zero down payments and competitive interest rates.
However, the USDA loan approval process involves several steps and specific eligibility criteria. Here’s a guide on how to apply for a USDA home loan.
Check your USDA loan eligibility. Start here
Step 1: Check your eligibility
Before diving into the application process, it’s important to determine if you meet the USDA’s eligibility requirements. These typically include:
A minimum credit score of 640
A debt-to-income (DTI) ratio of up to 41%
Income limitations, which vary by location and household size
The property must be located in a USDA-eligible area
Step 2: Gather necessary documentation
You’ll need to provide various documents to prove your eligibility, including:
Proof of income eligibility (e.g., pay stubs, tax returns)
Employment verification
Credit history report
Personal identification (e.g., driver’s license, passport)
Step 3: Pre-Qualification
Contact a USDA-approved lender to get pre-qualified for a loan. During this qualifying process, the participating lender will review your financial situation to give you an estimate of how much you can borrow.
Check if you’re eligible for a USDA loan. Start here
Both pre-approval and pre-qualification can give you a better idea of your budget and show sellers that you are a serious buyer.
Step 4: Property search
Once pre-qualified, you can start looking for a property that meets USDA guidelines. Keep in mind that the home must be your primary residence and be located in an eligible rural area.
Working with a real estate agent who has experience with USDA loans can be a big advantage.
Step 5: USDA home loan application
After finding the right property, you’ll need to fill out the USDA loan application. Your lender will guide you through this process, which will include a more thorough review of your financial situation and the submission of additional documents.
Step 6: Property appraisal and inspection
The lender will arrange for an appraisal to ensure the property meets USDA standards. An inspection may also be required to identify any potential issues with the home.
Step 7: Loan approval and closing
Once the appraisal and inspection are complete and all documentation is verified, you’ll move on to the loan approval stage. If approved, you’ll proceed to closing, where you’ll sign all necessary paperwork and officially secure your USDA home loan.
With the loan secured and the keys in hand, you’re now ready to move into your new home!
By following these steps and working closely with a USDA-approved lender, you can navigate the USDA home loan process with confidence. Always remember to consult with your lender for the most accurate and personalized advice.
How do USDA loans compare to conventional loans?
USDA loans and conventional loans both have fixed terms and interest rates, but they’re different when it comes to down payments and fees.
Down payment
USDA loans don’t ask for a down payment, unlike conventional mortgages, which usually require a 3% down payment. FHA loans require a 3.5% down payment. VA loans, like USDA loans, also don’t require a down payment.
Home appraisal
Both USDA loans and conventional loans need an appraisal from an independent third party before the loan is approved.
The home appraisal for a conventional loan determines whether the loan amount and the home’s value match. If the loan amount doesn’t measure up to the market value of the home, the lender can’t get back their money just by selling the house. If you want to know more about the home’s condition, like the roof or appliances, you need to get a home inspector.
For a USDA loan, the appraisal does two things:
Just like with a conventional loan, it makes sure the home’s value is right for the loan amount.
It checks if the home meets USDA standards. This means the home should be ready to live in. For example, the roof and heating should work properly. The appraisal also looks at whether the well and septic systems follow USDA rules.
If you’re looking for a detailed report on the house, hiring a home inspector is still a good idea.
Fees
While conventional loans charge private mortgage insurance (PMI) when you make less than a 20% down payment, this isn’t the case with USDA loans. You don’t need PMI for USDA direct or guaranteed loans.
However, USDA guaranteed loans have a guarantee fee of 1% at closing and then an annual fee of 0.35% of the loan, added to your monthly payment. You can roll the initial fee into your loan amount.
Loan terms
The term for a USDA guaranteed loan is 30 years with a fixed rate. If you get a USDA direct loan, you can have up to 33 years to pay it back. If you’re a very low-income borrower, you might get up to 38 years to make it more affordable.
FAQ: USDA loans
Verify your USDA loan eligibility. Start here
What is the USDA Rural Housing Mortgage and who is eligible for it?
The USDA Rural Housing Mortgage, officially known as the Single Family Housing Guaranteed Loan Program, is a rural development loan aimed at helping single-family home buyers. It’s often referred to as a “Section 502” loan, based on the Housing Act of 1949 that created this program. Designed to stimulate growth in less-populated and low-income areas, this rural development loan is ideal for those looking to buy in eligible rural areas with the possibility of a zero-down payment.
What is the income limit for USDA home loans?
The income limit for USDA home loans is based on your area’s median income. To be eligible for a USDA loan, you can’t exceed the median income by more than 15 percent. For example, if the median salary in your city is $65,000 per year, you could qualify for a USDA loan with a salary of $74,750 or less.
Do USDA loans take longer to close?
USDA lenders have to send each loan file to the Department of Agriculture for approval before underwriting. This can add around two to three weeks to your loan processing time.
Can I do a cash-out refinance with the USDA program?
No, cash-out refinancing is not allowed in the USDA Rural Housing Program. Its loans are for home buying and rate-and-term refinances only.
What’s the maximum USDA mortgage loan size?
The USDA does not set loan limits, but your household income and debt-to-income ratio have a limit on the amount you can borrow. The USDA typically caps debt-to-income ratios at 41 percent. However, the program may be more lenient for borrowers with a credit score over 660 and stable employment or who show a demonstrated ability to save.
Where can I find a USDA loan lender, and what loan terms are available?
You can find a USDA loan lender by visiting the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s website, which maintains a list of approved lenders for the Rural Housing Program. The USDA Rural Housing loan offers a 30-year fixed-rate mortgage only, with no 15-year fixed option or adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM) program available.
Can I receive a gift or have the seller pay for my closing costs with a USDA loan?
Yes, USDA rural development loans allow both gifts from family members and non-family members for closing costs. Inform your loan officer as soon as possible if you’ll be using gifted funds, as it requires extra documentation and verification from the lender. Additionally, the USDA Rural Housing Program permits sellers to pay closing costs for buyers through seller concessions. These concessions may cover all or part of a purchase’s state and local government fees, lender costs, title charges, and various home and pest inspections.
Can I use the USDA loan for a vacation home, investment property, or working farm?
No, the USDA loan program is designed specifically for primary residences and cannot be used for vacation homes, investment properties, or working farms. The Rural Housing Program focuses on residential property financing.
Am I eligible for the USDA if I recently returned to work or am self-employed?
If you are a W-2 employee, you are eligible for USDA financing immediately, as there’s no job history requirement. However, if you have less than two years in a job, you may not be able to use your bonus income for qualification purposes. Self-employed individuals can also use the USDA Rural Housing Program. To verify your self-employment income, you will need to provide two years of federal tax returns, similar to the requirements for FHA and conventional financing.
Can I use the USDA loan program for home repairs, improvements, accessibility, and energy-efficiency upgrades?
Yes, the USDA loan program can be used for various purposes, including making eligible repairs and improvements to a home (such as replacing windows or appliances, preparing a site with trees, walks, and driveways, drawing fixed broadband service, and connecting utilities), permanently installing equipment to assist household members with physical disabilities, and purchasing and installing materials to improve a home’s energy efficiency (including windows, roofing, and solar panels).
Can a non-citizen qualify for a USDA loan?
Yes, along with U.S. citizens, legal permanent residents of the United States can also apply for a USDA loan.
Today’s USDA mortgage rates
USDA mortgage interest rates consistently rank among the lowest in the market, next to VA loans.
USDA loans can be particularly attractive to borrowers seeking optimal financial terms, especially in an environment with elevated interest rates. Prospective homebuyers who meet the criteria for a USDA loan may be able to secure a great deal right now.
To find out whether you qualify for one and what your rate is, consult with a trusted lender below.
Time to make a move? Let us find the right mortgage for you
1 Source: USDAloans.com, based on Housing Assistance Council data
Solar batteries store solar energy for use at another time. Manufactured by companies including Panasonic, LG, Generac and Tesla, a solar battery typically costs $12,000 to $22,000. Solar batteries may be a good choice if you’re looking to use less grid electricity or go off-grid completely
.
Solar battery pros and cons
Lower energy bills.
Expensive to purchase and replace.
Environmental benefits — reduced need for fossil fuel generated power/lower carbon footprint.
Limited energy storage capacity.
Long life span options. Many can last up to 20 years or longer.
Safety concerns if improperly installed, ventilated or maintained. Some types can overheat and catch fire.
Possible federal and state tax incentives.
Regular maintenance required on some types.
Provides backup energy in the event of a blackout, regardless of weather.
Some types can be bulky and take up a lot of space.
Can avoid high peak-use-hours charges.
Requires proper disposal.
Increased energy efficiency.
Some types, such as nickel-cadmium, may contain materials that are harmful to the environment.
Less dependency on the grid.
Renters don’t qualify for federal tax incentives.
Can operate in tandem with a grid-tie system.
Some require special equipment for installation.
Quiet power, unlike generators.
Some may emit harmful gasses.
Can also be used for microgrids and portable power units.
Not all battery types are readily available for residential systems.
How do solar batteries work?
When you pair your solar energy system with a solar battery, the surplus energy your system generates goes straight to the battery, where it’s stored for later use (as opposed to that surplus automatically being returned to the grid)
State of South Carolina Energy Office. Battery Back-up. Accessed Mar 11, 2024.
.The energy stored in your battery bank can then be used later when you need it most, such as during a power blackout. Here’s how it works:
Solar panels use photons from the sun to knock electrons away from atoms and generate an electrical flow.
The excess electricity generated by the solar panels is stored as direct current (DC) energy in the solar battery.
An inverter converts the DC energy to alternating current (AC) energy for home use — either as needed, if you have a DC-coupled conversion system — or immediately for instant use if you have an AC-coupled conversion system. Excess power in this type of system can be converted back to DC to charge the battery.
A solar system with a solar battery may include these basic components:
Ground or roof-mounted solar panels.
Battery bank.
Inverter that converts DC energy into AC energy for home use.
Junction box to connect solar panel wiring to the home breaker panel.
Charge controller to prevent battery overheating.
Utility meter for the battery bank.
Disconnect switch to prevent islanding (continuing to generate electricity and push it onto the grid) during blackouts. This protects electrical workers trying to restore power.
If your solar system is connected to the grid, you’ll also have an interconnection agreement with your utility provider.
Types of solar batteries
Here are some of the main types of batteries commonly used in solar systems.
Lead acid batteries
These reliable staples are the oldest type of solar batteries, and they are often used for off-grid applications. They’re the most affordable solar battery option, but they have a low energy density, meaning they can’t hold a lot of energy for their weight. Compared to other options, they’re large and heavy.
Pros
Dependable, time-tested technology.
Easy to recycle.
Lower priced than other types of solar batteries.
Compatible with most systems.
Cons
Heavier and bulkier than other types of solar batteries.
To preserve battery life, it’s recommended that you don’t let the battery capacity drop below 50%. Other types of batteries can drop to 10% capacity — and sometimes lower — without damaging the system.
Generally need maintenance such as adding water (unless sealed).
May emit gasses.
Shorter life span than other types of solar batteries.
Take longer to recharge than other types of solar batteries.
Contain harmful chemicals and they require proper disposal.
Lithium-ion batteries
Well-suited to residential solar systems, lithium-ion batteries offer a small, light and long-lasting solar battery option with a high energy density. This newer technology lets you access more of the battery’s stored energy before needing to recharge it, which is why this type of battery is common in laptops and mobile phones. If they’re not installed properly, however, lithium-ion batteries can catch fire. They’re also pricier than some other types of batteries.
Pros
Smaller and lighter than other battery types; work well in tight spaces.
Newer technology with improved battery capacity and efficiency.
Long life span.
Little or no maintenance required.
Fewer batteries needed for power.
Lithium-ion batteries have a high depth of discharge, meaning if the battery capacity drops to 10%, it won’t strain the system or cause the system to degrade.
Cons
High price.
Can catch fire if improperly installed.
Special equipment required for installation.
Nickel-cadmium batteries
Designed mostly for commercial solar systems, nickel-cadmium batteries are rare in smaller residential applications. Because some manufacturers are testing ni-cads for home systems, we may see more of them in the future. Nickel-cadmium batteries use older technology, are low maintenance and long-lasting, have a high discharge capacity and can work efficiently even in extreme temperatures. However, they’re also heavy and bulky, lose charge when they’re not used, are costly and contain toxins that are harmful to the planet when not properly disposed of. Some countries have banned their use.
Pros
Long life span of up to 20 years or more.
Nickel-cadmium batteries have a high depth of discharge, meaning if the battery capacity drops to 20%, it won’t strain the system or cause the system to degrade.
Perform well under extreme weather conditions.
Time-tested technology.
Low maintenance.
Cons
Power retention is lower than other battery types.
Not environmentally friendly.
Not typically available for residential solar systems.
Heavy and bulky.
Flow batteries
Engineered for large-scale use with very limited availability to homeowners, this new technology uses water-based electrolytes that flow between two internal tanks. Charging and discharging takes place through chemical reactions within the battery, and increasing the number of tanks can increase total energy storage capacity. Flow batteries are very efficient and have a 100% discharge capacity. They’re also long-lasting and use nontoxic, nonflammable materials. Unfortunately, they’re also heavy, large and expensive. They require a lot of maintenance and have a low power density.
Pros
Customizable.
Long life span of 20 years or more.
Nonflammable and nontoxic materials.
High efficiency with 100% discharge capacity.
Cons
Heavy/bulky.
Considered too expensive for residential use.
Low power density.
High maintenance.
Final considerations and how to choose a solar battery
Here are a few important factors to consider and compare:
Budget. Weigh affordability and durability, and be aware that less expensive lead-acid batteries won’t last as long as lithium-ion batteries, which are more expensive upfront.
Space. Choose batteries that fit in your available space.
Warranty: Look for a solid warranty from a reputable manufacturer.
Battery capacity. For maximum efficiency, be sure this is appropriate for your solar system’s energy production. There are two measurements to consider: Storage capacity is how much energy the battery can hold; usable capacity is the energy the battery can provide minus the energy needed to operate the battery.
Battery life span. Longer life spans save on battery replacement costs over time and lessen the impact on the environment.
Round-trip efficiency. This is the measure of how well your battery stores and retrieves energy and how efficient its operation is after it’s charged. The industry standard for this is about 80%
.
Depth of discharge: This is how much power a battery uses before you need to recharge it.
Maintenance. Lower-priced battery options such as lead-acid typically require more maintenance, and you’ll need to decide how much maintenance you’re willing and able to perform.
Your system’s voltage requirements. Make sure your battery is compatible with the voltage requirements of your solar panels.
Frequently asked questions
Are there any tax incentives to offset the cost of a solar battery?
Yes. Depending on when you purchased and installed your solar battery, you may be eligible for a federal tax incentive of between 22% and 30% of the battery’s cost. To qualify, the battery must have a storage capacity of at least 3 kilowatt hours. New construction and existing homes both qualify, as do both primary and secondary residences. The home can be a house, co-op, condo, houseboat, mobile home or manufactured home. Rentals do not qualify for this tax incentive. State incentives may be available in your areas as well. Check this database to see if you qualify for one.
Can I have solar panels without buying a solar battery?
Yes. Without a battery, any excess energy you produce will just go back to the grid rather than be stored in a battery for your future use. This is called a grid-tie system.
What type of solar battery is the most popular for residential use?
Even though they’re pricey, lithium-ion batteries are the most popular type of solar battery for residential use because they’re long-lasting and often don’t need maintenance.
Families who manage to save up for a down payment and get approved for a mortgage often get an unwelcome surprise: closing costs that all too often are full of junk fees. Closing costs are the fees you pay on the day you finalize the purchase of your home, and they include things like title insurance, credit report and appraisal fees, origination fees, and more. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB) is working to ensure that consumers can navigate the closing process more easily, shop around, and save money.
Closing costs have risen, putting pressure on borrowers’ budgets
While home prices and interest rates often command our attention, closing costs also contribute to borrowers’ monthly burdens. One measure of closing costs is total loan costs. Total loan costs include origination fees, appraisal and credit report fees, title insurance, discount points, and other fees. From 2021 to 2022, median total loan costs rose sharply, increasing by 21.8 percent on home purchase loans.
In 2022, the median amount paid by borrowers was nearly $6,000 in these costs and fees. That’s a substantial upfront cost on what is already a major financial undertaking. Homeowners can choose to pay closing costs out of pocket, but that can reduce their down payment amount. Lenders sometimes give borrowers a “credit” to cover closing costs, but then charge the borrower a higher interest rate on the mortgage. Sometimes sellers pay closing costs but increase the sale price on the home. Often, closing costs are simply rolled into the total loan amount, racking up interest for the life of the loan. Borrowers who can’t bring cash to the table often have to pay more, through higher interest rates or mortgage insurance payments.
Many of these costs are fixed and do not fluctuate with interest rates or change based on the size of the loan. As a result, they have an outsized impact on borrowers with smaller mortgages, such as lower income borrowers, first-time homebuyers, and borrowers living in Black and Hispanic communities. A 2021 study found that nearly 15 percent of lower income homebuyers had closing costs that exceeded the amount of their down payment.
We are paying particular attention to the recent rise in discount points. A higher percentage of borrowers reported paying discount points in 2022 than any other years since this data point was first reported in 2018. In 2022 about 50.2 percent of home purchase borrowers paid some discount points, up from 32.1 in 2021. Borrowers are also paying more in discount points. The median discount points paid for home purchase loans in 2022 was $2,370 in 2022, up from $1,225 in 2021. Lenders sell discount points to borrowers to reduce interest rates. These points may not always save borrowers money, however, and may indeed add to borrowers’ costs. The CFPB is continuing to monitor market trends in this area.
Lack of competition and choice may add to already rising housing costs
It appears that some closing costs are high and increasing because there is little competition. Borrowers are required to pay for many of the costs associated with closing a home loan but cannot pick the provider and do not benefit from the service. In many cases, the lender simply picks from a very small universe of providers, and the costs are then passed on to the borrower.
Lender’s title insurance is one example of a fee borrowers face at closing where the borrower has no control over cost. Title insurance is meant to protect against someone else laying claim to a borrower’s property. A lender’s title insurance policy protects only the lender against these possible claims, not the borrower. Instead of paying this fee themselves, lenders make borrowers pay the cost. The amount that borrowers pay for lender’s title insurance is often much greater than the risk.
Fees for credit reports are another example. The credit reporting industry is highly concentrated, with just a handful of dominant players dictating the price of credit reports and scores. Borrowers pay the fee for lenders to pull credit reports for each loan applicant from three nationwide credit reporting companies. Mortgage lenders have recently reported steep increases in the price of the scores and reports used for mortgage underwriting. The CFPB has heard reports of recent costs spiking 25 percent to as much as 400 percent. At the same time, we estimate that nationwide credit reporting companies made over $1.3 billion annually. These steep increases in a market that lacks competition and choice warrant further scrutiny.
Tell the CFPB how mortgage closing costs affect you
The CFPB is tackling housing affordability using all our tools. We are working on:
Improving the ability of homeowners to refinance their mortgage when interest rates are favorable.
Reducing risks for borrowers who fall behind in their mortgage payments.
Making it easier for consumers to submit debt collection complaints to us about rental housing so that we can address illegal fees and better identify emerging issues like rental payment platforms that target families with junk fees or the use of high-cost loans to pay rent.
In the coming months, the CFPB will continue working to analyze mortgage closing costs, seek public input and, as necessary, issue rules and guidance to improve competition, choice, and affordability. We will also continue using our supervision and enforcement tools to make it safer for people to purchase homes and to hold companies accountable when they violate the law. Our research findings and market insights guide our work, as well as information from consumers that helps us better understand how issues like mortgage closing costs affect households and families.
If you have problem with your mortgage or closing costs and need a response from a company, you can submit a complaint with the CFPB. If you don’t need a response from the company and want to share your experience with us, you can tell your story.
Feelings of Financial Insecurity in America Soar to Record High, Even as Consumer Anxiety About the Economy and Recession Recede Northwestern Mutual’s 2024 Planning & Progress Study finds just over half of U.S. adults expect recession this year, a significant drop from two-thirds who said the same in 2023 One-third (33%) of Americans say they … [Read more…]
While the proposed tax credit appears unlikely to get through a Republican-controlled Congress, Biden has the ability to use the CFPB to push his housing policy agenda.
An ‘unwelcome surprise’
A CFPB blog post on Friday states that families closing a mortgage “often get an unwelcome surprise: closing costs that all too often are full of junk fees.”
According to the CFPB, one measure of closing costs is total loan costs, which includes title insurance, credit report, appraisal, and origination. These costs increased by 21.8% from 2021 to 2022, reaching nearly $6,000, per the CFPB post. And, as they are fixed, they have an “outsized impact on borrowers with smaller mortgages,” it added.
The post provoked a strong reaction from the Mortgage Bankers Association (MBA). Its president and CEO, Bob Broeksmit, stated that the use of the term junk fees is “illogical” and contradicts the White House’s definition, which is “lack of disclosure of the fee being charged.”
“The fees mentioned are clearly disclosed to borrowers well before a home purchase on forms developed and prescribed by the Dodd-Frank Act and the CFPB itself,” Broeksmit said in a prepared statement.
Broeksmit added that the Bureau’s “TRID” rule in 2015 and other rules imposed in 2020 reformed mortgage disclosures and customers’ ability to read these documents.
What’s the CFPB monitoring?
The CFPB said it will closely examine three topics: discount points, lenders’ title insurance, and credit reports.
Discount points have surged in recent years as mortgage rates have risen and competition has gotten more fierce. They were used by 50.2% of home purchase borrowers in 2022, compared to 32.1% in 2021. And, despite lenders selling points to reduce rates, it “may not always save borrowers money, however, and may indeed add to borrowers’ costs,” the CFPB said.
In another criticism of housing finance practices, the CFPB said lenders force borrowers pay for their title insurance, and the amount “is often much greater than the risk.”
Regarding credit reports, HousingWire reported in December that lenders’ prices would jump in 2024. The CFPB said that the “credit reporting industry is highly concentrated” and that “these steep increases in a market that lacks competition and choice warrant further scrutiny.”
“In the coming months, the CFPB will continue working to analyze mortgage closing costs, seek public input, and, as necessary, issue rules and guidance to improve competition, choice, and affordability,” the blog post reads. “We will also continue using our supervision and enforcement tools to make it safer for people to purchase homes and to hold companies accountable.”
Broeksmit has argued for years that it’s the CFPB that has made mortgage lending more expensive for consumers. The agency announces “new legal obligations without formal process or deliberation, enforcing novel and untested legal theories, and making it very difficult for firms to understand their legal obligations,” he said in 2022. A year later he described housing policy coming from Washington, D.C. as “extreme overregulation.”
In response to the CFPB’s latest “baffling” blog post, he noted that the agency has already imposed limits on lenders’ fees. The services covered, such as appraisals and flood hazard certifications, bring efficiency to the mortgage market and benefit consumers. The Federal Housing Administration (FHA), Department of Veterans Affairs (VA), Fannie Mae, and Freddie Mac also require these services.
The MBA, according to him, is also concerned “regarding rising costs of the tri-merge credit reports” and shares the “desire to help more Americans become homeowners.”
“MBA is eager to continue working with the Biden administration in these efforts but will vigorously oppose politically motivated proposals that only increase regulatory costs, reduce competition, or otherwise make it more difficult for Americans to get the credit necessary to achieve homeownership,” Broeksmit said.
I didn’t know how to pronounce Les Miserables until 2017. Now I know all the songs. My wife bought us tickets to the show for my birthday this year. What a triumphant masterpiece! 99% of children dislike art museums, musicals, and reading the news. But many adults find beauty or intrigue in those same ideas.
A similar “boring-to-not-boring” transition happens in personal finance. The problem is that the fun doesn’t last. We had fun getting our personal finances under control. We got hooked on that fun. It lasted for months or even a few years. Money went from a scary unknown to an exciting area of optimization.
But then we got it all figured out and…well, the thrill is gone as B.B. King sang. And thus you find yourself here, on a .blog domain. Who uses .blog?!
Don’t despair. The lack of financial fun is a good thing. It’s a sign that your finances are in a great place.
But I still find fun financial things to think about and learn. There are a few traditionally “boring” topics that I find exciting. I’ll share them below, and maybe you’ll be intrigued too.
Get to Know Your Taxes
Can it get more boring than taxes?!
Actually, I like taxes. Over the past two years, I’ve realized that the tax code is half puzzle and half game, and I love puzzles and games.
The rules are well-defined (but there are a lot of them). I certainly do not know all the rules, but the more rules I learn, the better my “strategies” become.
The “pieces” interact in different (and sometimes surprising) ways. There are always multiple ways to “solve” a tax problem. Some solutions decrease this year’s taxes, and others decrease future taxes. Sometimes, we trade off lots of effort and paperwork to save a few bucks; is that a worthwhile trade?
If you’re a young W2 worker (like me), there’s not too much to know. Our tax scenario is fairly simple.
But if you’re a retiree earning Social Security income, making IRA withdrawals, realizing short and long-term capital gains, earning interest, dividends, and more, you’ve got an interesting puzzle before you! The interactions on a simple 1040 Federal Tax return can be quite complex and involve thousands of tax dollars per year.
If you’re a business owner or a real estate investor, the “puzzle” intensifies! This is why a good CPA accountant is worth their weight in gold.
To be clear, tax planning is not about cheating the tax system. When accountants tell me they’re “aggressive,” I take it as a euphemism for “I bend the tax code until it breaks.” That’s bad—and usually illegal. Avoid that. If you’re an honest accountant, please find a different word than “aggressive.”
But working with a tax professional who 1) knows the “rules” of the tax code and 2) enjoys optimally “solving the puzzle” you bring to them…well, odds are they can solve your puzzle much better than you can alone.
Pro tip: starting this year, review your 1040 Federal Tax Return (or your country’s equivalent)…try to go line-by-line, and if you don’t understand what a particular line item means, look it up.
Wait. For A Decade or Two.
The Best Interest is a big proponent of long-term investing, which, as you might have noticed, includes the verbiage “long-term.”
We’re not talking weeks or months. We measure in decades. We beat a slow-tempo’d drum of basic tenets, like “buy and hold” and “diversify” and “don’t look for needles, buy the whole haystack.“
BORING!
To spice things up, I like to remind myself (and you) of market history. One of my favorite cautionary tales is that returns are never promised, and we’ve suffered decades of zero returns.
In that article linked directly above, I put together this chart:
WOW! Multiple ~20 year periods of zero return?!
As I’ve realized in hindsight, there’s a problem with that chart. Everything is factually correct, but the chart presents data differently than most people think. I inflation-adjusted the data. In other words, the chart does not measure dollars and cents. It measures purchasing power.
There have been multi-decade periods when investors’ purchasing power was stagnant. Their accounts increased in value, but inflation ate the entirety of those gains.
Most of us, though, measure our accounts in dollars and cents. We understand the reality of inflation, constantly knawing at our purchasing power. But we don’t inflation-adjust our conception of the world. If $1.00 grows to $2.00, we see exactly that. We don’t say, “…but inflation was 14%, so really it’s like I only have $1.86.”
To fix this problem, I reconstructed the plot to show nominal dollars.
If you read my primer on accounting for inflation in retirement, the chart above lives in “the convenient world” while the chart below lives in “the true world.”
The lesson: it’s realistic for your diversified stock portfolio to go through a ~5+ year period of negative nominal returns. If you’re unlucky, it might stretch out to 10+ years!
Now that’s exciting (in the same way BASE jumping is exciting).
It’s a far stretch from the lazy shorthand of “the S&P returns 10% year!” that too many FinFluencers use. I’ve been guilty of that shorthand, and I understand its usage when calculating 30-year compound math.
I despise that shorthand, though, when I hear it used to explain expected stock market returns to a new investor. New investors need to know that stock investing is not a smooth ride. It’s not always up and to the right. It involves years – if not decades – of what feelslike wasted time.
5 years is a long time. 10 years, per math, is longer. Are you excited to stay the course that long through thick and thin?
Important note: this analysis looked at a lump sum investment. Dollar-cost averaging, though, smooths this ride out immensely!In fact, DCA actually takes advantage of bad times and volatility. I’m a huge fan of DCA’d monthly contributions through thick and thin.
Know Your Flow
Cashflow is the cinder block of personal finance.
It’s boring and basic and plain and every other synonym thereof.
But it’s also foundational.
You cannot build strong personal finances without healthy cash flow, and you won’t know if you have healthy cash flow unless you measure it.
Buy Protection
Speaking of BASE jumping…
The exciting part of extreme sports is “the jump” itself. But it’s someone’s job to consider the “boring” questions like,
“Is that parachute packed correctly?”
“Can that bungee cable support a 300-pound man?”
“If he doesn’t make it and lands in the pit of burning tires, what’s the rescue plan?”
Ok. That’s kind of funny. But on a more serious note, about the modern miracles of CPR and AED?
Christian Eriksen is a Danish soccer player, currently on the roster for Manchester United. On June 12, 2021, Eriksen had a cardiac arrest during a national team game against Finland. 50 years ago, he would be dead. But because the training staff is both CPR-trained and well-equipped with a automated external defibrillator (AED), Eriksen’s heart was shocked (one shock!) back to life. He’s still plays today.
A similar cardiac arrest happened to Damar Hamlin in a Buffalo Bills football game in January 2023. Again, an AED shocked his heart back to life. He’s alive and well and still playing football.
These might be 1-in-10000 events. Easy odds to ignore, right? But asking, “What happens if…” can lead you to some life-saving answers. A little preparation goes a long way.
The personal finance world skews less life-and-death than cardiac arrest, but some of the financial “Q&A” will point you toward:
A well-funded emergency fund.
Life insurance (term only!)
Home and auto insurance
Disability insurance
An umbrella insurance policy
If you’re unsure what kind of insurance you do (or don’t) need, ask yourself:
If something bad happened on [this axis], do I have the assets needed to pay for it?
If I died, would my family have the assets and cash flow to continue our desired lifestyle? If not, you need life insurance.
If I got disabled and couldn’t work…
If my house burned to the ground or got swept away in a hurricane…
If I got sued when the mailman trips on my sidewalk…
Etc. etc.
If you don’t have the assets to cover your liability, you need insurance.
You Made It. Go Live Life!
If everything in your finances feels boring, that’s a good thing. You’ve reached the top.
There are plenty of nuanced topics to nosedive into.
Or, you can just go live your life. Go check out a musical or a museum. Another story must begin!
Thank you for reading! If you enjoyed this article, join 8000+ subscribers who read my 2-minute weekly email, where I send you links to the smartest financial content I find online every week.
-Jesse
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