If you’re saving for retirement, a broad market index portfolio is typically a good option. Investing in a target date fund or S&P 500 index fund, for instance, are low-cost ways to gain broad market exposure. However, newly published research indicates there may be a significantly more lucrative way to handle your nest egg.
A financial advisor can help find the right mix of investments for your retirement portfolio. Find a fiduciary advisor today.
An analysis from Dimensional Fund Advisors suggests retirement savers can do better than following the standard advice to use index funds, for instance, to get a balanced portfolio. Portfolios built with a focus on size, value and profitability premiums can generate more assets and better longevity than broad market portfolios, according to the DFA research. In fact, a DFA researcher calculated that a portfolio that emphasizes these premiums would leave a hypothetical investor with at least 20% more money by age 65, even if market returns were less than the historical average.
“These results are encouraging. A portfolio that incorporates controlled, moderate premium exposure can strike a balance between higher expected returns than the market and the cost of slightly higher volatility and moderate tracking error,” DFA’s Mathieu Pellerin wrote in his paper “How Targeting the Size, Value, and Profitability Premiums Can Improve Retirement Outcomes.”
“As a result, targeting these long-term drivers of stock returns is likely to increase assets at the beginning of retirement.”
What Are Size, Value and Profitability Premiums?
As part of its research, DFA compared the simulated performance of a broad market index portfolio – represented by the Center for Research in Security Prices (CRSP) 1-10 index – against that of the Dimensional US Adjusted Market 1 Index.
The DFA index comprises 14% fewer stocks than the CRSP index and places a greater emphasis on size, value and profitability premiums. Here’s how the firm defines each:
Size premium: The tendency of small-cap stocks to outperform large-cap stocks
Value premium: The tendency of undervalued stocks – those with low price-to-book-value ratios – to outperform
Profitability premium: The tendency of companies with relatively high operating profits to outperform those with lower profitability
As a result, the DFA index is more heavily weighted in small-cap and value stocks, as well as companies with higher profits.
Premiums Produce Better Retirement Outcomes
To test the long-term viability of its premium-based portfolio, DFA ran an extensive set of simulations and compared the results against the CRSP market index.
First, Pellerin calculated 40 years’ worth of hypothetical returns for each portfolio, assuming an investor starts saving at age 25 and retires at age 65. Both portfolios are part of a glide path that starts with a 100% equity allocation and beings to transition toward bonds at age 45. By age 65, the investor’s asset allocation eventually reaches a 50/50 split between stocks and bonds.
Then, he calculated how both portfolios would fare during the investor’s decumulation phase. To do this, DFA applied the 4% rule. This rule of thumb stipulates that a retiree with a balanced portfolio can withdraw 4% of their assets in their first year of retirement and adjust withdrawals in subsequent years for inflation, and have enough money for 30 years.
DFA tested the portfolios using both historical returns (8.1% per year) and more conservative returns (5% per year).
When applying the historical rate of return, the portfolio that targets premiums would be worth 22% more than the broad market portfolio by the time the hypothetical investor reaches age 65. In the lower growth environment, the DFA portfolios would still deliver 20% more median assets than its counterpart, according to the research.
The hypothetical investor would also have a lesser chance of running out of money with the DFA portfolio. Using historical returns, the premium-focused portfolio failed just 2.5% of the time over a 30-year retirement. That’s nearly half as many times as the market portfolio, which posted a 4.7% failure rate.
That spread grew even larger when Pellerin ran the simulations with more conservative return expectations. Over the course of a 30-year retirement, the DFA portfolio ran out of money in just 12.9% of simulations when annual returns averaged just 5%, while the market portfolio failed 19.9% of the time.
Bottom Line
Investing in index funds or target date funds that track the broad market can be an effective way to save for retirement, but Dimensional Fund Advisors found that targeting stocks with size, value and profitability premiums can produce better retirement outcomes. When comparing a broad market index to one that focuses on these factors, the latter produced at least 20% more median assets and had lower failure rates.
Retirement Planning Tips
How much will you have in savings by the time you retire? SmartAsset’s retirement calculator can help you estimate how much money you could expect to have by retirement age and how much you’ll potentially need to support your lifestyle.
Retirement planning can be complicated, but a financial advisor can help you through the process. Finding a financial advisor doesn’t have to be hard. SmartAsset’s free tool matches you with up to three vetted financial advisors who serve your area, and you can have a free introductory call with your advisor matches to decide which one you feel is right for you. If you’re ready to find an advisor who can help you achieve your financial goals, get started now.
Patrick Villanova, CEPF®
Patrick Villanova is a writer for SmartAsset, covering a variety of personal finance topics, including retirement and investing. Before joining SmartAsset, Patrick worked as an editor at The Jersey Journal. His work has also appeared on NJ.com and in The Star-Ledger. Patrick is a graduate of the University of New Hampshire, where he studied English and developed his love of writing. In his free time, he enjoys hiking, trying out new recipes in the kitchen and watching his beloved New York sports teams. A New Jersey native, he currently lives in Jersey City.
Hello, GRSers. Today, let’s revisit something I tacked on to the end of my nine lessons from The Millionaire Next Door:
[T]here are actually two benefits of learning to live on much less than your paycheck.
The first, of course, is that you can save more.
But secondly, it also means that you ultimately need to save less.
Permit me to demonstrate.
Someone who makes $50,000 but lives on just $40,000 can contribute $10,000 a year to her nest egg, and can retire when that nest egg is big enough to generate — along with Social Security and other benefits — $40,000 a year. However, someone who makes $50,000 but spends, say, $48,000 is contributing just $2,000 to a portfolio that must eventually help provide $48,000 a year in retirement. In other words, she’s saving less yet needs to accumulate more.
I thought I’d add some heft to this argument by drawing out the illustrations with some calculations (yay, math!), as well as add a third hypothetical person with a savings rate in between the aforementioned folks.
Save Now, Profit Later
Let’s assume we have three 40-year-olds who each earn $50,000. Here’s how they look in 2011:
Investor A
Investor B
Investor C
Annual living expenses
$40,000
$45,000
$48,000
Annual savings
$10,000
$5,000
$2,000
Savings rate
20%
10%
4%
Savings rate is the percentage of income contributed toward retirement accounts.
Besides their ages and salaries, let’s assume they’ll also experience the same rate of inflation and wage growth (both 3% annually) and investment returns (8% annually). Finally, they each would like to retire at age 67, when they will be able to claim full Social Security benefits.
Note: Yes, I know we can argue about the assumed inflation rate and investment returns. Let’s not, though. They’re incidental to my main point here, which is comparing investors with different savings rates. Whatever inflation and investment returns the future holds, they will affect these investors identically.
Now, let’s fast-forward 27 years. Thanks to raises, each of our three guinea pigs earns an annual salary of $111,064. But they’ve maintained their savings rates, and thus their annual expenses (since they’re just different sides of the same 11,106,400 coins, assuming those coins are pennies). Here’s how things will look at the end of 2037.
Investor A
Investor B
Investor C
Annual expenses
$88,852
$99,958
$106,622
Portfolio value
$1,245,623
$622,811
$249,125
Income coverage ratio
14.0
6.2
2.3
Income-coverage ratio is the portfolio value divided by annual expenses.
As you can see, the super-saver has more than a million dollars, quite a bit more than the other two investors. Furthermore, that portfolio is 14.0 times Investor A’s annual expenses; in other words, not factoring in investment growth, inflation, or any other retirement income (such as Social Security), Investor A’s portfolio could cover living expenses for fourteen years.
The other two portfolios would only last 6.2 and 2.3 years. This is mostly due to Investor A having a bigger portfolio, but it’s also due to Investor A needing less each year because she’s learned to live on a lower level of annual expenses. This is why living below your means is like saving for retirement twice: It allows you to contribute more to retirement accounts, and you can retire sooner because you need to accumulate less to cover your expenses in retirement.
Still Not Enough?
Thus ends the lesson about the whole “saving for retirement twice” concept. I hope you enjoyed the show.
For those who wish to continue, we’ll address another question: Does Investor A have enough to retire, even after saving 20% of income for 27 years? The answer: It depends. If Investor A were a real-life person on the verge of retirement, I’d recommend 1) a thorough retirement-plan analysis, and 2) a psychoanalysis of her parents for naming her Investor A. But since this is a blog post and there are plenty of funny YouTube videos to vye for your viewing (such as this one), we’ll do some simple calculations (yay, more math!). It involves two numbers:
Four percent of $1,245,623 or $49,825: Financial-planning geeks (and the people who love them) know the “4% rule,” which is a guideline for how much of a portfolio a retiree can spend in the first year of retirement. It’s just a rule of thumb, with plenty of quibbles. (For an explanation and some of the criticisms, read this from Vanguard’s John Ameriks.) But it serves as a good baseline for our purposes.
The future, inflated, annualized value of Social Security benefits, or $55,668: That’s the number I got from using the Quick Calculator from Social Security Online.
Add them together, and you get $105,493 — a good bit more than the $88,852 Investor A needs to cover living expenses. Perhaps she, being the great saver that she is, could retire before age 67.
But wait! That assumes she’ll receive her full Social Security benefit as currently estimated, and everyone knows that the program is bankrupt and all she’ll receive is “10% off” coupons from Denny’s. That leaves her with just that $49,825 — only half of what she needs.
Well, not quite. As I’ve written before in these cyber-pages, you will receive something from Social Security — but it’s prudent to assume it’ll be less than currently projected. The Social Security Administration estimates that future payroll taxes will cover approximately 75% of scheduled benefits in 2037. Let’s play it safer and assume Investor A will get just half of her benefit, or $27,834, for a total retirement income of $77,659. That’s still less than $88,852.
This is where that “thorough retirement-plan analysis” would come in. Could Investor A get by on less than $88,852? Can she downsize to a smaller home? Could she work just a few years more (by delaying Social Security to age 70, her benefit will be more than a third higher than if she takes it at age 67) or work part-time (and thus retire part-time)? She likely has a few options, which are more numerous and will entail less sacrifice than those available to Investor B and Investor C.
But even they have more options than Investor D, whose situation looks like this:
Investor D
Savings Rate
0%
Portfolio value
$0
Chance of retiring
0%
If you can’t save 20% or even 10% of your income, save what you can, as soon as you can. You’ll always be better off than someone who doesn’t save anything.
My monthly Extraordinary Lives series is something that I really enjoying doing. First up was JP Livingston, who retired with a net worth over $2,000,000 at the age of 28. Today’s interview is with Jeremy, Winnie, and Julian, also known as the family behind Go Curry Cracker.
With the goal of traveling around the world, Jeremy and Winnie were in their 30s when they retired around six years ago. Their 3-year-old son travels with them and has already been to 29 countries as well!
They were able to do this by saving intensively – over 70% of their after-tax income.
In this interview, you’ll learn:
How they retired in their 30s.
What made them want to retire early.
How they live comfortably, rent houses with private pools, fly business class, and travel a ton – as opposed to the myth that early retirees are boring and just eat beans and rice to survive.
How they decided on the amount they needed to retire.
What they do about health insurance in early retirement.
And more! This interview is jam packed full of great information!
I asked you, my readers, what questions I should ask them, so below are your questions (and some of mine) about their story and how they accomplished so much. Make sure you’re following me on Facebook so you have the opportunity to submit your own questions for the next interview.
Related content:
1. Tell me your story. When did you retire and HOW?!
We are Jeremy, Winnie, and Julian, also known as the family behind Go Curry Cracker!
Winnie and I retired about six years ago with the goal of traveling the world. Traveling more in retirement is a pretty common goal, so I suppose the interesting bits are that we were still in our 30s and our 3-year-old son has now been to 29 countries.
What made our location and financially independent lifestyle possible was a decade of intensive saving – we were literally saving 70%+ of our after-tax income. Instead of buying stuff or experiences, we were investing in our future freedom.
Alas, we had already succumbed to some lifestyle inflation so we sold the house and moved into a small apartment, sold the car and started walking and riding bicycles, and turned our home kitchen into the best restaurant in town.
Unwinding lifestyle inflation is a huge mental challenge, but we both grew up on the edge of poverty so we had some experience with prioritizing purchases and finding solutions that didn’t require money. Nowadays, our investments pay all of our bills, and we could buy a house, buy a car, live a typical life… we just happen to not want those things.
Instead, for the past many years, we’ve basically spent the summer in Europe, autumn in the US, and winter in Asia. It’s not quite a perpetual summer vacation, but close.
2. Was early retirement always something you were striving for? What made you want to retire early?
Prior to 2002, we were both essentially following the normal life script – go to school, get good grades, get a job, etc… Maybe the only unconventional thing is I had student loan payoff as the #1 priority. Every story I heard about debt while growing up had a tragic ending, so I wanted to be debt free ASAP. I even cashed out all of my vacation time for five years or so to get extra pay. We also did crazy things like using 0% interest credit card offers to accelerate student loan payoff. Literally every extra penny went to the student loans.
When I finally got my head above water, I took a vacation, my first as an adult. After three weeks of scuba diving, fresh seafood, and tropical drinks, I looked back at where life in the real world was headed and thought, “This is it? This is the American Dream?”
Within six months the house and car were gone and the early retirement plan was underway.
3. Would you say that you live comfortably?
If by comfortably you mean do we rent houses with private pools, fly business class, and enjoy an occasional Michelin Star restaurant, then yeah, that sounds about right. Combined with 52 weeks of vacation per year and full autonomy, we are probably at an above average comfort level.
That may sound a little smug, for which I apologize, but I think it is important to truly understand the power of deferred consumption. We can only live as we do today because we didn’t live like this yesterday.
By living well beneath our means for just a small part of our total lifetimes (10 years +/-), something many would consider “uncomfortable”, we are now able to live well above the standards of even high-income households – just without the need to consume all of our waking hours with a high-income job.
In summary – yeah, life is good.
4. What career did you have before you retired? Did that career help you to retire earlier?
Winnie was a Program Manager for a large PC company, and I was an Engineer at a large software company.
I do wish we had those insane technology salaries that I sometimes hear about in the news, but our average combined income over our hardcore saving years was only about $135k. I guess I should have studied harder.
I think more than the job, my degree helped us retire early. I basically applied engineering principles to our finances and our lifestyle, trying to optimize for quality of life and low expenses. I then used that same mentality in designing our investment portfolio (100% index funds) and minimizing our taxes ($100k income with $0 income tax.) If I had studied art history or interior design, I probably would have thought about these things from an entirely different perspective, perhaps one that required more expensive furnishings.
5. What advice do you have for the average person that doesn’t make six figures a year who wants to retire early?
The core principle to follow is living well beneath your means, aiming for at least 50% savings rates. Or in 1950s parlance, live off one income and save the other. This recipe for financial success has worked for much of recorded history.
Of course, this is easier when making $100k than it is when making $10k, all else being equal.
For many average income households, it helps to change perspective: It isn’t that we can’t afford to save 50%, it is that we can’t afford our current lifestyle.
This is where we were when we got started, and some tough choices are ahead… it is necessary to either earn more, spend less, or wait (much) longer. Or all 3.
For households with incomes well below average, such as our families when we were growing up, it is absolutely necessary to grow income. Public assistance can help for a while (I’ve eaten a fair amount of government cheese), but ultimately skill development and probably even relocation to a job center are necessary.
6. Do you still earn an income in retirement?
We do. With all of this free time, it is fairly difficult to NOT do something that brings in some extra cash.
Last year Winnie published her first book (in Mandarin / Chinese) which was on the bestseller list in Taiwan for a while. About three years ago, Go Curry Cracker accidentally started to earn some affiliate income. I now actually try to run the site as a business, but limit myself to just a few hours per week.
I also employ a pretty aggressive long-term tax minimization strategy, which saves us thousands of dollars every year in taxes. I suppose that can also be thought of as extra income. We’ve actually reported about $100k annual income each of the last five years with income tax bills of $0.
For anybody who is interested, I do publish our full income statements and tax returns (business and personal) every year (linked to above). A lot of people have found those helpful to optimize their own finances.
7. How did you decide how much you needed to retire?
We set a target to have an investment portfolio worth 25x our desired cost of living in Seattle, where we were living at the time, although we were spending much less to turbocharge our savings.
25x is just the standard 4% Rule, which (in oversimplified terms) says you can annually spend an inflation adjusted 4% of your portfolio, probably forever. So, say if you wanted to spend $40k/year, you would need $1 million. That was our minimum.
When we hit that target, Winnie stopped working, and I continued on for about three more years, during which we were just living off dividends, so we were essentially investing 100% of my paycheck.
We also wanted the portfolio to continue to grow so we could leave a bit of a legacy, so even after we stopped working, we wanted to continue living beneath our means. We did this by living large in Mexico and Guatemala rather than Paris or Tokyo. And as luck would have it, the stock market performance over the past five years has been pretty good, so our portfolio just continues to grow, and we can’t spend it fast enough.
8. What sacrifices or hard decisions did you have to make?
This may sound cliché, but I don’t think of anything we did as a sacrifice – we just employed a suggestion my grandmother used to make all the time, “Hey there, you hold onto your britches now young man!” Roughly translated from the original Minnesotan, I think that means “slow down.” In other words, hold off on the lifestyle inflation for a while.
When people rush out to buy their dream house (with rented money) or a new car or a big vacation, they are sacrificing their future for immediate consumption. We just waited a little longer, and along the way we discovered that none of those trappings of success have any real meaning to us.
But of course, when society and advertisers are screaming at you that you need to consume and upgrade, it can be difficult to pause and reconsider. We avoided a lot of that by not owning a television and using the great outdoors for entertainment.
9. What do you do about health insurance in early retirement?
For many years, we were self-insured and just paid cash for any medical needs. We paid $3 for a doctor visit in Mexico, $20 for some dental care in Thailand, $50 for a chest X-ray in Taiwan, and $90 for a visit to the emergency room in Portugal. Medical tourism is your friend. What we weren’t spending on health insurance, we invested in more index funds, building our own healthcare fund.
If we were in the US, we would buy health insurance on the State or Federal Health Exchanges. The US health system is all kinds of messed up, so without insurance you are only one minor incident from total financial devastation.
As of about six months ago, we are now all covered by the Taiwan national health system, which is a single payer universal healthcare provider. We pay about $25/person/month for great coverage, which includes dental. (Hot tip: marry somebody from a country with a good health system.)
10. Will you be planning a place for your child to make long term friendships and connections? Do you plan to continue travel when your child is school age?
We like the idea of homeschooling up to age 10 or 12 or so, but we are still figuring it out. Even so, it probably won’t be all or nothing (Julian is enrolled part time in a Montessori pre-school now.)
The pros/cons of life-in-place vs nomadic living is such an interesting discussion for us, because we are inherently a global family (our nuclear families are spread across 2 countries, 3 States, and 6 cities) and despite our very different backgrounds, we independently concluded that the idea of “home” for us isn’t really a place.
Our thinking comes from our existing communities – Winnie grew up in a big city (Taipei), and she has friends from back in the 3rd grade who all have kids around the same age as Julian. When we are in Taiwan, we all get together and it is like they never missed a beat. It’s a beautiful thing.
I grew up in a small town in Minnesota, and 99% of my childhood / high-school friends and family moved away for college and career. There is literally no one place I can go where all long-term friendships and connections exist, and yet I have them, just spread around the world. It’s also a beautiful thing.
We try to get quality time with all of our family every year, which is much easier now that we don’t have jobs. 2 years ago, we had 4 generations together for a week on a lake, with Grandma, my parents, my sister and 2 brothers and spouses, and their 9 kids. This year we took my Mom and Grandma on an Alaska Cruise, and also spent a couple weeks with all of Julian’s cousins. Next year will be something special again, and we all stay in touch via Skype. We also plan on having more kids, which means sibling connections.
What we do will change and evolve as we learn more and figure things out, but overall, we’ll listen to our kids, make sure we have regular quality time with family, and stay connected with friends and family via Skype. And everywhere we go, we build community with friends, family, and other adventurers. I think it will be the same for the next generation.
11. What hardships come up when traveling with a child and what do you do about it?
The hardships of traveling with a child are largely the same as the hardships of parenting. Kids have needs and wants, and if they aren’t addressed in a timely fashion then chaos ensues. As with most things, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure – and even then, things go awry.
Where most families have to balance child rearing with a career and fixed schedules, we have a great deal of flexibility. Seldom are we schedule driven, and when we are (e.g. a flight departure time) we avoid other commitments. We also aren’t doing the quick 1 week vacation thing, with a lot of time getting from A to B and a whirlwind of tours and activities; that’s much too intense and exhausting. We are more so living our normal lives, just in different locations. We play at the park daily, take naps, explore by foot, and enjoy the local delicacies. If we are having too much fun at the park, we can always see the museum tomorrow. Somehow, we usually manage to see the highlights.
Since we aren’t always in one location with a regular schedule, we focus on having routine in the absence of routine. We have regular toys, regular nap time, and a bedtime ritual which involves a bath, songs, and books. Plus we all co-sleep, so we are together 24/7. It’s hard to provide a stronger sense of security than parental presence.
It all seems to be going well; Julian is a happy, healthy, normal kid. He loves being outside exploring, enjoys meeting new people, and is always ready for the next plane, train, or automobile.
12. If you were starting back in the beginning, what would you do differently from the beginning?
We made a lot of mistakes… buying a house, buying a car, spending money without a long-term plan, but I don’t know if I would change any of them. Those mistakes helped us grow and appreciate where we are today. For example, we are Renters for Life, but we probably wouldn’t really appreciate the total joy and financial advantages that come with not owning a deteriorating wooden box.
If I could go back in time and tell my younger self, “Hey, read this Go Curry Cracker blog, you’ll learn a lot!” we could probably have become Financially Independent 3 to 5 years earlier. That’s a lot, considering my entire career was only 16 years, but it’s not that that much in an 80 – 100 year life span.
But, what I would do differently:
invest only in index funds from the beginning
not waste my time dabbling in rental properties
always live within biking distance of work and prioritize biking and walking
always rent
learn to cook well sooner
start travel hacking sooner instead of paying for vacations
13. Lastly, what is your very best tip (or two) that you have for someone who wants to reach the same success as you?
Design your life so that saving a high percentage of income is the natural and ordinary outcome.
Aim for saving 50%+ of after-tax income, and minimize taxes
This post may contain affiliate links, which helps us to continue providing relevant content and we receive a small commission at no cost to you. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Please read the full disclosure here.
How many times have you thought about how much FI would it take to retire?
It’s a question that can be frustrating, especially since the answer is different for everyone.
What if there was an easy way to calculate your personal FI number and find out what kind of portfolio you need based on your spending habits? That’s where this handy calculator comes in!
Calculating your FI number is not as difficult as it sounds.
This is an important personal finance number to know.
If you desire to do something else or are just looking forward to retirement, you need to know how much money you need!
What is FI number?
FI number is the amount of money needed to retire.
It can be calculated using your salary, interest rate, and the time period in which you need to save for retirement.
The 4% figure is a reasonable place to start. The 4% rule is a conservative estimate, with the expectation that Social Security will play a larger role in retirement income.
Why Choose Financial independence?
Financial Independence, or “FI”, is a term used to describe the state of not needing to work for a living because your passive income from investments or savings can cover your living expenses.
It doesn’t mean you have to stop working altogether, it just means you’re no longer tied down by the need to earn a certain amount of money each month.
FI is an attractive proposition for many people because it allows them the freedom and flexibility to pursue their passions or hobbies without having to worry about financial constraints. And if you have money saved up, you can live comfortably off your savings or investments!
How to calculate your FI number?
There are a few different ways to calculate your FI number. The easiest way is to use an online calculator. This will give you a ballpark estimate of what you need to save in order to achieve financial independence.
Option #1 – Using Yearly Spending
One way to calculate your FI number is by multiplying your annual spending by 25. This will give you the amount you need in savings to have 25 times your annual spending available each year without having to touch the principal.
FI Number = yearly spending * 25
For example, if you spend $50000 a year, your FI number would be $1,250,000.
Option #2 – Using a Safe Withdrawal Rate of 4%
Another way to calculate your FI number is by using the safe withdrawal rate of 4%. In fact, many studies believe that 4% is the too old way of thinking and 3.3% is a better safe withdrawal rate (SWR).
You can calculate either way. If you prefer to pull more money out at retirement, then stick with 4%.
FI Number = yearly spending / Safe Withdrawal Rate
For example, if you spend $50000 a year and choose a 4% Safe withdrawal rate, your FI number would be $1,250,000.
Using a 3% safe withdrawal rate, your FI number would be $1,666,666.
The Financial Independence Formula
Do you know your FI number?
It’s a question people are often too embarrassed to ask, but if you don’t have an idea of what it is or where it comes from, you might be spending too much of your money.
Let’s start with the basics and work our way up to where we are today in terms of financial independence!
Calculate Your Spending
In order to calculate your spending, you need to know how much money you spend in a year. To do this, simply multiply your monthly spending by 12. This will give you an estimate of how much money you spend on an annual basis.
It’s important to have a detailed zero based budget before calculating your Financial Independence Formula. This way, you can be sure that you are including all of your regular expenses (and irregular expenses) in your calculations.
The FI Formula is based on conservative retirement calculations, so it’s important to include all of your regular expenses in the formula. The more accurate your figures are, the better idea you’ll have of how much money you’ll need for retirement.
Find Your FI Number
In order to achieve financial independence, you need to find your FI number.
This is determined by two factors: spending and withdrawal rate. The safe withdrawal rate (SWR) determines how much money you are able to withdraw each year without running out of savings in your lifetime. You divide your current spending by SWR to find out how much wealth you need in order to reach a certain financial target.
FI Number = yearly spending / Safe Withdrawal Rate
Everyone will have different FI numbs.
Determine Years to Financial Independence
The Financial Independence Formula may help estimate how much time it will take to reach financial independence. The formula is only a rough estimate, and you must adjust it as needed for more accurate calculations for your own savings plan.
The Financial Independence Formula factors in how much you need to save each year to become financially independent.
The goal of the Financial Independence Formula is to achieve financial independence before the typical retirement age of 45.
Years to FI = (FI Number – Amount Already Saved) / Yearly Saving
Using the example above, we calculated your FI number to be $1.25 million. You have already saved $450,000 and currently saving $25000 a year.
32 Years to FI = (1250000 – 450000) / 25000
However, if you increase your savings rate to $80000, then
10 Years to FI = (1250000 – 450000) / 80000
As you can tell, the more you are able to save and invest, the quicker you will reach FI.
For the amount already saved, you need to use the amount saved in retirement plans as well as any taxable accounts that will fund your lifestyle.
A commonly asked question is… should I include my house value? Honestly, the answer is no – unless part of your FI plan includes selling your house and moving to a lower cost of living area. Then, you would use the difference of your appreciated house value minus the cost of a cheaper home.
How to FI – Create a Plan
One of the most important aspects of actually achieving financial independence is to create an action plan.
Without action, you will be spinning on the same cycle over and over.
So, take an hour and start making your plan.
Step #1 – Figure out Numbers
The first step is figuring out your FI number and how many years away you can be.
There are many ways to make variations on finding your FI number. So, make sure you take into account how many years it will take for you to reach financial independence at your current savings rate.
This is the most important step!
Step #2 – Pick a Realistic Date
This is when most people get motivated when they pick a realistic date to retire early.
Every single decision you make will take you one step closer to your goal.
You are working backward from your “selected” date.
Step #3 – Take Action to Enjoy Life
The hardest step for actually making the decision to FI is to take action.
There are so many factors going into what you need to do once your know your FI number.
You can’t just sit back and do nothing once you know your FI number. You have to follow the steps below on saving and investing to reach financial independence.
For many people, this is choosing to live a frugal green lifestyle while saving money.
How to FI – Saving to Achieve Financial Independence
The FI Number Calculator is a simple tool that helps you calculate how much it will take to reach financial independence when investing in the stock market and using your savings rate as well.
But there are certain steps you must take to be able to save more money to jumpstart your path to financial independence. While many of our money saving challenges will help you, you need to find ways to save more money.
Step #1: Pay Off Debt
When you’re working to achieve Financial Independence, it’s important to address your debt. Paying off debt will help you achieve financial independence faster.
There are two types of debt that are especially important to pay off:
Credit card debt
Student loan debt
Credit card companies have high interest rates, so it’s important to consolidate your credit card debt by using Tally or an equivalent service. This can help you find a lower monthly payment and reduce the amount of time it takes to pay off your debt.
Before seeking to consolidate your credit card debt, make a plan for how you’ll avoid future use of this type of loan!
Debt is a cash flow drain while pursuing Financial Independence.
Step #2: Reduce Expenses
There are many ways to reduce expenses and achieve financial independence faster.
One potential area for savings is housing, which can be achieved through refinancing, house hacking, or downsizing.
Other options include trading in your new car for a beater car, scaling back on eating out or cutting back on your streaming services.
Typically those who budget consistently have an easier time reducing their expenses. Using a budget binder will help you find ways to reduce your expenses.
Step #3: Boost your income
This is probably the most important step to be able to increase your saving percentage significantly!
There are many ways to boost your income and save more money.
For example:
Find ways to increase your income from your 9-5 job.
Develop skills or get promoted to earn a better job with higher pay.
Side hustling can help you earn a decent income every month.
Find passive income streams as ways to start earning more money without any effort on your part.
Sell your old stuff on websites like eBay or Amazon for some quick cash infusion into your savings account.
Finding ways to make money fast is important during your FI journey.
You must search for additional sources of income, as they can help you save more and invest more in the future.
Step #4: Invest Money
It’s important to invest money in order to grow your wealth. You can do this automatically by investing through most online brokers.
This way, you’ll avoid making any rash decisions based on fear or greed. Investing consistently is a great way to get an average of 8-12% returns on your investments.
The idea is to save as much as possible and invest in assets that provide a high return on investment. This could include buying stocks, real estate, or other investments that offer long-term stability and growth potential.
Learn how to invest $100 to make $1000 a day.
How to FI – Investing to Reach Financial Independence
Now is a good time to start investing for financial independence.
When you’re ready to invest, it’s important to make sure the investment risk matches what you can handle. A portfolio must match your risk tolerance and long-term goals if you want to achieve financial independence.
We will cover various options on how to use investing to help you reach FI sooner.
Step#1: Make Investments Automatic
When you invest your money automatically, you don’t have to think about it and you can take advantage of dollar-cost averaging.
This means that over time, you’ll get a better price for your investments since you’re buying them in small batches instead of all at once.
In layman’s terms, that means investing a certain amount of money each month.
Step #2: Choose an Index Portfolio
Creating a lazy index portfolio is one of the best ways to invest your money.
This type of portfolio is made up of low-cost index funds or ETFs, which means that you don’t have to worry about timing the market or trying to pick stocks that will outperform the rest.
All you need to do is hold on for the long term and let the market do its thing – in good times and bad.
Step #3: Track Your Progress
As you save and invest your money, it’s important to track your progress so that you can see how well you’re doing and whether or not you’re on track to reach Financial Independence.
This can be done easily by creating a budget and tracking your net worth, both of which will give you great insight into where you are with your finances.
Also, track your liquid net worth separately.
Seeing this progress in black and white is often motivating enough to encourage people to keep saving and investing!
Empower is a comprehensive suite of financial tools that offers a FREE way to track your investment and cash accounts. You can connect all of your accounts so you can see an overview of all of your finances in one place, and the best part is that it’s free! Check out my Empower Review.
Empower Personal Wealth, LLC (“EPW”) compensates Money Bliss for new leads. Money Bliss is not an investment client of Personal Capital Advisors Corporation or Empower Advisory Group, LLC.
FI Number Calculator
The Financial Independence Number Calculator uses a range of variables to calculate the length of time it would take to save for FI. This information can be helpful in developing a savings plan that is tailored specifically to your individual needs.
Here is a simple FI number calculator.
As you can imagine, there are many different scenarios for finding your FI number.
For starters, get a ballpark range and amount you need to save each year to reach your goal. As you get closer to actually, hitting that switch and becoming fully financially independent, then you can refine your FI number.
Remember, while this formula provides a ballpark estimate, more precise results are possible by using a financial independence calculator such as Networthify’s model.
Saving for Retirement or More Savings to Quit work?
If you have some money saved already, the time to reach FI will be shorter than if you are starting from zero. Saving at a high rate is important to reach FI in the shortest time possible; saving at a lower rate or not saving anything makes reaching FI impossible.
Financial Independence is reached by saving a certain amount each year.
This number can vary depending on your unique circumstances, such as income and expenses.
There are a variety of reasons people are pursuing FI – more than likely it is because I hate my job or you want to spend your time doing something else.
The FI Number formula is just a starting point: remember that there are many other variables that could impact your individual savings plans, such as debt load, income, and monthly spending habits.
While using this formula can provide helpful insight into when you might achieve financial independence, it’s important to remember that there is no one-size-fits-all answer.
Every person’s situation is different, so it’s important to tailor your savings plan to your own needs and goals.
Know someone else that needs this, too? Then, please share!!
Are you interested in early retirement? Today, I have a great interview with Kristy Shen, who retired with $1,000,000 at the age of 31.
You probably know Kristy from the blog Millennial Revolution. Millennial Revolution is a popular early retirement resource, so I’m excited to share this interview with you on how she reached early retirement.
In this interview, you’ll learn:
How they calculated how much money to save
What made them want to retire early
Whether they live comfortably or not
How much time they spend traveling
The careers they had before early retirement
The sacrifices they had to make
And more!
This interview is packed full of valuable information on reaching early retirement.
Enjoy!
Related content:
1. Tell me your story. Who are you and what do you do? Can you go into detail on how much you saved for early retirement, how you chose that amount, etc.?
We are Kristy and Bryce, and we are world-travelling early retirees, having left the rat race in our early 30s back in 2015.
We were both working as computer engineers, but after almost a decade of trying to follow the “traditional career path” of buying a house and working until we’re 65 to pay it off, we realized that those old rules didn’t really work for our generation and we tried something different.
So we saved and invested our money instead, and when our portfolio hit $1,000,000, we retired and never looked back.
2. Can you explain how early retirement works? What is the 4% rule?
The 4% rule states that if you retire and start withdrawing your 4% of your portfolio, each year adjusting for inflation, you will statistically never run out of money.
It was based on something called the Trinity study that looked at historical stock market data and tried to figure out the safe amount to withdraw in retirement that won’t deplete your savings. 4% is the answer they come up with, and we used that as a target for how much we needed to have in order to retire early.
We knew that our annual spending was $40,000, so that means our Financial Independence target was $1,000,000, because $1,000,000 x 4% = $40,000.
3. When did you begin saving for early retirement?
We were saving the moment we started to work, but it wasn’t initially for early retirement.
As I mentioned before, we spent the first half of our careers trying to save up to buy a house, but because we live in a high cost-of-living city (Toronto), real estate just kept getting more and more expensive even as we tried to save up for a down payment.
Eventually, we got sick of playing what we thought was a rigged game and started looking for something else to do with our money.
When we stumbled across the FIRE movement, that was our “aha” moment, because we realized that at our current trajectory we could either spend our money on a house and then spend decades trying to pay it off, or hit our FI target and retire in just 3 years.
It was a no brainer.
4. What made you want to retire early?
Besides the frustration of the real estate market, something happened at my work that really crystallized my decision to retire.
Out of the blue, one of my co-workers collapsed and nearly died at his desk. The ambulance had to be called and he needed to be rushed to the ER. He had been working 12 hour days continuously for months, and the doctors told him that his health was so bad that it was equivalent to him smoking 2 packs of cigarettes a day, despite the fact that he’d never smoked.
And the most eye-opening thing about that whole experience was that rather than making any changes to his lifestyle, he was back at work just 2 weeks later because he couldn’t afford to stop working and paying his mortgage.
That’s when I realized how messed up my priorities were.
5. Would you say that you live comfortably?
Absolutely.
FIRE isn’t about sacrificing your happiness for money. If it were, it wouldn’t be sustainable. Instead, it’s more about being strategic and making conscious decisions in how you spend. For example, when we were working, we would still spend money taking 2 vacations a year because travel was (and still is) important to us.
On the other hand, owning a car wasn’t important, so we relied on public transportation instead. Now that we’re retired, we travel the world teaching other people how to pull off FIRE themselves.
We also discovered that travelling the world is less expensive than living in a North American major metropolitan city.
6. How much do you spend traveling each year? What do you spend your money on these days?
Before the pandemic, we basically lived nomadically and hopped from country to country every month, so for us travel is not so much an expense as it is just part of how we live. Since we left, we were surprised to find that travelling isn’t nearly as expensive as when we were working.
By using AirBnbs and HomeExchanges to live like a local and spending time in lower cost-of-living areas like Southeast Asia and Eastern Europe, we were able to make living nomadically cost less than living in a high cost-of-living city all year, which is about $40,000 a year for the two of us for the 6 years since retiring. Once the pandemic happened, we had to come back to Toronto for a family emergency.
We thought our living expenses would skyrocket (especially given the rise in inflation) but surprisingly, our expenses plummeted in the last 2 years to $34,000 (2020) and $39,000 (2021) due to lockdowns. This year we’re projected to spend $42,000.
We love spending money on travel, eating out, massages, and walking tours.
7. What career did you have before you retired? Do you think you have to have a high income in order to retire early?
We’re both computer engineers. I worked in finance and Bryce worked in a semiconductor company.
Having a high income definitely helps, but it’s still possible even if you don’t make that high a salary, and we’ve featured readers on our blog that are on their way to achieving financial independence as teachers, nurses, plumbers, and all sorts of other professions.
One reader even went from homeless and unemployed to $100K net worth in just 1 year by following our strategy.
With the recent popularity of remote work, more options are opening up for people to super-charge their savings by moving to a lower-cost city and baking the difference, so if anything early retirement is becoming more accessible to more people as time goes on.
8. Do you still earn an income in early retirement?
I’ve always wanted to be a writer since I was a kid, but I had to put my dreams on hold to pursue a practical career that makes money, but once we left we could focus on actually making my dream a reality.
So we created our blog Millennial-Revolution.com, and we wrote a book Quit Like a Millionaire. To our complete surprise, both projects now make money, but we continue relying on our initial $1M portfolio to fund our day-to-day living expenses and treat any extra income we earn in retirement as fun money.
9. What sacrifices or hard decisions did you have to make to reach early retirement?
It was really hard bucking what I like to call the “cult of home ownership,” not just because we lived in Toronto where everyone is obsessed with owning real estate, but also because I’m Chinese, where owning a home is such an important part of my culture that it’s considered unthinkable not to buy a house.
I fought with my parents about that so much that we basically stopped talking for the first year of my retirement.
Our relationship has improved since then, but it was really difficult for me at the time to basically be the only one doing this in my group of friends and family, but now that I did it, I now know it was the best decision I’ve ever made.
10. What do you do for health insurance in early retirement?
When you travel, medical care is not nearly as expensive as back home, so a monthly travel insurance policy really isn’t that expensive.
For example, we’re currently using a company called Safetywing and insurance costs $42 USD a month.
If you have to live in the US, you would be eligible for federal government subsidies to pay for your insurance from the Affordable Care Act (ACA) since your earned income would drop to $0 after retirement.
11. What are your long-term plans now that you are retired?
More writing, travelling and teaching people about FIRE.
We also have the time and space to help out with family members whenever health issues come up.
12. If you were starting back at ground zero, what would you do differently?
I wouldn’t have wasted so much time chasing after a house like everyone else, but all things considered I think we actually avoided many of the mistakes that trip a lot of people up, like getting into a ton of student debt or picking the wrong career, so I can’t complain too much.
I would say, we probably should’ve started investing earlier and not sat on the sidelines after 2008, trying to save up money to buy a house.
This made us miss out on years of investment gains.
13. Lastly, what is your very best tip (or two) that you have for someone who wants to reach the same success as you?
If you want to retire early, surround yourself with people who are also on a similar life path because those people will sustain you on your journey.
When I was doing this, the FIRE community wasn’t as big (or well organized) as it is today. Now, there are FIRE meetups all over the world, so find your local group and introduce yourself. It’s also a good idea to start learning how to invest as soon as possible.
You can learn via our free, step-by-step investment workshop and our book Quit Like a Millionaire.
Are you interested in early retirement? Why or why not?
One day you’ll likely want to close the book on your career and start a new chapter of your life, but do you know how to plan for retirement?
The majority of working Americans say they are behind on their retirement savings goals, according to a Bankrate survey. If you don’t know how to plan for retirement, you could find yourself in the same position.
A financially secure retirement might feel like a lofty goal, but it’s totally within reach if you educate yourself on a few fundamental retirement savings concepts.
It’s time to take the first step toward confident retirement planning. Ryan Inman, a financial planner for physicians at Financial Residency, and Andy Wang, managing partner at Runnymede Capital Management, are here to help. Below, they share the concepts that you need to master if you’re wondering how to learn about retirement planning.
But first: Test your knowledge with our retirement quiz. When you’re done, the experts’ guidance on how to plan for retirement can help you fill in any gaps to ace the quiz—and your retirement.
Retirement quiz: What do you know about retirement?
Harnessing the power of compound interest
Compound interest has been called the eighth wonder of the world. Its surprising ability to grow wealth can feel like a miracle, but it’s actually just good old-fashioned math.
“Compounding is the key to most great investors’ success,” Wang says. That’s because as you earn interest on your money, your money grows. He points out that over time, you earn interest not just on your initial deposit but also on the interest that accumulates.
This same principle applies to stock investing where constant reinvestment of capital gains produces a compounding effect so you earn gains on your gains, he adds.
Because the interest you earn is based on an ever-growing amount of money, your rate of wealth accumulation accelerates as the years go by.
How compound interest works: An example
An example can help when you’re learning about retirement planning, especially when math is involved.
Let’s say you put $10,000 into a diversified 60/40 mix of equities and fixed income that has an average annual return of 6% within your IRA. This is how compound interest would fuel your money’s growth over the years:
Year 1: You would make 6% on the $10,000, which is $600.
Year 2: You would make 6% on your money again, but this time it would be on a balance of $10,600. As a result, you’d add $636 to your account.
Year 3: You would make 6% on $11,236, or $674.16.
Year 10: You would have $17,908.48 in your account thanks to the power of compounding.
You can play with the numbers in a compound interest calculator to see the phenomenon yourself.
Compound interest is fundamental to how you plan for retirement because it yields bigger results over longer periods of time—and saving for retirement is all about the long term.
“The longer your money is invested, the more compound interest grows,” Inman says.
As a result, he says one of the biggest retirement savings mistakes you can make is to put off saving for retirement—because it prevents you from harnessing the impressive power of compound interest.
Understanding your tax-advantaged retirement options
When saving for retirement, Inman and Wang recommend that you make use of any available tax-advantaged accounts (in other words, accounts that save you money on taxes).
Some savers have access to a 401(k) or other employer-sponsored retirement accounts through their jobs. Every American who earns income can contribute to an individual retirement account, or IRA.
Let’s take a closer look at each of these tax-advantaged retirement options to help you understand how to plan for retirement.
The 401(k) retirement plan
The most common employer-sponsored plan is the 401(k), which allows employees to put a certain amount of each paycheck toward retirement. “The 401(k) is one of the best options you have to save for retirement,” Wang says.
One of the reasons it’s such a great option, he says, is that contributing to a 401(k) can ease your tax bill each year.
“The money you contribute doesn’t count toward your gross income for the year, and that lowers your taxable income as a result,” he explains. “For example, let’s say you make $25,000 per year and you contribute $2,000 into your 401(k). As far as the IRS is concerned, you made $23,000 and you’ll be taxed on the $23,000.”
In addition to lowering your tax bill, your 401(k) is growing your retirement savings thanks to the power of compound interest.
401(k) match
Sometimes, employers will also offer what’s known as a 401(k) match, which means they’ll match whatever you contribute to your retirement savings up to a certain amount.
For example, Inman says that if your employer offers a 3% match and you’re contributing at least 3% of your salary to your 401(k), then your employer will contribute an additional amount equal to 3% of your salary.
If your employer offers a 401(k) match and you’re not enrolled, “You’re not only missing out on the tax benefits of a 401(k), but you’re leaving free money on the table,” Inman says.
Vesting periods
How to learn about retirement planning means understanding your vesting period. Inman notes that some companies have vesting periods, which means you won’t receive the full 401(k) match until you satisfy a particular length of employment.
Maximum contributions
The maximum contribution is the total amount you’re allowed to contribute to your 401(k) each year. This limit can change year to year according to the latest tax laws. In the 2023 tax year, for example, you can contribute a maximum of $22,500 to your 401(k) account, the IRS says. If you’re over 50, you can take advantage of catch-up contributions—up to an additional $7,500 per year.
The individual retirement account (IRA)
Another popular retirement account is the IRA. According to Inman, there are two main types of IRAs, each with a different tax advantage.
Traditional IRA
Generally speaking, Inman says, a Traditional IRA allows you to deduct your contributions from your taxes now, but you’ll need to pay taxes on the money you withdraw in retirement. You can withdraw your contributions and earnings without IRS penalty at age 59½.
Roth IRA
The other type of IRA is the Roth IRA. Inman notes that contributions to a Roth IRA can’t be deducted from your taxes now, but when you withdraw your earnings in retirement (at age 59½ or later, to avoid a penalty), you do so tax-free. Because you pay taxes on your contributions, you can withdraw those from your Roth IRA anytime.
“Some earners’ income is too high to qualify for a Roth IRA,” Inman says. (In 2023, the income limit is $153,000 for individuals and $228,000 for married couples filing jointly, according to the IRS.)
Unsure of which type of IRA to choose? Dive into all the differences between a Roth IRA and a Traditional IRA. Check the latest IRS guidance on income and contribution limits before selecting the best option for you.
Automating your retirement savings
If you find yourself thinking about how to plan for retirement but not actually doing the regular saving that you need to, then automating your retirement savings might be for you.
Inman and Wang note that most 401(k) plans have automation features: Once you opt in and configure your preferences, your plan will deduct a certain dollar amount or percentage out of every paycheck and invest it in the funds you pre-selected.
There are even mobile apps that have emerged to make it easier for people to automate their retirement savings than ever before. They allow savers to set up automatic deposits from their checking or savings accounts into a retirement savings fund according to their risk tolerance and goals.
“Technology’s come a long way in helping us automate our retirement savings,” Inman says.
When considering how to plan for retirement, automating your retirement savings has two key benefits:
1. Automation removes emotion from investing
The fact is, it’s not always a pleasant experience to move money from your checking account into your retirement savings. Wang notes that when you’re automating your savings, “you won’t even miss that money, but it can grow to a significant amount over time.”
Because of this out-of-sight-out-of-mind phenomenon, Inman suggests increasing your 401(k) contribution amounts whenever you get a raise at work.
2. Automation helps you take advantage of dollar-cost averaging
You might have noticed that the stock market can be up one day and down the next. These unpredictable swings pose the risk that you could “buy high” right before the prices swing lower.
Inman points out that when you’re automating your savings, you’re investing the same amount of money at regular intervals. So if the market is up, your retirement savings go up, but you’re buying at higher prices. If the market goes down, your savings go down, but you’re also buying at lower prices.
Over time, your costs average out, and this is what is known as dollar-cost averaging. “Automation is allowing us to dollar-cost average without us even knowing that we’re doing it,” Inman says.
Estimating how much money you’ll need in retirement
You could use every savvy retirement strategy in the book, but how do you know how much you should save before you can retire?
“Conventional wisdom says that you should expect to need 70% to 90% of your annual pre-retirement income in retirement,” Wang says. For example, he says that a person who earns an average of $100,000 per year before retirement should expect to need $70,000 to $90,000 per year in retirement.
The 4% rule
Another frequently used rule of thumb when learning about retirement planning is known as the 4% rule, Wang says. The idea is that if you can withdraw no more than 4% each year from your savings in retirement (adjusting for inflation and taxes along the way), then “you should have a very high probability of not outliving your money during a 30-year retirement,” he says.
If our eventual retiree will need to withdraw $80,000 a year, that annual pre-tax income needs to represent no more than 4% of their retirement savings. Because 4% is the same as 1/25, they would need to multiply $80,000 by 25 to arrive at a target retirement savings goal of $2,000,000.
Put your knowledge to work toward your retirement
By taking this retirement quiz and studying new retirement concepts, you’ve taken the first steps toward how to learn about retirement planning.
Now, it’s time to make the moves that your future self will thank you for. See how Discover can empower you to confidently follow your retirement plan.
Articles may contain information from third-parties. The inclusion of such information does not imply an affiliation with the bank or bank sponsorship, endorsement, or verification regarding the third-party or information.
*The article and information provided herein are for informational purposes only and are not intended as a substitute for professional advice. Please consult your tax advisor with respect to information contained in this article and how it relates to you.
Save more, spend smarter, and make your money go further
Are you tired of having credit card bills? Do you wish you could get out of debt once and for all?
If you want get out of debt permanently, first consider this: Debt is not a financial problem. Hard to believe, but true.
Debt is actually a personal problem that masquerades in financial clothing. That is why so many people have persistent problems with debt. They look outward for financial solutions, when the true solution is found by looking inward.
Planning a Permanent Debt Solution
Defining your debt problem correctly is critical to solving it.
That is where most debtors run into trouble. They mistakenly define debt as a financial problem and develop financial solutions. That is why their debt returns shortly after paying it off. They fail to identify the root cause of debt, opening the door to repeating the vicious cycle.
For a debt solution to be effective your plan of attack needs to be based on principles that actually work. Unfortunately, when you just pay off your balances you relieve the pain, but the underlying condition that put you in debt in the first place still lurks under the surface, ready to return.
Let’s face it, the real causes of overspending are your personal habits and attitudes. In other words, the true solution is personal — not financial. That is a key, and understanding this principle is what will make or break your success in slaying the debt monster for good.
Masking The Problem
When you get a headache what is the logical response? You reach to the medicine cabinet for immediate pain relief. Unfortunately, the various pills do nothing to cure the underlying disease: they merely treat the symptom. The cause could be excessive stress, brain cancer, dehydration, eye strain, or any number of other issues. By taking a pill you’ve treated the symptom — not the underlying cause.
The same is true with debt. Everyone knows they need to make more and spend less to solve their debt problems. So they pursue financially driven solutions to relieve financial symptoms. It seems logical on the surface.
Whether you choose to consolidate your credit card debt to lower interest rates or you choose any of the quick-payoff strategies (inheritance, gift, sell an asset, bankruptcy, home equity line of credit, or refinancing), the reality is you are treating the symptom and not creating a lasting cure.
Your financial problems are merely the accumulated reflection of the many small financial mistakes you are making on a daily basis — often without knowing any better. That’s why teaching a debtor to spend less and earn more is like telling someone to lose weight by eating less and exercising more. Everyone already knows that is the answer. The difficult part is not knowing what to do, but actually getting it done. The solution lies in your daily habits and attitudes.
[Related Article: 3 People Who Dug Out of Deep Debt]
Money Breakthroughs
I first discovered this approach to debt recovery in my work as a money coach. I started out making the same mistakes as everyone else. I thought debt problems were financial, so I coached my clients to financial solutions. The lackluster results proved it was the wrong approach.
The breakthrough came when I noticed my wealthy clients had mirror opposite attitudes and behaviors compared to my get-out-of-debt clients. For example:
My wealthy clients viewed their financial situation from a position of self-responsibility, whereas my debt clients were victims of their finances.
My wealthy clients planned their finances, but my debt clients had no plan.
My wealthy clients organized their plans around delayed gratification, whereas my debt clients pursued instant gratification.
My wealthy clients associated their self-worth with intrinsic values, while my debt clients associated self-worth with extrinsic stuff.
These are just 4 examples from a long list of opposing traits. They are guidelines or tendencies that generally hold true. While there may be personal variation, on the whole the patterns were unmistakable. These mirror opposite attitudes produced mirror opposite financial results in life.
[Related Article: 7 Ways to Avoid a Debt Relapse]
Amazingly,when I applied these principles, coaching habitudes instead of specific financial actions, the debt problems solved themselves over time.
This is obvious when you think about it. Your daily financial decisions result from your habits and attitudes that drive those decisions. For example, consider the following choices and their obvious financial implications:
Do you buy fancy coffees throughout the day or do you make a pot of your favorite coffee in the morning and bring it with you?
Do you lease a new car every few years or maintain your reliable used car?
Do you dine out frequently or cook healthy meals at home?
Are you a minimalist or do you desire the latest designer fashions?
Do you shop to get what you need or do you shop for pleasure and recreation?
When you focus on financial solutions, you treat the symptom instead of the cause. When you focus on your attitudes and habits, you focus on the cause, and the symptom takes care of itself automatically without any self-discipline.
Let me be clear — this isn’t a quick fix. The results you produce from this approach will occur gradually over time. Just as it took time to accumulate the debt, it takes time to unwind it when you work with root causes.
However, the solutions are as permanent as the new attitudes and habits you adopt — and that makes all the difference.
The truth is the financial results of your life aren’t dependent upon how much money you make. Instead, they depend on how well you manage the money you already have. This article series will show you the easiest way to adopt wealthy habits and attitudes and be smarter with your money so that you can get out of debt — permanently.
[Related Article: 5 Ways to Get Out of Debt: Which Will Work for You?]
Todd Tresidder is a financial coach and consumer advocate. His unconventional take on worn financial topics has appeared in the Wall Street Journal, Investor’s Business Daily, Smart Money magazine, Yahoo Finance, and more. He’s authored 5 financial education books including How Much Money Do I Need To Retire?, Variable Annuity Pros and Cons, and the 4% Rule and Safe Withdrawal Rates In Retirement.
Save more, spend smarter, and make your money go further
Previous Post
4 Questions to Ask Yourself Before Investing in Home Improvements
Next Post
From Stoked to Broke: Why Are So Many Professional Athletes…
Browse Related Articles
Financial Planning
In Debt…Again? How to Break the Borrowing Cycle
Credit Info
Top 5 Mistakes Consumer Make While Managing Debt
Financial Planning
The Secret to Getting Out of Debt
How the Euro Debt Crisis May Impact You
European Spotlight: The Potential Consequences (Part 3)
Credit Info
The Worst Kind of Debt to Carry Is…
Financial Planning
Which Debt Should I Pay Off First?
How to Decide if You Should Pay Off Your Debt Or Invest
Personal Finance
Expert Interview with Dominique Brown on Personal Finan…
As I type this, I’m jumping through the various hoops involved in buying a 2023 Tesla Model Y, a spectacularly expensive, large luxury “crossover” that is absolutely loaded to the gills with excess: all wheel drive, faster acceleration than a Lamborghini, enough space for seven people and enough computer gadgetry to function as a small Google data center.
The total net cost of this thing to me after all the taxes and tax credits* will be about $52,000, which is just a stunning amount higher than the Honda van it is replacing. That old classic cost me $4500 when I bought it off of Craigslist twelve years ago, and it had served me dutifully until just last month, crisscrossing the mountains and deserts of this country and also helping to rebuild a considerable swath of houses in my neighborhood.
I’m supposed to be a frugality-oriented financial blogger, and I’m also known for hating car culture – I think most people use cars about ten times more often than they need to, and most people drive cars they can’t afford. So why the hell am I buying a new one?
From those first three paragraphs, you can see I’m feeling plenty of self-mockery and ridicule over this new purchase. If you’re also a naturally frugal person, you can surely relate to the thoughts and you probably also agree with me that I’m off my rocker.
And indeed, I’m still on-board with frugality and healthy self mockery. After all, it was this overall life philosophy that earned me an early retirement 18 years ago, which provides all of the glorious freedom I enjoy now.
It was also the philosophy that allowed me to procrastinate on buying this expensive car for the last four years, even as countless people both close to me and out on the Internet egged me on and told me I should just loosen up and treat myself.
But there’s a classic slogan that applies to many areas of life, and it is something I like to dig up and ponder every now and then:
“What got you here,
Won’t get you where you’re going.”
How does that piece of wisdom apply to frugal living and enjoying a long life of early retirement?
A quick story from a recent run to the grocery store will explain:
I was standing there in the bakery aisle, hoping to restock with a loaf of Dave’s Killer Bread for the next day’s breakfast with some visiting friends. But since this was in a standard grocery store rather than the Costco where I usually shop, the damned stuff was priced at an eye-watering $6.99 per loaf (instead the $4.50 or so I’m accustomed to paying, and even at the bulk store this stuff is about double the price of normal bread).
“DAMN YOU KING SOOPER’S!”
Was my first response.
“WHO THE HELL DO YOU THINK YOU ARE, TRYING TO SELL BREAD FOR SEVEN BUCKS!!!”
Then I went through a whole mental battle of what I call Grocery Shopping With Your Middle Finger:
“Should I just boycott this bullshit?”
“Hmm I wonder if any of the other competing brands are any good?”
“What else is a good substitute for bread for this breakfast?”
And then thankfully, after exhausting all other mental options, I settled on the correct one:
“JUST BUY THE BREAD YOU DUMBASS!”
“Because you are never going to wake up in the future and look at your bank account and think, shit, if only I had an extra $2.49 in there I would be a happier person.”
That night, I came home from the store and shared this funny tale with one of my guests. He understood perfectly because he too had earned his own retirement through a lifetime of grinding in tough jobs and disciplined frugality. And despite the fact that he has a net worth several times higher than mine, he admitted that he faces exactly the same mental battles over splurging on himself.
This same friend gives freely to charitable causes, has supported a local school for decades, and is always the first one to pull out the checkbook if a friend has hit hard times or is looking for a trusted business investor.
But he still has trouble bringing himself to take an Uber to the airport instead of riding the bus which takes an hour longer.
We both realized that we were being too cheap with ourselves, and we needed to work on it. And we came up with a set of three ideas that should hopefully work together to help us have more fun with our life savings, while we are still alive:
the Minimum Spending Budget,
the Dedicated Money Wasting Account,
and the Splurge Accountability Buddy.
Principle #1: The Minimum Spending Budget:
Suppose you’ve done well over the years and amassed a pile of productive investments worth about two million dollars. Yes, this is a lot of money for most people, and that is the point: this hypothetical person truly has it made.
But as it turns out, most Mustachians I know with this level of wealth are still living very efficient lives, usually with a spending level of under $40,000 per year. On top of that, they typically live in a mortgage-free house and still have various forms of side income from a small business or two.
The 4% rule tells us that this person should be fairly safe spending up to about $80,000 per year from that cozy nest egg, even if they never earn any other money.
If this person wanted to be ridiculously conservative and set the spending rate at 3%, that still leaves about $60,000 of fun money every single year.. Plus, again, any side income, future inheritances, and social security income only add to the surplus.
Thus, a reasonable minimum spending level for this person might be $60,000 per year.
And in most cases, they know this, but still go right on living on $40k or less and claim they have everything they could ever want.
But if you watch carefully you’ll still catch them firing up the middle finger at things like $6.99 Dave’s bread or the $14.00 Cabernet at the restaurant or driving around in a gas guzzler even when they would prefer to have a proper, modern electric car.
And whenever these people do get extra money, their first instinct is to stash it away on top of the already-too-big pile. In diagram form, their money flow looks like this:
Note that while this person is great at accumulating money through that big red arrow firing money back into the ‘stash, their “fun stuff” arrow appears quite flaccid and withered.
Which is a perfect segue to ….
Principle #2 – the Dedicated Money Wasting Account
Lifelong habits are hard to break, and it’s sometimes hard to “waste” your own hard-earned money on things that seem frivolous, even when you know intellectually that you have way more money than you’ll ever spend.
But have you ever noticed that if you are spending somebody else’s money, preferably an anonymous corporation, it feels different?
For example, when you’re on a business trip and you just show up at the dining table to eat and drink and you never see the bill, you probably don’t fret about the prices, right?
The key is to make your own money feel like somebody else’s, and you can do it like this:
Re-brand your main bank account – henceforth it is the FREE FUN MONEY account.
Set up an auto-deposit of your minimum spending budget that drops in each month (if you suspect that you might currently be too frugal, make this at least $1000 per month higher than your current spending level)
The only way you are allowed to use the money in this new account is to spend it on anything and everything, or give it away. It can be used for both necessities like groceries and your utility bill, but also your luxuries like travel and dining and generosity.
But the key rule is this: You are not allowed to follow your old habit of sweeping out the surplus each month to buy more and more index funds as you’ve been doing your whole life.
If the free fun money starts building up, which it probably will because you are way out of spending practice, it will stare you in the face and tell you to do a better job.
And this can and should be FUN! Now you can get the best organic groceries even when the price seems exorbitant. Go out for dinner or order delivery whenever you like. Surprise your loved ones with concert tickets, join your friends on snowboarding or beach trips, or even pay for an entire group vacation, allowing people to go who couldn’t normally afford it so easily.
Technical Note: Some people have income or wealth levels are so high that it would be insane to spend at a 3% rate. For example, a $10M fortune would lead to a $25,000 monthly spending rate, which is obviously ridiculous.
In this situation, you can still leave your dividends reinvesting but still give yourself a bigger, no-saving-allowed budget to get some practice being more relaxed and generous. The real point here is to just stop sweating the details so you can have more fun.
Principle #3 – The Splurge Accountability Buddy
Many of us frugal people tend to stick together. And most of us have different versions of the same problem: we know logically that money is plentiful these days, but our emotions keep us stuck in our old ways of optimizing too much.
But I find that when I team up with local friends who are actually trying to battle these same habits, we can question each other’s decisions, call out cheapness when we see it, and cheer on splurges when we know the other guy would enjoy it.
My super wealthy friend from above has become much better about treating himself (and his family) to quality goods for the home, amazing trips together, and just a general reduction in his stress over being “efficient with money”
My friend and HQ co-owner Carl (Mr. 1500 Days) has finally replaced his beaten-down minivan with a spiffy new Chevrolet Bolt electric car, and is loving that leap into the future.
And of course Mr. Money Mustache, after squeezing one final mountain road trip out of his 23-year-old Honda van, is finally allowing himself to get the Tesla he has been talking about for half a decade.
A recent life change (becoming a co-owner of a fixer-upper vacation rental compound in beautiful Salida Colorado) has reignited the travel fire in my heart and made me realize how much I do love getting out to distant places for visiting, mountain biking, gathering with groups of friends and my favorite activity of all: Carpentourism.
Running the Numbers: how ridiculously expensive is this car?
This is the perfect start to my experiment in spending more. Realistically, a $50,000 car is going to cost me about $10,000 more per year than my old van was burning. With the biggest costs being these:
Foregoing roughly 8% annual investment returns on the 50 grand: $4000
Depreciation on the car: an average of $3000 per year over the first 10 years
Higher insurance premiums: $1000 more per year
Replacing those exorbitantly huge performance tires when they wear out, and probably things like repairing the all-glass roof someday when it meets Colorado’s pebble-strewn mountain roads: the remaining $2000 or so.
Since I personally had a spending deficit of several times more than $10k per year, I figure this is a solid first step. And, since the car’s primary purpose is things like epic camping trips, dream dates, and long adventures around the country, it will definitely help me spend more on experiences, hotels, and go out to dinner a bit more often as well.
“This Privileged Rich Folk Talk is Making Me Sick, why don’t you give your money away to charity, or to me?”
In general, I agree: the world has problems and the richer you are, the more you should consider giving generously.
But also, to be honest, the whiny people who constantly send complaints like this out to strangers on the Internet really need to get a life. It’s great to encourage philanthropy through positive examples, but completely unproductive to send negativity to shame people you don’t even know for not following your own personal value system. The world has seen more than enough of this.
On top of that, this one-sided thinking can be counterproductive. Both of my friends have given generously throughout their lifetimes. In my own case, I have donated over $500,000 to the best causes I could find during the years I’ve been writing this blog, but I was still refusing to let myself replace that 23-year-old van.
And that overthinking was leading to even more of a scarcity mentality, as I compared my own meager spending to these bigger numbers of my donations, and found myself thinking things like,
“Damn, I’m spending $100 on this dinner date which sounds like a lot, but I also spent ONE THOUSAND TIMES more on donations last year, which sounds like even more. Maybe I am spending too much and need to cut back on EVERYTHING!”
And then the fear side of my brain would illogically chime in: “Yeah and you’re going to make us run out of money and be poor forever! waaaah waaaah! Cut back and optimize and conserve!”
I think there is a happy medium here.
Yes – be a super, duper responsible steward of your life savings.
And yes, give generously with all your heart to charity.
But yes, it’s also okay to set aside a portion of the money you’ve earned, for frivolous spending on yourself and those closest to you. You’re not a bad person for having a few nice things.
It’s okay to pay that extra hundred bucks to sit in the front of the airplane instead of the back if it helps you enjoy your vacation and spend a joyful half hour walking FREE at your destination while the 49 rows of people behind you fuss infuriatingly with their shit in the overhead bins.
It’s okay to buy the frozen berries at Whole Foods even though they cost eight times more than Costco charges, if it spares you from making a second unpleasant trip through parking lot hell.
And as for me, I am calling it okay to, at last, double flip the Autopilot stalk in my new Tesla and lean back as it it shoots me gracefully through even the highest mountain passes, forever leaving the desperately underpowered wheezing and gear shifting and noise* of the gasoline era behind, forever.
Rest in Peace, Vanna – 1999-2023
* A useful tip for more effective splurging:
Try to find the truly negative aspects of your life and focus any additional spending on improving those things. But it’s a subtle art so you have to get it right if you want lasting results in happiness.
You don’t want to just reduce hardship or challenge like hiring someone to take care of every aspect of your house, because overcoming daily hardships and having significant accomplishments provides the very core of our life satisfaction.
You also don’t want to just upgrade the things that are already good in your life. For example, a friend of mine is a gourmet coffee expert, and he suggested that I upgrade my setup at home to include on-the-spot roasting, and fancy grinding and brewing equipment. But I already love the good quality coffee I buy off the shelf from Costco, so it would be counterproductive to invest time or money into changing this part of my life.
But when you have something that causes you regular angst and stress, whether it’s a leaky roof that makes you dread rain, or a long commute that makes you dread the daily traffic jam, or a body that is giving you trouble due to not being in the best of shape – those types of things are probably a good target for improvement.
In the case of my car situation, I had a Nissan Leaf which is wonderful to drive, but doesn’t have the range to travel anywhere outside of the Denver metro area. Then I had the van which is a clunky beast to drive, but is otherwise an amazing road tripper because I could bring along whatever and whoever I wanted. But the van was getting increasingly unreliable in several hard-to-fix ways which was making me nervous every time I thought about long distance travel. Which was causing me to avoid certain trips and miss positive lifetime experiences.
In other words, my lack of a reliable long-range car was a small but consistent source of negative stress.
Finally, Vanna gave me the gift of a final hot and smelly transmission failure on a mountain pass on the way home from my new project in Salida. It was just the nudge that I needed. And now I already feel excitement rather than dread at the prospect of all the road trips in the coming decades!
* Total cost of this Tesla:
Model Y plus options and Tesla fees: $53,630
Subtract $7500 federal EV tax credit
Subtract $2000 Colorado EV tax credit
(Note: this is equivalent to a $44,150 list price if you are cross shopping with other cars)
Add back in $4674 of sales tax
Add in first 3 years of Colorado new-car registration fees: $3000
Net cost: about $52,000
New Tracker Page!
To go along with this article, I started a new page called “The Model Y Experiment” where I can share ongoing findings and Q&A about the ownership experience. I’ve driven and rented Teslas quite a bit in the past, so most of it will be pretty familiar. But as an owner I’ll get to verify the reliability and the quality of customer service, as well as any quirks and modifications and upgrades I do.
An Introduction from MMM: We get a lot of case study requests around here these days. I’d love to answer all of the questions and write articles about a good chunk of them. But even a retired man has his free time limits, which is why I am glad to have Jacob on my side […]